CHAPTER XX

OUR LITTLE SISTER OF YESTERDAY

With straight black Indian hair piled high under a lace mantilla, with

necklaces of gold and silver and coral and turquoise as big as hens’

eggs, with her modern American dress barely showing under her Indian

blanket of holiest red, her head pillowed against the mountains of the

North, and her little pueblo feet in the high-heeled Spanish slippers

stretched out upon the plains of the South, Santa Fé sits dreaming in the

golden sunlight.

Sometimes she dreams idly of her girlhood when she ran about the

mountains barefooted, her hair done in two squash-blossom whorls on

either side of her dusky head, so long ago that no white man had ever set

foot on the western continent. Or perhaps, half shutting her unfathomable

eyes, she remembers the heroes who fought and died for her, or the pomp

of her marriage with her Spanish first lord, Don Juan d’Onate—noble in

estates rather than character, though he brought her a wedding-gift of

white wooly animals, afterward called sheep, and furthermore, dressed her

in fine clothes, put her in a palace, and made a lady of her. Her little

bare feet were shod in scarlet slippers, and she had many skirts of silk

and velvet, though never a bodice to one of them, but her breast was

strung with necklaces and her arms with bracelets, and she had shawls of

silk and mantillas of lace to wrap most of her face and all of her bare

brown shoulders in. The palace had walls six feet thick; some say the

thick walls were to hide the true palace already built by her own Indian

forefathers. All the same, nobles in broadcloth embroidered in silver

and gold crowded her audience room when the Island of Manhattan was a

wilderness, and the wood of which the _Mayflower_ was to be built was

still growing in the forest of England.

But then the dream becomes a sad one of injustice and cruelty; of long,

long miserable years under the oppression of a dissipated gambling tyrant

who put her family to the sword or made them slaves. Then came revolt and

savage warfare; massacres that made her palace steps run red, vivid days

of flame, black ones of darkness until——And this is her dream of dreams!

She forgets it all happened in the long ago. The quick blood leaps again

in her veins, her heart beats fast, her pulses quiver at the magic name

of her hero, her conqueror, her lover, Don Diego de Vargas! Again she

sees him, surrounded by his panoplied soldiers, lances flashing, banners

waving, marching victorious across the plaza, and planting his cross at

her palace door in the name of the Virgin, demanding her glad surrender!

“Ah, to love was to live!” says Santa Fé. “Yet in all the world there

was only one De Vargas—and he has passed!” And she wraps herself in her

Indian blanket and falls again to dreaming.

Her alliance with the American Republic is what one might call a marriage

of arrangement. Foreign in race, in sentiment, in understanding, she

has never adopted the customs or manners of her new lord, but lives

tranquilly, uneventfully, dreaming always of the long ago.

And even though Don Diego de Vargas has lain for two centuries in the

grave of his forefathers, though Indians no longer go on the warpath,

though the eight-horse wagon mile-long caravans of the traders and

travelers from the far East beyond the Mississippi no longer come

clattering down over the mountains, to the excited and welcoming

shouts of the populace of, “_Los Americanos! La Caravana!_” crowding

into the Plaza to receive them, if the streets of Santa Fé no longer

riot in tumult and bloodshed, they at least still riot in color

and picturesqueness, kaleidoscopic enough to vie with anything in

Constantinople or Cairo. You might think yourself in the Orient or in a

city of old Spain transported upon a magic carpet, but nothing less like

the United States can be imagined. Along the narrow crooked streets,

dwellings hundreds of years old stand shoulder to shoulder with modern

houses that have wedged themselves between. Down a zigzag lane you may

see an Indian woman hooded in a white cotton shawl, and balancing a jar

of water on her head as in the Biblical pictures of Rebecca.

Besides big modern automobiles are Indians leading little burros so

loaded down with firewood that their meek little faces are all there is

to be seen protruding in front, little switching tails or kicking heels

in the back, and the whole bundle supported by spindly tiny-footed legs.

On a corner is an Indian wrapped in his bright blanket. Two Mexicans in

high-crowned wide-brimmed sombreros lean against a door frame and smoke

cigarettes. Cowboys in flannel shirts have vivid bandannas around their

throats, and there is more color yet in women’s dresses, in flowers, in

fruits, in awnings—color, color rioting everywhere. Over everything the

sun bakes just as it does in Spain or Northern Africa, and the people all

look as silent and dreamy as the town.

Only a few hundred miles away are typical striving American cities

shouting to anyone who will hear, and assailing the ears of those

who won’t, “Watch me grow—just watch me!” The big ones boom it, the

little ones pipe it, but each and every one shouts to the earth at

large, “Yesterday I was a community of nesters’ shanties; today I’m an

up-to-date thriving town. Tomorrow—wait, and you shall see!”

Yet their little Indian and Spanish sister in the center of a vast domain

of buried cities, of unmined treasures, dozes in the sun and cares not

a bit how much the world outside may strive, or teem or grow. Can anyone

fancy her waking from her reverie, dropping her indolent soft Spanish

accent and shouting in strident tones, that she, too, will be a bustling

growing town? Sooner fancy the Sphinx on the African desert urging,

“Votes for women!”

By motor to the Golden Gate · 第 20 / 33 章