As we walked home through the busy streets, where there was neither the

apathy of the South nor the disorder consequent on the presence of a

pauper class, I felt strongly tempted to jump to some hasty conclusions

about the happiness of citizenship in Cincinnati. I made a virtuous

determination to suspend every kind of judgment: but I found each day

as exhilarating as the first, and, when I left the city, my impressions

were much like what they were after an observation of twenty-four hours.

The greater part of the next morning was occupied with visiters; but we

found an interval to go out, under the guidance of friends, to see a few

things which lay near at hand. We visited the Museum, where we found, as

in all new museums whose rooms want filling up, some trumpery among much

which is worthy to remain. There was a mermaid not very cleverly

constructed, and some bad wax figures, posted like sentinels among the

cases of geological and entomological specimens; but, on the whole, the

Museum is highly creditable to the zeal of its contributors. There is,

among other good things, a pretty complete collection of the currency of

the country, from the earliest colonial days, and some of other

countries with it. I hope this will be persevered in, and that the

Cincinnati merchants will make use of the opportunities afforded by

their commerce of collecting specimens of every kind of currency used in

the world, from the gilt and stamped leather of the Chinese and

Siberians to the last of Mr. Biddle's twenty-dollar notes. There is a

reasonable notion abroad that the Americans are the people who will

bring the philosophy and practice of exchanges to perfection; and theirs

are the museums in which should be found a full history of currency, in

the shape of a complete set of specimens.

We visited Mr. Flash's bookstore, where we saw many good books, some

very pretty ones, and all cheap. We heard there good accounts of the

improved and improving literary taste of the place, shown in the

increasing number of book societies, and the superior character of the

works supplied to their orders. Mr. Flash and his partner are in favour

of the protection of foreign literary property, as a matter of interest

as well as principle.

We next went to the painting-room of a young artist, Mr. Beard, whose

works pleased me more than those of any other American artist. When I

heard his story, and saw what he had already achieved, I could not doubt

that, if he lived, he would run a noble career. The chief doubt was

about his health, the doubt which hangs over the destiny of almost every

individual of eminent promise in America. Two years before I saw him

Beard had been painting portraits at a dollar a head in the interior of

Ohio; and it was only a year since he suddenly and accidentally struck

into the line in which he will probably show himself the Flamingo of the

New World. It was just a year since he had begun to paint children. He

had then never been out of his native state. He was born in the

interior, where he began to paint without having ever seen a picture,

except the daubs of itinerant artists. He married at nineteen, and came

to Cincinnati, with wife, child, an empty purse, a head full of

admiration of himself, and a heart full of confidence in this admiration

being shared by all the inhabitants of the city. He had nothing to show,

however, which could sanction his high claims, for his portraits were

very bad. When he was in extreme poverty, he and his family were living,

or rather starving, in one room, at whose open window he put up some of

his pictures to attract the notice of passengers. A wealthy merchant,

Mr. G., and a gentleman with him, stopped and made their remarks to each

other, Mr. G. observing, "The fellow has talent, after all." Beard was

sitting behind his pictures, heard the remark, and knew the voice. He

was enraged. Mr. G. visited him, with a desire to encourage and assist

him; but the angry artist long resisted all attempts to pacify him. At

his first attempt to paint a child, soon after, all his genius shone

forth, to the astonishment of every one but himself. He has proved to be

one of the privileged order who grow gentle, if not modest, under

appreciation; he forgave Mr. G., and painted several pictures for him. A

few wealthy citizens were desirous of sending him to Italy to study. His

reply to every mention of the subject is, that he means to go to Italy,

but that he shall work his own way there. In order to see how he liked

the world, he paid a visit to Boston while I was there, intending to

stay some time. From a carriage window I saw him in the street, stalking

along like a chief among inferiors, his broad white collar laid over his

coat, his throat bare, and his hair parted in the middle of his

forehead, and waving down the sides of his face. People turned to look

after him. He stayed only a fortnight, and went back to Ohio expressing

great contempt for cities. This was the last I heard of him.

I have a vivid remembrance of three of his pictures of children. One of

a boy trudging through a millstream to school, absolutely American, not

only in the scenery, but in the air and countenance of the boy, which

were exquisitely natural and fresh. Another was a boy about to go

unwillingly to school; his satchel was so slung over his shoulder as to

show that he had not put it on himself; the great bite in the slice of

bread and butter intimated that breakfast was going on in the midst of

the grief; and the face was distorted with the most ludicrous passion.

Thus far all might have been done by the pencil of the mere

caricaturist. The triumph of the painter was in the beauty and grace of

the child shining through the ridiculous circumstances amid which he was

placed. It was obvious that the character of the face, when undisturbed

by passion, was that of careless gayety. The third was a picture of

children and a dog; one beautiful creature astride of the animal, and

putting his cap upon the head of the dog, who was made to look the sage

of the party. I saw and liked some of his pictures of another character.

Any one of his humorous groups might be thought almost worthy of Wilkie;

but there was repetition in them; two favourite heads especially were

popped in, in situations too nearly resembling. The most wonderful,

perhaps, of his achievements was a fine full-length portrait of a

deceased lady whom he had never seen. It was painted from a miniature,

and under the direction of the widower, whom it fully satisfied in

regard to the likeness. It was a breathing picture. He is strongly

disposed to try his hand on sculpture. I saw a bust of himself which he

had modelled. It was a perfect likeness, and had much spirit. All this,

and much more, having been done in a single year by one who had never

seen a good picture, it seems reasonable to expect great things from

powers so rapidly and profusely developed. Beard's name was little, if

at all, known beyond his native state while I was in the country. If he

lives, it will soon be heard of in Europe.

In the afternoon a large party called on us for an expedition into

Kentucky. We crossed the river in the ferryboat without leaving the

carriages, drove through Covington, and mounted slowly through a wood,

till we reached the foot of a steep hill, where we alighted. We climbed

the hill, wild with tall grass and shrubs, and obtained the view of

Cincinnati which is considered the completest. I now perceived that,

instead of being shut in between two hills, the city stands on a noble

platform, round which the river turns while the hills rise behind. The

platform is perfectly ventilated, and the best proof of this is the

healthiness of the city above all other American cities. A physician who

had been seven years a resident told me that he had been very delicate

in health before he came, like many others of the inhabitants; and, like

many others, he had not had a day's illness since his arrival. The

average of deaths in the city during the best season was seven per week;

and, at the worst time of the year, the mortality was less than in any

city of its size in the republic.

There is ample room on the platform for a city as large as Philadelphia,

without encroaching at all on the hill-sides. The inhabitants are

already consulting as to where the Capitol shall stand whenever the

nation shall decree the removal of the general government beyond the

mountains. If it were not for the noble building at Washington, this

removal would probably take place soon, perhaps after the opening of the

great Southern railroad. It seems rather absurd to call senators and

representatives to Washington from Missouri and Louisiana, while there

is a place on the great rivers which would save them half the journey,

and suit almost everybody else just as well, and many much better. The

peril to health at Washington in the winter season is great, and the

mild and equable temperature of Cincinnati is an important circumstance

in the case.

We hurried home to prepare for an evening party, and tea was brought up

to us while we dressed. All the parties I was at in Cincinnati were very

amusing, from the diversity in the company, and in the manners of the

natives of the East and West. The endeavour seems to be to keep up

rather than to disuse distinctive observances, and this almost makes the

stranger fancy that he has travelled a thousand miles between one

evening and the next. The effect is entertaining enough to the foreign

guest, but not very salutary to the temper of the residents, to judge by

the complaints I heard about sectional exclusiveness. It appeared to me

that the thing chiefly to be wished in this connexion was that the

Easterners should make large concessions and allowance. It would be well

for them to remember that it was they who chose the Western city, and

not the city them; and that, if the elderly inhabitants are rather proud

of their Western deeds, and ostentatiously attached to their Western

symbols, this is a circumstance belonging to the place, and deliberately

encountered, with other circumstances, by new residents; and that,

moreover, all that they complain of is an indulgence of the feelings of

a single generation. When the elderly members of the society drop off,

the children of all residents will wear the buckeye, or forget it alike.

And it certainly appeared to me that the cool assumption by Easterners

of the superiority of New-England over all other countries was, whether

just or not, likely to be quite as offensive to the buckeyes as any

buckeye exultation could be to the Yankees.

At one evening party the company sat round the drawing-room,

occasionally changing places or forming groups without much formality.

They were chiefly Yankees, of various accomplishments, from the learned

lawyer who talked with enthusiasm about Channing, and with strong sense

about everything but politics, in which his aristocratic bias drew him

aside into something like nonsense, to the sentimental young widow, who

instantly began talking to me of her dear Mr. ----, and who would return

to the subject as often as I led away from it. Every place was

remarkable for her dear Mr. ---- having been better or worse there; and

every event was measured by its having happened so long before or after

her dear Mr. ---- was buried. The conversation of the society was most

about books, and society and its leaders at home and abroad. The manners

of the lady of the house were, though slightly impaired by timidity,

such as would grace any society of any country. The house, handsomely

furnished, and adorned with some of the best of Beard's pictures, stood

on a terrace beautifully surrounded with shrubbery, and commanding a

fine view of the city.

At another party there was a great variety. An enormous buckeye bowl of

lemonade, with a ladle of buckeye, stood on the hall table, and

symbolical sprigs of the same adorned the walls. On entering the

drawing-room I was presented with a splendid bouquet, sent by a lady by

the hands of her brother, from a garden and conservatory which are the

pride of the city. My first introduction was to the Catholic bishop, my

next to a lady whom I thought then and afterward one of the cleverest

women I met in the country. There was a slight touch of pedantry to be

excused, and a degree of tory prejudice against the bulk of the human

race which could scarcely be exceeded even in England; but there was a

charming good-humour in the midst of it all, and a power both of

observation and reasoning which commanded high respect. One Western

gentleman sidled about in a sort of minuet step, unquestionably a

gentleman as he was in all essential respects; and one young lady, who

was, I fancy, taking her first peep at the world, kept her eyes

earnestly fixed on the guests as they entered, bowing unconsciously in

sympathy with every gentleman who bowed, and courtesying with every lady

who courtesied. She must have been well practised in salutation before

the evening was over, for the party was a large one. All the rest, with

the exception of a forward Scotchman, were well-bred, and the evening

passed off very pleasantly amid brisk conversation, mirth, and excellent

refreshments.

Another party was at the splendid house to which the above-mentioned

garden and conservatory belong. The proprietor has a passion for

gardening, and his ruling taste seems likely to be a blessing to the

city. He employs four gardeners, and toils in his grounds with his own

hands. His garden is on a terrace which overlooks the canal, and the

most parklike eminences form the background of the view. Between the

garden and the hills extend his vineyards, from the produce of which he

has succeeded in making twelve kinds of wine, some of which are highly

praised by good judges. Mr. Longworth himself is sanguine as to the

prospect of making Ohio a wine-growing region, and he has done all that

an individual can to enhance the probability. In this house is West's

preposterous picture of Ophelia, the sight of which amazed me after all

I had heard of it. It is not easy to imagine how it should have obtained

the reputation of being his best while his Cromwell is in existence. The

party at this house was the largest and most elegant of any that I

attended in Cincinnati. Among many other guests, we met one of the

judges of the Supreme Court, a member of Congress and his lady, two

Catholic priests, Judge Hall, the popular writer, with divines,

physicians, lawyers, merchants, and their families. The spirit and

superiority of the conversation were worthy of the people assembled.

The morning of the 19th shone brightly down on the festival of the day.

It was the anniversary of the opening of the Common Schools. Some of the

schools passed our windows in procession, their banners dressed with

garlands, and the children gay with flowers and ribands. A lady who was

sitting with me remarked, "this is our populace." I thought of the

expression months afterward, when _the gentlemen_ of Cincinnati met to

pass resolutions on the subject of abolitionism, and when one of the

resolutions recommended mobbing as a retribution for the discussion of

the subject of slavery; the law affording no punishment for free

discussion. Among those who moved and seconded these resolutions, and

formed a deputation to threaten an advocate of free discussion, were

some of the merchants who form the aristocracy of the place; and the

secretary of the meeting was the accomplished lawyer whom I mentioned

above, and who told me that the object of his life is law reform in

Ohio! The "populace" of whom the lady was justly proud have, in no case

that I know of, been the law-breakers; and in as far as "the populace"

means not "the multitude," but the "vulgar," I do not agree with the

lady that these children were the populace. Some of the patrons and

prizegivers afterward proved themselves "the vulgar" of the city.

The children were neatly and tastefully dressed. A great improvement has

taken place in the costume of little boys in England within my

recollection, but I never saw such graceful children as the little boys

in America, at least in their summer dress. They are slight, active, and

free. I remarked that several were barefoot, though in other respects

well clad; and I found that many put off shoes and stockings from choice

during the three hot months. Others were barefoot from poverty; children

of recent settlers, and of the poorest class of the community.

We set out for the church as soon as the procession had passed, and

arrived before the doors were opened. A platform had been erected below

the pulpit, and on it were seated the mayor and principal gentlemen of

the city. The two thousand children then filed in. The report was read,

and proved very satisfactory. These schools were established by a

cordial union of various political and religious parties; and nothing

could be more promising than the prospects of the institution as to

funds, as to the satisfaction of the class benefited, and as to the

continued union of their benefactors. Several boys then gave specimens

of elocution which were highly amusing. They seemed to suffer under no

false shame, and to have no misgiving about the effect of the vehement

action they had been taught to employ. I wondered how many of them would

speak in Congress hereafter. It seems doubtful to me whether the present

generation of Americans are not out in their calculations about the

value and influence of popular oratory. They ought certainly to know

best; but I never saw an oration produce nearly so much effect as books,

newspapers, and conversation. I suspect that there is a stronger

association in American minds than the times will justify between

republicanism and oratory; and that they overlook the facts of the vast

change introduced by the press, a revolution which has altered men's

tastes and habits of thought, as well as varied the methods of reaching

minds. As to the style of oratory itself, reasoning is now found to be

much more impressive than declamation, certainly in England, and I

think, also, in the United States; and though, as every American boy is

more likely than not to act some part in public life, it is desirable

that all should be enabled to speak their minds clearly and gracefully.

I am inclined to think it a pernicious mistake to render declamatory

accomplishment so prominent a part of education as it now is. I trust

that the next generation will exclude whatever there is of insincere and

traditional in the practice of popular oratory; discern the real value

of the accomplishment, and redeem the reproach of bad taste which the

oratory of the present generation has brought upon the people. While the

Americans have the glory of every citizen being a reader and having

books to read, they cannot have, and need not desire, the glory of

shining in popular oratory, the glory of an age gone by.

Many prizes of books were given by the gentlemen on the platform, and

the ceremony closed with an address from the pulpit which was true, and,

in some respects, beautiful, but which did not appear altogether

judicious to those who are familiar with children's minds. The children

were exhorted to trust their teachers entirely; to be assured that their

friends would do by them what was kindest. Now neither children nor

grown people trust any more than they believe because they are bid.

Telling them to have confidence is so much breath wasted. If they are

properly trained, they will unavoidably have this trust and confidence,

and the less that is said about it the better. If not, the less said the

better, too; for confidence is then out of the question, and there is

danger in making it an empty phrase. It would be well if those whose

office it is to address children were fully aware that exhortation,

persuasion, and dissuasion are of no use in their case, and that there

is immeasurable value in the opposite method of appeal. Make truth

credible, and they will believe it; make goodness lovely, and they will

love it; make holiness cheerful, and they will be glad in it; but remind

them of themselves by threat, inducement, or exhortation, and you impair

(if you do anything) the force of their unconscious affections; try to

put them upon a task of arbitrary self-management, and your words pass

over their ears only to be forgotten.

Before eight o'clock in the evening the Cincinnati public was pouring

into Mrs. Trollope's bazar, to the first concert ever offered to them.

This bazar is the great deformity of the city. Happily, it is not very

conspicuous, being squatted down among houses nearly as lofty as the

summit of its dome. From my window at the boarding-house, however, it

was only too distinctly visible. It is built of brick, and has Gothic

windows, Grecian pillars, and a Turkish dome, and it was originally

ornamented with Egyptian devices, which have, however, all disappeared

under the brush of the whitewasher. The concert was held in a large

plain room, where a quiet, well-mannered audience was collected. There

was something extremely interesting in the spectacle of the first public

introduction of music into this rising city. One of the best performers

was an elderly man, clothed from head to foot in gray homespun. He was

absorbed in his enjoyment; so intent on his violin, that one might watch

the changes of his pleased countenance the whole performance through

without fear of disconcerting him. There was a young girl, in a plain

white frock, with a splendid voice, a good ear, and a love of warbling

which carried her through very well indeed, though her own taste had

obviously been her only teacher. If I remember right, there were about

five-and-twenty instrumental performers, and six or seven vocalists,

besides a long row for the closing chorus. It was a most promising

beginning. The thought came across me how far we were from the musical

regions of the Old World, and how lately this place had been a

canebrake, echoing with the bellow and growl of wild beast; and here was

the spirit of Mozart swaying and inspiring a silent crowd as if they

were assembled in the chapel at Salzburg!

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