CHAPTER VI

[Illustration]

The houses of the wealthy inhabitants are on the east side of the

city, and are separated from the streets by high walls. On entering

the grounds, the visitor passes through several courtyards and

reception halls, supported on beautifully carved granite pillars, a

wealthy Chinese gentleman sparing no expense in the lavish and

tasteful decoration of his home. From the courtyards one enters the

gardens, in which there is invariably a pond in which water-flowers--

lilies, lotus, etc.--are grown, and in which there are shoals of

goldfish. A rockery is generally added, with quaintly contrived

approaches and caverns, and a bridge over the pond leads now and again

to a small island on which a decorated tea-house has been erected. The

bridge is always angular, like those that are seen on the old blue

china plates. In one large house, from which the owner was absent,

were some specimens of hammered iron-work that were the very

perfection of artistic workmanship. They were blades of grass, reeds,

and flowers, each specimen being placed in a window between two panes

of glass. These specimens of iron-work were made about four hundred

and fifty years ago by an artist whose name is still held in honour.

Large sums have been offered for them, but the fortunate owner holds

them more precious than gold.

A great feature of Canton is its flower-boats, of which many hundreds

are moored together, and form regular streets. These boats are all

restaurants, and here the wealthy young Chinamen entertain each other

at their sumptuous feasts. The giver of the entertainment always

engages four or five young women for each guest, who sit behind the

gentlemen and assist in their entertainment. As the feast is a long

function, consisting of many courses, it is not necessary for the

guests to be present during the entire function. Sometimes a guest

will put in an appearance for one or two courses. Music is played and

songs are sung, and possibly there may be ramifications of the

entertainment into which one does not pry too closely; but again there

are regulated customs in China openly acknowledged and less harmful

than the ignored but no less existing canker that has eaten into the

heart of Western civilization.

The wives and daughters of officials are in small towns at a certain

disadvantage, for etiquette demands that they shall confine their

visits to their social equals, who are not many. In large cities they

have the ladies of the wealthy merchants to visit, and they are by no

means devoid of subjects of conversation. They take a keen interest in

public affairs, and exercise no small an amount of influence upon

current topics. Many of the Chinese ladies are well educated, and have

no hesitation in declaring their views on matters connected with their

well-being. A very short time ago there was in Canton a public meeting

of women to protest against an unpopular measure. One result of

missionary effort in China has been the education of a large number of

Chinese women of different classes in English, which many Chinese

ladies speak fluently. When Kang Yu Wei, the Chinese reformer, was in

Hong Kong, having taken refuge there after his flight from Peking, his

daughter was a young Chinese lady who spoke only her own language. Two

years later, during which time the family had resided in the Straits

Settlements, this lady passed through Hong Kong, speaking English

fluently. She was on her way to the United States to pursue her

studies.

The movement for reform that has begun to agitate China is by no

means confined to the men. In 1900 a women's conference met in

Shanghai, under the presidency of Lady Blake, to consider the question

of the home life of the women of China. The conference sat for four

days, during which papers were read by both European and Chinese

ladies on various social questions and customs affecting all classes

of the women of China. The conference covered a wide range of

subjects:--Treatment of Children; Daughters-in-law; Betrothal of Young

Children and Infants; Girl Slavery in China; Foot-binding; Marriage

Customs; Funeral Customs; Social Customs; and its proceedings contain

valuable accounts at first hand of the conditions and customs of women

from every part of the Middle Kingdom. The following remarks were made

by the president at the conclusion of the conference.

[Illustration]

[Illustration: A TYPICAL STREET SCENE.]

"We have now concluded the consideration of the subjects that were

selected for discussion at this conference on the 'Home Life of

Chinese Women.' We have all, I am sure, been keenly interested in the

excellent papers and addresses with which we have been favoured,

containing so much information from all parts of this vast empire that

must have been new to many of us. I regret to find that the lot of

Chinese women, especially of the lower classes, appears on closer

observation even less agreeable than I had thought. The hard fate of

so many of the slave-girls, for example, must excite the pity and

sympathy of all men and women not altogether selfishly insensible to

human sufferings from which they are exempt. But while we have been

gazing on a good deal of the darker side of the lives of the women and

girls of China, we must not forget that shadows cannot exist without

light, so there must be a bright side in life for many Chinese women,

and some of the papers read have shown us that no small number of

Chinese ladies, independently of European influences, extend

noble-minded and practical charity to those amongst their humbler

neighbours who may stand in need of such assistance. Possibly some of

us may be too apt to judge the better classes of the Chinese by the

standards of the lower orders, with whom as a general rule Europeans

are chiefly thrown. How would the denizens of our ancient cathedral

closes, or the occupants of our manor-houses at home, like foreigners

to judge of them by the standard of the inhabitants of the lower

stratum of our society and the waifs and strays, who too often in

other lands bring the reverse of credit to their country? I cannot

help hoping, likewise, that as habit becomes second nature--and that

to which we are accustomed seems less dreadful, even when

intrinsically as bad--so some things that to us would make

existence a purgatory may not be quite so terrible to the women of

China as they appear to us. I would fain hope that even in such a

matter as foot-binding there may be some alleviation to the sufferings

of those who practise it, in the pride that is said to feel no pain.

Of the deleterious effects of the practice--physically and

mentally--there can be no doubt, and it is most satisfactory to find

that the spark of resistance to the fashion of foot-binding has been

kindled in many parts of China. As new ideas permeate the empire, I

have no doubt the women of China will not be greater slaves to

undesirable fashions or customs than are the women of other lands. The

greater number of the ills and discomforts of Chinese women, I cannot

help thinking, must be eradicated by the people of China themselves;

all that outsiders can do is to place the means of doing so within

their reach. As year by year the number increases of cultivated and

enlightened Chinese ladies, trained in Western science and modes of

thought, while retaining their own distinctive characteristics, so

will each of them prove a stronger centre from which rays of good

influence will reach out to their country-women. I was once given a

flower that had rather a remarkable history. I was told that somewhere

in Greece a mine had been found that was supposed to have been worked

by the ancient Greeks. Its site was marked by great heaps of rocks and

refuse. The Greeks of old, great as was their genius, which in some

ways exceeded that of modern days, were not acquainted with a great

deal that science has revealed to us, and in examining these heaps of

stones and rubbish flung out of the mine in days of old, it was found

that most of it contained ore, the presence of which had never before

been suspected, but which was sufficient in amount to make it worth

while submitting the refuse to a process that would extract the latent

wealth. So the great heaps of stone were removed, for smelting or some

such process, and when they were taken away, from the ground beneath

them sprang up plants, which in due time were covered with beautiful

small yellow poppies of a kind not previously known to gardeners. It

is supposed that the seed of the flowers must have lain hidden in the

earth for centuries. May it not be like this with China? In her bosom

have long lain dormant the seeds of what we call progress, which have

been kept from germinating by the superincumbent weight of ideas,

which, while they may contain in themselves some ore worth extracting,

must be refined in order to be preserved, and must be uplifted in

order to enable the flowers of truth, purity, and happiness to

flourish in the land. Two of the heaviest rubbish heaps that crush

down the blossom progress are ignorance and prejudice. I trust that

the conference just held may prove of use in removing them."

[Illustration]

Whatever may be thought of the relative prudence of choosing one's own

wife, or having the young lady provided by family diplomacy, as is the

Eastern custom, there is no doubt that Chinese women make affectionate

wives and mothers. A forlorn woman at Macao, day after day wailing

along the shore of the cruel sea that had taken her fisher-husband,

waving his coat over the sea, burning incense, and calling upon him

unceasingly to return to her, was a mournful sight; and I have seen

distracted women passing the clothes of their sick children to and fro

over a brisk fire by a running stream, and calling upon the gods they

worshipped to circumvent the demons to whose evil action all sickness

is attributed. Indeed, the loss of the husband himself would, in the

average Chinese opinion, be better for the family than the loss of an

only son, as without a male descendant the ancestral worship, on which

so much depends for the comfort of the departed members, cannot be

carried out in proper form. That the terrors of superstition enter

largely into the Chinese mind is clearly shown, but there is also

present the saving grace of faith in the possibility of assuaging

whatever may be considered the discomforts of the after life, and

Chinese are particular in ministering to the wants of the departed. I

have seen in Hong Kong two women gravely carrying a small house,

tables, chairs, and a horse, all made of tissue paper and light

bamboo, to a vacant place where they were reverently burnt, no doubt

for the use of a departed husband. This is the same faith that raised

the mounds over the Scandinavian heroes, who with their boats or

war-horses and their arms were buried beneath them.

When a child is born, a boat made similarly of tissue paper and fixed

on a small bundle of straw is launched upon the tide. If it floats

away, all will be well; if flung back upon the shore, there is gloom

in the house, for Fortune is frowning. Or, when members of the family

are lost at sea, similar boats with small figures seated in them, and

with squares of gold and silver paper representing money placed at

their feet, are sent adrift. Such boats are constantly to be seen

floating in the harbour of Hong Kong, each one a sad emblem of

poignant sorrow, with that desperate anxiety of those bereft to reach

behind the veil that lies in the sub-conscious mind of all humanity.

[Illustration]

This is the mournful aspect of Chinese life, especially among the

poorer classes. But Chinese ladies, though they take their pleasures

in a different manner, are no less actively engaged in the amenities

of social intercourse than are their Western sisters. Violent

physical exercise does not appeal to them--our compelling muscularity

is a hidden mystery to all Eastern people--but visiting among

themselves is constant, and the preparation for a visit, the powdering

and painting, the hair-dressing, and the careful selection of

embroidered costumes, is as absorbing a business as was the

preparation of the belles of the court of _Le Roi Soleil_. To the

European man the fashion of a Chinese lady's dress seems unchanging--a

beautifully embroidered loose jacket, with long pleated skirt and wide

trousers, in strong crimson or yellow, or in delicate shades of all

colours--but Western women probably know better, as doubtless do the

Chinese husbands and fathers, who are usually most generous to the

ladies of the family. The general shape is unchanging, for in China it

is considered indelicate for a woman to display her figure; but the

Chinese milliner is as careful to change the fashion of the embroidery

at short intervals as is the French _modiste_ to change the form of

the robe. Therefore there are always to be procured in the great towns

beautiful embroidered costumes in excellent order that have been

discarded at the command of tyrant fashion as are the dresses of the

fashion-driven ladies of the West.

[Illustration]

The etiquette of the preliminaries of a visit is as rigid as is the

etiquette of all social intercourse in China; the scarlet visiting

card, three or four inches wide and sometimes a foot long--its

dimensions being proportioned to the social position of the

visitor--being first sent in, and returned with an invitation to

enter, while the hostess dons her best attire and meets the visitor at

the first, second, or third doorway, according to the rank of the

latter, and the elaborate ceremonial on entering the room. These

accomplished, the conversation follows the lines that conversation

takes where ladies meet ladies all the world over. The friendly pipe

is not excluded, and probably books, children, cooks, social

incidents, and possibly local politics, form the media of

conversation. The social customs of China do not afford much

opportunity for scandal; but who can say? Cupid even in China is as

ingenious as he is mischievous. Games, too, are indulged in, the

Chinese card games being as mysteriously intricate as is their chess.

Should the guest bring her children, the little ones all receive

presents, these delicate attentions being never neglected; indeed, the

giving of presents at the New Year and other annual festivals is a

settled Chinese custom.

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