The scale drawings are so complete as to dimensions that, assuming the
materials to be of the sizes specified, they may be followed
implicitly. It is, of course, easy to modify the design to suit any
slight differences in dimensions; and to avoid mistakes all the stuff
should be gauged carefully beforehand.
[Illustration: FIG. 18.-Side of cycle shed.]
The Sides.—When laying out the frames for these it is necessary to bear
in mind that the front upright is somewhat less than 5 feet 6 inches
long, and the back upright rather more than 5 feet, owing to the slope
of the roof, and to the fact that they are set in 2 inches from the
back and front. To get the lengths and angle of the half-joints right,
lay the verticals, which should be 5 feet 6 inches and 5 feet 1 inch
long before trimming, on the floor, at right angles to the bottom of
the frame (2 feet 7-3/4 inches long) and quite parallel to one another.
(We will assume the half-joints to have been made at the bottom.) The
batten for the top is laid across the ends of the verticals, its top
edge in line with a 5-foot 6-inch mark at a point 2 inches beyond the
front vertical, and with a 5-foot mark 2 inches beyond the back
vertical, the distances being measured perpendicularly from the bottom
of the frames produced. The lines for the joints can then be marked,
and the joints cut. The notches for the roof stays should not be cut
till the roof is being fitted.
[Illustration: FIG. 19.—Boards at top of side, fixed ready for cutting
off.]
Use the side frame first made as template for the other.
The shelves are notched at the ends, so that their back faces shall be
flush with the board side of the frame.
Fix the corners with the screws, and plane off the projecting angles of
the uprights.
When putting on the boards, start at the back of the frame. Plane down
the groove edge of the first board until the groove is out of the
board, and apply the board with 1-1/2 inches projecting beyond the
frame. Leave a little spare at each end of every board, and when the
side is covered run a tenon-saw across both ends of all the boards
close to the frame, and finish up with the plane. This is quicker and
makes a neater job than cutting each board to size separately.
[Illustration: FIG. 20.-Back of cycle shed.]
The Back (Fig. 20).—When laying out the frame for this, remember that
there is a bevel to be allowed for along the top, and that the height
of the frame at the front must be that of the back of a side frame.
(See Fig. 21.) The boards should be cut off to the same slope.
Twenty-four boards should exactly cover the back. Cut the tongue neatly
off that last fixed, and glue it into the groove of the first board.
The Front.—The frame requires careful making. For details of corner
joints see Fig. 16. The 3-inch faces of the top and bottom bars are
vertical. The upper side of the top bar is planed off to the angle of
the slope. (Fig. 23.)
[Illustration: FIG. 21. Detail of eaves.]
The Doors (Fig. 22).—These are the most difficult parts to construct,
as the braces which prevent the front edges dropping must be carefully
fitted in order to do their work properly.
The eleven outside boards of each door are held together by two 4-inch
ledges 6 inches away from the ends, and one 5-inch central ledge. Allow
a little “spare” on the boards for truing up. Boards and ledges having
been nailed together, lay a piece of 4 by 1-1/2 inch batten across the
ledges on the line which the braces will take, and mark the ledges
accordingly. Next mark on the batten the ends of the braces. These
project half an inch into the ledges, and terminate on the thrust side
in a nose an inch long, square to the edge of the brace. The obtuse
angle is flush with the edge of the ledge. Cut out the braces, lay them
in position on the ledges, and scratch round the ends. Chisel out the
notches very carefully, working just inside the lines to ensure the
brace making a tight fit. If there is any slackness at either end, the
brace obviously cannot carry the weight of the door until the door has
settled slightly, which is just what should be prevented. Therefore it
is worth while taking extra trouble over this part of the work.
[Illustration: FIG. 22.-Doors of shed.]
Cautions.—Don’t get the nose of the brace too near the end of the
ledge. Nail the boards on specially securely to the ledges near the
ends of the braces.
Fitting the Doors.—The doors should now be laid on the top of the frame
and secured to it by the four hinges. The long ends of these are held
by screws driven through the boards into the bearers; the cross pieces
are screwed to the uprights of the door frame. The doors when closed
should make a good but not tight fit with one another.