FOOTNOTES:

[1] It is related that in the year 1784 William Rathbone, an American

merchant resident in Liverpool, received from one of his

correspondents in the southern states a consignment of eight bags of

cotton, which on its arrival in Liverpool was seized by the

custom-house officers, on the allegation that it could not have been

grown in the United States, and that it was liable to seizure under

the Shipping Acts, as not being imported in a vessel belonging to the

country of its growth. When afterwards released, it lay for many

months unsold, in consequence of the spinners doubting whether it

could be profitably worked up.

[2] Taken with some modifications from the _Agricultural News_ (1907),

vi. p. 38.

[3] Cotton Production 1906, _U.S.A. Bureau of the Census_, Bulletin

No. 76.

[4] _Cotton Culture and the Cotton Trade_, p. 298.

[5] _The Cotton Trade of Great Britain_, by Thomas Ellison, p. 186.

[6] See article on "Dealings in Futures in the Cotton Market," in the

_Journal of the Royal Statistical Society_, vol. lxix, p. 325.

[7] Journal of the Statistical Society, 1906.

[8] See paper in the Journal of the Statistical Society for June 1906.

[9] Attempts to explain them were made in an article in the _Economic

Journal_ in December 1904, and in the paper already referred to read

to the Royal Statistical Society.

[10] See the paper already mentioned in the _Journal of the Royal

Statistical Society_ for June 1906, where the several points noticed

briefly above are fully discussed.

[11] The Association published a weekly paper known as The Cotton

Supply Reporter.

COTTON MANUFACTURE. The antiquity of the cotton industry has hitherto

proved unfathomable, as can readily be understood from the difficulty of

proving a universal negative, especially from such scanty material as we

possess of remote ages. That in the 5th century B.C. cotton fabrics were

unknown or quite uncommon in Europe may be inferred from Herodotus'

mention of the cotton clothing of the Indians. Ultimately the cotton

industry was imported into Europe, and by the middle of the 13th century

we find it flourishing in Spain. In the New World it would seem to have

originated spontaneously, since on the discovery of America the wearing

apparel in use included cotton fabrics. After the collapse of Spanish

prosperity before the Moors in the 14th century the Netherlands assumed

a leadership in this branch of the textile industries as they did also

in other branches. It has been surmised that the cotton manufacture was

carried from the Netherlands to England by refugees during the Spanish

persecution of the second half of the 16th century; but no absolute

proof of this statement has been forthcoming, and although workers in

cotton may have been among the Flemish weavers who fled to England about

that time, and some of whom are said to have settled in and about

Manchester, it is quite conceivable that cotton fabrics were made on an

insignificant scale in England years before, and there is some evidence

to show that the industry was not noticeable till many years later. If

England did derive her cotton manufacture from the Netherlands she was

unwillingly compelled to repay the loan with interest more than two

hundred years later when the machine industry was conveyed to the

continent through the ingenuity of Lievin Bauwens, despite the

precautions taken to preserve it for the British Isles. About the same

time English colonists transported it to the United States. Since, as

transformed in England, the cotton industry, particularly spinning, has

spread throughout the civilized and semi-civilized world, though its

most important seat still remains the land of its greatest development.

Early history in England.

As early as the 13th century cotton-wool was used in England for

candle-wicks.[1] The importation of the cotton from the Levant in the

16th century is mentioned by Hakluyt,[2] and according to Macpherson it

was brought over from Antwerp in 1560. Reference to the manufacture of

cottons in England long before the second half of the 16th century are

numerous, but the "cottons" spoken of were not cottons proper as Defoe

would seem to have mistakenly imagined. Thus, for example, there is a

passage by William Camden (writing in 1590) quoted below, in which

Manchester cottons are specifically described as woollens, and there is

a notice in the act of 33 Henry VIII. (c. xv.) of the Manchester linen

and woollen industries, and of cottons--which are clearly woollens since

their "dressyng and frisyng" is noted, and the latter process, which

consists in raising and curling the nap, was not applicable to cotton

textiles. John Leland, after his visit to Manchester about 1538, used

these words--"Bolton-upon-Moore market standeth most by cottons; divers

villages in the Moores about Bolton do make cottons." Leland, it is

true, might conceivably be referring to manufactures from the vegetable

fibre, but it is exceedingly unlikely, since the term "cottons" would

seem to have been current with a perfectly definite meaning. The goods

were probably an English imitation in wool of continental cotton

fustians--which would explain the name. Again we may quote from the act

of 5 and 6 Edward VI., "all the cottons called _Manchester_, Lancashire

and Cheshire _cottons_, full wrought to the sale, shall be in length

twenty-two yards and contain in breadth three-quarters of a yard in the

water and shall weigh thirty pounds in the piece at least"; and from the

act 8 Elizabeth c. xi., "every of the said cottons being sufficiently

milled or thicked, clean scoured, well-wrought and full-dried, shall

weigh 21 lb. at the least."[3] These are evidently the weights of woollen

goods: further, it may be observed that milling is not applicable to

cotton goods. The earliest reference to a cotton manufacture in England

which may reasonably be regarded as pointing to the fabrication of

textiles from cotton proper, is in the will of James Billston (a not

un-English name), who is described as a "cotton manufacturer," proved at

Chester in 1578.[4] It may plausibly be contended that James Billston

was a worker in the vegetable fibre, since otherwise "manufacturer of

cottons" would have been a more natural designation. But the proof of

the will of one cotton manufacturer establishes very little.

The next earliest known reference to the cotton industry proper occurs

in a petition to the earl of Salisbury, made presumably in 1610, asking

for the continuance of a grant for reforming frauds committed in the

manufacture of "bambazine cotton such as groweth in the land of Persia

being no kind of wool."[5] But a far more valuable piece of evidence,

discovered by W. H. Price, is a petition of "Merchants and citizens of

London that use buying and selling of fustians made in England, as of

the makers of the same fustians."[6] Its probable date is 1621, and it

contains the following important passages:--

"About twenty years past, divers people in this kingdom, but chiefly

in the county of Lancaster, have found out the trade of making of

other fustians, made of a kind of bombast or down, being a fruit of

the earth growing upon little shrubs or bushes, brought into this

kingdom by the Turkey merchants, from Smyrna, Cyprus, Acra and Sydon,

but commonly called cotton wool; and also of linen yarn most part

brought out of Scotland, and othersome made in England, and no part of

the same fustians of any wool at all, for which said bombast and yarn

imported, his majesty has a great yearly sum of money for the custom

and subsidy thereof.

"There is at the least 40 thousand pieces of fustian of this kind

yearly made in England, the subsidy to his majesty of the materials

for making of every piece coming to between 8d. and 10d. the piece;

and thousands of poor people set on working of these fustians.

"The right honourable duke of Lennox in 11 of Jacobus 1613 procured a

patent from his majesty, of alnager of new draperies for 60 years,

upon pretence that wool was converted into other sorts of commodities

to the loss of customs and subsidies for wool transported beyond seas;

and therein is inserted into his patent, searching and sealing; and

subsidy for 80 several stuffs; and among the rest these fustians or

other stuffs of this kind of cotton wool, and subsidy and a fee for

the same, and forfeiture of 20s. for putting any to sale unsealed, the

moiety of the same forfeiture to the said duke, and power thereby

given to the duke or his deputies, to enter any man's house to search

for any such stuffs, and seize them till the forfeiture be paid; and

if any resist such search, to forfeit L10 and power thereby given to

the lord treasurer or chancellor of the exchequer, to make new

ordinances or grant commissions for the aid of the duke and his

officers in execution of their office."

Here the date of the appearance of the cotton industry on an appreciable

scale--it is questionable whether any importance should be attached to

the expression "found out"--is given by those who would be speaking of

facts within the memory of themselves or their friends as "about twenty

years past" from 1621, and the annual output of the industry in 1621 is

mentioned. Moreover, it is established by this document that for a time

at least the cotton manufacture was "regulated" like the other textile

trades. The date assigned by the petitioners for the first attraction of

attention by the English cotton industry may be supported on negative

grounds.

Baines assures us that William Camden, who wrote in 1590, devoted not a

sentence to the cotton industry, though Manchester figures among his

descriptions: "This town," he says, "excels the towns immediately around

it in handsomeness, populousness, woollen manufacture, market place,

church and college; but did much more excel them in the last age, as

well by the glory of its woollen cloths (_laneorum pannorum honore_),

which they call Manchester cottons, as by the privilege of sanctuary,

which the authority of parliament under Henry VIII. transferred to

Chester."[7] It is significant too that in the Elizabethan poor law of

1601 (43 Elizabeth), neither cotton-wool nor yarn is included among the

fabrics to be provided by the overseers to set the poor to work upon;

though, of course, it might be argued that so short-stapled a fibre

needed for its working, when machinery was rough, a skill in the

operative which would be above that of the average person unable to find

employment. However, a proposal was made in 1626 to employ the poor in

the spinning of cotton and weaving wool.[8]

Prior to Mr Price's discovery of the petition mentioned above, the

earliest known notice of the existence in England of a cotton industry

of any magnitude was the oft-quoted passage from Lewes Roberts's

_Treasure of Traffic_ (1641), which runs: "The town of Manchester, in

Lancashire, must be also herein remembered, and worthily for their

encouragement commended, who buy the yarne of the Irish in great

quantity, and weaving it, return the same again into Ireland to sell:

Neither doth their industry rest here, for they buy cotton-wool in

London that comes first from Cyprus and Smyrna, and at home work the

same, and perfect it into fustians, vermillions, dimities and other such

stuffs, and then return it to London, where the same is vented and sold,

and not seldom sent into foreign parts."[9]

Despite Lewes Roberts's flattering reference, the trade of Manchester

about that time consisted chiefly in woollen frizes, fustians,

sackcloths, mingled stuffs, caps, inkles, tapes, points, &c., according

to "A Description of the Towns of Manchester and Salford," 1650,[10] and

woollens for a long time held the first place. But before another

century had run its course cottons proper had pushed into the first

rank, though the woollen industry continued to be of unquestionable

importance. In 1727 Daniel Defoe could write, "the grand manufacture

which has so much raised this town is that of cotton in all its

varieties,"[11] and he did not mean the woollen "cottons," as he made

plain by other references to the industry in the same connexion; but it

was not until some fifty years later that the ousting of the woollen

industry from what is now peculiarly the cotton district became

unmistakable.[12] As a rule the woollen weavers were driven farther and

farther east--Bury lay just outside the cotton area when Defoe

wrote--and finally many of them settled in the West Riding. Edwin

Butterworth even tells of woollen weavers who migrated from Oldham to

the distant town of Bradford in Wiltshire because of the decline of

their trade before the victorious cotton industry. Much the same fate

was being shared by the linen industry in Lancashire, which was forced

out of the county westwards and northwards. The explanation of the three

centralizations, namely of the woollen industry, the cotton industry and

the linen industry, is not far to seek. The popularity of the fabrics

produced by the rising cotton industry enabled it to pay high wages,

which, indeed, were essential to bring about its expansion. This a

priori diagnosis is supported by contemporary analysis: thus "the rapid

progress of that business (cotton spinning) and the higher wages which

it afford, have so far distressed the makers of worsted goods in that

county (Lancashire), that they have found themselves obliged to offer

their few remaining spinners larger premiums than the state of their

trade would allow."[13] The best operatives of Lancashire were attracted

sooner or later to assist the triumphs of art over the vegetable wool.

At the same time the scattered woollen and linen workers of Lancashire

were suffering from the competition of rivals enjoying elsewhere the

economies of some centralization, and the demand for woollen and linen

warps in the cotton industry ceased after the introduction of

Arkwright's water-twist. When the factory became common the economies of

centralization (which arise from the wide range of specialism laid open

to a large local industry) increased; moreover they were reinforced by

the diminution of social friction and the intensification of business

sensitiveness which marked the development of the 19th century. Once

begun, the centralizing movement proceeded naturally with accelerating

speed. The contrast beneath is an instructive statistical comment:--

_Distribution of Cotton Operatives in 1838 and 1898-1899 (from Returns

of Factory Inspectors)._

+--------------------------+--------------+---------------+

| | 1838. | 1898-1899. |

+--------------------------+--------------+---------------+

| Cheshire | 36,400 | 34,300 |

| Cumberland | 2,000 | 700 |

| Derbyshire | 10,500 | 10,500 |

| Lancashire | 152,200 | 398,100 |

| Nottinghamshire | 1,500 | 1,600 |

| Staffordshire | 2,000 | 2,300 |

| Yorkshire | 12,400 | 35,200 |

| +--------------+---------------+

| England and Wales[14] | 219,100 | 496,200 |

| Scotland | 35,600 | 29,000 |

| Ireland | 4,600 | 800 |

| +--------------+---------------+

| United Kingdom | 259,300 | 526,000 |

+--------------------------+--------------+---------------+

The distribution of the industry has varied greatly in the two periods.

If it had remained constant Lancashire would only have contained 300,000

operatives in 1899, instead of the actual 400,000. Scotland, on the

other hand, only contained 30,000 instead of 70,000, and in Ireland the

numbers were one-tenth of what they should have been. The percentage of

operatives in Lancashire in 1838 was 58.5, but this increased to 75.7 in

1898.

Lancashire advantages.

Why, we may naturally inquire, did not the cotton industry localize in

the West Riding or Cheshire and the woollen industry maintain its

position in Lancashire? Accident no doubt partly explains why the cotton

industry is carried on where it is in the various parts of the globe,

but apart from accident, as regards Lancashire, it is sufficient answer

to point to the peculiarly suitable congeries of conditions to be found

there. There is firstly the climate, which for the purpose of cotton

spinning is unsurpassed elsewhere, and which became of the first order

of importance when fine spinning was developed. In the Lancashire

atmosphere in certain districts just about the right humidity is

contained on a great number of days for spinning to be done with the

least degree of difficulty. Some dampness is essential to make the

fibres cling, but excessive moisture is a disadvantage. Over the county

of Lancashire the prevailing west wind carries comparatively continuous

currents of humidified air. These currents vary in temperature according

to their elevation. Hot and cold layers mix when they reach the hills,

and the mixture of the two is nearer to the saturation point than either

of its components. The degree of moisture is measured by the ratio of

the actual amount of moisture to the moisture of the saturation point

for that particular temperature. Owing to the sudden elevation the air

is rarefied, its temperature being thereby lowered, and in consequence

condensation tends to be produced. In several places in England and

abroad, where there is a scarcity of moisture, artificial humidifiers

have been tried, but no cheap and satisfactory one has hitherto been

discovered. To the advantages of the Lancashire climate for cotton

spinning must be added--especially as regards the early days of the

cotton industry--its disadvantages for other callings. The

unpleasantness of the weather renders an indoor occupation desirable,

and the scanty sunshine, combined with the unfruitful nature of much of

the soil, prevents the absorption of the population in agricultural

pursuits. In later years the port of Liverpool and the presence of coal

supplemented the attractions which were holding the cotton industry in

Lancashire. All the raw material must come from abroad, and an enormous

proportion of English cotton products figures as exports. The proximity

of Liverpool has aided materially in making the cotton industry a great

exporting industry.

Early system of manufacture and organisation.

Before the localization of the separate parts of the industry can be

treated the differentiation of the industry must be described. We pass

then, at this stage, to consider the manufacture in its earliest form

and the lines of its development. First, and somewhat incidentally, we

notice the early connexion between the conduct of the cotton

manufacture, when it was a domestic industry in its primitive form, and

the performance of agricultural operations. A few short extracts will

place before us all the evidence that it is here needful to adduce.

First Radcliffe, an eye-witness, writing of the period about 1770, says

"the land in our township (Mellor) was occupied by between fifty and

sixty farmers ... and out of these fifty or sixty farmers there were

only six or seven who raised their rents directly from the produce of

their farms, all the rest got their rent partly in some branch of trade,

such as spinning and weaving woollen, linen or cotton. The cottagers

were employed entirely in this matter, except for a few weeks in the

harvest."[15] Next we may cite Edwin Butterworth who, though not an

eyewitness (he was not born till 1812), proved himself by his researches

to be a careful and trustworthy investigator. In the parish of Oldham,

he recorded, there were "a number of master (cotton-linen fustian)[16]

manufacturers, as well as many weavers who worked for manufacturers, and

at the same time were holders of land or farmers.... The number of

fustian farmers who were cottagers working for manufacturers, without

holding land, were few; but there were a considerable number of weavers

who worked on their own account, and held at the same time small pieces

of land."[17] Other passages might be quoted, but these two will

suffice. Weaving was not exactly a by-employment of farm labourers, but

many weavers made agriculture a by-employment to some extent, (a) by

working small parcels of land, which varied from the size of allotments

to farms of a very few acres, and (b) by lending aid in gathering in the

harvest when their other work enabled them to do so. The association of

manufacturing and weaving survived beyond the first quarter of the 19th

century. Of the weavers in many districts and "more especially in

Lancashire" we read in the report of the committee on emigration, "it

appears that persons of this description for many years past, have been

occupiers of small farms of a few acres, which they have held at high

rents, and combining the business of the hand-loom weaver with that of a

working farmer have assisted to raise the rent of their land from the

profits of their loom."[18] One of the first lines of specialism to

appear was the severing of the connexion described above, and the

concentration of the weavers in hamlets and towns. Finer fabrics and

more complicated fabrics were introduced, and the weaver soon learnt

that such rough work as farming unfitted his hands for the delicate

tasks required of them. Again, really to prosper a weaver found it

necessary to perfect himself by close application. The days of the rough

fabrics that anybody could make with moderate success were closing in.

As a consequence the dispersion of the weavers becomes less and less.

They no longer wanted allotments or farms; and their looms having become

more complicated, the mechanic proved himself a convenient neighbour.

Finding spinners too was an easier task in the hamlet or town than in

the remote country parts. But there is no reason to suppose that

agriculture and the processes of the domestic cotton manufacturer had

ever been universally twin callings. There never was a time, probably,

when weavers who did nothing but weave were not a significant

proportion, if not the major part, of the class of weavers. All again

were not independent and all were not employees. Some were simply

journeymen in small domestic workshops; others were engaged by fustian

masters or Manchester merchants and paid by the piece for what they made

out of material supplied them; others again bought their warps and

cotton and sold to the merchants their fabrics, which were their own

property. The last class was swept away soon after the industry became

large, when by the organization of men of capital consumers and

producers were more and more kept in touch. In early days most weavers

owned their looms, the great part of which they had frequently

constructed themselves: later, however, a large number hired looms, and

it was as usual in certain quarters for lodgings to be let with a loom

as it is to-day for them to be provided with a piano. When it became

customary for weavers to undertake a variety of work, the masters

usually provided reeds (which had to vary in fineness with the fineness

of the warp), healds, and other changeable parts, and sometimes they

employed the gaiters to fit the new work in the looms.

Until the success of the water-frame, cotton could not be spun

economically of sufficient strength and fineness for warps, and the

warps were therefore invariably made of either linen or wool. Some were

manufactured locally, others were imported from Germany, Ireland and

Scotland. The weaver prepared them for his loom by the system of

peg-warping,[19] but after the introduction of the warping-mill he

received them as a rule all ready for insertion into the loom from the

Manchester merchant or local fustian master.

"It did not pay the individual weaver to keep a warping-mill for

occasional use only, and frequently the contracted space of his

workroom precluded even the possibility of his doing so. The invention

of the warping-mill necessitated specialism in warping, and it was

essential that warping should be done to order, since at that time,

the state of the industrial world being what it was, no person could

ordinarily have been found to adventure capital in producing warps

ready made in anticipation of demand for the great variety of fabrics

which was even then produced. Moreover, had the weaver himself placed

the orders for his warps, any occasional delay in the execution of his

commissions might have stopped his work entirely until the warps were

ready; for warps cannot be delivered partially, like weft, in

quantities sufficient for each day's work. To ensure continuous

working in the industry, therefore, it was almost inevitable that the

merchant should himself prepare the warps for such fabrics as he

required, or possibly have them prepared. To the system of the

merchant delegating the preparation of warps there was less objection

than to the system of the weaver doing so, since the merchant, dealing

in large quantities, was more likely to get pressing orders completed

to time. Further, the merchant knew first what kind of warps would be

needed. The first solution, however, that of the merchant undertaking

the warping himself, was the surer, and there was no doubt as to its

being the one destined for selection in a period when a tendency to

centralize organization, responsibility and all that could be easily

centralized, was steadily gaining in strength."[20]

Guest says the system by which the weaver was supplied with warps and

other material was substituted for the purchase of warps and cotton-wool

by the weaver about 1740. No doubt the change was very gradual,

especially as Aikin mentions the use of warping-mills in the 17th

century. The weaver as a rule received his weft material in the form of

cotton-wool and was required to arrange himself for its cleaning and

spinning. According to Aikin,[21] dealers tried the experiment of giving

out weft instead of cotton-wool, but "the custom grew into disuse as

there was no detecting the knavery of the spinners till a piece came in

woven." As it was impossible to unwrap the yarn and test it throughout

its length, defects were hidden until it came to be used, and the

complaints of weavers were not conclusive as to the inferiority of the

yarn, since their own bad workmanship might have had something to do

with its having proved unsatisfactory. It was therefore found best to

saddle the weaver with full responsibility for both the spinning and

weaving. Women and children cleaned, carded and spun the cotton-wool in

their homes. The cotton had to be more thoroughly cleaned after its

arrival in this country. The ordinary process of cleaning was known as

"willowing," because the cotton was beaten with willow switches after it

had been laid out on a tight hammock of cords. The cotton used for fine

spinning was also carefully washed; and even when it was not washed it

was soaked with water and partially dried so that the fibres might be

made to cling together.[22] Most of the weaving was done by men, and

until the invention of the fly-shuttle they cast the shuttle from hand

to hand in the manner of their remotest ancestors. For the making of the

broader fabrics two weavers were required when the width was greater

than the easy stretch of a man's arms. Sometimes cloths were woven wide

and then split into two or more: hence the term "splits." This became a

common practice when the hand-loom workers were groaning under the

pressure of competition from the power-loom.

The invention of machinery.

We now reach the era of the great inventions. In order to ensure

clearness it will be desirable to consider separately the branches of

spinning and weaving: to pass from the one to the other, and follow the

chronological order, might cause confusion. First emphasis must be laid

upon the point that it was not mechanical change alone which constituted

the industrial revolution. No doubt small hand-looms factories would have

become the rule, and more and more control over production would have

devolved upon the factory master, and the work to be done would have been

increasingly assigned by merchants, had the steam-engine remained but the

dream of Watt, and semi-automatic machinery not been invented. The spirit

of the times was centralizing management before any mechanical changes of

a revolutionizing character had been devised. Loom-shops, in which

several journeymen were employed, were not uncommon: thus "in the latter

part of the last (18th) and the beginning of the present (19th) century,"

says Butterworth, describing the state of affairs in Oldham and the

neighbourhood, "a large number of weavers ... possessed spacious

loom-shops, where they not only employed many journeymen weavers, but a

considerable proportion of apprentice children." It is true that both the

fly-shuttle and drop-box had been invented by that time, but the loom was

still worked by human power. Specialism, however, was on the increase,

the capitalist was assuming more control, and the operative was being

transformed more and more into the mere executive agent. Further, as

creative of enterprise, an atmosphere of freedom and a general economic

restlessness, consequent upon the reaction against mercantilism, were

noticeable. Great changes, no doubt, would soon have swept over

Lancashire had a new source of power and big factories not been rendered

essential by inventions in spinning.

Spinning and preparatory machinery.

The chief inventors were Lewis Paul and John Wyatt, James Hargreaves and

Samuel Crompton. The two first originated the principle of spinning by

rollers. Their patent was taken out in 1738, but no good came of it

immediately, though many trials were made and moderately large sums of

money were lost. Ultimately Richard Arkwright brought forward the same

plan improved:[23] his first patent was dated 1769. Over the real

authorship of the fundamental idea there has been much controversy, and

it has not been absolutely proved that the second inventor, whether

Thomas Highs, Arkwright or John Kay (a clockmaker of Warrington who

assisted Arkwright to construct his machine and is said by some to have

told him of an invention by Highs), did not hit upon the device afresh

in ignorance of the work already done. Even as between Paul and Wyatt it

is not easy to award due measure of praise. Probably the invention, as a

working machine, resulted from real collaboration, each having an

appreciable share in it. Robert Cole, in his paper to the British

Association in 1858 (reprinted as an appendix to the 1st ed. of French's

_Life of Crompton_), championed the claims of Paul, but Mantoux, in his

_La Revolution industrielle au XVIII^e siecle_, after studying the

Wyatt MSS., inclines to attribute to Wyatt a far more important

position, though he dissents from the view of Baines, who ascribes

little or nothing to Paul.

Arkwright's prospects of financial success were much greater than those

of his predecessors, because, first, there was more need in his time of

mechanical aids, and secondly, he was highly talented as a business man.

In 1775 he followed up his patent of 1769 with another relating to

machinery for carding, drawing and roving. The latter patent was widely

infringed, and Arkwright was compelled to institute nine actions in 1781

to defend his rights. An association of Lancashire spinners was formed

to defend them, and by the one that came to trial the patent was set

aside on the ground of obscurity in the specifications. Arkwright again

attempted to recover his patent rights in 1785, after the first patent

had been in abeyance for two years. Before making this further trial of

the courts he had thought of proceeding by petition to parliament, and

had actually drawn up his "case," which he was ultimately dissuaded from

presenting. In it he prayed not only that the decision of 1781 should be

set aside, but that both patents should be continued to him for the

unexpired period of the second patent, i.e. until 1789. In his "case"

(i.e. the petition mentioned above) Arkwright stated that he had sold to

numbers of adventurers residing in the different counties of Derby,

Leicester, Nottingham, Worcester, Stafford, York, Hertford and

Lancaster, many of his patent machines, and continued: "Upon a moderate

computation, the money expended in consequence of such grants (before

1782) amounted to at least L60,000. Mr Arkwright and his partners also

expended in large buildings in Derbyshire and elsewhere upwards of

L30,000, and Mr Arkwright also erected a very large and extensive

building in Manchester at the expense of upwards of L4000. Thus a

business had been formed which already (he calculated) employed upwards

of five thousand persons, and a capital on the whole of not less than

L200,000."[24] It is impossible to discover exactly the rights of the

matter. Certainly Arkwright had been intentionally obscure in his

specifications, as he admitted, and for his defence, namely that it was

to preserve the secret for his countrymen, there was only his word. He

may have hoped to keep the secret for himself; and as to the originality

of both inventions there were grave doubts. But Arkwright has received

little sympathy, because his claims were regarded as grasping in view of

the large fortune which he had already won. He began work with his first

partners at Nottingham (when power was derived from horses) and started

at Cromford in 1771 (where the force of water was used). Soon he was

involved in numerous undertakings, and he remained active till his death

in 1792. He had met throughout with a good deal of opposition, which

possibly to a man of his temperament was stimulating. Even in the matter

of getting protective legislation reframed to give scope to the

application of the water-frame, a powerful section of Lancashire

employers worked against him. This protective legislation must here be

shortly reviewed.

In 1700 an act had been passed (11 & 12 William III. c. 10) prohibiting

the importation of the printed calicoes of India, Persia and China. In

1721 the act 7 George I. c. 7 prohibited the use of any "printed,

painted, stained or dyed calico," excepting only calicoes dyed all blue

and muslins, neckcloths and fustians. This act was modified by the act 9

George II. c. 4 (allowing British calicoes with linen warps). Thus the

matter stood as regards prints when Arkwright had demonstrated that

stout cotton warps could be spun in England, and at the same time the

officers of excise insisted upon exacting a tax of 6d. from the plain

all-cottons instead of the 3d. paid by the cotton-linens, on the ground

that the former were calicoes. Arkwright's plea, however, was admitted,

and by the act 14 George II. c. 72 the still operative part of the act

of 1721 was set aside, and the manufacture, use, and wear of cottons

printed and stained, &c., was permitted subject to the payment of a duty

of 3d. per sq. yd. (the same as the excise on cotton-linens) provided

they were stamped "British manufactory." The duty was varied from time

to time until its repeal in 1832.

Some more powerful force than that of man or horse was soon needed to

work the heavy water-frames. Hence Arkwright placed his second mill on a

water-course, fitting it with a water-wheel, and until the steam-engine

became economical most of the new twist mills were built on

water-courses. On rare occasions the old fire-engines seem to have been

tried.

The following passage quoted from a note in Barnes's _History_

illustrates the pressing need of the early mills: "On the river

Irwell, from the first mill near Bacup, to Prestolee, near Bolton,

there is about 900 ft. of fall available from mills, 800 of which is

occupied. On this river and its branches it is computed that there are

no less than three hundred mills. A project is in course of execution

to increase the water-power of the district, already so great and so

much concentrated, and to equalize the force of the stream by forming

eighteen reservoirs on the hills, to be filled in times of flood, and

to yield their supplies in the drought of summer. These reservoirs,

according to the plan, would cover 270 acres of ground, and contain

241,300,000 cub. ft. of water, which would give a power equal to 6600

horses. The cost is estimated at L59,000. One reservoir has been

completed, another is in course of formation, and it is probable that

the whole design will be carried into effect."[25]

As early as 1788 there were 143 water-mills in the cotton industry of

the United Kingdom, which were distributed as follows among the counties

which had more than one.[26]

Lancashire 41 Flintshire 3

Derbyshire 22 Berkshire 2

Nottinghamshire 17 Lanarkshire 4

Yorkshire 11 Renfrewshire 4

Cheshire 8 Perthshire 3

Staffordshire 7 Midlothian 2

Westmorland 5 Isle of Man 1

The need of water to drive Arkwright's machinery, and its value for

working other machinery, caused a strong decentralizing tendency to show

itself in the cotton industry at this time, but more particularly in the

twist-spinning branch. Ultimately the steam-engine (first used in the

cotton industry in 1785) drew all branches of the industry into the

towns, where the advantages of their juxtaposition--i.e. the external

economies of centralization--could be enjoyed. Out of the crowding of

the mills in one locality sprang the business specialism which has

continued up to the present day. Here it will not be out of place to

notice the appearance of the new power, electricity, in the cotton

industry, the extension of which may involve striking economic changes.

The first electric-driven spinning-mill in Lancashire, that of the

"Acme" Spinning Company at Pendlebury, the work of which is confined to

the ring-frame, was opened in 1905. Power is obtained from the stations

of the Lancashire Power Company at Outwood near Radcliffe, some 5 m.

distant.

The chief principle of the water-frame was the drawing out of the yarn to

the required degree of tenuity by sets of gripping rollers revolving at

different speeds. This principle is still applied universally. Twist was

given by a "flyer" revolving round the bobbin upon which the yarn was

being wound; the spinning so effected was known as throstle-spinning. The

plan is still common in the subsidiary processes of the cotton industry,

but for spinning itself the ring-frame, which appears to have been

invented simultaneously in England and the United States (the first

American patent is dated 1828), is rapidly supplanting the

throstle-frame,[27] though the "ooziness" of mule yarn has not yet been

successfully imitated by ring-frame yarn. The great invention relating to

weft-spinning was the jenny, introduced by James Hargreaves probably

about 1764, and first tried in a factory four years later.[28] Hargreaves

unfortunately was unable to maintain his patent, because he had sold

jennies before applying for protection. Crompton's mule, which combined

the principles of the rollers and the jenny, was perfected about 1779.

Both jennies and mules were known as "wheels," because they were worked

in part by the turning of a wheel. As they could be set in motion without

using much power, being light when of moderate size, for a long time

they were worked entirely by hand or partially with the aid of horses or

water. The first jenny- and mule-factories were small for this reason,

and also because skill in the operative was a matter of fundamental

importance,[29] as it was not in twist-spinning on the water-frame. The

size of the typical weft-spinning mill suddenly increased after the scope

for the application of power was enlarged by the use of the self-actor

mule, invented in 1825 by Richard Roberts, of the firm of Sharp, Roberts

& Co., machinists, of Manchester. In 1830 Roberts improved his invention

and brought out the complete self-actor. Self-actors had been put forward

by others besides Roberts--for instance by William Strutt, F.R.S. (son of

Arkwright's partner), before 1790; William Kelly, formerly of Lanark

mills, in 1792; William Eaton of Wiln in Derbyshire; Peter Ewart of

Manchester; de Jongh of Warrington; Buchanan, of Catrine works, Scotland;

Knowles of Manchester; and Dr Brewster of America[30]--but none had

succeeded. And Roberts's machines did not immediately win popularity. For

a long time the winding done by them was defective, and they suffered

from other imperfections. Broadly speaking, until the American Civil War

the number of hand-mules in use remained high. It was for the fine

"counts" in particular that many employers preferred them.[31] About the

end of the 'sixties, however, and in the early 'seventies, great

improvements were effected in machinery, partly under the stimulus of a

desire to elevate its fitness for dealing with short-staple cotton, and

it became evident that hand-mules were doomed. Here we may suitably refer

to the scutching machine for opening and cleaning cotton, invented by Mr

Snodgrass of Glasgow in 1797, and introduced by Kennedy[32] to Manchester

in 1808 or 1809; the cylinder carder invented by Lewis Paul and improved

by Arkwright; and the lap-machine first constructed by Arkwright's son.

Weaving machinery.

We now transfer our attention to that accumulation of improvements in

manufacturing (as weaving is technically termed) which, taken in

conjunction with the inventions already described, presaged the large

factory system which covers Lancashire to-day. Gradually, for many

years, the loom had been gathering complexities, though no fundamental

alteration was introduced into its structure until 1738, when John Kay

of Bury excited the wrath of his fellow-weavers by designing and

employing the device of the fly-shuttle. For some unfathomable

reason--for the opposition of the weavers hardly explains it, though

they expressed their views forcibly and acted upon them violently--this

invention was not much applied in the cotton industry until about a

quarter of a century after its appearance. The plan was merely to

substitute for human hands hammers at the ends of a lengthened lathe

along which the shuttle ran, the hammers being set in motion by the

jerking of a stick (the picking peg) to which they were attached by

strings. The output of a weaver was enormously increased in consequence.

In 1760 John Kay's son Robert added the drop-box, by the use of which

many different kinds of weft could be worked into the same fabric

without difficulty. It was in fact a partitioned lift, any partition of

which could be brought to a level with the lathe and made for the time

continuous with it. The drop-box usefully supplemented the "draw-boy,"

or "draught-boy," which provided for the raising of warps in groups, and

thereby enabled figured goods to be produced. The "draw-boy" had been

well known in the industry for a long time; in 1687 a Joseph Mason

patented an invention for avoiding the expense of an assistant to work

it,[33] but there is no evidence to show that his invention was of

practical value. Looms with "draw-boys" affixed, which could sometimes

be worked by the weavers themselves, later became common under the name

of harness-looms, which have since been supplanted by Jacquard looms,

wherein the pattern is picked out mechanically.

The principle of the fly-shuttle was a first step towards the complete

mechanizing of the action required for working a loom. The second step

was the power-loom, the initial effort to design which was created by

the tardiness of weaving as contrasted with the rapidity of spinning by

power. After the general adoption of the jenny, supplies of yarn outran

the productive powers of the agencies that existed for converting them

into fabrics, and as a consequence, it would seem, some yarn was

directed into exports which might have been utilized for the manufacture

of cloth for export had the loom been more productive. The agitation for

the export tax on yarn at the end of the 18th, and in the first years of

the 19th century, is therefore comprehensible, but there was no

foundation for some of the allegations by which it was supported. For a

large proportion of the exported yarn, fabrics could not have been

substituted, since the former was required to feed the hand-looms in

continental homes and domestic workshops, against much of the product of

which there was no chance of competing. The hand-loom was securely

linked to the home of the peasant, and though he would buy yarn to feed

his loom he would not buy cloth and break it up.[34]

Cartwright's loom was not the first design adapted for weaving by power.

A highly rudimentary and perfectly futile self-actor weaving machine,

which would have been adapted for power-working had it been capable of

working at all, had been invented by a M. de Gennes: a description of

it, extracted from the _Journal de scavans_, appeared in the

_Philosophical Transactions_ for July and August 1678, and again in the

_Gentleman's Magazine_ in 1751 (vol. xxi. pp. 391-392). It consisted of

mechanical hands, as it were, that shot in and out of the warp and

exchanged the shuttle.[35] Another idea, which however proved fruitful,

was that of grinding the shuttle through the warps by the agency of

cog-wheels working at each end upon teeth affixed to the upper side of

the shuttle. Though shuttles could not in this fashion be set in rapid

movement, the machine turned out to be economical for the production of

ribbons and tapes, because many pieces could be woven by it at once.

These contrivances were known as swivel-looms, and in 1724 Stukeley in

his _Itinerarium curiosum_ wrote that the people of Manchester have

"looms that work twenty-four laces at a time, which was stolen from the

Dutch." Ogden says also that they were set up in imitation of Dutch

machines by Dutch mechanics invited over for the purpose. Another

interesting passage relating to the swivel-looms will be found in the

rules of the Manchester small-ware weavers dated 1756, where the

complaint is made that the masters have acquired by the employment of

"engine or Dutch looms such large and opulent fortunes as hath enabled

them to vie with some of the best gentlemen of the country," and it is

alleged that these machines, which wove twelve or fourteen pieces at

once, "were in use in Manchester thirty years ago."[36] One

power-factory at least was devoted to them as early as 1760, namely that

of a Mr Gartside at Manchester, where water-power was applied, but the

enterprise failed.[37] Cartwright's invention was probably perfected in

its first form about 1787, but many corrections, improvements and

additions had to be effected before it became an unqualified success.

Cartwright's original idea was elaborated by numerous followers, and

supplementary ideas were needed to make the system complete. Of the

latter the most important were those due to William Radcliffe, and an

ingenious mechanic who worked with him, Thomas Johnson, which were

patented in 1803 and 1804. They related to the dressing of the warp

before it was placed in the loom, and for the mechanical taking up of

the cloth and drawing forward of the warp, so that the loom had not to

be stopped for the cloth to be moved on and the warp brought within play

of the shuttle to be sized. Looms fitted with the latter of these

devices were known as "dandy" looms. The looms that followed need not be

described here, nor need we concern ourselves with the degree in which

some were imitations of others. It is of interest to note, however, in

view of recent developments, that one of Cartwright's patents included a

warp-stop motion, though it was never tried practically so far as the

writer is aware. Looms with warp-stop motions are now common in the

United States, as are also automatic looms, but both are still the

exception in Lancashire for reasons that will be sketched later.

Power-looms won their way only very gradually. Cartwright and others

lost fortunes in trying to make them pay, but the former was compensated

by a grant of L10,000 from government. In 1813 there were 2400 only in

the whole of the United Kingdom; in 1820 there were 14,000, beside some

240,000 hand-looms; in 1829, 55,500; in 1833, 100,000; and in 1870,

440,700.[38] To-day there are about 700,000 in the cotton industry. The

beginning, and the final consequences, of the competitive pressure of

the power-looms may be read in the reports of official inquiries and in

Rowbotham's diary.[39] It was upon the fine work that the hand-loom

weavers retained their last hold. In 1829 John Kennedy wrote in his

paper to the Manchester Literary and Philosophical Society on "The Rise

and Progress of the Cotton Trade," "It is found ... that one person

cannot attend upon more than two power-looms, and it is still

problematical [even in 1829, observe] whether the saving of labour

counterbalances the expense of power and machinery and the disadvantage

of being obliged to keep an establishment of power-looms constantly at

work." It was not easy to obtain a sufficiency of good hands for the

power-looms, because the operatives, who had acquired their habits under

the domestic system, hated factory life. This, in conjunction with the

ease with which the art of coarse weaving could be acquired and the

cheapness of rough looms, helps to explain the wretched straits into

which the hand-loom weavers were driven.

[Sidenote: Growth.]

Improvements in machinery, which ultimately affected every process from

cleaning the cotton to finishing the fabric, and the application of

water and steam-power, so lowered the cost of production as to render

Lancashire the cotton factory of the world. Figures are quoted in the

table to show the rate of growth in different periods of England's

imports and exports as regards the raw material and products of this

industry. It is important to remember when reading the last 6 columns

that the value of money was the same in 1831-1835, 1851-1855 and

1876-1880: the sums of Sauerbeck's index numbers for these periods were

454, 451 and 444 respectively. In the last two periods there were

considerable depressions in prices. If prices had remained constant, in

the periods 1891-1895 and 1896-1900 the figures of exports would have

been L90 millions and L91 millions respectively. The growth in trade has

been partly occasioned by the enormous increase in the volume of cotton

goods consumed all over the world, which in turn has been due to (1) the

growth of population, (2) the increase in productive efficiency and

well-being, and (3) the substitution of cotton fabrics for woollen and

linen fabrics. The rate of growth between the periods 1771-1781 and

1781-1791 (which is not shown in the above table) was particularly

remarkable, and reached as high a figure (when measured by importations

of weight of cotton) as 320%.

+---------+-------------+-------------+-----------------------------+---------------------------+

| | | | Exports of Cotton Yarns |Imports of Cotton Yarns and|

| | | |and Manufactures, Million L. | Manufactures, Million L |

| | Imports of | Raw Cotton | | |

| Year. | Raw Cotton, |re-exported, +------+-------------+--------+------+-------------+------+

| | Million lb. | Million lb. | | | | |Manufactures.| |

| | | |Yarns.|Manufactures.| Total. |Yarns.| (excluding |Total.|

| | | | | | | | Lace.) | |

+---------+-------------+-------------+------+-------------+--------+------+-------------+------+

|1700-1705| 1.17 | .. | .. | .. | .. | .. | .. | .. |

|1771-1775| 4.76 | .. | .. | .. | .. | .. | .. | .. |

|1785-1789| .. | .. | .. | .. | 1.07* | .. | .. | .. |

|1791-1795| 26.00 | .. | .. | .. | 2.09* | .. | .. | .. |

|1816-1820| 139.00 | 10.00 | 2.5 | 13.8 | 16.30 | .. | .. | .. |

|1831-1835| 313.00 | 23.00 | 4.8 | 14.2 | 19.00 | .. | .. | .. |

|1851-1855| 872.00 | 124.00 | 6.8 | 24.9 | 31.70 | .. | .. | .. |

|1876-1880| 1456.00 | 180.00 | 12.4 | 56.1 | 68.30 | .. | 2.29 | 2.29 |

|1891-1895| 1746.00 | 217.00 | 9.7 | 56.6 | 66.30 | .42 | 2.78 | 3.20 |

|1896-1900| 1798.00 | 223.00 | 8.9 | 58.2 | 67.10 | .26 | 4.27 | 4.53 |

|1901-1905| 1920.00 | 265.00 | 8.4 | 70.7 | 79.10 | .22 | 5.10 | 5.32 |

+---------+-------------+-------------+------+-------------+--------+------+-------------+------+

* Official values.

Differentiation and Integration.

Nothing is more interesting in the cotton industry than the processes of

differentiation and integration that have taken place from time to time.

Weaving and spinning had been to a large extent united in the industry

in its earliest form, in that both were frequently conducted beneath the

same roof. With mechanical improvements in spinning, that branch of the

industry became a separate business, and a substantial section of it was

brought under the factory regime. Weaving continued to be performed in

cottages or in hand-loom sheds where no spinning at all was attempted.

Cartwright's invention carried weaving back to spinning, because both

operations then needed power, and the trouble of marketing yarn was

largely spared by the reunion. Mr W. R. Grey stated in 1833 to the

committee of the House of Commons on manufactures, commerce and

shipping, that he knew of no single person then building a spinning mill

who was not attaching to it a power-loom factory. Some years later the

weaving-shed split away from spinning, partly no doubt because of the

economies of industrial specialism, partly because of commercial

developments, to be described later, which rendered dissociation less

hazardous than it had been, and partly because, in consequence of these

developments, much manufacturing (as weaving is termed) was constituted

a business strikingly dissimilar from spinning. The manufacturer runs

more risks in laying by stocks than the spinner, because of the greater

variety of his product and the more frequent changes that it undergoes.

The former, therefore, must devote more time than the latter to keeping

his order book and the productive power of his shed in close

correspondence. The minute care of this kind that must be exercised in

some classes of businesses explains why the small manufacturer still

holds his own while the small spinner has been crushed out. It also

explains to some extent the prevalence of joint-stock companies in

spinning, and their comparative rarity in manufacturing. Here we should

notice, perhaps, that the only combination of importance in the cotton

industry proper (apart from calico-printing, bleaching, &c., and the

manufacture of sewing-cotton) is the Fine Cotton Spinners and Doublers

Association, founded in 1898, which is practically coextensive with fine

spinning and doubling.

Localization of branches of the industry.

The specialism of the two main branches of the industry has been

followed by the specialism of sub-branches and by the localization of

specialized parts. Of the localization of certain sections of the cotton

industry the late Mr Elijah Helm, who spoke with the authority of great

local knowledge, has written as follows:--

"Spinning is largely concentrated in south Lancashire and in the

adjoining borderland of north Cheshire. But even within this area

there is further allocation. The finer and the very finest yarns are

spun in the neighbourhood of Bolton, and in or near Manchester, much

of this being used for the manufacture of sewing-thread; whilst other

descriptions, employed almost entirely for weaving, are produced in

Oldham and other towns. The weaving branches of the industry are

chiefly conducted in the northern half of Lancashire--most of it in

very large boroughs, as Blackburn, Burnley and Preston. Here, again,

there is a differentiation. Preston and Chorley produce the finer and

lighter fabrics; Blackburn, Darwen and Accrington, shirtings, dhooties

and other goods extensively shipped to India; whilst Nelson and Colne

make cloths woven from dyed yarn, and Bolton is distinguished for fine

quiltings and fancy cotton dress goods. These demarcations are not

absolutely observed, but they are sufficiently clear to give to each

town in the area covered by the cotton industry a distinctive place in

its general organization."[40]

The present local distribution of the cotton industry, as far as it is

displayed statistically, is revealed in the table beneath, based upon

the figures of spindles and looms given by Worrall and those of

operatives in the census returns of 1901.

_Distribution of Cotton Operatives in Lancashire and the Vicinity

according to the Census Returns of 1901, together with the Number

of Spindles and Looms according to Worrall._

+------------------------+-------------+--------------+-------------+

| | No. of | No. | No. of |

| | Operatives. | Spindles (in | Looms. |

| | | Thousands). | |

+------------------------+-------------+--------------+-------------+

| Blackburn | 41,400 | 1,325 | 75,300 |

| Bolton | 29,800 | 5,035 | 20,100 |

| Oldham | 29,500 | 11,603 | 18,500 |

| Burnley | 27,900 | 687 | 79,300 |

| Manchester and Salford | 27,200 | 2,666 | 24,200* |

| Preston | 25,000 | 2,036 | 57,900 |

| Rochdale | 14,800 | 2,168 | 25,100 |

| Darwen | 12,500 | 336 | 28,700 |

| Nelson | 12,400 | 23 | 39,000 |

| Glossop** | | 968 | 15,400 |

| Bury | 10,700 | 818 | 22,200 |

| Stockport | 9,700 | 1,803 | 8,700 |

| Ashton-under-Lyne | 8,600 | 1,839 | 11,500 |

| Accrington | 8,300 | 417 | 36,400 |

| Colne | 7,300 | 140*** | 20,500 |

| Heywood | 7,300 | 869 | 6,400 |

| Stalybridge | 7,100 | 1,106 | 7,100 |

| Todmorden | 6,900 | 261 | 15,800 |

| Rawtenstall | 6,600 | 356 | 8,800 |

| Hyde | 6,500 | 553 | 7,900 |

| Chadderton | 6,400 | .. | .. |

| Haslingden | 6,100 | 148 | 12,000 |

| Bacup | 5,900 | 315 | 9,300 |

| Chorley | 5,900 | 547 | 17,900 |

| Farnworth, near Bolton | 5,700 | 738 | 10,600 |

| Leigh | 5,000 | 1,667 | 5,900 |

| Great Harwood | 4,900 | 72 | 12,400 |

| Middleton | 4,900 | 511 | 2,500 |

| Radcliffe | 4,800 | 157 | 8,900 |

+------------------------+-------------+--------------+-------------+

* Manchester only.

** The number of operatives in places in Derbyshire is not separately

specified.

*** Includes Foulridge with Colne.

Local markets have steadily lost in importance, partly owing to railway

development, and it is now almost entirely in Manchester, on the

Exchange, that dealing in yarns and fabrics takes place, and

arrangements are made for export. The old Manchester Exchange, built in

1729, was taken down in 1792. A new Exchange, reared on a contiguous

site, was opened in 1809, the first stone having been laid in 1806. The

present building was erected in 1869. The great bulk of the exports of

cotton goods proceeds from Liverpool, though London used to be the

leading port, and Liverpool is still the chief English market for raw

cotton, though now from one-sixth to one-eighth of English cotton

supplies come up the Manchester Ship Canal.

Modern organization.

To understand the present organization of the cotton industry the reader

must begin by mentally separating the commercial from the industrial

functions. By the industrial functions are meant the arrangements of

factors in production--choosing the most suitable machinery and hands,

combining them in the most economical system, adapting the material used

to this system, and keeping its working at the highest attainable level.

The commercial functions consist in business which is not industrial.

Analysis will show that there are, broadly speaking, two classes of

commercial functions, namely (1) arranging for purchases and sales, and

(2) the bearing of risks. The character of the former is apparent; it

consists, as regards yarn, in discovering for each manufacturer which

spinner makes the yarn which is best adapted to his requirements at the

lowest cost, and in finding the most suitable customers for spinners.

Risk-bearing is a commercial function of another kind. Every business

that involves anticipation involves commercial risks. Thus the spinner

who sells "forward" yarn, trusting that the price of cotton will not

rise, is taking commercial risks, and so is the spinner who produces for

stock, trusting that the class of yarn that he is making will continue

in demand. These two instances will suffice to indicate what is meant by

the carrying of commercial risks. To make the rest of our argument clear

it will be well to write down formulae. Let A and B represent

respectively the industrial operations of spinning and manufacturing.

Let a and [alpha] represent respectively the commercial operations

implied by the separate existence of A, that is, the buying of cotton

and the selling of yarn; and let b and [Greek: beta] stand for the

commercial operations associated with manufacturing, that is, the buying

of yarn on the one hand, and the finding of customers and arranging for

their purchases on the other hand. Then, A and B being distinct

businesses, it is obvious that a range of schemes is possible of which

the extremes may be roughly represented as follows:--

1. (aA[alpha]), (bB[beta])

2. (a), (A), ([alpha]b), (B), ([beta]),

where the brackets signify independent businesses. In case 1 each

spinning business would be engaged with three problems, namely, (i.)

buying material at the most favourable time, (ii.) producing at the

lowest cost, and (iii.) finding buyers and selling at the highest price,

including the arranging for the performance of the most remunerative

work. But in case 2 the spinner would confine his attention to purely

industrial matters, while the problem of finding cotton and arranging

for the bearing of the risks as to future prices would rest with other

persons, and the business of bringing spinner and manufacturer together

and taking such risks as may be involved in ordering or disposing of

yarn would be the function of yet others. In case 2 the commercial

functions may be said to have differentiated completely from the main

body of the industry. We need hardly give illustrations of the

intermediate arrangements that formally lie between cases 1 and 2. A may

retain commercial risks but find customers through intermediaries; in

such an event there would be only partial differentiation of the

commercial functions. The reader must be reminded also that for the sake

of simplicity in the formulae we have overlooked different classes of A

and of B, omitted bleaching, dyeing, printing and finishing, and drawn

no distinction between the various classes of commercial work covered by

one letter, for instance, selling in the home market and selling abroad.

It may help the reader to appreciate the organic growth of the cotton

industry if we now run over the main lines of its evolution. Originally

the industrial units were held together in one homogeneous commercial

setting. The Manchester merchants bought cotton and warps, put them out

to the weavers, and arranged for the finishing of the cloth and then for

its sale, so far as they had not been acting on orders already received.

There were variations of this system--for instance, in early years

weavers sometimes bought their own yarns and cotton and sold their

cloth--but just before the industrial revolution the arrangement

sketched above was the most usual. Adverting to our formula, the

Manchester merchants, we observe, performed functions a (in conjunction

with importers), b (as regarded warps), and [beta]. Weft the weaver had

to get spun by his family or outsiders. So, broadly speaking, there was

one single commercial setting. After the appearance of the factory, the

commercial work as between the water-twist mills, the mule-spinning

businesses and the manufacturers, so far as the businesses were

distinct, appears to have been done by the several producing firms

concerned. It was not at once that ([alpha]b) began to differentiate,

[beta] was already a separate business in the hands of Manchester

merchants and the foreign houses who had established themselves in

Manchester to direct the export trade. At the present time an advanced

stage of commercial specialism has been reached. From the risks

connected with the buying of cotton the spinner may if he please escape

entirely.[41] Selling work is now done usually through intermediaries,

but there is no one uniform rule as to the carrying of the commercial

risks involved. This appears to be now to some extent a matter of

arrangement between the persons concerned, but ultimately no doubt the

risks will have to be borne by those most qualified by experience to

bear them, namely, the commercial specialists. In no other trade in

England, and in no other cotton industry abroad, has commercial

specialism been carried so far as in the cotton trade of Lancashire. It

is partly in consequence of the difference in this respect between the

cotton industry in Lancashire and abroad that the separation of spinning

from weaving is far more common in England than elsewhere. Elsewhere

producers are deterred from specializing processes further in distinct

businesses by the fear of the worries of buying and selling as between

them.

The explanation of differences in respect of the degree of commercial

specialism in different places and industries can be formulated only

very generally. Time is required for the differentiation and

localization to take place. The English cotton trade had not advanced

very far in the "'thirties," if we are to judge from the evidence given

to commissions and parliamentary committees. The general conditions

under which commercial specialism evolves may be taken to be a

moderately limited range of products which do not present many

varieties, and the qualities of which can be judged generally on

inspection. In such circumstances private markets need not be built up,

as they must be, for instance, for a new brand of soap which claims some

subtle superiority to all others. Soaps under present conditions must be

marketed by their producers. Broadly stated, if there be little

competition as to substitutes, though there may be much as to price in

relation to quality, commercial functions may specialize. On the whole

this is the case in the cotton industry; in so far as it is not and

firms produce specialities, they undertake much of the marketing work

themselves.

The advantages of commercial specialism are numerous. Firstly it allows

of differentiation of industrial processes, and this, of necessity, is

accompanied by increasing returns. When weaving dissociates from

spinning, both the number of looms in each business and the number of

spindles in each business tend to increase; more division of labour is

therefore secured, and lower costs of production are reached, and there

is a further gain because producers concentrate their attention upon a

smaller range of work. Again when producers are freed entirely, or to

some extent, from commercial worries, they can attain a higher level of

efficiency at the industrial task of mill organization, and a more

perfect accommodation of capacity to function will be brought about. If

the business unit is (aA[alpha]), a particular person may retain his

place in the market by reason of his excellence at the work a or

[alpha], though as works organizer (i.e. at the performances of function

A) he may be incompetent. The heads of businesses will succeed according

to their average capacities at the three tasks a, A and [alpha], and

there is no guarantee, therefore, that any one of these tasks will be

performed with the highest attainable efficiency in our present somewhat

immobile economic system. But if the three functions are separated there

is more certainty of a person's success in the performance of each

determining his continued discharge of it. The problems that arise when

specialized markets become very highly developed are dealt with in the

article COTTON: MARKETING AND SUPPLY.

Operatives in various processes.

The distribution of cotton operatives among the chief centres has

already been shown, but their distribution between processes has yet

to be considered, and the proportions of different ages and sexes from

time to time, together with the total. With such statistical material

as is available relating to supplies of labour we may set forth also

the official returns made of the quantity of machinery at work from

time to time. It hardly need be pointed out that the ratio of

machinery to operatives roughly measures the efficiency of labour,

other things being equal.

_Machinery in the United Kingdom (in Thousands)._

+--------+-----------+-----------+--------+

| Years. | Spinning | Doubling | Power- |

| | Spindles. | Spindles. | Looms. |

+--------+-----------+-----------+--------+

| 1874 | 37,516 | 4366 | 463 |

| 1878 | 39,528 | 4679 | 515 |

| 1885 | 40,120 | 4228 | 561 |

| 1890 | 40,512 | 3993 | 616 |

| 1903 | 43,905 | 3952 | 684 |

+--------+-----------+-----------+--------+

_Operatives employed in the Cotton Industry (in Thousands). (From the

Census Returns.*)_ (The figures in italics relate to Married and

Widowed Women.)

+----------------------------------------+--------------------------+-----------------------+-----------------------+

| | 1901. | 1891. | 1881. |

| +-------------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------+-----------+

| | | England | | England | | England |

| | Lancashire | and Wales |Lancashire.| and Wales |Lancashire.| and Wales |

+----------------------------------------+------+------+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+

| | M. | F. | M. | F. | M. | F. | M. | F. | M. | F. | M. | F. |

|Cotton, card and blowing-room processes | 11.4 | 28.7 | 13.8 | 34.0| .. | .. | .. | .. | .. | .. | .. | .. |

| | 10.1 | |12.2 | | | | | | | | | |

|Cotton spinning processes | 49.5 | 19.6 | 64.1 | 28.6| .. | .. | .. | .. | .. | .. | .. | .. |

| | 4.3 | | 6.0 | | | | | | | | | |

|Cotton weaving, warping, &c. | 57.6 |113.5 | 66.1 |130.8| .. | .. | .. | .. | .. | .. | .. | .. |

| | 13.0 | | 15.8 | | | | | | | | | |

|Cotton winding, warping, &c. | 14.8 | 38.6 | 18.3 | 48.9| .. | .. | .. | .. | .. | .. | .. | .. |

| | 38.1 | | 44.4 | | | | | | | | | |

| +------+------+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----------+

| Total |133.3 | 265.9|162.3 |320.7|178.2|281.8|213.2|332.8|150.7|249.8|185.4|302.4|

| +------+------+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+

|Cotton workers in other processes or | 29.0 | 6.7 | 34.5 | 9.4 | .. | .. | .. | .. | .. | .. | .. | .. |

| undefined | 1.8 | | | 2.3 | | | | | | | | |

|Tape, manufacturer dealer | .. | .. | .. | .. | .47| .25| .9 | 1.5| .4 | .24| .7 | 1.2 |

|Thread, manufacturer dealer | .. | .. | .. | .. | .2 | .9 | .6 | 2.1| .1 | .9 | .5 | 1.7 |

|Fustian, manufacturer dealer | .6 | 1.2 | 2.1 | 2.6 | 1.1 | 2.9 | 3.2 | 5.0| 1.7 | 3.5 | 3.0 | 5.2 |

| | .55| | | 1.0 | | | | | | | | |

|Cotton, calico, warehouseman, dealer | .. | .. | .. | .. | .. | .. | .. | .. | 2.5 | .3 | 3.2 | .38|

+----------------------------------------+------+------+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+

* Census classifications have been altered twice in the period covered by this table.

In Scotland there are less than 15,000 cotton operatives distributed

as follows:--

In Thousands.

Card and blowing-room processes .4

Spinning-room processes 2.1

Winding, warping, &c. 2.7

Weaving, warping, &c. 6.8

Workers in other processes or undefined 2.8

----

Total 14.8

_Operatives employed in Cotton Factories in the United Kingdom and

Percentages of each Class. (From Returns of Factory Inspectors.)_

+-----------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+

| | 1835.| 1838.| 1847.| 1850.| 1856.| 1862.| 1867.|

+-----------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+

| Male and Female under | | | | | | | |

| 13, or half-timers. | 13.2 | 45.7 | 5.8 | 4.6 | 6.5 | 8.8 | 10.4 |

| Male, 13 to 18 | 12.5 | 16.6 | 11.8 | 11.2 | 10.3 | 9.1 | 8.6 |

| Male, over 18 | 26.4 | 24.9 | 27.1 | 28.7 | 27.4 | 26.4 | 26.0 |

| Female, over 13 | 47.9 | 53.8 | 55.3 | 55.5 | 55.8 | 55.7 | 55.0 |

+-----------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+

| Total number of | | | | | | | |

| Cotton Operatives |218,000|259,500|316,400|331,000|379,300|451,600|401,100|

+=======================+=======+=======+=======+=======+=======+=======+=======+

| | 1870.| 1874.| 1878.| 1885.| 1890.| 1895.| 1901.|

+-----------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+

| Male and Female under | | | | | | | |

| 13, or half-timers. | 9.6 | 14.0 | 12.8 | 9.9 | 9.1 | 5.8 | 4.1 |

| Male, 13 to 18 | 8.5 | 8.0 | 7.2 | 7.9 | 8.2 | 7.9 | 7.0 |

| Male, over 18 | 26.0 | 24.1 | 25.3 | 26.4 | 26.9 | 27.6 | 27.8 |

| Female, over 13 | 55.9 | 53.9 | 54.7 | 55.8 | 55.8 | 58.7 | 61.1 |

+-----------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+

| Total number of | | | | | | | |

| Cotton Operatives |450,100|479,600|483,000|504,100|528,800|538,900|513,000|

+-----------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+

_Number of Operatives (in Thousands) engaged in Spinning,

Manufacturing and Subsidiary Processes (excluding Lace-making, but

including the Fustian Manufacture). (From Census Returns.)_

+------+------------------------+------------------------+------------------------+

| | Males. | Females. | Males and Females. |

+------+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+

| |Under| |Over | All |Under| |Over | All |Under| |Over | All |

| | 15.|15-20.| 20. |Ages.| 15. |15-20.| 20. |Ages.| 15.|15-20.| 20. |Ages.|

+------+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+

| 1881 | 29 | 39 | 121 | 189 | 40 | 81 | 189 | 310 | 69 | 120 | 310 | 500 |

| 1891 | 36 | 45 | 137 | 218 | 50 | 94 | 197 | 341 | 86 | 139 | 334 | 560 |

| 1901 | 24 | 36 | 139 | 199 | 36 | 92 | 207 | 335 | 60 | 128 | 346 | 535 |

+------+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+

The fact that the branches of work covered by the figures are not

identical explains discrepancies between this and the previous table.

_Number of Operatives engaged in the Cotton Industry (Processes

being distinguished and Ages and Sex). (From Special Returns made by

Factory Inspectors.)_

Encyclopaedia Britannica, 11th Edition, "Cosway, Richard" to "Coucy, Le Châtelain de" Volume 7, Slice 5 · 第 12 / 18 题