CHAPTER I

Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Melissa McDaniel and the

Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net

Transcriber's note:

Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have

been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected.

[Illustration: MARBLE RELIEF OF THE AMBARVALIA SACRIFICE, IN THE

FORUM

The sacrifice of the _suovetaurilia_ took place at the confines of

Rome and Alba Longa after the perlustration of the Roman _ager_. See

pages 15, 70.]

ROME . PAINTED BY

ALBERTO PISA . TEXT

BY M. A. R. TUKER AND

HOPE MALLESON

PUBLISHED BY ADAM &

CHARLES BLACK . SOHO

SQUARE . LONDON . W.

_Published April 1905_

The twelve chapters in this book were all written for the present

volume, but Chapters III., V., VIII., part of XI., and IX. have

already been published in the _Monthly Review_, _Broad Views_,

_Macmillan's Magazine_, and the _Hibbert Journal_.

So much has been written about Rome and Roman subjects within the last

decade, good bad and indifferent, that the task of avoiding as far as

possible hackneyed ground is not an easy one. We have attempted to

present some aspects of Rome as we have ourselves seen it, and we have

drawn on our long acquaintance with the city and above all with its

inhabitants of the old school and the new.

Each chapter is the work of one writer.

ROME, 1905.

Contents

PAGE

CHAPTER I

ROME 1

CHAPTER II

ROMAN BUILDING AND DECORATION 17

CHAPTER III

THE ROMAN CATACOMBS 41

CHAPTER IV

ROMAN REGIONS AND GUILDS 52

CHAPTER V

THE ROMAN CAMPAGNA 69

CHAPTER VI

THE ROMAN MENAGE 93

CHAPTER VII

THE ROMAN PEOPLE--

I. The Italians 112

II. The Romans 125

CHAPTER VIII

ROMAN PRINCELY FAMILIES 159

CHAPTER IX

ROMAN RELIGION 180

CHAPTER X

THE ROMAN CARDINAL 200

CHAPTER XI

ROME BEFORE 1870 212

CHAPTER XII

THE ROMAN QUESTION--

I. Before 1870 235

II. Since 1870 245

List of Illustrations

1. Marble relief of the Ambarvalia Sacrifice, in the

Forum _Frontispiece_

TO FACE PAGE

2. The Forum from the Arch of Septimius Severus 4

3. The Forum, looking towards the Capitol 8

4. Temple of Saturn from the Basilica Julia in the Forum 12

5. S. Peter's and Castel Sant' Angelo from the Tiber 16

6. Temple of Saturn from the Portico of the Dii Consentes 18

7. A Corner of the Forum from the base of the Temple of

Saturn 20

8. Temple of Mars Ultor 24

9. Temple of Vespasian from the Portico of the Dii

Consentes 26

10. The Colosseum on a Spring Day 30

11. The Colosseum at Sunset 34

12. Arch of Titus 38

13. A Procession in the Catacomb of Callistus 42

14. Flavian Basilica on the Palatine 44

15. Library of the House of Domitian on the Palatine 50

16. Forum of Nerva 54

17. Fountain of Trevi 56

18. Column of Marcus Aurelius, Piazza Colonna 58

19. Pantheon, a flank view 62

20. Silversmiths' Arch in the Velabrum 64

21. Convent Garden of San Cosimato, Vicovaro 68

22. A Tract of the Claudian Aqueduct outside the City 72

23. Campagna Romana, from Tivoli 76

24. Subiaco from the Monastery of S. Benedict 78

25. Garden of the Monastery of Santa Scholastica, Subiaco 82

26. Holy Stairs at the Sagro Speco 86

27. Little Gleaner in the Campagna 90

28. Sea-horse Fountain in the Villa Borghese 94

29. Ornamental Water, Villa Borghese 98

30. Village Street at Anticoli, in the Sabine Hills 100

31. Villa d'Este, Tivoli 106

32. In Villa Borghese 110

33. The "Spanish Steps," Piazza di Spagna 114

34. At the Foot of the Spanish Steps, Piazza di Spagna, on

a Wet Day 118

35. Roman Peasant carrying Copper Water Pot 122

36. Chapel of the Passion in the Church of San Clemente 126

37. A Rustic Dwelling in the Roman Campagna 128

38. Procession with the Host at Subiaco 130

39. Girl selling Birds in the Via del Campidoglio 134

40. Entrance to Ara Coeli from the Forum 138

41. In the Church of Ara Coeli 142

42. Doorway of the Monastery of S. Benedict (Sagro Speco)

at Subiaco 146

43. Chapel of San Lorenzo Loricato at S. Benedict's, Subiaco 150

44. Steps of the Dominican Nuns' Church of SS. Domenico

and Sisto 154

45. Porta San Paolo 158

46. The Colosseum in a Storm 162

47. Arch of Titus from the Arch of Constantine 166

48. Mediaeval House at Tivoli 170

49. Ilex Avenue and Fountain (_Fontana scura_) Villa Borghese 174

50. "House of Cola di Rienzo," by Ponte Rotto 178

51. San Clemente, Choir and Tribune of Upper Church 182

52. Santa Maria in Cosmedin 186

53. Chapel of San Zeno (called _orto del paradiso_) in

S. Prassede 190

54. Cloisters of S. Paul's-without-the-Walls 192

55. Cloisters in Santa Scholastica, Subiaco 196

56. Santa Maria sopra Minerva 198

57. Saint Peter's 200

58. Interior of S. Peter's, the Bronze Statue of S. Peter 204

59. A Cardinal in Villa d'Este 208

60. Villa d'Este--Path of the Hundred Fountains 210

61. Theatre of Marcellus 212

62. Island of the Tiber--the Isola Sacra 216

63. The Steps of Ara Coeli 220

64. Steps of the Church of SS. Domenico and Sisto 224

65. Santa Maria Maggiore 230

66. Arch of Constantine 234

67. Castel and Ponte Sant' Angelo 238

68. Bronze Statue of Marcus Aurelius on the Capitol 240

69. S. Peter's from the Pincian Gardens 244

70. From the Terrace of the House of Domitian 252

_The Illustrations in this volume have been engraved by the Hentschel

Colourtype Process._

ROME

CHAPTER I

ROME

About seven hundred and fifty years before the Christian era some

Latian settlers founded a town on the banks of the Tiber and became

the Roman people. Where did they come from? Had they come across what

was later to be known as the _ager romanus_ from the Latin stronghold

of Alba Longa, or were they a mixed people, partly composed of those

men from Etruria who were already settled in the country round? In the

confused pictures which tradition has handed down to us we see Latins

in conflict with Etruscans, and Romulus relegating the latter to a

special quarter of the city; but we also see one of the three tribes

into which he divided the people bearing an Etruscan name, an Etruscan

chief as his ally, and we know that while two at least of her six

kings belonged to this race, the religion, the art, and the political

institutions of early Rome were borrowed from that Etruscan

civilisation which was at this epoch the most advanced on Latin soil.

However this may be, four legends cling round the mighty founders of

Rome--the Latian, the Aenean, the Arcadian, the Etruscan. The Arcadian

Evander had brought with him a colony of the indigenous people of

Greece, and founded a town at the foot of the Palatine sixty years

before the Trojan war. But at Alba Longa there also reigned kings

descended from Aeneas, who had come to Latium after the capture of

Troy bringing with him the _Palladium_, the sacred image of Pallas.

His descendant, the vestal Rhea Silvia, becomes the mother of the

twins Romulus and Remus by Mars. The babes of the guilty priestess are

cast adrift, but their cradle is carried down the Tiber to the foot of

the Palatine, where they are suckled by a wolf, and brought up by the

shepherd community already established there.

In the dim twilight of origins we recognise that Romulus is the type

of the Roman people, whom he symbolises, who are found fighting the

Sabine, the Etruscan, even the Latin, for existence as a nation. In

the dim twilight we see all Roman things coming down the Tiber to the

foot of the Palatine--the original _Roma Quadrata_--and we see that

the nucleus of the settlement there was the cave of Lupercus, the

Italian shepherds' god, identified later with the Arcadian Pan. This

cave was just above the site of the present church of Santa Anastasia;

here grew the wild fig-tree in whose roots the cradle of Rhea Silvia's

babes became entangled, and here was the hut of Faustulus their

foster-father.

The Grotto of Lupercus is the oldest sanctuary of kingly Rome. For

the people were shepherds. Other nations had risen under shepherd

kings who led their people to war, but no other people had become

world conquerors; no other people had been equally skilled in the arts

of war and the arts of peace, the arts of the plough and the arts of

the spear, in the self-discipline, the heroic devotion, the unity of

purpose, of the men who once carried in their breast the destinies of

the known world.

The story is aptly figured in the person of the god Mars, who was the

reputed father of Romulus and Remus. The Roman god was at first an

agricultural divinity--the "spears of Mars" were the rods with which

the shepherd owner marked his boundaries. When, under the influence of

Greece, Mars became the god of battles, the boundary marker of the

fields became his war weapons. But if the Roman knew how to beat his

ploughshare into a sword, he also knew how to return from the sword to

the plough. The one was never far from the other--they put him in

possession of those two ways of inheriting the earth, multiplying and

subduing, producing and combating. Thus the pastoral legend never died

out from the land of Saturn, and in the proudest flush of victory,

when the relics of the _hastae martis_ were shown to the triumphant

followers of Mars, there was present to the soul of the Roman the

image of the father of Romulus covering the land with gigantic strides

to strike these same _hastae_ into the soil as a sign of possession,

the emblem of primitive law.

Two hills in Central Italy and a swamp between them provided the

theatre of perhaps the greatest millennium in human history. On the

one hill were the Latins--or let us call them the Roman people--the

site of _Roma Quadrata_ the foster-land of Romulus, the birthplace of

Augustus, the hill which has given its name to the imperial palaces of

the earth. On the other were the Quirites and the site of the Sabine

arx, that _Capitolium_ so-called, says Montfaucon, "because it was the

head of the world, from which the consuls and senators governed the

universe." Whenever the marshy ground between them was passable, the

Latins and Sabines descended the steep declivities of their hills and

transformed it into a battlefield. But even in these early days they

felt the need of a _comitium_ where the rival chiefs could meet to

decide upon terms; and in no long space this battle-ground became the

nucleus and pledge of the political greatness of Rome.

For the Forum symbolises all human civilisation. It is the symbol of

the common meeting ground--the common sentiments and needs--of human

beings, where rancours are laid aside for the business of life--its

common but its noblest business, civic, "civilised," pursuits. It is

the symbol of human greatness also, for the Roman never suffered the

common necessities to force upon him an ignoble peace. The

battle-ground became the centre of civic life, but only on condition

that the interests for which men should combat were never sacrificed

to the interests for which men should co-operate. Through the symbolic

_trait d'union_ of the Forum, two fortresses of barbarians became

the nucleus of the city which ruled the world, and their people the

imperial people of history.

[Illustration: THE FORUM FROM THE ARCH OF SEPTIMIUS SEVERUS

In the left corner is the _lapis niger_, the traditional tomb of

Romulus. Facing us is the Arch of Titus, and to the right is the

Palatine.]

The city on the Palatine had been extended so as to include the town

of the Sabines or Quirites on the neighbouring Quirinal hill, before

the first king, who was born in the Sabine country, was called to rule

the Romans. The Capitol at this time was a spur of the Quirinal, and

so remained until Trajan dug away a part of the latter to lay the

foundations of his forum. The Etruscans lived on the Caelian and the

two horns of the Esquiline hills; the former was incorporated in the

primitive city, but the Esquiline and Viminal were not enclosed until

the time of Servius Tullius when Rome first became "the city on Seven

Hills." The Aventine where Remus had wished to build the city was

colonised by the conquered Latin towns in the reign of Ancus Martius,

and this isolated hill, overlooking the Tiber on one side and the

campagna on the other, still haunts the imagination with its

melancholy beauty, its pariah history, as though it embodied the

undying protest of Remus, an unceasing claim upon Roman justice. The

varied and interesting Christian memories here, which begin with the

_titulus_ of Priscilla and Aquila, are continued in the Priory of the

once international Order of the Knights of Malta, recording the

noblest effort of the lay world during the middle ages--the

institution of chivalry; and in the modern Benedictine house of Saint

Anselm--our English Anselm.

The Janiculum, the site of a fortress built by Ancus Martius against

the Etruscans, was not enclosed within the city walls till the time of

Aurelian; the Vatican hill was only enclosed in the ninth century by

Leo IV. All these hills were once steep defences against enemies in

the surrounding country; now that there are no longer any enemies the

Romans appear bent on abolishing the hills, and the mania for planing

and razing is carried to an extent which must seem nothing less

than childish to the visitor. The Viminal has become almost

indistinguishable since the Villa Massimo was pulled down, and only

the name _Via Viminale_, which replaces the older Via Strozzi,

indicates the hill which lay between the Quirinal and the Esquiline.

Some idea may be gained of the original steepness of the hills when we

realise that in the memory of the Romans the road past Palazzo

Aldobrandini--on a slope of the Quirinal--used to be at the level of

the top of the high wall which now surrounds it. The Capitol was only

approachable from the Forum, and was never connected with the city on

the hither side until the construction of the historic steps of Ara

Coeli, one of the rare works undertaken by the Romans during the

absence of the popes in Avignon.

The Tiber is now but a narrow stream in the midst of its ancient bed.

The Romans had never embanked the swift-flowing river, and the

enormous deposits of the yellow sand which give it its traditional

colour, and which threaten to completely dam the river by the island

of the Tiber, may afford the explanation. The inundations of 1900 in

fact reached the same level as those of 1872, as we may see recorded

in the neighbouring church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin. Few spots in

Rome exceed in varied interest the _isola sacra_ which with its two

historic bridges the _pons Fabricius_ and the _pons Cestius_ spans the

Tiber at the heart of the city. Here was the temple to Aesculapius,

whose worship had been introduced into Rome during a time of

pestilence in obedience to the Sibylline oracles. The island itself

thereafter assumed the form of a huge stone ship, faced with

travertine, the prow with the sculptured staff and serpent of the god

being still clearly visible; and here Greece and Rome met a

civilisation and an art still older than their own, for the mast of

this great ship is formed by an Egyptian obelisk. Hard by is the

district where the Romans, who had borrowed from them their gods and

their cult, compelled the "_turba impia_" ("the impious crowd") of

Etruscans to dwell; while the walled enclosure in which, from the

eleventh century onwards, Christian Rome obliged the Jews to live, is

approached by the Fabrician bridge, as we may gather from the

inscription in Hebrew and Latin on the little church of San Giovanni

Calibita, beneath a painting of the Crucifixion, which says: "I have

spread forth my hands all the day to an unbelieving people, who walk

in a way that is not good."

In the early twelfth century Otho III. brought, as he believed, the

body of the Hebrew apostle Saint Bartholomew to this island, as 1400

years earlier the cult of Aesculapius had been brought there from

Greece. The city of Beneventum had, however, it is supposed, palmed

off on the emperor the body of Saint Paulinus of Nola which rests in

the church dedicated to the apostle by the side of that of Saint

Adelbert the apostle of the Slavs. The Franciscans came to the _isola

sacra_ in the sixteenth century, and one of the friars of Saint

Bartholomew's is the popular dentist of the poor from all quarters.

Here, then, in the midst of the river which determined the site of the

cosmopolitan city, is a spot to whose history Egypt, Greece, Etruria,

Palestine have contributed--Aesculapius, "one of the Twelve," the

Christian Slavs, the Saxon Otho, Francis of Assisi. In Paulinus of

Nola we are reminded of the earliest Western monasteries, and the

Franciscan friars represent for us the thirteenth-century revival of

the religious spirit in Italy. What more? In the red-gowned

confraternity of the island we are put in touch with an institution

which seems to be as old as human history, with those burial guilds,

sanctioned by Roman law, under shelter of which the first Christians

obtained a legal footing for themselves and their cemeteries long

before their religion was tolerated.

[Illustration: THE FORUM, LOOKING TOWARDS THE CAPITOL

The Palatine is to the left. See pages 4, 5, 61.]

The vicissitudes of the city have made certain features of its life as

eternal as itself. Through the middle ages it was the sanctuary and

since the renascence of classical learning it has been the museum of

Europe. Long before there were any kind of facilities for travelling

every one came to Rome. A procession of people from every race under

heaven, in every variety--every excess and defect--of costume, has

passed along the streets under the observant but unastonished eyes of

the _blase_ Roman; and when a lay pilgrim in a brown tunic, hung

with rosaries, and carrying a crucifix taller than himself, walked

last year out of Saint Peter's among the Easter crowd, no one noticed

him. The modern city in becoming the hostess of the other provinces of

Italy is approximating in size to the Rome of the early empire; but

the Rome of the popes made no sort of provision for the influx of

Europe. The Inn of the Bear, in the street of that name leading to

Ponte Sant' Angelo, provided the best accommodation; and here, it is

said, Dante himself had lodged. It is but a hundred years ago that a

pavement was placed for pedestrians, and then only one side of the

Corso boasted a narrow footpath. The streets were encumbered with

hucksters' stalls, with refuse, dirt, and stones; the nights were dark

as pitch, and hygiene was only hinted at in the marble _affiches_

which may still be seen at certain old street corners announcing that

_monsignore_ the way warden would visit with a fine of 25 _scudi_ and

divers bodily pains the practice of emptying every kind of refuse into

the side streets.

Now that the city is emerging from the chrysalis of the middle ages

the cry of "Vandals!" goes up on all sides. But Rome has always been

destroyed. Not even her moral vicissitudes give her a greater right to

be called "the eternal city" than her survival of the material ruin to

which she has over and over again been subjected. That Goth and Vandal

have not wrought more havoc than emperors, people, and popes is

recorded in the pasquinade on Urban VIII. (Barberini), who stripped

the bronze off the Pantheon to adorn the baldacchino of Saint

Peter's:--_Quod non fecerunt Barbari, fecerunt Barberini_. It is a

curious coincidence that the inscription commemorating the victories

of Claudius in Britain, in which our kings are irreverently spoken of

as "barbarians," should now grace the garden of the Barberini palace

in Rome. _Tempora mutantur nos et mutamur in illis._

One factor only has been constant in the vicissitudes of

Rome--barbarian invaders, rescuers of popes, foreign intruders,

internecine brawlers, the flights and elections of popes, have each

brought the opportunity for wholesale pillage. To the Roman love of

destruction must be added the love of the large and superfluous: from

the time of the emperors to the present hour when sites and buildings

are doomed on all hands in order that the colossal monument of Victor

Emmanuel II. may dominate the centre of the Roman tramway

system--while the House of Augustus is unexcavated and his tomb is

dishonoured--the Romans have proved themselves to be the sons of those

who killed the prophets, by building or desecrating their sepulchres.

But when "new Rome" is condemned let us not forget that it has given

us what the learning and the riches of the most munificent popes never

compassed--an excavated Forum.

There is no Mayfair and no Seven Dials in Rome. The poor live, and

have always lived, cheek by jowl with the rich: a palace in the Ghetto

and a hovel in the Corso have each existed without offence. This

brings us to another permanent feature of Roman life--the beggars.

Rome has always lived on the foreigner, and it has always had troops

of beggars patrolling its streets, in the time of the Antonines as in

that of Gregory the Great, or as in that of the latest of the

sovereign pontiffs, Pius IX.; and the cheerful-faced beggar who was

licensed by this pope to sit by the statue of Saint Peter lived to the

closing years of the century and gave a dowry of 200,000 francs to his

daughter on her marriage. The difficulties which met the Roman of the

era of Gregory the Great when pest and the transition to the

agricultural system of _coloni_ threw the serfs upon the streets, met

the government of Italy when after September 1870 the whole motley

crowd which had been the recipient of the Christian system of

alms-giving was in its turn suddenly thrown upon the streets of the

city. Those who remember the "seventies" or the "eighties" in Rome

remember the menacing manner in which "alms" were "asked," how near

together were blessing and cursing, and how unfrequented roads and

hills were beset by sturdy beggars, lineal descendants of the brigand

who placing his hat in the roadway levelled his gun at you as he

proffered the request: "For the love of God put something in that

hat."

Papal charity pauperised a whole people: notices in the streets on wet

days announced the free distribution of bread in the Colosseum; doles

of bread were given by all the parish clergy to the practising members

of their congregations. The men women and children who had passed

their time doing odd jobs in churches, following viaticum and funeral

processions, and providing a church crowd on all occasions, were

suddenly called upon to make some concession to the modern

spirit--hawking a bunch of crumpled flowers, a box of matches or a

couple of bootlaces up and down the streets, in and out of the

restaurants, these latest recruits to the commercial spirit exchanged

the atmosphere of the sacristy for the busy whirl of trade without

ceasing to be what they had always been, beggars pure and simple.

Successful attempts are now being made to put down begging. The great

and real distress which exists in the city is mainly due to the

excessive rents and the terrible overcrowding--in the _San Lorenzo_

quarter the modern poor of Rome may be found herded together with

five, six, and even seven families living _in one room_. The mania for

building in the "eighties" led to the "building crisis"; streets of

unfinished houses mock the houseless poor and the "improvements" of

the city are gradually demolishing the poorer dwellings. Amidst this

misery it is still the old Roman population which receives most help;

they are known in their parishes, and the old established subsidies

and dowries come their way.

[Illustration: TEMPLE OF SATURN FROM THE BASILICA JULIA IN THE FORUM

The Capitol is to the left. The temple is built at the foot of the

Capitol hill. See pages 3, 13, 30, 91.]

The population of Rome has varied as much as its fortunes. The maximum

was reached in the time of the Flavian emperors--2 millions, but even

in the time of Augustus the inhabitants probably numbered 1,300,000. A

period of three hundred and fifty years, which brings us to the date

of the "Peace of the Church," sufficed to decrease this number by more

than a million (A.D. 335). After a thousand years of Christian

domination the population of the city had sunk to its minimum, 17,000

(A.D. 1377). Even in the reign of the magnificent Leo X. it was not

more than 30 or 40 thousand. From the beginning of the seventeenth

century when it exceeded 100,000, it steadily increased, till in 1800

the population numbered 153,000. But during the "empire," 1812, it

fell to 118,000. Ten years after "the Italians" entered Rome it had

increased by 79,000, to 305,000. The last census, 1900, shows a

resident population of 450,000--not a third of its classical

total--and Naples is still the most densely populated city of Italy.

* * * * *

The Greek tradition in Rome seems summed in the Palatine, the hill of

"Pallas"; but the Capitol, the hill of Saturn, sums Italy itself. The

one represents the Roman Empire, the other the Roman Commune--those

liberties and that self-government which began with the entry of the

_gentes_ and the formation from among them of the Roman Senate, and

which were never to be abolished. The Palatine has not been inhabited

since the officials of the Exarchate abandoned it in the eighth

century; but the life of the Capitol has never been intermitted; it

has never ceased to represent all the moments in the life of the Roman

people. This distinction is sharply drawn to-day: the Palatine is a

hill of majestic ruins visited only by the tourist, the Capitol is

still the seat of the municipality of Rome, ascended by every couple

for the celebration of their marriage, and its registers signalise

every young life born to the city.

The municipal franchises of Italy have played a large part in her

history, and that of Rome is no exception. Moreover the Senate of

Rome, the heads of each _gens_ from among the original settlers, and

the _Populus_, who be it remembered were the _gentes_ and were never

synonymous with the _plebs_, represented two constant facts and

factors--a free Senate and free municipal government by the _Populus

Romanus_. These flourished in the middle ages as they had flourished

in the classical city, and it was thus easy for Cola di Rienzo to

restore them when the popes had abandoned the city to its fate. Papal

letters to Charlemagne's predecessors were indited in the name of the

Senate and people of Rome--a custom which influenced the early

government of the Roman Church herself, for her letters to other

Christian Churches were written in the name of "the Roman Church,"

even when, as in the case of Clement's epistle, they were the actual

handiwork of the then head of the Christian community. Again, when

Pepin obliged the Lombard king to cede the exarchate of Ravenna not to

the emperor but to Rome, the words employed were: "to the Holy Church

and the Roman Republic." Even in the time of the proud Innocent III.

the city was still governed "by the Senate and people of Rome," and

when the Romans again tired of their Senate--as tradition says they

had done when they made Numa king--they created in its place a supreme

magistrate who was designated "the Senator," one of whose duties was

to maintain the pontiff in his See, and to provide conveniently for

his safe conduct and that of the Sacred College when journeying within

his jurisdiction. The extent of this jurisdiction is perhaps all that

now remains of the power once held by the Senate and Roman people. The

municipality of Rome is the largest in the world; it is conterminous

with the whole Roman _agro_, so that its history is inseparably linked

with that of the Roman boundaries as well as with the life of the

Roman people.

The outward and visible sign of these primaeval Roman liberties is the

tetragram S.P.Q.R.--_Senatus Populus Que Romanus_ (the Roman Senate

and People), which took the place of the earlier formula _Populus

Romanus et Quirites_, and it is of the Sabines, not of the humble

conjunction, that that Q still reminds us. All down the centuries we

may recognise those four letters--surmounted in imperial times by an

eagle--crowning the standard of the Romans, carried far and wide not

only through the streets of the city and to the uttermost ends of the

earth, but in that religious perlustration of the _ager_ when the

ambarvalia rites were celebrated at the Cluilian Trench which

separated Rome from Alba Longa, the site of the combat between the

Alban Curatii and the Roman Horatii. One of the finest remains in the

Forum is the marble relief which represents the _suovetaurilia_, the

sow, sheep, and bull sacrificed on this occasion. That Roman greatness

which came to be synonymous with confines as large as the known world,

had risen with the recognition of these sacred limits, limits which

still define the Roman municipality--the symbol of Roman liberties.

The Pragmatic Sanction and the world power of Rome! Can two things be

more disparate? Yet the version which renders S.P.Q.R. into _Si Peu

Que Rien_ must surely be laid at the door of "Gallicanism"--it points

to an ecclesiastical not a political _diminutio capitis_. The tract of

the city which we see from the terrace on the Pincian hill, looking

towards the Janiculum, has been called the most historic plot of land

in the world. Is it without reason that the furthest point of this

unequalled panorama is the dome which Michael Angelo erected over the

tomb of S. Peter? Three mighty civilisations--the Etruscan, the Roman,

the Christian--resulted in the foundation of two world empires. Rome

is now entering on a third existence, its existence as the capital of

Italy, but has it suffered thereby no _diminutio capitis_? Is it not a

fact that the classical and the ecclesiastical represented her only

world-wide destinies, the only life of Rome which penetrated as truly

beyond the city as within its classic confines? Has not the papacy,

with all its faults, been the actual link connecting ancient and

modern Rome, preserving unbroken the tradition which gave her, beyond

her ritual boundaries, the government of the world without?

[Illustration: S. PETER'S AND CASTEL SANT' ANGELO FROM THE TIBER

See pages 16, 32, 239, 242.]

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