CHAPTER XXXIII

HOW FAR CAN YOU GO IN COMFORT?

This was the original query that we started out to answer, and second

“How long did it take you?” is the question that has been asked us more

often than any other.

Interpreting “comfort” as really meaning “luxury,” you can go, so far

as roads are concerned, only to Pueblo. So far as _high-class_ hotels

are concerned, there are two inhospitable distances. The first from

Omaha, Nebraska, to Cheyenne, Wyoming; the second between Albuquerque,

New Mexico, and Winslow, Arizona, over three hundred miles.[7] Between

Ash Fork, Arizona, and Needles, California, the distance is one hundred

and ninety-one miles, which over those roads is a long distance, but

perfectly possible to make in a day. Also it is by no means necessary

to motor across any of these sections, unless you choose to. Putting a

machine on a freight train is a very different matter from putting it

on a boat and shipping it to Europe. In the latter case, you have to

have a crate made as big and clumsy as a small house; then there are

always delays and complications about catching boats, and altogether it

is something of an ordeal. But to send a motor across our own country,

for as short or as long a distance as you please, is very simple. You

have only to drive it to the railroad station, roll it on an automobile

freight car with a door at the end, as in a small garage, take the next

passenger train yourself and skip as many or as few miles as you choose.

In America, automobile freight is wonderfully efficient, and is about as

fast as ordinary express. (At least the Santa Fé service is.)

We spent only two days at the Grand Canyon and the car arrived in Los

Angeles at the same time we did. There is only one deterrent to frequent

freight shipments: the cost. Automobiles weigh a good deal and the

freight charges are by the pound. From Winslow, Arizona, to Los Angeles—a

distance of 613 miles—costs $151.20 for a car weighing 4,000 pounds. A

2,000-pound car would cost, of course, exactly half that amount. If you

don’t want to go into the desert where hotels are great distances apart

and roads are not the smoothest in the world, a 3,000-pound car costs

$133.20 from Albuquerque, New Mexico, to Barstow, California, after which

there are plenty of good hotels and beautiful California roads. The above

freight rates will be of interest to very few, as except in case of

accident or some unseen conditions no one who can help it, will want to

see their car, housed like a lonesome and abandoned dog, on a freight. If

it is a very crippled car, that is different; it is more like leaving it

in a nice cot in a hospital, where it can’t get hurt any more.

But on the subject of cross-continent freight, by which many people may

want to ship their cars home, the Transcontinental Freight Company’s

offices in Chicago, New York, San Francisco, etc., have a special rate

for through shipment of automobiles that is a very good thing to know

about. They ship three automobiles in one freight car, and for cars

weighing 4,500 pounds and _over_, they charge a maximum rate of $225.00,

or $5.50 a hundred pounds, from New York to San Francisco or vice versa.

A car weighing 3,000 pounds would cost $165.00.

The sole objection to this consolidated car load shipment is that they

only send out the cars when they have three auto consignments, and you

may have to wait a few days for the other two car spaces to be filled.

Also their service is only between the most important terminal points. If

you live somewhere in the middle distance between these terminal cities,

it might be cheaper, as well as more convenient, to ship by regular

railroad freight.

SOME DAY

Some day we are going back. Celia, E. M., and I have planned it. We must

have plenty of time, and take our whole families with us, so that she

will not have to hurry home to a husband, and I will not have to rush on

without pause, in order to get home to a younger son. When we go again,

we are going in two cars—one to help the other in case of need, and, if

possible, a third car to carry a camping outfit—and camp! Celia and I

both hate camping, so this proves the change that can come over you as

you go out into the West. I say “out into,” because I don’t in the least

mean being tunneled through on a limited train! The steel-walled Pullman

carefully preserves for you the attitude you started with. Plunging

into an uninhabited land is not unlike plunging into the surf. A first

shock! To which you quickly become accustomed, and find invigoratingly

delicious. Why difficulties seem to disappear; and why that magic land

leaves you afterwards with a persistent longing to go back, I can’t

explain; I only know that it is true.

The taste we had of the desert has something so appealing in the

reminiscence of its harsh immensity by day, its velvet mystery at

night—if only we might have gone further into it! We couldn’t then and

now it is lost to us, three thousand miles away!

FOOTNOTES

[1] See Map No. 1, page 285.

[2] One of the lovely white ones is the Garfield house, where the

President’s widow still lives.

[3] See Map No. 8, page 292.

[4] Since writing the above, the Union Pacific Hotel has unfortunately

burned down—and still more unfortunately for tourists, the railroad is

not building another, and will run a restaurant only.

[5] See Map No. 23, page 308.

[6] Only dinner and lunch we had in hotel.

[7] See Map No. 18. pp 302-303.

LIST OF MAPS

PAGE

Map showing the entire route by days’ runs 284

1. New York to Albany 285

2. Albany—Fort Plain—Utica—Syracuse 286

3. Syracuse to Buffalo 287

4. Buffalo—Lake Erie—Cleveland 288

5. Cleveland to Toledo 289

6. Toledo to South Bend 290

7. South Bend to Chicago 291

8. Chicago—Rochelle—Davenport 292

9. Davenport—Cedar Rapids—Des Moines 293

10. Des Moines to Omaha 294

11. Omaha to Grand Island 295

12. Grand Island to North Platte 296

13. North Platte to Cheyenne 297

14. Cheyenne to Colorado Springs 298

15. Colorado Springs to Trinidad 299

16. Trinidad to Las Vegas 300

17. Las Vegas to Albuquerque 301

18. Albuquerque to Winslow 302-303

19. Winslow to Grand Canyon 304

20. Grand Canyon to Ash Fork 305

21. Ash Fork to The Needles 306

22. The Needles to Barstow 307

23. Barstow—San Diego—Los Angeles 308

24. Los Angeles to Santa Barbara 309

25. Santa Barbara to Paso Robles 310

26. Paso Robles to Monterey 311

27. Monterey to San Francisco 312

[Illustration]

[Illustration: Map No. 1.]

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