The harbour of Messina is formed by a small promontory or neck of land
that runs off from the east end of the city, and separates that
beautiful basin from the rest of the Straits. The shape of this
promontory is that of a reaping-hook, the curvature of which forms the
harbour, and secures it from all winds. From the striking resemblance of
its form, the Greeks, who never gave a name that did not either describe
the object or express some of its most remarkable properties, called
this place Zancle, or the Sickle, and feigned that the sickle of Saturn
fell on this spot, and gave it its form. But the Latins, who were not
quite so fond of fable, changed its name to Messina, (from _Messis_, a
harvest,) because of the great fertility of its fields. It is certainly
one of the safest harbours in the world after ships have got in; but it
is likewise one of the most difficult access. The celebrated gulf or
whirlpool of Charybdis lies near to its entry, and often occasions such
an intestine and irregular motion in the water, that the helm loses most
of its power, and ships have great difficulty to get in, even with the
fairest wind that can blow. This whirlpool, I think, is probably formed
by the small promontory I have mentioned; which contracting the Straits
in this spot, must necessarily increase the velocity of the current; but
no doubt other causes, of which we are ignorant, concur, for this will
by no means account for all the appearances which it has produced. The
great noise occasioned by the tumultuous motion of the waters in this
place, made the ancients liken it to a voracious sea-monster perpetually
roaring for its prey; and it has been represented by their authors, as
the most tremendous passage in the world. Aristotle gives a long and a
formidable description of it in his 125th chapter _De Admirandis_, which
I find translated in an old Sicilian book I have got here. It begins,
“Adeo profundum, horridumque spectaculum, &c.” but it is too long to
transcribe. It is likewise described by Homer, 12th of the Odyssey;
Virgil, 3d Æneid; Lucretius, Ovid, Sallust, Seneca, as also by many of
the old Italian and Sicilian poets, who all speak of it in terms of
horror; and represent it as an object that inspired terror, even when
looked on at a distance. It certainly is not now so formidable; and very
probably, the violence of this motion, continued for so many ages, has
by degrees worn smooth the rugged rocks and jutting shelves, that may
have intercepted and confined the waters. The breadth of the Straits
too, in this place, I make no doubt is considerably enlarged. Indeed,
from the nature of things it must be so; the perpetual friction
occasioned by the current must wear away the bank on each side, and
enlarge the bed of the water.
The vessels in this passage were obliged to go as near as possible to
the coast of Calabria, in order to avoid the suction occasioned by the
whirling of the waters in this vortex; by which means when they came to
the narrowest and most rapid part of the Straits, betwixt Cape Pelorus
and Scylla, they were in great danger of being carried upon that rock.
From whence the proverb, still applied to those, who in attempting to
avoid one evil fall into another.
There is a fine fountain of white marble on the key, representing
Neptune holding Scylla and Charybdis chained, under the emblematical
figures of two sea-monsters, as represented by the poets.
The little neck of land, forming the harbour of Messina, is strongly
fortified. The citadel, which is indeed a very fine work, is built on
that part which connects it with the main land. The farthermost point,
which runs out to sea, is defended by four small forts, which command
the entry into the harbour. Betwixt these lie the lazaret, and a
lighthouse to warn sailors of their approach to Charybdis, as that other
on Cape Pelorus is intended to give them notice of Scylla.
It is probably from these lighthouses (by the Greeks called Pharoi) that
the whole of this celebrated Strait has been denominated the Faro of
Messina.
* * * * *
According to Brydone, the hazard to sailors was less in his time than
the Nestor of song, and the poet of the Æneid, had depicted in theirs.
In 1824, Capt. W. H. Smyth, to whom a survey of the coast of Sicily was
intrusted by the lords of the Admiralty, published a “Memoir” in 1824,
with the latest and most authentic accounts of these celebrated classic
spots--viz.: