AN INTERESTING JOURNEY
Fine weather had followed the April showers, and as was his custom,
Boghos Effendi was making preparations for a visit to his farm at the
foot of Mount Ararat, [9] on the Persian frontier. This time, Archag
was to go with his father, and the little boy was beside himself with
joy. He was to be absent several months, galloping about all day on his
pretty Mustang; and the Highland Farm with its great herds of horses
and flocks of sheep seemed to his imagination an earthly Paradise
indeed. Every morning when he woke up his first question was: "O,
papa, are we going to-morrow?" He talked of nothing but this famous
journey, and dreamed of it at night.
At last the longed-for day arrived. It was still dark when Hanna
badgi went to wake Archag. She gave him a little shake:
"Get up quickly, my son; your father is saddling the horses already."
In the twinkling of an eye the child was on his feet; he ran to the
courtyard to wash himself in cold water, then came back to eat his
breakfast. A bowl of goats' milk, still warm, two pieces of flat bread,
and some cucumbers which Nizam had gathered the evening before, were
waiting for him in the kitchen. He ate heartily. His mother's face was
sad, as she sat watching him, and from time to time she stealthily
wiped away a tear. Her boy was leaving her for the first time, and
her heart sank as she thought of the dangers of the journey. The
Persian frontier was infested by bands of Kurds, living by rapine
and plunder, and as there was no mail service between Van and the
villages of Ararat, she would be without news of her dear ones,
and under a constant strain of anxiety.
The moment for departure had arrived. Two zaptiehs (police-officers)
were to accompany Boghos Effendi; indeed the only safe way to travel
in Asia Minor is with an escort of police; travelers are thus under
the protection of the Government, and the brigands will not venture
to attack them.
"Haidé, Archag, make haste," called his father, "we can't wait for
you any longer."
The women and little Levon came out to bid the travelers a last
good-by. Archag cried as he embraced them, and his mother put around
his neck a medal, blessed by the Catholicos of Echmiadzin, [10]
as a protection against all danger. "May our holy Virgin guard you,
my dearest boy," said she. "Don't forget to ask her that every night."
Mustang, Archag's handsome Tartar stallion, was getting impatient,
so his master leaped lightly on his back. The horses, exhilarated by
the fresh morning air, broke into a gallop; Boghos Effendi and his
son waved their handkerchiefs; one more last look, then the house
disappeared behind a clump of trees.
The sun had just risen, and its first rays were gilding the blue waters
of the lake. After following the shore for two hours, our travelers
began to ascend toward the higher ranges of mountains. Archag
was leaving Van for the first time, and his eyes were charmed by
the beauty of the landscape. At this season the vegetation was
wonderfully luxuriant; the horses now trod on carpets of hyacinths
and wild tulips, or again, they pressed their way between hedges of
yellow eglantine. Great blue-green butterflies chased each other,
flitting from flower to flower. Presently the travelers entered an
immense tract of pine forest, and the horses neighed with content
as they sniffed the good resinous odors. Occasionally, their way was
impeded by a stream, swollen to a torrent by the snows of spring. The
water leaped over huge bowlders, sweeping along in its mad course the
trunks of ancient pines weary of battling against the elements. At
this time of year it was often difficult to find a ford, and when his
horse had bravely gone breast-deep into the stream, Archag, confused
by the deafening noise of the water, would be seized with dizziness,
close his eyes and cling to his Mustang. But what joy to arrive
safe and sound on the other side! He would dry himself in the sun,
and then go on his way. Toward evening, they observed, far away to
the north, an isolated cone of purest white, rising above the dark
mountains which loomed up all around, and glistening in the sunlight.
"Ararat!" cried Boghos Effendi, pointing it out to his companions.
Ararat! What memories the name awakened in Archag's mind! He gazed
with awe at this storied mountain, which was said to have been the
northern boundary of the earthly Paradise, and the resting-place
of Noah's Ark. Presently it vanished in the clouds, and the little
boy had a fancy that now, after having bounded the Garden of Eden,
it was about to become part of the heavenly Paradise.
Soon after this, they arrived at a khan (a sort of inn), and on
entering the courtyard they found the place in a state of great
excitement. The harem of the kaimakan (governor) of Erzeroum had
just arrived, and the ladies, veiled in black from head to foot,
were hurrying out of their carriages, and gliding into the house like
shadows. Eunuchs followed carrying their baggage, and the sight of
these supercilious-looking black men made Archag draw closer to his
father. At the farther end of the courtyard there were merchants
engaged in unloading their camels; they stacked against the wall
great bales of rugs, woven in far-away Kurdistan, which they were
taking to Trebizond. From there the Kurd rugs would go to Europe and
find their places in the homes of rich people in Paris or London.
In front of the house some Gregorian priests, returning from a
pilgrimage to Echmiadzin, were drinking coffee and smoking narguilehs
(water-pipes). They were sitting on the ground around a mangal,
[11] for in Armenia the nights are still very cold in the month of
May. Boghos Effendi approached them to kiss their hands, as a mark
of respect due to hadjis (pilgrims), whereupon the priests received
him in a friendly way, and made room for him by their side.
Night had fallen, a dark night, with no moon. The other travelers
drew near to the pleasant warmth of the mangal. There they all were:
the Armenian pilgrims, the Kurd merchants, the Turkish pashas with
their suite, traveling on official business, an old Persian on his way
to Angora, and the camel-drivers, with their weather-stained faces,
chewing balls of resin, without pause. Pretty soon, an Arab, a native
of Bagdad, began to tell a story worthy of a place in "The Arabian
Nights." Except for his voice there were no sounds but the bubbling
of the narguilehs or the distant cry of a hyena lying in wait for
prey. Our friend Archag, sitting beside his father, with his pretty
red slippers placed in front of him, heard the monotonous drone of the
story-teller as if in a dream. The gurgling of a camel roused him from
his drowsiness for an instant, but he soon relapsed into the blessed
sleep of childhood. His father had to take him up in his arms, and lay
him as he was, all dressed, on the bed which had been prepared for him.
Boghos Effendi stayed several days at Bayazid, a fortress on the
Russian frontier, crowning a great rock; and here Archag was much
impressed by the Tartars, with their high boots, their poniards at
their side, and their tall Astrakhan caps. These men spent their
evenings in wild rides about the valley below the town, flourishing
their sabers above their heads, and uttering shrill cries which
re-echoed from the great rocks. But the boy was beginning to grow
impatient at the length of the journey, so he was very glad when his
father told him that they were to leave Bayazid the next morning,
and would arrive at their destination two days later.
The country now was quite barren and uncultivated; from time to time
they would meet a Kurd shepherd, clad only in a sheep-skin, who cast
unfriendly glances at them. Everyday, at noon, the travelers stopped
near some spring to eat their luncheon; then, wearied by the long hours
in the saddle, they would stretch themselves out and take a good nap,
before proceeding on their journey.
This hour of quiet was the hardest part of the day for our friend
Archag; he hated to sleep, and his father had strictly forbidden
him to roam about. The two zaptiehs used to snore away with a good
conscience, without compunction, and Krikor would respond to them with
a nasal grunt very much like a pig. Usually, Archag amused himself by
plucking a spear of grass and tickling the sleepers under their noses;
sometimes, to give variety to his diversion, he would pinch the tips
of their ears or pull their hair. Then the men would swear in their
sleep, turn over, or strike out into the air with their fists, to the
great amusement of the culprit. Luckily for him, they never woke up,
or they would have made him pay well for his impudence.
Now, on the second day after leaving Bayazid, Archag found no amusement
in his usual sport; he was bored, and began to throw stones at the
cones on the pine-trees. He seldom missed his aim, and gave a shout
of triumph whenever a cone fell to the ground. In the midst of this
sport a slight noise above his head made him look up, and he saw a
pretty brown squirrel perched on the branch of a tree. The little
creature looked at him in a mocking way, then sprang to another tree,
and the boy followed him softly, forgetting all his fine resolutions.
Our two companions, Archag with his nose in the air, the squirrel
leaping from tree to tree, strayed farther and farther away from the
encampment, and when the child, weary of his pursuit, concluded to
retrace his steps, he saw that he was a long distance from the place
where he had left his father. He was starting to go back at once,
when he heard a low growling sound from behind a big rock, and you
may imagine his terror when he saw a great brown bear making its way
toward him. The child thought it was all over with him, but he did not
lose his head; he recalled a story he had once read, and lay down on
the ground, feigning death. His heart beat fast indeed, but the bear,
after turning him over with its paws, smelt him carefully, and went on
its way, heedless of the wanderer, and Archag got up and took to his
heels, running to throw himself into his father's arms. Boghos Effendi
turned pale on hearing of the danger into which his child had run; but
he did not scold him, for he thought that he had been punished enough.
The rest of the journey was accomplished without incident. All the
shepherds came out to meet the travelers, and they made a triumphal
entry into the Highland Farm.