CHAPTER XXXVI.

AUSTRIA-HUNGARY.

Reference has already been made to the attitude of Hungary, in the

article on Hungary and Her Neighbors, toward Austria, and what is

true of Hungary is to a less extent true of Bohemia and the Polish

section of the empire. In fact, Austria-Hungary is held together by

a rope of sand, and there is no telling when that rope may break. It

required the aid of Russia to hold Hungary within the empire a half

century ago, and now that Russia is no longer in position to bolster

up the Hapsburg house, the outlook is not bright for the family of

Francis Joseph, unless the friendship of Emperor William takes the

form of armed assistance. I mention this because the anti-Austrian

feeling in Hungary, the anti-Hungarian feeling in Austria, the

aversion to the German language in Bohemia, and the demands of

the Polish subjects, not to speak of disaffection elsewhere, all

point to trouble ahead for the ruler of Austria-Hungary. I visited

Bohemia with a view to gathering information on the situation

and was surprised to find the hostility between the German and

Bohemian elements. A half century ago the German language was spoken

everywhere in Bohemia, but to-day the Germans and Bohemians have

separate schools and, except where business interest compels it

neither learns the language of the other. So strong is the feeling

that a Bohemian, desiring to master the German language, would,

if financially able, study it outside of Bohemia in preference to

attending a German school in his own country.

It is a great misfortune to the people of Hungary and Bohemia, as

well as to the imperial government, that this hostility to the

German language has become so bitter, for the German is one of the

great languages of the earth, being the spoken tongue of more than

fifty millions and containing in printed form most of the literary

treasures of the world. The German libraries are rich in treatises

on science and art, history and philosophy, government and religion,

and these should be within reach of the people of Hungary and

Bohemia. Whatever may be the merits of the Magyar and the Czech

languages, they are spoken by so few, comparatively, that they can

not possibly furnish so large a store of learning as the German

language contains.

The Austrian government, however, has itself to blame for the

estrangement; for, instead of attempting to win the affections of

the alien people made subject to it, it attempted to coerce them,

with the usual result. Resentment toward the rulers soon turned into

resentment toward the language, and it became patriotic to abhor a

tongue which it would have been advantageous to cultivate. Human

nature is the same everywhere, but kings seem to be as ignorant of

it as they are of the lessons of history.

The Austria-Hungary empire can not exist long under its present

regime; if it is to continue, the bond of union must be a

substantial one and no bond of union is substantial that does not

knit itself about the hearts of both parties to the union. There are

certain advantages to be derived from the association of several

small states together, but these advantages can not be weighed

against fundamental rights or against a strong national sentiment.

Cold, calculating statesmen sometimes underestimate the influence

of sentiment, but they usually discover their error, sometimes

too late, if they attempt to trample upon it. Austria-Hungary

as a federation of states, each absolutely independent in its

internal affairs, would be strong, but Austria-Hungary, composed

of dissatisfied groups, all yielding unwillingly to an arrogant

Austrian influence, is pitiably weak.

The tie which holds Canada, Australia and New Zealand to England

is infinitely stronger than that which binds Hungary and Bohemia

to the Austria-Hungarian throne. And why? Not because they use the

same language, for the American colonies wrote the Declaration of

Independence in the same tongue that George III. employed. Canada,

Australia and New Zealand are loyal to England because England

allows them to do as they please. If a British parliament acted

toward these colonies as the imperial government acts toward Hungary

and Bohemia, even a common language and a common history could not

prevent a separation. "There is a scattering that increaseth," says

Solomon, "and a withholding of more than is meet, but it tendeth

to penury." The proverb can be applied to governments, and Francis

Joseph might consider it with profit.

It must be remembered that Bohemia is no insignificant part of

the empire. It has an area of twenty thousand square miles and a

population of more than six millions, and is rich in minerals and in

manufactures. It is noted for glass works, Bohemian glass having a

world-wide reputation. It has important textile industries also, and

its agriculture has been carried to a high state of perfection. It

has played a conspicuous part in the history of central Europe, is

rich in heroes and possesses a strong national spirit.

Prague, its capital city, has long been an educational center and

is still the seat of its intellectual as well as its political

life. There is a very complete industrial school at the capital,

which contributes in no small degree to the country's prominence in

manufacturing. Just now Bohemia is the Mecca for violinists, America

contributing her quota of students.

John Huss's church is still one of Prague's landmarks, although the

Catholic Church has regained its supremacy. The Hradschin and the

public buildings surrounding the Hradschiner Platz are of historic

interest, as is also the old Jewish burying ground.

Our American consul at Prague, Mr. Ledoux, has inaugurated a very

praiseworthy index system for the collection and preservation of

information of value to importers and exporters. He has converted

one room of the consular office into a reading room where American

trade papers are kept for the business public and where a list of

American exporters with a description of their wares may be examined

by those desiring to purchase. It is an application of the public

library system to trade and struck me as likely to be of value in

increasing our sales.

Carlsbad is only a few hours ride from Prague, and I took advantage

of that fact to visit it. It is built along the narrow and winding

valley of the Tepl and is nearly twelve hundred feet above the

sea. It has been a health resort for some six or seven centuries

and is now visited yearly by more than fifty thousand invalids.

The water is hot, and the numerous springs seem to come from a

common reservoir. The principal spring, called the Sprudel, has

a temperature of one hundred and sixty-four degrees and contains

sulphate of soda, carbonate of soda and common salt. The solid

substances deposited by the water soon form into a very hard rock

which takes a polish like marble. These deposits gather so rapidly

that all pipes leading from the springs, and the springs themselves,

must be frequently cleaned or they would soon be choked up.

Liver complaint is the disease which brings most visitors to

Carlsbad, and I was surprised to find that, instead of being a

fashionable resort, a majority of the patrons are of the middle

classes. It is a city of boarding houses and small hotels with a

few larger establishments. By eleven o'clock P. M., the streets are

deserted and the town asleep, probably because the early morning

is the time for drinking the water. I rose at five and with our

vice consul at Prague, Mr. Weissburger, as my guide, hurried to

the springs; the invalids were even then beginning to come forth,

each with his mug, and soon there was a swarm of them. The city has

erected large pavilions at several of the springs, and at two of

these bands play between six and eight. By 6:30 the streets were

crowded and the pavilions jammed. The numerous attendants were kept

busy filling the mugs (which are put into long handled holders) from

the gushing fountains. At the time of the Lisbon earthquake the

largest spring is said to have ceased its flow for three days.

[Illustration: CARLSBAD]

Riding through Bohemia at this time of the year, one sees a great

deal of fine farming land, the only unpleasant feature being the

number of women at work in the fields and along the roads. The more

one sees of the world, the more he can appreciate the remark of

the witty Frenchman, Max O'Rell, who, in his lecture on "Her Royal

Highness, Woman," declares that if he were going to be born one of

that sex, he would pray to be born in America. Woman's position in

our country is not only vastly superior to her position in Asia,

but very much better than the position of the average woman in

continental Europe.

Vienna is not only the capital of the Austria-Hungarian empire, but

is one of the greatest cities of Europe. It is worth visiting for

its architecture alone, its public buildings combining massiveness

and grace. It is also rich in monuments and statuary and well

supplied with drives, parks and places of amusement. The boulevards

are lined with restaurants, each with a large yard filled with

tables and chairs, the refreshments being served in the open air

during the summer months. These places are thronged in the evening

and on Sunday afternoon, families often bringing their lunch baskets

and buying their coffee or beer at the restaurant.

The coffee houses, as they are found in Vienna, deserve mention.

These are scattered all over the city and are very popular.

Newspapers are usually kept on file and the customers read the

events of the day while they sip their coffee or beer.

Vienna is a musical center, and its theaters are not surpassed

anywhere. We attended a production of Faust there, a French opera

built upon Goethe's great drama, and found the theater constructed

with a special view to the accommodation of a large orchestra. Nor

is it strange that music should be so distinguishing a feature of

Viennese life when it is remembered that it was the home of Strauss,

of Haydn, of Mozart, of Shubert and of Beethoven, not to speak of a

number of lesser lights.

Vienna is also famous for its educational institutions. Its

university has an honorable record of more than five centuries, and

its medical college is attended by students from every land.

Vienna is also an example in the matter of municipal ownership,

it having gone beyond all the other cities on the continent in the

taking over of what are known as the natural monopolies. It finds

it not only possible to own and operate its water works, lighting

plants and tramways, but it finds it profitable to do so; the

profits which, under private ownership, go to the stockholders,

accruing in Vienna to the whole people. So successful is municipal

ownership in practice that opposition to the principle has been

silenced. Those who, in the United States, are struggling in spite

of the influence of organized wealth, exerted through subsidized

newspapers, corrupted councils and sometimes even through a biased

judiciary, to restore the streets of our cities to the public, can

find encouragement in Vienna's experience. The conflict can have but

one end, namely, triumph for municipal ownership. "Sorrow may endure

for a night, but joy cometh in the morning."

Austria-Hungary has a well developed system of forestry; I noticed

this on a former visit and made inquiries about it this time.

There is a law compelling the planting of a tree whenever one is

cut down, and not content with maintaining the present number,

the denuded hills are being replanted. It seems difficult to turn

public attention to any subject until some abuse has made action

imperative, but the sooner our country awakes to the danger involved

in the destruction of our timber, the less we shall be compelled to

suffer for the enormous waste committed in our forests.

I have been intending for some time to speak of the matter of

permanent buildings for our embassies, and Vienna is a case in

point. Our ambassador at Vienna, Mr. Francis, has had difficulty in

finding a suitable place for the embassy. I discussed the subject

during my former visit abroad, and my observations on this trip have

still further strengthened the opinion that our country owes it to

itself, as well as its representatives, to purchase or erect at each

of the foreign capitals a permanent embassy building. At present

each new ambassador or minister must begin his official career

with a house-hunting expedition, and the local landlords, knowing

this, are quick to take advantage of the situation. At one place

an American ambassador was recently asked to pay double what his

predecessor had paid, and as he was not willing to do this, he is

still living at a hotel. There are not many suitable buildings from

which to select, and our representative is at the mercy of those who

control the limited supply. Diplomatic requirements are such that

the embassy must be centrally located and sufficiently commodious

to enable the ambassador or minister to return the courtesies which

he receives. Small apartments are numerous, and there are a few

palaces which can be rented, but the former are not large enough

and the latter much larger than necessary. Our government ought to

own a building conveniently located and suitable for the offices and

home of the ambassador. It must either do this or choose between two

systems, both of which are bad, viz., compel the representative to

spend more than his salary for house rent, or continually increase

the salary of diplomatic representatives to keep pace with the

growing rent in the capitals of the world. To throw the burden

upon the government's representative is undemocratic; to risk

constantly increasing rent is false economy. It is not in harmony

with our theory of government to have an important branch of the

public service open to rich men only, and that is the case under the

present system. No poor man can afford to accept an appointment as

an American minister or ambassador to any of the principal countries

of Europe, and as the years go by, the expense of a diplomatic

residence will become greater as the value of urban property

increases. While the telegraph and the cable have considerably

decreased the responsibility of the foreign representative, by

bringing him into closer contact with the home government, still

much depends upon the ability, the sagacity and the discretion of

those whom we send abroad. Our government ought to be in a position

to select from the whole citizen body those most competent for

the work to be entrusted to them, and it goes without saying that

efficiency in the public service is not measured by the amount of

money which an official has either inherited or accumulated.

There is another argument in favor of the building of permanent

embassy buildings which ought to have weight with our people. If

diplomatic representatives are chosen only from those who are able

to spend more than their official incomes, it naturally follows

that some will be richer than others and that the establishments

maintained will differ in expensiveness. In fact, experience has

shown that a new representative is sometimes embarrassed by the

lavish expenditures of a preceding one. The standing of our nation

abroad demands that our ambassadors and ministers shall live in a

style in keeping with our ideas, and extravagance is as offensive

as parsimony. By owning its own embassy buildings our government

can regulate the standard of living and entertainment of those who

represent it at foreign courts. There is no doubt that our nation

must ultimately come to this plan, and the sooner it adopts it, the

better.[9]

[9] Since the writing of the above congress has appropriated a sum

for the purchase of embassy buildings, and a beginning has been made

by the purchase of a building in Constantinople.

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