Tuln.--Langenlebern.--Greifenstein.--Story of Etelina.--Korneuburg.--
The Bisamberg.--Kloster Neuburg.--Leopoldsberg, and the Khalenberg.--
A glimpse of the capital.--Nusdorf.--Arrival at Vienna.--Bird’s-eye
view and description of the environs from the Temple of Glory in the
Brühl.
The chronicler Hagen says, that before Vienna was built, Tuln was
the capital of Austria. There is no doubt it was a place of some
consequence even in the time of the Romans. In the year 1813, a great
number of silver coins of the reigns of Vespasian, Domitian, Nerva,
and Trajan, were found in its neighbourhood. Attila is said to have
experienced a defeat here, and upwards of forty thousand Huns in one
battle to have found “the way to dusty death.” Its authentic history
commences, however, in the reign of Charlemagne, who gave the place
to Passau in 803. Under the successors of Charlemagne, Tuln was the
residence of their Grenz-Grafen, or Counts of the Border; and in 985,
Henry II, Duke of Bavaria, held a Landtag or Assembly of the States
at Tuln, at which the Duke of Carinthia, the Pfalzgraf Berchtold,
the Markgraf of Austria, and the Counts of Bavaria, appeared, and
decided the claim of the Bishop of Passau to a linn-fishery in the
neighbourhood. The Hungarians, in the winter of 1042, surprised and
burnt the town, but were, by the Markgraves Albert and Gottfried,
repulsed and pursued over the Leytna; and the whole tract of country
between Khalenberg and that river, was wrested from them for ever. In
1592, Tuln became the asylum of those who fled before the triumphant
Botskai, on whose head the minister of Achmet had placed the ancient
diadem of the despots of Servia, and who, though he refused the
proffered titles of King of Hungary and Prince of Transylvania,
terrified the feeble Emperor Rodolph by planting the victorious
standards of those revolted provinces within sight of the walls of
Presburg.
In 1683, the celebrated Sobieski joined, with his twenty-six thousand
Poles, the troops collected here for the relief of Vienna, then
invested by the Turks under Kara Mustapha. The Emperor Leopold, driven
to despair, wrote himself to the King of Poland, imploring him to
hasten to his assistance, without waiting for his army. “My troops,”
said he, “are now assembling. The bridge over the Danube is already
constructed at Tuln, to afford you a passage. Place yourself at their
head, however inferior in number; your name alone, so terrible to the
enemy, will ensure a victory!” Sobieski, flattered by this entreaty,
issued orders to his army to follow him; and, at the head of thirty-one
thousand horse, traversed Silesia and Moravia with the rapidity of a
Tartar horde, but, on his arrival at Tuln, found the bridge unfinished,
and no troops, except a corps under the Duke of Lorraine. “Does the
Emperor consider me as an adventurer?” exclaimed the disappointed
monarch. “I quitted my army to command his. It is not for myself, but
for him, that I fight.” Pacified, however, by the representations of
the Duke of Lorraine, he awaited the arrival of his own army, which
reached the Danube on the 5th of September, and the junction of the
German succours was completed on the 7th. Eight thousand Swabians
and Franconians, twenty thousand Saxons and Bavarians, led by their
Electors, swelled the allied German army to the number of sixty
thousand men. On the night of the 11th, the preconcerted signals
revived the spirits of the garrison and citizens of Vienna; and,
on the morning of the memorable 12th of September, they descried,
with rapture, the Christian standards floating on the summit of the
Khalenberg!
To the romantic traveller, Tuln is endeared as the spot where the
mighty Etzel met his matchless bride. Four and twenty princes were in
the train of this powerful monarch, and twelve of the noblest received
the priceless guerdon of a kiss from the lips of Chrimhilt. Lances were
shivered, and harps were swept, in honour of the day. A thousand marks
rewarded the royal minstrels, Swemmel and Werbel, and the largess, to
herald and serf, was worthy the hand of the richest and most powerful
sovereign
“From the Rhone unto the Rhine--from the Elbe unto the sea.”
With spirits elevated by a morning of unequalled beauty, and hearts
throbbing with expectation, as every dip of the oar brought us nearer
and nearer to the Austrian capital, the spires of which, we fondly
imagined, would rise to our view at each new bend of the river, we
floated down the broad and glittering stream, now clear of islands, and
hurrying to bathe the craggy feet of the advancing Wiener-Wald.
Passing the long straggling village of Langenlebern, or, as it is
otherwise called, Ober and Unter Aigen, where there was formerly
a considerable establishment of gold-washers, (the waves of the
Danube, like those of Pactolus, rolling sands rich with grains of
the precious metal,) the splendour of sunrise appeared to change the
whole flood into molten ore, and realize the wildest dreams of those
modern Chrysorrohæ[82]. Below Langenlebern, on the right bank, is
the ancient village of Zeiselmauer, (supposed to be the Cetia of the
Romans,) and celebrated as the birth-place of our old acquaintance,
St. Florian. Here, in 1092, the rebel Bishop of Passau, Altmann, died,
as I have before mentioned, in exile. We now rapidly approached the
Riederberge, or mountains of the Wiener-Wald, as the forest-covered
hills, that here overlook the Danube and Vienna, are indifferently
called. Fragments of this rocky chain now lined the right bank of the
river, which, for the first time since our leaving Ratisbon, surpassed
the left in boldness and beauty. On one of these fragments rose the
ruin of Greifenstein, one of the oldest castles in Austria, now the
property of Prince Lichtenstein, who, having a great fancy for ruins,
expends considerable sums in keeping up such as yet stand upon his
estates, and in building new ruins, where there is a deficiency of
old. In the Priel, or Brühl, near Vienna, are several of these modern
antiques, on which the venerable pile of the old family castle of
Lichtenstein looks down, with as much contempt, as a resuscitated
Norman crusader would upon his tinsel-clad theatrical representatives.
Greifenstein was last ruined by the Swedes in 1645, and is one of the
castles named as having been the prison of Richard Cœur de Lion; nay,
they even show an iron cage here, in which he is said to have been
cooped. The ruins are reported to be haunted by an old white woman, and
a legion of
“Black spirits and white,
Red spirits and grey,”
who do her awful bidding. This tradition has probably arisen from the
circumstance of its last inhabitant having been an ancient gentlewoman,
the Lady Bountiful of the neighbourhood, who devoted all her time
to the cure of disorders, and was so generally successful in the
treatment of her numerous patients, that she was at length suspected
of possessing supernatural power. At her death, therefore, instead
of canonizing her, as in duty bound, the ungrateful peasantry have
converted the kind-hearted old lady, who was certainly “a spirit of
health,” into “a goblin damned;” and they are less excusable, as the
castle is not in want of such an attraction, the _terrein_ being
already occupied by as romantic a spectre as ever revisited “the
glimpses of the moon, making night hideous!” The legend indeed attached
to those venerable walls, is one of the most interesting on the Danube,
and I cannot account for its omission by the diligent Schultes. Thus it
runs:--
As early as the eleventh century the Lords of Greifenstein were famed
and feared throughout Germany. One of the first knights who bore that
name, lost his lady soon after she had presented him with a daughter,
who received the name of Etelina. The dying mother, painfully aware
how little attention would be paid to the education of a female by
a rude and reckless father, half knight, half freebooter, however
fond he might be of his child, had recommended her infant, with her
last breath, to the care of a kind and pious monk, the chaplain of
the castle; and under his affectionate guidance, the pretty playful
girl gradually ripened into the beautiful and accomplished woman. Sir
Reinhard of Greifenstein, though stern, turbulent, and unlettered
himself, was, nevertheless, sensible to the charms and intelligence of
his daughter; and often as he parted her fair hair and kissed her ivory
forehead, before he mounted the steed or entered the bark, that waited
to bear him to the hunt or the battle, a feeling of which he was both
proud and ashamed would moisten his eye and subdue a voice naturally
harsh and grating, into a tone almost of tenderness. On his return,
weary and sullen, from a fruitless chase or a baffled enterprise, the
song of Etelina could banish the frown from his brow, when even the
wine-cup had been thrust untasted away, and the favourite hound beaten
for a mistimed gambol. So fair a flower, even in the solitary castle
of Greifenstein, was not likely to bloom unknown or unsought. The fame
of Etelina’s beauty spread throughout the land. Many a noble knight
shouted her name as his bright sword flashed from the scabbard, and
many a gentle squire fought less for his gilt spurs, than the smile of
Etelina. The minstrel who sang her praises had aye the richest largess,
and the little-foot page who could tell where she might be met with
in the summer’s twilight, clinging to the arm of the silver-haired
chaplain, might reckon on a link of his master’s chain of gold for
every word he uttered. But the powerful and the wealthy sighed at
her feet in vain--she did not scorn them, for so harsh a feeling was
unknown to the gentle Etelina. Nay, she even wept over the blighted
hopes of some, whose fervent passion deserved a better fate; but her
heart was no longer hers to give. She had fixed her affections upon the
poor but noble Rudolph, and the lovers awaited impatiently some turn of
fortune which would enable them to proclaim their attachment without
fear of the anger and opposition of Sir Reinhard, who was considerably
annoyed by Etelina’s rejection of many of the richest Counts and Barons
of Germany.
Business of importance summoned the old knight to the court of the
Emperor. His absence, prolonged from month to month, afforded frequent
opportunities of meeting to the lovers; and the venerable monk, on whom
the entire charge of the castle and its inhabitants had devolved at
Sir Reinhard’s departure, was one evening struck dumb with terror, by
the confession which circumstances at length extorted from the lips of
Etelina! Recovered from the first shock, however, his affection for his
darling pupil seemed only increased, by the peril into which passion
had plunged her. In the chapel of the castle, he secretly bestowed
the nuptial benediction upon the imprudent pair, and counselled their
immediate flight and concealment, till his prayers and tears should
wring forgiveness and consent from Sir Reinhard, who was now on
his return home, accompanied by a wealthy nobleman, on whom he had
determined to bestow the hand of his daughter. Scarcely had Rudolph and
Etelina reached the cavern in the neighbouring wilderness, selected
for their retreat by the devoted old man, who had furnished them with
provisions, a lamp and some oil, promising to supply them from time
to time with the means of existence, as occasions should present
themselves, when the rocks of the Danube rang with the well-known blast
of Sir Reinhard’s trumpet, and a broad banner lazily unfolding itself
to the morning breeze, displayed to the sight of the wakeful warden the
two red griffins rampant in a field vert, the blazon of the far-feared
Lords of Greifenstein[83]. In a few moments the old knight was galloping
over the drawbridge, followed by his intended son-in-law.
The clatter of their horses’ hoofs struck upon the heart of the
conscious chaplain, as though the amimals themselves were trampling on
his bosom; but he summoned up his resolution, and relying on his sacred
character, met his master with a firm step and a calm eye, in the
hall of the castle. Evading a direct answer to the first inquiry for
Etelina, he gradually and cautiously informed Sir Reinhard of her love,
her marriage, and her flight. Astonishment for a short space held the
old warrior spell bound, but when his gathered fury at last found vent,
the wrath of the whirlwind was less terrible. He seized the poor old
monk by the throat, and upon his firm refusal to reveal the retreat of
the culprits, dashed him to the earth, had him bound hand and foot, and
flung into a pit beneath an iron grating in the floor of the donjon or
keep of the castle[84]. Tearing, like an infuriated Pasha, “his very
beard for ire,” he called down curses on Etelina and her husband, and
prayed that, if ever he forgave them, a dreadful and sudden death might
overtake him on the spot where he should revoke the malediction he now
uttered! Upwards of a year had elapsed when, one winter-day, the knight
of Greifenstein, pursuing the chase, lost his way in the mazes of a
wilderness on the banks of the Danube. A savage-looking being, half
clothed in skins, conducted him to a cavern, in which a woman similarly
attired was seated on the ground, with an infant on her knees, and
greedily gnawing the bones of a wolf.--Sir Reinhard recognised in the
squalid form before him his once beautiful Etelina.--Shocked to the
soul at the sight of the misery to which his severity had reduced her,
he silently motioned to the huntsmen, who came straggling in upon
his track to remove the wretched pair and their poor little offspring
to the castle. Moved by the smiles of his innocent and unconscious
grandchild, he clasped his repentant daughter to his bosom, as she
re-crossed the threshold, bore her up into the banquet-hall, and
consigning her to the arms of her faithful Rudolph, hastened down
again to release with his own hands the true-hearted monk, who still
languished in captivity. In descending the steep staircase, his
foot slipped, and he was precipitated to the bottom--his fall was
unseen--his cry was unheard--dying, he dragged himself a few paces
along the pavement, and expired upon the very spot where he had just
embraced and forgiven his daughter. Rudolph, now Lord of Greifenstein,
restored the chaplain to liberty, and lived long and happily with his
beloved Etelina; but the spirit of Sir Reinhard to this day wanders
about the ruins of his ancestral castle, and will continue so to do
till the stone whereon he expired shall be worn in twain. “Alas! poor
ghost!” the very slight hollow which is at present perceivable in it,
affords you little hope of its division by fair means previously to
the general “_crack_ of doom.”
Near the village of Höfelein, the river suddenly wheels to the south,
and the last grand picture of the series opens before you. On the left
is the little town of Korneuburg, backed by the vine-covered Bisamberg,
and embosomed in beautiful groves and orchards. On the right, arise
the gilded domes of Kloster-Neuburg, and far above them, in the blue
distance, tower the colossal Khalenberge, “the watchmen of Vienna,”
crowned with their churches, and terminating a chain of alps and
mountains, that, stretching across Southern Europe, links the Danube
with the Gulph of Genoa. There was something peculiarly exciting in
the scene. I was floating upon waves that were rushing to the Euxine,
and gazing upon a line of hills that extended to the Mediterranean.
I could almost fancy the clash of Turkish cymbals, mingled with the
murmur of the water, while the sound of mandolin and castagnet was
faintly wafted on the breeze from the land. The former flight may, at
least, be forgiven me in such a situation; for these shores have but
too often echoed the wild marches of the Ottoman, and the trembling
waves reflected the glittering crescent. The black horse-tails of many
a proud Pasha have streamed insultingly from yonder heights, the sable
heralds of death and desolation. The “high-capped Tartar” has here
“spurred his steed away,” and the shout of
“God and the Prophet!--Allah hu!”
shaken like an earthquake the throne of the Cæsars.
Korneuburg is the seat of the Kreis-amtes for the quarter of
Unter-Manhardsberg. In 1306, it was the scene of one of those horrid
massacres, which invariably, during the middle ages, cancelled the
debts of Christendom to the House of Israel. The same blasphemous
falsehood, which thirty years afterwards deluged the streets of
Deggendorf with Hebrew blood, was here made the pretence for burning
alive all the unfortunate Jews in the place. The Emperor Frederick
IV. here met his deliverer, George Podiebrad, King of Bohemia, A.D.
1462, whose prompt assistance compelled Albert of Austria, the
Emperor’s brother, to raise the siege of Vienna, (in the citadel of
which Frederick was shut up with only two hundred men,) to restore
the towns, fortresses and countries he had taken possession of during
this unnatural contest, and pay an annual sum of four thousand
ducats to the Emperor for the government of Lower Austria. In 1477,
Korneuburg was besieged by Matthias Corvinus; and the brave Austrian
commandant, Enenkel, received his death-wound from an arrow that
entered an embrasure through which he was reconnoitring the enemy. It
was again besieged by Corvinus in 1484, and stood out till the very
vermin of the town became the food of the famished garrison; and in
the seventeenth century, the Swedes, who had taken and shut themselves
up in the place, after an equally stubborn resistance, capitulated
upon honourable terms. On the Bisamberg, which rises behind it, are
the finest vineyards in the neighbourhood of Vienna. The wine they
yield is considered the best of what are called the Danube wines; the
next in celebrity are Kloster-Neuburger, Grinzinger, (a very pleasant
wine,) Maurer, and Brunner, all grown on the right bank. On the summit
of the Bisamberg, formerly stood the old castle of the knights of
Pucinperche, or Busenberge, and near it rises the little Büsenbach,
that ripples through three channels into the Danube. At its foot is
Lang-Enzersdorf, the first post station from Vienna on the road to
Prague. Part of Kara-Mustapha’s army crossed the Danube here during the
siege of Vienna, and reduced the place to ashes. Nearly opposite to
Lang-Enzersdorf, stands the unfinished but magnificent Kloster-Neuburg,
and the little town to which it has given its name[85]. The Kloster was
originally founded by Leopold the Saint, in consequence of his wife’s
veil, which had been blown away as she was walking on the Khalenberg,
being wafted to this spot, and discovered some time after, hanging
on an elder-tree, by one of the Markgraf’s hounds!--So miraculous
and interesting an occurrence was deemed worthy of commemoration. A
convent was immediately built and endowed by the pious Markgraf; and
the monks enshrined the elder-tree in gold wire-work, and imitated its
blossoms with pearls[86]. Our boat now passed under the precipices of
the Leopoldsberg. The two last mountains of the Wiener-Wald have both
received the appellation of Khalenberg or Kalte-Berg. But the ancient
Khalenberg is now known by the name of the Leopoldsberg, and by the
Khalenberg is generally understood the former: Josephsberg, the second
mountain from the bank of the Danube.
On the summit of the present Leopoldsberg, originally stood the Castle
of Leopold the Saint; and from that castle, long before Vienna was
built, the Markgraf issued to hunt in the neighbouring forests, and
sometimes pursued his game over the plain whereon the capital of
Austria now spreads its interminable suburbs. In 1291, Albert I., Duke
of Austria, sought refuge in this fortress from the revolted citizens
of Vienna; and summoning reinforcements from Swabia, cut off all
aid and provisions from the rebels, and compelled them at last to an
unconditional surrender. The principal magistrates came bare-headed and
bare-footed, to his camp, and in their presence he tore up the charters
of the city, and abrogated all those privileges which he deemed
injurious to his authority. During the reign of Albert III., the castle
fell into decay, and lay in ruins nearly fifty years, when it was
rebuilt by Albert V. Ruined again by the wars of the fifteenth century,
the Emperor Leopold I. determined to erect upon its site a chapel,
in honour of his ancestor and patron. Before the work was completed,
however, the Turks had burst into Austria, and during the siege of
Vienna, destroyed the unfinished chapel as well as the few remaining
walls of the old castle. The Saxons, who fought in the left wing of
the army of relief, carried the Turkish positions on this mountain by
storm, and drove them with much slaughter out of the ruins in which
they had entrenched themselves. On the flight of the infidels, Leopold
recommenced building his chapel, but it was finished by his son Charles
VI., under the superintendence of the Italian architect Beluzzi, who
also built a palace near it by the Emperor’s order, and twelve years
afterwards erected the present church upon the site of the chapel.
The monks of Kloster-Neuburg, who had installed themselves in these
edifices, were afterwards expelled by Joseph II.[87], and the church
and palace became the property of Prince de Ligne, the historian. His
highness considerably improved the grounds about it, and it has become
a favourite resort of the Viennese, who flock up the mountain on a fine
summer day, to enjoy the magnificent prospect from its summit, or from
the little Belvedere that overhangs the Danube. On the outside of the
building in which the prince resided, are several inscriptions; amongst
others his favourite motto,
“Quo res cumque cadunt, semper stat linea recta;”
and the words
“Château de mon refuge.”
On the side facing the Danube are the following truly French lines, in
allusion to the various fortunes which have attended the building.
“Margraves, Polonais, Turcs et Saints, tour à tour,
Rendirent autrefois célèbre ce séjour;
C’est à présent celui de la philosophie,
Du calme de l’esprit, du bonheur de la vie.
Notre ame s’aggrandit par des grands souvenirs,
_Mais la meilleure histoire est celui des plaisirs_.
Sans remords, sans regrets, sans crainte et sans envie
La nature se montre en son bel appareil
Et l’on se croit ici favori du soleil.”
On the ceiling of the Belvedere is inscribed
“Optimis Vindobonensibus
Carolus Princeps de Ligne.”
On the Khalenberg, as the Josephsberg is now called, stands what was
formerly a monastery, founded by Ferdinand II. in 1628. Leopold I.
re-established it after the siege of Vienna; Joseph I. enlarged, and
Joseph II. suppressed it. Like the building on the Leopoldsberg, it was
purchased by the Prince de Ligne, and is a point of _réunion_ for the
holiday makers of the capital.
Below the Leopoldsberg, the Danube is divided into three large
branches, and on entering the southern branch the great dark spire of
St. Stephen’s suddenly appeared between the trees on the left bank,
and other spires and domes gliding gradually into view, we looked at
length upon Vienna! Impatiently did we pace the bank at Nussdorf, a
little village on the right of the stream, about an hour’s journey
from the walls of the city, where all boats are obliged to stop till
passports are examined, and permission given to proceed to what is
called the Schanzel landing-place, near the Ferdinand’s Brüche (Bridge
of Ferdinand.) Nearly an hour and a half were we detained at this
place, within sight of the goal we were burning to reach. The papers at
length arrived; our crew once more plied their paddles, and through the
crowd of boats moored on each side of the river, we advanced slowly,
catching occasional glimpses of new buildings and towers, as they
appeared between the tall stacks of firewood that line the banks of
this arm of the Danube. Suddenly we found ourselves under the walls
of the city, and about twenty minutes afterwards, having followed a
custom-house officer to the _mauth_ of the Schanzel, where our baggage
underwent strict examination, we entered the gates, the way to our
hotel being marshalled by a good-natured Italian, who had volunteered
his services at the custom-house. Previously, however, to quitting the
boat, the three poor women, whom we had taken on board at Marsbach,
perceiving their journey ended, requested to know what they had to
pay. On being, with some difficulty, made to understand that they were
perfectly welcome to their passage, their joy was extravagant. They
clapped their own hands, and kissed ours repeatedly, (the usual mode
of expressing thanks in Austria,) and with a chorus of “Das ist schön!
Das ist schön[88]!” shouldered their heavy bundles, and shuffled away in
high glee.
Preceded by our Italian guide, and followed by the two steersmen and
their crew carrying our luggage, we bustled through the crowded
streets of Vienna, and crossing the square, in the centre of which
stands the fine old cathedral of St. Stephen, entered the Weyburg
Gasse, and were soon comfortably installed in the Hotel of the
Kaiserinn von Osterreich (the Empress of Austria.) Gentle reader, I
have now landed you, with myself, safely in Vienna. Do not imagine,
because I have been, perhaps, tediously minute in my descriptions up to
this period, that I am about to enter upon a long-winded geographical,
statistical, historical account of “the habitation of the Cæsars.”
We are now upon beaten ground, and even presuming that you are
unacquainted with it, there are dozens of guides much better calculated
to do the honours and show the lions of Vienna than your humble servant.
I shall therefore take the liberty, before I make my final bow, and
hand you over to the acute Russel, the pleasant Ramblers in Germany,
either military or musical--the caustic author of ‘Austria as it is,’
or any other intelligent tourist--to waft you at once to the pinnacle
of a steep hill in that gorge of the Wienerwald called the Brühl or
the Priel, behind the very ancient and picturesque little town of
Möhdling. There you are--on the steps of the “Temple of Glory,” a
handsome Doric building erected by the present Prince Lichtenstein to
the memory of the brave hussars who rescued him, at the expense of
their lives, from the French in the battle of Wagram. On the wall of
a vault, beneath the building, where their bodies are deposited, is
the following affecting inscription:--“Softly repose upon this height,
precious remains of the valiant Austrian warriors, who fell, covered
with glory, at Aspern and Wagram. Your friend is not able to reanimate
the lifeless bodies. To honour them is his duty[89].”
As he turns from perusing these lines, as honourable to the dictator
of them as to the brave men to whom they allude, the moistened eye of
the stranger wanders over the immense prospect below him, and falls
upon the very scene of their valour and their death. Yonder stretches
the wide plain upon which the fate of Austria has been twice decided.
Rudolph of Hapsburg, the founder of its noble house, there wrested the
duchy and the crown: of the empire from Ottokar, king of Bohemia, on
August 26th, A.D. 1278.
On the 5th of July, five hundred and thirty-one years afterwards, the
descendant of Rudolph saw that duchy and crown at the mercy of an
adventurer, who had, for the second time, driven him from his capital,
and now threatened the utter extinction of his dynasty. There is the
celebrated island of Lobau, out of which, after its critical escape,
the French army crossed the Danube amid night and storm, by the
dreadful light of the blazing town of Enzersdorf, into the plain of
Morava, the destined arena of that decisive combat.
“All was prepared--the fire, the sword, the men
To wield them in their terrible array.
The army, like a lion from his den,
Marched forth with nerve and sinews bent to slay,--
A human Hydra, issuing from its fen
To breathe destruction on its winding way.
* * * * *
The night was dark, and the thick mist allowed
Nought to be seen save the artillery’s flame,
Which arched the horizon like a fiery cloud,
And in the Danube’s waters shone the same--
A mirrored Hell! The volleying roar, and loud
Long booming of each peal on peal, o’ercame
The ear far more than thunder, for Heaven’s flashes
Spare or smite rarely--Man’s make millions ashes!”
+Don Juan+, Canto 8, st. 2. 6.
There are the little villages of Essling, Aspern, and Wagram, whose
names, like those of the still more insignificant hamlets of Blenheim
and Waterloo, are ineffaceably inscribed on the tablets of Fame, though
scarcely to be distinguished in the map of Europe. Do you mark that
white building a little on this side of the city, looking, from the
height on which we stand, like the card-house of an infant? The sun now
falls upon something like a triumphal arch, on an elevation immediately
behind it--that is Schönbrunn, with its well-known Gloriette. In that
palace, is a fair-haired boy, the son of the victor in that terrible
fight, and of the daughter of the vanquished. To that fight he owes
his existence. Its issue enabled a low-born Corsican to dictate terms
to one of the most powerful monarchs in the world, and mingle his
blood with that of a line of emperors. Let us turn from these scenes
of strife and “vaulting ambition, which o’erleaps itself,” to the
forest-covered hills around, and the lovely vallies beneath us. At
the foot of that mountain lie the sulphur-baths of Baden, and beside
them opens the beautiful Helen-thal, at the mouth of which resides the
brave and popular Archduke Charles, the gallant, though unsuccessful,
opponent of Napoleon. His chateau is named Wildburg, in honour of
his Archduchess, a princess of the House of Nassau-Wildburg. There
is scarcely any garden-ground belonging to it, and he, therefore,
good-naturedly makes a garden of the whole valley, and gives the public
the benefit of it.
Every morning, during the season, the visiters of this fashionable
watering-place flock by dozens to a farm-house, belonging to the
Baron von Dopplehof, where they eat the best bread in Europe, and sip
coffee, diluted with most delicious milk, furnished by fifty Styrian
cows, all of that light dun colour which particularly distinguishes
the race. The day is divided between the bath and the shades of the
Helen-thal; and, as evening advances, the gay groups saunter back
along the banks of the rivulet that brawls through this romantic glen,
and drop leisurely into the pretty little theatre of Baden. Russel
has drawn an animated and faithful picture of this spot. I shall,
therefore, only mention a ridiculous circumstance which occurred here
a few years ago. The old wooden bridge over the rivulet I have just
mentioned, had been replaced by one of cast iron; and the completion
of this work being an important era for the little town, a procession
was formed to open the bridge, and the whole neighbourhood collected on
and round it to witness the ceremony. One of the Archdukes (Anthony,
I believe) headed the cortege, and, after it had passed over, the
burgomaster, standing in the centre of the bridge, harangued the
spectators. His speech was a model for succeeding burgomasters, to
fashion their orations by. The crowd pressed nearer and nearer to
listen, and be edified. The worthy officer warmed with his subject;
he became absolutely figurative. “Our gratitude, our attachment
(exclaimed he, in a transport of loyalty) to the illustrious House of
Hapsburg, shall remain firm and unshaken as this bridge!” but, before
he had well finished his sentence, down went bridge, burgomaster,
and audience, into the water. Whether naturally sinking under the
weight of the crowd, or kicked down by Lucifer himself, who, a rebel
from the first, might have enjoyed the consternation attendant on so
ominous a coincidence, remains to be determined. A clumsy bridge of
stone now spans the little stream of the Schwächat. To the left, almost
immediately beneath us, upon a green knoll, surrounded by gardens,
stands the venerable ruin of Lichtenstein, the castle of the ancient
princes of that name; and, facing it, the modern chateau of their
descendants. The old walls are in good preservation, and the various
apartments clearly distinguishable. The chamber of justice, into
which the criminal was drawn up by a rope from the prison beneath it,
through a hole in the floor; the prison itself, with its iron rings
and staples; and the banquet hall, now hung with full-length portraits
of the family, (none of them, by the way, painted earlier than the
sixteenth century, though some profess to represent persons who lived
in the fourteenth,) are all exceedingly interesting. Beyond it, on the
bank of the river, lies the broad city, the huge cathedral shooting
up its dark spire in the centre. From a grated window in that spire,
the faithful Starrhemberg saw the sun rise every morning upon that vast
plain, whitened with the tents of the Moslem, and watched night after
night for the joyful signals of relief. They rose at length. From those
heights, the gallant Sobieski rushed upon the panic-stricken Vizier,
who, abandoning his camp and his treasures to the victorious Pole,
fled like a tiger baffled in his spring. On the high road to Carinthia
and Italy, that runs parallel with this chain of mountains, you may
observe a slender Gothic cross, that is to say, one of those crocketted
pyramids, surmounted with a small cross, which are so called, and to be
seen in many of our own market towns. It is the Spinnerinn-am-Kreutz,
and, according to the legend, marks the spot on which a maiden vowed
to sit and spin till her lover returned from the holy land. Smile not
so contemptuously; if you are proof against “a ballad in print,” there
is also an historical interest attached to that lonely monument. It
commemorates the retreat of Solyman the Magnificent, and the valour of
an ancestor of the princely House of Schwartzenburg. For thirty days,
“Amid the vale below,
Tents rose, and streamers play’d,
And javelins sparkled in the sun,
And multitudes encamped,
Swarmed far as eye could follow o’er the plain;
There, in his war-pavilion, sat,
In council with his chiefs,
The Sultan of the Land!”
Foiled in every assault by the skill of the commandant, Nicholas
Count of Salm, by the courage of the garrison, and the loyalty of the
burghers, the advance of winter, and the dread of approaching succours,
compelled him to raise the siege, and to retreat to Buda, A.D. 1529.
Still farther eastward lies the little village of Laxendorf, with
the summer palace and gardens of Laxenburg, a favourite retreat of
the Emperor, and something between the well-known Petit-Trianon at
Versailles, and the grander Wilhelmshöe at Hessen-Cassel. Inferior to
them both in situation, it combines many of their separate attractions:
there are the rustic bridges, and Swiss cottages of the former, and
the modern antique castle of the latter. Instead of the splendid
waterworks of Wilhelmshöe, you must be contented, however, with the
calm, clear lakes of Laxendorf, in which myriads of enormous carp
battle for the large crusts flung to them by the guide, their scaly
armour glittering in the sun, like
“Mingled metal damasked o’er with gold.”
In the centre of one of these lakes rises an island fortress. At a
given signal a boat pushes off from the watergate, you are ferried
over, and enter the court-yard of the building, which is fitted
up in strict conformity to the taste of the middle ages. Like the
Lowenburg at Wilhelmshoe, all the furniture of this fortress is really
antique--the carved oaken ceilings and wainscots having been brought
from suppressed monasteries and demolished castles. The beds, chairs,
tables, etc., collected in a similar manner, are also extremely curious.
Around the skirting-board of one of the apartments on the ground floor,
is a most interesting painting of a procession to the lists, of the
time of Maximilian I., and resembling in some degree the prints of
his “Triumph” by Hans Burgmair. The heralds and pursuivants, habited
alternately in the colours of the empire and the duchy, are followed
by the Emperor himself, armed at all points for the tournament, and
twenty or thirty knights, riding in couples, their ponderous tilting
helmets crested and garlanded in the elaborate German fashion, and
their horses splendid with engraved chanfrons and emblazoned housings.
The procession is closed by the priest and the surgeon, and the
Todtwagen, or hearse to carry away the slain champions! A long narrow
gallery, on the highest floor of the building, hung with the costumes
of all the European nations during the sixteenth century, leads to a
dimly-lighted, unfurnished turret-chamber, the only ornaments of which
are three small half-length portraits of Phillip II. of Spain, his
queen Isabel, and his unfortunate son Don Carlos. The gloom of the
chamber, its desolate appearance, so opposite to that of the other
apartments, which are profusely decorated and furnished; the three
pale faces of the principal actors in that most dreadful of domestic
tragedies, glaring at one another from the opposite walls, send a cold
shudder through your frame; and you hasten from the spot, as though
murder had been freshly committed there, and the dark shadow of the
retiring assassin was yet gliding along the floor of the adjacent
gallery! The Knight’s Castle, as that building is called, has also its
state apartments; its chamber of justice; its prison with a puppet
prisoner, (the only piece of bad taste about it,[90]) and its armoury.
The latter contains some handsome fluted and embossed suits, but
nothing particularly ancient[91]; throughout Germany, the richest suit
of armour, whatever may be its date, is invariably appropriated to the
Emperor Maximilian, though in the same collection; and standing next to
it, is a suit which probably did belong to him, or, at least, is of the
same period. From the Knight’s Castle, you are led to the Knight’s
Chapel, his tilt-yard, and his farm; the upper apartments of the latter
are filled with ancient cabinets, paintings, and curiosities of every
description. Laxendorf is first mentioned by old Minnesänger Tanhuser,
who, having wandered from land to land, and from court to court, and
seen, as he himself informs us, Crete, Jerusalem, Cyprus, Normandy,
Antioch, Coblenz (!), Rome, and Pisa, came to Vienna during the reign
of the Emperor Frederick II., who highly patronized him, and gave him a
residence in the capital, and other property in its neighbourhood.
“Zu Wiene hat ich einen Hof
Der lag so rechte schöne;
Lupolzdorf was darzuo min
Das lit (liegt) bi _Luchse_ nahen;
Ze Hinperg hat ich schöne guot,” etc.
Laxendorf, lying close by Leopoldsdorf and Himperg, is evidently the
Luchse of our fortunate Minnesänger; and, towards the close of the
thirteenth century, we find the name of one Pertold, of Lachsindorf.
In 1330, Albert II., surnamed the Lame, Duke of Austria, possessed a
castle at Lachsindorf, and Duke Albert III., “with the tress,” built
a new castle upon the site of the old one, and had the magnificent
furniture and valuable antiquities which had previously adorned Saint
Leopold’s castle on the Khalenberg, removed to this place, which became
his favourite residence; where, shaking off as much as possible the
cares of sovereignty and secular pomp, he worked in the garden with his
own hands, and, studying Palladius on rural economy, amused himself
with planting and horticulture. Its marshy situation, however, is
supposed to have shortened the life of this amiable prince. Seized,
during an expedition into Bohemia, with a mortal disorder, of which
he had here laid the foundation, he was conveyed back in haste to
Laxendorf, and died on the 29th of August, 1395, aged forty-six, amid
the lamentations of the citizens of Vienna, who crowded round his
corse, exclaiming, “We have lost our friend, our true father!”
In 1683, the Turks laid Laxendorf in ashes. It was rebuilt by the
Emperor Leopold I.; and his son Charles IV., in his brown surtout and
bag-wig, here delighted to “bait the heron.” Joseph II. turned the
old blaue-haus[92], which was formerly the falconry, into the imperial
residence. The Gothic toy on the lake owes its existence to a whim of
the late Empress of Austria.
But the sun is fast descending behind us--his last rays are lighting
up the boundless prospect. Let me take advantage of them to point out
to you the only remaining object of interest in the picture: on that
gray conical hill, that, dimly looming on the verge of the horizon,
might almost be mistaken for a cloud, stands the castle of Presburg;
at its foot lies the capital of Hungary, and past it hurries the broad
Danube, widening, deepening, and strengthening, as it flows, wheeling
to the south round the walls of Buda, washing those of Belgrade, and
bearing the tributes of the Save, the Drave, the Teiss, and the Pruth,
through the swamps of Bess-Arabia into the dark Euxine. At the moment I
am speaking, the eyes of all Europe are bent in the same direction.
The cannon has been fired that may shake the peace of the world. The
flames that are kindling on the shores of the Black Sea may spread
to the mouths of the Mississippi. But I have neither the talent nor
the ambition to be a politician or a prophet; and so farewell, gentle
reader: the bugles of the peaceful herdsmen, saluting some returning
visiters of Baden, shall “sing truce” to our warlike speculations, for
“The night cloud has lower’d,
And sentinel stars set their watch in the sky.”
It is time to hurry down from the Temple of Glory, and return to the
gay city. Go lounge upon the bustling and brilliant Graben--gaze upon
the pyrotechnics of the Prater, or laugh in the little theatre of
Leopoldstadt--seek the Glacis, the Volksgarten, or the Opera. I leave
you with this conviction, that if I have only been fortunate enough to
induce you to descend the Danube to Vienna, there is little doubt of
obtaining your pardon for any failure in my attempt to amuse you on
your way.
FOOTNOTES (CHAPTER VIII.)
[82] Much gold has really been found in the sands of the Danube, the
Inn, and the Iser, and several _gold-waschereys_, as they are called,
have formerly existed on the banks of these rivers. The peculiar wealth
of the sands at Langenlebern has been accounted for, by the peasantry,
from the circumstance of Draculf, Bishop of Freysing, being drowned off
this bank, A.D. 926, and carrying down with him forty pounds weight
of gold, which he had smuggled out of the Kloster of Mosburg, and had
secured in his girdle!
[83] On some old weapons in the Rüstkammer or armoury of the castle,
the arms of the house of Greifenstein are yet to be seen so blazoned.
[84] A square hole in the earth with an iron grating over it is still
shown here as the place of confinement of some clergyman, who shared
his crust with a young snake, that thrived so wonderfully upon prison
allowance, that self-preservation at last compelled him to kill it
while asleep with a stick, that is also shown in the dungeon.
[85] It was originally called Neuenburg, Neuenburch, and Niwenburg, and
appears to have been strongly fortified.
[86] Albert IV., Duke of Austria, died here on the 14th of September,
1404, in the twenty-seventh year of his age; and the Empress Wilhelmina
Amelia, widow of Joseph I., also ended her days here in April 1742.
[87] This Emperor, who, to use his own words, “with the best
intentions, never carried a single project into execution,” in his
laudable attempts to purify religion from the dregs of superstition,
reduced the number of convents in Austria from two thousand and
twenty-four, to seven hundred. Vide Coxe’s _History of the House of
Austria_. The learned Archdeacon has justly and eloquently described
the character of the kind-hearted but inconsistent Joseph; but I am at
a loss to know why a Christian minister should include the following
ordinance amongst “the _childish_ and _ridiculous_ regulations” of
the Emperor. “Thou shalt forbear all occasions of dispute relative to
matters of faith; and thou shalt, according to the true principles of
Christianity, affectionately and kindly treat those who are not of thy
communion.” (Ord. October 24, 1781.)
[88] “That’s fine!” or, as we should say, “capital.”
[89] “Ruhet sanft auf diesen höhen edle gebeine tapferer Oesterreichs
Krieger; Ruhm bedeckt bey Aspern und Wagram gefallen vermag euer freund
nicht, die entseelten leichname zu beleben; sie zu ehren ist seine
pflicht.”
[90] Yes, there is another. On the gates of the castle are daubed two
sentinels armed cap à pied! Forcibly recalling to my memory the figures
painted in the sentry-boxes, which were wont to delight and terrify me
when an urchin, and cause many a clandestine expedition to Bayswater
tea-gardens.
[91] The oldest piece of armour I have seen in Germany, is in the
collection at the Lowenburg, at Wilhelmshöe. It is a moveable visor of
the close of the fourteenth century; but both possessors and exhibitors
are evidently ignorant of its value and antiquity.
[92] “Blue-House,”--this, however, is a corruption. The name of
Blaue-Haus is derived, not from the ancient colour of its walls, as
the vulgar suppose, but from the family of Plauenstein, its original
possessors.
NAMES
OF THE
CITIES, TOWNS, VILLAGES, CASTLES, MONASTERIES, etc.
ON THE
BANKS OF THE DANUBE,
FROM RATISBON TO VIENNA.
*RIGHT BANK.* ⇊ *LEFT BANK.*
+Regensburg+ _or_ +Ratisbon+. ⇊ Stadt-am-Hof.
⇊ Reinhausen.
⇊ Weichs.
St. Nicola. ⇊ Schwabelweiss.
Einhausen or Bürgelut. ⇊ Tegernheim.
Irlmauth. ⇊
Kreuzhof. ⇊ Donaustauf. (Ruin.)
Barbing. ⇊ Reifelding. St.Salvator.
⇊ Sulzbach.
Sarching. ⇊
⇊ Demling.
Nassenhart. ⇊ Bach.
Friesheim. ⇊ Frenghofen.
Ilkhofen. ⇊ Kruckenberg. Ettersdorf.
Altach. Auburg. ⇊ Kirfenholz.
Eltheim. ⇊
Gaissling. ⇊
⇊ Gieffen.
Seppenhausen. ⇊
⇊ Oberachdorf. Wiesent.
1st Post Station from} Pfätter. ⇊
Regensburg} ⇊
⇊ Wörth (Chateau.)
⇊ Hungerdorf.
⇊ Tiefenthal.
Griefau. Gmund. ⇊ Keesel. Hochdorf.
Herrfurt. ⇊
Irling. ⇊ Heiligen Blut or Niederach.
⇊ Bogen or Hagenhof.
Aholfing. ⇊
⇊ Sinzendorf.
⇊ Pondorf.
⇊ Zeitsdorf or Zeitlarn.
⇊ Weihern.
⇊ Beichsee. Kirchenroth.
(Ruin.) Ober and Unter ⇊ Pittrich. Neidau.
Motzing. ⇊
Landersdorf. ⇊ Kössnach. Pfaffenmünster.
Breitenfield. ⇊ Hartzeitdorn.
Einhausen. Rinkheim. ⇊ Sossau.
Eberau. ⇊
Moosklagers. ⇊ Sossauer Beschlacht.
⇊ Hormannsdorf or Hornsdorf
2nd Post Station from} ⇊
Regensburg } +Straubing.+ ⇊ Thurmhof.
Atzelburg. ⇊ Ober and Unter Parkstetten.
⇊ Reibersdorf.
Hochstätter Hof. ⇊
⇊ Lenach.
Aiterhofen. Ittling. Ober ⇊
and Unter Ebling ⇊
⇊ Ober-Altaich. (Kloster.)
Hundersdorf. Saut. ⇊
⇊ Bogen and the Bogenberg.
⇊ (Ruin.)
Absarn. ⇊
Hermansdorf. ⇊
⇊ Hüttenhof. Hofweinzier.
⇊ Holzkirch.
⇊ Anning. Dörfl.
Einbrach or Kinbrach. ⇊
⇊ Pfelling.
Mitterdorf. Hindeldorf. ⇊
⇊ Linzing. Esper. Weichenberg.
Endau or Zengau. ⇊
⇊ Allkofen.
⇊ Albertskirchen.
⇊ Petzendorf.
Strasskirchen. Irlbach. ⇊ Wallendorf.
Loche. ⇊ Rafer or Asperhof.
Wischelberg. ⇊ Aichach.
⇊
Stephan-Posching. ⇊ Maria-Posching.
Uttenkofen. ⇊ Hundeldorf.
Steinfurt. ⇊ Sommersdorf.
Steinkirchen. ⇊ Klein-Schwarzach.
Bergheim. ⇊ Ziedeldorf. Offenberg.
⇊ Neuhausen.
⇊ Himmelberg.
Metten Ufer. ⇊ Metten. (Kloster.)
(Ruin) Natternberg. ⇊ Helfkam.
Fischerdorf. ⇊ Schäching.
⇊ Deggendorf.
⇊ Deggenau.
3d Post Station from} Plattling on ⇊
Regensburg} the Inn. ⇊ Halbe-Meile-Kirche.
Isragemünd. ⇊ Seebach.
⇊ Reit.
⇊ Helmdorf.
⇊ Unter Schwarzach.
⇊ Hengersberg. (Ruin.)
Thundorf. ⇊ Nieder Altaich. (Kloster.)
⇊ Alten Ufer.
⇊ Gindlau.
Aicha. ⇊
Haardorf. Kreuzberg. ⇊
Säge. Münchsdorf. ⇊
Osterhofen. Mulheim. ⇊ Winzer. Hochwinzer.(Ruin.)
Rockessing. Pockessing. ⇊ Loh. Kinschbach.
Rossfelden. ⇊
Guscherdorf. ⇊ Mittau.
Endsau. ⇊ Nesselbach.
Biflez. ⇊ Leiten.
⇊ Hofkirchen. (Ruin.)
Kinzing. Langenkinzing. ⇊
Herzogau. ⇊
Pleinting. ⇊ Ober and Unter Schöllenbach
⇊ Gelbersdorf.
Euröde. ⇊
⇊ Hildegardsberg. (Ruin.)
Reif. ⇊
⇊ Albersdorf.
Wisbauer. ⇊
⇊ Schmelz.
U. L. Frau. ⇊
4th Post Station from} Vilshofen. ⇊
Regensburg} ⇊ Winkel.
⇊ Hacheldorf.
Witzling. ⇊
⇊ Windorf.
Hannsbach. ⇊
⇊ Eglsee.
Ottenham. ⇊
⇊ Gerharding.
Sandbach. ⇊
⇊ Fisching.
Kötzing. ⇊
Leestätten. ⇊ Deichselberg.
⇊
Einöd. ⇊ Kling.
Biberach. ⇊ Geishofen.
Schalding. ⇊ Iring.
⇊ Söldern.
Reit. Ord. Hof. ⇊
⇊ Alaning.
⇊ Donauhof.
Dobelstein. Haining. ⇊ Wörth.
⇊ Maierhof.
Steinbach. ⇊ Stölzel-hof.
⇊ Freunde. Hain.
5th Post Station from} +Passau.+ ⇊
Regensburg} ⇊
⇊ Ilz-stadt. Oberhaus.
Truckerheim. ⇊
Achleiten. ⇊
Parz. ⇊ Lindau.
Aich. ⇊ Aichet.
Schildbauer. ⇊ Leiten.
⇊ Wingertsdorf.
Unter-Mitter-Esternberg. ⇊
⇊ Schergendorf.
Deitzendorf. Hetzmannsdorf. ⇊
(Chateau.) Krempenstein. ⇊
Pirawang. ⇊
Unter Schacha. ⇊ Mazenberg.
⇊ {(Bavarian
Ober Hütt. Hochleiten. ⇊ Ober or Hafner-Zell.{ Custom-
⇊ { House.)
Kasten. ⇊ Ober } Grunau.
⇊ Unter }
(Chateau.) Fichtenstein. ⇊
⇊(River middle: Jochenstein, or
⇊ Grenzberg.)
⇊ Gottsdorf.
(Austrian} Engelhardszell. ⇊ Ried. (Ruin.)
Custom-House.)} ⇊
⇊
Ober } ⇊ Rana-Riedl. (Chateau.)
Unter} Leitner. ⇊
⇊ Rana-bach and Mühle.
Ober-Rana. ⇊ Ufer.
Kacher. ⇊ Nieder Rana.
⇊ Marsbach. (Ruin.)
Wesen Urfar. ⇊ Marsbach Zell, or Frey Zell.
Ober } Wollmarkt. ⇊
Unter} ⇊
(Ruin.) Waldkirchen. ⇊
Pulhof. ⇊
⇊ Kirschbaum, or Hayenbach. (Ruin.)
The Schlagen, or Schlägleiten. ⇊
Lidritzhueb. ⇊ Lidritzhueb.
⇊ Au.
Im-Zell. ⇊ Ob.
Fadenau-Hof. ⇊
Ober } Schwend. ⇊ Ober-Michel. Kirschberg.
Unter} ⇊
Hinter-Aigen. ⇊ Dorf.
⇊ Windberg.
⇊ Neuhaus. (Ruin and Chateau.)
Schönleiten. ⇊
Rosengarten. ⇊
Stauf. Aschach. ⇊
⇊ Landshag.
Hartkirchen. Dorsham. ⇊ Ober Walsee. Eschelberg.
⇊ Mülhachen. Bergheim.
(Ruin.) Schaumberg. ⇊
Pupping. ⇊
Gstettenau. ⇊ Hofham.
Au. ⇊ Auerdorf.
Waschpoint. ⇊
Wörth. ⇊ Mohrhäusel.
8th Post Station from} Efferding. ⇊
Regensburg} Schab. ⇊
Taubenbraun. Gablau. ⇊
Raffolding. Ihndorf. ⇊ Bösenbach. Bach.
Tratteneck. ⇊
Strass. Emling. Aham. ⇊
Stocköd. ⇊ Goldwarth.
Basleiten. ⇊
Hartheim. ⇊ Waldinger.
Alkofen. ⇊
Garderiener. Hagenau. ⇊
Bergham. ⇊
Gohbesch. ⇊
Steger. ⇊
Schwagen. ⇊ Rodel.
Schönering. ⇊
Im-Fall. ⇊ Höflein.
Urfar. ⇊
⇊ Ottensheim. (Chateau.)
(Kloster.) Willering. ⇊
⇊ Buchenau.
⇊ Hager Schloschen.
Calvarienberg. ⇊
Margarethen. ⇊ Pöstlingberg.
9th Post Station from} +Linz.+ ⇊ Urfar.
Regensburg.} ⇊
⇊ Anhof.
⇊ Pflaster.
⇊ Harbarz.
⇊ Bach.
⇊ Furth.
Ober } Rosenthal. ⇊ Magdalena.
Unter} ⇊
⇊ Dornach.
⇊ Furtner.
⇊ Katsbach.
⇊ Plösching.
Kaufleuten. ⇊ Binneshäuser.
Blankenreit. ⇊ Spital.
Zitzelau. St. Peter. ⇊ Dörfl.
Ebelsberg ⇊
on the ⇊ Steyereck. (Ruin.)
Traun. ⇊
⇊ Pulgarn.
Traundorf. ⇊ Reichenbach.
Bosch. ⇊ Luftenberg.
Unger Bichling. ⇊ Hof-im-Schlag.
Monastery of St. Florian} Fosterau. ⇊
and Markt.} Fischau. ⇊ Himberg.
Rafferstetten. ⇊ Auwinden.
Asten. ⇊ St. Georgen.
(Chateau.) Tilly’s Burg. ⇊ Gusen. Wirthshaus. Frankenberg.
Kronau. ⇊
(Ruin.) Spielberg. ⇊ Langenstein.
10th Post Station from} +Ens.+ ⇊ Urfar.
Regensburg} ⇊
Ensdorf. St. Lorenz. Lorch. ⇊ Mauthausen. Pragstein.
Enghazen. ⇊
Tabor. ⇊
Windpassing. Biburg. ⇊ Reissersdorf.
Albing. ⇊ Albing.
Albern. ⇊ Niedersebing.
Stein. ⇊ Au. Berg. Auhof. Mitterberg.
Wagram. ⇊ Hartschlössel.
St. Pantaleon. ⇊ Naarn.
Erla Kloster. ⇊ Anhäusel. Strass. M. Lab. Arbing.
⇊ Baumgarten.
Breitfeld. ⇊ Stafling.
Weinberg. ⇊ Holzleiten.
⇊ Starzing.
Oberau. ⇊ Rupertshofen. Münzbach.
⇊ Windhag. Allerheiligen.
⇊ St. Thomas.
⇊
Engelberg. ⇊
Engelthal. ⇊
Mitterau. ⇊
Lin. ⇊
Unterau. ⇊
Eck. ⇊
Gersberg. ⇊ Langacker. Wagerhof.
Achleiten. ⇊
⇊ Gang.
11th Post Station } Strengberg. ⇊ Weisching.
from Regensburg. } ⇊
⇊ Inzing.
Haag. ⇊ Hördorf.
Stauding. ⇊ Hulting.
Hörling. Sindburg. ⇊ Mitterkirchen.
Niederwalsee. (Chateau.) ⇊
⇊
Ober} Sumerau. ⇊ Menschdorf.
Unter} ⇊
Leitzing. ⇊
Im Brüch. ⇊
⇊ Eizindorf. Froschau.
⇊ Saxen.
⇊ Dornach.
⇊ Klam. (Chateau)
⇊ Hofkirchen.
Hagenauer. ⇊ Petzeldorf.
Bocksreiter. ⇊
⇊ Rinzenhof.
Ardagger. ⇊ Saurüsselleiten.
Winkling. ⇊
Mayherhof. ⇊ Tiefenbach.
⇊ Wies.
Wies. ⇊ Grein. (Chateau.)
⇊ Giesenbach.
⇊ River Middle (
⇊ Strudel and } Wirbel.
⇊ Schloss Werfenstein. })
⇊ Struden. (Ruin.)
(Ruin.) Haustein. ⇊ St. Nikola.
⇊ Sarblingstein.
(Ruin.) Hirschau. ⇊ Hirschau.
(Ruin.) Freyenstein. ⇊
Dörfel. ⇊
⇊ Isper.
⇊ Weins.
⇊ Marhof.
(Chateau.) Donaudorf. ⇊ Kiernholz.
⇊ Bösenbeug. (Chateau)
+Ips.+ ⇊
Hinterhaus. ⇊ Taberg.
Ober} Agen. ⇊ Gottsdorf.
Unter} ⇊
Säusenstein. ⇊ Barthub.
⇊ Mötzling.
⇊ Rohberg.
⇊ Rosenbühel.
Idersdorf. ⇊ Loja.
⇊ Thümling.
⇊ Auratsberg.
⇊ Kranz.
⇊ Marbach. Maria-Taferl.
⇊ Schelmenbach.
Krumnussbaum. ⇊ Krumnussbaum.
⇊
Pechlarn. ⇊ Klein Pechlarn.
Wörth. ⇊ Ebersdorf.
⇊ Lehen.
⇊ Urfar.
⇊ Weideneck. (Ruin.)
⇊ St. Georgen.
⇊ Hain.
14th Post Station} (Kloster) ⇊
from Regensburg} Mölk. ⇊
⇊ Emmersdorf.
Hueb. ⇊ Schall-Emersdorf.
⇊ Gosam.
⇊ Urfar. Grinzing.
Schönbühel. ⇊
Schönbühelhof. ⇊ Markt Aggsbach. Aggstein.
⇊ (Ruin.)
Dorf Aggsbach. ⇊
⇊ Willendorf.
⇊ Groisbach.
St. Johann. ⇊ Schwallenbach.
Ober Arnsdorf. ⇊
Hof Arnsdorf. ⇊ Erlahöfe.
Unter Arnsdorf. ⇊ Spitz. Hinterhaus (Ruin.)
Bach Arnsdorf. ⇊ St. Michael.
Ober} Kienstock. ⇊ Wesendorf.
Unter} ⇊
St. Lorenz. ⇊ Joching.
⇊ Weissenkirchen.
Ruhrsdorf. ⇊
Rossaz. ⇊
⇊ Dürrenstein. (Ruin.)
Hundheim. ⇊ Ober }
⇊ Unter} Löben.
+Mautern.+ ⇊ +Stein.+
⇊ +Krems.+
Kloster-Göttweih. ⇊
Palt. ⇊ Weinzierl.
Brunnkirchen. ⇊ Landersdorf.
Thalern. ⇊ Röhrendorf.
Angern. ⇊
Wolfsberg. ⇊ Weidling.
⇊ Neu-Weidling.
⇊ Teiss.
(Ruin.) Holenburg. ⇊
Wagram. ⇊ Schlickendorf.
St. Georgen. ⇊ Donaudorf. Grunddorf.
Rittersfeld. ⇊
Trasenmauer. ⇊
Stollhofen. ⇊ Jedtsdorf.
Frauendorf. ⇊ Grafenwörth.
Preiwitz. ⇊ Wasen.
⇊ St. Johann.
⇊ Ober}
⇊ und} Lebern.
⇊ Unter}
Bodensee. ⇊ Sachsendorf.
⇊ Kollersdorf.
Kleindorf. ⇊ Altenwörth.
Berndorf. ⇊ Gugging.
⇊ Winkel.
Zwentendorf. ⇊ Frauendorf.
Erpersdorf. ⇊ Birnbaum.
Klein Schönbuhel. ⇊ Urzenlaa.
Kronau. ⇊ Möllersdorf.
Aspern. ⇊ Neuaigen.
⇊ Triebensee.
Tuln. ⇊
⇊ Perzendorf.
⇊ Ober Schmidabach.
⇊ Zana.
Ober und Unter Aigen, or ⇊ Schmida.
Langenlebern. ⇊
⇊ Ober }
Muckendorf. ⇊ und } Zeyersdof.
⇊ Unter}
Zeiselmauer. ⇊
Wörten. ⇊ Stockerau.
St. Andre. ⇊
Altenberg. ⇊
(Ruin.) Greifenstein. ⇊
⇊ Spillern.
Hoflein. ⇊ Alt-Kreutzerstein.
Ober Kritzendorf. ⇊ Korneuburg.
St. Veit. ⇊
Unter Kritzendorf. ⇊ Bisamberg.
Kloster-Neuburg. ⇊ Tuttenhof. Dorf.
Weidling. ⇊ Lang-Enzersdorf.
Josephsberg, Leopoldsberg,} Dorfel. ⇊ Jetelsee.
both called the Khalenberg.} ⇊
Nussdorf. ⇊
Heiligen Stadt. ⇊ Gedlersdorf am Spitz.
Döbling. ⇊
+Wien+,} ⇊
or} ⇊
+Vienna+,} ⇊
19th Post Station, and 27 Posts from Regensburg, or 243 English miles.
Distance by water about 300 English miles.
THE END.
Printed by +William Clowes+, Stamford Street.
_Speedily will be published, in illustration of this Volume_,
FORTY VIEWS ON THE DANUBE,
DRAWN ON STONE +BY+ L. HAGHE,
FROM
SKETCHES MADE ON THE SPOT BY J. R. PLANCHE.
No. I. will contain:
1. Ratisbon, from Höhen-Schambach.
2. Donaustauf.
3. Schloss Wörth.
4. Straubing.
TRANSCRIBERS' NOTES
Spelling, including inconsistent usage and forms reflecting local,
historical, or foreign-language usage, has been retained as printed.
This includes apparent misspellings in German names or words (e.g.
Thurm/Thurn), which have not been changed.
Minor inconsistencies in spacing and punctuation have been silently
standardized.
Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected (e.g.
"astonishings pectacle").
The following markings were use to indicate how the original text was
formatted: "_" for _italic_, "*" for *bold*, and "+" for +small-caps+.