I.
A SAWING TRESTLE
A strong and stable sawing trestle is one of the most important
accessories of the carpenter’s shop, whether amateur or professional.
The saw is constantly being used, and for it to do its work accurately
the material must be properly supported, so that it cannot sway or
shift. Anybody who has been in the habit of using a wobbly chair or box
to saw on will be surprised to find how much more easily wood can be
cut when resting on a trestle like that illustrated by Figs. 1 to 3.
The top, _a_, of the trestle is 29 inches long, 4 inches wide, and 2
inches thick. At one end it has a deep nick, to serve much the same
purpose as the notched board used in fretworking; also to hold on edge
such things as doors while their edges are planed up. Pushed back
against the wall the trestle is then “as good as a boy.”
[Illustration: Fig I.—Leg of sawing trestle (left). Trestle seen from
above (right).]
The four legs are made of 2 by 2 inch stuff. To start with, the pieces
should be 24 inches long, to allow for the waste of cutting on the
angle.
Cutting the Notches.—Make four marks 7 inches from the four corners of
the top, set your bevel to an angle of 70 degrees (or cut an angle out
of a card with the help of a protractor), and lay a leg against each
mark in turn, the end projecting an inch or so above the top. Move the
leg about till it makes the proper angle at the mark, and draw a pencil
line down each side of the leg as close up as possible. Since the legs
may vary slightly in size, use each once only for marking, and number
it and the place to which it belongs.
Lines must now be drawn along the upper and under sides of the top,
parallel to and 3/4-inch from the edge, to complete the marking out of
the notches.
Cut just inside the side marks with a fine tenon saw, and remove the
wood between the cuts back to the top and bottom marks with a broad,
sharp chisel, making the surface of the cut as true and flat as you
can. Then “offer” the leg that belongs to the cut, its end projecting
an inch or so. If it won’t enter, bevel off the sides of the cut very
slightly till it will. A good driving fit is what one should aim at.
While the leg is in place, draw your pencil in the angles which it
makes with the top above and below, to obtain the lines AB, CD (Fig. 2,
a).
Bevelling the Legs.-The marking out of the bevels will be much
expedited if a template is cut out of tin or card. It should be just as
wide as the legs, and at a point 4 inches from one end run off at an
angle of 162 degrees from one edge. (See Fig. 2,b.)
[Illustration: FIG. 2.-Showing how to cut sloping joint for trestle
leg.]
Draw with a square a line, EEl, across what is to be the inside of the
leg. The template is applied to the end side of the leg and moved up
till its sloping edge occupies a position in which a perpendicular
dropped on to it from C is 1/2 inch long. Mark the line EF (Fig. 2, b)
and the perpendicular CG. The bevel is marked on the other side of the
leg, the, angle of the template being at E1 (Fig. 2, a) to guide the
saw, which is passed down through the leg just outside the marks till
in line with CD. The piece is detached by a cross cut along CG, CD.
This procedure, which sounds very complicated, but is really very
simple, and performed much more quickly than it can be described,
yields a leg properly bevelled and provided with a shoulder to take the
weight of the top.
[Illustration: Fig.3—End elevation of sawing trestle.]
The leg at the diagonally opposite corner is an exact replica of the
one first made; the other two are similar, but the direction of the
bevels is reversed, as will be evident after a little consideration.
When all the legs are ready, knock them into place, driving the
shoulders tight up against the top, and nail them on. The projections
are sawn off roughly and planed down flush with the top. Then affix the
tie C at each end, and plane its edges off neatly.
Truing the Legs.—Stand the stool on end, top flat against the wall.
Measure off a 20-inch perpendicular from the wall to the outside corner
of each of the two upper legs. (Fig. 3.) Lay a straightedge from mark
to mark, and draw lines across the legs. Reverse the trestle, and do
the same with the legs at the other end. Then turn the trestle on its
side, and draw lines on the other outside faces of the legs, using the
lines already made as guides. If the operation has been carried through
accurately, all eight lines will be in a plane parallel to the top. Cut
off the ends of the legs below the lines, and the trestle is finished.
II.
A JOINER’S BENCH.
After finishing his sawing trestle the reader may be willing to
undertake a larger job, the manufacture of a joiner’s bench—if he does
not already possess a good article—heavy and rigid enough to stand firm
under plane and hammer.
For the general design and detailed measurements he is referred to
Figs. 4 and 5, in which the dimensions of each part are figured
clearly. The length of 5 feet, width of 2 feet (exclusive of the back
E), and height of 2 feet 7-1/2 inches will be found a good average. If
the legs prove a bit long for some readers, it is a simple matter to
lay a plank beside the bench to raise the (human) feet an inch or two.
In order to give rigidity, the struts S1S2 of the trestles at the end
and the braces DD on the front are “halved” where they overlap the legs
and front so as to offer the resistance of a “shoulder” to any thrust.
[Illustration: Fig. 4.—Front elevation of Joiner’s bench]
Materials.—The cost of these will be, approximately: wood, 12s. 6d.;
[12 Shillings. 6 Pence] bench screw, 1s. 6d.; nails and screws, 1s.;
or 15s. in all. It is advisable to show the timber merchant the
specifications, so that he may cut up the stuff most economically.
If the wood is mill-planed before delivery a lot of trouble will be
saved, as no further finish will be required, except perhaps at the top
corners. In passing, one should remark that the boards used should be
of the widths and lengths given; while as regards thickness the figures
must be taken as nominal, as in practice the saw cut is included. Thus
a 1-inch board would, when planed, be only 7/8 to 15/16 inch thick,
unless the actual size is specified, in which case something extra
might be charged.
Construction.
The Trestles.—These should be made first. Begin by getting all the legs
of exactly the same length, and square top and bottom. Then cut off two
22-inch lengths of the 6 by 1 inch wood, squaring the ends carefully.
Two of the legs are laid on the floor, one end against the wall or a
batten nailed to the floor and arranged parallel to one another, as
gauged by the piece C, which is nailed on perfectly square to both, and
with its top edge exactly flush with the ends of the legs.
Next take the 3 by 1 inch wood for the struts, and cut off a piece 32
inches long. Two inches from one end of it make a cross mark with the
square, and from the ends of the mark run lines towards the end at an
angle of 45 degrees. Cut along these lines, and lay one of the edges
just cut up against C, and flush with the outer edge of L1 (Fig. 5).
Tack the strut on temporarily to both legs, turn the trestle over, and
draw your pencil (which should have a sharp point) along the angles
which the strut makes with the legs. This gives you the limits of the
overlaps. Detach the strut.
The marking-gauge now comes into use. Set it at 3/8 inch, and make
marks on the sides of the strut down to the limits, pressing the guide
against what will be the inner face of the board. The ends must now be
divided down along the gauge scratches to the limit mark with a tenon
or panel saw, the saw being kept on the inside of the mark, So that its
cut is included in the 3/8 inch, and a cross cut made to detach the
piece and leave a shoulder. The strut is “offered” again to the legs,
and a mark is drawn across the bottom parallel to the ends or the legs
for the final saw cut. Nail on the strut, pressing the legs well up
against the shoulders. Its fellow on the other side of the legs is
prepared in exactly the same manner; and the second trestle is a
duplicate of the first, with the exception that the directions of the
struts are reversed relatively to the C piece, to preserve the
symmetry—which, however, is not an important point.
[Illustration: FIG. 5.—End elevation of joiner’s bench.]
Back and Front.—The only operation to be performed on the front piece B
and the back G is the notching of them both on the inside faces at the
centre to take the ends of the bearer F, which performs the important
function of preventing any bending of the top planks. Lay the boards
together, top edges and ends level, and mark them at the same time. The
square is then used on the faces to give the limits for the notches,
which should be 1/4 inch deep and chiselled out carefully.
Draw cross lines with your square 3 inches from each end of both
pieces, on the inside, to show where the legs are to be. Bore holes in
the boards for the 3-inch screws which will hold them to the legs.
Attaching the Trestles.—Stand the trestles on their heads and lay the
back and front up to them, using the guide marks just drawn. A nail
driven part way in through one of the screw holes, and a batten tacked
diagonally on the DD lines, will hold a leg in position while the
screws are inserted. (Make sure that the tops of the legs and the top
edges of B and G are in the same plane.)
Affixing the Braces.—The braces DD, of 3 by 1 inch stuff, can now be
marked off and cut exactly down the middle to the limits of the
overlap. Screw on the braces.
The bearer F is next cut out. Its length should be such as to maintain
the exact parallelism of B with G, and the ends be as square as you can
cut them. Fix it in position by two 2-inch screws at each end.
The bench is now ready for covering. Begin with the front board, A1.
Bore countersunk holes for 3-inch screws over the centre of the legs
and half an inch from the front edge, 1 foot apart. Arrange Al with its
front edge perfectly flush with the face of B, and tack it in place by
nails driven through a couple of screw holes, and insert all the
screws. The middle board, A2, is laid up against it, and the back
board, A3 (bored for screws like the front board), against that. Screw
down A3.
You must now measure carefully to establish lines over the centres of
CC and F. Attach each board to each of these by a couple of screws. All
screws in the top of the bench are countersunk 1/8 inch below the
surface. Screw the ledge E, of 4 by 5/8 inch wood, on to the back of G,
with 2-1/2 inches projecting. This will prevent tools, etc., slipping
off the bench.
[Illustration: Fig. 6.—Perspective view of joiner’s bench]
The Vice.—This important accessory consists of an 8 by 2 by 15 inch
piece, V, a 2-inch diameter wooden bench screw and threaded block, and
a guide, F. (Note.—A 1-1/8-inch diameter wrought iron screw is very
preferable to the wooden, but its cost is about 4s. more.) V should be
tacked to B while the 2-inch hole for the bench screw is bored through
both with a centre bit, at a point 8 inches from the guide end on the
centre line of V. This hole must be made quite squarely to enable the
screw to work freely. If a 2-inch bit is not available, mark out a
2-inch ring and bore a number of small holes, which can afterwards be
joined by a pad-saw; and finish, the hole thus formed with a half-round
rasp. The threaded block for the screw is attached to the inner side of
H in the angle formed by the leg and the board A1. The guide F is then
fitted. This is pinned in to V, and the slides through B. If a
rectangular piece is used, cut the hole in V first; then screw V up
tightly, and mark B through V. It may be found more convenient to use a
circular piece, in which case the holes for it can be centre-bitted
through V and B in one operation. If after fitting V projects above A,
plane it down level.
The finishing touches are rounding off all corners which might catch
and fray the clothes, and boring the 3/4-inch holes, HH, for pegs on
which planks can be rested for edge planing.
For a “stop” to prevent boards slipping when being planed on the flat,
one may use an ordinary 2-inch wood screw, the projection of which must
of course be less than the thickness of the board planed. Many
carpenters employ this very simple expedient; others, again, prefer a
square piece of wood sliding stiffly through a hole in A1 and provided
on top with a fragment of old saw blade having its teeth projecting
beyond the side facing the work. The bench is countersunk to allow the
teeth to be driven down out of the way when a “clear bench” is
required.
Just a word of warning in conclusion. Don’t be tempted to nail the
parts together—with the exception of the trestle components—to save
trouble. The use of screws entails very little extra bother, and gives
you a bench which can be taken to pieces very quickly for transport,
and is therefore more valuable than a nailed one.
III.
A HANDY BOOKSTAND.
A bookstand of the kind shown in Fig. 7 has two great advantages:
first, it holds the books in such a position that their titles are read
more easily than when the books stand vertically; second, it can be
taken to pieces for packing in a few moments, as it consists of but
four pieces held together by eight removable wedges. We recommend it
for use on the study table.
Oak or walnut should preferably be chosen as material, or, if the maker
wishes to economize, American whitewood or yellow pine. Stuff 1/4 inch
(actual) thick will serve throughout if the stronger woods are used;
3/8 inch for the shelf parts in the case of whitewood or pine.
The ends (Fig. 8) are sawn out of pieces 5-1/2 by 10 inches, and nicely
rounded off on all but the bottom edge, which is planed flat and true.
The positions for the holes through which the shelf eyes will project
must be marked accurately, to prevent the stand showing a twist when
put together. The simplest method of getting the marks right is to cut
a template out of thin card and apply it to the two ends in turn, using
the base of each as the adjusting line. Fret-saw the holes, cutting
just inside the lines to allow for truing up with a coarse file.
[Illustration: Fig. 7.—Perspective view of bookstand.]
The shelves a and b are 15 inches long, exclusive of the lugs c, c, c,
c, and 4-1/2 and 4-3/4 inches wide respectively. As will be seen from
Fig. 8, b overlaps a. Both have their top edges rounded off to prevent
injury to book bindings, but their bottom edges are left square.
As the neatness of the stand will depend largely on a and b fitting
closely against the sides, their ends should be cut out and trued
carefully, special attention being paid to keeping the shoulders
between and outside the lugs in a straight line. The wedge holes in c,
c, c, c measure 1/2 by 1/4 inch, and are arranged to be partly covered
by the sides, so that the wedges cannot touch their inner ends. (See
Fig. 9.) This ensures the shelves being tightly drawn up against the
sides when the wedges are driven home.
[Illustration: Fig. 8.—End elevation of bookstand.]
The wedges should be cut on a very slight taper of not more than half
an inch in the foot run, in order to keep their grip. Prepare a strip
as thick as the smaller dimension of the holes, 3/8 inch wide at one
end, and 7/8 inch wide at the other. Assemble the parts and push the
piece through a hole until it gets a good hold, mark it across half an
inch above the hole, and cut it off. Then plane the strip down parallel
to the edge that follows the grain until the end will project half an
inch beyond the lug next fitted. Mark and cut off as before, and repeat
the process until the eight wedges are ready in the rough. Then bevel
off the outside corners and smooth them—as well as the rest of the
woodwork—with fine glass paper.
Shelves and sides should be wax-polished or given a coat or two of
varnish.
[Illustration: Fig. 9. Plan or bookstand shelf.]
Don’t drive the wedges in too tight, or yon may have to lament a split
lug.
If the stand is to be used for very heavy books, or the shelves are
much longer than specified here, it is advisable to bring the angle of
the shelves down to the bottom of the standards, to relieve the shelves
of bending strain at the centre; or to use stouter material; or to
unite the shelves at two or three points by thin brass screws inserted
through holes drilled in the overlapping part.
IV.
A HOUSE LADDER.
The preparation and putting together of the parts of a ladder having
round, tapered rungs let into holes in the two sides is beyond the
capacity of the average young amateur; but little skill is needed to
manufacture a very fairly efficient substitute for the
professionally-built article—to wit, a ladder of the kind to which
builders apply the somewhat disparaging adjective “duck.”
The rungs of such a “duck” ladder are merely nailed to the outside if
the ladder is required for temporary purposes only; but as we are of
course aiming at the construction of a thing made to last, we shall go
to the trouble of “notching-in” each rung (see Fig. 10), so that the
sides shall take the weight directly, and the nails only have to keep
the rungs firmly in position. The objection to notching-in is that it
reduces the strength of the ladder, which is of course only that of the
wood between the bottom of the notches and the plain side. Therefore it
is necessary to have sides somewhat deeper than would be required for a
centrally-runged ladder; which is pierced where the wood is subjected
to little tension or compression.
[Illustration: Fig. 10—House ladder and details of letting in a rung]
Materials.—The length of the ladder will decide what the stoutness of
the sides should be. For a ladder about 12 feet long, such as we
propose to describe, larch battens 3 by 1-1/8 inches (actual) in
section and free from knots, especially at the edges, will be
sufficiently strong to carry all reasonable weights without danger of
collapse. But be sure to get the best wood obtainable. The rungs may be
of 2 by 1 inch stuff, though 2 by 3/4 inch will suffice for the upper
half-dozen, which have less wear, and are shorter than those below.
The rungs are 10 inches apart (Fig. 10), centre to centre. The distance
may be increased to a foot, Or even more if weight-saving is an object.