The regular Lobster season may be said approximately to last from

the month of March to August. About the middle or latter end of the

last-mentioned month the shifting of shells takes place, and the fish

is unfit for human food; but, like silkworms after a change of skin,

they commence feeding in the most voracious manner directly the new

garment is durable enough to admit of their taking their walks abroad,

and their temporary seclusion and compulsory abstinence is amply made

up for by a course of heavy feeding. The lost plumpness and condition

soon return, and the winter season furnishes Lobsters equal in goodness

and flavour to any caught “in _high lobster time_.” It has been

remarked by many experienced shell-fish dealers that the Lobster is

exceedingly local in its habits, and there are some who profess to be

able to recognise the natives of particular localities by their general

appearance and the colour of their shells. Unlike some crustaceans who

are coldly indifferent to the welfare of their offspring, the mamma

Lobster keeps her little brood about her until the youthful lobsterkins

are big enough to start in life for themselves.

The coasts of British North America, as well as many portions of the

sea board of the United States, abound in mail-clad inhabitants of

many kinds. In some localities great amusement is at times afforded

by their capture--a sort of _pic-nic_ or _lobster frolic_ being

organised. A boat with plenty of eatables, drinkables, and a capacious

cooking pot are provided, and long poles with their ends split (much

as the extremities of clothes-pins are fashioned) prepared. On the

boat or skiff being propelled slowly through the shallow water, a

sharp look-out is kept on the regions below, and on the Lobster

being discovered, the split end of the pole is lowered quietly, and

with the greatest caution, until just over the unsuspecting victim’s

back, when by a sudden downward thrust, the forceps like instrument

securely nips him, and he is brought to the surface in spite of his

claws and the pinches he inflicts on the tough, unyielding wood. Some

overhanging rock, or pleasant nook on the shore, is usually selected

as a place in which to dine and cook the proceeds of the Lobster hunt.

The driftwood and such dry sticks and shrubs as the neighbourhood will

afford, are used as fuel to boil the pot, and the revels proceed right

joyously. The bays, shallows, and mouths of rivers on the coast of

Prince Edward’s Island, abound in a species of sea-weed, known amongst

the inhabitants as “_eel grass_;” on this vast numbers of Lobsters

feed as in a rich sea garden. To these favoured hunting-grounds the

Lobster-catchers betake themselves, and by wading little more than

half-leg deep gather as many as they require. A bushel basket has been

filled in this way in less than an hour.

Like the branching growths of sub-marine life which form the connecting

link between the vegetable and animal kingdoms, we find crustaceans,

dwelling, so to speak, on the border lands of other races, and

linking the shrimp, crab, and lobster families together; partaking of

the nature of each, but being identical with neither: such are the

so-called _squat lobsters_ or _Galathea_. Three well-marked kinds are

to be met with more or less abundantly; these are the _Olive squats_

(_G. squamifera_), the _scarlet squat_ (_G. nexa_), and the _painted

squat_ (_G. strigosa_); all these are of comparatively small size, the

largest or painted description rarely exceeding three and a half inches

in length. The singular alertness of all the race renders capture

somewhat difficult. Like the lobsters they possess extraordinary powers

of vision and retrograde movement. The horns are extremely long, and so

sensitive that the slightest touch seems to reveal at once the nature

of an approaching object, and enables the alarmed squat to seek a safe

sanctuary between the rock clefts, from which, he is by no means easy

to withdraw.

[Illustration]

The spined lobster (_Palinurus vulgaris_), _crawfish_, _cray_, or

_crowder_, will from its thorn-coated shell, long horns, powerful

nippers, and generally formidable appearance, be familiar to most

of our readers. Like most other crustaceans the Cray delights in a

home among rugged sunken rocks, and is taken in the traps laid down

for ordinary lobsters and crabs. It not unfrequently happens whilst

line-fishing over sunken reefs, or on rocky ground, that, on a bite

being felt and the line drawn in, a steady drag is felt as though a

cuttlefish had grasped the bait; on looking down into sea beneath

the boat, in all probability the Cray will be seen in all his spined

armament, coming on at the end of the line like a sea porcupine with

horns. Some care will be needed to coax him deftly onward until the

net is well under, or your line and Cray are likely to part company.

These thorn-clad heroes, “in their spiked armour like Egyptian _porke

pigs_,” are not held in as high esteem for the table as their more

smoothly-plated relations--their flesh being of harder texture and of

a sweet flavour is objected to by professed lobster-eaters; still, to

our taste, a well-conditioned “_porke pig_,” the shape of a Crayfish,

is by no means to be despised. Some portions of the Pacific Ocean,

and the warm seas of the East, contain them in vast numbers. Many

spots on the coast of South America, and the bays and inlets of the

island of Juan Fernandez, literally swarm with them; and it is to be

questioned whether Robinson Crusoe, or Man Friday either, would have

ever consented to leave that fertile and picturesque locality if they

had entertained the least idea that it was surrounded by countless

thousands of Crays in a perfect fever of anxiety as to whose good

fortune it would be to get boiled first.

Some idea may be formed of the abundance of animated creatures of

this and other kinds to be taken in these seas, by the following

account of the fishing to be obtained in them, given by the Hon. F.

Walpole:--“The fishing afforded the best return for labour, and a boat

might be filled in four hours with hook and line only. Fish swarmed

of every size and colour, and seemingly of every variety of appetite,

for they took any bait. The bottom was literally lined with Crawfish

of a large size; some must have weighed five pounds at least. There

needed no hook--a piece of anything let down on a string to the bottom

was enough; they saw it, grasped it, and kept their hold till you had

seized them by their long feelers and borne them into the boat, where

they crawled about and extended their feelers as if in search of more

bait. The Conger eels, which were almost as numerous as the Crawfish,

were great enemies to us, for they took up time in the catching,

and their execution, which followed immediately, was a work of some

skill--Gordian knots, twists, and all manner of wriggles being used

to evade the knife raised to slay them, and frequently their powerful

teeth enabled them to bite through the wire and escape with hook, bait,

and line. Catching Crawfish was one of the favourite amusements of

the seamen. One man held a pole, on which was fastened a bait thrown

into the water near the beach; one or two others stood ready, and when

the Crawfish, allured by the bait, had approached within attainable

distance, those dogs of war pounced upon him, and he was high and dry

upon the beach before he had even meditated a retreat. The boat-keepers

in the boats alongside used to let down pieces of net spread on the

hoops of a cask, with pieces of bait inside them. In a few minutes

these were hauled up, and one of our simple friends appeared seated,

greatly enjoying the travelling. Sometimes two or three came up

struggling for standing room. But enough of Crawfish, I will only add

that we thoroughly enjoyed both the catching and the eating. We had

crawfish for breakfast, crawfish for dinner, crawfish for supper, and

crawfish for any incidental meal we could cram in between. The last I

saw of my friends was with their long feelers wreathing about, as they

were borne about Valparaiso as presents on our return.”

We learn from the old authors that Apicius, after profoundly studying

the culinary art at Minturnus, in Campania, where he feasted right

royally on Crawfish, in order, it is said, to strengthen and improve

the appetite--at length feeling that change of scene and provender

were needed, and opportunely hearing that Craws of marvellous size

and surpassing excellence were captured on the coast of Africa, the

sage knew no rest until he had obtained a ship and had set sail for

that favoured land. The voyage proved prosperous, and, as might be

reasonably anticipated, as the shore was neared a sea-earned appetite

of more than ordinary intensity set in, and the philosopher’s first

thoughts rested on the delicious crustaceans he had journeyed so far to

enjoy. The dusky fishers, roused into bustle and activity by the august

arrival, soon brought the spoils of their crawfish hunt, rejoicing no

doubt at their quick success; but the Craws were found, like most other

things when made the subject of long anticipation, by no means equal

to the exaggerated standard, and were contemptuously sent with their

owners to the right-about, orders being given that larger specimens

might be immediately brought. On being informed that to do so would

be impossible, Apicius at once expressed his supreme contempt for

Africa, Crawfish, and all else, ordered his pilot to attend, and gave

directions for instant departure for Italy.

Pliny speaks of Crawfish of such huge dimensions, “_four cubits long_,”

that we are almost led to believe they must have been the creation of a

wild, distempered dream rather than substantial realities.

The tables of ancient Rome were often garnished with dishes of Crawfish

served with asparagus; and it is our decided opinion that many worse

things are daily partaken of by the gourmands of this enlightened age,

notwithstanding the much-vaunted march of improvement in cookery.

The coral reefs fringing the island of Mauritius afford shelter

to members of the family of _Palinurus_, which in both size and

splendour of colouring far excel those taken in our seas. Some we had

an opportunity of examining when freshly caught, by the fishermen of

that fertile isle, looked so much like works of art that we could

almost fancy Pallisey, that king of potters, must have returned to

life, and that these were some of his choicest productions. Some

were of delicate sea-green banded with white and ultra-marine blue,

alternately. Others were striped with pale yellow, black, and green,

whilst all were so highly glazed, and carried such a brilliant polish,

that we deeply regretted the perishable nature of living things, and

sighed as we reflected on the waste of so much loveliness on the more

than half-heathen crew of Malabar coolies who grinned and chattered

round the captives, and who had no appreciation whatever for crustacean

perfection, except in association with rice and a brass cooking-pot.

[Illustration]

THE COMMON RIVER CRAYFISH.

(_Astacus fluviatilis._)

This little crustacean is very abundant in many of the rivers of

England, although it is by no means as general as might be anticipated

from its habits and mode of life. Rivulets and rivers in which clear

streams flow, are its favourite resort, and the holes amongst the roots

of trees, stones, or banks beneath the water, form snug retreats for

it. It is somewhat strange that in the western portion of England,

where running streams abound, the fresh water Cray is (except by name)

unknown. Its food consists of animal substances, the spawn of fish,

vegetable matter, the larvæ of water insects, &c. The rich scarlet

colour assumed after boiling makes the Cray a great favourite for

garnishing purposes; pic-nic parties are often formed for the sport

afforded in taking them. Long sticks or rods with cord lines, to which

pieces of bait are tied, are made use of to allure the Cray within the

reach of a small hand-net, when he is scooped out; some enterprising

anglers endeavour to throw them over their heads without using the net,

others in their anxiety to inveigle the coquettish crustacean, slip

on some slippery tree-trunk or moss-grown stone, and pay an unwilling

visit to the home of the Crays at the bottom. Pinched fingers and other

small catastrophes serve but to add to the general fun and hilarity of

the river-side revellers. In some of the West India Islands torchlight

expeditions of a like character are made to the streams flowing from

the hills, and the Crays lifted out, after having been previously

treated to pieces of _manioc_-root abundantly cast in the water for

them. This substance has the property of stupefying such shell-fish as

are silly enough to eat it, and the Cray pays the penalty of his too

unsuspicious disposition. The rivers of France are abundantly supplied

with _Ecrevisses_, as they are called in that country; enormous numbers

are eaten every day in Paris, and the other large cities and towns of

the continent. They are prepared in various ways for the table, and the

celebrated _potage à la bisque_ is made from them.

A number of methods are had recourse to for their capture, amongst

which may be mentioned the sinking by stones, in localities known

to abound with them, rough bundles of thorn-sticks, with offal of

some description fastened up in them. The Crays, in their attempts

to obtain the dainty tit-bits, force their way through the entangled

twigs, and are unable to retreat with sufficient speed to escape being

drawn out when the Cray-catcher hooks out his treacherous _fascine_.

Small pieces of frog are highly esteemed baits. These are laid down

in considerable numbers along the course of the stream, and are after

some time visited, and the feasting Crays brought to bag. Some persons

are sufficiently indifferent to the nips they receive as to insert the

hand and arm beneath the roots and hollow banks, and so drag forth

their prey. There are other methods for Cray capture, but most of them

depend on the use of bait placed in traps, much like those used for

prawns, or some contrivance where entrance is easy and exit difficult,

and it is remarkable that in every country in the known world the same

principle is taken advantage of, in the construction of traps for fish,

birds, and animals. Whether we visit the almost unknown chains of ponds

among the gum-tree woods of Australia, the fern-clad river-banks of New

Zealand, the great streams flowing through North-west America, or the

tangled forests bordering the jeels, nullahs, and rivers of Central

India, basket traps of various sizes and forms, but all alike in their

mode of operation, will be found. Some we stumbled on while hunting

among the Bheels of Candeish were of elegant design,--trumpet mouthed,

and beautifully woven from the split-up fibres of single bamboo-joints,

the knot at the small end being left to form a sort of plug-hole,

through which the bait was introduced.

_A. fluviatilis_ shifts his shell, much in the same manner as his

salt-water cousins, and, like them, is painfully nervous and retiring

in his habits during the hardening of the new case with which nature in

due time protects him. Like the sea lobster, the Cray is wonderfully

prolific, producing as many as 100,000 eggs in the breeding season,

which are carried securely about for some time by the parent fish

tucked up under the abdomen, and defended by the lateral rows of legs

and claws. A notion prevails in some localities that the goodness

of water may be surely tested by boiling a Cray in it, when, if the

quality is all that could be wished, the colour of the Cray should be

clear and bright red; whereas, if impure, the fish is said to remain

dull and lustreless. This, although a very old opinion, appears much

on a par with the idea, equally old, that a frog in a tea-kettle would

prevent the water therein contained from ever boiling. We greatly

fear, however, that a good brisk fire would not only go far towards

dissipating the superstition, but at the same time make it peculiarly

unpleasant for the frog. It has been stated, on good authority,

that _A. fluviatilis_ lives to a good old age under favourable

circumstances. Desmarest says that it has been known to live for more

than twenty years, and that it increases in size as age advances.

We are disposed to think, however, that there must be a limit to

development far within twenty years, or we should at times encounter

some “grandfather Cray” who would be far more pleasant to follow than

to meet, at any rate in his own element.

The ancient Greeks appear, from the writings of early historians, to

have held the Cray in high esteem; and Alexandria had the reputation

for producing it of the best quality. The Romans, too, were not

behind-hand in their appreciation of the luxury, and some quaint

ingredients are mentioned by the old writers as being requisite to

complete the operations connected with its preparation. After being

boiled, we are told that the Cray was eaten flavoured with _cummin_ and

seasoned with pepper, _alisander_, parsley, dried mint, and more cummin

ground and mixed with honey, vinegar, and garum, with some liquid

perfume. Bosc informs us that “Crayfishes can be preserved several

days, not too warm, in baskets with some fresh grass, such as the

nettle, or in a bucket with three-eighths of an inch of water. If there

were enough water in it to cover them they would die in a few moments,

because their great consumption of air does not allow them to live in

water unless it is continually renewed.” The strange, mysterious waters

flowing through the mammoth caves of Kentucky contain, amongst other

wonders, considerable numbers of these interesting creatures; and we

have recently been favoured with a sight of two specimens of remarkable

size and beauty of form brought from the interior of Venezuela.

Although neither crab, shrimp, or lobster, the bold and adventurous

diver as a “submarine armour-clad,” holds a conspicuous position, as

with helmet of proof, and ponderous, metal-soled boots, he plunges

fearlessly beneath the wave, and prosecutes his researches “full

fathoms five,” amongst the strange, weird fastnesses and cavernous

depths of the deep sea. Huge and terrible as he with his eyes of glass,

and India-rubber skin, must appear to the lesser inhabitants of the

ocean’s realms, there are “Tritons amongst the minnows,” who fear

him not, and would think little of making a meal of him, in spite of

his crystalline eyes and indigestible equipment. The records of the

voyage of H.M.S. _Fawn_ serve to show that the human “armour-clad,”

when submarine in his occupations, is by no means “Monarch of all he

surveys.” “The gunner of the _Fawn_, being a very expert diver, was

employed to recover the treasure from the Peninsular and Oriental

Company’s ship _Ava_, wrecked a few years ago on the coast of Ceylon.

Having, in a gutta-percha dress, made his way into the saloon, he was

busily searching for the bullion, when, to his horror, he saw a huge

ground shark come sailing in at the door. With great presence of mind

he lay motionless on the locker, and watched it silently and quietly

cruising about. One can well imagine his feelings when he saw its cold

green eyes fixed upon him, and felt it pushing against the leaden soles

of his boots, and rubbing against his dress, the slightest puncture

in which would have been certain destruction. About ten minutes of

suspense were thus passed, which must have seemed an age, during which

the monster came back twice or thrice to have another look at him. Mr.

Pound’s courage and coolness were at length rewarded by seeing him

steering his way back as he came. Afterwards, Mr. Pound always armed

himself with a dagger when he went down to the wreck, from which he

recovered altogether 22,000_l._, having spent some 850 hours under

water. He had also some narrow escapes at times from the opening

and shutting of the iron plates of the ship as they worked with the

roll of the sea. The air-pipe was twice severed from his helmet, but

fortunately, slackening it warned the people above to lose no time in

rescuing him from his perilous position.”

One is almost tempted to envy the cunning, miserly old crabs, who

have it all their own way down amongst the branching coralines and

vase-shaped sponges, and crawl to their very hearts’ content over the

piles of sunken treasures scattered there. Treasures are there, too,

not of man’s garnering, growing like rich sea-flowers beneath the

waves. The sea feathers, or _plume corals_, are examples of these,

and are found sprouting, like ocean fern-leaves, from the rock cave’s

ledges, far down in the deep still water between the reefs; and we

shall see how a love for the beauty of Nature’s handiwork not only

led to the crabs being deprived of their hoard, but, favoured by good

fortune, proved a guide to wealth, station, and ultimately, nobility.

Thus goes the story, which, unlike many of a somewhat similar kind, has

the priceless advantage of being literally true. In the year 1650, one

Phipps, a blacksmith, of Pemaquid, in New England, was blessed with a

son, who was christened William, and who in very early life manifested

much ingenuity and a passion for ship-building. Very shortly after

the term of his apprenticeship to a shipwright had expired, he built

a vessel for himself, which he navigated in person; and hearing it

reported that a Spanish ship, freighted with bullion, had sunk in the

neighbourhood of the Bahamas, he at once betook himself to the scene

of the disaster, and made the most determined but fruitless efforts

to recover the lost gold. Treasure-seeking now appears to have become

a fixed occupation with Captain Phipps. In the year 1683 we find

him employed by the English Government to discover another lost ship

(also Spanish), of immense value. This he failed in accomplishing, but

became convinced that perseverance in the search would be ultimately

crowned with success. For five years he was unsuccessful in his urgent

applications for funds to renew his investigations, when the Duke

of Albemarle, the then Governor of Jamaica, not only fully credited

the assurances of Captain Phipps, but, better still, furnished him

with ample means and fitting apparatus for his new expedition. How he

reached the scene of his labours--how every lagune and gulf between

the reefs was searched in vain, until hope well-nigh vanished--we need

not dwell on here. No wreck could be discovered, and he had almost

determined to abandon the undertaking in despair, when, after a day of

more than ordinary fatigue and anxious exploration amongst the coral

rocks, his boat’s crew were rowing him slowly and dejectedly back to

his ship, one of the sailors directed his attention to a beautiful _sea

feather_, growing from the ledges of a sunken rock. “Alas!” said poor

Phipps, “there is a sea treasure indeed. I wish I could get it.”

One of the good-humoured black divers who accompanied him, anxious

to oblige his commander, shot rapidly down to the coveted specimen,

and just as rapidly returned with it, exclaiming--“_Feather safe,

fine feather, but plenty big cannon down where feather live._” This

report, as may be readily imagined, made the sinking heart of the poor

captain leap again. Blackey was despatched to the regions below to

take another look at matters, and after a short absence came back with

the glorious news that there were “_plenty big boxes too, and lots of

this_,”--exhibiting his dusky paws filled with silver. Now the captain

was in his true element at last; and there lay the work he loved so

well, ready cut out for him; and he proved quite equal to the occasion,

for from that deep gulf, far down among the corals and the Crabs, in

whose custody it had quietly remained for more than half a century,

he brought to light thirty-two tons of silver bullion, besides large

quantities of gold, pearls, and other valuables. We find that Phipps

was knighted by James II. He was appointed Sheriff of New England, and

took command of a large expeditionary force against the French. We

afterwards find him in command of a fleet fitted out to oppose the same

enemy in Canada, and subsequently taking part in the Border warfare of

the period, as a leader of some celebrity; and at this point of his

career we bid adieu to Sir James Phipps and the happy-chance discovery

which led him on to greatness.

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