CHAPTER VI.

POSTSCRIPT.—RECENT EVENTS.

As recent events in the East are at the present time attracting the

attention of the world toward the Turkish Empire, I may be permitted,

while the preceding chapters are passing through the press, to contribute

my mite to the general discussion as to the condition of that Government,

especially in its relation to the East.

Nominally, Turkey is one of the Great Powers, but in reality she is one

of the weakest. With a gross total population of forty-two millions

there are sixteen millions in Europe, but of these nearly six millions

are inhabitants of protectorate States—viz., Roumania, Servia, and

Montenegro. Turkey in Asia is reckoned at sixteen millions, and in Africa

at ten millions, but these last are all merely protectorate, and even

that almost nominally (Egypt, Tripoli, and Tunis), paying some tribute,

but otherwise acting very much as independent Governments. For aggressive

purposes, therefore, Turkey is of little account. Her Government is

essentially a religious one, and however despotic the Sultan may be,

the real power lies with the heads of the Mahomedan clergy. This, while

a source of strength by binding all its Mahomedan subjects together

although of different races, is otherwise its greatest weakness, because

such strength is only that of inertia and obstruction. No improvement or

reform is therefore possible unless under pressure of the very strongest

kind, no matter what the Sultan may wish or even promise to accomplish.

Thus it is that complaints of bad faith are made so frequently against

the Porte by other Powers.

The religion of Mahomet (whether in pretence or reality is disputed)

was one ostensibly founded on Charity, and the wonderful success it

achieved on all hands in the early centuries of its history evinces great

diplomatic talent as well as military skill, even in a period of general

anarchy and the decrepitude of opposing forces. The present Turkish

dynasty (Osmanlis), whose fatherland was the country bordering south and

east of the Caspian Sea, reached the zenith of its greatness between

A.D. 1453, when the Turks stormed Constantinople, and the close of the

sixteenth century. During that period they asserted themselves as one of

the greatest military Powers, and their navy commanded the Mediterranean.

Since then their power has been one of continuous decay, and especially

of late, since their defeat at Navarino.

The earlier Arab dynasty (the Omaiades) was much superior to the Turks.

In the eighth century the Arabs overran southern Europe and conquered

Spain, and have left many monuments of their enlightened policy and

the advanced culture of their caliphs in literature, science, and art,

and were distinguished in those days even for liberality and religious

toleration. I was told, when visiting the Grand Mosque in Damascus, that

when the Mahomedans acquired the command of the city they liberally

shared the use of that building with the Christians. How different the

feeling now!

It is conspicuously evident that instead of being progressive, the Turks

have long been retrograding in every direction. Their prestige is gone;

but instead of realizing this, they omit no opportunity of evincing

their contempt for and superiority over the Christians, even in a manner

the most offensive. I cannot better illustrate this than by quoting a

paragraph I have just seen in a morning paper:—

Mr. Evans, a recent traveller in European Turkey, “had received a safe

conduct from a high Mahomedan functionary to penetrate into Bosnia. He

and his brother were given in charge to a tax-collector. On the arrival

of the party at a tributary of the river Save, the English travellers

waded across, when, to their astonishment, the Zaptieh, or tax-collector,

instead of following their example, stood shivering on the brink.

Looking about him, this valiant and gallant Mahomedan saw a Christian

woman walking on the other bank of the stream, to whom he shouted to

cross and carry him to the other side. Necessarily there was but one

course for the Englishmen to adopt, and that was to forbid such a gross

exhibition of unmanliness. Checkmated so far, the Mussulman beheld an

agricultural Christian coming along, whom he hailed and ‘requisitioned.’

The simple countryman apparently never thought of resistance, and taking

his Mahomedan oppressor on his back, carried him to the other side of

the stream. So well had the poor man become accustomed to that sort

of thing, that he seemed perfectly contented when he received for his

services a handful of tobacco.”

The cool effrontery of the Turk, as all Eastern travellers know, is here

well illustrated, and if such a thing was possible in the presence of

two English travellers we can quite believe the stories now current of

atrocities a hundredfold greater when no restraining eye was looking on.

Perhaps the “requisitioning” may have been in imitation of the English

sailor, of whom a story was told during the Crimean war. Jack, seeing

that donkeys were scarce, thought it was only reasonable that the Turk

should provide other means of transport to the English who were fighting

their battle gratis, and accordingly deemed it perfectly fair that

any “lazy lubber” he met should relieve him of his burden, or even on

occasion carry Jack himself on his back over unsavoury swamps! But then

the British tar never “requisitioned” women, nor showed harshness or

cruelty to the defenceless, while such—even the aged and children—ever

are the principal victims of Turkish cruelties.

In their administration, from the highest official to the lowest

tax-collector, corruption prevails to an extent hopelessly incurable,

for its offices, from almost the apex to the base of the Government, are

_sold_. Extortion and oppression at every point are the consequences, and

even the course of justice is corrupted. Hitherto Egypt has generally

been considered free of this charge, but circumstances have just arisen

which render this questionable in connexion with some Government

mercantile transactions. There the chief judge is appointed by the

Sultan, and I think the chief priest also, but they are both recommended

or “nominated” by the Khedive. Throughout Turkey the result is apparent

in the uncultivated soil and consequent barrenness—the finest climate in

the world notwithstanding. Against the Saracens the same accusations

of destroying trees and vegetation were long ago made, but they had the

excuse of a barbarous age and a war of conquest as some apology, whereas

Turkey has had a long period of peace almost guaranteed to her. Other

evils are following fast; the national expenditure has for years been

enormously in excess of the revenue. No works of any productive nature

can be shown, and now the nation is at length hopelessly bankrupt and

trade paralysed by extortionate taxes.

In such circumstances the “sick man” ought to collapse politically as

well as financially. Surrounded by powerful neighbours long watching

for their opportunity he has been maintained all along by their mutual

jealousy, and by the forbearance and friendly support and advice of

England, an advice which, even when apparently accepted, has not, it

would appear, been honestly acted upon. “The times have been that when

the brains were out the man would die, and there an end, but now they

rise”—these Turks arise and awe the world by deeds, not of military

prowess as of old, but by “thousand murders” and atrocities which make

the ears of modern hearers to tingle, and which must be buried out of

sight—they are the evidence of conscious weakness, of fear, or despair.

And enlightened England by almost unanimous opinion bears the blame!

It is vain to accuse this or that English Ministry; since the battle

of Navarino and Palmerston’s days, his Turkish policy has been tacitly

confirmed and continued by all political parties, and it was once an

apparently wise one in the interests of the _statu quo_ and the peace

of Europe. But the event has now proved the very reverse. We have been

unintentionally defending, encouraging, and morally bolstering up an

iniquitous system and a semi-barbarous people, who, instead of improving

thereby, seem to be the more rapidly retrograding.

And now comes the perplexing question, How is this policy to be altered?

A question easily asked, but very difficult, perhaps impossible, to

answer. Undoubtedly the dread of Russian ascendancy in Europe has been

the _bête noire_ of the other Powers, and her aggressions in Central Asia

have all along been adding to the anxieties of England. These jealousies

led to the Crimean war, which, with an immense loss of brave men and

wasted treasures, resulted in little else than putting off for a few

years more the settlement of the inevitable Eastern question. The time

seems come at last, or is very near at hand.

Perhaps Great Britain should do nothing except show to the Turks—Sultan

and people—in some clear and public manner that she can no longer, even

in appearance, accord to Turkey her moral support. And may it not be that

if let alone the Eastern question will solve itself? But in any case it

is to be hoped that those at the helm of affairs, who know the situation

best, will carry along with them in their policy the national feeling

of the country, for this will generally be found to be on the right,

provided the people have the question correctly and fairly put before

them.

For Britain, however, perhaps the most practically important part of the

Eastern question is that relating to Egypt, Palestine, and Syria, because

with that is connected the question of maintaining and opening up new

communications with India and the far East. To do this in the interest of

commerce would evidently be the best, cheapest, and least offensive way

of checking the stealthy approaches of Russia towards the border land of

our Indian possessions, and of opening up Central Asia generally to the

already halting commerce of this great producing country.[15]

The Turks personally are warlike and greedy of power, but almost

universally are early enervated by luxurious indulgence. They rule their

Arab subjects oppressively, and with a high hand. Those of Syria and

Palestine are ignorant and downtrodden, and, as before shown, naturally

submissive to their master, whoever he may be; but are greatly instigated

and controlled by the Moslem priests, who are bigoted, treacherous, and

cruel in all matters of their religion.

The same may be said of Egypt, but there the priesthood seem less

intolerant, and the Arabs more submissive still than those of Asia.

Under such circumstances it is evident that insurrections are not to

be expected from them. If a revolution come it will be by one of the

courtiers, the military leader, or the chief priest, and from such

revolutions any real or permanent improvement of the country is not to be

expected. This extreme submissiveness of the population really renders

the power of an Eastern ruler extremely unstable, no matter how powerful

and absolute he may be for the time.

In judging of the Turkish Government, therefore, we should bear this

state of things in mind. It may be that the great massacre of the

Christians in Damascus and the Lebanons in 1860 was planned and carried

out with neither the knowledge nor approval of the Sultan, and the same

may be said of the recent massacre at Salonica and those in Bulgaria,

many of the victims of which yet lie unburied; but all of them prove

the uncontrollable fierceness of Moslem fanaticism. England should not

permit the Government or its representatives in Constantinople either

to conceal or deny the facts, but to actively search out and expose

them, which they certainly have not done. To conceal or ignore them will

undoubtedly encourage their repetition, and perhaps convince the Turkish

subjects that England, after all, has some reason for being secretly not

over-much displeased at their occurrence!

But while England may abstain from helping Turkey either with material

aid or encouragement in Europe, might she not render valuable service to

Turkey as well as to humanity and progress by lending her powerful aid in

promoting great improvement works in Asia? I have already[16] pointed out

one of primary importance, both politically and commercially, which seems

to lie very much to her hand.

P.S.—_22nd September, 1876._—Since the above was in print I have read

Earl Derby’s defence of the Government policy towards Turkey. It will

be a serious misfortune if this question be made a party one, for which

there are certainly no good grounds. The present Government seems merely

to have been carrying out the old Palmerstonian policy of maintaining

Turkey, not from any approval of that effete Power, but simply as a

bulwark against Russia’s aggression, for in this policy all political

parties have long acquiesced, and it seems unfair to blame the Government

for the recent deplorable events in the European provinces.

But they have evidently erred in not being the first to see what recent

events have clearly proved, that the Turks are not only bankrupt and

effete, but, as proved by the Bulgarian atrocities, incurably barbarous,

beastly, and cruel. An opportunity has occurred, and that by the fault

of the Turks themselves, for England to free herself from the support of

a people who have broken all promises and whose hands are reeking with

rapine and blood. Surely the Government of Queen Victoria, confessedly

the most benign sovereign the world has ever seen, will not fail to avail

themselves of it. In their anxiety to maintain the “peace of Europe”

they may miss it; but can the peace of Europe be maintained by England

in the face of the world, even if desirable to do so, which it surely

is not? For were England, either alone or with the Great Powers, to

insist upon maintaining the _statu quo_ it would simply be to prevent

(of course by war if necessary) all or any reformation in these States

and provinces, and render any revolution by their wretchedly downtrodden

people impossible. Let us think what that means. How would Scotchmen have

liked such interference in the patriotic uprisings of Wallace and Bruce,

and how would Englishmen have tolerated the interference of the European

Powers with our great revolution of 1688?

The Turks are the same as ever they were, but their military prowess is

gone. They can no longer wage war with their enemies, but can, as of

old, use their scimitars against women and children—their own subjects!

Without going back beyond the present century, Châteaubriand, in his

travels in Eastern Europe (1806), relates several instances of Turkish

government. A Greek girl in the village of St. Paul’s, having lost her

father and mother, and having been left a small fortune, received an

education superior to her neighbours. For this, or other cause, the

villagers became violently prejudiced against her, and resolved to get

rid of her. They first raised a sum fixed by the Turkish law for the

murder of a Christian woman; then they broke by night into the house of

their devoted victim, whom they butchered. Thereon one of them hastened

to the Pasha with the price of blood! Not content with the usual sum,

he the same day despatched two janissaries to “demand an additional

contribution, which caused an extraordinary sensation, not because of

the atrocity of the deed, but of the greediness of the Pasha!” Greece,

although now free, has as a people not much to boast of; perhaps a

long series of years of Turkish oppression may have demoralized them,

but certainly she has obtained a better government, thanks to English

sympathy and aid. Here are other specimens of Turkish government in

Europe in those days. I again use the words of the eloquent Frenchman:

“The Peloponnese is a desert; the Turkish yoke has borne with increased

weight on the Morea, and part of its population has been slaughtered

by the Albanians. Nothing meets the eye but villages destroyed by fire

and sword. Grinding oppression, outrages of every kind, complete the

destruction of agriculture and human life. To drive a peasant from his

cabin, to carry off his wife and children, to put him to death on the

slightest pretext, is mere sport with the Aga of the meanest village.”

“Reduced to misery, the Morean abandons his native land, and repairs

to Asia in quest of a less severe Aga. Vain hope! He cannot escape his

destiny; there he finds other Cadis and other Pashas.” “What had become

of that altar consecrated to Pity which once stood in the midst of the

public place at Athens, and to which her [heathen] votaries suspended

locks of their hair?” This as to the governed; let us see what is the

character and refinement of the governors. “This Disdar, or governor, of

Athens resides in the citadel, filled with the masterpieces of Phidias,

without inquiring what nation left these remains, without deigning to

step beyond the threshold of the paltry habitation he has built for

himself under the ruins of the monuments of Pericles, except very rarely,

when this automaton shuffles to the door of his den, squats cross-legged

on a dirty carpet, and while the smoke from his pipe ascends between the

columns of the temple of Minerva, eyes with vacant stare the shores of

Salamis and the sea of Epidaurus!” Again a heathen “proconsul might be a

monster of lust, of avarice, and of cruelty, but all the proconsuls did

not delight systematically and from a spirit of religion in overthrowing

the monuments of civilization and the arts, in cutting down trees,

in destroying harvests—and this is done by the Turks every day. Is it

conceivable that tyrants should exist so absurd as to oppose every

improvement in things of the first necessity?” “A bridge falls—it is not

built up again. A man repairs his house—he becomes a victim of extortion.”

This refers to 1806; have the Turks changed since? Look at the massacre

of the Christians in Damascus and the Lebanons in 1860, when fifteen

thousand defenceless men, women, and children were treacherously murdered

in cold blood. The European Powers were then roused to indignation,

and a French army was despatched to investigate the case. It was never

fully explained, the Government at Constantinople denied all guilt, even

knowledge of it, and threw the whole blame upon the Druses, a warlike

sect at variance with the Maronites, but it was proved that the signal

for the slaughter was given by the Turkish Governor of Damascus. The

French would not be altogether cajoled, so the Governor was sacrificed,

justly, no doubt, but what reparation can be made for such a hecatomb of

human lives? That the same scene has not occurred again we have perhaps

to thank the visit of the French army and the precautions then enforced

upon Turkey. Then look at the sad loss of human life in Asia Minor last

year from famine. What did the governors do to mitigate it? Nay, would

the sufferings of these wretched people have been known at all could they

have concealed them?

Who shall tell how many perished with hunger? American and English

residents sounded the first alarm and distributed alms—alas, in many

cases too late. The Constantinople Government were shamed into action

at last, but it was said that their tax-gatherers were at the same

time seizing the seed corn of the famishing people, as well as the

half-starved animals they had for tilling their fields! This year we

had the treacherous assassinations at Salonica, remarkable chiefly as

showing the blind and uncontrollable fury of the Moslems, and then even

when engaged in making abject apologies for the crime, and punishing

(under dread of the French and Prussian war-ships) the perpetrators,

their generals were busy committing new atrocities in the Christian

provinces absolutely diabolical—unheard-of for wickedness.

Was ever such an indictment made up against any other Power? The

insolence of Theodore of Abyssinia, the despot of Coomassie, or even this

new mighty highness of Dahomey cannot approach the effrontery of the

Turks, and this too in return for unprecedented kindness and indulgence

on the part of Great Britain, and in the face of solemn promises of

reformation and reform made again and again—only to be shamelessly

broken. History affords no parallel to it, nor is it easy to find even

an illustration of this audacity of the Turks on the one hand, or of the

simplicity and willing blindness of the English Government, their money

lenders, and people on the other. The lying fat knight and the silly dame

of Eastcheap somewhat approach it, but dramatic story is not sufficiently

serious for such a subject. Long suffering is a Christian virtue, and

charity is beautiful—covering a multitude of sins—but when its repetition

again and again only fosters offences into ranker and unspeakable

grossness, even forbearance becomes a crime—in this case against the

world at large.

Disguise it as they may, the Turks are slaveholders. They hold all women,

under whatever name they may call them, slaves. For politic reasons they

are not to be detected selling them, but their traffic in the buying

of them can scarcely be concealed. The slavery formerly existing in

the Southern States of America, against which Englishmen so loudly and

properly declaimed, was less debasing in practice, because the Turkish

women are not only enslaved, but imprisoned in cages of stone. This fact

lies, I believe, at the root of the visible declension of the Turkish

power and the effeminacy of the race, and not only so, but is, I have

no doubt, the producing cause of that abyss of utter worthlessness and

shamelessness of character into which they have sank. The unacknowledged

but most potent influence for good of the gentler sex is lost to them as

a community. They lock up the greatest civilizers of the world, without

whom we must all eventually return to a state worse than that of the

savage. They as it were shut out the light and genial influence of the

sun of their social life, cast away the one earthly sweetener of the

bitter waters of Marah—and so, besides debasing the family affections,

destroy those feelings of compassion and friendship, and consideration

which they owe to their fellow men. It is obvious such an unfeeling state

of mind will qualify them for the committal of almost any crime, and

explains somewhat their surprise that the world should complain of them.

The imprisonment of the women not only occasions the deterioration of

the moral feeling of the community at large but that of the sex as well.

The injury is mutual, and gradually becomes permanent, so that the

mere opening of the prison doors would not at once restore the natural

influence of the gentle sex. This indefinable grace and influence of

women for good and its restraining effects upon the most hardened sinner

is exquisitely portrayed by Milton in his well-known passage on the first

meeting between Satan and Eve—of course here in its highest possible

instance:—

“Her every air

Of gesture or least action, overaw’d

His malice, and with rapine sweet bereav’d

His fierceness of the fierce intent it brought:

That space the Evil One abstracted stood

From his own evil, and for the time remain’d

Stupidly good; of enmity disarm’d

Of guile, of hate, of envy, of revenge;—

Thoughts, whither have ye led me! with what sweet

Compulsion thus transported to forget

What hither brought us! hate, not love.”

Of such sweet compulsion the Turks are and must remain ignorant. Their

whole system of religion and domestic life renders them hopelessly

incurable, and they would evidently sink if let alone under the weight of

their own crimes.

The domestic life of Turkey is still best illustrated by “Bluebeard and

his Wives;” the great curved scimitar, somewhat stained, is nowadays

hung overhead, suspended by a thread. Sister Ann is silent, for she sees

nobody coming, and the whilom gallant knight St. George is amissing.

It is well England is rousing herself at last, and avoiding party

recrimination, seems resolved that this Christian nation shall no longer

act, not merely as the guide, philosopher, and friend, but the patron

of this monstrous system of evil. Omitting political leaders, our best

and wisest have spoken out nobly and well on this subject. Who have a

better right to be heard on such a subject than Earl Russell, Earl of

Shaftesbury, and the Baroness Burdett Coutts? The Bishops of the Church,

the Nonconformist ministers, and the men best known of all parties for

their good deeds have taken the lead, and surely no Government will

refuse to give ear to opinions so publicly expressed. The difficulty of

getting out of a wrong course is sometimes very great, and may in this

case involve us in serious consequences; but we may be assured that if

we proceed in a wrong course our punishment will be still more serious.

Let us have the wisest counsel—let us have clean hands in the matter—and

remember that “to the upright light will arise in the darkness.” The

death of Prince Albert we mourn over yet, and perhaps never till now has

the country fully felt the magnitude of that loss. Just now her Majesty

must miss from her side more than ever the counsels of that great and

wise Prince!

[Illustration]

NOTES.

NOTE A, page 26.—_Ascent of the Pyramids_—_Arab Wives._

The ascent of the Pyramids is sometimes very amusing. Travellers

generally climb only one—Cheops, or the “great pyramid.” Each visitor is

provided by the Sheik in charge with three or four of his Arabs; and as

they are daily so employed, many of them can speak English sufficiently

well to be understood. The sides consist, of course, of large stones,

forming in fact a series of steps which only a giant could walk upon,

being about the height of a table. The method of climbing, therefore, is

this:—Two of your Arabs jump up by aid of their arms; and then, seizing

hold one of each of your hands, pull you up, while one assists you by

pushing from below. The speed is good, but the tugging is so vigorous

that one very soon tires of it, and learns to jump up, without much

assistance, greatly to the dissatisfaction of the over-zealous helps.

Half-way up a rest is made ostensibly for the purpose of viewing the

scene below, and for refreshing the traveller with a draught of water.

Our Arabs had all the while been singing, screaming, and laughing, as

only an Arab can. Frequently it was scraps of nursery rhymes and comic

songs, the meaning of which they seemed somewhat ignorant of, but

travellers had taught them by rote, and they had picked up the words with

singular quickness. They have great tact in finding out the nationality

of their clients, and so becoming complimentary thereon. To an American

it is, “American gentlemans good,”—“Yankee doodle,” with a screaming

chorus of half a dozen words. To one of our party, “Anglais good, ver

good,”—“Jack and Gill went up the hill.” Assuring them we were not

Anglais nor French, but from Scotland, “Ah! Scotland gentlemans good, ver

good,”—“Hey diddle diddle, the cat and the fiddle;” and so on—“Scotland

good,”—“Rickety dickety dock, the mouse ran up the clock.” Here they were

at fault, having forgotten the next line of the rhyme. On being reminded

by us, their joy seemed boundless,—“The clock struck one, and down the

mouse ran, rickety dickety dock.” This rhyme, we learned, had been told

them the previous year by a Scotch lady, but they had forgotten most of

it. Now, however, it was all at once an immense favourite, and twenty

times over the air rang with it, sung by a dozen Arab voices, and with

all the excitement and boisterousness of their tribe just as over a

recovered treasure. Surely they are “children of a larger growth.”

Upon inquiry, we learned that one of them had two wives, and would

soon be able to obtain another; one had only one wife; a third—the

youngest—had none, but was presently negotiating for one. A lady from

our hotel here astonished them with the information that the principal

of our party—although a very “rich man”—had only one wife, and that

another of us, although with grey locks, had not got even one! They all

looked surprised. One seriously expressed his regret that our unfortunate

bachelor friend was not rich enough to obtain a wife; another looked

quite incredulous, and, putting his finger upon the gold watch-chain he

wore, suggested that _there_ were riches quite sufficient to buy one

wife at least. I doubt whether a merrier day has often been passed upon

the grand pyramid of Cheops. Bakshish, of course, formed a subject of

importunity afterwards; but we escaped pretty well by referring all to

our “purse-bearer”—Josef the guide—who awaited us below.

When on the top, the celebrated “flying Arab” exhibited his surprising

agility by actually running down at _full speed_, and nearly as rapidly

running up to the top of the adjacent pyramid—almost as high. He became

gradually smaller every moment as the distance between us increased, and

he appeared to climb the opposite height very much like a rabbit in its

motions, and did not look very much larger. Of course one false step in

his downward race would have been instantly fatal, because it consisted

of a continuous succession of short rapid leaps.

The top is by no means an apex, as it seemed from a distance, but a

rough flat space, of about twenty feet square. The pyramids are solid

masses of mason work, built of largo size stones with lime or cement of

excellent quality. The stones on the top are covered over with initials

of visitors, so that there is scarcely room for more. To an Arab who,

with a large nail and hammer, offered to cut mine, I said it was quite

unnecessary, because I could point out the letters of it as already

cut several times, which quite stopped his importunity. Several of the

pyramids have had their “steps” built up with rubble and cement, making

their sides quite smooth surfaces, and probably all were so originally.

There was a slight breeze of wind—quite bracing indeed—and we took

ample time to enjoy the scene spread out below. The minarets of Cairo

are numerous and lofty, and with the citadel formed the most prominent

features in the city. Fronting westward is the bare rock and parapet over

which leaped on horseback the desperate Mameluke soldier, to escape that

awful massacre of his splendid company of cavalry by Mahomed Ali in 1811.

The Nile divides Grand Cairo from the much more ancient city of Old Cairo

on its west bank—a locality occupied by the lower class of Arabs. It is

built of black mud or sun-burnt brick, like all the villages we had seen

in our journey from Alexandria. The population is not considerable, and

I think is included in the 350,000 generally given as the population of

Cairo. Egypt has about 500 miles of railway centring in Cairo, but the

lines are scarcely traceable from this pyramid. Our descent was quite

as amusing, and almost as exciting, as our ascent had been, and I think

neither more easy nor more rapid.

On the north side of the pyramid is an opening, cut at an elevation of

about forty feet from the ground. It leads by a channel (so small that we

could not walk in it) in a downward, sloping direction; then it ascends

by another channel, leading into a chamber in the heart of the pyramid.

Here is a granite sarcophagus empty, supposed to have contained the mummy

of the King Cheops, but some say the real coffin was deeper down, cut

into the solid rock over which the pyramid was built, and that it was

originally approached by a long shaft, now choked up. We did not go in

far, as it is dark, and not pleasant in any way.

NOTE B, page 28.—_The Sphinx._

Most of the pictures and photographs I have seen of this Sphinx seem

caricatures, and I think all of them are failures, with one remarkable

exception, and that one was a cartoon in _Punch_ many years ago, in which

the very ideal of the original appears reproduced. The sculptor of the

Sphinx and the artist of that cartoon were brothers in genius, although

separated in time by forty centuries.

NOTE C, page 37.—_Snake Charmers._

Snake charmers are frequently to be seen, especially at Cairo. They carry

the snake in a common cloth bag, and whenever an audience can be got,

turn it out on the ground, and go through the usual performance. Serpents

generally are said not to have a quick sense of hearing, and yet music

exercises an extraordinary effect upon them. The mode of charming seems

to consist in playing a pipe, the performer sitting very near to the

reptile. Apparently asleep, it gradually erects itself, revolving slowly

into a peculiar beautiful convolute or shell spiral form; gradually

assuming an offensive appearance, its neck and head swell greatly,

its eyes assume a fierce glare, and altogether it acquires the very

personification of malignity. Just when ready to spring on its keeper,

with open mouth and projecting fang, the music stops, and the charmer

disarms it of its evil intent by a sudden touch. Instantly it falls

prostrate, apparently deprived of all fighting power, and is quietly

returned to its bag, of enmity disarmed. It is said the bite of these

snakes is highly poisonous, but it is supposed their poison sac has been

previously extracted.

NOTE D, page 89.—_The Barren Fig Tree_—_Tree Fruits._

Fig trees are now rarely seen in Palestine, but there are a few. Their

time of ripe fruit, judging from the appearance of those I noticed, would

be about June; but I remember of seeing two full-sized figs upon a tree

at Alexandria in the month of February. This tree was richly clad with

large leaves, which no other fig tree I met with in our tour was, so far

as I observed. Orange, lemon, and citron trees, on the other hand, we saw

in South Italy, Egypt, and Palestine and Syria, loaded with ripe fruit in

the months of January, February, and March respectively.

We did not see green figs at any of the hotels on our route; they were

not then in season, but there was plenty of fruit generally. The most

luscious green fruit was, I think, the dates with which, and especially

at Beyrout, the table was daily supplied. It seems too rich a fruit

unless eaten in great moderation; the safest fruit eaten from the tree I

found to be the orange, if fully ripe, and of these we ate several daily

throughout the journey, and freely also of old, or half-dried dates.

Of all the trees the foliage of the fig is the largest and finest; its

colour a deep rich green. Of trees in the East, the palm in certain of

its varieties is the most graceful, but in Palestine handsome palms I did

not see. It differs in appearance from other trees, as the Scotch larch

does at home, and the two are somehow always associated in my mind.

NOTE E, page 110.—_Cross Bearers_—_Pilgrimages_—_Sensuous Worship._

Here the poet, in these fine lines, speaks only of the “unknown,” but not

less has persecution dragged down, _or tried to drag down_, some of the

greatest men from fame to infamy; both alike, however, it “chased up to

Heaven.” Thomas Carlyle, as usual, has discovered the true secret of the

Martyrs’ strength. Thus he writes:—

“To such readers as have reflected, what can be called reflecting,

on man’s life, and happily discovered, in contradiction to much

Profit-and-Loss Philosophy, speculative and practical, that Soul is _not_

synonymous with stomach; who understand, therefore, ‘that, for man’s

well-being, Faith is properly the one thing needful; _how, with it,

Martyrs, otherwise weak, can cheerfully endure the shame and cross_; and

without it, Worldlings puke-up their sick existence, by suicide, in the

midst of luxury:’ to such it will be clear that, for a pure moral nature,

the loss of his religious Belief was the loss of everything.”

Several names will occur to the reader of eminent and great men in our

own country whom persecution has dragged into higher fame. Take two

contemporaries: Milton, who died of studied insult and neglect; and the

Marquis of Argyle, who was beheaded. The creatures of Charles II. thus

“chased them up to Heaven,” and tried to make their great names infamous,

but in vain. They succeeded instead in driving their Master’s family

for ever from the throne of England, giving us—happy day!—Victoria the

Beloved (with Albert the Wise) in exchange for James the Tyrant. Milton

was a peaceable subject, and Argyle in heart a truer and safer friend of

the king by far than were his unprincipled persecutors.

One great cause of the unfortunate position of Christianity in the

East is the idea cherished by each sect that they are “Cross Bearers,”

witnessing and suffering persecution for the truth. Each of them claims

protection for itself only, and several of the greater ones are protected

by some one of the Great Powers; the Greek Church by the whole power of

Russia, the Roman Catholic by that of France, the Protestant Episcopal

Church by Prussia. By some understanding the Jews and the small Christian

sects look to England. The Armenians and Maronites are separate native

races, powerful by their numbers, and the Druses are too much feared to

be seriously injured. The Turkish Government, therefore, do not persecute

these churches; the chief ones are watched over with jealous care by

their own head or patriarch, who is officially recognised. But it seems

evident that the Turks “persecute” by encouraging their mutual strife

and jealousy. This evinces itself chiefly in what we would consider

trifles, but to which these ritualistic churches attach a ludicrous

importance generally connected with “Holy Places” and pilgrimages and

sensuous public display. Blood has frequently been shed in the struggle

as to precedence, and especially in obtaining some advantage over the

others by the exhibition of the symbols and imposing ceremonial of their

own church. The small sects who have no recognised head in Turkey are

persecuted by the petty pachas in many ways. But Christians of all names

are bitterly hated by the Moslems, and persecuted beyond endurance,

not as churches, but individually as subjects, and mainly through the

Government tax-collectors. This practice of pilgrimage, whether amongst

Mahomedans, Jews, or Christians of the various sects, is deserving of

more attention than it seems to have received, not only from its almost

universal prevalence, but also from its effects. Obviously it leads to

an important distribution of wealth and circulation of gold coin; it

greatly promotes commerce and manufactures by spreading the knowledge of

trade articles and wares as between different countries, and it supports

numerous systems of transport for general use which otherwise would not

be kept up.

But its effects in a political, religious, and social point of view

are, I think, of vastly greater importance. In all these respects it

might indeed be productive of much good by the interchange of ideas,

and friendly discussion of opinions. But I think that, as conducted,

pilgrimages instead of good are productive of great evils. They are

carefully and strictly confined to religious and sectarian objects, and

the encouragement of superstition by the traffic in relics and the like.

Instead of being personal and free, they are communities disciplined and

led by priests, and cunningly guarded from any influences calculated to

open their eyes or minds by the perception or reception of any truth

beyond the narrow views in which they have been carefully instructed.

Consequently bigotry and intolerance are fostered, and each avoids

contact with the other, as if all were plague-stricken.

This condition of matters could not be continued very long were

printing-presses and newspapers introduced to publish their proceedings;

but the most profound ignorance of all truths and principles other than

those of their own creed and ceremonial is strictly maintained. I think

the only instance in which I observed a Bible in the hands of an Eastern

during our journey was one day while sailing along the coast of Phœnicia,

when a Greek priest came with a Greek Testament open in his hand and sat

down on the large chair on deck beside me. He read and pointed out the

opening verses of St. John’s Epistles. I could only reply by pointing out

the corresponding passage in my English version which lay beside him. He

shook his head and I mine, to express regret at our mutual linguistic

ignorance. After sitting together and trying to evince our mutual respect

we parted with the usual ceremony. He was a fine looking young man in

the usual well known priest’s dress, with the tall cylindrical black

hat. As a rule the making of proselytes is an object kept altogether

subservient to that of avoiding and preventing discussions, so keeping

their followers ignorant of the real tenets of their rivals. Politically,

the practice is very much the same at least as regards the Turks, who

I am satisfied could not exist as a government but for the support

they receive from their religion, and these pilgrimages are evidently

used to cement in one body the numerous nationalities which hold the

faith of the great Prophet, and to foster a spirit of resistance to the

so-called “Infidelity,” their great opponent. The champion of the faith

is personified to them in the Turkish Government and that of the enemy

in Christianity. Probably also such pilgrimages afford opportunities

for inculcating the political or priestly ideas of the time among the

various peoples, or it may create centres of disaffection for party

leaders—perhaps be made a focus for concocting plots or even massacres.

The Christian pilgrims of all sects in the East are similarly guarded,

not so much from Jewish and Mahomedan opinions as from those of each

other, and it is a curious fact that Roman Catholic influence is much

more friendly towards Moslem or Jew than to the Greek or Armenian

Christian.

Hermit monks, crusaders, and pilgrimages have found their most eloquent

eulogist in Châteaubriand. I am just reading his travels in the East

(1806), and it is difficult to understand how a man of the world so

highly educated and accomplished, could see so much that was excellent

in all three, and he so blind to their evils. In his eyes the monks

who merely “watched over” the birthplace and grave of the Saviour were

Christian heroes and martyrs! But wherein lies the merit of affecting

to idly watch a manger and a sepulchre both empty, and neither of them

real, it does not appear to him necessary to point out, nor to show that

such watching was inculcated either by reason or revelation. In point of

fact both have been in the “keeping” of the Moslems for centuries. The

angel said to Mary, “Come, see the place where the Lord lay,” but this

evidently was just to convince her of the fact and make her a witness of

His resurrection. Had it been an injunction for all believers to “see

the place,” undoubtedly the place would have been clearly obvious to all

sincere worshippers, whereas Providence has carefully obliterated every

evidence of its site.

Châteaubriand relates his own experience in a singularly ingenuous

spirit, showing a loving confidence in his religion and all its ways,

which is in these days of doubt, and questioning, and cavilling, very

beautiful to mark. By his own showing, it seems evident he was very

carefully guided throughout his travels—waited on by monks at every

point, wisely advised and carefully passed on from one monastery to

another, or one “Religious” to another, all which attentions he lovingly

accepted as only new proofs of their tender kindness and affection for

himself. The story shows how at an early period the Latin Church had

established a complete chain of outworks in the East.

And he certainly a thousandfold repaid their little attentions by

his eloquent pen—the very reward, no doubt, which they expected and

desired. It is almost impossible to help liking the man, and difficult

to judge very rigidly his opinions. His unquestioning faith, and

apparent truthfulness, and life-long advocacy, have done more to

cover the “multitude of sins” of his Church than any other of her

defenders I have read. His devotion, which in other men would be called

superstition, is presented in a spirit so beautifully sentimental that I

can now understand how, trained as young people, from marquises down to

commoners, nowadays are, so many have recently been “converted” to his

Church.

As to the Crusades of the Middle Ages, it cannot be denied that many men

entered upon them in a noble spirit, and at first they were carried out

largely with most self-denying courage and devotion; but they did no

good, because they were founded upon no solid basis or principle further

than a sentimental feeling which ended without results.

Pilgrimages as at the present time carried out in the East chiefly

consist of Mahomedans from Constantinople and Asia Minor, who travel

by the steamers to the Arabian ports on the Red Sea, or join the great

caravans of pilgrims overland from Damascus and by other overland routes,

all centring in Mecca. The amount of personal discomfort and fatigue

which they endure is fatal to a large number of them, especially the

aged, of whom they seemed to me largely to consist. Indeed, I believe

among the chief promoters of plague, both physical and moral, are these

annual pilgrimages, and yet they continue as much as ever to be one

of the main obstructions to the spread of civilization and liberty in

the Eastern hemisphere. The pilgrimages of the Jews and of the several

Christian sects centre in Jerusalem, and of the Roman Catholics a

large portion in Rome, all chiefly at the Easter season, and the same

remarks to a great extent apply to them. All are efficient supports of

superstition and enemies of controversy; indeed, crusades and pilgrimages

have always been prominent examples and promoters of the sensuous and

ceremonial in religion as opposed to the inward and intellectual.

Superstition could not long survive discussion and controversy if openly

and fairly conducted in a spirit of charity, and hence all systems not

founded in truth are instinctively jealous of it. Mahomedanism, although

perhaps less vulnerable because less inconsistent with itself in the

abstract than the religion of many of the Christian sects, is less able

to bear the light of day without external support. A richly sensuous

or ceremonial religion has great attraction for the vulgar, and if

only artistically performed, equally great charms for the fashionable

and refined, simply because the education of the eye and the ear is

much more easy and pleasant than that of the understanding—hence the

strength and influence of such religions. For if once the sensuous is

admitted as an element in any degree whatever as rendering our worship

more acceptable to God, it obviously follows that worship ought to be

made as highly sensuous or ceremonial as is possible. In this view the

Church of Rome undoubtedly bears the palm of merit over all others,

Moslem and Christian, and defies with amazing success the criticisms

of its opponents, however well founded in truth. No doubt the religion

of Judaism was sensuous and ceremonial, but this was minutely defined

and strictly limited from every human addition. The Divine Teacher

emphatically tells us that the Father is no more to be worshipped in holy

places as such, nor with sensuous service, but in spirit and in truth,

for He seeketh only such to worship Him. All ceremonies whatever which

any Church may prescribe or habitually practise as a _necessary_ part of

worship must render that worship a Judaising one, and is a rag or relic

of a system which we are emphatically told is “abolished” and “vanished

away.” Whether priests are by any Church religiously required to wear a

white or a black or a red gown, or whether they be religiously forbidden

to do so, are, I think, alike breaches of the Divine precept—the only

one circumstance which seems to be enjoined is that “all things be done

decently and in order.”

NOTE F, page 145.—_Meaning of Proper Names_—_Original Fertility and

Beauty._

Mr. Blunt in his “Undesigned Coincidences” (a very interesting book)

has shown how important the most insignificant fact or allusion may

be if quite incidental and undesigned in confirming the veracity of

the historian. Applying this test as to the reality of the original

fertility and beauty of the Promised Land, I think these points so often

questioned nowadays are satisfactorily established. Taking the proper

names of persons and places alone a very large portion of them mean

“Brook,” “Fountain,” and the like; “Trees,” “Flowers,” “Fruit,” “Sheep,”

and the like; “Fruitful Field,” “Plantation,” “Green Herb,” “Thicket,”

“Pleasantness,” “Grape Clusters,” “Pomegranate,” “Honeycomb,” “Married

Land,” and the like. These I give merely as specimens. Besides this there

are also very numerous direct allusions made to these things unconnected

with names. For instance, I have seen it stated in an old scripture

catalogue of subjects and objects that words connected with Agriculture

(including such words as Planting, Fencing, Granary, and the like) occur

in the Bible more than two hundred times.

NOTE G, page 169.—_Philosophers_—_Sublime Presumption_—_Carlyle._

To me this digression appears to arise naturally out of our subject,

and will, I hope, so appear to my reader. There are Philosophers and

Philosophers, but all will listen with respect to the words of the

profound Sage of Chelsea in that wonderful book—his “Sartor Resartus”—a

perfect mine of intellectual golden nuggets:—

“Who am I; what is this ME? A Voice, a Motion, an Appearance;—some

embodied, visualised Idea in the Eternal Mind? _Cogito, ergo sum._

Alas, poor Cogitator, this takes us but a little way. Sure enough, I am;

and lately was not; but Whence? How? Whereto? The answer lies around,

written in all colours and motions, uttered in all tones of jubilee and

wail, in thousand-figured, thousand-voiced, harmonious Nature: but where

is the cunning eye and ear to whom that God-written Apocalypse will

yield articulate meaning? We sit as in a boundless Phantasmagoria and

Dream-grotto; boundless, for the faintest star, the remotest century,

lies not even nearer the verge thereof: sounds and many-coloured visions

flit round our sense; but Him, the Unslumbering, whose work both Dream

and Dreamer are, we see not; except in rare half-waking moments, suspect

not. This Dreaming, this Somnambulism, is what we on Earth call Life;

wherein the most indeed undoubtingly wander, as if they knew right hand

from left; yet _they only are wise who know that they know nothing_.

“What are your Axioms, and Categories, and Systems, and Aphorisms?

_Words, words._ High Air-castles are cunningly built of Words, the Words

well bedded also in good Logic-mortar; wherein, however, no knowledge

will come to lodge.” (Book I. Chap. 8.)

“My kind Mother, for as such I must ever love the good Gretchen, did

me one altogether invaluable service: she taught me, less indeed by

word than by act and daily reverent look and habitude, her own simple

version of the Christian Faith.” ... “Such things, especially in infancy,

reach inwards to the very core of your being; mysteriously does a Holy

of Holies build itself into visibility in the mysterious deeps; and

Reverence, the divinest in man, springs forth.” (Book II. Chap. 2.)

“But indeed Conviction, were it never so excellent, is worthless till it

convert itself into Conduct. Nay, properly Conviction is not possible

till then; inasmuch as _all Speculation is by nature endless, formless,

a vortex amid vortices_, only by a felt indubitable certainty of

Experience does it find any centre to revolve round, and so fashion

itself into a system. Most true is it, as a wise man teaches us, that

‘Doubt of any sort cannot be removed except by Action.’ On which ground,

too, let him who gropes painfully in darkness or uncertain light, and

prays vehemently that the dawn may ripen into day, lay this other precept

well to heart, which to me was of invaluable service: ‘_Do the Duty which

lies nearest thee_,’ which thou knowest to be a Duty! Thy second Duty

will already have become clearer.” (Chap. 9.)

“Deep significance of Miracles. Littleness of human Science: Divine

incomprehensibility of Nature. Custom blinds us to the miraculousness

of daily-recurring miracles; so do Names. Space and Time, appearances

only; forms of human Thought: A glimpse of Immortality. How Space hides

from us the wondrousness of our commonest powers; and Time, the divinely

miraculous course of human history.” (Book III. Chap. 8, Summary.)

NOTE H, page 170.—_Sabaste_—_Ancient History_—_Ruins_—_Herod_—_Crusaders._

Sabaste, which stands about three hours’ ride north-westward of Nabulous,

was in ancient times called Samaria, the capital city of the kingdom of

Israel, and was the head-quarters of the idolatry so solemnly denounced

by Isaiah; and here was the scene of Elijah’s sacrifice and destruction

of Baal’s prophets. It was captured after a three years’ siege and

destroyed by the Assyrians, B.C. 721, and the Israelites carried away

captive into that country. Seven centuries afterwards Herod the Great

restored and beautified the city, and Philip preached there. The remains

of a light colonnade, said to have been a thousand yards long, are still

to be seen very much decayed, and may probably have been the work of

Herod. There are some fine ruins (Romanesque) evidently of the age of

the Crusaders, especially the Church of St. John, now a Mosque, and

the Knights of St. John had a residence here. St. John the Baptist is

said to be buried here, but this is uncertain. From some points of this

rising ground the view of the Mediterranean is fine; numerous villages

are visible, with some terebinths and a very few palm-trees, and in the

district there are several places of interest, especially northwards,

where are the mountains of Gilboa, also Dothan, where it is said Joseph

was sold by his brethren. The soil is a rich black loam, watered by the

blood of many a battle, as indeed is the great plain by which foreign

foes generally invaded Palestine, and variously called the plains of

Esdraelon, of Jezreel, and of Megiddo. Southward is the plain of Sharon,

with an excellent soil extending as far as Jaffa, but there the sand

blown from the sea-beach seems gradually encroaching upon the cultivated

black soil—an evil which except under a Turkish Government might easily

be prevented.

NOTE I, page 199.—_Turkish “Toleration”_—_Inevitable

Decadence_—_Diplomacy._

The toleration secured for the Christian Faith in Syria is, if even

observed in the letter, certainly not so in the spirit. From a letter,

dated Damascus, 9th March, 1875, which I have seen, it may be inferred

that there at least the Governors “keep the word of promise to the ear

and break it to the hope.” It may be that the Sultan believes that his

government is tolerant—I think he likely does—but at Damascus “it is a

far cry” to Constantinople. I annex an extract of interest:—

“Of the £6, I have given Ps. 40 to assist _a converted Bedouin to escape_

to Egypt, and Ps. 25 each to four converted Misairiyeh, who were pressed

into the army _because they were converts and are not clothed and paid as

the others_. The remainder I shall disburse as occasion may arise.”

The religion of modern Mahomedans seems to be radically and utterly

intolerant, and whatever toleration may be evinced is entirely forced

from them by the exigences of government. As a nation they are evidently

in their last stage of decay, and as a government only await an

executioner. Without arts, manufactures, or agriculture, their revenues

only another name for plunder, and all the energy and industry of the

country dead, so far as the Turks are concerned, they rely solely upon

the political sufferance of their subject races. The industry of the

country is now dependent upon these; the Armenians and the Maronites

if united could any day dissolve the Empire. Almost the only industry

remaining in the land seems to rest with them, the Jews, and some

sections of the Arabs. But they are without ambition, only glad to be let

alone. The Druses are a very warlike sect, and seem liberally treated by

the Turks, probably used to keep the Maronites, their enemies, in check.

And so this overgrown Empire, although existing as formidable-looking as

ever, is really incapable and without resources, except external aid. It

may be again propped up for a year or two; but its rate of decadence—the

inevitable and the natural result of its social system—is too rapid to

enable even European diplomatists with the great powers of England at

their back any longer to say, “Let us have peace in our day and after

that—the deluge.” The Turkish Government plays off the Powers against

each other, as it has long done the Churches; but the Turks are now

otherwise utterly effete—nothing remains but their talent of diplomacy in

its worst meaning, and the one great statesman who foresaw this seems to

have been Prince Albert!

NOTE J, pages 202, 248, and 251.—_New Overland Route to

India_—_Bagdad_—_Trebizonde Route_—_Russian Trade_—_War._

The acquisition of the Suez Canal shares by the English Government, in

itself a doubtful advantage, has been hailed with no little satisfaction

by the public generally, showing, I think, how popular would be any

increased facilities for connecting India with this country, and

developing our trade therewith, and especially with Central Asia. Looking

at the map we find the Turkish possessions extend as far as the borders

of Persia, a country with which England is on friendly terms. Even in the

time of the present generation a large overland trade existed between

Europe and Bagdad through Syria, the centre point of the traffic being

Damascus. Caravans of which we have all read, consisting of long trains

of camels, carried on a large transit traffic chiefly in goods. From

Bagdad as a centre access was no doubt obtained to many countries, to

Persia on the east, as well as Turkestan on the north and Arabia on the

south. Bagdad is situated on the Tigris, and all of us have a vivid and

picturesque conception of its grandeur from reading in our younger days

the “Arabian Nights’ Entertainments;” a book which, however fabulous it

is, gives in the main, I think, a better description of Eastern Mahomedan

manners at their best than any other with which I am acquainted. This

trade has, however, during the present generation been greatly destroyed

by the grasping rapacity of the Turkish Government, which, either

directly or by their provincial Pashas, imposed heavy taxes upon this

traffic, which seems year by year diminishing.

The Pashalic of Bagdad was the original country of the Saracens. It is

500 miles in length by 350 in breadth, containing a population of about

two millions. It is watered by the rivers Euphrates and Tigris, which

unite their waters 150 miles south of the city, and afterwards fall

into the Persian Gulf. The inhabitants of the city at the present time

number nearly 50,000, principally Turks and Arabs, the others being Jews,

Armenians, Afghans, Persians, and Hindoos. The city is enclosed by a

wall nearly five miles in circumference, and its two parts are connected

by a bridge of boats across the Tigris. There are, travellers tell us,

numerous groves of date trees, and the city has a fine appearance from

the outside, but inside the streets are dirty, crowded, and unpaved,

somewhat like Damascus; there are few windows fronting the streets, which

have a very poor appearance, while the interiors are frequently very

richly decorated with mouldings and inlaid mirrors, and massive gilded

ceilings, generally vaulted, and in some sense recall the glories of the

good Haroun-al-Raschid. It is said to contain about one hundred mosques

and religious houses with numerous khans and bazaars, besides the Palace

of the Governor. The domes and minarets some travellers describe as

beautifully decorated, and even finer than those of Constantinople. In

the bazaars are shown the products of both Persia and Damascus, as well

as various European goods. This commerce has recently decreased since

Persia began to trade by direct caravans with Trebizonde, a flourishing

city on the Black Sea, and by ships per the Persian Gulf on the south.

Of late years Trebizonde has begun to rival even Alexandria’s commercial

importance, and its position has made it a great entrepot of commerce

between Eastern Europe, Russia, and the Black Sea on the one hand, and

Central Asia on the other. European goods (including some English, for

which, however, this route is very unfavourable) are carried by regular

steamers from Constantinople and the Danube, and those from Central

Asia come north by the return caravans. It is surprising that so very

little is known by our Chambers of Commerce of this important commerce.

Notwithstanding these facts, and the wretched Turkish Government,

Bagdad still carries on a valuable trade with Aleppo and Damascus in

manufactures of silks, red and yellow leather, and cotton and other

goods. Several steamers ply on the Tigris to and from Bagdad, and there

is one of the chief stations of the Anglo-Indian Telegraph.

If, as I have previously mentioned,[17] a railway were constructed to

connect the Mediterranean Sea with Bagdad, or rather with Basra below

the junction of the Tigris and the Euphrates, near the Persian Gulf,

a much shorter route to Bombay would be secured than by the Red Sea,

probably by six hundred miles, and considerably more in time would be

saved in the transit, because substituting railway for steamer the heavy

expenses of the Suez Canal would be avoided, as well as the dangers and

discomforts of the Red Sea voyage. But irrespective altogether of Indian

trade we would probably open up a valuable connexion with Arabia—that

important but hitherto sealed and unknown country—as well as with

Persia, Turkestan, and Central Asia generally. At present the Tigris and

Euphrates are navigable for hundreds of miles, even by vessels of 500

tons, and for much greater distances by smaller steamers and other craft.

Looking at the map it will be seen that Bagdad occupies an important

central position, situate about 250 miles inland from the Persian Gulf,

about 400 miles from the Caspian Sea—in possession of the Russians—and

about 800 miles from the Mediterranean; it is, or may be, in direct

commercial relations with all three.

A railway communication with the Mediterranean would probably not be

a bolder project than was the cutting of the Suez Canal, but it is

one not likely to be undertaken altogether by private enterprise. But

to England, in a national and political sense, it would probably be

both a bold and a wise undertaking, if promoted either directly or by

guarantees. Certainly under no other control could it be constructed so

well or so cheaply. If I remember aright, England recently spent eight

millions sterling to punish a madman in Abyssinia without grudging, and

surely as much would be well laid out where the prospect of a return in

commercial advantages, if not in revenue and great political benefit,

seem so apparent! I cannot speak as to the engineering difficulties

of such a line as I have already indicated, but I think few lines of

railway could be suggested more free of them. It cannot be doubted that

by such an undertaking the dominions of Turkey in Asia would be immensely

benefited; and her financial difficulties are become so very urgent, that

what from prejudice may hitherto have been impracticable may now become

possible. I think it might be found economical to have nearly the whole

plant finished in this country and ready for laying down, for there is

no timber in the East; but, of course, this is a question which could be

determined by careful survey.

The country in the route is in the occupation of Bedouin Arabs of

several petty tribes, nominally subject to Turkey, but more independent

in fact than our Highland clans were in their most powerful days. For

a very moderate “black-mail, paid in gold,” their protection might be

secured for the rails. As a class, they seem to be much less bigoted and

intolerant than the Moslems of the cities are, but yet very tenacious of

their territorial rights.

The scheme would of course be met with a thousand difficulties, as all

such schemes are, but English engineers would, I think, overcome those

which were real, and the imaginary ones would disappear, as in the

case of the Suez Canal. The Porte should be glad to sell the land for

money, and the Shah of Persia would perhaps find it his interest to

encourage it, nay, even to extend the rails to his capital and beyond

it. The European Powers, except perhaps Russia, would have no interest

in opposing it, for it could be made neutral ground for all nations,

as the Suez Canal is. The heavy goods traffic to India would not be

diverted from the Canal, although I think eventually most of the Bombay

passengers would be so. But the new line of rails would of course open

up a new goods traffic with Central Asia in both directions, which would

prove of immense importance to England, and such new openings for our

manufactures seem at present an absolute necessity for this country, if

we are to maintain our commercial position.

I think Mr. Reuter obtained a concession from the Shah to construct a

railway from the Caspian Sea through Persia, and I am not sure but this

work is quietly being carried out by the Czar. When completed, it will

draw Russian commerce from Astracan into Persia, and may eventually be

used in case of war against British India. This, if so, is only another

strong reason for England opening up such proposed line of railway from

the Mediterranean, say Port Said, to Bagdad and the Persian Gulf viâ

Damascus. Such an undertaking would dazzle the Asiatic mind, and raise

England to a position pre-eminent and commanding, and by a new link bind

Great Britain still closer to her great Indian Empire.

NOTE K, page 219.—_Dragomans’ Certificates._

These are not very dissimilar to such certificates at home. Mine,

I fear, was not quite so warmly expressed as customary. However, I

must say Braham seemed well known everywhere, and appeared to be held

in estimation. At Railway platforms, and in Bazaars, his embraces

of turbaned Easterns were numerous and warm. Dignified Egyptians,

Syrians, and Turks alike shared his friendship—not excepting even the

green-turbaned Moslems—so distinguished, either as descendants of the

Prophet’s family or as of peculiar sanctity from their performance of

certain devotions at the Kaaba in Mecca. Wherever these appeared, they

were invariably treated with great outward consideration and respect.

In bidding adieu to Braham we did so only in the English fashion by

staking of hands, but to a Syrian this would seem a somewhat cold and

unceremonious style of saying farewell. I once observed a traveller in

parting at Jerusalem with his donkey boy of the humblest Arab class,

present him, at his request, with a small broken cotton umbrella, utterly

valueless. Mosé was profuse in his thanks, and stooping down, “kissed the

hem of his garment.” Ceremony seems natural and easy to Easterns of all

ranks.

NOTE L, page 221.—_Beyrout Society_—_Seclusion of Females._

In the East generally we found banks, merchants’ offices, and post

offices the least prominent objects; indeed, they had often to be

searched out diligently. Bankers seemed carefully to conceal their money,

and to obtain gold for a draft was generally an hour’s occupation, for

it was literally “hid treasure.” There were a few exceptions, however,

and Beyrout certainly is far in advance of other Eastern cities in this

respect, as well as in several others. It has succeeded the once greatly

grander Tyre and Sidon—the royal cities of Phœnicia—as the shipping port

of Damascus, and is, indeed, partly built of stones transported from

their ruins. Few travellers now visit them: so little remains to be seen.

The old convent residence near Sidon of that singular Englishwoman,

Lady Hester Stanhope—whose sad romantic history once excited so much

interest—we did not visit.

Society at Beyrout is much better than in any other city we stopped at.

It is a healthy and pleasant residence, and many of the educated classes,

many foreign consuls and mercantile Europeans live there. The houses are

light and airy, and are more European in construction and convenience

than elsewhere. In our hotel the rooms were large and comfortable, but

with some Eastern inconveniences. There are no bells in the houses, and

our only method of summoning a servant was by clapping our hands from the

stair landing. There is so large an admixture of Christians that the

women of the Jews, and even of the Moslems, are, I think, less strictly

veiled than in Damascus or Jerusalem. The bazaars are well supplied with

European articles.

Our party had several introductions, and we had some opportunity of

seeing the houses and social life of the educated classes. They are very

European in manners in many respects, but generally partook of Eastern

fashions as well, and their intercourse, except that of the Exchange, was

chiefly domestic, public amusements being very rare. I saw no evidence of

intercourse between the ladies of the Christian residents and those of

the Moslem, and here I would have expected it if anywhere.

The habit of seclusion of the females is, I believe, partly one of

fashion, but, I think, is not by any means really liked or preferred by

many of them. One day when in Egypt, a fellow-traveller of our hotel,

just as he had finished dressing for dinner in his room, hearing a

peculiar sound in the street, looked down from his window. It was an

Egyptian funeral, which he had only once before seen. The body was placed

upon a bier, a flat, oblong board, and covered with a pall, not a black

one. This was borne aloft by four Arabs; six walked before it, and as

many women followed singing a kind of wailing chant. At the same time,

just opposite to him on the second floor of a superior clans of house,

a lady pushed open the latticed casement of her room window, no doubt

to see the funeral procession pass. When it did he, in retiring from

his position at the window, naturally looked across the street at the

opposite window. All at once, as if she had not observed him before, she

thrust up her veil with unnecessary haste, with probably more of coquetry

than offended modesty, for which there seemed no occasion. A very similar

incident occurred to me at Damascus on the occasion of the procession of

the governor with a German prince through the city. On that occasion

a Moslem lady opened her lattice to enable her children and herself to

view the crowd. The sun was shining into her room, whereas I was in the

shade, not over seventeen feet distant, so I obtained an excellent view

of her room, which seemed an Eastern parlour rather than a harem. It was

richly furnished, and the couches and pillows were luxurious-looking. On

a low table or cushion a piece of bright green silk was spread as if she

had been sewing. Her dress and that of the children, two girls and a boy,

were also very pretty. I saw no reason for leaving my position; but when

my presence was pointed out by one of the children, she suddenly closed

the lattice, probably having no veil at hand. I think, however, by this

time the procession had passed. On another occasion, when driving out of

Cairo, we stopped to pay the toll of the new iron bridge on the Nile.

Two of us who were seated on the off side of the carriage observed the

wife of the toll collector (who seemed to be in waiting with her lord’s

dinner) deliberately remove her veil for our benefit, and she certainly

improved her appearance very much thereby. No one else could have seen

her movement, and the moment the carriage again started the veil was

quickly replaced. These incidents appeared to me to evince that the veil

is really no favourite with the wearers. Paying toll, or any other money

transaction in the East, needs time, and probably the jealous Turk might

have been quicker had he known his prisoner was meanwhile revealing her

face to “infidel” eyes.

Beyrout, Sidon, and Tyre were all famous cities of Phœnicia, the

first queen of the sea and centre of commerce and the arts. Except in

Scripture and Homer, her history and literature are lost, but traces of

her greatness are found almost everywhere. Evidently the discovery of

Britain, the Canary Islands, and the first circumnavigation of Africa

were hers. Her ships’ anchors were of silver, and her wealth in all

precious metals and “purple” seems fabulous. Many of the discoveries

and inventions of modern science and art seem to have been known to her

nearly three thousand years ago. Her religion, originally sun or fire

worship, gradually degenerated to that of Moloch! and decadence began

with too much luxury in the days of Solomon. England now seems to have

acquired her maritime pre-eminence.

NOTE M, page 232.—_The Charm of Eastern Travel_—_Progress of the Race._

There is, however, another and higher aspect of this matter. I mean the

moral and spiritual, reaching beyond the visible—although suggested

by, and continually arising out of it—a region in which “the mind that

can wander through eternity” may roam at large, calling up historical

personages and events long ago forgotten; revelling and luxuriating

undisturbed amidst thoughts, feelings, and speculation of other

days—holding converse with one’s own heart, and rehearsing scenes long

since covered over with the mental dust of our working everyday life.

Nor is such retrospection at all unpleasant; on the contrary, one feels

lifted into a higher atmosphere, as it were—holding converse with ancient

worthies, with the sages of our school books and the excellent of the

earth of all ages. Our youthful dreams re-open their grand panoramas, and

we mentally hold converse with “friends in council”—models of Christian

truth, magnanimity, and unselfishness; although, on waking up, we may

find difficulty in meeting such men among the bustling throng which

jostle us in the way; or, if successful, do we not—

“As pilgrims, sigh,

Some cool green spot to meet,

But to pass by!”

The scenes of Eastern travel are continually calling up such mental

pictures, and out of a very little incident or scene the mind readily

spreads out a map of history in motion, which seems to unfold itself

into dimensions all but illimitable. The Sacred Record becomes illumed,

and its scenery indelibly printed upon the mind, leading on to mental

enjoyment of the highest class, surely not unprofitable. I think some

such feeling suggested to the poet his “quiet hermitage,” and if it were

possible, which is very questionable, might almost realize his boast—“My

mind to me a kingdom is.”

A single example will perhaps best illustrate my meaning under this

head:—Standing in “Pilate’s Judgment Hall” at Jerusalem, the mind readily

pictures to itself that most remarkable private interview between

Jesus and Pilate eighteen hundred years ago—between the representative

of earthly government and Him “by whom kings rule and princes decree

justice.” Begun by the regal Epicurean in a half kindly patronizing

way, how completely does their respective positions change—the culprit

calmly assuming the place of the judge, and questioning the questioner!

Evasion is tried in vain. Then comes forth with mysterious solemnity

the gracious but incisive sentence—“For this cause came I into the

world”—and “Every one that is of the Truth heareth My voice.” Brief as

the narrative is, the mind dwells upon the scene, and sees this awed

Roman—the representative of this world’s greatness—thoroughly discomfited

and conscience-stricken, turning away with an affected sneer. Something

here quite beyond all precedent, yet imagination may fill up the blanks

in their most minute details. His wife—his own half-superstitious

dread—that washing of his hands—his secret struggle with his own sense

of justice—his vain resolution to be neutral—his declaration of the

prisoner’s innocence; and then, and then—marvellous inconsistency—his

loss of moral courage to do the right! finally handing over this KING to

his murderers, with an “Ecce Homo.” Alas! poor Pilate was evidently not

“of the Truth.”

And now in bidding adieu to the East and its marvellous ruins, this

thought impressed me, as it had done before when gazing at the Egyptian

Sphinx, perhaps the most ancient of them all—How can we, standing before

her ancient works of art, entertain the idea that the improvement and

civilization of our race have been progressive, and that to trace mankind

backward leads us down to barbarism? Taking the most ancient writers,

Moses and Homer, the same feeling prevails. Is it possible to think of

Joseph the Governor of Egypt, or of the patriarch Job as half-educated

savages? or of Sarah or Rebekah as less noble and refined than the most

educated Sultana of our own day? Improvement is evidently not continuous

nor in a straight line, or, at least, has not been so in the past,

judging from the glimpses we have got of the prehistoric ages. It may

have been in cycles, but neither evident nor continuous.

THE END.

ADDENDA AND ERRATA.

Page 2, line 14, after “stand point,” _add_ “This statement is made

neither with a view to disarm nor to provoke criticism. Some of the

learned may not disdain to look into the ‘PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS’ which the

East—its scenes, its associations, and present condition, made upon even

a common-place English tourist of ordinary intelligence and observation,

if original and honestly expressed. My aim is, so far as I may, to

interest in the East ordinary readers like myself, those especially to

whom time is important, and thus induce them to read the larger works of

the great writers—some, perhaps, in view of undertaking a similar tour,

to see for themselves. I believe that these countries will now more and

more command public attention, and hence my anxiety to make my little

book at least _readable_. If very condensed, and so sententious as _at

first sight to seem_ presumptuous in style, the reader will kindly keep

in view that it neither is nor pretends to be the work of a Historian,

a Traveller, a Philosopher, or a Literateur, but only the personal

impressions of a casual Tourist—not an imitator, but an admirer of all

the four.”

Page 3, line 15, _read_ “Rome is not disappointing, even at first sight,

as most of the Wonders of the World are,”—&c.

Page 5, line 14, _read_, “Of the paintings I came to appreciate

in such measure, I suppose, as an eye uneducated to art may, ‘The

Transfiguration,’ ‘The St Cecilia,’ one of the ‘Madonnas,’ a ‘St Agnes,’

and the ‘Ecce Homo,’—Guido’s, I think.”

Page 12, line 20, _for_ “The most remarkable feature of the city,” _read_

“To a stranger just landed from England, the most novel feature of the

streets is, I think,” &c.

Page 13.—“Pompey’s Pillar.”—This paragraph should _read_ thus:—“Neither

the Pompey’s Pillar nor the Cleopatra Needle of our schooldays exists.

The very fine pillar, formerly misnamed ‘Pompey’s’ is a Corinthian

monolith of red granite, standing upon a small elevated rock,

considerably outside the modern city on the south, and is the most

prominent object in the landscape, and a landmark for ships. It was

erected in honour, not of Pompey, but of the Emperor Diocletian, as

appears from a Greek inscription upon its base. The so called “Needle”

obelisk, which lies prostrate on the margin of the Mediterranean

waves and its erect companion adjacent, are also granite monoliths,

considerably smaller—about seven feet on the side, at the base. It

has been ascertained that they date many centuries before the days of

Cleopatra, and probably as far back as the ancient Pharaohs.”

Page 39, last line, after “otherwise,” _read_ “called On, and sometimes

Aven (as in Ezekiel, where also Memphis is called Noph)” &c.

Page 77, last sentence, after “the Arabs,” _add_ “In Arabia there is

no national government; but the country is held by several States or

Tribes, powerful and independent; and while of these the Wahabees are the

strictest and most intolerant of all Moslems, the others are generally in

religion just the reverse—indeed, it appears that of all Moslem countries

Arabia, the birthplace of Mahomet, is at heart the least Mahomedan! The

people are ready to receive new ideas; but despising all idolatry, and

extremely jealous of foreigners, especially of Europeans. The consequence

being that this, in part extremely fertile country is shut against the

world, and barred against all progress and even internal improvement.”

Page 114, line 13, _for_ “position” _read_ “portion.”

Page 124, line 19, _for_ “east” _read_ “west.”

Page 136, line 16, after “was” _read_ “I somedays thought like riding

over a stone quarry or alternately climbing and descending great stair

steps—as often at an angle of thirty-five degrees or more as otherwise.”

Page 158, last line, _for_ “north-eastward” _read_ “north-westward.”

Page 169, line 5, after “visible.” _add_ “At all events, we the mere

scholars, should, I think, wait with patience until our great masters of

science (not their apprentices) have discussed and agreed generally upon

some system which we can at least study with deliberation.”

Page 238, line 9, after “East.” _add_ “Not a politician certainly, but a

very private citizen, I wish to ask my readers to consider whether Great

Britain has not been all along inadvertently maintaining a monstrous

incubus of delusion and tyranny upon many millions of oppressed peoples.

Two Napoleons tried to act the part of a Providence to France; we know

the result! Is there no risk of the Turks supposing that our great

country is so acting and must continue so to act for them—no matter what

our professions to the contrary, or even our wishes, may be?”

Page 249, line 3, after “indulgence” _add_ “Their bravery and

fearlessness of death in the field of battle frequently noticed, is, as

has been remarked, not surprising when we consider that every sincere

Moslem is assured that, if he falls in battle, fighting for the true

faith, he is immediately admitted into paradise—a paradise, too, exactly

suited to his taste. Some other religious give a similar assurance, but

then there is the fear of some dread purgatory to pass through! This

assurance formerly made the Moslem armies almost invincible, but now if,

as many think, their soldiers are no longer unanimously inspired with

the old strong faith and zeal, they will probably prove less formidable

warriors in the future.”

⁂ Had the rapidly rising excitement about Turkish affairs been foreseen,

some of the foregoing pages would not have been published in so

“off-hand” a style, or without some corroborative evidence—not because

they are untrue or were then unwarranted; but simply because, to some

readers who do not observe their date, they may seem very uncalled for,

and the presumptuous attempt of a non-literary pen to enter the lists in

a great controversy in which the ablest minds and pens on both sides will

be employed. So, to strengthen and confirm the several assertions he has

made regarding Turkish oppressions and misrule and their causes, he begs

reference to “_Palgrave’s Arabia_,” Macmillan, 1866.[18] That book he has

not seen till now, and is gratified to find how very much that great work

agrees with this little tourist book, confirming its views especially

on that subject, most amply; and perhaps no one has had better means of

observation than this accomplished English Traveller and Eastern Linguist.

[Illustration]

FOOTNOTES

[1] See Note A.

[2] See Note B.

[3] See Note C.

[4] See Note D.

[5] See Note E.

[6] See Note F.

[7] See Note G.

[8] See Note H.

[9] See Note I.

[10] See Note J.

[11] See Chapter vi.—Postscript.

[12] See Note K.

[13] See Note L.

[14] See Note M.

[15] See Note J.

[16] See Note J.

[17] Page 202.

[18] Vol. I pp. 24, 31, 128, 175, 276, 299, 369, 377, 433, 435. Vol. II

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