SKETCH OF RED RIVER SETTLEMENT.
RED RIVER--SOILS--CLIMATE--PRODUCTIONS--SETTLEMENT OF RED
RIVER, THROUGH LORD SELKIRK, BY HIGHLANDERS--COLLISION BETWEEN
THE NORTH-WEST AND HUDSON'S BAY COMPANIES--INUNDATION--ITS
EFFECTS--FRENCH HALF-BREEDS--BUFFALO-HUNTING--ENGLISH
HALF-BREEDS--INDIANS--CHURCHES--SCHOOLS--STORES--MARKET FOR
PRODUCE--COMMUNICATION BY LAKES.
Red River rises in swamps and small lakes in the distant plains of the
south; and after receiving a number of tributary streams that serve to
fertilize and beautify as fine a tract of land as the world possesses,
discharges itself into the eastern extremity of Lake Winnipeg in
lat. 50°. The climate is much the same as in the midland districts of
Canada; the river is generally frozen across about the beginning of
November, and open about the beginning of April. The soil along the
banks of the river is of the richest vegetable mould, and of so great
a depth that crops of wheat are produced for several years without the
application of manure. The banks produce oak, elm, maple, and ash; the
woods extend rather more than a mile inland. The farms of the first
settlers are now nearly clear of wood; an open plain succeeds of from
four to six miles in breadth, affording excellent pasture. Woods and
plains alternate afterwards until you reach the boundless prairie.
The woods produce a variety of delicious fruits, delighting the
eye and gratifying the taste of the inhabitants; cherries, plums,
gooseberries, currants, grapes, and sasgatum berries in great
abundance. Coal has been discovered in several places, and also salt
springs.
Lord Selkirk having been made acquainted with the natural advantages
of this favoured country by his North-West hosts in Montreal,
determined forthwith on adopting such measures as might ensure to
himself and heirs the possession of it for ever. Accordingly, on his
return to England, he purchased Hudson's Bay Company's stock to an
amount that enabled him to control the decisions of the Committee;
and thus, covered by the shield of the charter, he could carry on his
premeditated schemes of aggression against the North-West Company,
with some appearance of justice on his side.
With the view of carrying out these schemes, he proceeded to the North
of Scotland, and prevailed on a body of Highlanders to emigrate to Red
River. To induce them to quit their native land, the most flattering
prospects were held out to them; the moment they set their foot in
this land of promise, the hardships and privations to which they had
hitherto been subject, would disappear; the poor man would exchange
his "potato patch" for a fine estate; the gentleman would become a
ruler and a judge in--Assineboine! Who could doubt the fulfilment
of the promises of a British peer? His Lordship, therefore, soon
collected the required number of emigrants--for the Highlander of the
present day gladly embraces any opportunity of quitting a country that
no longer affords him bread.
At the period in question, Red River district furnished the principal
part of the provisions required by the North-West Company, and was a
wilderness, inhabited only by wandering Indians, and abounding in the
larger animals--elk and rein-deer in the woods, and buffalo in the
plains.
As Red River flows into Lake Winnipeg, which discharges itself by
Neilson's river into Hudson's Bay, and could therefore be included
within the territory granted by the charter, our noble trader
concluded that, by taking formal possession of the country, he would
obtain the right of expelling other adventurers, merely by warning
them off the Company's grounds; and that, if the warning were
disregarded, he could claim the aid of Government to enforce his
rights, and thus ruin the North-West Company at a blow. His Lordship's
Governor was therefore instructed to issue a proclamation, prohibiting
the North-West Company by name, and all others, from carrying on
any species of trade within Red River district, and ordering such
establishments as had been formed to be abandoned.
The North-Westers read the proclamation, and--prosecuted their
business as before. In such circumstances quarrels were unavoidable,
but they were generally settled with _ink_; a collision ultimately
took place that led to the shedding of blood. The North-Westers had
collected a large supply of provisions at their dépôt, and were
about to forward it to the place of embarkation, when they were
informed--falsely, as it afterwards appeared,--that the Governor
intended to waylay and seize the provisions. A report, equally false,
was brought to the Governor, that the North-Westers had assembled a
strong force of half-breeds to attack the fort. These lying rumours
led to an unhappy catastrophe.
The Governor sent out scouts to watch the North-West party;
and ascertaining that they were on their march with an unusual
force,--which they had brought in order to repel the attack which they
supposed was to be made upon them,--he seized his arms, and marched
with his whole party to meet them. The North-Westers seeing them
approach, halted, and standing to their arms, sent forward one of
their number to demand whether Mr. Semple and his party were for peace
or war.
During the interview a shot was fired--it is a matter in dispute to
this day who fired it--the half-breeds immediately poured a volley
into the ranks of their opponents, and brought down nearly all the
gentlemen of the party, including the unfortunate Governor; the
remainder fled to the fort, so closely pursued, that friend and foe
entered together. Thus the poor settlers found themselves suddenly
surrounded by all the horrors of war; their anticipated paradise
converted into a field of blood; husbands and brothers killed; their
little property pillaged, and their persons in the power of their
enemies.
An arrangement, however, was entered into by the rival Companies,
that allowed the emigrants to take possession of the lands allotted
to them, and in the course of a few years their labour had made a
sensible impression on the forest. Cattle were sent out from England;
pigs and poultry followed, and honest Donald was beginning to find
himself at his ease, when, lo! all his dreams of future wealth and
happiness vanished in a moment. Red River overflowed its banks,
and inundated the whole settlement. This extraordinary flood caused
immense loss; it overthrew houses, swept away the cattle, and utterly
ruined the crops of the season. The buffaloes, however, proved
abundant, and afforded a supply of provisions enough to prevent
starvation, and the settlers soon recovered from the effects of this
misfortune. Another calamity followed--the caterpillar appeared--at
first in small numbers, afterwards in myriads, covering the whole
land, and eating up "every green thing," and thus the crops were
destroyed a second time; but the consequences were not so severely
felt as formerly; the preceding season had proved extremely abundant,
and a sufficient quantity remained to supply the failure of this year.
Since that time the colony has advanced rapidly, enjoying undisturbed
peace; industry has its sure reward in the abundance of all the
necessaries of life which it procures.
Since the coalition took place, Red River has become the favourite
retreat of the Company's servants, especially of those who have
families; here they obtain lands almost at a nominal price. A lot of
one mile in length and six chains in breadth, costs only 18l.; and
they find themselves surrounded by people of congenial habits with
themselves, the companions of their youth, and fellow-adventurers;
those with whom they tugged at the oar, and shared the toil of the
winter march; and when they meet together to smoke the social pipe,
and talk of the scenes of earlier days, "nor prince nor prelate" can
enjoy more happiness.
The last census, taken in 1836, gave the population at 5,000 souls; it
may now (1845) amount to 7,000. Of this number a very small proportion
is Scotch, about forty families, and perhaps 300 souls. The Scotch
carried with them the frugal and industrious habits of their country;
the same qualities characterise their children, who are far in advance
of their neighbours in all that constitutes the comforts of life.
These advantages they owe, under the blessing of Providence, to their
own good management; yet, notwithstanding this, and notwithstanding
that they are a quiet and a moral people, they are objects of envy and
hatred to their hybrid neighbours; and thus my industrious and worthy
countrymen, in the possession of almost every other blessing which
they could desire, are still unhappy from the malice and ill-will they
meet with on every side; and being so inferior in numbers, they must
submit to the insults and abuse they are daily exposed to, while the
blood boils in their veins to resent them. Thus situated, many of them
have abandoned the settlement and gone to the United States, where
they enjoy the fruits of their industry in peace.
The French half-breeds and retired Canadian voyageurs occupy the upper
part of the settlement. The half-breeds are strongly attached to the
roving life of the hunter; the greater part of them depend entirely on
the chase for a living, and even the few who attend to farming take a
trip to the plains, to feast on buffalo humps and marrow fat. They sow
their little patches of ground early in spring, and then set out for
the chase, taking wives and children along with them, and leaving only
the aged and infirm at home to attend to the crops.
When they set out for the plains, they observe all the order and
regularity of a military march; officers being chosen for the
enforcement of discipline, who are subject to the orders of a chief,
whom they style "M. le Commandant." They take their departure from the
settlement about the latter end of June, to the number of from 1,200
to 1,500 souls; each hunter possesses at least six carts, and some
twelve; the whole number may amount to 5,000 carts. Besides his riding
nag and cart horses, he has also at least one buffalo runner, which he
never mounts until he is about to charge the buffalo. The "runner" is
tended with all the care which the cavalier of old bestowed on his
war steed; his housing and trappings are garnished with beads and
porcupine quills, exhibiting all the skill which the hunter's wife or
belle can exercise; while head and tail display all the colours of the
rainbow in the variety of ribbon attached to them.
The "Commandant" directs the movements of the whole cavalcade: at a
signal given in the morning by sound of trumpet--_alias_, by blowing
a horn,--the hunters start together for their horses; while the women
and servants strike the tents, and pack up and load the baggage. The
horses being all collected, a second blast forms the order of march;
the carts fall in, four abreast; the hunters mount; and dividing into
their different bodies, one precedes the baggage, another closes
the line, and a third divides in both flanks. The third blast is
the signal for marching. They halt about two hours at noon, for the
purpose of allowing their cattle time to feed; and the same order is
observed as in starting in the morning. When they encamp at night,
the carts are placed in a circle; and the tents are pitched within
the enclosed space, so as to form regular streets; the horses are
"hobbled" and turned loose to graze.
All the arrangements for the night being completed, guards are
appointed to watch over the safety of the camp, who are relieved
at fixed hours. In this manner they proceed until they approach the
buffalo grounds, when scouts are sent out to ascertain the spot where
the herd may be found. The joyful discovery being made, the scouts
apprise the main body by galloping backwards and forwards, when a halt
is immediately ordered. The camp is pitched; the hunters mount their
runners; and the whole being formed into an extended line, with the
utmost regularity, they set forward at a hand gallop; not a soul
advances an inch in front of the line, until within gun-shot of the
herd, when they rein up for a moment. The whole body then, as if with
one voice, shout the war whoop, and rush on the herd at full gallop;
each hunter, singling out an animal, pursues it until he finds an
opportunity of taking sure aim; the animal being dispatched, some
article is dropped upon it that can be afterwards recognised. The
hunter immediately sets off in chase of another, priming, loading, and
taking aim at full speed. A first-rate runner not unfrequently secures
ten buffaloes at a "course;" from four to eight is the usual number.
He who draws the first blood claims the animal, and each individual
hunter is allowed whatever he kills.
The moment the firing commences, the women set out with the carts, and
cut up and convey the meat to the camp; where it is dried by means of
bones and fat. Two or three days are required for the operation, when
they set out again; and the same herd, perhaps, yields a sufficient
quantity to load all the carts, each carrying about one thousand
pounds,--an enormous quantity in the aggregate; yet the herd is
sometimes so numerous that all this slaughter does not seem to
diminish it.
The buffalo hunt affords much of the excitement, and some of the
dangers, of the battle-field. The horses are often gored by the
infuriated bulls, to the great peril--sometimes to the loss--of the
rider's life; serious accidents too happen from falls. There are no
better horsemen in the world than the Red River "brulés;" and so long
as the horse keeps on his legs, the rider sticks to him. The falls
are chiefly occasioned by the deep holes the badger digs all over the
prairies; if the horse plunges into one of these, both horse and man
roll on the ground. Fatal accidents, also, occasionally happen from
gun shots in the _melée_; and it is said, I know not with what truth,
that a wronged husband, or a supplanted lover, sometimes avails
himself of the opportunity presented by the _melée_ to miss the
buffalo, and hit a friend--by _accident_.
A priest generally accompanies the camp, and mass is celebrated with
becoming solemnity on Sundays. The "brulés" attend, looking very
serious and grave until a herd of buffaloes appear; when the cry of
"La vache! la vache!" scatters the congregation in an instant; away
they scamper, old and young, leaving the priest to preach to the
winds, or perhaps to a few women and children. Two trips in the year
are generally made to the prairie; the latter in August. The buffalo
hunter's life assimilates more to that of the savage than of the
civilized man; it is a life of alternate plenty and want--a life
also of danger and inquietude. The Indians of the plain view the
encroachment of the strange race on their hunting grounds, with
feelings of jealousy and enmity. They are, accordingly, continually on
the alert; they attack detached parties and stragglers; they also set
fire to the prairies about the time the "brulés" set out for the hunt,
and by this means drive the game beyond their reach. Owing to this
circumstance, the "brulés" have returned with empty carts for these
two years past; and their only resource has been to betake themselves
to the woods, and live after the manner of the Indians. Could they
find a sure market for the produce of the soil, so as to remunerate
their labour, there can be little doubt but that they might be
gradually detached from the half-savage life they lead, and become as
steady and industrious as their neighbours.
The English half-breeds, as the mixed progeny of the British are
designated, possess many of the characteristics of their fathers; they
generally prefer the more certain pursuit of husbandry to the chase,
and follow close on the heels of the Scotch in the path of industry
and moral rectitude. Very few of them resort to the plains, unless for
the purpose of trafficking the produce of their farms for the produce
of the chase; and it is said that they frequently return home better
supplied with meat than the hunters themselves.
The Indians who have been converted to the Protestant religion, are
settled around their respected pastor at the lower extremity of
the settlement, within twenty miles of the mouth of the river. The
Sauteux, of all other tribes, are the most tenacious of their own
superstitions; and it would require all the zeal and patience and
perseverance of the primitive teachers of Christianity to wean them
from them. But when convinced of his errors, the Sauteux convert is
the more steadfast in his faith; and his steadfastness and sincerity
prove an ample reward to his spiritual father for his pains and
anxiety on his behalf.
The Indian converts are entirely guided by their Missionary in
temporal as well as in spiritual things. When he first came among
them, he found their habits of indolence so deep-rooted, that
something more than advice was necessary to produce the desired
change. Like Oberlin, therefore, he set before them the example of a
laborious and industrious life; he tilled, he sowed, he planted, he
reaped with his own hands, and afterwards shared his produce with
them. By persevering in this, he succeeded in finally gaining them
to his views; and, at the present moment, their settlement is in as
forward a state of improvement as any of the neighbouring settlements.
They have their mills, and barns, and dwelling-houses; their horses,
and cattle, and well-cultivated fields:--a happy change! A few years
ago, these same Indians were a wretched, vagabond race; "hewers of
wood and drawers of water" for the other settlers, as their pagan
brethren still are; they wandered about from house to house,
half-starved, and half-naked; and even in this state of abject misery,
preferring a glass of "fire-water" to food and raiment for themselves
or their children.
There are at present three ministers of the episcopal communion at Red
River. The Scotch inhabitants attend the church regularly, although
they sigh after the form of worship to which they had been accustomed
in early youth; they, however, assemble afterwards in their own houses
to read the Scriptures, and worship God after the manner of their
fathers. There are also three Roman Catholic clergymen, including
a bishop;--good, exemplary men, whose "constant care" is not "to
increase their store," but to guide and direct their flocks in the
paths of piety and virtue. But, alas! they have a stiff-necked people
to deal with;--the French half-breed, who follows the hunter's life,
possesses all the worst vices of his European and Indian progenitors,
and is indifferent alike to the laws of God and man. There are,
in all, seven places of worship, three Roman Catholic, and four
Protestant, including two for the Indians.
The education of the more respectable families, particularly those
of the Company's officers, is well provided for at an institution
of great merit; the gentleman who presides over it being every
way qualified for the important trust. The different branches of
mathematical and classical learning are taught in it; and the school
has already produced some excellent scholars. In addition to the more
useful branches of female education, the young ladies are taught music
and drawing by a respectable person of their own sex. Thus we have,
in the midst of this remote wilderness of the North-West, all the
elements of civilized life; and there are there many young persons of
both sexes, well educated and accomplished, who have never seen the
civilized world. There are also thirteen schools for the children of
the lower class, supported entirely by the parents themselves.
The Company have here two shops (or stores), well supplied with every
description of goods the inhabitants can require; there are besides
several merchants scattered through the settlement, some of whom are
said to be in easy circumstances. The Company's bills constitute the
circulating medium, and are issued for the value of from one to twenty
shillings. Of late years, a considerable amount of American specie
has found its way into the settlement, probably in exchange for furs
clandestinely disposed of by the merchants beyond the line. The petty
merchants import their goods from England by the Company's ships; an
_ad valorem_ duty is imposed on these goods, the proceeds of which are
applied to the payment of the constabulary force of the colony. The
Company's charter invests it with the entire jurisdiction, executive
and judicial, of the colony. The local Governor and Council enact such
simple statutes as the primitive condition of the settlement requires;
and those enactments have hitherto proved equal to the maintenance
of good order. A court of quarter sessions is regularly held for the
administration of justice, and the Company have lately appointed a
Recorder to preside over it. It is gratifying to learn, that this
functionary has had occasion to pass judgment on no very flagitious
crime since his appointment.
In the work to which I have so frequently referred, it is mentioned,
that a "certain market is secured to the inhabitants by the demand
for provisions for the other settlements." If by "settlements" the
miserable trading posts be meant, as it must be, I know not on what
grounds such an affirmation is made. A sure market, forsooth! A single
Scotch farmer could be found in the colony, able alone to supply the
greater part of the produce the Company require; there is one, in
fact, who offered to do it. If a sure market were secured to the
colonists of Red River, they would speedily become the wealthiest
yeomanry in the world. Their barns and granaries are always full to
overflowing; so abundant are the crops, that many of the farmers could
subsist for a period of two or even three years, without putting a
grain of seed in the ground. The Company purchase from six to eight
bushels of wheat from each farmer, at the rate of three shillings per
bushel; and the sum total of their yearly purchases from the whole
settlement amounts to--
600 cwt. flour, first and second quality.
35 bushels rough barley.
10 half-firkins butter, 28 lbs. each.
10 bushels Indian corn.
200 cwt. best kiln-dried flour.
60 firkins butter, 56 lbs. each.
240 lbs. cheese.
60 hams.
Thus it happens that the Red River farmer finds a "sure market" for
six or eight bushels of wheat--and no more. Where he finds a sure
market for the remainder of his produce, Heaven only knows--I do not.
This much, however, I do know,--that the incomparable advantages this
delightful country possesses are not only in a great measure lost to
the inhabitants, but also to the world, so long as it remains under
the domination of its fur-trading rulers. In the possession of, and
subject to the immediate jurisdiction of the Crown, Assineboine would
become a great and a flourishing colony--the centre of civilization
and Christianity to the surrounding tribes, who would be converted
from hostile barbarians into a civilized and loyal people;--and thus
Great Britain would extend and establish her dominion in a portion
of her empire that may be said to have been hitherto unknown to her,
while she would open a new field for the enterprise and industry of
her sons.
In describing the advantages of this country, candour requires that I
should also point out its disadvantages. The chief disadvantage is the
difficulty of the communication with the sea, interrupted as it is by
shoals, rapids, and falls, which in their present state can only be
surmounted with incredible toil and labour. Yet there cannot be a
doubt that the skill of the engineer could effect such improvements as
would obviate the most, if not the whole, of this labour, and that at
no very great cost. The distance from the mouth of Red River to York
Factory is about 550 miles; 300 miles of this distance is formed of
lakes--(Lake Winnipeg, 250 miles in length, is navigable for vessels
of forty and fifty tons burden). The greater part of the river
communication might be rendered passable by Durham boats, merely
by damming up the rivers. Along the line of communication, many
situations may be found suitable for farming operations.