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NOTES
OF A
TWENTY-FIVE YEARS' SERVICE
IN THE
HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORY.
BY JOHN M'LEAN.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.
LONDON:
RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,
PUBLISHER IN ORDINARY TO HER MAJESTY.
1849.
* * * * *
CONTENTS
OF
THE SECOND VOLUME.
CHAPTER I.
Journey to Norway House 9
CHAPTER II.
Arrival at York Factory--Its
Situation--Climate--Natives--Rein-Deer--Voyage to Ungava--Incidents of
the Voyage--Arrival at Ungava--Situation and Aspect 16
CHAPTER III.
Exploring Expedition through the Interior of
Labrador--Difficulties--Deer Hunt--Indian Gluttony--Description of the
Country--Provisions run short--Influenza 32
CHAPTER IV.
Distressing Bereavement--Exploring Party--their Report--Arrival at
Esquimaux--Establish Posts--Pounding Rein-Deer--Expedition up George's
River--Its Difficulties--Hamilton River--Discover a stupendous
Cataract--Return by George's River to the Sea--Sudden Storm and
miraculous Escape 60
CHAPTER V.
Esquimaux arrive from the North Shore of Hudson's Strait on a
Raft--Despatch from the Governor--Distress of the Esquimaux--Forward
Provisions to Mr. E----. Return of the Party--Their deplorable
Condition 81
CHAPTER VI.
Trip to Esquimaux Bay--Governor's Instructions--My Report to the
Committee--Recommend the Abandonment of Ungava Settlement--Success of
the Arctic Expedition conducted by Messrs. Dease and Simpson--Return
by Sea to Fort Chimo--Narrowly escape Shipwreck in the Ungava
River--Impolitic Measure of the Governor--Consequent Distress at the
Post 88
CHAPTER VII.
Another exploring Expedition--My Promotion--Winter at Chimo--Obtain
permission to visit Britain--Ungava abandoned 98
CHAPTER VIII.
GENERAL REMARKS.
Climate of Ungava--Aurora Borealis--Soil--Vegetable
Productions--Animals--Birds--Fish--Geological Features 102
CHAPTER IX.
The Nascopies--Their Religion--Manners and
Customs--Clothing--Marriage--Community of Goods 118
CHAPTER X.
The Esquimaux--Probable Origin--Identity of Language from Labrador
to Behring's Straits--Their Amours--Marriages--Religion--Treatment of
Parents--Anecdote--Mode of Preserving Meat--Amusements--Dress--The
Igloe, or Snow-House--Their Cuisine--Dogs--The Sledge--Caiak, or
Canoe--Ouimiàk, or Boat--Implements--Stature 131
CHAPTER XI.
Labrador--Esquimaux Half-Breeds--Moravian Brethren--European
Inhabitants--Their Virtues--Climate--Anecdote 155
CHAPTER XII.
Voyage to England--Arrival at Plymouth--Reflections--Arrive at
the place of my Nativity--Changes--Depopulation--London--The
Thames--Liverpool--Embark for New York--Arrival--The
Americans--English and American Tourists--England and America--New
York 167
CHAPTER XIII.
Passage from New York to Albany by Steamer--The Passengers--Arrival at
Albany--Journey to Montreal 187
CHAPTER XIV.
Embark for the North--Passengers--Arrive at Fort William--Despatch
from Governor--Appointed to McKenzie's River District--Portage
La Loche--Adventure on Great Slave Lake--Arrive at Fort
Simpson--Productions of the Post 193
CHAPTER XV.
Statements in the Edinburgh Cabinet Library--Alleged Kindness of
the Hudson's Bay Company to the Indians--And Generosity--Support of
Missionaries--Support withdrawn--Preference of Roman Catholics--The
North-West Company--Conduct of a British Peer--Rivalry of the
Companies--Coalition--Charges against the North-West Company refuted
207
CHAPTER XVI.
Arrival of Mr. Lefroy--Voyage to the Lower Posts of the
McKenzie--Avalanche--Incidents of the Voyage--Voyage to Portage La
Loche--Arbitrary and unjust Conduct of the Governor--Despotism--My
Reply to the Governor 228
CHAPTER XVII.
Situation of Fort Simpson--Climate--The Liard--Effects of the
Spring Floods--Tribes inhabiting McKenzie's
River District--Peculiarities--Distress through
Famine--Cannibalism--Anecdote--Fort Good Hope saved by the Intrepidity
of M. Dechambault--Discoveries of Mr. Campbell 241
CHAPTER XVIII.
Mr. McPherson assumes the Command--I am appointed to Fort Liard,
but exchange for Great Slave Lake--The Indians--Resolve to quit the
Service--Phenomena of the Lake 255
CHAPTER XIX.
Reflections--Prospects in the Service--Decrease of the Game--Company's
Policy in consequence--Appeal of the Indians--Means of
Preserving them, and improving their Condition--Abolition of the
Charter--Objections answered 260
CHAPTER XX.
Wesleyan Mission--Mr. Evans--Encouragement given by the Company--Mr.
Evans' Exertions among the Indians--Causes of the Withdrawal of the
Company's Support--Calumnious Charges against Mr. E.--Mr. E. goes to
England--His sudden Death 278
CHAPTER XXI.
SKETCH OF RED RIVER SETTLEMENT.
Red River--Soils--Climate--Productions--Settlement of Red River
through Lord Selkirk by Highlanders--Collision between the
North-West and Hudson's Bay Companies--Inundation--Its
Effects--French Half-Breeds--Buffalo Hunting--English
Half-Breeds--Indians--Churches--Schools--Stores--Market for
Produce--Communication by Lakes 289
CHAPTER XXII.
Sir G. Simpson--His Administration 311
* * * * *
VOCABULARY of the PRINCIPAL INDIAN DIALECTS in use among the Tribes in
the Hudson's Bay Territory 323
* * * * *
NOTES
OF A
TWENTY-FIVE YEARS' SERVICE
IN THE
HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORY.
* * * * *
CHAPTER I.
JOURNEY TO NORWAY HOUSE.
I started from Stuart's Lake on the 22d of February, and arrived at
Fort Alexandria on the 8th of March. Although the upper parts of the
district were yet buried in snow, it had disappeared in the immediate
neighbourhood of the establishment, and everything wore the pleasing
aspect of spring.
Mr. F---- was about to remove to a new post he had erected on the west
bank of the river. Horses were provided for us to perform the journey
overland to Okanagan. We left on the 13th; on the 15th we encamped on
the borders of Lac Vert, having experienced a violent snow-storm in
the early part of the day. The lake and circumjacent country presented
a beautiful scene; the spurs of the Rocky Mountains bounding the
horizon and presenting a rugged outline enveloped in snow--the
intervening space of wooded hill and dale clothed in the fresh verdure
of the season; and the innumerable low points and islands in the lake
contributing to the variety of the landscape.
Hitherto we had found much snow on the ground, and our progress in
consequence was very slow. Our tardy horses subsisting on whatever
they could pick during the night, or when we halted for our meals,
began to falter, so that we were under the necessity of stopping to
allow them to feed wherever any bare ground appeared.
On the evening of the 18th we came in sight of Kamloops' Lake, which,
to my great surprise, was not only clear of ice, but the valley in
which it is situated appeared clothed with verdure, while the heights
on the other side were still covered with snow. The valley looks to
the south, and is protected from the cold winds by the neighbouring
high grounds.
On arriving at Kamloops' post we found two Canadians in charge,
Mr. B---- having set off a few days before for the dépôt at Fort
Vancouver. We met with a cordial reception from his men, who
entertained us with horse-flesh and potatoes for supper; and next day
we bountifully partook of the same delicacies, my prejudice against
this fare having completely vanished.
Fort Kamloops is situated at the confluence of Thompson's River
and its north branch; the Indians attached to it are a tribe of the
Atnahs. Their lands are now destitute of fur-bearing animals, nor are
there many animals of the larger kind to be found; they however find
subsistence in the variety of edible roots which the country affords.
They have the character of being honest, quiet, and well-disposed
towards the whites. As soon as the young women attain the age of
puberty, they paint their faces after a fashion which the young men
understand without explanation. They also dig holes in the ground,
which they inlay with grass or branches, as a proof of their industry;
and when they are in a certain state they separate from the community
and live in small huts, which they build for themselves. Should any
one unwittingly touch them, or an article belonging to them, during
their indisposition, he is considered unclean; and must purify himself
by fasting for a day, and then jumping over a fire prepared by _pure_
hands.
We left Kamloops on the 20th, and after travelling about twenty miles
found the ground covered with snow, which increased in depth as we
advanced. The track left by Mr. B----'s party was of great service to
us.
We encamped at the extremity of Okanagan Lake, where we found a small
camp of natives nearly starved to death; the unfortunate creatures
passed the night in our encampment, and we distributed as much of our
provisions amongst them as we could possibly spare. This encampment
afforded me as miserable a night's lodging as I had ever met with; a
snow-storm raged without intermission till daylight, when we set out
so completely benumbed that we could not mount our horses till we had
put the blood in circulation by walking.
We overtook Mr. B---- on the 25th, his horses completely jaded and
worn out by the fatigues of the journey; the great depth of the snow
indeed would have utterly precluded travelling had he not adopted
the precaution of driving a number of young horses before the loaded
horses to make a track.
The country through which we have travelled for the last few days
is exceedingly rugged, and possesses few features to interest the
traveller.
We arrived at the post of Okanagan on the 28th, situated on the left
bank of the Columbia River. The ground was still covered with snow to
the depth of two feet, and had been five feet deep in the course of
the winter--an extraordinary circumstance, as there generally falls so
little snow in this quarter, that the cattle graze in the plain nearly
all winter. The Indians are designated Okanagans, and speak a dialect
of the Atnah. Their lands are very poor, yielding only cats, foxes,
&c.; they subsist on salmon and roots.
Messrs. F---- and D---- arrived from Fort Vancouver on the 7th of
April, and we embarked on the 8th in three boats manned by retiring
servants. Mr. B---- accompanied us, having obtained permission to
cross the Rocky Mountains.
We arrived at Colville on the 12th, where we met with a most friendly
reception from a warmhearted Gael, (Mr. McD.) The gentlemen proceeding
to the dépôt in charge of the accounts of the Columbia department
generally remain here a few days to put a finishing hand to these
accounts--an operation which occupied us till the 22d, when we
re-embarked, leaving Messrs. D---- and B---- behind; the former being
remanded to Fort Vancouver; and the latter, having changed his mind,
in an evil hour for himself, returned to his old quarters; where he
was murdered sometime afterwards by an Indian who had lost his father,
and thought that the company of his old trader would solace him for
the absence of his children.