_Interlaken, Switzerland._
Sunday, Sept. 10, 1826.
I arrived at Geneva, after a ride of a day and a night, from Lyons,
through a delightful mountainous country. The steam-boat carried me from
Geneva to Lausanne, a very pretty town, at the other end of the fine
lake, from whence I went to Berne, one of the principal towns in
Switzerland, and the most beautiful I have seen yet. It is extremely
clean, and therefore it was quite a treat, after the French towns, which
are filthy.
Berne is convenient residence, both in sunny and wet weather, for all
the streets have arcades, under which the shops are in this way, so
that people are not obliged to walk in the middle of the street at all.
The town is protected by strong fortifications, but the ramparts are
changed into charming lawns and walks. There are also delightful
terraces on the river side, commanding the surrounding country, which is
enchanting--rich woods and fertile valleys, swelling mountains, and
meadows like velvet; and, beyond all, the snowy Alps.
[Illustration]
At Berne I equipped myself as most persons do who travel on foot through
Switzerland; I have seen scores of young men all in the same pedestrian
costume. I give you a sketch, that you may have a better idea of it.
[Illustration]
The dress is a light sort of smock-frock, with a leather belt round the
waist, a straw hat, a knapsack on the back, and a small bottle, covered
with leather, to carry spirits, fastened round the neck by a leather
strap. The long pole is for climbing up the mountains, and jumping over
the ice.
From Berne I arrived at Thun. The fine lake of Thun is surrounded by
mountains of various forms, and I proceeded along it to this place. I
have been on the lake of Brientys and to Lauterbrunnen, where there is
the celebrated waterfall, called the “Stubach;” it falls about 800 feet;
the rocks about it are exceedingly romantic, and close to it are the
snowy mountains, among which I should particularize the celebrated “Yung
frow,” which has never been ascended.
Interlaken is surrounded by mountains, and its scenery for sketches
delicious. It is a village, built nearly all of wood; the houses are
the prettiest things I ever saw: they are in this way,
[Illustration]
but much more beautiful than I can show in a small sketch. They are
delicately clean, and mostly have fine vines and plenty of grapes about
them. The stones on the roof are to keep the wood from being blown off.
Then the people dress so well, and all look so happy, that it is a
pleasure to be among them. I cannot understand a word they say, and yet
they are all civil and obliging. If any children happen to see me
drawing out of doors, they always run to fetch a chair for me. The women
are dressed in this manner.
[Illustration]
The poor people and ladies are in the same style exactly: the caps are
made of horsehair, and the hair dressed quite plain in front, and
plaited behind almost to the ground with black ribbons. They wear silver
chains from each side of the bosom, to pass under the arms, and fasten
on the back. They are not all pretty, but they are particularly clean
and neat. There is nothing remarkable in the men’s dress, only that I
observe on a Sunday they wear white nightcaps: every man that I can see
now out of my window has one on; and they are all playing at ball and
nine-pins, just as they do in France. There is another kind of cap worn
here made of silk; this is limp, and does not look so well. They have
also a flat straw hat.
[Illustration]
The women work much more than the men; they even row the boats on the
lakes. All the Swiss, however, are very industrious; and I like
Switzerland altogether exceedingly. I leave this place to-morrow, and am
going on to the beautiful valley of Sornen, (there was a view of it in
the Diorama,) and then to the lake of the four cantons, or lake of
Lucerne, and round the canton of the Valais to Geneva, and from thence
for the lakes of Italy. If you examine a map for these places, it will
be an amusement for you.
Lady Byron has been here for two days; she is making a tour of
Switzerland. There are several English passing through. I can scarcely
give you a better notion of the situation of this beautiful little
village, than by saying that it is in a valley between two lakes, and
that there are the most charming walks you can imagine to the eminences
on the river side, and along the borders of the lakes. There are more
goats here than in Wales: they all wear a little bell round their neck;
and the sheep and cows being similarly distinguished, the movement of
the flocks and herds keep an incessant tinkling, and relieve the
stillness of the beauteous scenery.
* * * * *
~Gretna Green Marriages.~