EXPLORING EXPEDITION THROUGH THE INTERIOR
OF LABRADOR--DIFFICULTIES--DEER-HUNT--INDIAN
GLUTTONY--DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY--PROVISIONS RUN
SHORT--INFLUENZA.
The Company having learned, through a pamphlet published by the
Moravian missionaries of Labrador, that the country produced excellent
furs, were induced by the laudable desire of "ameliorating the
condition of the natives," to settle it; and a party was accordingly
sent overland from Moose Factory to take possession in the summer of
1831. The Moravians, finding their intention thus anticipated, left
both the cure of souls and trade of furs to the Company.
Whatever may have been the Company's real motives in forming a
settlement in this quarter, the profits derived from it added but
little to the dividends; the substance that glittered at a distance
like gold proved to be but base metal. Beavers were nowhere to be
found; and although the martens brought an extraordinary high price,
they were far from plentiful; while the enormous expense of supplying
the district by sea, and supporting it on imported provisions,
rendered the "Ungava adventure" a subject of rather unpleasant
discussion among the partners, most of whom were opposed to the
measure from the first.
Mr. Simpson was, in fact, the prime mover of the project, and aware
of the discontent caused by its failure, determined on making every
effort to reduce the expense, and, if possible, to increase the
returns. Accordingly, I was directed to push outposts into the
interior, to support my people on the resources of the country, and at
the same time to open a communication with Esquimaux Bay, on the coast
of Labrador, with the view of obtaining in future my supplies from
thence by inland route; "there being no question of the practicability
of the rivers." So said not he who had seen those rivers.
Mr. Erlandson had traversed the country in the spring of 1834, and
represented to me the utter impossibility of carrying my instructions
into effect. Meantime, the Committee, having learned by despatches
from York Factory that the vessel intended for the business of the
district had been lost, and the other, in which I made my passage,
placed in so critical a situation as to render her safety in spring a
very doubtful matter, considered it advisable to provide for the worst
by freighting a small schooner to carry us out our supplies. This
vessel very unexpectedly made her appearance on the 22d of September,
and we thus found ourselves supplied with goods and provisions for two
years' consumption.
Having, as above mentioned, learned from Mr. Erlandson the
difficulties of the inland route, and also that a great number of the
natives had gone to Esquimaux Bay, with the intention of remaining
there, I considered it incumbent upon me to visit that quarter at an
early period of the winter, and I accordingly set out from Fort Chimo
on the 2d of January. I submit the following narrative of my journey
to the reader.
"_Tuesday, the 2d of January_, 1838.--I left Fort Chimo at eleven
A.M., accompanied by the following men, _viz._:--
"Donald Henderson, Henry Hay, and two Indian guides, who are to
accompany me throughout the journey; Pierre Neven and M. Ferguson
go part of the way, each driving a sled of two dogs, loaded with
provisions, the other men having sleds drawn by themselves.
"_Wednesday, the 3d._--Left our encampment before dawn of day.
Excessively cold--some of us got frost-bitten, but not severely. Our
principal guide, finding his companion unable to keep up with us,
set off to his lodge in quest of a substitute. Encamped early, having
proceeded about nine miles.
"_Thursday, the 4th._--Started at seven A.M. Reached High Fall Creek
at nine A.M. Halted to wait for our guide, who soon joined us, alone,
finding no person willing to accompany him. Resumed our march at
half-past nine; had not proceeded far, when we perceived that our
young guide, Pellican, was left considerably in the rear. We waited
till he overtook us, and the miserable creature appearing completely
exhausted with fatigue, we encamped at an early hour. Eight miles.
"_Friday, the 5th._--Lightened Pellican's sled, and set off at five
A.M.; fine weather, though sharp. Advanced sixteen miles.
"_Saturday, the 6th._--As the ice was covered with water close to our
encampment, it was deemed advisable to await the light of day. Set off
at eight A.M., but found it impossible to move forward in consequence
of the immense quantity of snow that had fallen during the night. It
continuing still to snow, and blowing a violent gale at same time, I
gave up the struggle. Advanced about a mile.
"_Sunday, the 7th._--Got up about three A.M., literally buried in
snow. Our blankets being wet, we waited in our encampment drying them
till eight o'clock, when we started with only half loads, with which
we intended to proceed to the first lake, and then return for the
remainder; but to our great satisfaction we soon discovered that the
tempest which had incommoded us so much last night had cleared the
ice of snow; we therefore returned for the property we had left; then
proceeding at a fine rate, having beautiful weather, we soon reached
the lake; when my guides, discovering a herd of deer on an adjacent
hill, immediately set off at a bound, followed by Pellican and my
two _brules_. I saw at once my day's journey was at an end, and
accordingly directed my encampment to be made. Our hunters joined us
in the evening with the choice parts of three deer they had killed.
Proceeded eight miles.
"_Monday, the 8th._--Very cold, tempestuous weather. Our progress was
much retarded by the great depth of snow in the woods through which
our route lay. Thirteen miles.
"_Tuesday, the 9th._--Blowing a hurricane; the cold being also
intense, we could not venture out on the ice without incurring the
risk of being frost-bitten; we therefore remained in our quarters,
such as they were, until the weather should moderate.
"_Wednesday, the 10th._--My guides appeared very unwilling to quit
their encampment this morning, pretending indisposition. They might
have been really ill; but the beastly manner in which they had been
gorging themselves for the past two days being well known to be the
cause of their illness, no one felt disposed to pity them. I therefore
sprang into their encampment, and pitching the remainder of their
choice morsels into the snow, drove them out before me. Travelled
through woods the whole day. Encamped at half-past three. Eighteen
miles.
"_Thursday, the 11th._--Started at five, A.M. Soon fell on a large
lake, on which we travelled till three, P.M., when we encamped. Thus
far the lake extends S.E. and N.W., being about two miles in width.
As Mr. Erlandson was the first European who had traversed these
inhospitable wilds, I had the gratification of giving his name to
the lake. It is reported by the natives to abound in fish of the best
quality; rein-deer are also said to be numerous at certain seasons of
the year. Proceeded fifteen miles.
"_Friday, the 12th._--Being immoderately cold, and the wind blowing
direct in our faces, we could not attempt travelling on the lake.
"_Saturday, the 13th._--Weather fine. Left Erlandson's Lake about one,
A.M.; it still stretched out before us as far as the eye could reach,
and cannot be less than forty miles in length; its medium breadth,
however, does not exceed two miles and a half. The circumjacent
country is remarkably well wooded, even to the tops of the highest
hills, and is reported by the natives to abound in martens. A few
industrious Indians would not fail to turn such advantages to good
account; but they can avail the Company very little, while the natives
alone are in possession of them. Went on twenty-four miles.
"_Sunday, the 14th._--Set off at five, A.M. Passed over several small
lakes; the country well wooded. Entered upon a small river about noon,
the banks covered with large pine. Encamped at three, P.M. Advanced
sixteen miles.
"_Monday, the 15th._--Took our departure at seven, A.M. Travelled
without halting the whole day. Eighteen miles.
"_Tuesday, the 16th._--Decamped at five, A.M.; the snow very deep in
the woods. Fell on Whale River at ten, A.M. The face of the country
presents scarcely any variety; from Erlandson's Lake to this river
it is generally well wooded, but afterwards becomes extremely
barren, nothing to be seen on both sides of the river but bare rocks.
Proceeded sixteen miles.
"_Wednesday, the 17th._--Started at five, A.M. Our route in the
morning led us through a chain of small lakes, and brought us out
again on Whale River, on which we travelled till four, P.M. The
appearance of the country much the same as described yesterday.
Proceeded eighteen miles.
"_Thursday, the 18th._--P. Neven being unable to travel from
indisposition, I resolved on passing the day to await the issue,
deeming his malady to be of no very serious nature. In the meantime
I took an exact account of my provisions which I found to be so far
reduced, that no further assistance was required for its conveyance. I
accordingly made the necessary arrangements to send the men back.
"_Friday, the 19th._--Early in the morning, P. Neven (being now
convalescent) and Mordoch Ferguson set off on their return, whilst I
and my party proceeded on our onward route. I retained a sled of dogs,
intending to drive them myself. We travelled eleven miles on Whale
River, then struck across the country to the eastward. Encamped at
four, P.M. Fourteen miles.
"_Saturday, the 20th._--The moon affording no longer light to find
our way in the night, we must now wait till daylight. Started at seven
A.M.; crossed a point of wood, chiefly larch, of a miserably small
growth; then came out on a large lake (comparatively speaking), on
which we travelled till four, P.M. Thirteen miles.
"_Sunday, the 21st._--Set off at seven A.M. About eleven, we fell on
the fresh tracks of a large herd of deer, which my guides carefully
examined; their experience not only enabling them to determine the
precise time they had passed, but the very spot where they were likely
to be found, which they affirmed was close to us. My dogs being very
much reduced, and not having the means of increasing their present
modicum of food, I determined on availing myself of an opportunity
which might not again occur of procuring a supply. The Indians
accordingly set off in quest of them, desiring us at their departure
to make no fire until the sun had reached a certain position in the
heavens which they pointed out to us. We made our encampment at the
time appointed, and were soon joined by our hunters, dragging after
them a fine doe; they had got only one shot at the herd, which
immediately took to the bare hills, where pursuit was in vain. Our
guides being encamped by themselves, I was curious to ascertain by
ocular evidence the manner in which the first kettle would be disposed
of, nor did I wait long till my curiosity was gratified. The cannibals
fell upon the half-cooked flesh with a voracity which I could not have
believed even savages capable of; and in an incredibly short space
of time the kettle was disposed of;--and this, too, after their usual
daily allowance, which is equal to, and sometimes exceeds, that of the
other men, who say they have enough. Proceeded seven miles.
"_Monday, the 22nd._--On examining the remains of the deer this
morning, I found my quadrupeds would benefit but little by my good
intentions and loss of time, our guides having applied themselves so
sedulously to the doe during the night, as to leave but little for
their canine brethren. We started at seven, A.M., the travelling very
heavy in the woods. About noon we came upon a large lake, where we
made better speed. Thirteen miles.
"_Tuesday, the 23rd._--Travelled through woods the greater part of the
day; encamped at four o'clock. Sixteen miles.
"_Wednesday, the 24th._--Decamped at seven, A.M. Our route lay through
swamps and small lakes, with strips of wood intervening. Martens
appear to be numerous, but beavers must be extremely rare, for we have
discovered no traces whatever of their existence anywhere along our
route, though innumerable small lakes and rivers, such as beavers
frequent, are to be met with in every direction; but the country
produces no food for them. At ten A.M. we arrived at a considerable
lake, where my guides told me we had reached the highest land. On
asking them if this were the lake where we intended to build, they
pointed to the south-west, saying it was four days' journey off in
that direction!--so far had I been led from the route I intended to
have followed, notwithstanding the perfect understanding I had with
my perfidious guides prior to our departure from the establishment.
Encamped at three, P.M. Twelve miles.
"_Thursday, the 25th._--Immediately on leaving our encampment, we
fell on a large river flowing to the north-east, which I took to be
George's River. We followed it for a short distance, and then directed
our course over bare hills. Encamped at three, P.M. Eleven miles.
"_Friday, the 26th._--Having passed the night in a clump of small
pines, which sheltered us from the inclemency of the weather, we
were not aware of the violence of the storm which was raging round
us, until, pursuing our route over a ridge of bare hills, we were
completely exposed to its fury. We found the cold intense, the wind
blowing in our faces, so that it was impossible to proceed. Observing
a hummock of wood close to us, we shaped our course for it, where we
were no sooner arrived, than it began to snow and drift. The few trees
to which we had retreated being far apart, and the wind blowing
with the utmost violence, we experienced the greatest difficulty in
clearing an encampment. The storm continuing unabated, we passed a
miserable day in our snow burrow. Two miles.
"_Saturday, the 27th._--Arose from our comfortless _couché_ at
half-past four. The snow having drifted over us, and being melted
by the heat of the fire in the early part of the night, we found our
blankets and capotes hard frozen in the morning. Thawing and drying
them occupied us till nine A.M., when we set off. Snow very deep.
Proceeded nine miles.
"_Sunday, the 28th._--Set off at seven, A.M. Snow still increasing
in depth, and our progress decreasing in proportion. At one, P.M., we
came upon a large river flowing to the north, on which we travelled a
short distance; then followed the course of a small stream running in
an easterly direction. Leaving this stream, our route lay over marshes
and small lakes; the country flat, yielding dwarf pine intermixed with
larch. Encamped at half-past four; advanced eight miles.
"_Monday, the 29th._--Started at seven. Appearance of the country much
the same as yesterday. Fifteen miles.
"_Tuesday, the 30th._--Decamped at seven. Weather mild, and walking
heavy. Our principal guide appears rapidly declining in strength,
which does not surprise me, considering the laborious duty he has
had to perform; always beating the track a-head, without being once
relieved by his worthless associate. Fourteen miles.
"_Wednesday, the 31st._--Started at seven. Still very mild. Observed a
few small birch trees. Encamped at four, P.M. Fifteen miles.
"_Thursday, the 1st of February._--Started at the usual hour. We have
been travelling through a very rough country for these two days past.
The fact is, that our guides, having only passed here in summer,
are unacquainted with the winter track. We are, therefore, evidently
pursuing a circuitous course, which, with every other disadvantage,
subjects us to the risk of running short of provisions,--a contingency
which our reduced stock warns us to prepare for ere long. We can
afford no more food to the dogs; their load is now transferred to the
men's sleds. Fifteen miles.
"_Friday, the 2d._--Decamped at seven, A.M. Pursued our route over
extensive swamps and small lakes, where there is scarcely any wood to
be seen. The face of the surrounding country being level, the least
elevation commands a most extensive view; but the eye turns away in
disgust from the cheerless prospect which the desolate flats present.
I deemed it expedient to curtail our allowance of provisions this
evening. Eighteen miles.
"_Saturday, the 3d._--Set off at seven, A.M. Reached Michigama Lake at
one, P.M.; on which we travelled till five o'clock, when we encamped
on an island. Proceeded twenty miles.
"_Sunday, the 4th._--Left our encampment at the usual hour. Halted
for our scanty meal at ten, A.M. After an hour's delay we resumed our
march, and encamped at four, P.M., on an island near the mainland on
the east side of the lake, having performed about twenty miles. I here
repeated to the Indians my earnest wish to proceed to Esquimaux Bay,
by North River, which takes its rise in this lake. They replied that
nothing could induce them to comply with my wishes, as inevitable
starvation would be the consequence; no game could be found by
the way, and we would have, therefore, to depend solely on our own
provisions, which were barely sufficient for the shortest route. I
had thus the mortification to find, that I should entirely fail in
accomplishing the main object I had in view in crossing the country.
"_Monday, the 5th._--Decamped at seven, A.M. Reached the mainland at
half-past eight; then ascended a river flowing from the north-east,
which discharges itself into Michigama Lake, Pellican taking the
lead, being the only one acquainted with this part of the country. The
Indians shot an otter. No wood to be seen, but miserably small pine,
thinly scattered over the country. Encamped at Gull Lake. Fifteen
miles.
"_Tuesday, the 6th._--Left our encampment at seven. Our guide lost his
way about noon, which after an hour's search, he succeeded in finding;
when we resumed our slow march, Pellican proceeding at a snail's pace,
which neither threats nor entreaties could in the least accelerate.
Encamped at five, P.M. Eleven miles.
"_Wednesday, the 7th._--Started at half-past six, A.M. Arrived at the
site of an extensive Indian camp, which appeared to have been recently
occupied. Our guides knowing the Indians to be their friends from
Ungava, and their trail leading in the direction of our route,
required no longer to be urged on. An immediate impulse was given to
Pellican's sluggish motions, increasing his speed to such a degree,
that it required our utmost exertions to keep up with him. Encamped
near a high fall on North-West River, which is here walled in by
inaccessible precipices on both sides. The view above the fall is
interrupted by stupendous rocks; the natives say that the appearance
of the river and surrounding country is the same from this fall to
Michigama Lake; the river is deemed to be impracticable for any kind
of craft. Eighteen miles.
"_Thursday, the 8th._--Set off at seven, A.M. Fine travelling on
the river. We passed two portages and rapids. Encamped at forty-five
minutes past five. Twenty miles.
"_Friday, the 9th._--Decamped at seven. Travelling good; the banks
of the river high and precipitous, and almost destitute of wood. We
observed, however, a few birches. Encamped at six, P.M. Twenty miles.
"_Saturday, the 10th._--Started at eight, A.M. About noon we arrived
at a wide expansion of the river, where it suddenly bends to the west.
Here we again quitted the river, directing our course to the eastward.
The navigation of this part of the river is represented by the natives
to be impracticable, and similar to the upper part. Our snow-shoes
being the worse for wear, we encamped at an early hour for the purpose
of repairing them. Advanced fifteen miles.
"_Sunday, the 11th._--Decamped at seven, A.M. Pursued our course
through the roughest country I ever travelled. The appearance of it
struck me as resembling the ocean when agitated by a storm, supposing
its billows transformed into solid rock. We commenced ascending
and descending in the morning, and kept at it till night. The men
complained much of fatigue. Proceeded fourteen miles.
"_Monday, the 12th._--The weather being so much overcast that we
could not find our way, we remained in our encampment till eight, A.M.
Encamped at a quarter past five. Fifteen miles.
"_Tuesday, the 13th._--Set off at half-past seven, amidst a tremendous
snow-storm, which continued without intermission the whole day;
we sunk knee-deep in the snow, and found it not the most pleasant
recreation in the world. About noon we passed a hut, which my guide
told me had been the residence of a trader, two years ago. Late in the
evening we arrived at another hut, on North West River, where we found
two of Mr. McGillivray's people, who were stationed there for the
purpose of trapping martens. Nine miles.
"_Wednesday, the 14th._--The weather being unpropitious, and finding
ourselves very snug in our present quarters, we passed the day
enjoying the comfort of a roof.
"_Thursday, the 15th._--Left our Canadian hosts at early dawn;
the snow very deep on the river. Proceeded till ten, A.M., when D.
Henderson was suddenly seized by a violent fit, which completely
incapacitated him from travelling. Discovering a hut close by, a fire
was immediately kindled in it, and a place prepared for our invalid to
lie down; in our present circumstances nothing more could be done. I
waited by him till two, P.M., then pursued my route, accompanied by
the Indians, leaving H. Hay to take care of him. Accomplished fourteen
miles.
"_Friday, the 16th._--Set off at four, A.M. Arrived at dusk at Port
Smith, where, although I was well known, my Esquimaux dress and long
beard defied recognition, until I announced myself by name.
"_Saturday, the 17th._--An Indian was despatched early in the morning,
to meet my men with a supply of the north-west panacea, Turlington
Balsam; and I was glad to see them arrive in the evening, more in want
of food than medicine."
Two days after our arrival, all the Nascopie or Ungava Indians, at
present residing in this part of the country, numbering seventy
or eighty souls, came to the establishment, with the produce of
their winter hunts. Mr. McGillivray and myself having come to an
understanding regarding them, we both addressed them, representing
to them the advantages they would derive from having posts so
conveniently situated on their lands, &c. After some deliberation
among themselves, they expressed their intention to be guided by our
advice, and to return forthwith to their lands. Having sent off my
despatches by Indian couriers, for Mashquaro, on the 3d of March, to
be forwarded thence to Canada, _via_ the Company's posts along the
Gulf and River St. Lawrence, I sent H. Hay for my guides (who had
gone to pay the _kettles_ of their friends a visit), preparatory to my
departure hence, which has been deferred to a much later period than
I had calculated upon, from the prevalence of excessively bad weather
for a fortnight.
Hay, having met the Indians on the way, returned the same evening; but
they were so emaciated that I could scarcely recognise them, looking
like so many spectres--a metamorphosis caused by the influenza, at
that time prevalent in the country. My principal guide, however,
declared himself able to proceed on the journey, with a light load;
and it was arranged that Pellican should accompany his relative. Two
young men, who came in with my guide, appearing not quite so much
reduced as the others, I proposed to them to accompany me as far
as Michigama Lake, to assist in hauling our provisions, which they
consented to do; and they accordingly took their departure along
with my guide, on the 4th of March. Myself and two men, along with my
"husky" interpreter, followed next morning; but as we are to retrace
our steps by the same way we came, it will be unnecessary to narrate
the occurrences of each day.
We arrived in the evening at the first Indian camp, where I found one
of the young men I had hired, relapsed into his former malady, and
unable to proceed further. This, although a disappointment, did not
much affect me, as I had hopes my guide would be able to continue his
route, from the circumstance of his having passed on to the farthest
camp. When we arrived, about noon next day, and found, not only our
guide, but every individual in the camp, suffering under the fatal
malady,--this was the climax to my disappointment. I determined on
returning to Fort Smith with my guide, where, by proper treatment, I
hoped he might yet recover in time to admit of my returning before the
end of the season.
I accordingly returned, accompanied by H. Hay, who conducted the
dog-sledge, on which I had placed my sick Indian, leaving D. Henderson
in charge of the provisions, along with the Esquimaux. On the morning
of the 9th, I despatched H. Hay to join Henderson, with directions to
haul the provisions on to McGillivray's hut, there to await further
orders.
My guide, for a few days, appeared to be in a hopeless state, refusing
sustenance of any kind, and became delirious. This was the crisis
of the malady; for he soon began to take some food, and recovered
strength daily. He at length proposed to attempt the journey, to which
I joyfully assented; and once more took leave of Fort Smith, on the
19th of March, and joined my men next day.
Remaining two days, to give the guide time to recruit his strength, I
started on the morning of the 23d; the Indians had recovered strength
enough to enable them to proceed towards their winter deposit of
provisions, near Michigama Lake, leaving us an excellent track. We
overtook them on the 26th. I found it impossible to separate my guide
from his relatives while we pursued the same route. We arrived on the
30th at their last stage, and encamped together.
Next morning as we were about to start, a message arrived from my
guide, announcing his determination to proceed no farther, unless
Pellican were permitted to accompany us. I sent for him immediately,
and endeavoured to impress on his mind the unreasonableness of
such a proposition, our provisions being scarcely sufficient for
ourselves--that it would expose the whole party to the risk of
starvation; but I addressed a thing without reason and without
understanding, and was accordingly obliged, once more, to yield.
We reached the highest land on the 2d of April, where, on examining
our remaining stock of provisions, the alarming fact that it was
altogether insufficient to carry us to the establishment, was but too
apparent. It was therefore necessary to take immediate measures to
avert, if possible, an evil that threatened so fearful consequences;
and the only course that presented itself was to divide into two
parties,--the one to proceed with all possible despatch to the fort,
by the shortest route, and to send forward a supply to the other,
which it was anticipated would reach them ere they were reduced to
absolute want.
Pursuant to this resolution I set off, accompanied by the guide and
H. Hay; leaving D. Henderson to make the best of his way, with the
Esquimaux and Pellican. Having taken but a very small share of the
provisions with us, and meeting with no game on the way, we were
soon reduced to the utmost extremity. One of our dogs being starved
to death, we were ultimately obliged to knock the surviving one on
the head, to supply ourselves with what we considered, in present
circumstances, "food for the gods." Such as it was, it enabled us to
keep soul and body together till we reached Fort Chimo, on the 20th
of April, where we found all the Nascopies of this part of the country
assembled to greet the arrival of their long-expected friends--our
guides. I immediately selected a couple of smart-looking lads to go to
meet my rear-guard,--the other servants about the establishment, who
were accustomed to snow-shoes, being absent, watching the deer.
On the third day after their departure the couriers returned, with
Pellican. On inquiring of the latter what had become of my men, he
replied that he had left them encamped at a lake about sixty miles
distant, where the Esquimaux, abandoning himself to despair, could
not be prevailed upon to go a step farther; and that he (Pellican)
had been sent forward by Henderson to urge on the party whom they
expected. They were within a day's journey of them; and yet the
wretches returned immediately on meeting Pellican, leaving the others
to their fate. No Indians I had ever known would have acted so basely;
yet these are an "unsophisticated race" of aborigines, who have but
little intercourse with the whites, and must, of course, be free from
the contamination of their manners. Our hunters being now arrived,
were sent off, without delay, in quest of the missing; and I had the
satisfaction to see my famished _compagnons de voyage_ arrive, on the
26th of April.