The first commencement was held in August, 1642, only twenty years after

the landing of the pilgrims. Mr. Peirce, the historian of the

University, writes: "Upon this novel and auspicious occasion, the

venerable fathers of the land, the governor, magistrates, and ministers

from all parts, with others in great numbers, repaired to Cambridge, and

attended with delight to refined displays of European learning, on a

spot which but just before was the abode of savages. It was a day which

on many accounts must have been singularly interesting." In attending

the commencement of 1835 I felt that I was present at an antique

ceremonial.

We had so arranged our movements as to arrive at Cambridge just in time

for the celebration, which always takes place on the last Wednesday in

August. We were the guests of the Natural Philosophy professor and his

lady, and we arrived at their house before noon on Monday the 24th. Next

to the hearty greeting we received came the pleasure of taking

possession of my apartment, it looked so full of luxury. Besides the

comfort of complete furniture of the English kind, and a pretty view

from the windows, there was a table covered with books and flowers, and

on it a programme of the engagements of the week. On looking at the

books I found among them a History and some Reports of the University;

so that it was my own fault if I plunged into the business of the week

without knowing the whence and the wherefore of its observances.

The aspect of Cambridge is charming. The college buildings have no

beauty to boast of, it is true; but the professors' houses, dropped

around, each in its garden, give an aristocratic air to the place, which

I saw in no other place of the size, and which has the grace of novelty.

The greensward, the white palings, and the gravel-walks are all well

kept, and nowhere is the New-England elm more flourishing. The noble old

elm under which Washington first drew his sword spreads a wide shade

over the ground.

After refreshing ourselves with lemonade we set out for the Botanic

Garden, which is very prettily situated and well taken care of. Here I

saw for the first time red water-lilies. None are so beautiful to my

eyes as the white; but the red mix in well with these and the yellow in

a large pond. There were some splendid South American plants; but the

head gardener seemed more proud of his dahlias than of any other

individual of his charge. From a small cottage on the terrace at the

upper end of the garden came forth Mr. Sparks, the editor of

Washington's Correspondence. While engaged in his great work, he lives

in this delightful spot. He took me into his study, and showed me his

parchment-bound collection of Washington's papers, so fearful in amount

that I almost wondered at the intrepidity of any editor who could

undertake to go through them. When one looks at the shelf above shelf of

thick folio volumes, it seems as if Washington could have done nothing

but write all his life. I believe Mr. Sparks has now finished his

arduous task, and given to the world the last of his twelve ample

volumes. It is interesting to know that he received orders for the book

from the remotest corners of the Union. A friend writes to me, "Two

hundred copies have recently gone to the Red River; and in Georgia,

South Carolina, and Alabama, the work is generously patronised. Can the

dead letter of such a man's mind be scattered through the land without

carrying with it something of his spirit?"

From the Botanic Garden we proceeded to the College, where we visited a

student's room or two, the Museum, our host's lecture-room and

apparatus, and the library.

The Harvard library was, in 1764, destroyed by fire (as everything in

America seems to be, sooner or later). The immediate occasion of the

disaster was the General Court having sat in the library, and (it being

the month of January) had a large fire lighted there. One of the most

munificent contributors to the lost library was the benevolent Thomas

Hollis. He afterward assisted to repair the loss, writing, "I am

preparing and going on with my mite to Harvard College, and lament the

loss it has suffered exceedingly; but hope a public library will no more

be turned into a council room." On this occasion there was a great

mourning. The governor sent a message of condolence to the

representatives; the newspapers bewailed it as a "ruinous loss;" and the

mother-country and the colonies were stirred up to repair the mischief.

Yet now, when the library consists of 40,000 volumes, some of them

precious treasures, there seems as much carelessness as ever about fire.

This is vehemently complained of on the spot, one honest reviewer

declaring that he cannot sleep on windy nights for thinking of the risk

arising from the library being within six feet of a building where

thirty fires are burning, day and night, under the care of students

only, who are required by their avocations to be absent three times a

day. It is to be wished that the Cambridge scholars would take warning

by the fate of the statue of Washington by Canova. This statue was the

property of the State of North Carolina, and was deposited at Raleigh,

the ornament and glory of that poor state. A citizen expressed his

uneasiness at such a work of art being housed under a roof of wood, and

urged that a stone chapel should be built for it. He was only laughed

at. Not long after the statue was utterly destroyed by fire, and there

was a general repentance that the citizen's advice had not been attended

to.

Thomas Hollis was the donor of a fine Polyglott Bible which I saw in the

library, inscribed with his hand, he describing himself a "citizen of

the world." With his contributions made before the fire he had taken

great pains, lavishing his care, first on the selection of the books,

which were of great value, and next on their bindings. He had

emblematical devices cut, such as the Caduceus of Mercury, the Wand of

Æsculapius, the Owl, the Cap of Liberty, &c.; and, when a work was

patriotic in its character, it had the cap of liberty on the back; when

the book was of solid wisdom (I suppose on philosophy or morals), there

was the owl; when on eloquence, the caduceus; when on medicine, the

Æsculapian wand, and so forth. All this ingenuity is lost except in

tradition. Five-and-thirty years ago, Fisher Ames observed that Gibbon

could not have written his history at Cambridge for want of works of

reference. The library then consisted of less than 20,000 volumes. Seven

years ago there was no copy of Kepler's Works in the library. Much has

been done since that time. The most obvious deficiencies have been

supplied, and the number of volumes has risen to upward of 40,000. There

is great zeal on the spot for a further enlargement of this treasure;

and the prevailing opinion is, that whenever a proper building is

erected, the munificence of individuals will leave nothing to be

complained of and little to be desired. The names of donors of books are

painted up in the alcoves of the library, but the books are now assorted

by their subjects. There are portraits of some of the patrons of the

institution, two of which, by Copley, are good.

The rest of our first day at Cambridge was spent in society. This was

the first time of my meeting Professor Norton, who, of all the

theologians of America, impressed me, as I believe he has impressed the

Unitarians of England generally, and certain other theologians, with the

most respect. In reach of mind, in reasoning power, in deep devotional

feeling, and, according to the universal testimony of better judges than

myself, in biblical learning, he has no superior among the American

divines, and, in some of these respects, no peer. He is regarded with

grateful veneration by the worthiest of his pupils for the invaluable

guidance he afforded them, while professor, in their biblical studies;

though they cannot but grieve that his philosophical prejudices, and his

extreme dread and dislike of opposition to his own opinions, should

betray him into a tone of arrogance, and excite in him a spirit of

persecution, which, but for ages of proof to the contrary, would seem to

be incompatible with so large a knowledge, and so humble and genuine a

faith as his. His being duly reverenced is the reason of his having been

hitherto unduly feared. His services to theological science and to

religion are gratefully appreciated; and, naturally, more weight has, at

least till lately, been allowed to his opinions of persons and affairs

than should ever be accorded to those of a man among men. But this is a

temporary disadvantage. When the friends of free inquiry and the

champions of equal intellectual rights have gone on a little longer in

the assertion of their liberty, Professor Norton's peculiarities will

have lost their power to injure, and his great qualities,

accomplishments, and services will receive a more ready and unmixed

homage than ever.

On the Tuesday several friends arrived to breakfast; and we filled up

the morning with visiting the admirably-conducted Lunatic Asylum at

Charlestown, and with a drive to Fresh Pond, one of the pretty meres

which abound in Massachusetts. We dined at the house of another

professor close at hand. The house was full in every corner with family

connexions arrived for commencement. I remember there were eleven

children in the house. We were a cheerful party at the long

dinner-table, and a host of guests filled the rooms in the evening. The

ladies sat out on the piazza in the afternoon, and saw the smoke of a

fire far off. Presently the firebells rang, and the smoke and glow

increased; and by dark it was a tremendous sight. It was the great

Charlestown fire which burned sixty houses. Some of us mounted to the

garrets, whence we could see a whole street burning on both sides,

stack after stack of chimneys falling into the flames. It is thought

that the frequency of fires in America is owing partly to the practice

of carrying woodashes from room to room; perhaps from general

carelessness about woodashes; and partly to the houses being too hastily

built, so that cracks ensue, sometimes in the chimneys, and beams are

exposed.

The important morning rose dark and dull, and soon deepened into rain.

It was rather vexatious that, in a region where, at this time of year,

one may, except in the valleys, put by one's umbrella for three or four

months, this particular morning should be a rainy one. Friend after

friend drove up to the house, popped in, shook hands, and popped out

again, till an hour after breakfast, when it was time to be setting out

for the church. I was fortunate enough to be placed in a projecting seat

at a corner of the gallery, over a flank of the platform, where I saw

everything and heard most of the exercises. The church is large, and was

completely filled. The galleries and half the area were crowded with

ladies, all gayly dressed; some without either cap or bonnet, which had

a singular effect. We were sufficiently amused with observing the

varieties of countenance and costume which are congregated on such

occasions, and in recognising old acquaintances from distant places till

ten o'clock, when music was heard, the bar was taken down from the

centre door of the church, and students and strangers poured in at the

side-entrances, immediately filling all the unoccupied pews. A student

from Maryland was marshal, and he ushered in the president, and attended

him up the middle aisle and the steps of the platform. The governor of

the state and his aids, the corporation and officers of the college, and

several distinguished visiters, took their seats on either hand of the

president. The venerable head of Dr. Bowditch was seen on the one side,

and Judge Story's animated countenance on the other. The most eminent of

the Unitarian clergy of Massachusetts were there, and some of its

leading politicians. Mr. Webster stole in from behind when the

proceedings were half over, and retired before they were finished. A

great variety of exercises were gone through by the young men: orations

were delivered, and poems, and dialogues, and addresses. Some of these

appeared to me to have a good deal of merit; two or three were delivered

by students who relied on their reputation at college, with a manner

mixed up of pomposity and effrontery, which contrasted amusingly with

the modesty of some of their companions, who did things much more worthy

of honour. I discovered that many, if not most of the compositions,

contained allusions to mob-law; of course, reprobating it. This was very

satisfactory, particularly if the reprobation was accompanied with a

knowledge of the causes and a recognition of the real perpetrators of

the recent illegal violences; a knowledge that they have invariably

sprung out of a conflict of selfish interests with eternal principles;

and a recognition that their perpetrators have universally been, at

first or second hand, aristocratic members of American society.

The exercises were relieved by music four times during the morning; and

then everybody talked, and many changed places, and the intervals were

made as refreshing as possible. Yet the routine must be wearisome to

persons who are compelled to attend it every year. From my high seat I

looked down upon the top of a friend's head--one of the reverend

professors--and was amused by watching the progress of his _ennui_. It

would not do for a professor to look wearied or careless; so my friend

had recourse to an occupation which gave him a sufficiently sage air

while furnishing him with entertainment. He covered his copy of the

programme with an infinite number of drawings. I saw stars,

laurel-sprigs, and a variety of other pretty devices gradually spreading

over the paper as the hours rolled on. I tried afterward to persuade him

to give me his handiwork as a memorial of commencement, but he would

not. At length, a clever valedictory address in Latin, drolly delivered

by a departing student, caused the large church to re-echo with laughter

and applause.

The president then got into the antique chair from which the honours of

the University are dispensed, and delivered their diplomas to the

students. During this process we departed, at half past four o'clock,

the business being concluded except the final blessing, given by the

oldest clerical professor.

At home we assembled, a party of ladies, without any gentlemen. The

gentlemen were all to dine in the College-hall. Our hostess had happened

to collect round her table a company of ladies more or less

distinguished in literature, and all, on the present occasion at least,

as merry as children; or, which is saying as much, as merry as

Americans usually are. We had, therefore, a pleasant dining enough,

during which one of these clever ladies agreed to go with us to the

White Mountains on our return from Dr. Channing's in Rhode Island. It

was just the kind of day for planning enterprises.

After dinner several of the gentlemen came in to tell us what had been

done and said at the hall. Their departure was a signal that it was time

to be dressing for the president's levee. It was the most tremendous

squeeze I encountered in America, for it is an indispensable civility to

the president and the University to be seen at the levee. The band which

had refreshed us in the morning was playing in the hall, and in the

drawing-rooms there was a splendid choice of good company. I believe

almost every eminent person in the state, for official rank or

scientific and literary accomplishment, was there. I was presented with

flowers as usual, and was favoured with some delightful introductions,

so that I much enjoyed the brief hour of our stay. We were home by eight

o'clock, and felt ourselves quite at rest again in our hostess's cool

drawing-room, where the family party sat refreshing themselves with

Champagne and conversation till the fatigues of commencement were

forgotten. My curiosity had been so roused by the spectacles of this

showy day, that I could not go to rest till I had run over the history

of the University which lay on my table. On such occasions I found it

best to defer till the early morning the making notes of what I had

seen. Many things which appear confused when looked at so near are, like

the objects of the external world, bright and distinct at sunrise; but,

then, the journal should be written before the events of a new day

begin.

Mr. Sparks breakfasted with us on the morning of the 27th. He brought

with him the pass given by Arnold to André, and the papers found in

André's boots. He possesses also the Reports of the West Point

fortifications in Arnold's undisguised handwriting. The effect is

singular of going from André's monument in Westminster Abbey to the

shores of the Hudson, where the treachery was transacted, and to Mr.

Sparks's study, where the evidence lies clear and complete.

After breakfast we proceeded once more to the church, in which were to

be performed the rites of the Phi Beta Kappa Society. This society

consists of the élite of the scholars who owe their education to

Harvard, and of distinguished professional men. Its general object is to

keep alive the spirit, and perpetuate the history of scholarship. Every

member is understood to owe his election to some evidence of distinction

in letters, though the number of members is so great as to prove that no

such supposition has become a rule. The society holds an annual

celebration in Cambridge the day after commencement, when public

exercises take place in the church, and the members dine together in the

College-hall.

We saw the society march in to music, and take possession of the

platform as on the preceding day. They were, on the whole, a

fine-looking set of men, and interesting to a stranger as being the

élite of the lettered society of the republic. A traveller could not be

expected to understand why they were so numerous, nor what were the

claims of the greater number.

Prayers were said by the chaplain of the society, and then a member

delivered an address. This address was and is to me a matter of great

surprise. I do not know what was thought of it by the members generally;

but if its doctrine and sentiments are at all sanctioned by them, I must

regard this as another evidence, in addition to many, that the minority

in America are, with regard to social principles, eminently in the

wrong. The traveller is met everywhere among the aristocracy of the

country with what seems to him the error of concluding that letters are

wisdom, and that scholarship is education. Among a people whose

profession is social equality, and whose rule of association is

universal self-government, he is surprised to behold the assumptions of

a class, and the contempt which the few express for the many, with as

much assurance as if they lived in Russia or England. Much of this is

doubtless owing to the minds of the lettered class having been nourished

upon the literature of the Old World, so that their ideas have grown

into a conformity with those of the subjects of feudal institutions, and

the least strong-minded and original indiscriminately adopt, not merely

the language, but the hopes and apprehensions, the notions of good and

evil which have been generated amid the antiquated arrangements of

European society; but, making allowance for this, as quite to be

expected of all but very strong and original minds, it is still

surprising that, within the bounds of the republic, the insolence should

be so very complacent, the contempt of the majority so ludicrously

decisive as it is. Self-satisfied, oracular ignorance and error are

always as absurd as they are mournful; but when they are seen in full

display among a body whose very ground of association is superiority of

knowledge and of the love of it, the inconsistency affords a most

striking lesson to the observer. Of course I am not passing a general

censure on the association now under notice; for I know no more of it

than what I could learn from the public exercises of this day, and a few

printed addresses and poems. I am speaking of the tone and doctrine of

the orator of the day, who might be no faithful organ of the society,

but whose ways of thinking and expressing himself were but too like

those of many literary and professional men whom I met in New-England

society.

The subject of the address was the "Duties of Educated men in a

Republic;" a noble subject, of which the orator seemed to be aware at

the beginning of his exercise. He well explained that whereas, in all

the nominal republics of the Old World, men had still been under

subjection to arbitrary human will, the new republic was established on

the principle that men might live in allegiance to truth under the form

of law. He told that the primary social duty of educated men was to

enlighten public sentiment as to what truth is, and what law ought,

therefore, to be. But here he diverged into a set of monstrous

suppositions, expressed or assumed: that men of letters are the educated

men of society in regard not only to literature and speculative truth,

but to morals, politics, and the conduct of all social affairs; that

power and property were made to go eternally together; that the "masses"

are ignorant; that the ignorant masses naturally form a party against

the enlightened few; that the masses desire to wrest power from the

wealthy few; that, therefore, the masses wage war against property; that

industry is to be the possession of the many, and property of the few;

that the masses naturally desire to make the right instead of to find

it; that they are, consequently, opposed to law; and that a struggle was

impending in which the whole power of mind must be arrayed against brute

force. This extraordinary collection of fallacies was not given in the

form of an array of propositions, but they were all taken for granted

when not announced. The orator made large reference to recent outrages

in the country; but, happily for the truth and for the reputation of

"the masses," the facts of the year supplied as complete a contradiction

as could be desired to the orator of the hour. The violences were not

perpetrated by industry against property, but by property against

principle. The violators of law were, almost without an exception,

members of the wealthy and "educated" class, while the victorious

upholders of the law were the "industrious" masses. The rapid series of

victories since gained by principle over the opposition of property, and

without injury to property--holy and harmless victories--the failure of

the law-breakers in all their objects, and their virtual surrender to

the sense and principle of the majority, are sufficient, one would hope,

to enlighten the "enlightened;" to indicate to the lettered class of

American society, that while it is truly their duty to extend all the

benefits of education which it is in their power to dispense to "the

masses," it is highly necessary that the benefit should be reciprocated,

and that the few should be also receiving an education from the many.

There are a thousand mechanics' shops, a thousand loghouses where

certain members of the Phi Beta Kappa Society, the orator of the day for

one, might learn new and useful lessons on morals and politics, on the

first principles of human relations.

I have had the pleasure of seeing the address delivered before the Phi

Beta Kappa Society at its last celebration, an address differing most

honourably from the one I was present at. The address of last August was

by Mr. R. Waldo Emerson, a name which is a sufficient warrant on the

spot for the absence from his production of all aristocratic insolence,

all contempt of man or men, in any form and under any combination. His

address breathes a truly philosophical reverence for humanity, and

exhibits an elevated conception of what are the right aims and the

reasonable discipline of the mind of a scholar and thinker. Whatever the

reader may conclude as to the philosophical doctrine of the address and

the mode in which it is conveyed--whether he accuse it of mysticism or

hail it as insight--he cannot but be touched by the spirit of

devotedness, and roused by the tone of moral independence which breathe

through the whole. The society may be considered as having amply atoned,

by this last address, for the insult rendered by its organ (however

unconsciously) to republican morals by that of 1835.

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