Louis; when, notwithstanding his ill health, he left Cape Girardeau
immediately, as {184} did Captain Bell, both intending to prosecute,
without delay, their journey to the seat of government.
About the 1st of November, Messrs. Say, Graham, and Seymour had so far
recovered their health, as to venture on undertaking a voyage to New
Orleans on their way home. They left Cape Girardeau in a small boat,
which they exchanged at the mouth of the Ohio for a steam-boat about
to descend the Mississippi. Mr. Peale, who had escaped the prevailing
sickness, accompanied them, leaving only Dr. James and Lieut. Swift
with the steam-boat Western Engineer at Cape Girardeau. Lieut.
Swift had received instructions, as soon as the water should rise
sufficiently, to proceed with the boat to the Falls of Ohio, where it
was to remain during the winter.
Early in November, the frosts had been so severe at Cape Girardeau,
that the leaves were fallen, and the country had assumed the aspect
of winter. On the 9th, at four P.M. the shock of an earthquake was
felt. The agitation was such as to cause considerable motion in the
furniture and other loose articles in the room where we were sitting.
Before we had time to collect our thoughts and run out of the house,
it had ceased entirely; we had therefore no opportunity to form an
opinion of its direction. Several others occurred in the time of our
stay at the Cape, but they all happened at night, and were all of short
duration. "Shakes," as these concussions are called by the inhabitants,
are in this part of the country extremely frequent, and are spoken of
as matters of every day occurrence.[74] Several houses in and about
Cape Girardeau have formerly been shaken down, forests have been
overthrown,[75] and other considerable changes produced by their {185}
agency. Their effect upon the constantly varying channels and bars in
the bed of the Mississippi must doubtless be very important.
These concussions are felt through a great extent of country, from the
settlements on Red river and the Washita to the falls of Ohio, and from
the mouth of the Missouri to New Orleans. Their great extent, and the
very considerable degree of violence with which they affect not only
a large portion of the valley of the Mississippi, but of the adjacent
hilly and mountainous country, appear to us most clearly to indicate
that they are produced by causes far more efficient and deep-seated
than "the decomposition of beds of lignite or wood-coal situated
near the level of the river, and filled with pyrites," according to
the suggestion of Mr. Nuttall.[76] It has been repeatedly asserted,
that volcanic appearances exist in the mountainous country between
Cape Girardeau and the hot springs of the Washita, particularly
at the latter place; but our observation has not tended to confirm
these accounts; and Hunter and Dunbar, who spent some time at the hot
springs, confidently deny the existence of any such appearances in
that quarter. Reports have been often circulated, principally on the
authority of hunters, of explosions, subterraneous fires, blowings and
bellowings of the mountains, and many other singular phenomena, said
to exist on the Little Missouri of Washita, and other parts of the
region of the hot springs; but it is easy to see that the combustion
of a coal-bed, or some other affair of equal insignificance, may have
afforded all the foundation on which these reports ever rested. But
though no traces of existing or of extinct volcanoes should be found
in any part of the country affected by these earthquakes, it is not
therefore necessary to go in search of some cause unlike those which in
{186} other parts of the earth are believed to produce similar effects.
On the morning following the earthquake above mentioned, a fall of snow
commenced, and continued during the day; towards evening it fell mixed
with hail and rain, and covered the ground to the depth of about six
inches.
The rain continued for some days, the mercury ranging from 40° to 48°
and 50°, a temperature and state of weather as little grateful to an
ague-shaken invalid as any weather can be. The snow which fell on
the 10th remained on the ground until the 15th, when it had nearly
disappeared, and a succession of bright days followed. The air was
now filled with countless flocks of geese, sandhill cranes, and other
migratory birds on their passage to the south. The migrations of the
ardea canadensis afford one of the most beautiful instances of animal
motion we can any where meet with. These birds fly at a great height,
and never in a direct line, but wheeling in circles, they appear to
float without effort on the surface of an aerial current, by whose
eddies they are borne about in an endless series of revolutions. Though
larger than a goose, they rise to so great an elevation as to appear
like points, sometimes luminous, and sometimes opaque, as they happen
to intercept or reflect the rays of the sun; but never so high but
their shrill and incessant clamours may be heard.
While at Cape Girardeau we were induced, from motives of curiosity,
to attend at the performance of some ceremonies by the negroes, over
the grave of one of their friends, who had been buried a month since.
They were assembled round the grave, where several hymns were sung.
An exhortation was pronounced by one, who officiated as minister of
the gospel, who also made a prayer for the welfare of the soul of the
deceased. This ceremony, we are told, is common among the negroes in
many parts of the {187} United States: the dead are buried privately,
and with few marks of attention; a month afterwards the friends
assemble at the grave, where they indulge their grief, and signify
their sorrow for the deceased, by the performance of numerous religious
rites.
On the 22d of November, having been informed the Ohio had risen several
inches, Lieut. Swift determined to leave Cape Girardeau with the
steam-boat on the following day. Dr. James had so far recovered as to
be able to travel on horseback; and immediately set forward on the
journey to the Falls of Ohio, intending to proceed by the nearest route
across the interior of Illinois.
The immediate valley of the Mississippi, opposite the little village
of Bainbridge, ten miles above Cape Girardeau, is four miles wide,
and exclusive of the river, which washes the bluffs along the western
side. Upwards, it expands into the broad fertile and anciently populous
valley, called the American bottom; on the east, it is bounded by
abrupt hills of a deep argillaceous loam, disclosing no rocks, and
rather infertile, bearing forests of oak, sweet gum, tupelo, &c.
The road crossing the hilly country between the Mississippi and the
village of Golconda on the Ohio passes several precocious little towns,
which appear, as is often the case in a recently settled country, to
have outgrown their permanent resources. The lands, however, are not
entirely worthless; and on some of the upper branches of the Cache, a
river of the Ohio, we passed some fertile bottoms, though they are not
entirely exempt from inundation at the periodical floods. The compact
limestone about Golconda, near the sources of Grand Pierre creek,
and near Covedown rock, contains beautiful crystals of Derbyshire
spar; sulphuret of lead also occurs in that vicinity, as we have been
informed, in veins accompanying the fluate of lime.[77]
On arriving at Golconda, Dr. James had become so much indisposed, by
a recurrence of fever and {188} ague, as to be unable to proceed.
This circumstance, with others, induced Lieut. Swift to leave the
steam-boat, for the winter, at the mouth of Cumberland river. After a
delay of a few days, he continued his journey towards Philadelphia on
horseback.[78]
* * * * *
Having thus traced the progress of the exploring party to their final
separation, we shall add some discussions concerning the countries
west of the Alleghany mountains, of a more general description than
deemed compatible with the humble style of a diary, which we thought
convenient to be retained in our narrative.
The following paper, from Major Long, comprises, moreover, the results
of many observations made on various journeys previous to those
detailed in the foregoing account, and in parts of the country remote
from those traversed by the expedition.
FOOTNOTES:
[48] For the following topics mentioned in this chapter, see Nuttall's
_Journal_, in our volume xiii: William Darby (note 181), Caddo Indians
(103), Little Rock (123).--ED.
[49] Ellicott; 31° 1´ 15˝, according to M. de Ferrer.--JAMES.
_Comment by Ed._ 30° 58´ 50.28˝ is correct.
[50] The settlement of Avoyelles occupied an island of prairie, about
forty miles in circumference, rising out of the swamp thirty or forty
feet above high water. The name was that of a small tribe of Indians
found there by the early French. Acadians went thither in considerable
numbers during the last fifteen years of the eighteenth century. In
1803 the inhabitants were a mixture of French, Irish, and Americans,
settled around the edge of the prairie, near the woods, their houses
facing the open land, which they cultivated. A decade later the
population was estimated at four hundred and fifty whites and a hundred
and fifty slaves.--ED.
[51] "The south side of this river, quite to the rapid part, is
entirely different from the opposite side; it is something higher,
and rises in proportion as it approaches the height I have mentioned;
the quality is also very different. This land is good and light, and
is disposed to receive all the culture imaginable, in which we may
assuredly hope to succeed. It naturally produces fruit trees and vines
in plenty; it was on that side muscadine grapes were found. The back
parts have neater woods and meadows, intersected with tall forests. On
that side the fruit trees of the country are common, and above all, the
hickory and walnut trees, which are sure indications of good soil." _Du
Pratz'_ Louisiana, p. 166.--JAMES.
_Comment by Ed._ This reference is to the second London edition (1764).
[52] Sibley's report on Red River says of the settlement at the rapids
(1803), "No country whatever can exhibit handsomer plantations." See
_American State Papers_, "Indian Affairs," i, p. 726. There were also
at that time a few settlers on the north side of the river between the
rapids and Avoyelles, but none on the south side which was more subject
to inundation.--ED.
[53] Freeman's MS. Report to W. Dunbar, esq.--JAMES.
[54] Compare Sibley's description of this portion of the river in 1803
(see reference, _ante_, note 52). Rigolet means a little irrigation
ditch, giving the name of the east channel the curious meaning,
Little Ditch of the Good God. This is now the main channel, and is
sometimes called Red River; its upper mouth is four or five miles
above Natchitoches, instead of below, as stated in the text. The other
channel was also called Cane River. In 1803, there was a settlement
of forty families on this branch, about twenty-four miles above the
end of the island. Near this point the river again divides, forming
Isle Brevel, so called from the first settler upon it. The branch west
of this island is called Old, or False, River. The other, or middle,
branch was, in 1803, called Little River, its banks being thickly
settled; it is now considered as the upper portion of Cane River. The
upper junction of Cane and False rivers was near Natchitoches. Thus
it appears that each channel has borne, or bears, two names: the east
channel is Rigolet du Bon Dieu, or Red River; the middle one at Isle
Brevel is Cane, or Little River; and the west one Old, or False River;
while at the lower island it is Old or Cane River.
Natchitoches, now chief town of the parish of the same name, was
established in 1714, by St. Denys, as a mission station; a fort was
erected in 1717, under Governor Bienville.--ED.
[55] In 1700 M. de Bienville ascended the Red river to the country
of the Natchitoches and Yatassee Indians, but could find no Spanish
establishments in that quarter. The Yatassee village was about forty
miles north-west of the present town of Natchitoches, in the settlement
of Bayou Pierre.
_Darby, on the Authority of La Harpe._--JAMES.
_Comment by Ed._ See Margry, _Découvertes et Établissements des
Français_, vi, pp. 241-307.
[56] The official report of the expedition under Captain Sparks was
never published, and the account here given is the only one extant,
drawn from the notes of the party. Richard Sparks, the leader, first
saw service in the "levies of 1791," under Gen. Arthur St. Clair. The
next year he was made captain in the infantry, and later promoted to
major (1806) and lieutenant-colonel (1807). During the War of 1812-15
he was colonel in the Second Infantry; at the close of the war he
received an honorable discharge and died the same year (1815).
Freeman's given name was probably Thomas, but nothing more is known
about him. "Lieutenant Humphrey" was probably Enoch Humphreys, of
Connecticut, who entered the First Artillerists and Engineers in 1801
as lieutenant. He became an artillery captain in 1809, and remained
in this branch of the service until his death in 1825, being breveted
major for gallant conduct at New Orleans in 1814.--ED.
[57] John Joseph Duforest, of Louisiana, was an ensign in the Second
Infantry in 1805, was promoted to a second lieutenancy in 1806, and two
years later became first lieutenant. His death occurred in 1810.--ED.
[58] Daniel Parker (1782-1846) graduated from Dartmouth (1801), became
chief clerk in the war department (1810), and then brigadier-general,
adjutant and inspector-general (1814). Later, for one year (1821), he
was paymaster-general. Meanwhile he published a register of the army
(Washington, 1816). In 1841 he returned to his former position of chief
clerk in the war department.--ED.
[59] The Natchitoches (whence the name of the town) were a small tribe
of Caddo stock, who dwelt on upper Red River. In 1805 only thirty souls
remained of this tribe; they lived in a village on Black Lake, north of
Natchitoches. A hundred years earlier, they were said to have numbered
six hundred men.
The Paskagoulas (Pascagoulas) were one of several small tribes of
Siouan stock, who lived south of the main territory of the family,
near the gulf. In 1805 they had a village on Red River, about sixty
miles below Natchitoches, whither they had come from Pascagoula River,
Mississippi.--ED.
[60] John Sibley had been a surgeon in the Revolutionary War. His
account of Red River (1806) has been cited in foregoing notes. He was
the father of George C. Sibley (see Bradbury's _Travels_, in our volume
v, note 36).--ED.
[61] Nacogdoches, seat of the Texas county of the same name, was
established in 1716, as a Spanish mission post; the mission Indians
were removed to San Antonio in 1772. Spanish garrisons occupied
Nacogdoches for many years, and kept watch on the movements of the
French across the border, at Natchitoches, and, after the cession of
Louisiana to the United States, of the Americans in that quarter.--ED.
[62] Lake Bistineau.--JAMES.
[63] Coshatta, _Darby, &c._--JAMES.
_Comment by Ed._ The Coshatta tribe was of Muskogee stock; they came
to Louisiana at the close of the eighteenth century from east of the
Mississippi, and established their chief village on Sabine River, about
eighty miles south of Natchitoches; at that time they numbered about
two hundred souls.
[64] The accumulation of drift known as the Great Raft began near
Campti, in Natchitoches Parish, and extended a hundred miles or more up
the river. At places the drift was covered with soil which supported
a considerable growth, including even small trees; it is said that
the river might at some places be crossed without the water beneath
being seen; while at other places the drift was open, sometimes for
several miles. The national government began the work of removing the
obstruction in 1832, and by 1840 had cleared the river. Constant labor
has been required, however, to keep the channel open; neglect has
repeatedly resulted in the formation of new rafts many miles in length.
As intimated in the text, it was possible to pass around the raft by
water, through the side bayous and lakes connected with the river.--ED.
[65] The Caddo Indians here mentioned were an important tribe of the
stock of the same name. In 1806 their home was on Caddo Lake, which
lies partly in Caddo County, Louisiana, and partly in Texas. The tribe
went thither about 1790 from north-eastern Texas, where they had dwelt
from time immemorial.--ED.
[66] The spot where Sparks's party was stopped must have been near
Little River (of the North); the account is too indefinite to permit
an exact statement. In this same year, Pike and his companions were
arrested on the upper Rio Grande and taken to Santa Fé. Several recent
events had aroused the apprehension of the Spanish authorities; in
1801 one Nolan had led a filibustering expedition into Texas, and
Burr's conspiracy aimed, probably, at the Spanish dominions, had not
yet been forgotten. Information of the proposed expeditions under Pike
and Sparks had reached the Spanish officials before the Americans had
completed their preparations, and Pike found upon reaching the Pawnee
village on Republican River that a large body of Spanish cavalry had
preceded him in visiting the tribes of the Great Plains. During his
detention by the Spanish, he learned that this party had been sent out
primarily to intercept and turn back both American explorers. They
themselves, however, were not only to make explorations within the
bounds of the United States, but to renew their former friendship with
the Indians in our territories.--ED.
[67] Under the French régime, a fort was built near the old Caddo
village, and several families settled in the vicinity. This was
known as the "upper settlements;" but about 1780 the French families
abandoned the location and removed to Campti, a few miles above
Natchitoches. For many years thereafter Campti was the "upper
settlement;" but in 1818 there were twenty families at the mouth of the
Kiamichi and a dozen more a few miles below, at Pecan Point.--ED.
[68] Little River of the South, so called to distinguish it from Little
River (of the North), is the present Sulphur Fork of Red River. Its
course is eastward, parallel to the Red, into which it falls in Miller
County, Arkansas. For Little River, see _ante_, note 42. Notes on the
Poteau and Kiamichi are given in Nuttall's _Journal_, our volume xiii
(169, 177).--ED.
[69] Boggy (Vaseux) River rises in the Shawnee Hills, very near the
main stream of the Canadian, and flows south-east; its mouth is
opposite Lamar County, Texas. Blue River is a smaller stream; its
course is parallel to that of Boggy River, and its mouth is near the
ninety-sixth meridian. The False Washita has already been described
(preceding volume, note 66), and the sources of Red River indicated
(_ibid._, note 52).--ED.
[70] Rio Rojo (Red River) was the Spanish name for the upper
Canadian--the portion marked Rio Mora on the map--but Long's party
struck the Canadian considerably to the east of this portion (see
preceding volume, note 71). However, the same name was commonly given
to other streams. Humboldt's conjecture was that the Pecos (which had
not been explored to its mouth) was the upper course of Red River
of Natchitoches. See _Political Essay on the Kingdom of New Spain_
(London, 1811), ii, p. 313. The head-waters of the Pecos lie between
the upper Canadian and Santa Fé.--ED.
[71] Thuja occidentalis.--JAMES.
[72] P. 239 [London edition, 1774].--JAMES.
[73] This missionary "family" consisted of nine men, eight women, and
four children, sent out by the United Foreign Missionary Society under
the leadership of a clergyman named Vaill. The illness of most of the
party was nothing worse than ague and bilious fever; but two of the
young women were attacked by typhus fever, and died a few days after
reaching Little Rock, where they arrived on July 23. Low water detained
the missionaries there until the following January; then they proceeded
up the Arkansas, and established Union Mission on the Neosho River,
twenty miles from the Arkansas.--ED.
[74] Several persons, passengers on board a steam-boat, ascending the
Mississippi, in 1820, went on shore near New Madrid. In one of the
houses which they entered they found a small collection of books: as
they were amusing themselves with the examination of these, they felt
the house so violently shaken, that they were scarce able to stand upon
their feet; some consternation was of course felt, and as several of
the persons were ladies, much terror was expressed; "Don't be alarmed,"
said the lady of the house, "it is nothing but an earthquake."--JAMES.
[75] The forest adjoining the settlement of Little Prairie, below New
Madrid, presents a singular scene of confusion; the trees standing
inclined in every direction, and many having their trunks and branches
broken.--JAMES.
[76] See Mississippi Navigator, p. 180.--JAMES.
_Comment by Ed._ See the account of the earthquake of 1811 in
Bradbury's _Travels_, in our volume v, pp. 204 _et seq._
[77] Golconda is the seat of Pope County, Illinois. Its origin as
Lusk's Ferry, dates from 1800. Grand Pierre is a small creek which
falls into the Ohio four miles above Golconda. On Cache River, see our
volume xiv, note 51.--ED.
[78] Most of the collections made on this expedition have arrived at
Philadelphia, and are in good preservation; they comprise, among other
things, more than sixty prepared skins of new or rare animals. Several
thousand insects, seven or eight hundred of which are probably new;
five hundred have already been ascertained to be so, and have been
described. The herbarium contains between four and five hundred species
of plants new to the Flora of the United States, and many of them
supposed to be undescribed.
Many of the minerals collected by Mr. Jessup were left at Smithland,
Kentucky. A suit of small specimens, adapted to the illustration of the
geology of the country from the Alleghenies to the Rocky Mountains, has
been received.
A collection of terrestrial and fluviatile shells was also made. Of
these more than twenty new species have already been described and
published. The organic reliquiæ collected on the voyage from Pittsburgh
to St. Louis have not as yet been received in Philadelphia, but are
daily expected.
The sketches, executed by Mr. Peale, amounted to one hundred and
twenty-two. Of these, twenty-one only were finished; the residue being
merely outlines of quadrupeds, birds, insects, &c.
The landscape-views, by Mr. Seymour, are one hundred and fifty in
number; of these, sixty have been finished.--JAMES.
A GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY TRAVERSED BY THE EXPLORING
EXPEDITION
BEING THE COPY OF A REPORT OF MAJOR LONG TO THE
HON J. C. CALHOUN, SECRETARY OF WAR
Dated Philadelphia, Jan. 20. 1821.
SIR,
In obedience to your order of the 28th of November, I have the honour
to submit the following report, embracing a concise account of the
movements of the exploring expedition under my command, and a general
description of the country explored by them. Although there may be no
very striking incidents to embellish the narration, yet the diversity
of scenery presented to the view, the changes in the character and
aspect of the country, and the variety of other interesting matter in
the several departments of natural science, which have been subjects of
particular attention, cannot fail to awaken a lively interest in the
minds of an enlightened community, inasmuch as a discussion of them
must lead to a knowledge of the condition and natural resources of a
large portion of the United States' territory. But as the principal
object contemplated in this report is a general view of the topography
of the country, the subjects of description will be such only as are
thought to be illustrative of such a view.
{190} MOVEMENTS OF THE EXPEDITION
The expedition embarked on board of the United States' steam-boat,
Western Engineer, at Pittsburgh, on the 4th of May, 1819. Their outfit
consisted of such books, instruments, stationery, &c. (a return of
which is on file in the engineer department), together with such
provisions, &c. as were deemed requisite at the commencement of their
voyage. They proceeded down the Ohio river, making such observations
and surveys along its banks as are calculated to augment the stock of
intelligence already acquired in relation to that part of the country.
This part of their route having been previously traversed by gentlemen
of science, who have judiciously arranged and generously promulgated
the intelligence they have collected, but little matter of a novel or
interesting character could be expected. Yet an investigation of the
numerous organic remains, and mineral productions, discoverable on the
Ohio throughout its whole extent, together with such an examination of
the country as is requisite to a general description of its aspect,
soil, and vegetable productions, were considered as objects meriting
their attention in the discharge of their several duties.
On arriving at the confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi, they
proceeded up the latter to the Missouri, and thence up the river
last mentioned to the Council Bluffs, improving every opportunity of
extending their researches in the various branches of natural science.
At the time of their arrival at the Council Bluffs, the season was so
far spent, that it was deemed inexpedient to proceed further till the
ensuing season; and the boat was accordingly dismantled, and moored
in a safe harbour, and quarters constructed for the accommodation
of the party during the then approaching winter. Being located in a
situation central to a variety of Indian tribes and nations, inhabiting
the neighbouring country, {191} they were enabled to acquire a pretty
extensive acquaintance with the manners, customs, and character of
the natives in that quarter. Surveys of the surrounding country were
made; observations for determining the latitude, longitude, magnetic
variation, dip, &c. were taken; the changes of the weather, and other
meteorologic phenomena were recorded; and such other duties performed,
as pertained to the pursuits of the expedition.
On the voyage up the Missouri, a party was detached from the steam-boat
at Fort Osage, with instructions to proceed across the country by land,
to the Konzas village, and thence to the villages of the Pawnees,
on the river Platte, and to return on board again at the Council
Bluffs. This excursion was undertaken with a view of prosecuting the
business of the expedition. The party had accomplished part of the
duties assigned them, when they were met near the Konzas village by
a war-party of the Republican Pawnees, and robbed of their horses,
baggage, &c., which compelled them to give up the further prosecution
of their enterprize. This misfortune rendered it necessary for them
to change their route, and shape their course for the Missouri, which
they reached at Cow Island, having obtained much useful information
concerning the country through which they passed, and the natives
inhabiting it.
On my return to the wintering post of the expedition, to which we had
given the name of Engineer Cantonment, I pursued a course north of the
Missouri, from near its mouth to that place, taking sketches of the
country, preparatory to a topographical delineation. The observance
of courses, distances, magnetic variations, &c. were objects of our
particular care and attention in all the movements of the expedition.
On my arrival at the cantonment, which I reached on the 27th of May
last, preparations were made, with all convenient despatch, for
reconnoitring the country {192} westward to the Rocky Mountains, in
conformity to your order of the 28th of February, 1820. The steam-boat
was ordered on topographical duties under the command of Lieut. Graham,
who proceeded with her down the Missouri to St. Louis, thence up the
Mississippi to the De Moyen rapids, and thence down the river to Cape
Girardeau, taking such observations and sketches on the voyage as are
requisite in constructing a chart of that part of the river and the
adjacent country.
Having made the necessary arrangements, and rendered our outfit,
for the western tour, as complete as circumstances would permit, we
commenced our march on the 6th of June, all in good health, except Mr.
Say, the zoologist for the expedition. It may not be improper here to
give a list, exhibiting the names of the persons composing the party,
and the several capacities in which they served.
S. H. Long, Major I. Engineers, commanding Expedition.
J. R. Bell, Capt. Lieut. Artillery, Journalist.
W. H. Swift, Lieut. Artillery, Assistant Topographer and
Commanding Guard.
T. Say, Zoologist, &c.
E. James, Botanist, Mineralogist, and Surgeon.
T. R. Peale, Assistant Naturalist.
S. Seymour, Landscape-painter, &c.
Joseph Bijeau, Guide and Interpreter.
Abraam Ledoux, Farrier and Hunter.
Stephen Julien, Interpreter.
H. Dougherty, Hunter.
Zachariah Wilson, Baggage Master.
J. Duncan, J. Oakley, and D. Adams, Engagees.
John Sweney, Private of the Corps of Artillery.
Joseph Verplank, William Parish, Robert Foster, Mordecai
Nowland, Peter Barnard, and Charles Myers, Privates of the
Rifle Regiment, Pack-horsemen and Hunters.
{193} The number of horses and mules, provided for the use of the
party, was thirty-four, including several that were the property of
individuals; so that we were able to have all of the party mounted,
and also a sufficient number of horses besides, for the transportation
of baggage. In addition to arms, ammunition, a small quantity of
provisions and other necessaries for the tour, our outfit embraced a
small supply of Indian goods for presents, not exceeding £150 in value.
The instruments for astronomical and other observations, comprehended
in our outfit, were very limited, both in number and variety. The
mode of transporting them that we were compelled to adopt was by no
means suited to the conveyance of delicate instruments, or such as
required much space in packing. We, however, took all belonging to the
expedition that were in good repair and of a portable construction. The
principal were the following: one sextant of five inches radius; one
snuff box sextant; one mercurial horizon with a glass frame; one patent
lever watch of an excellent quality; three travelling compasses; one
measuring tape; two thermometers; and some few articles of apparatus
for the use of the naturalists.
Every man being accoutred with a gun, shot-pouch, and powder-horn, and
most of them with pistols, the exploring party proceeded westwardly to
the Pawnee villages, situated on a branch of the Platte called the Loup
Fork, thence southwardly to the Platte, and thence westwardly along
the valley of the Platte, to the place where it issues from the Rocky
Mountains. Having examined the mountains at that place, and finding
the country too hilly and broken to penetrate with horses within their
range, we shaped our course southwardly along their base, taking
occasion to ascend the peaks and spurs of the mountains whenever a
favourable opportunity presented, for the purpose of ascertaining their
geological character, and that of the vegetables growing upon them.
{194} On arriving at the Arkansa Captain Bell was detached with a small
party to ascend along the river as far as it was practicable to travel
with horses, and was able to ascend nearly thirty miles, when his
further progress was intercepted by the proximity of the hills to the
river.
Having descended the Arkansa about one hundred miles to the point
whence it was judged expedient to strike upon a southwardly course in
quest of the source of the Red river, the party was formed into two
detachments; the one to proceed down the Arkansa, under the direction
of Captain Bell, and the other to accompany me, with the view of
exploring the country southwardly to Red river, and thence down its
valley to the upper settlements thereon.
Captain Bell's party, with the exception of three soldiers last
mentioned in the foregoing list, who deserted on the march, arrived in
safety at Belle Point, their place of destination, having performed the
duties assigned them.
On separating from Captain Bell, the detachment under my direction
proceeded southwardly in view of the mountains about one hundred and
fifty miles, and arrived at a creek, having a southwardly course, which
we took to be tributary to Red river. Having travelled down its valley
about two hundred miles, we fell in with a party of Indians of the
nation of Kaskaias, or Bad-hearts, who gave us to understand that the
stream along which we were travelling was Red river. We accordingly
continued our march down the river several hundred miles further; when,
to our no small disappointment, we discovered that it was the Canadian
of the Arkansa, instead of Red river, that we had been exploring. Our
horses being nearly worn out with the fatigue of our long journey,
which they had to perform bare-footed, and the season being too far
advanced to admit of retracing our steps and going again in quest of
the source of Red river with the possibility of exploring it before the
commencement {195} of winter, it was deemed advisable to give over the
enterprize for the present, and make our way to the settlements on the
Arkansa. We were led to the commission of this mistake in consequence
of our not having been able to procure a guide acquainted with this
part of the country. Our only dependence, in this respect, was upon
Pike's map, which assigns to the head-waters of the Red river the
apparent locality of those of the Canadian. We continued our march,
therefore, and arrived at Belle Point on the Arkansa on the 13th
September, four days after the arrival of Captain Bell and his party.
Both parties suffered occasionally for the want of food and water;
but in general the game of the country yielded us an ample supply of
the former, and the watercourses, along which we for the most part
travelled, satisfied our demands for the latter. In regard to health
we were all highly favoured, except Mr. Say, who was more or less
indisposed throughout the tour. Some of the rest were occasionally
affected with slight indisposition.
It is a source of much regret that we had the misfortune to lose some
of our most valuable manuscripts by the desertion of three soldiers of
Captain Bell's party before mentioned. They deserted on the head-waters
of the Verdigrise river, within about two hundred miles of the upper
settlements of the Arkansa, taking with them three horses, the best
belonging to the party, four saddle-bags, containing wearing apparel
and other things belonging to the gentlemen of the party, besides the
following manuscripts: viz. Journal of the Tour, one number; Manners
and Customs of the Indians, one number; Zoological Description and
Remarks, one number; Vocabularies of Indian Languages, two numbers;
all by Mr. Say; and one number, containing Topographical Notes and
Sketches, by Lieutenant Swift. In addition to the above, the loss of
a few horses that died {196} on the march was the only accident or
misfortune worthy of notice that befell the expedition.
From Belle Point the exploring party proceeded across the country in a
north-eastwardly direction to Cape Girardeau, where they arrived on the
10th October, having been occupied a little more than four months in
the performance of the tour from the Council Bluff.
Throughout the whole excursion the attention of the gentlemen of
the expedition was constantly occupied upon the several subjects of
investigation which were deemed essential to a topographical and
scientific description of the country. In the discharge of our duties,
however, we laboured under many disadvantages for want of a sufficient
variety of instruments to furnish all the data proper and desirable
in giving an account of the geology and meteorology of the country.
A barometer would have been particularly useful; but out of three
belonging to the expedition two were rendered completely unfit for use,
partly by accident and partly by defects in their construction, and
the third was in such a condition that it was not deemed advisable to
take it with us, as it was not likely to remain fit for service but
for a short time only. In ascertaining the humidity of the atmosphere
a hygrometer would have been particularly useful, but it has never
been in my power to procure one that had any claim to being accurate.
In taking the various observations, however, that could be effected
by means of the few instruments we had with us, no pains were spared,
and no opportunities lost; those in particular, for the calculation
of latitude and longitude, were taken as often as it was thought
necessary, and with the utmost care and precision that circumstances
would permit.
On our arrival at Cape Girardeau we had contemplated to embark on
board of the Western Engineer, which was at that port ready for our
accommodation, {197} and sail for Louisville; but, learning that the
water of the Ohio was at that time too low to admit even the passage
of a boat drawing no more than fifteen or sixteen inches of water,
we were compelled to seek another mode of conveyance. Those of the
expedition who had been on duty during the two last seasons, being very
anxious to visit their homes, arrangements were accordingly made for
their return to Philadelphia, when they would be enabled to complete
and report the intelligence they had collected. Messrs. Say, Peale,
Seymour, and Lieut. Graham, being desirous to return by water, waited
the opportunity of taking a passage to New Orleans, and thence to
Philadelphia. Most of the curiosities collected by the expedition were
placed in the charge of Mr. Say, to be shipped for this place.
Lieut. Swift was left in command of the steam-boat and crew, with
instructions to proceed with them to Louisville as soon as the water
would permit. He was instructed to leave the boat in the care of the
pilot employed on board of her,--order her crew of United States'
soldiers to Newport, Kentucky, for winter quarters and subsistence, and
report in person at Philadelphia, for topographical duty.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY TRAVERSED BY THE EXPLORING EXPEDITION
Having given the foregoing brief account of the movements of the
expedition, we next proceed to a consideration of the region explored
by them, which embraces a very considerable portion of the immense
valley situated between the Alleghany and Rocky Mountains. The portion
of this valley to which their attention has been more particularly
directed, and relative to which intelligence has been collected, is
situated between thirty-five and forty-two degrees of north latitude,
and eighty and one hundred and six degrees of west longitude, embracing
an extent of {198} about five hundred miles in width from north to
south, and thirteen hundred miles in length from east to west. As might
be expected in a region of this extent, a great diversity of surface
is presented to view, exhibiting all the varieties, from the most
level and unbroken to the most rugged and mountainous aspect. The most
broken parts of this region are those situated along the Ohio, from
its source to its confluence with the Mississippi, and on the west of
the Mississippi, between Red river and the Arkansa, and between the
latter and the Missouri, extending westward about four hundred miles
from the Mississippi. The whole region, in a geological point of view,
is constituted of three varieties of formations, which characterize
the surface throughout; viz. transition, secondary, and alluvial. A
tract, however, of considerable extent, including the hot springs of
the Washita, and extending northwardly to the lead mines back of St.
Genevieve, has, by some, been considered as possessing a primitive
character; but it is believed that the rocks discoverable therein are
not sufficiently uniform to warrant such a decision. Moreover, an
insulated tract of primitive country, surrounded by others exhibiting
the most unequivocal marks of their being secondary, and at the same
time presenting a similar conformation in their general aspect, is such
an anomaly in natural science as requires more than ordinary proof
to be admitted. The particular tract under consideration is probably
analogous to other tracts within the region above specified, exhibiting
a surface characterized by primitive formation superincumbent upon
others of a secondary character.
In order to give a more distinct conception of the country or region
under consideration, it may be regarded as divisible into the following
sections: viz. 1st, the country situated between the Ohio river and
the Alleghany mountains; 2d, the country situated between the Ohio,
Mississippi, and the Lakes; {199} 3d, the country situated between the
Mississippi and Missouri rivers; 4th, the country situated between
the Red and Missouri rivers, west of the Mississippi and east of
the meridian of the Council Bluff; and 5th, the country between the
proposed meridian and the Rocky Mountains.
_Of the country situated between the Ohio river and the Alleghany
mountains_
The country on the south side of the Ohio, including the northerly
parts of Pennsylvania, Virginia, and Tennessee, together with the whole
of Kentucky, abounds in hills elevated, in the vicinity of the Ohio,
from four to eight hundred or a thousand feet above the water-table of
the river, and rising many hundred feet higher in the neighbourhood of
the Alleghany mountains. This section is watered by many streams of
considerable magnitude tributary to the Ohio, the most important of
which are the Monongahela, Kenhawa, Great Sandy, Licking, Kentucky,
Salt, Green, Cumberland, and Tennessee. These rivers are all navigable
for keel-boats, and many of them for steam-boats, some hundreds of
miles, during the boating season, which generally commences about
the 20th February and terminates early in June. Occasional freshets
contribute to render them navigable during short portions of the other
months of the year; but no reliance can be placed in periodical returns
of freshets, excepting those of the spring season. Upon these rivers
are extensive and valuable tracts of bottom land covered with deep and
heavy forests, and possessed of a soil adapted to the cultivation of
all the variety of vegetable products common to the various climates in
which they are situated. The highlands, back of the bottoms, although
variegated with hills and vallies alternating with each other in quick
succession, are generally possessed of a surface susceptible of being
tilled, and in many instances of a soil equally rich and prolific with
that of the bottoms. {200} In many parts of the country, however, the
hills are abrupt and stony to such a degree as renders them unfit for
tillage. The average produce per acre, upon the farming lands of this
section, may be estimated at the following rates: viz. Indian corn
or maize, forty bushels; wheat, twenty-two; rye, twenty-six; oats,
thirty-five; barley, thirty; tobacco, from twelve to fifteen cwt.,
and cotton from five to seven cwt. In regard to the products last
mentioned, viz. cotton and tobacco, it should be observed, that they
are cultivated only in the south-westerly parts of this section, and
that oats and barley are seldom cultivated except in the upper or
north-easterly parts.
Of the population of this section, if we except the towns and villages
and their immediate vicinities, as also a large portion of country
surrounding Lexington, Kentucky, and another of considerable extent,
including Nashville, Tennessee, it is yet but thinly inhabited,
affording room for a population far more numerous and more widely
diffused. There are extensive tracts of country between the Alleghany
mountains and the Ohio as yet almost entirely destitute of inhabitants,
the most considerable of which are situated in the vicinity of the
mountains, also the country generally between Tennessee river and the
Mississippi. As this section of country is pretty generally well known,
the foregoing outline of its topography will suffice.
_Of the country situated between the Ohio, Mississippi, and the Lakes_
The section of country next in the order proposed is situated north
of the Ohio river, and comprehends the states of Ohio, Indiana, and
Illinois. This section may be subdivided into three orders or varieties
of country, which merit a separate consideration, viz. the hilly, the
plain or rolling, and the valley country.
{201} The hilly country, like that south of the Ohio, exhibits a
very uneven surface, variegated with hills and dales irregularly
distributed, and occupying about one third part of the section under
consideration. This portion of the country is of an oblong shape,
bounded on the south-east by the Ohio river, and on the north-west
by an imaginary line, commencing on the Mississippi near the grand
tower, and running in a direction nearly E.N.E., till it approaches
the easterly part of Lake Erie. On the east it mingles with the hilly
country, comprehending the back parts of Pennsylvania and New York.
In short, the whole region situated between the Alleghany mountains
and the imaginary line above specified, or in other words, the country
through which the Ohio and its tributaries, except the Wabash, have
their courses, may be arranged under this head. The hills throughout
the whole are very similar in respect to their altitudes, multiplicity
and conformation.
Although the hilly country north of the Ohio is in many places rugged
and broken, yet a large proportion of it is susceptible of cultivation.
No high mountains are to be seen; the hills usually rise from six to
eight hundred feet above the common level, or about one thousand feet
above the water-tables of the principal rivers, and invariably present
rounded summits. Interspersed among the hills are numerous fine tracts
of arable land, which may in general be alleged of the valleys of
the numerous rivers and creeks by which the country is watered. The
soil upon the hills is generally productive, except where the surface
is rocky and the declivities abrupt, which is more particularly the
case in the vicinity of rivers, where the high lands are divided into
numerous knobs, being cut by deep ravines with abrupt and precipitous
banks.
The hilly country, having been generally esteemed more healthy than
either of the other varieties above mentioned, has acquired a more
numerous population {202} than the latter. As yet, however, no part
of this section has its full complement of inhabitants, if we except,
as before, the numerous towns and villages and their immediate
neighbourhoods. In regard to the products of agriculture, the same
remarks that have been made concerning the section south of the Ohio
are equally applicable to the country under consideration, with the
exception that cotton is cultivated only in the south-westerly extreme
of this section, and tobacco is raised for domestic uses only.
The most considerable rivers intersecting this section of country are
the Muskingum, Sciota, Big Miami, and Wabash, all of which, in the
spring season, are navigable two or three hundred miles from their
mouths.
The valleys of these rivers give place to many extensive and fertile
bottoms well adapted to cultivation, and producing the necessaries of
life in great abundance and variety.
The plain, or rolling country, is separated from that last under
consideration by the imaginary line above mentioned. It is not to
be inferred, however, that the junction of these two regions is
distinctly marked by any characters whatever by which the line can
be traced with precision, but that a gradual change of aspect is
observable in travelling from one variety of country to the other,
and that the general direction of the line indicated by this change
is that specified above. The other boundaries of this variety are the
Mississippi on the west, and the Lakes Erie and Michigan, and the Fox
and Wisconsan rivers on the north and east. This variety of country,
although not entirely destitute of hills, is almost throughout its
whole extent possessed of an undulating or rolling surface, rising into
broad and gentle swells in some parts, and subsiding into extensive
flats or plains in others. The valleys of numberless watercourses,
bounded by abrupt bluffs or banks, afford some diversity to its aspect;
and the bluffs in {203} particular of the principal streams, being cut
by numerous ravines, contribute in many places to give the surface a
hilly and broken appearance. Although no part of this region can with
propriety be denominated hilly, especially when compared with the
portions of country above considered, yet upon the Wisconsan, Fox, the
head-waters of Rock and Melwakee rivers, the country is considerably
diversified with hills, or rather swells, and valleys. The only hills
worthy of particular notice, not only in this variety, but in the whole
section under consideration, are the Ocooch and Smokey mountains, which
are broad and elevated ridges rather than mountains. The former is
situated about twelve miles north of the Wisconsan, one hundred miles
above its mouth, and the latter about forty miles south of the portage
between the river just mentioned and Fox river of Green Bay. The rivers
of most note within this region are, the Wabash, above the hilly
country before described, the Kaskaskias, Illinois, Rock and Wisconsan,
tributary to the Mississippi; the Fox of Green Bay, the St. Joseph of
Lake Michigan, and the Maumee and Sandusky, tributary to Lake Erie.
These rivers are all navigable for boats of ten or fifteen tons burden
when swollen by spring freshets; but, during the greater part of the
summer and fall, they have not a sufficient depth of water for boats of
burden, and in winter their navigation is entirely obstructed by ice.
The spring freshets, consequent to the melting of the snow and ice,
usually take place in the month of March, the southerly streams being
open for navigation much earlier than those in the north.
The prairies, or champaigns, east of the Mississippi, are mostly
situated in this particular region, occupying at least three fourths
of it. These are waving or flat tracts of country, of greater or less
extent, separated from each other by narrow skirts of woodland situated
upon the margins of rivers and creeks. They are generally possessed of
a rich soil, yielding {204} a spontaneous growth of grass and herbage
of a luxuriant appearance. They are well adapted to the cultivation of
corn, wheat, rye, barley, oats, &c. of which they yield plentiful crops.
The prevailing opinion in regard to this portion of the country, viz.
that it is unhealthy, appears too well founded to admit of refutation.
The causes that contribute to render it so are very obvious: a large
proportion of the prairies are so flat that much of the water deposited
upon them by showers remains stagnant upon the surface till it is
carried off gradually by evaporation, which renders the atmosphere
humid and unhealthy. The vegetable mould of which the immediate surface
is composed, and the abundance of vegetables that spring and decay
upon the ground, contribute largely to render these exhalations more
deleterious. Although there are but few swamps or marshes, and very
rarely pools of stagnant water, to be met with in this region, still
the general water-table of the country is so little inclined, that
the streams, having but a moderate descent, are uniformly sluggish,
often exhibiting the appearance of a succession of stagnant pools. The
consequence is, that the vegetable matter they contain, instead of
being carried away by the strength of the current, is deposited upon
the bottoms and sides of the channels, and, while in its putrescent
state, serves to augment the quantity of noxious effluvia with which
the atmosphere is charged.
The population of this region, compared with its extent, is very
limited; and with the exception of a few villages the settlements are
very scattering. Large portions of it, embracing the northerly parts
of Indiana and Illinois, are almost entirely destitute of inhabitants.
Many parts of the country must remain uninhabited for many years to
come, on account of the scarcity of timber and other deficiencies,
such as the want of mill-seats, springs of water, &c. which are serious
blemishes in the character of a large {205} proportion of the country.
There are, however, numerous and extensive tracts within this region
possessed of a rich soil, and in other respects well adapted for
settlements, and presenting the strongest inducements for emigrants to
occupy them.
The country of the third order, agreeably to the subdivision above
given, viz. the valley country, is situated upon the rivers, and is
included within the hilly and plain country above described. The tracts
belonging to this order, usually denominated bottoms, are altogether
alluvial, being composed of alternate layers of sand and soil deposited
from the water of the rivers upon which they are respectively situated.
The alluvion thus deposited, having once constituted a part of the
surface of the countries drained by the watercourses tributary to
the rivers along which the deposit has been made, it will readily
be inferred that the fecundity of the valleys will in some measure
correspond with that of the countries whence their alluvion was
derived. Accordingly we find the bottoms more or less productive in
proportion to the fertility of the regions in which the rivers take
their rise and through which they flow. In the valley of the Ohio the
quality of the soil appears to improve from its source downwards. The
alluvion, of which it is composed is supplied by the Alleghany and
Monongahela rivers, which have their origin and courses in a hilly
and mountainous country, possessed in general of a sandy surface. The
alluvion, supplied by other tributaries entering the Ohio at various
points between its source and its mouth, is of a better quality, being
composed principally of argillaceous and calcareous earth, which are
prevailing ingredients in the soil of the country drained by those
tributaries.
It should be remarked, however, in relation to all the varieties of
alluvia, that they are partially composed of the fine particles of
decayed vegetable {206} matter with which the water drained from the
surface of the ground is invariably charged. This property in alluvial
deposits often prevails to such a degree as to render soils, apparently
sandy and sterile, remarkably productive. The alluvial bottoms
throughout the United States afford innumerable examples of this fact.
The fertilizing matter often exhibits itself in the slimy deposits left
upon the surface of the ground after an inundation.
The most extensive tract of valley country east of the Mississippi is
that situated within the bluffs of this river, usually denominated the
American Bottom, extending from the mouth of the Ocoa, or Kaskaskias
river, northwardly to that of the Missouri. This spacious bottom,
although at present elevated much above the range of the highest
freshets, is nevertheless alluvial. Its length along the Mississippi
is about eighty, and its average breadth about four miles. It is
generally destitute of a timber growth, except along the margin of
the river, upon which there is a skirt of woodland extending almost
from one end of the tract to the other. The alluvion of the American
Bottom is composed of the rich mud brought down by the turbid Missouri,
united with an abundance of vegetable matter yielded by the waters of
the upper Mississippi, which also characterizes the bottoms of this
extensive river from the Missouri downward to its mouth. Upon this
bottom are situated the town of Kaskaskias, the villages of Prairie de
Rocher, Harrison, Prairie de Pont, Cahokia and Illinois, together with
many other settlements.
On the same side of the river another large tract of valley land,
called the Mississippi Bottom, commences a few miles below the mouth
of the river Kaskaskias, and extends downwards along the Mississippi,
between fifty and sixty miles, having an average width of about
three miles. This tract, in regard {207} to soil and aspect, is of
a character similar to that of the American Bottom, except that the
former is more plentifully stocked with timber.
Besides these, there are numerous other bottoms on the Mississippi,
within the limits prescribed for this report, all of which are composed
of a rich alluvion. Those in particular situated below the confluence
of the Mississippi and Missouri are possessed of a soil exceedingly
luxuriant, being composed, as before observed, of the rich and
fertilizing mud deposited from the water of the Missouri. Most of them
are covered with deep and heavy forests of timber, accompanied with a
luxuriant undergrowth of vines, shrubs, grass and other herbage.
The bottoms of the Wabash, Kaskaskias, Illinois, and Rock rivers, are
also made up of a rich alluvion of sand and loam, containing a large
proportion of vegetable mould. Their surfaces, like those of the
Mississippi bottoms, are generally flat, exhibiting tabular elevations
or benches, formed by the washing of their rivers at different periods.
Large tracts of prairie land are to be met with upon them; but for the
most part the proportion of woodland is amply sufficient to supply the
adjacent country with timber and fuel.
The valleys of these rivers differ from that of the Ohio, not only
in having a greater width, but also in being limited on both sides by
bluffs stretching along their whole length, and maintaining nearly a
parallel direction; whereas the valley of the Ohio is bounded by abrupt
hills irregularly disposed, in some instances protruding far into the
valley like promontories, and in others retiring from the river, and
affording room for bottoms of pretty large extent. The Ohio bottoms are
uniformly clad in deep forests, except where they have been removed by
settlers; no prairies worthy of notice making their appearance.
{208} The valley country, from the circumstances already detailed in
allusion to the country constituting the second variety, is almost
without exception unhealthy. But at the same time it appears evident,
that this evil gradually decreases in proportion to the increase
of population, and the consequent advancement of agriculture; for
the products of the soil, which the bottoms yield in the greatest
profusion, instead of being left to wither and decay upon the surface,
are necessarily consumed in the subsistence of man and beast; in
consequence of which, one of the most fruitful causes of pestilential
effluvia, viz. vegetable putrefaction, is in a very considerable degree
removed.
The prevailing timber growth of the region comprehending the two
sections of country already described, is exhibited in the following
list of trees: viz. cotton-wood, willow, sycamore, black walnut, pecan,
coffee-tree, sweet and sour or black gum, red and water elm, hackberry,
blue and white ash, linden, yellow and white poplar, catalpa, black
and honey locust, buck-eye, bur oak, white and black oak, mulberry,
box, elder, white dogwood, sugar-tree, white maple, wild cherry, red
oak, hickory, iron-wood, and hop hornbeam. The foregoing constitute
the principal timber growth of the valley country, and are to be met
with more or less frequently throughout the whole of it. Red beech
is abundant in some parts of the valley of the Ohio, and in those of
many of its tributaries; it abounds also in the northerly parts of the
States of Ohio and Indiana. Post oak, black jack, and several other
varieties of the oak, also chesnut, white and shell bark, hickory,
persimmon, &c. are sometimes found in the bottoms, but are more
prevalent upon the hills and highlands. Pitch pine abounds in many
parts of Ohio and Indiana, and generally in the neighbourhood of the
Alleghany mountains. White pine occasionally {209} makes its appearance
in the northerly parts of Ohio. Red cedar is found in a great variety
of places throughout the country, but no where in great abundance.
The undergrowth of the several tracts of country above considered
includes a great variety of shrubs, vines, brambles, grass and other
herbage, to be enumerated in a botanical catalogue daily expected from
Dr. James.
The most valuable timber trees are the white, post, and bur oaks, the
white and blue ash, the shell bark hickory, the black walnut, the
cherry, the locust, chesnut, poplar, mulberry, beach, cotton-wood and
linden. The two last mentioned are seldom used where other kinds of
timber are to be had. The cotton-wood is not only the most abundant
timber-growth upon the bottoms, but is more widely diffused than any
other, and in many places is the only variety of forest trees that
make their appearance; which, however, is more particularly the case
westward of the Mississippi.
_Of the country situated between the Mississippi and Missouri rivers_
We next proceed to a consideration of the country west of the
Mississippi, and shall begin with that situated between this river and
the Missouri. This section contains no mountains, or indeed hills, of
any considerable magnitude. The term _rolling_ appears to be peculiarly
applicable in conveying an idea of the surface of this region, although
it is not entirely destitute of abrupt hills and precipices. The
aspect of the whole is variegated with the broad valleys of rivers and
creeks, and intervening tracts of undulating upland, united to the
valleys by gentle slopes. Its surface is chequered with stripes of
woodland situated upon the margins of the watercourses, and dividing
the whole into extensive parterres. If we {210} except those parts of
the section that are contiguous to the Mississippi and Missouri, at
least nineteen-twentieths of the country are completely destitute of a
timber-growth.
Within the valleys of these two rivers are extensive tracts of
alluvial bottom possessed of a rich soil. The bottoms of the Missouri
in particular are probably inferior to none within the limits of the
United States in point of fertility. Those of the Mississippi are very
rich, but do not exhibit symptoms of so great fecundity as the former.
The bottoms of both, on ascending the rivers, become more sandy, and
apparently less productive.
The bottoms of the Missouri are for the most part clad in a deep and
heavy growth of timber and under-brush, to the distance of about three
hundred and fifty miles above its mouth. There are, however, prairies
of considerable extent occasionally to be met with on this part of the
river. Higher up, the prairies within the river valley become more
numerous and extensive, till at length no woodlands appear, except
tracts of small size, situated at the points formed by the meanders of
the river.
The bottoms on the Upper Mississippi (that part of the Mississippi
situated above its confluence with the Missouri being distinguished by
this appellation) contain less woodland, in proportion to their extent,
than those of the Missouri. The prairies upon this river also become
more numerous and extensive as we proceed upward.
The interior of the country, situated between the valleys of these
rivers, presents, as before remarked, a rolling aspect, inclining to
hilly, and broken in some parts, but generally variegated with gentle
swells and broad valleys. Within this section are numerous small
rivers and creeks, with valleys of a character similar to those of the
Mississippi or Missouri, but not so fertile. These valleys expand to
a great width, compared with the magnitude of the streams upon which
they are situated, {211} but are not bounded by abrupt bluffs, like
those of the two rivers just mentioned. They are generally covered
with a luxuriant growth of grass and other herbage, and occasionally
present copses of woodland of moderate extent. The timber-growth of the
bottoms is similar to that of the Mississippi bottoms; cotton-wood,
blue and white ash, hackberry, black walnut, cherry, mulberry, hickory,
and several varieties of the oak, being the prevailing timber trees.
The hills or high lands are in some instances covered with a scrubby
growth of timber and furze, consisting of post oak, black jack, hazel,
green brier, &c. The soil of this section is probably equal, if not
superior, to that of any other tract of upland of equal extent within
our territory. But the scarcity of timber, mill-seats, and springs of
water,--defects that are almost uniformly prevalent,--must for a long
time prove serious impediments in the way of settling the country.
The population of this section of country is located almost exclusively
within the valleys of the Mississippi and Missouri, and in their
immediate neighbourhood, extending upwards along the former about one
hundred and sixty, and along the latter about three hundred and twenty
miles above their confluence. The most populous parts of the country
are the county of St. Charles, situated near the junction of these
two rivers; Cote Sans Dessein and its vicinity; that part usually
denominated the Boon's Lick country, extending from the mouth of Osage
river upward along the Miami to the river Chariton; and the country
on the Mississippi, including the Salt river settlements, which have
become numerous and pretty widely diffused.
Along the valleys, both of the Mississippi and Missouri, there are
still innumerable vacancies for settlement, holding forth inducements
for emigrants to occupy them, equally as strong as any of the positions
already occupied. The inhabitants of this {212} section have frequently
been visited by the prevailing epidemics of the western country,
which may be attributed, in all probability, to the same causes
that have been herein assigned in relation to the country east of
the Mississippi, which operate with equal force and effect upon the
inhabitants of this section.
_Of the country situated between the Missouri and Red rivers, west of
the Mississippi and east of the meridian of the Council Bluff._
Although no precise limits can be assigned as the western boundary
of this section, yet the meridian above proposed may be regarded as
a line of division between two regions differing in their general
character and aspect. It is not pretended that the immediate course of
the line is marked by any distinct features of the country, but that a
gradual change is observable in the general aspect of the two regions,
which takes place in the vicinity of the proposed line. The assumed
meridian is in longitude ninety-six degrees west nearly, and crosses
the Platte a few miles above its mouth, the Konzas near the junction
of the principal forks, the Arkansa about one hundred miles above the
Verdigrise, or seven hundred miles from its mouth, the Canadian about
one hundred and fifty miles from its mouth, and the Red river about one
hundred and fifty miles above the Kiamesha river.
The section of country under consideration exhibits a great variety of
aspect, the surface being diversified by mountains, hills, valleys,
and occasional tracts of rolling country; within the section, is an
extensive tract of bottom land deserving of a particular consideration.
It is situated on the Mississippi, commencing a few miles below the
Ohio, and extending downward to Red river, uninterrupted by hills
or high lands, and subject in many places to inundation from the
freshets of the Mississippi. The bottoms contain many large swamps,
rendered almost {213} impenetrable by a dense growth of cypress
and cypress-knees (the latter of which are conical excrescences
springing from the roots of the cypress, and shooting up in profusion
to the height of from one to eight or ten feet). The most extensive
of these swamps commences near the head of the bottom, and passes
south-westwardly back of New Madrid, the Little Prairie, St.
Francisville, &c., and terminates near the village of the Port of
Arkansa. The Great Swamp, the name by which this extensive morass is
designated, is about two hundred miles in length, and is of a variable
width, from five to twenty or thirty miles. The timber-growth of
this and of the other swamps, which are of a similar character, but
inferior in magnitude, consist principally of cypress of a superior
quality. But the difficulty of removing it renders it of little value
to the country. Within the bottom are also numerous lakes, lagoons,
and marshes, once, no doubt, parts of the bed of the Mississippi, or
of some of its tributaries that have their courses through the bottom.
Notwithstanding the general depression of this bottom, it contains many
insulated tracts of considerable extent, elevated above the range of
the highest floods. The bottom, almost throughout its whole extent,
supports a dense and heavy growth of timber, of an excellent quality,
together with a luxuriant undergrowth of cane brake, vines, &c.
It may not be improper to remark in this place, that great havoc is
annually made amongst the timber of this tract, by lumber and fuel
mongers, who furnish the New Orleans market with large supplies of
these articles, particularly of the former.
The bottom is bounded on the west by a chain of heights, corresponding
to the river bluffs on other parts of the Mississippi, but not arranged
in so regular a manner. These are the commencement of a part of
the hilly country hereafter to be considered. The most considerable
rivers that flow through the bottoms, and pour their tribute into the
Mississippi, {214} are the St. Francis, the Big Black and White rivers,
which are confluent, the Washita and Red river.
There are also a few other bottoms on the west side of the Mississippi
of moderate size. The largest of these are Tywapata and Bois Broulè,
situated a little above the mouth of the Ohio.
The hilly and mountainous country commences immediately west of
the Mississippi bottoms, and extends westwardly about four hundred
miles. Although the terms _hilly_ and _mountainous_ are expressive
of the general character of the country, yet the following portions
of this section may be enumerated as exceptions, viz. a tract of
country comprehending St. Louis, Belle Fontain, Florissant, and
extending south-westwardly so as to include the lead mine tract, Belle
View, &c. This tract (which embraces the most populous part of the
Missouri territory) may be denominated rolling, or moderately hilly.
Considerable portions of the country situated between the Arkansa and
Red rivers, particularly in the vicinity of the latter, are also of
this character. On the Arkansa, above Belle Point, is an extensive
tract of a similar description; as also many tracts of inferior size,
on the north side of the Arkansa, between the villages of the Port and
the Cadron settlements. On the south side of the Missouri is also an
extensive tract of rolling country, commencing at the river Le Mine,
six miles above Franklin, and extending upward along the Missouri, with
occasional interruptions, to the Council Bluff. Such is the extent of
this tract, that it comprises almost the whole of the country situated
between the assumed meridian line and the Missouri, from Fort Osage
upward. On the head waters of the Osage river, and on those of its
principal tributaries, the country is said to be of a similar character
also. To these may be added large portions of country situated on the
Verdigrise river, upon the Arkansa, above Grand river, and upon the
{215} Canadian, from its mouth upwards to the distance of about two
hundred miles. The tracts here designated, exhibit broad and elevated
swells of land, separated from each other by deep and spacious valleys.
These portions of country are chequered with woodlands and prairies, in
many instances alternating with each other in due proportion, for the
accommodation of settlers with farming and woodlands. On the Missouri
above Fort Osage, and on the Osage river, however, the proportion of
woodland is very inconsiderable, and the timber it affords of a scrubby
character. The prairies here, as on the north of the Missouri, occupy
at least nineteen-twentieths of the whole surface. Some portions of
the Red river country are also deficient in the quantum of woodlands
allotted to them; but in general it may be observed, that the more
southerly regions are better supplied with timber than those farther
north. The growth of the woodlands interspersed amongst the prairies
is mostly post oak, hickory, black jack, and white oak upon the high
lands; and cotton-wood, sycamore, black and white walnut, maple, bur
oak, and several other trees common to the western bottoms, in the
valleys. The bow wood, or, as it is sometimes called, the Osage orange,
is found upon the southerly tributaries of the Arkansa, and upon the
Red river and its tributaries. This tree is deserving of particular
notice, inasmuch as it affords a timber extremely compact and elastic;
its trunk and roots may prove very useful in dying yellow, and its
fruit of importance in medicine.
The residue of this section, with the exception of the river bottoms,
and tracts of valley land scattered in various directions throughout
the whole, is extremely hilly, broken, and mountainous, the hills
and mountains rising from five to fifteen hundred feet above the
water-table of the country in which they are situated. They are
exceedingly numerous, and are divided into a multiplicity of knobs
and peaks, {216} having rounded summits, and presenting perpendicular
cliffs and abrupt precipices of sandstone. Their surfaces generally are
covered with rocks of this description, or flinty fragments strewed in
profusion upon them. The growth upon them is, almost exclusively, pitch
pine, cedar, scrubby oaks, hickory, haw and bramble; the poverty of the
soil in some instances, and the scarcity of it in others, excluding the
more luxuriant vegetable productions common to the more level country
in their vicinity.
The range of mountains situated between the Arkansa and Red rivers
gives rise to the following streams, all of which are sufficiently
copious for mill-seats, and abound in cascades and falls, well adapted
to such purposes; viz. the Blue Water, Kiamesha and Little rivers; the
Mountain, Rolling, Cossetot and Saline forks of Little river, all of
which are tributary to Red river; the Little Missouri, Cadeau, Washita,
and the Saline, all confluent; the Mamelle, Le Fevre, Petit Jean and
Poteau, tributary to the Arkansa, besides numerous creeks of less note.
The hills and mountains between the Arkansa and Missouri are equally
prolific in watercourses. The most considerable of these are the
Verdigrise, Neosho or Grand river, Illinois; together with the Frogs,
Mulberry, White Oak, Spadra, Pine, Illinois, Point Remove and Cadron
creeks, tributary to the Arkansa; the Little Red and White rivers,
confluent streams; the Strawberry, Spring, Eleven Point, Currant,
Little and Big Black, all confluent, and tributary to White river,
which enters the Mississippi about thirty miles above the mouth of the
Arkansa. The St. Francis and the Merameg have their sources in this
broken region also, and discharge themselves into the Mississippi. Of
the valleys of the rivers last enumerated, viz. those north of the
Arkansa and tributary to the Mississippi, it is observable that they
are uniformly possessed of a rich soil, but owing to the excessive
floods occasionally brought down through them from {217} the hills and
mountains, their cultivation is very precarious. The valley of White
river, and those of some few others, are in many places elevated above
the reach of the highest freshets, and are not altogether subject to
this inconvenience. But for the most part they are liable to being
swept by overwhelming freshets, which prostrate fences, buildings,
and every artificial structure that opposes their march. Even a fall
freshet has been known to inundate plantations situated within the
valleys, to the depth of eight or ten feet. These floods are generally
very sudden, as well as excessive, to such a degree, that on some
occasions the water has risen, in the course of one night, more than
twenty feet. By these sudden rises of the water, the planter that in
the evening thought his family and possessions secure from harm, has
been compelled the next morning to embark with his family in a canoe,
to save themselves from impending destruction, while his habitation,
fields, cattle, and all his effects, are abandoned to the fury of the
torrent.
The streams rising in the same hilly country, and tributary to the
Missouri, are the following, viz. the Bon Homme creek, the Gasconade,
the Osage and its tributaries, the Le Mine, the Blue Water, and several
streams tributary to the Konzas river. Upon some of these, as the
Bon Homme, Gasconade, and some few creeks besides, mills have been
constructed, at which much of the timber of the St. Louis market is
sawed.
This section, as yet, is but very partially populated, although the
inhabitants in some portions of it are considerably numerous. The
most populous part of the section is the country situated immediately
below the mouth of the Missouri, including the town of St. Louis and
the villages of Florissant and Carondelet, Herculaneum, St. Genevieve,
Bainbridge, Cape Girardeau, Jackson, St. Michael's, and the country
in their vicinity; the lead mine tract, including Mima {218} Berton,
Potosi, and Belle View, are considerably populous. The settlements in
these places, however, if we except the sites occupied by the towns
and villages just enumerated, are still very scattering, and but a
small proportion of the land susceptible of agriculture is yet under
cultivation. Besides these, there are numerous other settlements and
several small villages within this part of the Missouri territory,
distributed in various directions, and constituting but a very scanty
population. They are scattered along the Missouri from its mouth
to Fort Osage, a distance of more than three hundred miles, on
the Gasconade, Merameg, St. Francis, Big Black, and several of its
tributaries.
Within the Arkansa territory, there are but few villages, and the
settlements are as yet very scattering. The principal villages are
the Port of Arkansa, situated about sixty miles above the mouth of
the river; Davidsonville, on Big Black river; a small village at the
commencement of the high lands on the Arkansa, at a place called the
Little Rock, about two hundred miles from the mouth of the river,
selected as the seat of government for the territory. Besides these,
there are a few other inconsiderable villages on the Arkansa river, as
also several of small size, situated in the country between the river
just mentioned and the Red river, the most considerable of which are
at Pecan Point, Mount Prairie, Prairie de Inde, &c. These villages
contain but very few houses, and those generally of a rude structure,
a circumstance attributable only to the infancy of the territory. The
settlements of the territory are scattered along the Arkansa, from the
White river cut off (a channel uniting these two rivers at the distance
of thirty miles above the mouth of the former, and three miles above
that of the latter) to Belle Point, a distance of about four hundred
miles. On Little Red, White, and Strawberry rivers, are many scattering
settlements, as also on the Washita, Cadeau, Little Missouri, {219}
and the several forks of Little river. The settlements upon Red river
extend upward to the Kiamesha, a distance of about nine hundred miles
from its mouth, following the meanders of the river.
The settlements of the section under consideration are most numerous
in those parts represented, in the foregoing description, as being
variegated with prairies and woodlands alternating with each other. In
the valley of the Arkansa, however, which is generally clad in rich
forests and luxuriant cane brakes, prairies are seldom to be met with,
and settlers have had recourse to clearing the land necessary for their
plantations.
In addition to the white settlements above pointed out, there are
numerous villages and settlements of the Cherokee Indians extending
along the Arkansa, from the mouth of Point Remove creek upward
to Mulberry river, a distance of about one hundred miles. These
settlements, in respect to the comforts and conveniences of life they
afford, appear to vie with, and in many instances even surpass, those
of the Americans in that part of the country.
There are a few villages of the Quapaws or Arkansas, and Choctaws,
situated on the south side of the Arkansa river, below the high lands.
They are not numerous, subsist principally upon game and Indian corn of
their own raising, and have ever been friendly to the whites. Upon the
river St. Francis are a few settlements of the Delawares and Shawnees,
dispersed remnants of those unfortunate nations. The several bands of
the Osage nation resident upon the Verdigrise, and upon the head waters
of Osage river, also the Konzas Indians living upon the river bearing
their name, are included within this section of the country.
In regard to climate, this region, as it expands through more than
eight degrees of latitude, may be expected to afford a considerable
variety; and the position is sufficiently verified by the commencement
{220} and progress of annual vegetation. The change of climate is
also indicated by certain peculiarities observable in the vegetable
products of different parts of the country. For example, vegetation
begins at least a month earlier in the southern than in the northern
extreme of the region. The Spanish moss disappears northwardly of the
33d degree of north latitude; cotton and indigo cannot be cultivated
to advantage in a latitude higher than 36 or 37 degrees; and the cane
brake is seldom found north of 37½ degrees.
In regard to the salubrity of the climate, there is also a diversity,
depending upon local circumstances rather than upon the temperature
of the weather. A luxuriant soil yielding its products to decay and
putrefy upon the ground, also stagnant waters, flat lands and marshes
in which the river valleys of this region abound, cannot fail to load
the atmosphere with pestilential miasmata, and render the country
unhealthy, wherever these occurrences are to be met with. But it is
presumed that the causes of disease will gradually be exterminated as
the population of the country increases.
Of the rivers of this region there are many that are navigable for
keel-boats of several tons burden, but all of them have more or
less obstructions from shoals and frosts at different periods. The
Arkansa, which, in point of magnitude and extent, deservedly ranks
second amongst the tributaries of the Mississippi (the Missouri being
the first), is navigable to the mouth of the Neosho, or Grand river,
a distance of about six hundred miles. In this part of the river,
however, the navigation is liable to obstructions, for want of a
sufficient depth of water, during a period of two and a half or three
months, commencing in July. Occasional obstructions are also imposed
by ice forming in the river during the winter season, but these are
seldom of long continuance, the winters being usually short and mild.
As the freshets {221} of the river seldom prevail more than a few
days at a time, and are usually attended by sudden rises and falls of
the water, boats of moderate draft and burden only are suited to its
navigation. The Arkansa is navigable at all seasons for boats of this
description about two hundred miles, which comprehends the distance
by the meanders of the river from the Mississippi to the commencement
of the high lands. Above the mouth of the Neosho it spreads to a much
greater width than below, and the water is more extensively diffused
over its bed, which renders the shoals more numerous and the navigation
more precarious. This part of the Arkansa cannot indeed be considered
navigable, even for pirogues of a large size, except during the short
period of a freshet, which is seldom long enough to complete a voyage
of one hundred miles ascending and descending.
The Red river is navigable, during most of the year, to the Great Raft,
about five hundred miles from its mouth. At this place its navigation
is effectually obstructed, except in a high stage of water, when
keel-boats of ten or fifteen tons burden may pass around it and ascend
several hundred miles above. That part of the river situated above
the Raft, however, like the upper part of the Arkansa, is rendered
impassable for boats of burden, by shoals and sand-bars.
The Washita, tributary to Red river, is navigable many miles. That
part of it particularly situated within the valley of the Mississippi,
and denominated Black river, admits of constant navigation for boats
of considerable burden. The Little river, which is also tributary
to Red river, together with its forks, heretofore enumerated, is
navigable in high water. White river is navigable in a moderate stage
of water between three and four hundred miles. Also the Big Black, its
principal tributary, and several branches of the river last mentioned,
viz. the Strawberry, Currant, {222} Eleven Point, and Spring rivers.
The navigation of the St. Francis is blocked up near its mouth, and
rendered impassable for boats of every description, by rafts of logs
and drift-wood, completely choking the channel of the river, and in
many places occupying the whole of its bed for the distance of several
miles together. The Merameg is also navigable in a moderate stage of
water for many miles.
The Gasconade, Osage, and Konzas rivers are navigable in the spring
season, but their navigation seldom extends far inland from their
mouths, being obstructed by shoals or rapids.
Of the rivers tributary to the Missouri, it is remarkable that their
mouths are generally blocked up with mud, consequent to the subsidence
of the summer freshet of that river, which usually takes place in
the month of July. The reason is obvious; the freshets of the more
southerly tributaries are discharged early in the season, and wash from
their mouths the sand and mud previously deposited therein, leaving
them free from obstructions. These freshets having subsided, the more
northerly branches discharge their floods, formed by the melting of
the snow at a later period. The Missouri being swollen thereby, backs
its waters, charged with mud, considerable distances up the mouths of
the tributaries before alluded to. The water here becoming stagnant,
deposits its mud; and the tributaries, having no more freshets to expel
it, remain with their mouths thus obstructed till the ensuing spring.
The lower part of the Canadian river, although it is included within
the section under consideration, will be described in the sequel of the
report, in connexion with the rest of that river.
Of the animals found in the several sections of country above
described, there are a great variety in almost every department of
zoology. But as most of them are common in other parts of the United
States, they need not to be enumerated here.
{223} _Of the country situated between the meridian of the Council
Bluff and the Rocky Mountains_
We next proceed to a description of the country westward of the assumed
meridian, and extending to the Rocky Mountains, which are its western
boundary. This section embraces an extent of about four hundred miles
square, lying between 96 and 105 degrees of west longitude, and between
35 and 42 degrees of north latitude.
Proceeding westwardly across the meridian above specified, the hilly
country gradually subsides, giving place to a region of vast extent,
spreading towards the north and south, and presenting an undulating
surface, with nothing to limit the view or variegate the prospect,
but here and there a hill, knob, or insulated tract of table-land. At
length the Rocky Mountains break upon the view, towering abruptly from
the plains, and mingling their snow-capped summits with the clouds.
On approaching the mountains, no other change is observable in the
general aspect of the country, except that the isolated knobs and
table-lands above alluded to become more frequent and more distinctly
marked, the bluffs by which the valleys of watercourses are bounded
present a greater abundance of rocks, stones lie in greater profusion
upon the surface, and the soil becomes more sandy and sterile. If, to
the characteristics above intimated, we add that of an almost complete
destitution of woodland (for not more than one thousandth part of the
section can be said to possess a timber-growth) we shall have a pretty
correct idea of the general aspect of the whole country.
The insulated tracts herein alluded to as table-lands, are scattered
throughout the section, and give to the country a very remarkable
appearance. They rise from six to eight hundred feet above the common
{224} level, and are surrounded in many instances by rugged slopes and
perpendicular precipices, rendering their summits almost inaccessible.
Many of them are in this manner completely insulated, while others are
connected with the plains below by gentle acclivities, leading from
their basis to their summits, upon one side or other of each eminence.
These tracts, as before intimated, are more numerous, but less
extensive in the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains than they are farther
eastward; and in the former situations, they are more strikingly
characterized by the marks above specified than in the latter.
The geological formations that present themselves along the declivities
of those heights are principally horizontal strata of secondary
sandstones, and breccia or puddingstone, alternating with each other.
Clinkstone prevails upon the surface of them in many places, but in
general the superior strata are rocks of the description just before
mentioned. These tracts are denominated tabular, not from any flatness
of surface by which they are characterized, but from their appearance
at a distant view, and from the horizontal disposition of the
stratifications imbedded in them. Their surfaces are usually waving,
and in some instances rise into knobs and ridges of several hundred
feet high; many of them are clad in a scanty growth of pitch pine,
red cedar, scrubby oaks, &c., while others exhibit a bald or prairie
surface.
By far the greater proportion of this section of country is
characterized by a rolling and plain surface, which may be alleged
not only of the space included within the limits above assigned, but
of extensive portions of country north and south of it. Although the
elevated table-lands, a description of which has just been given, are
situated within this region, they occupy but a small proportion of it.
In addition to these inequalities in the surface of the country, there
are numerous mounds or knobs of different magnitude, and occasionally
swells of greater {225} or less extent, which contribute to give a
pleasing variety to the prospect. The country is also divided into
extensive parterres by the valleys of rivers and creeks, which are
usually sunk 150 or 200 feet below the common level, and bounded in
some places by perpendicular precipices, and in others by bluffs, or
banks of gentle slopes.
Immediately at the base of the mountains, and also at those of some of
the insular table-lands, are situated many remarkable ridges, rising in
the form of parapets, to the height of between fifty and one hundred
and fifty feet. These appear to have been attached to the neighbouring
heights, of which they once constituted a part, but have, at some
remote period, been cleft asunder from them by some extraordinary
convulsion of nature, which has prostrated them in their present
condition.
The rocky stratifications, of which these ridges are principally
composed, and which are exactly similar to those of the insulated
table-lands, are variously inclined, having various dips, from
forty-five to eighty degrees.
Throughout this section of country the surface is occasionally
characterized by water-worn pebbles, and gravel of granite, gneiss,
and quartz, but the predominant characteristic is sand, which in many
instances prevails almost to the entire exclusion of vegetable mould.
Large tracts are often to be met with, exhibiting scarcely a trace of
vegetation. The whole region, as before hinted, is almost entirely
destitute of a timber-growth of any description. In some few instances,
however, sandy knobs and ridges make their appearance, thickly covered
with red cedars of a dwarfish growth. There are also some few tracts
clad in a growth of pitch pine and scrubby oaks; but, in general,
nothing of vegetation appears upon the uplands but withered grass
of a stinted growth, no more than two or three inches high, prickly
pears profusely covering extensive {226} tracts, and weeds of a few
varieties, which, like the prickly pear, seem to thrive best in the
most arid and sterile soil.
In the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains, southwardly of the Arkansa
river, the surface of the country, in many places, is profusely covered
with loose fragments of volcanic rocks. On some occasions, stones of
this description are so numerous as almost to exclude vegetation. A
multiplicity of ridges and knobs of various sizes, containing rocks of
this character, also make their appearance. All these formations seem
to be superincumbent upon horizontal strata of secondary sandstone.
But the volcanoes whence they originated have left no vestiges by
which their exact locality can be determined. In all probability, they
were extinguished previously to the recession of the waters that once
inundated the vast region between the Alleghany and Rocky Mountains.
Of the rivers that have their courses through this section, those of
most note are the Platte, the Konzas and its forks, the Arkansa, and
the Canadian tributary to the Arkansa. The Platte rises in the Rocky
Mountains, and after an easterly course of about eight hundred miles,
falls into the Missouri, at the distance of about seven hundred miles
from the Mississippi. It derives its name from the circumstance of its
being broad and shoal; its average width being about twelve hundred
yards, exclusive of the islands it embosoms; and its depth, in a
moderate stage of water, so inconsiderable, that the river is fordable
in almost every place. The main Platte is formed of two confluent
tributaries of nearly equal size, called the North and South forks,
both of which have their sources considerably within the range of the
Rocky Mountains. They unite about four hundred miles westward from
the mouth of the Platte, having meandered about the same distance
eastwardly from the mountains. Besides these, {227} the Platte has
two considerable tributaries, the one called the Elk Horn, entering
a few miles above its mouth, and the other the Loup Fork, entering
about ninety miles above the same place. The valleys of the Platte
and its several tributaries are extremely broad, and in many places
considerably fertile. They gradually become less fertile on ascending
from the mouths of the rivers on which they are situated, till at
length they exhibit an arid and sterile appearance. The alluvion of
which the bottoms are composed contains a large proportion of sand,
which, added to the nitrous and saline matter blended with it,
occasions frequent appearances of complete barrenness. Magnesia also
appears to be a component part of the soil, a quality invariably
derogatory to the fertility of any soil. The valley of the Platte, from
its mouths to its constituent forks, spreads to the width of ten or
twelve miles, and forms a most beautiful expanse of level country. It
is bounded on both sides by high lands, elevated twenty-five or thirty
feet above the valley, and connected therewith by gentle slopes.
The river in several places expands to the width of many miles,
embosoming numerous islands, some of which are broad and considerably
extensive, and all of them covered with a growth of cotton-wood and
willows. These are the only woodlands that make their appearance along
the river, and in travelling westward these become less numerous
and extensive, till at length they entirely disappear. Copses and
skirts of woodland again present themselves in the neighbourhood of
the mountains, but they are of small magnitude, and the trees they
furnish are of a dwarfish growth. For a distance of nearly two hundred
miles, commencing at the confluence of the North and South forks, and
extending westwardly towards the mountains, the country is almost
entirely destitute of woodland, scarcely a tree, bush, or even a shrub,
making its appearance.
{228} The Platte is seldom navigable, except for skin canoes, requiring
but a moderate depth of water, and for these only when a freshet
prevails in the river. No attempts have ever been made to ascend the
river in canoes for any great distance; the prevalence of shoals, and
the rapidity of the current, discouraging such an undertaking. The bed
of the Platte is seldom depressed more than six or eight feet below the
surface of the bottoms, and in many places even less; and spreads to
such a width, that the highest freshets pass off without inundating the
bottoms, except in their lowest parts; the rise of the water, on such
occasions, being no more than five or six feet.
In order to account in some measure for the diversity of soil
observable in the vallies of most of our western rivers, it may not
be improper in this place to assign one of the principal causes that
operate in producing this effect. The alluvial deposits of which the
river bottoms are formed, consist of particles of mud and sand, more
or less minute. The coarser and more ponderous particles are of course
soonest deposited, while the finer are transported by the current
to a greater distance, and deposited near the mouths of the rivers.
Thus it happens, that the bottoms situated nearest to the sources of
the western rivers, are sandy, and contain but a small proportion
of vegetable mould, while those nearer their mouths are generally
furnished with a rich and fertile loam.
The Konzas, or Konzays, as it is pronounced by the Indians, is made
up of two considerable streams, heading in the plains between the
Platte and Arkansa rivers, called the Republican and Smoky-hill forks;
tributary to the former of these, are the Solomon's and Salim forks, of
less magnitude, rising also in the same plains. The Konzas is navigable
only in high freshets for boats of burden, and on such occasions not
more than one hundred and fifty or two hundred miles, the navigation
being obstructed by shoals. {229} The character of this river and its
several branches is similar to that of the Platte and its tributaries.
Woodlands are seldom to be met with, except in narrow skirts and
small copses along the watercourses. Much of the country situated upon
its forks is said to be possessed of a good soil, but is rendered
uninhabitable for want of timber and water. The bottoms are possessed
of a light sandy soil, and the uplands are in many places characterized
by aridity and barrenness. The surface for the most part is rolling,
but in some instances inclines to hilly.
That portion of the Arkansa included within the section under
consideration has a bed or channel varying in width from four hundred
yards to more than a mile, exclusively of islands. In the neighbourhood
of the mountains, its width does not exceed fifty or sixty yards,
gradually growing wider in its progress downward. Its valley, for a
distance of more than one hundred miles from the place where it issues
from the mountains, contains a considerable timber-growth, principally
of cotton-wood, in skirts bordering upon the river, which occasionally
embosoms islands clad in the same kind of growth. Every appearance of
timber, however, is lost on a further progress eastward, and nothing
is presented to variegate or adorn the prospect inland, but a broad
expanse of waving prairies.
Proceeding eastward along the river, its valley gradually widens, and
the bluffs or banks by which it is bounded become less elevated and
abrupt. The bottoms rise but a few feet above the water-level of the
river, but the freshets, having a broad bed like that of the Platte to
expand upon, seldom rise so high as to inundate the bottoms. This part
of the Arkansa, as before hinted, cannot be considered as navigable,
except for boats of light burden during the prevalence of a freshet. In
a very low stage, the river is said to disappear in many places, the
{230} whole of its water passing off through the immense body of sand
of which its bed is composed.
The Arkansa, having a direction nearly east and west, has no great
variety of climate to traverse in its course from the mountains to the
Mississippi; consequently there is no succession of thaws taking place
upon the river, calculated to maintain a freshet for any considerable
length of time. The freshets are occasioned by a simultaneous melting
of the snow throughout the whole extent of the river, and by showers of
rain, which, falling upon a rolling surface, is quickly drained off,
and causes sudden, but seldom excessive rises in the river. I have
witnessed, in the Arkansa, no less than three considerable rises and
falls of the water in the course of two weeks.
The most considerable streams tributary to this part of the Arkansa are
the Negracka or Red Fork, and the Newsewketongu, or Grand Saline, on
the south, and the Little Arkansa and Stinking Fork on the north side.
The Negracka rises within fifty or sixty miles of the mountains, and
after meandering eastwardly between four and five hundred miles, unites
with the Arkansa at the distance of about nine hundred miles from the
mouth of the latter. The Newsewketongu has its source in the plains
between the Arkansa and Canadian rivers, and unites with the former
about one hundred and fifty miles below the Negracka. The head waters
of the Little Arkansa interlock with those of the Smoky-hill Fork of
the Konzas, and are discharged into the Arkansa, about fifteen hundred
miles above its mouth. The Stinking Fork rises amongst the head-waters
of the Neosho, and enters the Arkansa about eight hundred miles from
its mouth. Besides these, there are many other streams of smaller size
entering on both sides of the river.
The Canadian rises at the base of the Rocky Mountains, and after a
meandering course of about {231} one thousand miles, enters the Arkansa
at the distance of about five hundred and fifty miles from the mouth of
the latter. This river has generally been represented, upon the maps
of the country, as having a north-easterly course; whereas its source
is nearly in the same latitude as its confluence with the Arkansa,
consequently its general course is nearly east. In its course, it forms
an extensive curve to the southward, leaving a broad space between
it and the Arkansa, in which several streams, many hundred miles in
length, tributary to both of these rivers, have their origin and course.
This river has a broad valley, bounded by bluffs from two to five
hundred feet high, faced with rocky precipices near its source, and
presenting abrupt declivities, intersected by numerous ravines lower
down. It has a spacious bed, depressed but a few feet below the
bottoms, and exhibiting one continued stratum of sand through the
greater part of its length. It is the channel through which the water
of a vast extent of country is carried off, yet, during most of the
summer season, it is entirely destitute of running water throughout a
large proportion of its extent, a circumstance in proof of the aridity
of region drained by it. Fifty miles above its mouth, it receives at
least two-thirds of its water from its principal tributary, denominated
the North Fork. This fork rises between the Arkansa and Canadian, and
has a meandering course of about seven hundred miles. Six miles above
the fork just mentioned, another tributary enters the Canadian called
the South Fork, about half as large as the other. Notwithstanding the
supplies afforded by these two tributaries, the Canadian has not a
sufficiency of water in summer to render it navigable even to their
mouths. At the distance of twenty miles above its mouth, a chain of
rocks (slaty sandstone) extends across the bed of the river, but
occasions no considerable fall. A little above the entrance of the
South Fork, is another of the same {232} description, forming rapids
of moderate descent, not more than four hundred yards in length. With
these exceptions, the bed of the river presents no rocky formations
in place, for more than four hundred miles from its confluence with
the Arkansa. About three hundred and fifty miles from that point,
beds of gypsum, or plaster of Paris, begin to make their appearance
in the bluffs fronting upon the river, and upon the declivities of
the highland knobs. A great abundance of this article is to be met
with, not only upon the Canadian, but also upon the upper part of
the Arkansa. The hills, in which it is imbedded, are composed of
ferruginous clay and fine sand of a deep red complexion. Hence the
Arkansa derives the colouring matter that gives to its waters their
reddish hue.
The bottoms of the Canadian, in the neighbourhood of its mouth, are
possessed of a soil exceedingly prolific; but, like those of the other
rivers of this region, the more remote their situation from the mouth
of the river, the more sandy and sterile is their appearance. Its
valley is plentifully supplied with timber of an excellent quality,
for a distance of about two hundred miles on the lower part of the
river; and the high lands, for nearly the same distance, are agreeably
diversified with prairies and woodlands. This portion of the river is
situated eastward of the assumed meridian, and the country upon it has
already been partially described in a former part of this report.
The woodland growth, upon the lower part of the Canadian, consists of
cotton-wood, sycamore, white, blue, and black ash, swamp cedar, red
elm, coffee tree, yellow wood, sugar tree, box elder, white and black
walnut, wild cherry, mulberry, &c. in the river valley; and hickory,
white and post oak, black jack, black oak, &c. upon the adjacent
uplands. On a progress westward, the most valuable of the timber
trees above enumerated disappear, till at length occasional groves
of cotton-wood, mingled with mulberry, {233} red elm, and stunted
shrubbery of various kinds, constitute the only woodlands of the
country. On this occasion, it may be observed, that the cane or reed,
the pea-vine, pawpaw, spice-wood, hop-vine, and several other varieties
of shrubs and vines common only to rich soils, are no where to be found
within this section, or westward of the proposed meridian.
The country of the Canadian above that last considered, or that portion
of it west of the assumed meridian, appears to be possessed of a soil
somewhat richer than the more northerly parts of the section, but
exhibits no indications of extraordinary fecundity in any part of
it. Proceeding westward, a very gradual change is observable in the
apparent fertility of the soil, the surface becoming more sandy and
sterile, and the vegetation less vigorous and luxuriant. The bottoms
appear to be composed, in many places, almost exclusively of loose
sand, exhibiting but few signs of vegetation. Knobs and drifts of
sand, driven from the bed of the river by the violence of the wind,
are piled in profusion along the margin of the river throughout the
greater part of its length. It is remarkable, that these drifts are
in many instances covered with grape vines of a scrubby appearance,
bearing fruit in the greatest abundance and perfection. The vines grow
to various heights, from eighteen inches to four feet, unaccompanied,
in some instances, by any other vegetable, and bear a grape of a dark
purple or black colour, of a delicious flavour, and of the size of a
large pea or common gooseberry.
The waters of this section, almost in every part of it, appear to hold
in solution a greater or less proportion of common salt and sulphate
of magnesia, which, in many instances, render them too brackish or
bitter for use. Saline and nitrous efflorescences frequently occur
upon the surface, in various parts of the country, and incrustations
of salt, of considerable {234} thickness, are to be found in some few
places south of the Arkansa river. As to the existence of rock salt in
a mineral state some doubts are to be entertained, if the decision is
to rest upon the character of the specimens exhibited as proofs of the
fact. The several examples of this formation that we have witnessed,
are evidently crystalline salt deposited by a regular process of
evaporation and crystallization, and formed into concrete masses or
crusts upon the surface of the ground.
Indications of coal are occasionally to be seen, but this mineral
does not probably occur in large quantities. The geological character
of this section is not such as to encourage the search for valuable
minerals. A deep crust of secondary sandstone, occasionally alternating
with breccia, with here and there a superstratum of rocks of a
primitive type, are the principal formations that present themselves.
Of the animals of this region, the buffaloe or bison ranks first in
importance, inasmuch as it supplies multitudes of savages not only with
the principal part of their necessary food, but also contributes to
furnish them with warm clothing. The flesh of this animal is equal, if
not superior, to beef, and affords not only a savoury but a wholesome
diet. A large proportion of this section, commencing at the assumed
meridian, and extending westward to within one hundred miles of the
Rocky Mountains, constitutes a part only of their pasture ground,
over which they roam in numbers to an incredible amount. Their range
extends northwardly and southwardly of the section, as far as we have
any particular account of the country. The animal next in importance is
the wild horse, a descendant, no doubt, of the Spanish breed of horses,
to which its size, form and variety of colours, show that it is nearly
allied. In regard to their contour, symmetry, &c. they afford all the
varieties common to that breed of horses. They are {235} considerably
numerous in some parts of the country, but not abundant. They are
generally collected in gangs, but are sometimes solitary.
Grizzly or white bears are frequently to be seen in the vicinity of
the mountains. They are much larger than the common bear, endowed with
great strength, and are said to be exceedingly ferocious. The black or
common bears are numerous in some parts of the country, but none of
these animals are found remote from woodlands, upon the products of
which they in a great measure depend for their subsistence.
The common deer are to be met with in every part of this section, but
are most numerous in the vicinity of woodlands. The black-tailed or
mule deer is found only in the neighbourhood of the mountains; hilly
and broken lands seem to afford them their favourite pasture ground.
The elk is also an inhabitant of this section, but is not to be
found remote from woodlands. The cabric wild goat, or, as it is more
frequently called, the antelope, is common. They are numerous, and with
the buffaloe are the common occupants of the plains, from which they
retire only in quest of water.
Wolves are exceedingly numerous, particularly within the immediate
range of the buffaloe. Of these there are many varieties,
distinguishable by their shape, size and colour.
The marmot, commonly called the prairie dog, is more abundant
throughout this section than any other quadruped. They live in villages
scattered in every direction, and thickly inhabited; a single village
in some instances occupying a tract of ground three or four miles in
extent. Their habitations are burrows three or four inches in diameter,
situated at the distance of fifteen or twenty paces asunder. Their
habits and manners in other respects are peculiarly interesting. They
subsist on vegetables; their {236} flesh is similar to that of the
ground hog, and their hair equally as coarse.
The beaver, otter, mink, and muskrat, are numerous upon the rivers,
creeks, and rivulets issuing from the mountains, and generally upon
those whose valleys are supplied with woodland.
Badgers, raccoons, hares, polecats, porcupines, many varieties of
squirrels, panthers, wild cats, lynxes and foxes of several species,
are also inhabitants of this section. Besides these, the country
affords a great variety and abundance of reptiles and insects, both
venomous and harmless.
Of the feathered tribes, no very considerable variety is observable.
The turtle-dove, the jay, the barn swallow, the quail (partridge of
the Middle States), the owl, whip-poor-will, and lark, which seem more
widely distributed over the territory of the United States than any
other birds, are found here. Several varieties of the hawk, containing
some new species, the bald and gray eagle, the buzzard, raven, crow,
jackdaw, magpie, turkey, two or three varieties of the grouse,
pheasant, pigeon, many varieties of the sparrow and fly-catcher, the
whooping or sandhill crane, curlew, sandpiper, together with a variety
of other land and water fowls, are more or less numerous in this
region. It is remarkable that birds of various kinds common to the
sea-coast, and seldom found far in the interior, pervade the valley
of the Mississippi to a great distance from the gulf of Mexico, and
frequent the regions adjacent to the Rocky Mountains.
In regard to this extensive section of country, I do not hesitate in
giving the opinion, that it is almost wholly unfit for cultivation,
and of course uninhabitable by a people depending upon agriculture
for their subsistence. Although tracts of fertile land considerably
extensive are occasionally to be met with, yet the scarcity of wood
and water, almost {237} uniformly prevalent, will prove an insuperable
obstacle in the way of settling the country. This objection rests not
only against the section immediately under consideration, but applies
with equal propriety to a much larger portion of the country. Agreeably
to the best intelligence that can be had, concerning the country
both northward and southward of the section, and especially to the
inferences deducible from the account given by Lewis and Clarke of the
country situated between the Missouri and the Rocky Mountains above
the river Platte, the vast region commencing near the sources of the
Sabine, Trinity, Brases, and Colorado, and extending northwardly to
the forty-ninth degree of north latitude, by which the United States'
territory is limited in that direction, is throughout of a similar
character. The whole of this region seems peculiarly adapted as a range
for buffaloes, wild goats, and other wild game; incalculable multitudes
of which find ample pasturage and subsistence upon it.
This region, however, viewed as a frontier, may prove of infinite
importance to the United States, inasmuch as it is calculated to serve
as a barrier to prevent too great an extension of our population
westward, and secure us against the machinations or incursions of an
enemy that might otherwise be disposed to annoy us in that part of our
frontier.
The Indians of the section last described, whose numbers are very
limited compared with the extent of country they inhabit, will be
considered in the sequel of this report.
_Of the Rocky Mountains_
This range of mountains has been distinguished by a variety of
appellations, amongst which the following are the most common, viz.
Rocky, Shining, Mexican, Chippewyan, Andes, &c. The general {238}
course of the range is about N.N.W. or S.S.E. Its breadth varies from
fifty to one hundred miles. They rise abruptly out of the plains, which
lie extended at their base on the east side, towering into peaks of
great height, which renders them visible at the distance of more than
one hundred miles eastward from their base. They consist of ranges,
knobs, and peaks, variously disposed, among which are interspersed many
broad and fertile valleys. The more elevated parts of the mountains are
covered with perpetual snows, which contribute to give them a luminous
and at a great distance even a brilliant appearance, whence they have
derived the name of Shining Mountains.
Between the Arkansa and Platte, on a small creek tributary to the
former, is situated a high part of the mountains, denominated the
"Highest Peak" on many maps of the country, and said to be more
elevated than any other part within the distance of one hundred and
fifty or two hundred miles. This peak, whose summit has been accounted
inaccessible, was ascended by a detachment of the expedition conducted
by Dr. James, from which circumstance it has been called James's Peak.
Its elevation above the common level, ascertained by a trigonometrical
measurement, is about eight thousand five hundred feet. But the
correctness of the statement, that it is higher than any other parts
of the mountains within the distance above mentioned, is questionable.
Judging from the position of the snow near the summits of other peaks
and ridges at no great distance from it, a much greater elevation is
apparent.
The mountains are clad in a scattering growth of scrubby pines, oak,
cedar, and furze, and exhibit a very rugged and broken aspect. The
rocky formations embodied in them, contrary to the opinion generally
received, are of a primitive character, consisting of granite, gneiss,
quartz rocks, &c. It {239} should be remarked, however, that a deep
crust of secondary rocks, the same as the stratifications of the plains
before mentioned, appears to recline against the east side of the
mountains, extending upward from their base many hundred feet.
At the base of James's Peak above designated, are two remarkable
springs of water, considerably copious, and strongly impregnated
with fixed air. At the place also where the Arkansa issues from the
mountains, are several medicinal springs on the north side of the
river, rising in a small area at the base of the mountain. These
springs were discovered by Captain Bell, and, in consequence, I have
taken the liberty to call them Bell's Springs. They are six in number,
one of which is strongly impregnated with fixed air, another with
sulphurated hydrogen, and the rest with salt and sulphur; the water of
all being more or less chalybeate.
_Of the Indians inhabiting the section of country last described_
This country is exclusively inhabited by savages, no other beings of
the human family having fixed their abode within it. They consist of
the following tribes and nations, whose numbers, places of residence,
and mode of life, will be subjects of consideration as far as our
knowledge of them extends.
The Otoes, or as they are called in their own language, the
Wahtooh-tah-tah, reside in a permanent village of dirt or earthen
lodges, on the south bank of the river Platte, about fifty miles from
its confluence with the Missouri, and thirty miles south-westwardly
from the Council Bluff. The principal remnant of the old Missouries,
who have become extinct as a nation, have their residence with the
Otoes. In the course of the last winter, whilst these Indians were
absent from their village on their winter-hunt, their town was
partly burnt by the {240} Sauks, which misfortune induced them to
take up a temporary abode upon Salt river, a few miles from their
former residence. But it was generally supposed that they would return
again, and rebuild their town. The name of their principal chief is
Shongotongo, or Big Horse. Probable number of lodges 100, of persons
1400. The Otoes and Missouries are esteemed a brave people, and are
friendly towards the Americans. They are at war with the Sauks, Foxes,
Sioux, Osages, Ietans, and other Indians west of the Missouri. A small
band of the Ioways resided for some time with these Indians, but not
being able to harmonize with them, lately returned to their old village
on the river De Moyen of the Mississippi. Their principal chief,
usually called Hard Heart, being dissatisfied with the conduct of his
tribe, remains with the Otoes.
The Omawhaw, or as it is commonly written the Maha nation, exultingly
boast that they have never killed an American. On the contrary, they
have ever been friendly, and still hold the Americans in the highest
estimation. Under the influence of their present principal chief,
Ongpatonga, or the Big Elk, they never go to war except in the pursuit
of a predatory war-party, in consequence of which the traders have
given them the reputation of being cowardly. But the history of this
people shows that they have been as ambitious of martial renown, and
have acquired as large a share of it, as any of their neighbours. They
formerly resided in a village of dirt lodges upon Omawhaw creek, a
small stream entering the Missouri about two hundred miles above the
Council Bluff; but they have recently abandoned it, and are about
building a town on Elk Horn river. Their number of souls is about 1500.
The Puncahs have their residence in a small village of dirt lodges,
about one hundred and eighty miles above Omawhaw creek. This tribe have
a common origin with the Omawhaws, and speak the same language. {241}
Their principal chief is called Smoke Maker. Their number is about 200
souls.
The tribes above enumerated evidently sprung from the same common
stock, the language of all being radically the same. They have a
tradition that their fathers came from beyond the Lakes.
The Pawnees are a race of Indians distinct from the preceding, their
language differing radically from that of the Indians alluded to. The
Pawnees consist of three distinct bands, that have their residence at
present on a branch of the river Platte called the Loup Fork, about
sixty miles from the mouth of the latter, and between 100 and 115 miles
westward from the Council Bluff. The three bands are distinguished by
the appellation of the Grand, the Republican, and the Loup Pawnees. The
two former acknowledge a common origin, but the latter deny having any
natural affinity with them, though their habits, language, &c. indicate
the same ancestry. They live in three villages, included within an
extent of about seven miles on the north bank of the Loup Fork, all
compactly built.
The village of the Grand Pawnees is situated immediately on the bank
of the river, and contains about 180 earthen lodges, 900 families,
or 3500 souls. The name of the principal chief of this village is
Tarrarecawaho, or Long Hair.
The village of the Republican Pawnees is situated about three miles
above that of the Grand Pawnees, contains about 50 lodges, 250
families, or 1000 souls. The name of their principal chief is Fool
Robe, who is very much under the influence of Long Hair. This band
separated many years since from the Grand Pawnees, and established
themselves upon the Republican fork of Konzas river, where they were
visited by Pike on his tour westward. They seem to be gradually
amalgamating with the present stock, and their village wears a
declining aspect.
The village of the Loup Pawnees, or Skeree, as they call themselves, is
situated four miles above {242} that last mentioned, immediately on the
bank of the river; it contains about 100 dirt lodges, 500 families, or
2000 souls, making an aggregate of 6500 souls belonging to the three
villages. The name of their principal chief is the Knife Chief. A few
years since the Loup Pawnees had a custom of annually sacrificing a
human victim to the Great Star, but this was abolished by their present
chief, aided by the noble daring of his gallant son. They appear
unwilling to acknowledge their affinity with the other Pawnees; but
their language being very nearly the same, proves them to be of the
same origin.
Although these bands are independent of each other in all their
domestic concerns, government, &c., yet in their military operations
they generally unite, and warfare becomes a common cause with them.
Their arms are principally bows and arrows, lances, war-clubs, and
shields, with some few firearms. They are expert horsemen, but
generally fight on foot. They are more numerous, and accounted more
formidable in warfare, than any other combination of savages on
the Missouri. Their confidence in their own strength gives them a
disposition to domineer over their weaker neighbours. They are at war
with the Osages, Konzas, Sioux, Ietans, Kaskaias, Kiaways, Shiennes,
Crows, &c.
The several tribes above described cultivate maize or Indian corn,
pumpkins, beans, watermelons, and squashes. They hunt the bison or
buffaloe, elk, deer, beaver, otter; the skins of which they exchange
with the traders for fusees, powder, and lead, kettles, knives,
strouding, blankets, beads, vermilion, silver ornaments, and other
trinkets. They prefer the Mackinaw guns, blankets, &c., and will give a
higher price for them, knowing that they are greatly superior to those
furnished by American traders.
The Konzas and Osages, both of which reside in the vicinity of the
meridian assumed as the eastern boundary of this section, may here be
admitted to a more particular consideration than that already {243}
allowed them in this report. The Konzas Indians reside in a village of
earthen lodges, situated on the north side of the river bearing their
name, about one hundred miles from its mouth. Their village consists
of about 130 lodges, and contains about 1500 souls. This tribe was
formerly very troublesome to our traders, frequently robbing them of
their goods, but since the establishment of the upper posts on the
Missouri they have become very friendly. They are at war with most
of the other tribes and nations herein enumerated, except the Osages
and Otoes, with the last of whom they have lately made peace, through
the agency of Major O'Fallon, Indian agent for the Missouri. Several
Indians of the Missouri tribe reside with them.
The Osages are divided into three bands or tribes, called the Grand
Osage, the Little Osage, and Clermont's band; the two former of which
reside in permanent villages, situated on the head-waters of Osage
river, and the last upon the Verdigrise, about sixty miles from its
confluence with the Arkansa. According to Pike, whose estimate of their
numbers is probably near the truth, the Grand Osage band amounts to
1695, the Little Osage to 824, and Clermont's to 1500 souls, making
an aggregate of about 4000. These Indians are not accounted brave by
those inhabiting the country to the north and east of them, but are the
dread of those west and south of them. Although they have occasionally
been chargeable with depredations committed against the whites, they
have been provoked to the perpetration of them by aggressions or
trespasses on the part of the latter, or else the depredations have
been committed by malcontents of the nation, who will not be governed
by the counsel of their chiefs. These Indians hold the people and
government of the United States in the highest estimation, and have
repeatedly signified their strong desire to be instructed by them in
the arts of civilization. The United States have purchased from them
large and valuable tracts of country {244} for mere trifles, which the
Osages have been the more willing to relinquish, under the prospect
and encouragement given them, that the Americans would become their
neighbours and instructors. They are in a state of warfare with all the
surrounding tribes and nations of Indians, except the Konzas. It is
said, that they are about forming an alliance with the Sauks and Fox
Indians of the Mississippi, and that the latter are preparing to remove
to their country. They have recently driven the Pawnees of Red river
from their place of residence, and compelled them to seek an abode upon
the head waters either of the Brases or Colorado.
The Konzas and Osages are descendants from the same common origin with
the Otoes, Missouries, Ioways, Omawhaws, and Puncahs, to which may be
added the Quapaws, and several other tribes, not mentioned in this
report. The languages of all of them are radically the same, but are
now distinguished by a variety of dialects.
_Of the Arrapahoes, Kaskaias, Kiaways, Ietans, and Shiennes_
These nations have no permanent residences or villages, but roam,
sometimes in society and sometimes separately, over the tract of
country constituting the section last described. They hunt the bison
principally, and migrate from place to place in the pursuit of the
herds of that animal, upon the flesh of which they chiefly subsist.
Being thus accustomed to a roving life, they neglect the cultivation of
the soil, and are compelled to subsist almost exclusively upon animal
food. They formerly carried on a limited trade with the Spaniards of
Mexico, with whom they exchanged dressed bison-skins for blankets,
wheat, flour, maize, &c.; but their supplies of these articles are now
cut off by a war, which they at present are waging against that people.
They also, at distant periods, held a kind of fair on a tributary of
the {245} Platte, near the mountains (hence called Grand Camp creek),
at which they obtained British merchandize from the Shiennes of Shienne
river, who obtained the same at the Mandan village from the British
traders that frequent that part of our territory. Last winter they
traded a great number of horses and mules with a party of white men,
who had ascended Red river, but whence the party came from could not be
ascertained; it however appeared probable that they were citizens of
the United States, or possibly freebooters from Barataria.
The Shiennes associated with these wandering tribes are a small band of
seceders from the nation of the same name residing upon Shienne river.
They are said to be daring and ferocious. They are however kept under
restraint by the energy and firmness of their chief. The Bear Tooth,
who is the principal chief of the Arrapahoes, and the head chief of all
these nations, possesses great influence over the whole. His mandates,
which are uniformly characterized by discretion and propriety, are
regarded by his subjects as inviolable laws.
The Kaskaia and Kiaway languages are very difficult to acquire a
knowledge of. Our interpreter, who had lived several years with
them, could only make himself understood by the language of signs,
with the aid of a very few words of the Crow language, which many of
them appeared to understand. Indeed many of the individuals of these
different nations seemed to be ignorant of each other's language; for
when they met, they would communicate by means of signs, with now and
then an oral interjection, and would thus maintain a conversation,
apparently without the least difficulty or misapprehension.
These nations are at war with all the Missouri Indians, as far down as
the Osages, who are also included amongst their enemies; and it was
rumoured that hostilities had recently commenced between them and the
Shiennes, upon the river of the same name. {246} Their implements of
war consist of the bow and arrow, the lance, war-club, and shield. They
usually fight on horseback, and as horsemen display great skill and
activity. Their habitations are leather lodges, which serve them as
tents on the march, and dwellings at the places of their encampment.
Widely diffused as these Indians are, and never embodied, it is
impracticable even to conjecture their numbers with any degree of
probable accuracy. They rove not only throughout the section above
specified, but extensively within the range of the Rocky Mountains.
The foregoing remarks concerning the Indians of this part of the
country have been made for the most part agreeably to the suggestions
of Mr. Say, whose attention was particularly directed to researches
of this nature. But having been robbed of his notes upon the customs,
manners, traditions, &c. of the western Indians, by the men who
deserted from Captain Bell's party, he could give no farther account
of them than what his recollection could supply. Of the Konzas, Otoes,
Pawnees, and other Indians near the Council Bluff, his notes are
considerably extensive; but the vessel on board of which they, with
other articles, were shipped from New Orleans, having been obstructed
in her passage up the Delaware by ice, we have not yet received them.
_Observations embracing several traits of character common to the
Indians of the western country_