CHAPTER V

MORE OF CENTRAL JAVA

Le bon sens nous dit que les choses de la terre n’existent que

bien peu et que la vraie réalité est dans les rêves. CHARLES

BAUDELAIRE, _Les Paradis Artificiels (Dédication)_.

Except during a period of some four centuries and a half, from about 940

till the palmy days of Mojopahit, when declining Hindu civilisation, for

reasons as yet unexplained, sought a refuge farther east, Central Java

and especially that part of it known in our time as the Principalities,

_i.e._ Surakarta and Jogjakarta, has always been the heart of the

island. There lived and live the true Javanese, the people of heaven’s

mercy, cherishing their old traditions; these and the beautiful scenery

of their fire-mountains and fertile valleys are still theirs, whatever

else may fail: glory, power and freedom. They lived and live in their

world of custom and formality a life unintelligible in its inner

workings to the western brain, impenetrable to the western eye. There

are forces hidden in the Javanese mind, the resultant of a strangely

moved past, which we can never understand, though we may admire their

creative energy, revealed in the now conventional designs guiding the

hand of the potter, the wood-carver, the goldsmith, the armourer, the

_batikker_,[49] hereditary practisers of dying arts and crafts; in the

remains of a marvellous architecture long since altogether dead. No

chapter in the whole history of eastern art, says Fergusson, is so full

of apparent anomalies or upsets so completely our preconceived ideas of

things as they ought to be, as that which treats of the architectural

history of the island of Java ...; the one country to which they (the

Hindus) overflowed, was Java, and there they colonised to such an

extent as for nearly a thousand years to obliterate the native arts

and civilisation and supplant it by their own ...; what is still more

singular is, that it was not from the nearest shores of India that

these emigrants departed but from the western coast.... A _linga_,

erected in the Kadu in the year 654 Saka (A.D. 732), a Sivaïte symbol

of generation, marks the origin of an artistic activity whose most

brilliant period, the classical one of central Javanese architecture,

as G. P. Rouffaer styles it rightly, begins with the construction of

such buildings as the Buddhist _chandi_ Kalasan or Kali Bening. The

inscription of King Sanjaya in Venggi characters, and vestiges of

Vaishnav tendencies in the Suku and Cheto temples of a much later date,

point to the worship of Vishnu, while Brahma’s four sublime conditions

and more subtle transcendentalism do not seem to have attracted the

Javanese converts to Hinduïsm. They could grasp the unity of Siva’s

threefold functions much better and accepted him as Mahadeva at the

head of the Trimoorti. The advent of Buddhism in its _mahayanistic_

form, the creed of the northern church so called, served to emphasise

native tolerance. Sivaïsm and whatever there was of Vishnuïsm,

harmonised with Buddhism to the extent of borrowing and lending symbols,

emblems and divine attributes; Hindu gods played puss in the corner

with Bodhisatvas, as already remarked upon in the preceding chapter;

the _chandi_ Chupuwatu surprises us with a _stupa-linga_;[50] a

Javanese prince of the thirteenth century bears the expressive name of

Siva-Buddha; the old Javanese _Sang Hiang Kamahayanikan_ contains the

dictum: Siva is identical with Buddha.[51] If more inscriptions had been

found, more light might have been thrown on the anomalous ornamentation

of, for instance, the Prambanan temples and the Mendoot; but Sivaïte

records of the kind leaving the matter unexplained, Buddhist information

is still scantier, perhaps a consequence of Baghavat’s followers not

excelling in epigraphy or literary labours of any description.

If the backwash of great political events or religious discussion when

the Islām superseded older creeds, may have aided Kala, the Destroyer,

in demolishing a good many buildings of the classical period, whose

sites even are sought in vain, it is certain that the pioneers of

western civilisation, proud of their superiority, willfully and wantonly

undid in many places work that had been spared by time and earthquakes

and volcanic eruptions and enemies born of the soil, devastating with

fire and sword their brethren’s hearths and houses. Christian zealots

regarded the ancient monuments as assembly-rooms of the Devil where the

benighted heathen used to foregather in idolatry, lodges of abomination

the sooner razed the better, a pious feeling often translated into

action on grounds of utility: the stones offered excellent building

material. Officials and _particulieren_[52] of broader views, besides

acknowledging the serviceableness of _chandis_ in this respect, went

_recho_-hunting[53] for the adornment of their houses and gardens. Quite

a collection has been formed in the residency grounds at Jogjakarta, the

nucleus of which was moved thither from the estate Tanjong Tirta, whose

former occupants, like most of the landed gentry, made exceedingly free

with the temples and monasteries in that neighbourhood. As neither they

nor the others bothered about noting where they got this or that piece

of sculpture, we are entirely at sea concerning the meaning of several

beautiful statues. This is the case, _e.g._, with one of remarkably fine

execution, a crowned goddess, sitting on a lotus cushion and encircled

by a flaming aureole, pressing her hands to her bosom. She has been

fortunate enough to escape the fate of some deities who shared her

sequestration and were left to the care of the convicts detailed to keep

the Resident’s compound in trim, a duty performed by whitewashing or

daubing them with a grayish substance, excepting the hair of the head,

the eyebrows, the eyeballs and the _prabha_, which the gentlemen-artists

of the chain-gang are in the habit of painting black, enhancing the

general effect by “restoring” lost hands and feet and damaged faces

after methods nothing short of barbarous, but therefore the better in

keeping with the traditional attitude of those in authority. For this

infamous disfiguration and desecration, which makes any one unaccustomed

to Dutch East Indian processes shudder with horror, never disturbed the

aesthetic sense or equanimity of the several occupants of the residency

who, during the last thirty-five years, saw it going on under their

very eyes, the eyes of the representatives of a Government lavish in

circulars[54] recommending the country’s antiquities to their care.

Neither are those eyes shocked by the “museum” adjoining the residency,

a jumble of plunder from _chandis_ far and near; nor by the chaotic mass

of torsos, arms and legs, fragmentary evidence of wholesale spoliation

behind that pitiful exhibition of archaeology turned topsyturvy.

So much for the statuary removed from the _chandis_, as far as it can

be traced. Concerning the _chandis_ themselves, it should be remembered

that the greater part has wholly disappeared. Hillocks, overspread

with brushwood, sometimes awaken hopes that by digging foundations

and portions of walls may be discovered; heaps of debris, tenanted

by lizards and snakes, point to structures of which nothing that is

left, indicates the former use; shattered ornamental stones speak of

magnificent buildings fallen or pulled down--glimmerings of splendour

that was. The temples still standing are reduced to ruins and diminish

almost visibly in attractiveness and size. Rouffaer[55] gave an

interesting example of their fate in the story of the spiriting away

of the _chandi_ Darawati: in 1889 tolerably well preserved, though two

large statues of the Buddha had been dragged off to the dwelling of a

European in the _dessa_ Gedaren, it was gone in 1894--vanished into air!

The temples constructed of brick, like the _chandi_ Abang, have suffered

even more, of course, than those of stone, the memory of whose grandeur

is retained in a few ghastly wrecks. Reserving the Buddhist remains

for later treatment and passing by the Sivaïte caves with rectangular

porches in the Bagelen, mentioned by Fergusson, I shall deal here with

the _chandis_ Suku and Cheto, and the most noteworthy ruins in the

southern mountains. The latter comprise the _kraton_ of Ratu Boko, Mboq

Loro Jonggrang’s father, as the natives call it, and the temple group of

the Gunoong Ijo. Of the legendary kingly residence little more is left

than a square terrace with portions of a wall and the sill of a gate.

The _chandi_ Ijo consists of a large temple of the usual polygonal form

with ten smaller ones and a pit which contained two stone receptacles

and strips of gold-leaf with the image of a deity and an inscription;

the buildings are in a sad condition, but decay has not impaired their

beauteous dignity and the landscape alone repays a visit to Soro Gedoog,

an estate whose gradual reclamation of the jungle led to their discovery

in 1886 when ground was cleared for an extension of the plantations.

The _chandis_ Suku and Cheto are situated respectively on the western

and northern slope of the Gunoong Lawu, a volcano on the boundary

between Surakarta and Madioon, not less expressive in its scenery of

what heaven has done for this delicious island. Shortly after the

mysterious pyramids of Suku had drawn the attention of Resident Johnson,

in the British Interregnum, Thomas Horsfield visited them and made some

drawings. The inscriptions and the sculptured ornament of Cheto were

reported upon by C. J. van der Vlis, in 1842. The groups belong to the

latest, most decadent period of Hindu architecture in Java and their

foundation, Suku being a few years older than Cheto, must have coincided

with the introduction of the Islām. Bondowoso, the son of the recluse

Damar Moyo, who assisted the King of Pengging against Ratu Boko and took

such signal revenge upon the latter’s daughter, Loro Jonggrang, for

rejecting him, the uncouth slayer of her father, is supposed to have

erected the buildings at Suku. Those at Cheto owe their origin to a

prince of Mojopahit, who quarrelled with his brother, the ruler of that

empire, or, according to another legend, to a certain Kiahi Patiro, who

refused to become a convert to the new faith and repaired to the Lawu,

where he lived as a hermit and was killed by Pragiwongso, an emissary

of the Moslim King of Demak. _Linga_-worship returned in the temple

groups of the Lawu to its crudest modes of expression, and Fergusson,

who mentions the dates 1435 and 1440, speaks of a degraded form of the

Vishnuïte religion, the _garuda_,[56] the boar, the tortoise, etc.,

being of frequent occurrence in the ornamentation. Junghuhn described

the staircases he found, which connected the terraces, and the statues,

which hardly came up to the artistic standard of Prambanan and the Boro

Budoor, one of them distinguishing itself by a colossal head whose

measurement from chin to crown was three feet, half of the whole height.

Comparing his description with the actual state of things, much must

have been removed, heaven knows whither! Notwithstanding the obvious

truth of Fergusson’s remark that a proper illustration of Suku and

Cheto, and, I may be permitted to add, of the remains on the summit

of the mountain, whether originally tree-temples or consecrated to

devotional exercises in the open, _à l’instar_ of West Java, promises

to be of great importance to the history of architecture in the island,

very little has been done in that direction or even for the conservation

of the ruins where _recho_-hunters and a luxurious vegetation vie in

obliterating the traces of most interesting antiquities. Junghuhn

sounded a note of warning apropos of the falling in of the peculiarly

constructed pyramidal temple, May 1838, but this and the other monuments

have been suffered since, as before, to crumble quietly away and the

easily removable sculpture to be carried off. Ganesa, in his manifold

reproductions, seconds on the Lawu his father Siva, head of the

Trimoorti, continuing the lead obtained seven centuries earlier in the

plain of Prambanan, and a systematic study of the reliefs, now covered

with moss and lichens, might shed a good deal of light on several

unsettled questions. One of those reliefs, blending the human and the

divine in the manner of the allusions to the _Brata Yuda_ on the Diëng

plateau and the Rama legend on the walls of the _chandi_ Loro Jonggrang,

represents a complete armoury, with Ganesa, protector of arts and

crafts, between the armourer himself and his assistant who works the

bellows. If, with Rouffaer, we divide the long era during which the

Hindus, first as immigrants and then as rulers, merged gradually in the

aboriginal population, into a Hindu-Javanese period of Central Java and

a Javanese-Hindu period of East Java, the monuments of Suku and Cheto

belong evidently to the epoch of Javanese-Hindu decline, decadent art

flowing back to its classical source, tarnishing original Hindu-Javanese

conceptions. Leaving Buddhist architecture to be dealt with in the

last chapters, and before turning to the _chandis_ of East Java, a

short historical review may aid in the appreciation of this decline and

subsequent paralysis of the creative faculty. Kartikeya, the god of

war, a younger son of Siva and Parvati, had his strong hand in this,

and how he invested and divested mighty princes, who conquered or were

defeated and finally passed away, causing the rise and fall of glorious

kingdoms, is written in the _babads_, the Javanese chronicles, by no

means such old wives’ tales as Dominee Valentijn tried to make them out,

but containing in their extravagance a kernel of stern reality, not the

less explanatory of the condition of the fairy island Java because the

_magnanimes mensonges_ of a vivid imagination animate the dull facts.

Of the Hindu empire Mataram in Central Java nothing tangible is left

except the ruins referred to, a few objects in metal and stone,

accidentally unearthed or dug up by treasure-seekers, and some

inscriptions, title-deeds, etc., the scanty “genuine charters of Java”

as van Limburg Brouwer defined them. The name Mataram has been preserved

on a copper plate, dating from about 900, which agrees in this respect

with four other records, discovered in East Java; the capital of the

_Maharaja i Mataram_ is called Medang. For two centuries, from the

beginning of the eighth until the beginning of the tenth, Mataram seems

to have flourished as the most powerful state in the island, especially

aggressive towards the east. Native tradition, in fond exaggeration

of her importance, makes her sway the destinies of the world. Her

star waned suddenly; by what cause is unknown; but whether it was the

invasion of a mightier enemy or a natural catastrophe, the same as that

which overtook the builders of the Diëng and the plain of Prambanan,

forcing them to leave their work unfinished, ancient Mataram sank into

insignificance. From the middle of the tenth until the beginning of

the sixteenth century, the successors of her former eastern vassals,

that is whichever of them happened to be on top in the continual

struggle for supremacy, did in East and Central Java as they pleased,

warring, intermarrying, annexing their neighbours’ domains, only to

lose them again and their own kingdoms to boot, to usurpers, ambitious

ministers, popular governors of provinces, enterprising _condottieri_

or mere adventurers favoured by Dame Fortune. In that overflowing

arena of high rivalry, dynasties succeeding one another with amazing

rapidity, Daha, situated in what is now Kediri, secured paramount

influence after Kahuripan, situated in what is now Southern Surabaya;

then Tumapel, situated in what is now Pasuruan, became ascendant; then

Daha once more and, last of the great Hindu empires, Mojopahit, about

1300, to be overthrown, after two centuries of preponderance, by the

sword of Islām. Jayabaya, King of Daha, from about 1130 till about

1160, has been called[57] the Charlemagne of Java, in whose reign

learning and letters were encouraged; or the Javanese King Arthur, whose

life among his heroes, in peace and war, is reflected in the idylls

of the _Panji_-cycle, at whose Court the famous poet Mpu Sedah began

his version of the _Mahabharata_, the _Brata Yuda_, finished by Mpu

Panulooh, author of the _Gatotkachasraya_, while Tanakoong wrote the

_Wretta-Sansaya_, a sort of _Epistola de Arte Poetica_. When Tumapel

expanded, especially under Ken Angrok, troublous times arrived for

Daha, which could hardly hold her own against the encroachments of that

unscrupulous monarch. Ken Angrok or Arok, born in 1182 at Singosari,

had seized the royal power after assassinating the old King in 1222 or

1223. The kris he used, had been ordered expressly for that deed from

the famous armourer Mpu Gandring, who was its first victim because he

tarried in delivering it, the tempering of the steel having taken more

time than suited the usurper’s patience. Dying under the murderous

stroke, Mpu Gandring uttered a prophetic curse: This kris will kill

Ken Angrok; it will kill his children and grandchildren; it will

kill seven kings. The prophecy came true with wonderful exactness.

Ken Angrok having married Dedes, the widow of the old King he had

despatched, was himself killed as the third victim of Mpu Gandring’s

kris in the hand of a bravo commissioned by their son Anusapati, the

Hamlet of Javanese history. And how blood followed blood during the

hundred years of Tumapel’s hegemony, how Ken Angrok’s descendants

harassed their neighbours before the curse took effect upon each of

them, appearing like luminous stars in the sky of politics and war, and

then disappearing behind the shadowy cloud of untimely death, is it not

written in the _Pararaton_ or Book of the Kings of Tumapel and

Mojopahit?

The foundation of Mojopahit has been attributed to scions of several

royal families, among them to Raden Tanduran, a prince of Pajajaran

in West Java which, it will be remembered, owed its origin to princes

of Tumapel. The most widely accepted reading is, however, that a

certain Raden Wijaya, commander of the army of King Kertanegara,

great-grandson of Ken Angrok, profiting from his master’s quarrels with

Jaya Katong, ruler of Daha in those days, carved out a kingdom for

himself, reclaiming, always with that end in view, a large area of wild

land, Mojo Lengko or Mojo Lengu, near Tarik in Wirosobo, the present

Mojokerto. King Kertanegara who, by branding the Chinese envoy Meng Ki,

had stirred up trouble with the Flowery Empire, was unable to punish

this act of arrogance, and his violent death in a battle won by the

legions of Daha, meant the inglorious end of Tumapel. This happened in

1292 and the expeditionary force sent from China to chastise him for his

ungracious treatment of ambassadors to his Court, consequently found

their object accomplished or, more correctly speaking, unaccomplishable

when landing in 1293. But its leader indemnified his martial ardour

by entering the service of Raden Wijaya who, with his assistance,

subjugated Daha, which had tried to reassume her former precedence.

Firmly established on the throne of the realm he had fashioned out of

Daha, Tumapel and his own territory near Tarik, he refused, however,

to pay the price stipulated by his Chinese ally and when the auxiliary

troops asked the fulfilment of his promises, arms in hand, he proved to

them that superior strength is the ultimate arbiter of right and sent

them home much diminished in numbers and pride. The Emperor of China,

wroth that the beautiful princesses of Tumapel, daughters of the late

King Kertanegara, whom he had deigned to accept as concubines, were not

forthcoming, but stayed behind to adorn the harem of the self-made King

of Mojopahit, ordered his unsuccessful generalissimo to be flogged by

way of example to other commanding officers. Raden Wijaya who, with the

kingly title, had assumed the name of Kertarajasa, enjoyed his royal

dignity only until 1295 and his ashes were entombed in two places not

yet located: in the _dalem_ (the inner, private part) of his palace

conformably to the Buddhist, and at Simping conformably to the Sivaïte

ritual, not otherwise than King Kertanegara received last honours in the

guise of Siva-Buddha at Singosari and in the guise of a Dhyani Buddha at

Sakala, and the remains of King Kertarajasa’s successor were interred in

three places according to the Vishnuïte ritual, circumstances from which

we may conclude that in East as in Central Java the different creeds

lived together in most amiable harmony.

The kris of Mpu Gandring might limit the earthly term of the descendants

of Ken Angrok, it could not check their prowess while they were still

up and doing. Overlords of East and Central Java, extending their rule

to Pajajaran, they even looked for conquest to the other islands of

the Malay Archipelago. Under Hayam Wurook or Rajasa Nagara, in the

latter half of the fourteenth century, Mojopahit reached her zenith; a

record of 1389 mentions Bali as being tributary since about 1340; Aru,

Palembang and Menangkabau in Sumatra, Pahang with Tumanik in Malacca,

Tanjong Pura in Borneo, Dompo in Soombawa, Ceram and the Goram islands

acknowledged Nayam Wurook’s suzerainty too. Seeing no more worlds to

subdue, he died and, as in the case of Alexander the Great, his empire

fell to pieces; in East Java itself Balambangan seceded from Mojopahit

proper and the Muhammadan propaganda, fanning discord between the

Hindu princes of old and new dynasties, prepared their common doom.

The beginnings of the Islām in East Java have already been spoken of,

with Gresik as a missionary centre, Maulana Malik Ibrahim as the first

_wali_ in that region and the conversion into Moslim vassal states

of the dependencies of Mojopahit, whose princes, combining under the

auspices of Demak against their liege lord, sealed his fate. Raden

Patah of Demak was a man of war and destiny. The fire of the new faith

burning fiercely within him, he hurled his defiance at the stronghold

of the heathen, speaking to the last King of Mojopahit, his father or

grandfather according to tradition, as Amaziah, King of Juda, spoke

to Joash, the son of Jehoahaz, the son of Jehu, King of Israël: Come,

let us see one another in the face,--but with a different result: the

challenger from Demak came out victorious and Mojopahit ceased to exist,

an issue fraught with grave consequences. This occurred about the year

1500[58] and Raden Patah, pursuing the royal family on their flight,

defeated the King or one of his sons again at Malang, where a last stand

was made. But Gajah Mada, the Prime Minister of Mojopahit, founded a

new empire, Supit Urang, which comprised much of the territory once

belonging to Singosari. The Saivas also held out at Pasuruan, which

was invested by Pangeran Tranggana, a successor of Raden Patah, but

after his assassination by one of his servants, the troops of Demak

returned home. Pasuruan and Surabaya reverted, later on, to the Regent

of Madura, a son-in-law of Pangeran Tranggana. Yet, Hinduïsm lingered on

in the island; its political power was only broken with the conquest of

Balambangan by the East India Company in 1767, and the population of the

Tengger mountain region did not commence to accept the Islām until very

recently.

In the confusion which resulted after the death of Pangeran Tranggana

from the disruption of his domains into Cheribon, Jayakarta and Bantam

in the western, Gresik and Kediri in the eastern, and Demak proper and

Pajang in the central part of the island, the latter territory absorbed

Jipang and its Prince Tingkir, a scion of the royal family of Mojopahit,

was proclaimed Sooltan by the spiritual authority of Gresik, the first

time we find that title mentioned in the history of Java. Sooltan

Tingkir appointed one of his trusted servants, Kiahi Ageng Pamanahan,

governor of the tract of land which had preserved the name of Mataram.

Kiahi Ageng Pamanahan improved the condition of the people and his son

Suta Wijaya, who had married a daughter of the Sooltan, making himself

independent by rebelling, by poisoning his father-in-law after his

having been captured and pardoned, finally by taking possession of

the regalia in the subsequent war of succession, became master of the

situation and laid in New Mataram the foundation of another state which,

in the reign of his successor Ageng, 1613-1646, gained the ascendency

over the rest of Java with Madura, subjugating even Sukadana in West

Borneo. Not, however, without strenuous exertion for Balambangan gave

a good deal of trouble in the East and the conquest of Sumedang in the

West, in 1626, taxed the military strength of the rising empire to

its utmost. When the East India Company began to make its influence

felt, Moslim solidarity proved a valuable asset as, for instance, in

the relations with Bantam and Cheribon, whose Pangeran proposed the

title of Susuhunan for Ageng (1625) before Mecca promoted him to the

Sooltanate (1630). In 1628 and 1629 he ventured to attack Batavia, the

new settlement of the Dutch, but had to retire and, what was even worse,

by provoking those upstart strangers, he damaged his trade: they closed

the channels of export to Malacca and other foreign ports of rice, the

principal produce of the land. “Mataram must now become our friend,”

wrote the Governor-General to his masters, the Honourable Seventeen,

and, indeed, Mangku Rat I., Ageng’s son, found himself obliged to

sign a treaty of friendship with the Company--a dangerous friendship!

Differences between their “friend” and Bantam with Cheribon were

sedulously fostered by the authorities at Batavia; the Company took a

hand in the putting down of disturbances created in East Java by Taruna

Jaya of Madura and Kraëng Galesoong of Macassar; the Company patronised

and protected the reigning Sooltans, who moved their residence from

Karta to Kartasura, against pretenders and exacted payment in land,

privileges, concessions, monopolies, etc., shamelessly in excess of the

real or pretended assistance afforded in quelling purposely manufactured

anarchy--precisely as we see it happen nowadays wherever western

civilisation offers her “disinterested” services to eastern countries of

promising complexion for exploitation by western greed.

Mataram, trying to escape from the extortionate friendship of the

honey-tongued strangers at Batavia, whose thirst for gold seemed

unquenchable, has its counterparts in benighted regions now being

“civilised” after the time-honoured recipe: interference which upsets

peace and order, more interference to restore peace and order with

the naturally opposite result, occupation until peace and order will

be restored, gradual annexation. The East India Company’s mean spirit

of haggling was held in utter contempt by the native princes, _grands

seigneurs_ in thought and action, too proud to pay the hucksters with

their own coin, though bad forebodings must have filled the mind,

for instance, of Susuhunan Puger, recognised at Batavia as Mataram’s

figurehead under the name of Paku Buwono I.,[59] when near his capital

a Dutch fort was built and garrisoned with Dutch soldiers to back him

in his exactions for the benefit of alien usurers and sharpers. Like

the rat of Ganesa, they penetrated everywhere and the tale of their

relations to the lords of the land is one of tortuous insinuation until

they had firmly established themselves and could give the rein to their

sordid commercialism in always more exorbitant claims. Paku Buwono II.,

feeling his end approach, was prevailed upon, in 1749, to bequeath his

realm to the Company, but one of the most influential members of the

imperial family decided that this was carrying it a little too far:

Mangku Bumi,[60] brother of Paku Buwono II., supported by Mas Saïd, son

of the exiled Mangku Negara,[61] and other _pangerans_ (princes of the

blood), stood up in arms to defend their country’s rights and inflicted

severe losses on the Dutch troops in stubborn guerrilla warfare. This

led to the partition of Mataram between Paku Buwono III. and his uncle

Mangku Bumi, both acknowledging the supremacy of the Company, the latter

settling at Jogjakarta, the old capital Karta, under the title and

name of Sooltan Mangku Buwono,[62] while Mas Saïd, who did not cease

hostilities before 1757, gained also a quasi-independent position as

Pangeran Adipati Mangku Negara, which in 1796 became hereditary. With

three reigning princes for one, the power of Mataram was definitely

broken and Batavia assumed the direction of her affairs quite openly,

the “thundering field-marshal” Daendels emphasising her state of

decline and the British Interregnum bringing no change.

In 1825 the divided remnant of Mataram, viz. Surakarta with the Mangku

Negaran and Jogjakarta with the Paku Alaman,[63] was deeply stirred by

Pangeran Anta Wiria calling upon his compatriots to chase the oppressors

away. Born from a woman of low descent among the wives of Mangku Buwono

III., Sooltan of Jogjakarta, it seems that, nevertheless, hopes of his

succession to the throne had been held out to him when he assisted his

father against the machinations of his grandfather, Sooltan Sepooh

(Mangku Buwono II.), banished by Raffles in 1812. However this may be,

he resented the settlement of the Sooltanate on the death of Mangku

Buwono III. upon Jarot, an infant son, and other circumstances adding

to his dislike of Dutch control, he raised the standard of revolt. The

Javanese responded with alacrity to an appeal which bore good tidings

of delivery as the wind, ridden by the Maroots who make the mountains

to tremble and tear the forest into pieces, bears good tidings of

coming rain to a parched earth. Anta Wiria, under his more popular

name of Dipo Negoro, and his lieutenants Ali Bassa Prawira Dirja, or

Sentot, and Kiahi Maja, gave the Dutch troops plenty of bloody work in

the five years during which the Java war lasted, 1825-1830. It was the

last eruption on a large scale of the fire imprisoned in the native’s

heart, the last sustained effort at regaining his independence, crushed

by the white man’s superiority in military appliances, but occasional

throbbings, ruffling the surface as in Bantam (1888), the Preanger

Regencies (1902), Kediri (1910), etc., show that the volcano is by no

means an extinguished one. Though “kingdoms are shrunk to provinces and

chains clank over sceptred cities,” the love of liberty, laid by as a

sword which eats into itself, does not own foreign dominion, and the

native princes, especially the Susuhunan of Surakarta and the Sooltan

of Jogjakarta, remain objects of worshipful homage. Their genealogy

remounts to the gods whose essence took substance in the illustrious

prophet Adam who begat Abil and Kabil on the goddess Kawa; the history

of their house begins with the arrival in the island, in the Javanese

year 1, of Aji Soko; they are the _panatagama_ and _sayidin_ (_shah

ad-din_), directors and leaders of religion; their Courts set the

fashion in high native society, Solo[64] being more gay and extravagant,

Jogja[64] more sedate and solid, as a writer at the end of the

eighteenth century already remarked.

The Dutch Government recognises the imperial or royal dignity of

Susuhunan and Sooltan by the superior position of its Residents in the

capitals of their Principalities, who, directly responsible to the

Governor-General, correspond in rank to the general officers of the

army, while the administrative heads of the other residencies have

to content themselves with the honours due to a colonel; also by the

institution of dragoon body-guards whose ostensibly ornamental presence

can be and has been turned to good account when the mental intoxication

arising from meditation on gilded disgrace, charged with the lightning

of passion, produces effects irreconcilable with the fiction that all

is for the best in this best of worlds. With the Government steadily

encroaching on the native princes’ ancient rights, bitterness grows

apace and irritation at the recoiling weight of bondage lives on, though

colonial reports represent it as dead. Truly, in the three centuries

during which it pleased Kuwera, the fat god of wealth, to inspire the

strangers from the West, rich in promise but slow in performance,

exacting and pitiless, to deeds of unprincipled rapacity, the people

have learned to hide their thoughts that worse may not follow, hoping

that time will set things right. But as everything points more clearly

to the fixed purpose of the Dutch Government to avail themselves of

every pretext for swallowing the Principalities as all the rest has been

gobbled up, there are those who cherish the memory of Dipo Negoro and

consider the necessity of new man-offerings: the greater the need, the

greater must be the propitiation. On the whole, however, better counsel

prevails, deliverance being sought on planes of mystic exercise, silent

submission being practised in expectation of the consummation of a

higher will, and this is the native’s secret as he repeats the lessons

inculcated in the _Wulang Reh_, the treatise on ethics written by one

of the eminent of the past, Sunan Paku Buwono IV.: May ye imitate our

ancestors, who were endowed with supernatural strength, and may ye

qualify for penitence, heeding closely the perfection of life; this is

my prayer for my children; be it granted! Meanwhile taxation increases,

but who can object to that when in days of old the good people had to

pay for the privilege of looking at the public dancers, whether they

cared to look at them or not; when compulsory contributions to the

exchequer were levied upon one-eyed persons for their being so much

better off than the totally blind; etc.... Fancy a Minister of Finance

in Holland defending a vexatious new assessment on the ground of

arbitrary cesses in the Middle Ages!

Hindu art had lost its vitality when the second empire of Mataram arose

in Central Java and the cult of the ideal was effected by modernising

currents from the eastern part of the island. Sanskrit, as the vehicle

of thought in Venggi and Nagari characters, made place for Kawi which,

related in its oldest forms to Pali and in its symbols to the Indian

alphabets, evolved soon afterward into a specific Javanese type.

Sivaïte literature paved the way for the _Manik Maya_, the _Bandoong_,

the _Aji Saka_, the _Panji_- and the _Menak_- or _Hamza_-cycles, the

_Damar Wulan_; as to Buddhist literature, Burnouf’s comment upon its

inferiority holds also good for Java: no trace exists even of a life of

the Buddha, of _jataka_-tales, except such as have originated in the

eastern kingdoms at a comparatively late date. Literary culture in the

seventeenth and eighteenth centuries was a continuation of and throve on

the efforts of the great authors hospitably entertained at the Courts of

Mojopahit and Kediri. The Javanese language with the wealth of words it

acquired and the diversity of expression it developed,[65] exercised and

still exercises in its four dialects[66] a vivifying influence upon the

Soondanese speech in the west and the Madurese in the east. Its script,

like the people who speak and write it, and cling to their _hadat_,

the manners and customs of the _jaman buda_, which, notwithstanding

their Islāmitic veneer, they prefer to the law of the Prophet,--its

script rejects Moslim interference and refuses to employ the Arabic

characters, sticking to its equally beautiful _aksaras_ and _pasangans_.

Religions succeeding one another, generally without discourteous haste,

Muhammadanism penetrated Central Java but slowly from the north, first

by the conversion of the great and mighty who profited by the example

of Mojopahit, then by grafting the idea of the one righteous god upon

the godless Buddhist or pantheistic Hindu creed of the _orang kechil_,

the man of slight importance who, up to this day, though fervent in

his outward duties as a Moslim, shows in every act that his individual

and national temperament is rooted in pre-Islāmic idiosyncrasies. The

heroes of the _Brata Yuda_ and _Ramayana_ are just as dear to him as

the pre-Islāmic saints whose legends are gathered in the story of _Raja

Pirangon_ and the _Kitab Ambia_, as the forerunners, companions and

helpers of the Apostle of God.

The sacred _waringin_, never wanting in the _aloon aloon_, the open

places before the dwellings of the rulers of the land and their

deputies, what is it but the bo-tree, the tree of enlightenment?

One of venerable age in the imperial burial-ground of Pasar Gedeh,

planted, according to tradition, by Kiahi Ageng Pamanahan or his son

Suta Wijaya, announces without fail the demise of a member of one of

the reigning families either at Solo or at Jogja, by shedding one of

its branches. Pasar Gedeh, Selo and Imogiri are silent spots, peopled

with the dead whose lives’ strength made history and is mourned as the

strength of a glorious past. Selo, an enclave belonging to Surakarta, in

Grobogan, residency Samarang, contains the ancestral tombs of the rulers

of Mataram; Imogiri and Pasar Gedeh in Jogjakarta, which latter marks

the site of the original seat of empire and was comparatively recently

put to its present use, are the cemeteries common to the royalty of both

Principalities, and guarded by officials, _amat dalam_ with the title

of Raden Tumenggoong, appointed by mutual consent. A Polynesian bias

to ancestor-worship, unabated by Hinduïsm, Buddhism and Muhammadanism,

accounts for the almost idolatrous adoration[67] of the graves of the

Susuhunans and Sooltans, their ancestors and also their progeny that

did not attain to thrones, receptacles of once imperial dust, feeding

the four elements from which it proceeded and to which it returns like

meaner human clay. Look, says Kumala in the Buddhist parable, all in the

world must perish! The religious brethren of his faith used to repair at

night to the sepulchres of those taken to bliss and spend the lone hours

in pondering on the instability of conscious existence, desiring to gain

the Nirvana by their undisturbed meditations, but Sivaïte associations

people the old graveyards of Java with _raksasas_, monstrous giants,

eaters of living and dead men and women, and santons, bent on prayer

amid the last abodes of the departed, have been terrified, especially at

Pasar Gedeh, by weird noises and apparitions signalling their approach,

commending hasty retreat to the wise. It is advisable to distrust

darkness there and rather to choose the day for acts of devotion, even

if annoyed by worldlings who come to consult the big white tortoise in

the tank, ancient Kiahi Duda, widower of Mboq Loro Kuning, presaging

the better luck the farther he paddles forth from his subaqueous

habitation. At a little distance is the _sela gilang_, a bluish stone

with a more than half effaced inscription, only the lettering of the

border being legible. Tradition calls it the _dampar_ (throne) of Suta

Wijaya, sitting on which he killed Kiahi Ageng Mangir, his rival and

owner of the miraculous lance Kiahi Baru, who had been lured into his

presence by one of his daughters to do homage by means of the _ujoong_,

the kissing[68] of the knee; near by are a stone mortar and large stone

cannon-balls, the largest possessing the faculty of granting untold

wealth to those strong enough to carry it three times without stopping

round the _sela gilang_, whose legend, carved by a prisoner of war,

either a spirit of the air or a magician, reveals in its marginal

commentary a philosophic mind coupled with linguistic talents: _zoo gaat

de wereld--così va il mondo--ita movet tuus mundus--ainsi va le monde_.

Selo, Imogiri and Pasar Gedeh: so goes the world indeed, and the

nameless prisoner of war’s motto, preserved near the _pasarahan dalam_,

the imperial garden of rest, would be hardly less appropriate over the

gates leading to the _kratons_, the residences[69] of the Susuhunan of

Surakarta and the Sooltan of Jogjakarta, where they do the grand in

the grand old way, cherishing the memories of a power gone by. A visit

to the Principalities without an invitation to attend some function

at Court cannot be called complete and it is a treat to watch the

ceremonial exercises connected with one of the three _garebegs_[70] or

with the salutations on imperial birthdays and coronation-days in the

roomy _pendopos_, the open halls whose general style betrays its Hindu

origin no less than the aspect, the dresses, the movements of the native

nobility, officials and retainers, an assemblage of a fairy tale, betray

their Hindu parentage. The _bangsal kenchono_, the audience-chamber

of the Sooltan at Jogja, is a masterpiece of construction in wood, the

carved beams and joists, richly gilt and painted in bright colours,

forming a ceiling of wonderful airiness and elegance; in the _bangsal

witono_ the Sooltan shows himself to the people on days of great gala;

in the _bangsal kemandoongan_, a hall in one of the many open squares

of the palace grounds, seated on his _dampar_ or throne, he used to

witness the execution of his subjects sentenced to death, who were

krissed[71] against the opposite wall; another of these open squares

was dedicated to pleasures which remind of the _munera gladiatoria_,

more especially of the _ludi funebres_, and kindred amusements with a

good deal of local colour: we find it chronicled of Sunan Mangku Rat I.,

Java’s Nero, that once he beguiled a tedious afternoon in his _kraton_

at Kartasura by stripping a hundred young women and letting a few tigers

loose among them. The dining-hall (_gedong manis_: room of sweets) in

the _kraton_ at Jogja, to the south of the audience-chamber, can easily

hold three hundred guests with the host of servants they require; at

Solo the imperial stables and coach-houses[72] are scarcely inferior in

interest to the friend of horses, riding, driving and coaching, than the

Kaiserlich-Königliche Marstall at Vienna or the Caballerizas Reales at

Aranjuez. But of all the sights at the Courts of the Principalities of

Central Java it is the human element that fascinates most, a waving mass

of silent figures in the magnificent setting which reflects centuries

of _Sturm und Drang_, the new to the visitor’s eye being nothing but

the very, very old; men taught by fate to treasure their thoughts up in

their hearts, as their mountains do the hidden fire, worshipping _tempu

dahulu_, sustained by _l’amour du bon vieulx tems_, _l’amour antique_,

even the rising generation remaining apparently unaffected by the

example of western fickleness, an inconstancy ever more pronounced since

the illustrious citizen of Florence, of the Porta San Piera, commented

on it:

_Che l’uso de’ mortali è come fronda

In ramo, che sen va, ed altra viene._[73]

The country-seats of Susuhunans and Sooltans, where they sought repose

from cares of state, often contained temples erected, if not in the

name then in the spirit of their kind of sacrifice, to Kama, the god

of love, smuggled into the practice of a later creed. They had no

wish to become the victims of their virtue like the excellent King

Suvarnavarna; they did not aspire to the fame accruing to Rama in

his relations to the female demon Shoorpanakha, personification of

sublunar temptations. And the manifold functions assigned to water in

their pleasances, to the limpid, running water of the cool mountain

rills, are characteristic of an island where a bath, at least twice a

day, preferably in the open, is both a necessity and a luxury which the

poorest does not dream of denying himself. Observe the crowds of men,

women and children, always chaste and decent, disporting themselves

in lakes and rivers, every morning and every evening; note the names

of Pikataän, Kali Bening, Banyu Biru, idyllic spots and equal to the

classic _chandi_ Pengilon, Sidamookti and Wanasari to the lover of a

plunge and a swim, screened by flowers and foliage, with the blue heaven

smiling on his joy. Passing by Ambar Winangoon and Ambar Rookma, the

remains of the so-called water-castle at Jogjakarta convey some notion

of the manner in which royal personages sought recreation, amusing

themselves in their parks of delight, fragrant and tranquil like the

restful Loombini, where Maya gave birth to the Buddha; toying with their

women in and round the crystalline fluid. An abundant spring within the

boundaries of the palace grounds led to the conception of this retreat

or, rather, these retreats, for there were two, connected by a system of

canals which speaks highly for native hydraulics, though the buildings

erected to obey a capricious will, show in their present ruinous state

how architecture had degraded since the Hindu period, its flimsy

productions being unable to withstand the first serious earthquake. Of

Pulu Gedong, to the northeast of the _aloon aloon kidool_, nothing

is left but crumbling portions of the walls which jealously guarded the

privacy of the Sooltan’s watersports. Of Taman Sari and Taman Ledok,

situated in the western part of the _kraton_, a good deal is still

recognisable, especially the structures on Pulu Kenanga in the largest

of the artificial lakes which are now dry ground, the one here meant

being incorporated into a _kampong_, one of the several groups of native

dwellings inhabited by the Sooltan’s numerous retainers. The whilom

islands convey in quite a picturesque way the lesson that human works

must die like the hands that fashioned them.

[Illustration: XIII. WATER-CASTLE AT JOGJAKARTA

(Centrum.)]

The building of the “water-castle”, whose pavilions, artificial lakes,

tanks and gardens spread over an area of about twenty-five acres,

was begun in 1758 by a Buginese architect under the orders of Mangku

Buwono I., a great raiser of edifices, as Nicolaas Hartingh[74] wrote

in 1761, and maker of “fountains, grotto-work and conduits which,

though completed, he orders immediately to be pulled down, not finding

them to his taste, thus squandering some little money.” We possess a

description[75] of the _kraton_ at Jogjakarta, dated September 1791,

from the hand of Carl Friedrich Reimer,[76] who speaks of “a collection

of gardens, fish-ponds and pleasure-pools.” He probably visited Pulu

Gedong before proceeding to Taman Sari[77] and expatiates on the

spaciousness of the dwelling room in Pulu Kananga, where it seems that

the Court could find plenty of accommodation. But what made the greatest

impression on the expert in hydraulics was the arrangement of passages

and an apartment for prayer and meditation under water, as if the

Sooltan deemed it an advantage to worship surrounded by the babbling

stream, light and fresh air being provided through turrets rising above

the surface. In the place called Oombool Winangoon, situated on a low

level, with three tanks, fed from the great lake of Taman Sari, was a

cool retreat where the Sooltan used to rest a while after his bath,

refreshing himself with a cup of tea. Alluding to the Sumoor Gumuling,

Reimer remarks that the architect must have chosen a round form for

his structure to make it the better resist the pressure of the water

all round. The strange building which went by that name and consisted

of two concentric walls with a flat roof,[78] taken for a subaqueous

house of prayer by the visitor of 1791, has also been very differently

explained: some see in its remains a dancing-school, awakening visions

of the Sooltan’s _corps de ballet_ practising in the first storey to

the dulcet tones of the _gamelan_, the native orchestra, that ascended

from the basement and aided them in going through their paces; others

connect it with functions never referred to in polite society and which

have nothing in common with praying, either with the heart or with

the feet, more correctly speaking: with the arms, hands and hips, for

Javanese dancing is no loose skipping and hopping about, but a graceful

and expressive play of the body and more particularly of the upper limbs

in rhythmic, undulating motion. Passing from one lake to the next, the

Sooltan’s means of conveyance was the _prahu_ Niahi Kuning, a gorgeously

decorated barge, given to him by the East India Company; other boats,

plying between Taman Sari and Taman Ledok, were at the disposal of the

ladies of the royal household desirous of an outing with their babies;

two small skiffs left their moorings every night alternately, at a

signal given on a _bendeh_, to feed the fishes, which knew the sound and

assembled in shoals. The guard-rooms near the northern watergate, of

which the remaining one, _i.e._ the one not altogether fallen into ruin,

shelters in the morning a motley crowd of sellers of fruit, vegetables,

sweetmeats, etc., witnesses to the Company’s dragoons, protecting and

shadowing their Highnesses of Surakarta and Jogjakarta with the princes

of their blood, already having been entrusted with that task in the days

of Mangku Buwono I.

Of the delicately carved woodwork hardly a trace remains, but some

foliage and birds among flowers, executed in stucco, give evidence

of a good taste which knew how to make old motives subservient to new

requirements. Though a Muhammadan pleasance, designed by a Muhammadan

architect for a Muhammadan prince, the _garuda_ over one of the

entrances, the Banaspatis on gables and fronts in Taman Sari and Taman

Ledok, the _nagas_ coping the balustrades of the staircases, show that

Hindu conceptions continued to leaven Javanese art. The relations with

China and the consequent influx of Chinamen have also borne their fruit

in Central Java as in Cheribon and the eastern kingdoms: Reimer informs

us that the galleries and tops (now gone) of the several buildings

were constructed like pointed vaults, and were wrought “in the manner

of Chinese roofs”; Pulu Gedong was famous for the lofty Chinese tower

erected near the spring which furnished the water for the “castle”,

its lakes, ponds, tanks and canals, and for the irrigation of its

grounds. The orchards, renowned for their mangoes and pine-apples, the

vegetable-, sirih- and flower-gardens had a great reputation in the

land; assiduous attention was paid to horticulture on the principle,

well understood by oriental gardeners, that flower-beds, ornamental

groves and bowers are like women; that however much art and pains

are bestowed on their make-up, the art of arts is the concealment

thereof.... Writing this it occurs to me how properly a western version

of that universally approved maxim has been put in the mouth of

_Gärtnerinnen_, _niedlich_ and _galant_:

[Illustration: XIV. WATER-CASTLE AT JOGJAKARTA

(Centrum.)]

_Denn das Naturell der Frauen

Ist so nah mit Kunst verwandt._[79]

Though Mangku Buwono I. was a contemporary of Goethe, his knowledge of

_Faust_ is extremely doubtful, but being an artist in his own way, he

took care that the natural scenery, assisted by art, should contribute

to a pleasant general impression in the distribution of the dwellings

for his retinue: native princes (and of his rank too!) do not move an

inch inside or outside their _kratons_ without numberless attendants at

their heels. In the “water-castle” were apartments, not only for the

Sooltan, for the Ratu, his first legitimate spouse, for his other wives

and concubines, for the little family they had presented him with, but

for the dignitaries of his Court, officials of all degrees, secretaries,

servants of every description, various artificers from the armourers

down to the _kebon kumukoos_, the makers of _tali api_ (fire-rope),

necessary for lighting his Highness’ cigars. There were reception-,

dining-, living- and sleeping-rooms for the Sooltan, his Ratu and

female relatives, each apart; common rooms for the _selir_ (wives of

lower degree); rooms for the instruction of their children; rooms where

his Highness’ daughters spent a few hours every day in _batikking_;

guard-rooms for the _prajurits_, the male guards; guard-rooms for

the female guards under command of the Niahi Tumanggoong, a lady of

consequence, who kept and keeps the _dalam_, the interior of the

_kraton_, under constant observation so that no illicit _amourettes_

shall occur in the women’s quarters, and yet--! There were store-rooms,

kitchens, workshops, prisons, halls set apart for the dancers, male

and female; the cream of the female dancers, the _srimpis_ and girl

_bedoyos_, were probably housed in or near the principal pavilion on

Pulu Kananga, of which the Sooltan occupied the eastern and the Ratu the

western portion. Above all there were the bath-rooms, dedicated to Kama

and his wife Rati of Hindu memory; and since the parrot is the _vahana_

of that frivolous god, many are the unspeakable tales of revived rites

of his luxurious worship.

The etiquette at Court is fitly illustrated by the two tea-houses of

Taman Sari, the eastern one for the Grand Pourer-out-of-Tea of the

Right, who presided over the preparation of the delectable beverage

for the Sooltan, and the western ditto for the Grand Pourer-out-of-Tea

of the Left, who provided for the Ratu. A scrupulous punctilio is

ingrained in Javanese habits and customs, from high to low, on great

and small occasions, the native’s mentality always reverting to

things which were, but never more can be. The homage done to sacred

objects, arms, _gamelans_, etc., by giving them a human name and a

title,[80] venerating them as if endowed with supernatural faculties,

recalls Polynesian fetishism, Hinduïsm being blended with it in Siva’s

_trishula_, Vishnu’s _chakra_, etc., which are still carried behind the

native princes among their _ampilan_.[81] The _upacharas_ or imperial

and royal _pusakas_[82] are treated with the utmost reverence when

shown at the appearance in public of Susuhunan or Sooltan, and their

bearers, the _koncho ngampil_, who hold an honoured position at the

Courts of Solo and Jogja, may be considered direct successors of the

envoys of King Dasharatha on the reliefs of the _chandi_ Loro Jonggrang,

who bore his regalia when meeting Rama and Lakshama. The strange

ceremonial, preserved from the time when gods walked amongst men, seems

hardly antiquated, on the contrary very germane to _siti-inggil_[83]

surroundings. One need not visit the _kratons_ though, to notice how

the spirit of the past permeates all things Javanese; any well-dressed

native getting out of his _sado_[84] at the railway station or repairing

thither on foot for a journey with the fire-carriage, will do. Even if

he cannot afford the few _doits_[85] necessary and must impair his

dignity by going afoot, he has his retainers to look after his box

and, stuck behind, he has his magnificent kris in a sheath of gold,

with a beautifully carved ivory handle, in nine cases out of ten a

_pusaka_, cherished like the kris Kolo Munyang of the Prince of Kudoos

or, as others allege, of a Susuhunan of Surakarta, who sent the weapon,

which killed its master’s enemies without human direction, to the

assistance of Pangeran Bintoro, then oppressed by a king of Mojopahit.

The chronology of this legend is evidently a little faulty, but, O! the

wonders of Java’s golden age, and, O! the superstitious honour in which

their memory is held by these lovable people, whose actual existence is

a dream of days gone by. And that happy dream, they ween, is a presage

of the future, prophesying the restoration of their fathers’ heritage.

If, nevertheless, the hour draws near of unconditional surrender, the

Dutch Government steadily and surely arrogating to itself the externals

with the substance of power in the Principalities, they will silently

submit to the _nivarana_ of their ancient faith, the hindrance arising

from torpor of mind appointed to them in the _sansara_, the rotary

sequence of the world, and seek consolation in the promise of their new

faith that the Lord will not deal wrongly with his servants. The life of

nations, like the life of men, starts running as the mountain torrent

and meets many an obstacle before it swells to a broad river in the

plains and flows tranquilly and mightily to the sea; also for Java it is

written:

... Non anche,

l’opra del secol non anche è piena.[86]

[Illustration]

FOOTNOTES:

[49] _Batikking_ is the art of dyeing woven goods by immersing them in

successive baths of the required colour, protecting the parts to be left

undyed by applying a mixture of beeswax and resin.

[50] A _stupa_, lit. a mound, a tumulus, is a memorial structure,

sometimes raised over a relic of the Buddha, one of the eight thousand

portions into which his ashes were divided, or a tooth, or any other

fragment of his remains. The combination of such a memento of the Most

Chaste with the emblem of supreme virility is syncretism indeed!

[51] Professor Dr. H. H. JUYNBOLL in the _Bijdragen tot de

Taal-, Land- en Volkenkunde van Nederlandsch Indië_, Ser. vii., vol.

vi., nr. 1.

[52] Those not in the Government service: planters, industrials, etc.,

always of lower caste in general, especially official esteem, than

the select who draw their salaries from Batavia. Hence the native

designation of such an inferior individual as a _particulier saja_,

“only” a private person.

[53] _Recho_ or _rejo_ is the name given to any sort of statue.

[54] From _circulus_, circle, something round, which rolls easily away

into oblivion as it is intended to; but, if nothing else, _la folie

circulaire_ keeps the fiction of governmental guidance and control

alive.

[55] Speaking at a meeting of the _Royal Geographical Society of the

Netherlands_, December 27, 1902.

[56] Vishnu’s _vahana_ or bearer, the monster-bird.

[57] By G. P. ROUFFAER, _Indische Gids_, February 1903.

[58] The fall of Mojopahit has been put at 1478 (Javanese chronicles),

1488 (VETH’S _Java_, 2nd ed.) and between 1515 and 1521

(ROUFFAER).

[59] Paku Buwono, like Paku Alam, means “nail which fastens the

universe.”

[60] Lit. “the one who has the world in his lap,” _i.e._ the supporter

(ruler) of the world.

[61] Lit. “the one who has the empire in his lap,” _i.e._ the supporter

(ruler) of the empire.

[62] Lit. “the one who has the universe in his lap,” _i.e._ the

supporter (ruler) of the universe.

[63] A fourth semi-independent domain, created at the expense of

Jogjakarta for the benefit of Pangeran Nata Kusuma, ally of the British

during the troubles of 1811 and 1812.

[64] Common abbreviations, in speaking and writing, of Surakarta and

Jogjakarta; Solo is, to put it correctly, the name of the place where

Paku Buwono II., after his old _kraton_ had been destroyed by fire in

the civil war diligently fostered by the Company, built the present one,

_Surakarta Hadiningrat_, _i.e._ the most excellent city of heroes.

[65] _Ngoko_ is spoken among the common people, among children, by

adults to children and by those of superior to those of inferior rank;

_kromo_ by those of inferior to those of superior rank and by people

of high rank amongst themselves unless differences in social degree or

grades of relationship require another mode of address; _dagellan_ or

_gendaloongan_ (in Surakarta) and _madya_ (in Jogjakarta), a mixture of

_ngoko_ and _kromo_, by people of equal rank conversing in an unofficial

capacity, politely but without constraint, by those of superior to those

of inferior rank, their seniors in years whom they wish to honour,

by merchants of equal rank and the higher servants of the nobility

to one another; _kromo-inggil_ comprises a group of words used when

referring to whatever is divine or very exalted on earth; _basa kedaton_

is the language of the Court, spoken by all males in the presence of

the reigning prince or in his _kraton_ whether he be present or not,

but in addressing him or his heir presumptive, _kromo_ is used; the

reigning prince employs _ngoko_ interspersed with _kromo-inggil_ words

when referring to himself; the women in the _kraton_ speak _kromo_ or

_kromo-madya_ among themselves, _basa kedaton_ to such men-folk as

they are allowed to see and _kromo_ to the reigning prince or his heir

presumptive; _ngoko andap_ is a coarse sort of speech which descends

to the use of words, in relation to man, ordinarily applied only to

animals; _kromo-dessa_ means rustic speech in general.

[66] The central and most refined Javanese of Mataram or Surakarta,

spoken in the Principalities, the Kadu, the Bagelen, Madioon and Kediri;

the western Javanese, spoken in Cheribon and Banyumas; the _basa_ or

_temboong pasasir_ (speech of the coast), spoken in Tagal, Pekalongan,

Samarang, Yapara and Rembang; the eastern Javanese, spoken in Surabaya,

Pasuruan, Probolinggo and Besuki.

[67] A cult with a ritual handed down from the past and scrupulously

observed. Cf. the account of a visit to Selo in 1849, published from

papers left by Dr. M. W. SCHELTEMA, in _De Gids_, December,

1909.

[68] The Javanese do not kiss in the disgusting, unwholesome, western

fashion; they smell or sniff, using the olfactory instead of the

osculatory organs, as sufficiently indicated by the words of the native

vocabulary describing the operation referred to. In this matter again,

the Hindu immigrants may have made their influence felt. Cf. Professor

E. WASHBURN HOPKINS’ interesting paper on _The Sniff-Kiss in

Ancient India_, in the _Journal of the American Oriental Society_, vol.

xxviii., first half, 1907.

[69] Including, besides the palaces and palace grounds, thickly

inhabited little towns. The _kraton_ of Surakarta contains, _e.g._,

more than ten thousand people, all belonging to the imperial family and

household, from the princes to their dependents, servants and hangers

on: court dignitaries, court functionaries, gold- and silversmiths,

wood-carvers, carpenters, masons, musicians, etc. Within its walls

is also the imperial _mesdjid_, a fine, large building with a widely

visible gilt roof.

[70] The _garebeg mulood_, _garebeg puasa_ and _garebeg besar_,

corresponding with the _maulid_ (feast of the Prophet’s birth), _id

al-fitr_ (feast of breaking the fast) and _id al-qorban_ (feast of the

sacrifice).

[71] _Krissing_, a form of capital punishment until recently still in

use in the island of Bali, consisted in driving a kris to the heart of

the condemned man, sometimes under circumstances of refined cruelty,

the executioner not being permitted to put an end to his victim’s agony

before the prince, presiding in person or by deputy, had given the

signal for the _coup de grâce_.

[72] A story is told of a Susuhunan of Surakarta having ordered a

magnificent landau from one of the first _carrossiers_ in Paris, that

the favoured industrial was advised to send some cooking-pans with it

on delivery. Asking: What for? he got the answer: To poach the eggs his

Highness’ chickens will lay in your carriage. Splendour and squalor live

near together in the households of thriftless oriental potentates.

[73]

For usage with mortal man is like the leaf

On the bough, which goes and another comes.

[74] Governor and Director of Java’s northeast coast, afterwards member

of the Governor-General’s Council at Batavia.

[75] Published by H. D. H. BOSBOOM from papers in the Dutch

National Archives.

[76] Titular Major, afterwards Lieutenant-Colonel of the Corps of

Engineers, Director of Fortifications and Inspector of Canals, Dams,

Dikes and Waterways.

[77] REIMER’S description leaves Taman Ledok _in dubio_ and

a reason for his probable non-admittance there, may be found in the

circumstance that it appears to have been the part of the pleasance

reserved for the recreation of the Sooltan’s concubines.

[78] Whence the name: _oombool_, like _sumoor_, means “well” or

“spring”, and _gumuling_, derived from _guling_, means “rolled up”,

“lying flat.”

[79]

For nature in woman

Is so near akin to art.

[80] Kiahi is a very common one. Dr. J. GRONEMAN, whose

description of the water-castle at Jogjakarta contains a good many

interesting particulars, mentions the name of the barge of state,

presented to Paku Buwono I. by the East India Company, Niahi Kuning, as,

to his knowledge, the only instance of a female appellation being given

to royal paraphernalia--perhaps on the same principle as that which

makes us, too, speak of a ship as of a “she”.

[81] Emblems of royalty; more strictly: objects of virtu belonging to

the reigning family.

[82] A _pusaka_ is an heirloom, generally with luck bringing properties

either to the rightful owner or to any one who secures possession of it.

[83] Lit. “the high place” of the _kraton_.

[84] Short for _dos-à-dos_, a kind of vehicle naturalised in Java;

offering only problematic comfort at its very best, the ramshackle

specimens plying for hire in the streets of the capital towns of the

island, beat everything ever invented anywhere else in the world for

inflicting torture on the pretext of conveyance.

[85] _Doits_ are copper coins of endless variety, demonetised

more than half a century ago but still used by the natives almost

exclusively and to the prejudice of the legal “cent”, the hundredth

part of the “guilder” or legal unit of the Dutch East Indian currency,

notwithstanding the Government’s efforts (on paper) through the medium

of financial geniuses, whose name is Legion and whose practical

performance is Nihil, to put the monetary system and colonial finance in

general on a firm, workable basis.

[86] ... Not yet, the work of (our) time has not yet reached its

fullness.

[Illustration]

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