CHAPTER I

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CHINA

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[Illustration: A SHOEMAKER]

CHINA

by

MORTIMER MENPES

Text by

SIR HENRY ARTHUR BLAKE, G.C.M.G.

London

Adam and Charles Black

1909

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I

PAGE

Description of China; Her Early History; Tartar Garrisons;

Chinese Soldiers; Family Life; Power of Parents; Foot-Binding 1

CHAPTER II

Marriage Customs; Ancestral Halls; Official Hierarchy;

Competitive Examinations; Taxation; Punishments; Torture;

Story of Circumstantial Evidence 15

CHAPTER III

Gradations of Chinese Society; Agriculture; _Fung Sui_;

Pawn Offices; River Boats and Junks; The Bore at Haining;

Fishing Industry; Piracy on Rivers; Li Hung Chang; The

West River; Temples of the Seven Star Hills; Howlick 33

CHAPTER IV

The Yangtze; Opium; Conclusions of Singapore Commission;

British and German Trade in the Far East; Town and Country

Life; Chinese Cities; Peking; Temple of Agriculture;

Spring Ceremony of Ploughing by the Emperor and his Court 56

CHAPTER V

Peasant Cultivators; Religious Beliefs; Theatricals; Famine;

Life in Coast Cities; Canton; Guild-Houses; Beggar Guild;

Official Reception by Viceroy; Chinese Writing; Life of

an Official 72

CHAPTER VI

Houses of Wealthy Inhabitants; Flower-Boats; Reform

Movement among Chinese Women; Shanghai Women's

Convention; Women's Superstitions; Chinese Ladies;

Fashions; Visiting 100

CHAPTER VII

General Description of Hong Kong; Happy Valley; Peak

District; Night View of Harbour; Typhoon; Energy of

Survivors; The Streets; Early Morning Life of the City;

Chinese Workmen; The Barber; The Sawyer; The Stonecutter;

The Coolie; Gambling; Some Street Games 111

CHAPTER VIII

Dragon-Boat Races; Festival at Macao; New Year; New

Year Customs; Hong Kong Races; Curious Forms of

Gambling; Charitable Institutions of Hong Kong; The

Future of China 126

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

BY MORTIMER MENPES, R.I., R.E.

1. A SHOEMAKER _Frontispiece_

FACING PAGE

2. A QUIET CANAL 8

3. A STUDENT 17

4. SAMPANS 24

5. CHOPSTICKS 33

6. ON THE WAY TO MARKET 40

7. A GRANDFATHER 49

8. A SUMMER HOUSE 56

9. A QUIET GAME OF DRAUGHTS 65

10. WAITING FOR CUSTOMERS 72

11. A CHINESE GIRL 89

12. JUNKS AT EVENTIDE 96

13. A TYPICAL STREET SCENE 105

14. A STREET STALL 112

15. ON A BACKWATER 121

16. A TEMPLE 128

Also 64 Facsimile Reproductions in Black and White

_These Illustrations were Engraved and Printed by the

Menpes Printing Company, Ltd., Watford, under the personal

supervision of Miss Maud Menpes_

CHINA

[Illustration]

CHAPTER I

In attempting even a slight sketch of China, its physical features, or

some of the manners and customs of the various peoples whom we

designate broadly as the Chinese, the writer is confronted with the

difficulty of its immensity. The continuous territory in Asia over

which China rules or exercises a suzerainty is over 4,200,000 square

miles, but China Proper, excluding Manchuria, Mongolia, Tibet, and

Turkestan, consists of eighteen provinces, covering an area of

1,530,000 square miles, with a population of about 410,000,000, or

about twelve and a half times the area of the United Kingdom, and ten

times its population.

This area is bounded on the west by southern spurs from the giant

mountain regions of Eastern Tibet, that stretch their long arms in

parallel ranges through Burma and Western Yunnan, and whose snow-clad

crests send forth the great rivers Salween and Mekong to the south,

the Yangtze and Yellow Rivers to the east, to fertilize the most

productive regions on the surface of the globe.

It is this conformation that has so far presented an insurmountable

barrier to the construction of a railway from Bhamo in Burmese

territory to the high plateau of Yunnan, from whence the province of

Szechwan, richest of all the eighteen provinces in agricultural and

mineral wealth, could be reached. Some day the coal, iron, gold, oil,

and salt of Szechwan will be exploited, and future generations may

find in the millionaires of Szechwan Chinese speculators as able and

far-seeing as the financial magnates who now practically control the

destinies of millions in the Western world.

The portion south of the Yangtze is hilly rather than mountainous, and

the eastern portion north of that great river is a vast plain of rich

soil, through which the Yellow River, which from its periodical

inundations is called China's Sorrow, flows for over five hundred

miles.

In a country so vast, internal means of communication are of the first

importance, and here China enjoys natural facilities unequalled by any

area of similar extent. Three great rivers flow eastward and

southward--the Hoang-ho, or Yellow River, in the north, the Yangtze in

the centre, and the Pearl River, of which the West River is the

largest branch, in the south. The Yangtze alone with its affluents is

calculated to afford no less than 36,000 miles of waterways. The river

population of China comprises many millions, whose varied occupations

present some of the most interesting aspects of Chinese life.

The population of China is composed of different tribes or clans,

whose records date back to the dynasty of Fuh-hi, 2800 B.C. Sometimes

divided in separate kingdoms, sometimes united by waves of conquest,

the northern portion was welded into one empire by the conqueror,

Ghengis Khan, in A.D. 1234, and seventy years later the southern

portion was added by his son, Kublai Khan, who overthrew the Sung

dynasty. It was during his reign that China was visited by Marco Polo,

from the records of whose travels we find that even at that time the

financial system of the Far East was so far advanced that paper money

was used by the Chinese, while in the city of Cambaluc--the Peking of

to-day--Christian, Saracen, and Chinese astrologers consulted an

astrolabe to forecast the nature of the weather, thus anticipating the

meteorological bureaux of to-day.

[Illustration]

There are, however, still districts in the southern portion of China

where the aboriginal inhabitants have never accepted the position of

complete incorporation with the Chinese neighbours. In the mountain

district between the provinces of Kwangtung and Hunan a tribe exists

known as the Yu people, in whose territory no Chinese officials are

permitted to reside, nor do they allow strangers to enter their towns,

which are built on crags difficult of access and capable of offering a

stubborn resistance to attack. Their chief occupation is forestry, the

timber being cut during the winter and floated down the mountain

streams when in flood. Their customs are peculiar. Among them is the

vendetta, which is practised by the Yu alone of all the people in the

Far East. But no woman is ever injured; and even during the fiercest

fighting the women can continue their work in the fields with safety.

Their original home was in Yunnan and the western part of Kwangsi,

from whence they were driven out by the Chinese in the time of the

Sung dynasty. The Yu, Lolos, Miao-tse, Sy-fans, etc. (all Chinese

names expressive of contempt, like our "barbarians"), are stated by

Ma-tonan-lin and other Chinese historians to have been found

inhabiting the country when, six thousand years ago, it was occupied

by the ancestors of the Chinese, who came from the north-west. The

savage inhabitants were gradually driven into the hills, where their

descendants are still found. Their traditions point to their having

been cannibals. Intermarriage with the Chinese is very rare, the

Chinese regarding such a union as a _mésalliance_, and the aboriginal

peoples as a cowardly desertion to the enemy. The embroideries worked

by the women are different from those of the Chinese and, I am

informed, more resemble the embroideries now worked at Bethlehem. They

are worked on dark cloth in red, or sometimes red and yellow.

[Illustration]

After the time of Kublai Khan, succeeding centuries found the various

divisions of the Chinese again disunited, in accordance with a very

old Chinese proverb frequently heard at the present day, "Long united

we divide: long divided we unite"; but the final welding took place

under Shun-chi, who established the Tsing dynasty in 1644, and imposed

upon all Chinese people, as a permanent and evident mark of

subjection, the shaving of the front portion of the head and braiding

of the back hair into a queue after the Tartar fashion--an order at

first resented bitterly, but afterwards acquiesced in as an old

custom. To this day the removal of the queue and allowing the hair to

grow on the front portion of the head is regarded as a casting off of

allegiance to the dynasty. In the Taiping rebellion that raged in the

southern provinces from 1850 to 1867, and which down to its

suppression by Gordon and Li Hung Chang is computed to have cost the

lives of twenty-two and a half millions of people, the removal of the

queue and allowing the hair to grow freely was the symbol adopted by

the rebels.

To secure the empire against future risings, the Manchu conquerors

placed Tartar garrisons in every great city, where separate quarters

were allotted to them, and for two hundred and sixty years these

so-called Tartar soldiers and their families have been supported with

doles of rice. They were not allowed to trade, nor to intermarry with

the Chinese. The consequence was inevitable. They have become an idle

population in whom the qualities of the old virile Manchus have

deteriorated, and supply a large proportion of the elements of

disorder and violence. Of late, the prohibition against entering into

business and intermarrying with the Chinese has been removed, and they

will ultimately be absorbed into the general population.

From the point of view of a trained soldier these Tartar "troops" were

no more than armed rabble, with the most primitive ideas of military

movements; but in the north the exigencies of the situation have

compelled the adoption of Western drill, adding immensely to the

efficiency but sadly diminishing the picturesqueness of the

armies--for there is no homogeneous territorial army, each province

supplying its own independent force, the goodness or badness of which

depends upon the energy and ability of the viceroy.

The pay of a Chinese soldier is ostensibly about six dollars a month,

which would be quite sufficient for his support were it not reduced to

about half that amount by the squeezes of the officers and

non-commissioned officers through whose hands it passes. He receives

also one hundred pounds of rice, which is not always palatable, the

weight being made up by an admixture of sand and mud to replace the

"squeeze" by the various hands through which the rice tribute has

passed.

While under arms he is clothed in a short Chinese jacket of scarlet,

blue, or black, on the front and back of which are the name and symbol

of his regiment. The sleeves are wide and the arms have free play. The

shape of the hat varies in every corps, the small round Chinese hat

being sometimes worn, or a peakless cap, while some regiments wear

immense straw hats, which hang on the back except when the sun is

unduly hot. The trousers are dark blue of the usual Chinese pattern,

tied round the ankles. The costume is not unsoldierlike, and when in

mass the effect is strikingly picturesque; but it must not be inferred

that all the men on a large parade are drilled soldiers. An order to

the officer commanding to parade his corps for inspection not seldom

interferes seriously with the labour force of the day. He draws the

daily pay of, say, two thousand men, but his average muster may not

exceed three hundred. This is a kind of gambling with Fortune at which

China is disposed to wink as being merely a somewhat undue extension

of the principle of squeeze that is the warp and woof of every Chinese

employee, public or private. But he must not be found out; therefore

seventeen hundred coolies are collected by hook or by crook, and duly

attired in uniform, possibly being shown how to handle their rifles at

the salute. The muster over, the coolies return to their work, and the

arms and uniform are replaced in store until the next occasion.

[Illustration: A QUIET CANAL.]

[Illustration]

The officers are chosen from the better classes, except when a more

than usually ferocious robber is captured, when sometimes his supposed

bravery is utilized by giving him an army command. The young officers

undergo some kind of elementary training. In Canton it was until

lately the custom to have an annual examination of their proficiency

in riding and archery. In a field outside the city a curved trench

about five feet wide and two feet deep was cut for about two hundred

and fifty yards. At intervals of fifty yards were erected close to the

trench three pillars of soft material each six feet high by two feet

in diameter. Into each of these pillars the candidate, who was

mounted on a small pony and seated in a saddle to fall out of which

would require an active effort, was required to shoot an arrow as he

passed at a gallop. With bow ready strung and two spare arrows in his

girdle, he was started to gallop along the trench that was palpably

dug to prevent the ponies from swerving, as the reins were flung upon

his neck. As the candidate passed within two or three feet of the

pillar targets the feat would not appear to have been difficult. If

all three arrows were successfully planted the candidate was at the

end of the course received with applause, and his name favourably

noted by the mandarins, who sat in state in an open pavilion close by.

But this description would not at present apply to the northern

provinces, where some of the armies are apparently as well drilled,

armed, and turned out as European troops. That Chinese troops are not

wanting in bravery has been proved; and if properly led a Chinese

drilled army of to-day might prove as formidable as were the hosts of

Ghengis Khan, when in the thirteenth century they swept over Western

Asia and into Europe as far as Budapest.

[Illustration]

It has been stated that the empire has been welded together by its

conquerors, but perhaps it would be more correct to say that it

coheres by the almost universal acceptance of the ethics of

Confucius, whose wise precepts--delivered five hundred years before

the birth of Christ--inculcated all the cardinal virtues, and included

love and respect for parents; respect for the Prince; respect for and

obedience to superiors; respect for age, and courteous manners towards

all. He held that at their birth all men were by nature radically

good, but "as gems unwrought serve no useful end, so men untaught will

never know what right conduct is."

The bedrock upon which the stability of China has rested for over two

thousand years is the family life, the patriarchal system reaching

upwards in ever-widening circles, from the hut of the peasant to the

palace of the Sovereign. The house is ruled by the parents, the

village by the elders, after which the officials step in, and the

districts are governed by mandarins, whose rank of magistrate,

prefect, taotai, governor, or viceroy indicate the importance of the

areas over which they rule, each acting on principles settled by

ancient custom, but with wide latitude in the carrying out of details.

Nothing is more charming in respectable Chinese families than the

reverential respect of children for their parents, and this respect is

responded to by great affection for the children. It is a very pretty

sight to see a young child enter the room and gravely perform the

kotow to his father and mother. No young man would dare to eat or

drink in the presence of his father or mother until invited to do so.

Among the princely families the etiquette is so rigid that if a son is

addressed by his father while at table he must stand up before

answering.

It is sometimes assumed that the custom of wealthy Chinese having two,

three, or more "wives" must lead to much confusion in questions of

inheritance, but there is no real difficulty in the matter, for

although the custom allows the legalized connection with a plurality

of wives, there is really but one legal wife acknowledged as being the

head of the house. She is called the kit-fat, or first wife, and

though she may be childless all the children born of the other "wives"

are considered as being hers, and to her alone do the children pay the

reverence due to a parent, their own mothers being considered as being

in the position of aunts. Strange though it may appear to Western

ideas, this position seems to be accepted by the associated wives with

equanimity. The custom probably originated in the acknowledged

necessity to have a son or sons to carry on the worship at the family

ancestral hall, where the tablets of deceased members are preserved.

Sometimes instead of taking to himself a plurality of wives a man

adopts a son, who is thenceforth in the position of eldest son, and

cannot be displaced, even though a wife should afterwards bear a son.

A daughter is on a different plane. She is not supposed to be capable

of carrying out the family worship, and cannot perpetuate the family

name. A daughter, too, means a dower in days to come, so sometimes a

father determines, if he has already a daughter, that no more shall be

permitted to live. This determination is always taken before the birth

of the infant daughter, the child in that case being immersed in a

bucket of water at the instant of its birth, so that from the Chinese

point of view it has never existed; but female children who have

practically begun a separate existence are never destroyed. In such

cases the father is quite as fond of the daughter as of the sons, and

in families where tutors are engaged the girls pursue their studies

with their brothers.

[Illustration]

The power of the parents is practically unlimited, extending even to

life or death. A mother might kill her son without fear of legal

punishment, but if, in defending himself, he killed his parent, he

would be put to death by the lin-chi--or death by a thousand cuts--a

horrible punishment reserved for traitors, parricides, or husband

murderers. Indeed, while theoretically the woman is in China

considered inferior, the kit-fat, or principal wife, is really the

controller of the family, including the wives of her sons. She rules

the household with a rod of iron, and has considerable, if not a

paramount, influence in the conduct of the family affairs. The wife of

an official is entitled to wear the ornaments and insignia of her

husband's rank, and in the Imperial Palace the Dowager-Empress of the

day is probably the most important personage in the empire after the

Emperor.

[Illustration]

In a Hong Kong paper a short time ago there appeared a paragraph

reciting that a wealthy young Chinese, whose mother controlled a large

business in Canton, had been spending the money of the firm too

lavishly, the attraction of motor-cars and other vehicles of

extravagance being too powerful for him. After various endeavours to

control him, the mother at length prepared chains and fetters, and had

him locked up. He, however, escaped, and the irate mother announced

her intention to exercise her maternal rights on his return by cutting

the tendons of his ankles and thus crippling him. The account

proceeded to say that this treatment is often resorted to by irate

parents with prodigal sons.

The most incomprehensible custom among Chinese women of family is that

of foot-binding, which is generally begun at the age of three or four,

the process being very slow. Gradually the toes, other than the great

toe, are forced back under the sole, so that when the operation is

complete the girl is only able to hobble about on the great toes. When

a Chinese lady goes out, not using her sedan chair, she is either

carried by a female slave pick-a-back, or walks supported on either

side by two female attendants. Nevertheless, Chinese women of the

humbler classes are sometimes to be seen working in the fields with

bound feet. Why their mothers should have inflicted the torture upon

them, or why, when they had come to years of discretion, they did not

attempt to gradually unbind their feet, seems incomprehensible. The

explanation is that not alone would the unbinding inflict as much

torture, but slaves and their descendants are not permitted to bind

the feet; the deformity is therefore a badge of a free and reputable

family, and a girl with bound feet has a better prospect of being well

married than her more comfortable and capable sister, upon whom no

burden of artificial deformity has been placed. The origin of the

custom is lost in the mists of antiquity. One would imagine that the

example of the Imperial family ought to have had an effect in changing

it, for the Manchu ladies do not bind their feet; but though several

edicts have been issued forbidding it, the custom still continues. To

Western eyes, bound feet are as great a deformity as is the

tight-lacing of European ladies to the Chinese; but physically the

former is much less injurious than the latter, which not alone deforms

the skeleton, but displaces almost every one of the internal organs.

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