Distant view of Teheran--Demavend--Rhe--Entrance into the
Capital--Hajee Ibrahim--Zâl Khan--Terms of Courtesy.
The first distant view we had of Teheran, the modern capital of Persia,
was very imposing. It is situated near the foot of Elboorz, a mountain
of the great range which stretches from Europe to the utmost limits of
Asia. This range would appear high, were it not for Demavend, whose
lofty peak, rising above the clouds, and covered with eternal snow,
gives a diminutive appearance to every thing in its vicinity.
We had seen Demavend at the distance of one hundred miles from its
base, but it increased in magnificence as we advanced; and those
amongst us who delighted in the pages of Firdousee now planned an early
visit to this remarkable mountain, whose summit that poet describes
as "far from the abode of man, and near to Heaven." A Persian of our
party, called Meerzâ Ibrahim, who had been at Demavend, increased our
curiosity by a detail of the wonders we should see when we visited
that place. "Amongst others," said he, "is the cave that was once the
habitation of the Deev-e-Seffeed, who was slain by Roostem; and if
fortunate," he added, "you may catch a glimpse of the Deev's daughter,
whose dwelling is on the point of an inaccessible rock, at the edge of
which she now and then appears; and is reported, notwithstanding her
age, which cannot be less than two thousand four hundred years, to be
as active with her distaff, and looking as well as ever.
"Higher up the mountain," continued our informant, "amid rocks and
snow, which forbid all mortal approach, dwells Zohâk, the most wicked
of kings, surrounded by a court of magicians and sorcerers; this
at least is the belief of the worshippers of fire. But it has been
considered as unworthy of credit by the Mahomedan historians of Persia,
who, however, do not treat so lightly the record which asserts, that
in ancient times, when Menoo-cheher made peace with Afrâsiâb,[116]
one of the articles of the treaty was, that Persia was to have all
the country in a north-east direction, over which an arrow could be
shot from Demavend. A hero, called Arish, ascended to the top of the
mountain, and such was his miraculous prowess that he sent an arrow
to the banks of the Oxus, a distance of between five and six hundred
miles. Monarchs in these days," said Meerzâ Ibrahim, "we are assured
were very particular in performing their treaties, and the country was
faithfully ceded."
"I have read all the discussions upon this subject," said Meerzâ Aga
Meer, who here joined in the conversation. "One Persian historian, who
relates this fact, admits that it is incomprehensible, but at the same
time adds, that he deems it his duty to give it as received from former
writers, who state, that the arrow which was discharged at sunrise did
not fall till noon.
"Another author of high reputation informs us, that the 'Festival of
the Arrow,'[117] on the 13th of October,[118] which is still kept by
the followers of Zoroaster, is in commemoration of this event.
"The arrow about which so much has been said and written," added
Aga Meer, "is admitted by almost all to have been of gold.
Some philosophers, however, have conjectured that it contained
quicksilver and other substances, which, when heated by the sun,
added to its projectile force; and we are informed, that the great
'Boo-Ali-seenâ[119] did not consider this feat beyond the compass of
human ingenuity."
I concluded this discussion about the wonderful arrow by observing,
that some sceptical commentators on this passage of ancient history had
given their opinion, that the story of the golden arrow, flying from
Demavend to the Oxus, was nothing more than a bold metaphor, to express
that the Persians conquered that extent of country by their skill in
archery; "But the opinions of such writers," I said, "are rejected by
all who prefer plain facts to far-fetched metaphors."
At a short distance from our camp we observed several mounds of earth
and ruined walls, which we were told was all that remained of the once
famous Ragas of Tobit--the Rhages of the Greeks, and the Rhe of the
Persians.
While all who had imagination and a love of antiquity dwelt with
delight on the prospect of ascending Demavend, and visiting the ruins
of Rhe, the men of business looked only to Teheran, which appeared to
me to offer little to the view which was either grand or pleasing. One
palace alone attracted any portion of my admiration. It stood near the
base of the mountain Elboorz, on a commanding site, and was every way
suited for a royal residence.
We were called from our plans and prospects to prepare for the entry
of the Mission into the capital; but the ceremonies of the procession
were not yet fully arranged. Letters and notes passed every minute;
secretaries and confidential messengers went to and fro without
intermission. These communications and messages chiefly related to
the forms of our reception. The period of entering Teheran had been
long fixed by the Elchee, who had consulted an eminent astrologer at
Isfahan upon this subject. The wise man, after casting his nativity,
and comparing what he found written in the book of his destiny with the
object of his Mission, which he had been told was the establishment
of friendly intercourse with Persia, declared, by a paper given under
his hand, for which he was no doubt well fee'd, "That, provided the
Elchee entered the gate of Teheran at forty-five minutes past two
o'clock, P.M. on the 13th of November, 1800, success would attend his
negotiation, and he would accomplish all his wishes."
Meerzâ Aga Meer, who, like the most enlightened of his countrymen,
believed firmly in the occult science of astrology, had the best
chronometer in our party intrusted to his care. It was given
him because his situation enabled him to ride in the procession
sufficiently near the Elchee to prompt him when to go a little faster
or slower, in order that the gate of the capital might be entered at
the exact moment, a point to which the astrologer had attached the
greatest importance.
The party who came out some miles to welcome the Elchee consisted of
several noblemen, the chief of whom was Nou Rôz Khan Kajir, the Lord of
Requests and Commander of the King's Guard.
About six hundred horse, principally royal guards, accompanied this
chief. We prepared for their reception by sounding the trumpets and
beating the drums of our cavalry and infantry, and putting all the
suite, European and native, in regular array.
When the parties were within twenty yards of each other they halted,
and Nou Rôz Khan prepared to dismount. The Elchee did the same. The
latter poised himself a moment in the stirrup, lest his foot should be
on the ground before that of the Persian nobleman, which would have
marked inferiority. But the soldier-like movements of Nou Rôz Khan
showed at once he was a manly fellow, and no stickler about ceremonies.
He not only dismounted with expedition, but hastened, before the Elchee
had time to quit his horse, to come forward and welcome the guest of
his sovereign.
We had all dismounted at the instant the Elchee did, and after mutual
introduction the whole party were again on their march, the Elchee and
Nou Rôz Khan riding exactly parallel, and their attendants a little in
the rear, nearer or more remote, according to their respective ranks.
On the plain which we passed, before coming to the capital, some of the
guards of the king displayed their skill in horsemanship. They threw
the Jerreed[120] at each other with excellent aim; and it was often
only avoided by extraordinary activity, the horseman sometimes to all
appearance throwing himself from his horse, while the jerreed whizzed
over him.
Another exercise, called the Doghela-Bâzee, is performed by the rider
holding a stick little more than a yard long in his hand, one end of
which he throws with great force on the ground, on the near side of the
horse when at full gallop; the direction given by this stroke causes it
to rebound over the horse's head, and the rider catches it while yet
whirling round in the air.
But of all these exhibitions, that which pleased me most was the skill
they displayed as marksmen. When at full speed, the rider throws a
lemon over his head, and twisting his body completely round to the
left, fires at it from the off-flank of the horse,[121] almost always
with good aim, and often hitting it. This appeared to me, as combining
the different motions of the horse, the rider, and the lemon, quite
wonderful, but, like other surprising feats, it is the result of
constant practice; for the child in Persia commences this exercise at
six or seven years of age, and it is never abandoned, while there is
strength left to sit upon a horse and to pull a trigger.
The crowds of people we now saw announced that we were in the suburbs
of Teheran. I heard Aga Meer whisper the Elchee, "You have yet ten
minutes,--a little slower." "Quicker!" was afterwards pronounced in
an under tone. Again I heard "Slower!" then "Now!" and the charger of
the Elchee put his foot over the threshold of the gate of Teheran. "Al
hamd-ool-illâh! Thanks be to God!" said the Meer, with a delighted
countenance; "it was the very moment,--how fortunate!" This joy, and
the expression of it, told all to Nou Rôz Khan, who evidently deemed
the proceeding as a matter of course; and when he heard the name of the
astrologer who was consulted at Isfahan, he seemed to think, after such
a happy moment of arrival, there could be no doubt of the fulfilment of
his predictions. This sentiment was general among the Persians in our
suite. Some of them might have doubted the sincerity of the Elchee's
belief in the occult sciences, but even these were pleased at the
consideration given to what he deemed their prejudices.
One day after the treaties were concluded, I heard the prime minister
say, with a smile, to the Elchee, "You see, with all your European
knowledge, of what consequence it is to attend to a Persian astrologer,
who instructs you to fight us with our own weapons, the stars and
planets."
On entering Teheran, we were conducted through the streets to the house
of the prime minister, Hajee Ibrahim. Here Nou Rôz Khan left us; but we
were welcomed at the gate of the dwelling by several of the friends and
principal members of the minister's family, and we had hardly seated
ourselves, when the Hajee was announced as coming to visit his guests.
My curiosity to see this extraordinary man was very great. "There
must," I thought, "be something wonderful in the appearance as well
as in the mind of that human being, who, by the mere force of his
character, has raised himself from the rank of an humble magistrate
in the city of Shiraz, to be a 'puller-down and setter-up of kings;'
who, without any pretensions to military talent, and without learning
sufficient to write a note or read three lines, has overcome heroes,
has established sovereigns on the throne of Persia, and by his firmness
and wisdom has given a peace and tranquillity to his native land beyond
what it has known for a century."
The Persians are a handsome race of men, and fond of decorating their
persons. I expected therefore to see Hajee Ibrahim enter elegantly
dressed, with a dignified if not an elastic step, with a commanding
figure, a clear animated countenance, with features expressive of
his superior character: and, above all, with two piercing eyes,
distinguished perhaps by that restless wandering from object to object,
which indicates the care and anxiety of a man who held power and life
by so precarious a tenure as a prime minister of Persia.
We all arose as he was announced, and the Elchee went forward to meet
him. Judge of my surprise when I saw, instead of the magnificent
personage of my imagination, a heavy-looking man, dressed in very
plain clothes, enter the room, and proceed towards his seat, with a
rolling of the body that almost approached to a waddle. His features
were rather coarse, and his eyes, though clear, had nothing of the
piercing or searching qualities I had anticipated. As to his manners,
they did not appear to have changed with his condition, but to be still
those of a respectable citizen of Shiraz. I was, I must confess, quite
disappointed; but before the half hour expired, which he passed in
conversation with the Elchee, my mind had undergone another change, for
there was in all he said a good sense, a sincerity, and a strength,
that quite convinced me of the justice of the fame he had acquired.
The Hajee's brother, Abd-ool-Raheem Khan, came the day after our
arrival to pay his respects to the Elchee. An attempt was made by
the steward of the minister's household to obtain more deference
for this person than he was from his rank entitled to. "The Hajee,"
said the politic major-domo, "always gives the seat of honour to
Abd-ool-Raheem Khan, who is his elder brother!" "He is right in so
doing," said the Elchee; "but this gentleman is not my elder brother."
The reply indicated a knowledge of the relations on which precedence
was to be given or refused, which terminated the discussion. In came
Abd-ool-Raheem Khan, a very fat and dull man, whose merit appeared
limited to that of being brother to a prime minister. He took his
seat very contentedly; staid half an hour; spoke half a sentence--and
retired.
The first night I passed at Hajee Ibrahim's, I was disturbed by a
continued mumbling and confused noise in the next apartment, which,
upon inquiry, I found proceeded from the extreme piety of its inmate,
Zâl Khan of Khisht.
This remarkable man had established a great name in his native
mountains, betwixt Abusheher and Shiraz; and he was long distinguished
as one of the bravest and most attached followers of the Zend family.
When the death of Lootf Ali Khan terminated its power, he, along with
the other governors of provinces and districts in Fars, submitted
to Aga Mahomed Khan. That cautious and cruel monarch, dreading the
ability, and doubtful of the allegiance of this chief, ordered his eyes
to be put out: an appeal for the recall of the sentence being treated
with disdain, Zâl Khan loaded the tyrant with curses. "Cut out his
tongue," was the second order. This mandate was imperfectly executed;
and the loss of half this member deprived him of speech. Being
afterwards persuaded that its being cut close to the root would enable
him to speak so as to be understood, he submitted to the operation,
and the effect has been, that his voice, though indistinct and thick,
is yet intelligible to persons accustomed to converse with him. This
I experienced from daily intercourse. He often spoke to me of his
sufferings, and of the humanity of the present king, who had restored
him to his situation as head of his tribe, and governor of Khisht.
I am not an anatomist, and cannot therefore give a reason why a man,
who could not articulate with half a tongue, should speak when he had
none at all; but the facts are as stated, and I had them from the very
best authority, old Zâl Khan himself.
Some points of no small consequence underwent discussion the day after
we reached Teheran. The Persian language is very copious, and has many
terms which, though signifying in substance the same, have a shade
of difference in the application, which enables those versed in such
matters to use them so as to denote the rank and respective relations
of the parties who hold intercourse with each other. For instance, the
word friendship may be expressed by three or four terms, which imply
superiority, equality, or inferiority. The speaker may, by the manner
in which he introduces the expression "I have a regard for you"--"I
esteem your friendship"--"My duty always attends you"--or, "My service
is at your command," mark the respect or relation in which he holds
him whom he addresses. These are in Persia, as with us, expressions of
courtesy; but in that country the subject meets much more attention
than we give it, and especially in all communications with a foreign
envoy.
Both the Elchee and his host, Hajee Ibrahim, might have smiled inwardly
at the trifling nature of such forms, but the relation in which they
stood towards each made it necessary to observe them; and as the terms
they used in conversation were likely to serve as a standard to others,
it was judged necessary to have a congress of meerzâs or secretaries,
skilled in such niceties, to settle this important point.
Two very formal men were deputed by the minister; and Aga Meer and
Mahomed Hoosein, the Indian Moonshee, attended on the part of the
Elchee. The negotiation was opened on the admitted basis of perfect
equality of rank between the parties. Notwithstanding the apparent
simplicity of the subject, much discussion ensued. My Indian friend
gave me a full account of it. "The minister's meerzâs," said he,
"endeavoured to establish points which, though seemingly trivial,
would have given a shade of superiority to their master which I would
not admit: they rather alarmed Aga Meer, who, being a Persian, could
not be expected to stand up against them, at the hazard of giving
offence to those of his country who were in power: but what did I
care," said Mahomed Hoosein, swelling with the part he had acted at
this conference, "for their prime ministers? I know no superiors but my
master and the English government.
"They told me," he added, "that by giving now and then a term of
respect to Hajee Ibrahim, more than he received, the Elchee would add
to the consequence of that minister, and not diminish his own, as they
were informed that people in England cared little about such matters. I
told them, however, that the Elchee, in all he did or said, considered
the impressions he was to make in Persia, not in England, and that he
would abandon no claims to respect, even in matters of the slightest
word or form, which tended in any manner to affect his representative
character with the nation to which he was sent.
"Seeing," said the good Moonshee,[122] "that nothing was to be gained
from me, they came at last to an amicable arrangement." The word
friendship, which implies perfect equality, may be used in common
conversation; but occasionally the terms, "my duty waits upon you,"
or, "my service is at your command," are to be introduced, with this
express provision, that whenever one party in the excess of his
politeness uses them, the other is to take the earliest opportunity
of doing the same. This rule is also to be particularly observed in
the important phrases of "you represented," "you said," or, "you
commanded." "You said," is settled as the term of equality; but "you
commanded," it is agreed, may be frequently interchanged, as tending to
show the great respect the parties entertain for each other.
Possessed of this information, I watched the first interview of those
for whom this arrangement was made with no little interest. I noticed
that the Elchee replied immediately to the first concession made by
Hajee Ibrahim by a similar expression: but when he himself made one
some time afterwards, which did not meet with so prompt a return, I
was amused to see him retreat upon his terms of equality. This had the
desired effect. No more encroachments were made upon his dignity; and
from his conduct on this occasion, and others of similar importance,
he was no doubt considered by the Persians as a most accomplished
diplomatist!
The termination of this battle of words at Teheran, added to that of
forms at Shiraz, were happy preparations for the discussions regarding
the ceremonies of presentation to the king; but these will be noticed
in the next chapter.
FOOTNOTES:
[116] The Sovereign of Tartary.
[117] Teer-gah.
[118] The month of October, in the ancient Persian Calendar, is called
Teer or the Arrow.
[119] Avicenna.
[120] A wooden javelin.
[121] The modern Persian horseman has changed the bow of his ancestors
for a matchlock, but the mode of using his arms is the same. The
Parthians are described, in their successful contests with the
disciplined legions of Rome, as carrying on their attacks, not against
the army but the supplies by which it was supported.
"The mode in which the Parthian warrior took his unerring aim, while
his horse was carrying him from his enemy," says the author of the
History of Persia, "may be viewed as a personification of the system of
warfare by which his nation, during this era of its history, maintained
its independence. The system was suited to the soil, to the man, and to
the fleet and robust animal on which he was mounted; and its success
was so certain, that the bravest veterans of Rome murmured when their
leaders talked of a Parthian war."--History of Persia, vol. i. p. 88.
[122] This excellent man is living on a small estate in his native
country, the northern Circars, granted for his services in Persia and
other quarters. He accompanied his old master, the Elchee, in the
campaign in India of 1817-18; and in consideration of this further
service to the public, his estate has been settled upon his children.