From the date of the occurrences just described--namely the 27th of
February--the siege of Bayonne may be said to have fairly commenced. To
follow in regular detail the events of each day as it proceeded would
not, I am sure, greatly interest my readers; and to lay such detail
before them would be to myself an occupation little less irksome than
it sometimes was to kill the tedious hours of a ten weeks' blockade.
I may be permitted, therefore, to state generally, and in few words,
that the strictest investment was continued all the while, and that
an extremely harassing kind of duty was imposed upon us till the
siege and the war were brought to an end together by the hoisting of
the white flag on the 28th of the following April. Premising this, I
shall merely take the liberty of narrating, without regard to dates or
natural order, such incidents and adventures as appeared to myself best
deserving of record at the time.
In the first place, then, it may be observed that, while on our
side of the river no other works were erected than such as appeared
indispensable for strengthening our own position, and rendering the
bridge and the highroad, and the stores brought up by them, secure, the
Guards and Germans on the other side were busily employed in digging
trenches, and pushing forward active operations against the citadel.
These, as may be imagined, they were not permitted to carry on without
being annoyed in every practicable manner by the besieged. A continual,
or rather a dropping and irregular fire of cannon, was kept up upon
their parties from the ramparts, to which even the darkness of the
night brought no cessation; for blue-lights were thrown out wherever
the people were at work, the flame of which guided the artillerymen
in taking aim. Nor were we wholly exempt from that species of
entertainment. On the contrary, as the erection of a three-gun battery
on the top of our hill was deemed necessary, we worked at it by turns
till it was completed; and, as a matter of course, we worked under the
fire of all the cannon and mortars which could be brought to bear upon
us. These working parties are by far the most unpleasant of all the
employments to which a soldier is liable. There is in them nothing of
excitement, with a great deal of danger; and danger, where there is no
excitement, no man would voluntarily choose to incur for its own sake.
Let me describe one of these mornings' amusements.
It fell to my lot frequently to superintend the people when at work.
The spot on which we laboured was high, and therefore completely
exposed to the view of the enemy. It was the top of the hill opposite
to them. Immediately on our arrival, a four-gun battery, with one
howitzer and two nine-inch mortars, began to play upon us. They were
well served, for the balls hit apparently in every quarter except the
particular spots on which each of us stood. On such occasions, if
there be no very pressing demand for the completion of the work, you
generally station one of your party to watch. As soon as he perceives
a flash he calls out--"Shot," or "Shell," as the case may be. If it be
simply a cannon-shot, you either toil on without heeding it, or having
covered yourself as well as you can till the ball strike, you start
up again and seize your tools. If it be a shell, you lie quite still
till it burst. The unmilitary reader may perhaps question whether it
be possible to tell the nature of the missile which is coming against
you, when as yet it has barely escaped from the muzzle of the gun,
and is still a mile or more distant; but he who has been in the habit
of attending to these matters will entertain no such doubt. Not to
mention the fact that an experienced eye can trace, by means of the
burning fuze, the whole journey of a shell through the air, from its
expulsion till its fall, the more perpendicular flight of the smoke may
of itself inform him who takes the trouble to observe when it issues
from a mortar; and there is a sharpness in the report of a gun which
will effectually distinguish the one from the other, even if the sense
of sight should fail. I have heard men assert that they can trace, not
only a shell, but a cannon-ball through the air. This may be possible;
but if it be, it is possible only to those whose sense of sight is far
more acute than mine.
Though abundantly annoying, the cannonade of which I am speaking
proved but little destructive of human life. I do not believe, though
continued for several weeks, it cost us five men. Neither was an
attempt which the enemy by-and-by made to shell us out of our position
more successful. Hidden from their view by the sand-hills, we lay
exposed only to such aim as a calculation of distances might enable
their gunners to take; and this, besides that it was not always very
accurate, had, in the nature of the soil on which our tents stood,
much to defeat it. Shells falling among loose sand bury themselves
so far into the ground as to take away a good deal from the force of
their destructiveness. Probably the French artillerists guessed, from
the perfect indifference with which we treated them, that they were
wasting their ammunition. At all events, they slackened their fire by
degrees, and by-and-by restrained it altogether.
Unless my memory greatly deceive me, the chief subject of complaint
amongst us at this time was that we were fettered to one spot, and
that there was not in our situation peril or excitement enough to
hinder us from feeling the confinement as a grievous restraint. Though
tolerably secure, from the nature of the ground, our post was one of
vast importance--that is to say, had the enemy succeeded in forcing
it, they might have easily made their way to the bridge ere any fresh
troops could be brought to oppose them. Under these circumstances, it
was considered imprudent to wander far or frequently from the tents;
and hence even the resource of fishing and shooting was in a great
measure taken away from us. My friend and I did indeed occasionally
venture into the woods; but these excursions were too rare to be very
profitable, and our limits too confined to furnish an abundance of game.
The reader is not, however, to suppose that all our days and night
partook of the same tame character. Independently of the usual round
of outpost duty (a duty which, to me at least, was never irksome,
because it always served to keep my interest awake), a deserter would,
from time to time, come over, and bring with him rumours of sorties
intended. One of these brought with it a more than ordinary degree of
excitement. We were sitting one Sunday evening, Grey and myself, in
the upper loft of an old mill, where, by way of an indulgence, we had
established ourselves. The commanding officer had read prayers to the
battalion about half an hour previously, and the parade had just been
dismissed, when a sergeant clambered up the ladder to inform us that
the servants and batmen were commanded to sleep accoutred, that the
horses were to be saddled, and the baggage in readiness to move at a
moment's notice. On inquiring into the cause of this order, we learned
that a French officer had arrived in camp, that he had brought with him
intelligence that a sortie would take place a little before midnight,
and that the garrison were already making preparations for the attack.
As may be supposed, we put everything in proper trim forthwith; and
having seen that our men lay down, with knapsacks buckled up, and
pouches and bayonets slung on, we too threw ourselves on the floor in
our clothes.
It might be about eleven o'clock when we were startled from our repose
by the firing of cannon. The sound was, however, distant: it evidently
came from the opposite side of the river, and it was followed by no
musketry. We watched it, therefore, for a while, anxiously enough,
and sat up prepared to issue forth as soon as our presence might be
required. But no bugle sounded, nor was any other summons given; so
we lay down again, and the night passed by in peace. I have reason
to believe, however, that the French officer had not deceived us. An
attack upon our position had been seriously intended, and the plan was
abandoned only because this officer being missed, it was conjectured
that we should be fully prepared to repel it.
Another little affair took place soon afterwards. Whether our posts on
the left of Anglete had been of late pushed somewhat more in advance
than formerly I cannot tell; but the enemy sent a message one morning
by a flag of truce to the officer in command, desiring that he would
fall back, otherwise they would compel him. The demand was of course
met by a peremptory refusal, and they, having allowed him an hour
to change his mind, proceeded to carry their threat into execution.
A considerable body of light troops attacked the post, and a sharp
skirmish ensued. The sound of firing soon drew assistance to our
picket; and the result was, that the French once more retired within
their works, leaving us in possession of the disputed ground. This
event, with many others which I have not recorded, because they have
in them even less of interest, occurred during the remaining days of
February and the whole of March. On the 1st of April our position was
changed, and we took from that period a more active part in the conduct
of the siege.
The change of ground to which I now allude proved, at least for a day
or two, extremely agreeable to the corps in general. My friend and
myself had, indeed, as I have already stated, fixed our abode in an old
mill--close to the camp, yet sufficiently apart from it to be freed
from the bustle. It was a ruinous and dilapidated mansion, I admit;
our living and sleeping chamber consisting simply of one half of a
loft, and only of one half, because the flooring of the other half had
given way; to which we ascended by means of a ladder or trap-stair, and
from which we looked down upon our horses and mules that occupied the
basement story. But in that old mill, the tiling of which was unsealed,
and can hardly be said to have been proof against the weather, I spent
some weary and many more pleasant evenings; for, ruinous as it was, it
appeared comfortable to men who repaired to it from the sandy ground on
which they had previously spent several days and nights under cover of
the canvas. Though, therefore, I cannot accuse myself of murmuring at
the removal of the camp, it is quite certain that I partook not in the
general rejoicing which the occurrence produced among my comrades; or
that the beauty of the spot to which my tent was transferred at all
compensated for the loss of a boarded floor and a detached habitation.
It was, however, a delightful change to the majority. During the last
week or ten days the heat of the sun had become exceedingly oppressive,
beating, as it did, through the white canvas, and having its rays
reflected back on all hands from a grey sandy soil. Not a tree grew
near to shelter us; nor was there a blade of grass within sight on
which the weary eye could repose. On the 1st of April we retired about
a couple of miles into the heart of a pine-wood, and left the sand-hill
to be guarded by the pickets alone. Our tents were pitched in a sweet
little green vale, overshadowed with the dark foliage of the fir-trees,
and near the margin of a small lake or pond of clear water. Here we
remained in a state of comparative idleness and enjoyment for three
days--running and leaping, and causing the men to run and leap for
prizes--till an order arrived in the evening of the 3d, that we should
be under arms at daybreak on the morrow, and cross the bridge to take
part in the fatigues and dangers of the trenches.
At an early hour on the 4th we formed into marching order and took
the direction of the bridge. This we crossed, the planks waving and
bending as the cables swung to and fro with our tread; and then filing
to the right, we halted in an open field above the village of Boucaut,
where the ground of encampment was marked out. It was a day of heavy
rain, so we were thoroughly saturated by the way; and as several hours
elapsed ere the baggage came up, we were compelled to continue in that
uncomfortable plight all the while. It came at length, however, and
our tents were pitched; after which, having substituted dry for wet
apparel, I spent the rest of the evening in lounging among the numerous
stalls and booths which surrounded the market-place.
The village of Boucaut presented at this period a curious spectacle.
It was not deserted by its inhabitants--all, or the greater number of
whom, remained quietly in their houses. Their little shops were not
closed; the inns--for there were two in the place--so far from being
abandoned, were thronged with customers; cooks, waiters, landlady,
and mine host were all in motion from morning till night; and crowds
of peasantry came and went all day long laden with eggs, butter,
cheese, poultry, and other luxuries. These articles of merchandise
were exposed for sale in the centre of the market-place--a large
square surrounded by high walls, along the sides of which sutlers'
tents, porter booths, confectioners' stalls, and even tables loaded
with hardware, shoes, stockings, &c., were laid out in regular order.
The place was, moreover, full of people--soldiers, camp-followers,
villagers, peasants, male and female; and much laughing and great
merriment prevailed in every direction. To a mere spectator there was
constant food for amusement; in the fruitless endeavours of an English
soldier, for example, to make love to a pretty French girl; or in the
vain efforts of a staid German to overreach some volatile but mercenary
villager; whilst the ceaseless gabbling in all European tongues--the
attempts made on all hands to carry on by signs that conversation to
which the faculty of speech lent no assistance;--to watch these, and
a thousand other extravagances, furnished ample and very agreeable
employment to one who was willing to find amusement where he could. Yet
with all this apparent confusion the greatest regularity prevailed.
Not a single instance of violence to a native, either in person or
property, occurred; indeed, both men and women scrupled not to assure
us that they felt themselves far more secure under our protection than
they had been while their own countrymen were among them.
It was our business, so long as the camp stood here, to move up every
morning to the front, and to work in turns at the erection of batteries
and redoubts, within half musket-shot of the walls of the citadel. The
spot where I usually found myself stationed when my turn of duty came
round, was a chateau situated upon the brow of an eminence, from the
windows and garden of which I obtained a distinct view of one flank of
the castle. Upon this building an incessant fire of round-shot, shells,
grape, and occasionally of musketry, was kept up. The enemy had upon
their walls a number of long swivel-guns, which they could elevate or
depress, or turn in any direction at will, and with which as perfect an
aim could be taken as with an ordinary carbine. These threw with great
force iron balls of about a quarter of a pound weight. Beside them men
were always stationed, who watched our movements so closely that it was
impossible to show so much as your head at a window, or over the wall,
without being saluted by a shot; whilst from time to time a nine-inch
shell would tumble through the roof, and burst sometimes before we
had time to escape into another apartment. Then the crashing of the
cannon-balls as they rushed through the partitions--the occasional
rattle of grape and canister which came pouring in by the windows,--all
these things combined, produced a species of feeling of which no words
can convey an adequate notion to him who has not experienced it. It
was not terror--it can hardly be called alarm, for we followed our
occupations unceasingly, and even our mirth was uninterrupted; but it
kept the mind wound up to a pitch of excitation from which it was by no
means an unpleasant matter to relieve it.
Ours was a mortar-battery. It was formed by heaping up earth against
the interior of the garden wall, and proceeded with great rapidity. We
likewise cut down trees, and constructed out of their branches fascines
and gabions; but we had nothing to do in the trenches. Of these,
indeed, not more than a couple were dug, the uneven nature of the
ground producing numerous valleys and hollows, which saved us a great
deal of toil, and very sufficiently supplied their place.
Besides taking charge of working parties, it came occasionally to my
turn to command a picket. The post of which I was put in charge was the
village of St Esprit, and the church formed the headquarters of the
guard. It was a small building, but, fortunately for us, constructed
with great solidity, inasmuch as it stood under the very muzzles of
half-a-dozen field-pieces, which the enemy had placed in a redoubt
about a short stone's-throw distant. To add to its strength, and to
render it more tenable in case of attack, an embankment of earth--of
earth carried from the churchyard, and so mixed with the mouldering
bones of "the rude forefathers of the village"--was raised inside, to
the height of perhaps four feet, above which ran a line of loopholes,
cut out for the purpose of giving to its garrison an opportunity of
firing with effect. When I say that the church formed the headquarters
of the guard, I mean that the guard took up its station there during
the night. So long as daylight lasted the men kept as much as possible
concealed behind a few houses in the rear of the building, and left
only a single sentinel there to watch the movements of the enemy.
A little to the right of my post were a couple of barricades, the
one cutting off the main road, the other blocking up the entrance
to a cross-street in the village. Beside these respectively stood a
six-pounder gun. They were, I should conceive, about long pistol-shot
from the walls of the castle, and formed our most advanced stations.
Our line of sentinels ran through the churchyard and streets, winding
away by the right and left as the shape of the place required; and they
were planted as close to one another as the occurrence of trees, or
other species of cover, would permit. For the French were no longer the
magnanimous enemy we had found them in the open field. Every man, no
matter whether a sentry or a lounger, who could be seen, was fired at;
nor could the reliefs be carried on as under ordinary circumstances.
No corporal's party marched round here, but the men themselves stole
one by one to the particular spots allotted to them, those whom they
came to relieve stealing away after a similar fashion. Yet even thus we
seldom returned to the camp without bringing a wounded man or two back
with us, or leaving a dead comrade behind.
At night the utmost vigilance was necessary. The enemy were so close to
us that the slightest carelessness on our part would have given them
free and secure access through our chain--a circumstance which rendered
it impracticable for the vedettes to give sufficient warning to men
who should not be at every moment in a state of preparation. No man
slept, or so much as lay down. The privates stood round the embankment
within the church, as if they had been all on watch; the officer crept
about from place to place in front of it, or listened with deep anxiety
to every sound. In these wanderings the conversation of the French
soldiers could be distinctly overheard, so near were the troops of the
two nations to each other, and so perilous, or rather so momentous, was
the duty which we were called upon to perform.