CHAPTER XI.

Of the winds, currents, and navigation along the east coast of Terra

Australis, both without and within the tropic; also on the north coast.

Directions for sailing from Port Jackson, through Torres' Strait, towards

India or the Cape of Good Hope.

Advantages of this passage over that round New Guinea.

[EAST COAST. WINDS AND CURRENTS.]

On completing the first portion of the voyage, I entered into an

explanation of the winds and currents which had been found to prevail

upon the south coast of Terra Australis; and to obtain greater

perspicuity and connection, I there anticipated upon the second portion

so far as those subjects required. This plan of assembling at the end of

each book such general observations upon the coast immediately before

examined as could not enter conveniently into the narrative, seeming

liable to no material objection, I shall follow it here; and conclude

this second part of the voyage with a statement of the winds and currents

which appear to prevail most generally along the East and North Coasts;

adding thereto such remarks, more particularly on Torres' Strait, as may

tend to the safety of navigation. This statement will include the

information gained in a subsequent passage, for the reasons which

influenced me in the former account; and the reader must not be

surprised, should he remark hereafter that I did not, in that passage,

follow very closely the directions here given; for besides that my

information was then possessed only in part, the directions are intended,

not for vessels seeking dangers, which was partly my object, but for

those desirous only of navigating these distant shores with expedition

and safety.

The East Coast, with respect to winds and currents, requires a division,

the part beyond the tropic of Capricorn being placed under different, and

almost opposite circumstances, to that within, or close to it. (Atlas,

Plate I.)

From Cape Howe, where the South Coast terminates and the East commences,

to Sandy Cape, within a degree of the tropic, the south-east trade most

generally prevails in the summer season, from the beginning of October to

the end of April; and produces sea and land breezes near the shore, with

fine weather. There are however many occasional intermissions, especially

in the southern parts, wherein gales from South or S. W., and strong

breezes between North and N. E., bring heavy rain, with thunder and

lightning; but these are usually of short duration. A sultry land wind

from the N. W. in the summer, is almost certainly followed by a sudden

gust from between S. E. and S. S. W., against which a ship near the coast

should be particularly guarded; I have seen the thermometer descend at

Port Jackson, on one of these occasions, from 100° to 64° in less than

half an hour.

In the winter season, from May to September, the western winds are most

prevalent, and generally accompanied with fine weather; the gales then

blow from the eastward, between north-east and south, and bring rain with

them; indeed there is no settled weather in the winter, with any winds

from the sea, and even between north-west and north there is frequent

rain, though the wind be usually light in those quarters. It is however

to be understood, that the sea and land breezes in the summer are more

regular near the tropic; and that the winter winds partake more of the

south-east trade than they do from latitude 30° to Cape Howe.

It is a fact difficult to be reconciled, that whilst the most prevailing

winds blow from S. E. in summer, and S. W. in winter, upon this

extra-tropical part of the East Coast, the current should almost

constantly set to the south; at a rate which sometimes reaches two miles

an hour. Its greatest strength is exerted near to the points which

project most beyond the general line of the coast; but the usual limits

of its force may be reckoned at from four, to twenty leagues from the

land. Further out, there seems to be no constancy in the current; and

close in with the shore, especially in the bights, there is commonly an

eddy setting to the northward, from a quarter, to one mile an hour. It is

in the most southern parts that the current runs strongest, and towards

Cape Howe it takes a direction to the eastward of south; whereas in other

places, it usually follows the line of the coast.

This exposition of the winds and currents beyond the tropic, points out

the advantage of keeping at not more than three or four leagues from the

land, when sailing northward and intending to touch on the coast; but in

the winter season this must be done with caution, because gales then

often blow from the eastward. A marine barometer will here be of signal

advantage. If the weather be tolerably fine, and the mercury do not stand

above 30 inches, there is no probability of danger; but when the mercury

much exceeds this elevation and the weather is becoming thick, a gale is

to be apprehended; and a ship should immediately steer off, until it is

seen how far the wind veers to blow dead on the coast. With respect to a

rise and fall in the marine barometer, it may be taken as a general rule

upon this East Coast, that a rise denotes either a fresher wind in the

quarter where it then may be, or that it will veer more to seaward; and a

fall denotes less wind or a breeze more off the land; moreover, the

mercury rises highest with a south-east, and falls lowest with a

north-west wind; and north-east and south-west are points of mean

elevation.

The shelter for ships which may be caught so suddenly as not to be able

to clear the land, are these: Two-fold Bay, for vessels of four-hundred

tons and under; Jervis and Botany Bays, Port Jackson, and Broken Bay;

Port Hunter for brigs and small craft; Port Stephens; Shoal Bay for

vessels not exceeding fifty tons; Glass-house Bay; and lastly Hervey's

Bay, by going round Break-sea Spit. All these places will be found in

Plates VI, VIII, IX, and X. of the Atlas, with particular plans of the

entrances to some of them. Directions for Port Jackson, and Botany and

Broken Bays are given by captain Hunter in his voyage; and they may be

found in Horsburgh's _East-India Directory_, Part II, p. 465-468.

Two-fold Bay is described in the Introduction to this voyage, and mention

made of Jervis, Shoal, Glass-house, and Hervey's Bays.

A ship sailing along this coast to the southward, should not, to have the

advantage of the current, come nearer than five or six leagues unless to

the projecting points; and if the distance were doubled, so as to have

the land just in sight, an advantage would be found in it; and such an

offing obviates the danger of the gales.

Whilst western winds prevail on the southern parts of the East Coast, the

south-east trade blows with most regularity within, and close to the

tropic, producing sea and land breezes near the shore, and serenity in

the atmosphere; and the further we go northward the longer does this fine

weather last, till, near Cape York, it commences with the month of April,

probably even March, and extends to the middle or end of November. How

the winds blow from November to April, I have no experience; but there is

great reason to believe that they come from the northward, and make the

wet season here, whilst dry weather prevails beyond the tropic. In Broad

Sound and Shoal-water Bay we had more northern winds than any other, in

the month of September; but these appeared to be altogether local, caused

by the peculiar formation of the coast; for they did not bring any rain,

though it was evidently near the end of the dry season, and we found the

south-east trade wind before losing sight of the land.

[NORTH COAST. WINDS AND CURRENTS.]

The North Coast appears to have the same winds, with a little exception,

as the tropical part of the East Coast. From March or April to November,

the south-east trade prevails; often veering, however, to east, and even

north-east, and producing fine weather, with sea and land breezes near

the shore. At the head of the Gulph of Carpentaria, the north-west

monsoon began to blow at the end of November; but further westward, at

the northern Van Diemen's Land, I apprehend it will set in at the

beginning of that month, and continue till near the end of March. This is

the season of heavy rains, thunder, and lightning, and should seem, from

our experience, to be the sickly time of the year.

It is thought to be a general rule, that a monsoon blowing directly in

from the sea, produces rain, and from off the land, fine weather, with

sea and land breezes; this I found exemplified on the west side of the

Gulph of Carpentaria, where the rainy north-west monsoon, which then came

off the land, brought fine weather: the rain came with eastern winds,

which set in occasionally and blew strong for two or three days together.

It seems even possible, that what may be the dry season on the North

Coast in general, may be the most rainy on the west side of the Gulph;

but of this I have doubts.

According to Dampier, the winds and seasons on the north-west coast of

Terra Australis are nearly the same as above mentioned upon the North

Coast; but he found the sea and land breezes, during the south-east

monsoon, to blow with much greater strength.

In speaking of the currents, I return to the tropical part of the East

Coast. Within the Barrier Reefs, it is not the current, for there is

almost none, but the tides which demand attention; and these, so far as

they came under my observation, have been already described, and are

marked on the charts. At a distance from the barrier there is a current

of some strength, at least during the prevalence of south-east winds; but

instead of setting southward, as I have described it to do from Sandy

Cape to Cape Howe, the current follows the direction of the trade wind,

and sets to the north-west, with some variation on either side, at the

rate of half a mile, and from thence to one mile an hour. This I found to

continue amongst the reefs of Torres' Strait, nearly as far as Murray's

Islands; but from thence onward through the strait, its direction in

October was nearly west, something more than half a mile; and so

continued across the Gulph of Carpentaria to Cape Arnhem, with a little

inclination toward the south.

Along the north coast of Terra Australis, the current seems to run as the

wind blows. In March, before the south-east monsoon was regularly set in,

I found no determinate current until the end of the month, when Timor was

in sight, and it then set westward, three quarters of a mile an hour; but

in the November following, I carried it all the way from Cape Arnhem, as

captain Bligh had done from Torres' Strait in September 1792; the rate

being from half a mile to one mile and a quarter in the hour.

The navigation along the tropical part of the East Coast, within the

Barrier Reefs, is not likely to be soon followed, any more than that

round the shores of the Gulph of Carpentaria; nor does much remain to be

said upon them, beyond what will be found in this Book II, and in the

charts; and in speaking of the outer navigation, my remarks will be more

perspicuous and useful if I accompany a ship from Port Jackson, through

Torres' Strait; pointing out the courses to be steered, and the

precautions to be taken for avoiding the dangers. It is supposed that the

ship has a time keeper, whose rate of going and error from mean Greenwich

time have been found at Sydney Cove, taking its longitude at 151° 11' 49"

east; and that the commander is not one who feels alarm at the mere sight

of breakers: without a time keeper I scarcely dare recommend a ship to go

through Torres' Strait; and from timidity in the commander, perhaps more

danger is to be anticipated than from rashness. The best season for

sailing is June or July; and it must not be earlier than March, nor later

than the end of September.

[NORTH COAST. SAILING DIRECTIONS.]

On quitting Port Jackson, the course to be steered is N. E. by E. by

compass, to longitude about 155½°, when the land will be fifty leagues

off; then North, also by compass, as far as latitude 24°. Thus far no

danger lies in the way; but there is then the _Cato's Bank_, a dry sand

frequented by birds and surrounded with a reef (Atlas, Plate X), and

further northward is _Wreck Reef_, both discovered in the future part of

this voyage. Wreck Reef consists of six distinct patches of coral,

extending twenty miles east and west; upon four of them there are dry

banks, also frequented by birds, and the easternmost bank is covered with

wiry grass and some shrubs, and is called _Bird Islet_. Their situations

are these:

Cato's Bank 23° 6' south, 155° 23' east

Bird Islet 22 11½ 155 27

The bearing and distance of these dangers must be successively worked,

and a course steered so as to leave them half a degree to the westward;

but for fear of an error in the time keeper the latitude 23° 20' should

not be passed in the night. It is better to make short tacks till

daylight, than to heave to; and allowance should be made for a probable

current of one mile an hour to the north-west. A good lookout must be

constantly kept; and a confidential officer should now go to the masthead

every two hours in the day and to the fore yard at night, to listen as

well as look; for in dark nights the breakers may often be heard before

they can be seen. It will not be amiss, if the time of the day be

favourable, to make Bird Islet, which is well settled, in order to see

how the longitude by time keeper agrees; and should it err, the

difference, or more, must be added to, or subtracted from its future

longitudes; for it is most probable that the error will continue to

augment the same way, more especially if the time keeper be a good one.

[TORRES STRAIT. SAILING DIRECTIONS.]

(Atlas, Plate I.)

Having passed Wreck Reef, there are no other _known_ dangers near the

route for Torres' Strait, till we come to _Diana's Bank_; but as others

may exist, it will be prudent to lie to, or preferably to make short

tacks in the night, during the rest of the passage to the Strait. In

light nights, however, and moderate weather, there would be not much risk

in closely following the Cumberland's track, carrying no more sail than

will allow of the ship being conveniently hauled to the wind; but if an

unusual number of boobies and gannets be seen in the evening, there is

strong suspicion of a bank and reef being near; and the direction which

the birds take, if they all go one way as is usual in an evening, will

nearly show its bearing. The longitude of Diana's Bank, according to M.

de Bougainville, is 151° 19' from Greenwich; but his longitude at the New

Hebrides, some days before, was 54' too far east, according to captain

Cook; and it is therefore most probable, that Diana's Bank lies in 15°

41' south, 150° 25' east.

I should steer, after passing Wreck Reef, so as to go a full degree to

the east of this position; and having so done, the next object of

attention is the Eastern Fields, reefs which lie a degree from those

where Torres' Strait may be said to commence. The position to be worked

is, Eastern Fields (Atlas, Plate XIII), north-east end, 10° 2' south,

145° 45' east; and from this I would pass half a degree to the eastward.

But if the Strait should be attempted without a time keeper, it will be

advisable for a ship to make that part of New Guinea lying in about 10°

south and 147¾° east, which may be seen as far as twelve or fifteen

leagues in clear weather; and having corrected the dead-reckoning

longitude by this land, to allow afterwards eighteen miles a day for a

current setting to the W. N. W. The best latitude for passing the Eastern

Fields, is 9° 45' to 50', steering a W. by S. course, by compass; and it

will afterwards be proper, so long as there is daylight and no reefs

seen, to carry all sail for the Pandora's Entrance, which is the best

opening yet known to the Strait. It is formed by reefs, and is eleven or

twelve miles wide, and lies, Pandora's Entrance, the middle, in 9° 54'

S., 144° 42' E. and it is very possible, if the Eastern Fields be passed

in the morning, to get through without seeing the breakers, and obtain a

sight of Murray's Islands before dark. But it is most probable that reefs

will be first met with; and should the latitude of the ship be then

uncertain, even to 5', the wind must be hauled until an observation can

be had, for it is by the latitude alone that the first reefs can be

distinguished one from the other.

The reefs being in sight and the latitude known, a ship will steer for

the Pandora's Entrance, if she can fetch it; but if too much to the

north, she may pass round the north end of Portlock's Reef, and haul up

S. W. for Murray's Islands, which are visible eight or ten leagues from

the deck in fine weather. (See View No. 10 in Plate XVIII. of the Atlas.)

It is best to approach these islands from the N. E. by N., following the

Investigator's track, and to anchor the first night on the north side of

the largest island, or otherwise under the reefs which lie to the

north-east; but if neither can be reached before dark, haul to the wind

and make short trips till daylight, in the space between these reefs and

Portlock's Reef.

Murray's Islands should not be passed, or quitted if the ship have

anchored there, later than ten or eleven o'clock in the morning; because

the sun will be getting ahead and obscure the sight before another good

anchorage can be secured. On passing the islands, keep the reef which

lies five miles to the north about a mile on the starbord hand, steering

W. ½ S. by compass, with a boat ahead; for in this part there are many

tide ripplings scarcely to be distinguished from the reefs. Having passed

the ripplings, haul a point more to the southward; and after having run

eight or ten miles, from the time that the largest island bore south,

there will be very few reefs to the northward, and Darnley's Island will

be seen. On the larbord hand there will be a great mass of reefs: and

these it is necessary to follow at the distance of two or three miles,

steering mostly W. S. W., and gradually more southward as they are found

to trend. Some small patches will occasionally be met with; but having

the boat to go ahead, and the commander, or a careful officer looking out

aloft, the Investigator's track between them may be safely followed. The

leading mark in all this part of the course, is the line of the great

south-eastern reefs; and the situation of the ship may be known at any

time, by laying down cross bearings of Murray's and Darnley's Islands on

the chart, allowing, if the ship's head be westward and the compass on

the top of the binnacle, 5° of east variation.

Several low, woody isles will come in sight ahead, or on the starbord

bow; and before reaching the end of the south-eastern reefs, _Hay-way

Island_, which is the southernmost of them, will be seen to the

southwest; and here I would recommend the ship to anchor for the night.

If this island can be passed, however, before three in the afternoon, and

the sun do not obscure the sight, she may push on south-westward till an

hour before sunset; and anchor under the lee of any of those sand banks

which lie in the route, the ground being better here than in the eastern

part of the Strait.

From Half-way Island, continue to follow the Investigator's track,

steering S. W. to S. W. by W. by compass, as the small reefs and banks

will allow; and here there is no necessity for a boat to be kept ahead.

The flat top of one of the York Isles, called Mount Adolphus by captain

Bligh, will be the first high land seen, and afterwards Mount Ernest; the

cross bearings of which will show the situation on the chart, until the

Double Isle, which makes as two small hummocks, comes in sight. Steer

then for Double Isle, pass on the north side, and haul south-westward for

Wednesday Island, which will be three leagues distant. Pass it also on

the north side, about one mile, and the same by Hammond's Island, which

lies next to it. There will be an extensive reef on the starbord hand,

but the smallest distance between it and the islands is above two miles;

and a W. S. W. course by compass, will lead fair through the passage,

with soundings from 9 to 6 fathoms. Booby Isle will presently be seen

a-head, appearing at first like a white sand bank; it may be passed

within a mile or two on either side, and is the last of the dangers, if

it can be classed under them, of Torres' Strait. A ship should afterwards

steer, by compass, W. by S. thirty or forty miles; and the course may

then be directed for any part of the world.

In case the approach of night, or any other circumstance should make it

desirable, shelter may be had under the Prince of Wales' Islands, or

under Booby Isle; and if a boat be sent on shore at dusk to Booby Isle,

many birds, and perhaps some turtle' may be procured.

This passage through Torres' Strait will occupy from three to five days,

according to the freshness of the south-east trade, and the degree of

caution which a commander may see necessary to employ.* He will, of

course, sound continually, though it have not been specified; and keep a

boat ahead with sounding signals, from the time of passing Murray's Isles

till Half-way Island is in sight, and wherever else there appears to him

a necessity. Should he miss the Investigator's track in any part, which

is very possible, there is no occasion for alarm; most, if not all the

inner reefs have deep channels through them at every four or five miles,

and by these he may regain the track, with the assistance of his boat.

[* The most expeditious passage known to have been made through the

Strait, previously to the Investigator, was that of captains Bligh and

Portlock, in nineteen days; the account of which, as also, that of

Messrs. Bampton and Alt in the Introduction, a commander should

previously read with the chart before him; and if he do the same with the

passage of the Investigator, in Chapter V. of this Book II., and that of

the Cumberland in Chapter III. following, he will have a tolerably

correct notion of the dangers in Torres' Strait, and of the advantage in

pursuing the route above described.]

The following precautions must not be neglected: a strict and constant

look-out at the mast head, by the commander or his most confidential

officer, all the time that the ship is amongst the reefs--not to pass

Murray's Islands without seeing them, since they are the leading mark for

getting into the proper track--and on anchoring there, or at any other

inhabited island, a strict watch must be kept on the natives, who will

come off in canoes to barter a few cocoa-nuts, plantains, and their arms,

for hatchets and other iron ware. No boat should be sent to an island

where there are inhabitants; but if distress make it necessary, two or

three should go together, well armed; for they will certainly be

attacked, if the Indians have been able to lay a plan and collect their

strength. A British seaman will, at the same time, studiously avoid all

cause of quarrel with these poor misguided people, and not fire upon them

but where self-defence makes it indispensable.

Most of the dry sands and the uninhabited islands in the Strait appear to

be frequented by turtle; and in the month of August, September, or later,

it is probable some might be taken by landing a party of men, who should

silently watch for their coming on shore at dusk. I do not know the kind

of turtle most common in the Strait; at Booby Isle they were hawkes-bill,

which furnish the finest tortoise shell, but are small and not the best

for food.

The advantage in point of time, which this route presents to a ship bound

from the Great Ocean to India, or to the Cape of Good Hope, will be best

seen by a statement of two passages made at the same season; the one by

Torres' Strait, the other round New Guinea.

I sailed from Port Jackson in company with the Bridgewater, an extra

East-Indiaman; and we made Wreck Reef in eight days. From thence the

Bridgewater steered round Louisiade, through Bougainville's Strait,

Dampier's Strait, Pitt's Passage, and the Strait of Salayer; and arrived

at Batavia in _eighty-eight days_. I left Wreck Reef some time afterward,

in a small schooner of twenty-nine tons; took ten days to reach Torres'

Strait, three to pass through it, seventeen to reach Coepang Bay, and ten

more to pass the longitude of Java Head. Adding to these the eight days

to Wreck Reef, the passage from Port Jackson to Java Head was

_forty-eight days_, including various deviations and stoppages for

surveying; and it was principally made in a vessel which sailed no more

than four or five knots, when the Bridgewater would have gone six or

eight. The difference, nevertheless, in favour of Torres' Strait, was

forty days; so that it seems within bounds to say, that in going from

Port Jackson to India or the Cape of Good Hope, it offers an advantage

over the northern route of six weeks; and of four weeks in going from the

more eastern parts of the Great Ocean. In point of safety, I know not

whether Torres' Strait have not also the advantage; for although it be

certainly more dangerous than any one of the eastern passages, it is

doubtful whether it be more so than a four or six weeks extra navigation

amongst the straits and islands to the east and north of New Guinea,

where some new shoal, bank, or island is discovered by every vessel going

that way. For myself, I should not hesitate to prefer Torres' Strait,

were it only on this account; considering the long continuance of the

danger in one case, as being more than a counterbalance to the superior

degree of it in the other.

With respect to a passage through Torres' Strait in the opposite

direction--from the Indian Sea to the Great Ocean--it has not, to my

knowledge, been attempted; and I have some doubt of its practicability. A

ship would have an advantage in entering the strait by its least

dangerous side; but as the passage could be made only in December,

January, or February, the rainy squally weather which probably will then

prevail, would augment the danger from the reefs ten fold. The experiment

is therefore too hazardous for any except a ship on discovery; whose

business it is to encounter, and even to seek danger, when it may produce

any important benefit to geography and navigation.

BOOK III.

OCCURRENCES FROM THE TIME OF QUITTING PORT JACKSON, IN 1803,

ARRIVING IN ENGLAND IN 1810.

CHAPTER I.

Departure from Port Jackson in the Porpoise,

accompanied by the Bridgewater and Cato.

The Cato's Bank.

Shipwreck of the Porpoise and Cato in the night.

The crews get on a sand bank; where they are left by the Bridgewater.

Provisions saved.

Regulations on the bank.

Measures adopted for getting back to Port Jackson.

Description of Wreck-Reef Bank.

Remarks on the loss of M. de La Pérouse.

[EAST COAST. PORT JACKSON]

1803

The third volume of my log book and journal having been lost in the

events which succeeded the decay of the Investigator, I have had recourse

to a memorandum book and to officers journals to supply the dates and

leading facts contained in the first three chapters following;

fortunately, my bearings and the astronomical observations taken by

lieutenant Flinders and myself were preserved, as also were the rough

charts, with one exception; so that there are few cases where this

department of the voyage will have materially suffered. There are,

however, many circumstances related in these chapters, which either do

not enter at all, or are slightly mentioned in the officers journals; for

these, my public papers and copies of letters have principally furnished

materials, and a tolerably faithful memory has supplied the rest. It

seemed necessary to explain this, that the reader may know to what the

deficiencies and abridgments in some parts of these chapters are to be

attributed; and this being premised, I resume the narrative of our

preparations for returning to England.

20 JULY 1803

On July 20, lieutenant Fowler quitted the Investigator, with the crew

selected for him, and took the command of His Majesty's armed vessel

_Porpoise_; and on the following day I went on board with the rest of my

officers and people, to go with him as passengers. Amongst other

preparations for the voyage, a green house was set up on the quarter deck

of that ship; and the plants collected in the Investigator from the

south, the east, and north coasts of Terra Australis were deposited in

it, to be conveyed to His Majesty's botanical garden at Kew; and as we

had had the misfortune to lose the gardener of the expedition, and Mr.

Brown, the naturalist, remained behind, a man from Port Jackson was

engaged to take care of the plants during the passage.

The examination of Torres' Strait was one of the most important articles

of my instructions which had been executed only in part; and although I

could not pretend to make any regular survey in the Porpoise, it was yet

desirable to pass again through the strait, and lay down as many more of

its dangers as circumstances would admit; and this being represented to

governor King, the following paragraph was made an article in lieutenant

Fowler's orders.

"The objects which captain Flinders will have to finish in his route

through Torres' Strait, requires that he should be assisted with boats,

people, and have the entire direction of the ship as to the courses she

is to steer, making and shortening sail, anchoring, and every other

prompt attention to his directions as connected with his survey. You are

therefore further required to comply with every direction he may give

you, to enable him to execute the orders of my Lords Commissioners of the

Admiralty; and as it will be necessary that the most expeditious route

should be followed, for the purpose of ascertaining the length of time it

will take to make the voyage from hence to England, by Torres' Strait,

and to enable captain Flinders to be in England as early as possible, you

will take especial care to lose no time in getting to England by the

route captain Flinders may indicate."

AUGUST 1803

In the beginning of August, the Porpoise was nearly ready to sail; and

two ships then lying in Sydney Cove, bound to Batavia, desired leave to

accompany us through the Strait. These were the Hon. East-India-Company's

extra-ship Bridgewater, of about 750 tons, commanded by E. H. Palmer,

Esq., and the ship Cato of London, of about 450 tons, commanded by Mr.

John Park. The company of these ships gave me pleasure; for if we should

be able to make a safe and expeditious passage through the strait with

them, of which I had but little doubt, it would be a manifest proof of

the advantage of the route discovered in the Investigator, and tend to

bring it into general use. On the 10th [WEDNESDAY 10 AUGUST 1803] I took

leave of my respected friend the governor of New South Wales, and

received his despatches for England; and lieutenant Fowler having given a

small code of signals to the Bridgewater and Cato, we sailed out of Port

Jackson together, at eleven o'clock of the same morning, and steered

north-eastward for Torres' Strait.

Mr. Inman had re-delivered to me the two time-keepers, with a table of

their rates deduced from equal altitudes, but the No. 543 had gone so

very irregularly, as not to be entitled to any confidence; the error of

No. 520 from mean Greenwich time at noon there on the 2nd, and its rate

of going during the twenty-five preceding days were as under:

Earnshaw's No. 520, fast, 0h 49' 54.85" and losing 33.38" per day.

[EAST COAST. STEERING NORTHWARD.]

(Atlas, Plate I.)

The winds were light, and mostly from the eastward during the first two

days of our quitting Port Jackson; and not being able to get far enough

from the land to avoid the southern current, it had retarded us 35' on

the 12th at noon [FRIDAY 12 AUGUST 1803], when the islands of Port

Stephens were in sight. On the following day the wind became more steady

in the south-western quarter, and as our distance from the land

increased, the current abated; and on the 15th, when the latitude was 27°

27', longitude 156° 22', and distance from the coast about fifty leagues,

the set was something in our favour. The wind was then at south, and our

course steered was north for twenty-four hours, then N. by W.; and on the

17th at noon [WEDNESDAY 17 AUGUST 1803] we were in latitude 23° 22',

longitude 155° 34', and had the wind at S. E. by S. (Atlas, Plate X.)

Soon after two o'clock, the Cato being some distance on our larbord

quarter made the signal for seeing land. This proved to be a dry sand

bank, which bore S. S. W. about three leagues; and the Porpoise sailing

faster than the other ships, they were directed to keep on their course

whilst we hauled up to take a nearer view of the bank. At three o'clock,

when it bore S. by E. five or six miles, we hove to and sounded but had

no bottom at 80 fathoms. The _Cato's Bank_, for so it was named, is small

and seemed to be destitute of vegetation; there was an innumerable

quantity of birds hovering about, and it was surrounded with breakers;

but their extent seemed very little to exceed that of the bank, nor could

any other reef near it be discovered. The situation was ascertained to be

nearly 23° 6' south, and 155° 23' east; and we then made sail after the

Bridgewater and Cato, to take our station ahead of them as before.

Some apprehensions were excited for the following night by meeting with

this bank but as it was more than two degrees to the eastward of the

great Barrier Reefs, we thought it unconnected with any other, like the

two discovered by captain Ball and Mr. Bampton, further towards the north

end of New Caledonia. I had, besides, steered for Torres' Strait in the

Investigator, from reefs several degrees to the westward, without meeting

with any other danger than what lay near the Barrier or belonged to the

Strait; and by the time we had rejoined the ships in the evening, the

distance run from the bank was thirty-five miles, and no other danger had

been descried. It did not therefore seem necessary to lose a good night's

run by heaving to; and I agreed with lieutenant Fowler, that it would be

sufficient to make the signal for the ships to run under easy, working

sail during the night--to take our usual station ahead--and to charge one

of the Investigator's warrant officers with the look-out on the fore

castle. These precautions being taken, and the top sails double reefed,

our course was pursued to the N. by W., with a fresh breeze and cloudy

weather; and at eight o'clock the lead was cast, but no bottom found at

85 fathoms. The Bridgewater was then about half a mile on the starbord,

and the Cato a mile on the larbord quarter; and their distance seeming to

increase at nine, when our rate of going was eight knots, the fore sail

was hauled up to keep them in sight: wind then at S. E. by E.

[EAST COAST. WRECK REEF.]

In half an hour, and almost at the same instant by the Investigator's

carpenter on the fore castle, and the master who had charge of the watch

on the quarter deck--breakers were seen ahead. The helm was immediately

put down, with the intention of tacking from them; but the Porpoise

having only three double-reefed top sails set, scarcely came up to the

wind. Lieutenant Fowler sprang upon deck, on hearing the noise; but

supposing it to be occasioned by carrying away the tiller rope, a

circumstance which had often occurred in the Investigator, and having no

orders to give, I remained some minutes longer, conversing with the

gentlemen in the gun room. On going up, I found the sails shaking in the

wind, and the ship in the act of paying off; at the same time there were

very high breakers at not a quarter of a cable's length to leeward. In

about a minute, the ship was carried amongst the breakers; and striking

upon a coral reef, took a fearful heel over on her larbord beam ends, her

head being north-eastward. A gun was attempted to be fired, to warn the

other vessels of the danger; but owing to the violent motion and the

heavy surfs flying over, this could not be done immediately; and before

lights were brought up, the Bridgewater and Cato had hauled to the wind

across each other.

Our fore mast was carried away at the second or third shock; and the

bottom was presently reported to be stove in, and the hold full of water.

When the surfs permitted us to look to windward, the Bridgewater and Cato

were perceived at not more than a cable's length distance; and

approaching each other so closely, that their running aboard seemed to us

inevitable. This was an aweful moment; the utmost silence prevailed; and

when the bows of the two ships went to meet, even respiration seemed to

be suspended. The ships advanced, and we expected to hear the dreadful

crash; but presently they opened off from each other, having passed side

by side without touching; the Cato steering to the north-east, and the

Bridgewater to the southward. Our own safety seemed to have no other

dependence than upon the two ships, and the exultation we felt at seeing

this most imminent danger passed, was great, but of short duration; the

Cato struck upon the reef about two cables length from the Porpoise, we

saw her fall over on her broad side, and the masts almost instantly

disappeared; but the darkness of the night did not admit of

distinguishing, at that distance, what further might have happened.

Turning our eyes toward the Bridgewater, a light was perceived at her

mast head, by which we knew she had cleared the reef; and our first

sensations were, that the commander would certainly tack, and send boats

to our assistance; but when a little reflexion had enabled us to put

ourselves in his place, it became evident that he would not choose to

come so near the reef in the night, blowing fresh as it did; and still

less to send his boats and people into the breakers, to their certain

destruction.

The Porpoise had very fortunately heeled towards the reef so that the

surfs which struck against her turned-up side, flew over without washing

any thing off the decks; and the smooth appearance of the water under the

lee, afforded a prospect of being able to get the boats out on that side.

The experiment was tried with a small four-oared gig, and succeeded; but

a six-oared cutter was jerked against the sheet anchor by the violence of

the shocks, and being stove, was filled with water.

It was by no means certain how long the ship, being slightly built and

not in a sound state, might hold together; it was therefore deemed

expedient to lighten her, that she might drive further up the coral bank

and lie more easily. On sounding, the depth was found to be 17 fathoms on

the windward side, but no more than a few feet on the reef; and Mr.

Fowler ordered the main and mizen masts, and the starbord anchor to be

cut away; but on my suggesting to him the possibility of driving over the

reef, with the rise of tide, and sinking in deep water as the Pandora had

done, the lightening of the ship was not prosecuted further.

Beyond the smooth water close under the lee, there was a line of

breakers, and further on the sea appeared to be tranquil; it therefore

seemed probable that boats might approach the ship on that side, and if

this information could be conveyed to captain Palmer of the Bridgewater,

that something might be speedily done towards saving the crew; and as it

was likely that my influence with him might be greatest, and being a

passenger in the Porpoise no charge made my presence on board immediately

necessary, I proposed to make the attempt in the gig, to which Mr. Fowler

assented. The boat being obliged to lie at a little distance from the

ship, to prevent being stove, I jumped over-board and swam to her; and we

pushed through the breakers to the smooth water, receiving two or three

surfs by the way, from which we hardly escaped sinking. On examining into

the condition of the boat, I found nothing to bale out the water, and

only two oars which did not belong to it; and instead of the proper crew

of four men, there were only three; but under the thwarts were stowed

away three others, the armourer, a cook, and a marine, who did not know

how to handle an oar. These last were set to baling with their hats and

shoes, and we rowed towards the Bridgewater's light, keeping under the

lee of the breakers. That ship was standing from us, and I saw that any

attempt to get nearer before she tacked would be fruitless; and even

afterwards, it was much to be doubted whether, with two awkward oars and

an overloaded boat, we could make any way against the sea on the windward

side of the reef; I therefore determined to remain under the lee of the

breakers until she should approach, and to lie near the Porpoise; that in

case of her going to pieces before morning, we might save some of the

people. In rowing back we met the cutter, which the men in her, having

got the leak partly stopped, had pushed off without an officer, and were

going they scarcely knew whither; they furnished us with a third oar, and

I desired them to keep close to the gig, near the wreck, until morning.

We found the bottom here to be coral rock, and the water so shallow, that

a man might stand up in many places without being over head.

I wished to have got on board the ship, to let them know of the boats

being safe and what we had discovered of the reef; but the breakers

between us, and the darkness of the night cut off all hope of

communication before morning. They burned blue lights every half hour, as

a guide to the Bridgewater; but her light was lost to us in the boats at

eleven o'clock, and after two in the morning [THURSDAY 18 AUGUST 1803] it

was no longer seen from the Porpoise. At that time it appeared to be low

water, and the ship lay so much more quiet than before, that the

apprehension of her going to pieces before daylight had much subsided; to

be prepared, however, for the next flood, Mr. Fowler employed his people

during the night in making a raft of the spare top masts, yards, etc.,

with short ropes all round it, by which the people might hold on; and a

cask of water, with a chest containing some provisions, a sextant, and

the Investigator's log books, were secured upon the raft.

In the small gig we were quite drenched, the south-east wind blew fresh

and cold., and the reflexions excited by the great change so suddenly

made in our situation. with the uncertainty of what had befallen the Cato

and even the Bridgewater, did not tend to make this long night pass more

agreeably. My thoughts were principally occupied in devising plans for

saving ourselves, under the apprehension that we might see no more of the

Bridgewater; but not to discourage the people, I spoke of every body

getting on board that ship in the morning, and of continuing our voyage

to England, as not at all doubtful.

Of the poor Cato, we could neither see nor hear any thing. It appeared

that captain Park, when meeting the Bridgewater on opposite tacks,

stopped setting his main sail and bore away to leeward had he persevered,

both ships must have come upon the reef together; but by his presence of

mind on this occasion, the Bridgewater weathered the breakers and escaped

the impending danger. When the Cato struck the reef, it was upon the

point of a rock, under the larbord chess tree; and she fell over to

windward, with her decks exposed to the waves. In a short time the decks

and holds were torn up, and every thing washed away; and the sole place

left, where the unfortunate people could hope to avoid the fury of the

sea, was in the larbord fore channel, where they all crowded together,

the greater part with no other covering than their shirts. Every time the

sea struck the Cato, it twisted her about upon the rock with such violent

jerks, that they expected the stern, which was down in the water, would

part every moment. In this situation, some lashing themselves to the

timber heads, others clinging to the chain plates and dead eyes, and to

each other, captain Park and his crew passed the night; their hope being,

that the fore castle of the ship might hold upon the rock till morning,

and that the Bridgewater would then send her boats to save them. From the

Porpoise they entertained no hope; and until the signal lights were seen,

they thought her gone to pieces.

At the first dawning of day, I got on board the Porpoise by the help of

the fallen masts. Every body was in good spirits at seeing the ship hold

together so well, and finding the boats safe; for the gig, with all in

her, had been given up for lost, some one having thought he saw her sink

in the breakers. With the daylight appeared a dry sand bank, not more

than half a mile distant, sufficiently large to receive us all with what

provisions might be got out of the ship; and the satisfaction arising

from this discovery was increased by the Bridgewater being perceived

under sail, and though distant, that she was standing towards the reef.

On the other side, the appearance of the poor Cato, with the people

waving to us from the bowsprit and fore castle, the only parts above

water, was truly distressing.

The reef seemed to be a mile in breadth, and it extended in an east and

west direction to a distance beyond what could be distinguished from the

Porpoise's deck; but there were in it several wide, and apparently deep

openings, by which the Bridgewater might run to leeward, and there anchor

or lie to, whilst sending her boats to our assistance. Having made these

remarks, I left Mr. Fowler and his people getting up water and

provisions; and went to the bank for the purpose of being ready to go off

in the gig so soon as that ship should be near enough, and pointing out

to captain Palmer the means by which he might take on board the two crews

and what else might be saved; but he went upon the other tack soon

afterward, and no more was seen of him during the day.

A number of sea-birds eggs scattered over the bank, showed that it was

above high-water mark, and I sent the gig back with this intelligence to

lieutenant Fowler. Seeing that the Bridgewater did not approach, he

ordered the boat to lie opposite to the Cato; and captain Park and his

men, throwing themselves into the water with any pieces of spar or plank

they could find, swam to her through the breakers; and were then taken to

the Porpoise where they received food and some clothing. Several were

bruised against the coral rocks, and three young lads were drowned. One

of these poor boys, who, in the three or four voyages he had made to sea,

had been each time shipwrecked, had bewailed himself through the night as

the persecuted Jonas who carried misfortune wherever he went. He launched

himself upon a broken spar with his captain; but having lost his hold in

the breakers, was not seen afterwards.

At low water, which happened about two o'clock, the reef was dry very

near to the Porpoise, and both officers and men were assiduously employed

in getting upon it provisions and their clothes; they were brought from

thence by the boats, for the depth was several feet at a distance round

the bank. Before dark, five half hogsheads of water, some flour, salt

meat, rice, and spirits were landed, with such of the pigs and sheep as

had escaped drowning; and every man from both ships had got on shore.

Some of the Cato's sailors appeared in officers uniforms, given to them

in the Porpoise; and I was pleased to see that our situation was not

thought so bad by the people, as to hinder all pleasantry upon these

promotions. Those who had saved great coats or blankets shared with the

less fortunate, and we laid down to sleep on the sand in tolerable

tranquillity, being much oppressed with fatigue; and except from those of

the Cato's men who had been bruised or cut by the rocks, there was not a

complaining voice heard on the bank.

The Porpoise's two cutters and the gig were hauled up to high-water mark;

but the latter not having been well secured, and the night tide rising

higher than was expected, it was carried away, to our great loss. In the

morning [FRIDAY 19 AUGUST 1803], we had the satisfaction to see the ship

still entire, and thrown higher up the reef; the Cato had gone to pieces,

and all that remained was one of the quarters, which had floated over the

front ledge of the reef, and lodged near our bank. Of the Bridgewater

nothing could be seen; and many fears were entertained for her safety.

For the better preservation of discipline, and of that union between the

crews of the Porpoise and Cato and passengers of the Investigator, so

necessary in our circumstances, it was highly expedient that they should

be put on the same footing and united under one head. The Porpoise was

lost beyond a possibility of hope, and the situation of the commander and

crew thereby rendered similar to that of their passengers; I therefore

considered myself authorised and called upon, as the senior officer, to

take the command of the whole; and my intention being communicated to

lieutenant Fowler, he assented without hesitation to its expediency and

propriety, and I owe to captain Park a similar acknowledgement. The

people were then assembled upon the top of the bank; and I informed the

seamen of the Cato, one or two of whom had shown signs of discontent at

being ordered to work, that as they doubtless expected to be fed from our

provisions, so they must exert themselves to save as much as possible;*

and although they were not in the King's pay, yet as a magistrate acting

within the jurisdiction of the Admiralty, I would punish all deviations

from obedience and good conduct in them, the same as amongst our own

seamen. I ordered the Cato's men, who had saved nothing, to be quartered

in the messes of our people, in the proportion of one to three; and

directed lieutenant Fowler, who had charge of the provisions, to victual

all alike. The surgeon of the Porpoise was ordered to examine the

wounded, and give in a list of those really incapable of duty; and a

large party, consisting of as many men as the two cutters could contain,

went off to the wreck under the command of Mr. Fowler, to disembark

provisions and stores.

[* When a merchant ship is lost, the seamen not only cease to be in pay,

but lose all wages due to them after the last delivery of the cargo; and

the sole interest they have to save the stores, even of their own ship,

is for the preservation of themselves, or the prospect of being rewarded

by the owners or insurers.]

A top-sail yard was set up and secured as a flag staff on the highest

part of the bank, and a large blue ensign hoisted to it with the union

downward, as a signal to the Bridgewater. We expected, if no accident had

happened, that she would come to relieve us from our critical situation

so soon as the wind should be perfectly moderate; but I judged it most

prudent to act as if we had no such resource, and this was justified by

the event. Captain Palmer had even then abandoned us to our fate, and

was, at the moment, steering away for Batavia, without having made any

effort to give us assistance. He saw the wrecks, as also the sand bank,

on the morning after our disaster, and must have known that the reef was

not all connected, since it is spoken of by him as lying in patches; but

he did not seek to ascertain whether any of the openings were passable

for the Bridgewater, and might enable him to take those on board who had

escaped drowning. He bore away round all; and whilst the two hapless

vessels were still visible from the mast head, passed the leeward

extremity of the reef, and hove to for the night. The apprehension of

danger to himself must then have ceased; but he neither attempted to work

up in the smooth water, nor sent any of his boats to see whether some

unfortunate individuals were not clinging to the wrecks, whom he might

snatch from the sharks or save from a more lingering death; it was safer,

in his estimation, to continue on his voyage and publish that we were all

lost, as he did not fail to do on his arrival in India.*

[* Against a British seaman filling a respectable situation, these are

heavy charges; but Mr. Palmer is himself the authority. The following

extracts from his account are taken from a Calcutta paper, the _Orphan_

of Feb. 3, 1804.

The Bridgewater, he says, "was just beginning to draw off, when the

Porpoise was scarcely a ship's length to leeward, settling with her head

towards us, and her broadside upon the reef; her foremast was gone and

the sea breaking over her. At this moment we perceived the Cato within

half a cable's length, standing stem on for us. I hailed to put their

helm a-starboard, by which means she just cleared us, and luffed up under

our stern; had she fallen on board of us the consequences must have been

dreadful indeed." On the 18th, "When the day was broke, we had the

mortification to perceive the Cato had shared the fate of the Porpoise;

the bow and bow sprit of the latter only at intervals appearing through

the surf. (The Porpoise and Cato were mistaken for each other.) The

latter lay with her bottom exposed to the sea, which broke with

tremendous fury over her; not a mast standing. Finding we could not

weather the reef, and that _it was too late had it been in our power to

give any assistance_; and still fearing that we might be embayed or

entangled by the supposed chain or patches; all therefore that remained

for us to do was either by dint of carrying sail to weather the reef to

the southward, (meaning the Cato's Bank,) or, if failing in that, to push

to leeward and endeavour to find a passage through the _patches of reef_

to the northward. At ten a.m., we found by chronometer we had got

considerably to the westward; and that it would be impossible, with the

wind as it was then blowing strong from the S. E. with a heavy sea, to

weather the southern reef; we therefore determined, while we had the day

before us, to run to the westward of the northern reef."

"At two p.m. we got sight of the reef bearing N. N. E. At five p.m. _we

could perceive the wrecks, and ascertained the westernmost extent of the

reef_ to lay in 155° 42' 30" east longitude."

"_After passing the reef we lay too for the night_; and in the morning we

lost sight cc of it, having drifted to the northward."

Such is the substantial part of Mr. Palmer's account, omitting his own

fears and congratulations, and his "most painful reflexions on the

sufferings of the shipwrecked." Nothing is said of the sand bank; but I

have been favoured with a copy of the journal of Mr. Williams, third mate

of the Bridgewater, and the following passages are taken from it.

"At half past seven a.m. (Aug. 18.) saw the reef on our weather bow, and

from the mast head we saw the two ships, and to leeward of them a _sand

bank_. The weather abated much, we set all our sails, and every man

rejoiced that they should have it in their power to assist their

unfortunate companions; as there was every probability of our going

within two miles of the reef. The morning threatened; but before the wind

increased we had time to satisfy ourselves if there were any still in

existence; we had nothing to apprehend but what could be seen before we

approached so near. The ships were very distinctly to be seen from aloft,

and also from the deck; but instead of rendering them any succour, the

captain ordered the ship to be put on the other tack, and said it was

impossible to render them any relief. What must be the sensations of each

man at that instant? Instead of proceeding to the support of our

unfortunate companions, to leave them to the mercy of the waves, without

knowing whether they were in existence, or had perished! From the

appearance of the wrecks, there was every probability of their existing;

and if any survived at the time we were within sight, what must have been

their sensations on seeing all their anxious expectations of relief

blasted."

"Until our arrival at Bombay, nothing particular occurred, except my

being sent on shore at Tillicherry with the account of the loss of the

Porpoise and Cato; an account that served for the moment to blind the

people. In executing this service, I did, for the first time to my

knowledge, neglect my duty, and gave a contrary account; but for this

reason--I was convinced that the crews of those ships were on the reefs,

and that this was an erroneous account made by captain Palmer to excuse

his own conduct. I left it on shore for the perusal of the inhabitants,

after relating the story as contrary as possible. This was the cause of

many words; and at length ended with my quitting the ship, and forfeiting

my wages and a part of my clothes."

Such was the conduct of Mr. Palmer towards His Majesty's ship Porpoise,

and towards the Cato which had given way in the moment of danger that he

might be saved. But the officers and crews of the Porpoise and Cato

reached England in safety; whilst captain Palmer and the Bridgewater, who

left Bombay for Europe, have not been heard of, now for many years. How

dreadful must have been his reflexions at the time his ship was going

down! Lieutenant Tucker of the navy, who was first officer of the

Bridgewater, and several others as well as Mr. Williams, had happily

quitted the ship in India.]

The wind blew fresh from the south-eastward on the 18th, and 19th, but on

the two following days it was moderate with fine weather; we worked hard

on board the Porpoise, and by the 22nd [MONDAY 22 AUGUST 1803] had got

most of the water and provisions secured in a large tent made with spars

and sails; each mess of officers and men had also their private tent; and

our manner of living and working had assumed the same regularity as

before the shipwreck. One of the men whose liberty governor King had

granted at my request, being guilty of disorderly conduct, the articles

of war were publicly read, and the man punished at the flag staff. This

example served to correct any evil disposition, if such existed; the men

worked cordially together, and in all respects we preserved the same

discipline and order as on board His Majesty's ships.

Our prospects of receiving succour from the Bridgewater having become

very feeble, after two days of moderate weather had elapsed, I called a

council of all the officers, to deliberate upon the best means of

relieving ourselves from the precarious situation in which our

misfortune, and captain Palmer's want of energy and humanity had left us

exposed; and it was finally determined, that an officer and crew in the

largest of the two six-oared cutters, should endeavour to get to Sandy

Cape, sixty-three leagues distant, and from thence along the coast to

Port Jackson; and pray His Excellency, the governor, to send vessels to

carry us either back to that port or on towards England. But as the safe

arrival of the cutter at that season of the year, when strong winds

usually prevail from the southward, was a subject of much apprehension;

it was resolved that two decked boats, capable of transporting every

person remaining on the bank, except one officer and boat's crew, should

be immediately laid down by the carpenters, to be built from what was

already and might be still further saved from the wreck; and that, if the

officer in the cutter did not return with assistance in two months, the

boats should then, or as soon after as they could be ready to sail,

proceed to Port Jackson. The first and principal means, however, through

which our deliverance was to be expected, being the safe arrival of the

cutter, the choice of an officer to conduct her was next considered.

Lieutenant Fowler proposed, and it seemed to be the general wish, that I

should undertake the execution of the task; and being satisfied that the

preservation of order on the bank, and the saving of the stores would be

left in good hands, the hope of being instrumental to the general safety

induced me readily to comply. But to provide against sickness and the

various accidents which might arise from the natives of the coast or

otherwise, it was necessary that two officers should be in the boat; and

captain Park of the Cato being desirous of returning to Port Jackson, to

make the necessary statements relative to the loss of his ship, he was

appointed my second with the general approbation.

The smaller cutter with an officer, his second, and a boat's crew, I

proposed should remain with the stores, and in charge of my charts and

books for a few weeks longer than the two months; and then go to Port

Jackson also, should no vessel arrive before that time. This precaution

was necessary, lest any unforeseen occurrence should delay my return to

the bank beyond two months, though not prevent it altogether; that the

charts, journals, and papers might still be found there, to be taken on

to England if wanted. I designed my brother, lieutenant Flinders, for

this service; but Mr. Fowler claiming it as the post of honour, I too

much respected the principle that influenced him not to accede to his

request; and therefore ordered, that the former officer and Mr. John

Aken, master of the Investigator, should take charge of the decked boats,

with a master's mate in each capable of conducting them to Port Jackson,

should illness or any accident happen to either of the officers.

TUESDAY 23 AUGUST 1803

By the evening of the 23rd, the Porpoise was well nigh emptied of all the

most essential things; and on a survey being made, there was found

sufficient water and provisions on the bank to serve ninety-four men,

which was our number, for three months, even at full

allowance; although many casks were stove in the hold by the bulging of

the larbord side, and much dry provisions spoiled by the salt water. The

principal contents of the warrant officers store rooms, as well as the

sails., rigging, and spars, were also on shore. My books, charts, and

papers had suffered much damage, from the top of the cabin being

displaced when the mizen mast fell; all such papers as chanced to be

loose on the night of the shipwreck were then washed away by the surfs,

and amongst them a chart of the west side of the Gulph of Carpentaria and

part of the North Coast, upon which I had been occupied in the afternoon.

Part of my small library shared the same fate; but the rest of the

charts, with my log and bearing books and astronomical observations were

all saved, though some of them in a wet and shattered state. The rare

plants collected on different parts of the south, the east, and north

coasts of Terra Australis, for His Majesty's botanic garden at Kew, and

which were in a flourishing g state before the shipwreck., were totally

destroyed by the salt water; as were the dried specimens of plants.

Fortunately, the naturalist and natural-history painter, who remained at

Port Jackson, had put on board only a small part of their collection of

specimens; the great mass, with the preserved birds, quadrupeds, and

insects being kept for a future opportunity. Mr. Westall. the landscape

painter, had his sketches and drawings wetted and partly destroyed in his

cabin; and my little collection in mineralogy and conchology was much

defaced, and one-half lost.

THURSDAY 25 AUGUST 1803

The carpenters were employed until the evening of the 25th, in preparing

the cutter for her intended expedition; and the rest of the people in

adding to the stores on the bank. As the Porpoise became lighter, the sea

threw her higher up on the reef, and she was much shaken; but we hoped

the timbers and beams would hold together, at least until the next spring

tides, and that every thing would be got out. Of the Cato, nothing but a

few scattered fragments had remained for several days before.

Before leaving Wreck Reef, it will be proper to say something of the sand

bank to which we were all indebted for our lives; and where the greater

part of the officers and people were to remain in expectation of my

return from Port Jackson. In the annexed view of it, Mr. Westall has

represented the corals above water, to give a better notion of their

forms and the way they are seen on the reefs; but in reality, the tide

never leaves any considerable part of them uncovered. The length of the

bank is about one hundred and fifty fathoms, by fifty in breadth, and the

general elevation three or four feet above the common level of high

water; it consists of sand and pieces of coral, thrown up by the waves

and eddy tides on a patch of reef five or six miles in circuit; and being

nearly in the middle of the patch, the sea does no more, even in a gale,

than send a light spray over the bank, sufficient, however, to prevent

the growth of any other than a few diminutive salt plants. On its north

and north-west sides, and at one or two cables length from the reef,

there is from 18 to 25 fathoms on a bottom of coral sand; where the

Bridgewater might have anchored in safety, so long as the wind remained

between S. W. and E. S. E., and received every person from the wrecks,

with provisions for their subsistence. The latitude of the bank was found

to be 22° 11' south, and longitude by the time keeper No. 520, reduced up

from an observation on the afternoon preceding the shipwreck, 155° 3';

but this was afterwards found to require correction. This excellent time

keeper did not seem to have been affected by the violent motion of the

ship; but No. 513 stopped, and Arnold's watch No. 1736 was spoiled by the

salt water.

In searching for something wherewith to make a fire on the first night of

our landing, a spar and a piece of timber, worm eaten and almost rotten,

were found and burnt. The timber was seen by the master of the Porpoise,

who judged it to have been part of the stern post of a ship of about four

hundred tons; and I have thought it might, not improbably, have belonged

to _La Boussole_ or _L'Astrolabe_. Monsieur de la Pérouse, on quitting

Botany Bay, intended to visit the south-west coast of New Caledonia; and

he might have encountered in the night, as we did, some one of the

several reefs which lie scattered in this sea.* (Atlas, Plate I.) Less

fortunate than we were, he probably had no friendly sand bank near him,

upon which his people might be collected together and the means of

existence saved out of the ships; or perhaps his two vessels both took

the unlucky direction of the Cato after striking, and the seas which

broke into them carried away all his boats and provisions; nor would La

Pérouse, his vessels, or crews be able, in such a case, to resist the

impetuosity of the waves more than twenty-four hours. If such were the

end of the regretted French navigator, as there is now but too much

reason to fear, it is the counterpart of what would have befallen all on

board the Porpoise and Cato, had the former ship, like the Cato, fallen

over towards the sea instead of heeling to the reef.

[* La Pérouse says, in his letter to M. de Fleurieu, dated Feb. 7, 1789

from Botany Bay, "You will doubtless be glad to learn, that I have not

allowed this misfortune (the massacre of captain De l'Angle and eleven

others at the Navigator's Isles) to derange the plan of the remaining

part of my voyage." This plan, as expressed in a preceding letter of

Sept. 7, 1787, at Avatscha, was to "employ six months in visiting the

Friendly Islands to procure refreshments, _the south-west coast of New

Caledonia_, the island of Santa Cruz of Mendana, the southern coast of

the land of the Arsacides, with that of Louisiade as far as New Guinea."

_Voyage of La Pérouse_, Translation, London, 1799, VOL. II. p. 494-5,

502-3. As La Pe/rouse did not reach the Friendly Isles, it is probable

that he began with New Caledonia; and that upon the south-west coast, or

in the way to it, disaster befel him.]

An opinion that La Pérouse had been lost in this neighbourhood, induced

me when examining the main coast to seek carefully at every place,

amongst the refuse thrown upon the shores, for indications of shipwreck

to windward; and could the search have been then prosecuted to the 15th,

or 12th degree of latitude, I am persuaded it would not have been in

vain. Besides the extensive reefs which skirt the western side of New

Caledonia, and the Barrier Reefs on the opposite coast of New South

Wales, we are now acquainted with the six or eight following distinct

banks of coral in the sea between them, exclusive of Wreck Reef and the

Cato's Bank.

Two reefs discovered by Bougainville.

Bâture de Diane, by the same.

Two reefs further westward, by the Investigator.

Booby Shoal, towards New Caledonia, by captain H. L. Ball.

Bellona's Shoal, by the ship of that name.

Bampton's Shoal, an extensive reef with two small islands.

There are also the islets and shoals seen by the ship Sovereign, which

are probably a part of those that extend so far from the northwest end of

New Caledonia; and all these, with some others further northward, lie in

the space comprehended between Louisiade and New Guinea on the north--New

Caledonia to the east--New South Wales to the west--and a line drawn from

Sandy Cape to the Isle of Pines on the south. Few ships have passed

through this sea without making the discovery of some new bank of coral;

and it is probable that several other patches of reef, yet unknown, will

be found in it, especially on the Caledonian side. This space might be

very appropriately called the _Corallian Sea_.

CHAPTER II.

Departure from Wreck-Reef Bank in a boat.

Boisterous weather.

The Coast of New South Wales reached, and followed.

Natives at Point Look-out.

Landing near Smoky Cape; and again near Port Hunter.

Arrival at Port Jackson on the thirteenth day.

Return to Wreck Reef with a ship and two schooners.

Arrangements at the Bank.

Account of the reef, with nautical and other remarks.

[EAST COAST. IN THE BOAT.]

FRIDAY 26 AUGUST 1803

(Atlas, Plate X.)

On August 26, the largest cutter being ready for her expedition, was

launched and named the _Hope_. The morning was fine, and wind light from

the southward; and notwithstanding the day, which in the seaman's

calendar is the most unfortunate of the whole week to commence a voyage,

I embarked for Port Jackson with the commander of the Cato. We had a

double set of rowers, making in all fourteen persons, with three weeks

provisions and two half hogsheads of water; so that the Hope was loaded

rather too deeply. At eight in the morning, we pushed off amidst the

cheers and good wishes of those for whom we were going to seek relief; an

ensign with the union downward, had hitherto been kept hoisted as a

signal to captain Palmer of our distress; but in this moment of

enthusiasm a seaman quitted the crowd, and having obtained permission,

ran to the flag staff, hauled down the ensign, and rehoisted it with the

union in the upper canton. This symbolical expression of contempt for the

Bridgewater and of confidence in the success of our voyage, I did not see

without lively emotions.

We made sail to the westward under the lee of the reef, and passed two

openings in it of nearly a mile wide. The second league brought us

abreast of a dry sand bank, smaller than that quitted; and at noon we

came to a third, lying ten miles west of Wreck-Reef Bank. Having then

lost the breeze, we stopped to cook our dinner on shore; and in the mean

time I shot as many noddies as would give all the boat's crew a meal. On

quitting this third bank, which is near the western extremity of Wreck

Reef, we crossed into the open sea; and a breeze springing up at

south-east, made sail towards Sandy Cape. Many hump-backed whales were

playing about the boat during the whole time we remained under the lee of

the reef, but they did not follow us further.

Nothing but clear water was visible at sunset, nevertheless we ran

cautiously in the dark, looking out for breakers; the night was fine, and

we made good progress by means of the oars, at which the twelve men took

watch and watch, as Mr. Park and myself did at the helm: it was for this

purpose, and to guard against accidents, that I had taken so many men in

the boat.

SATURDAY 27 AUGUST 1803

At day break the wind was E. S. E., and no land in sight; the boat was

going four knots, and at noon our latitude by log was 23° 6' and the

distance made from Wreck-Reef Bank, ninety miles. The wind freshened in

the afternoon, and a cross sea rose which obliged us to reef the sails,

and made the boat very wet. At four we close reefed and hauled to the

wind, but this was not enough; the increased hollowness of the waves

caused the boat to labour so much, that every plunge raised an

apprehension that some of the planks would start from the timbers. Having

no other resource, we emptied one of the two casks of water, threw

over-board the stones of our fire place and wood for cooking, as also a

bag of pease and whatever else could be best spared; the boat was then

somewhat more easy; and before dark, the hollow swell had so far subsided

that we kept two points from the wind, and again went along in tolerable

tranquillity.

This hollow sea was probably caused by a weather tide setting out of some

passage between the reefs to the north-westward; and the succeeding

smooth water by the tide having turned to leeward, or otherwise from the

boat having passed across the stream; it is at least certain, that the

southern part of the Barrier Reefs, seen by captain Swain of the ship

Eliza, was somewhere to the north-west of our situation at that time. To

avoid all these reefs, and to counteract the effect of a north-western

current, I kept a S. S. W. course all the following night.

SUNDAY 28 AUGUST 1803

We had fine weather next morning, with a moderate breeze at north-east;

and at noon, the distance run in the preceding twenty-four hours was

ninety-one miles by the log, and the observed latitude 24° 53' south: the

lead was put over-board., but no bottom found at 50 fathoms. Our

situation being to the south of Sandy Cape, we steered a point more west,

in the hope of seeing the land before night; it being my intention to

keep near the coast from thence to Port Jackson, that by landing, or

running the boat on shore, we might escape foundering at sea should a

gale of wind come on. At sunset, the land was visible to the westward at

the distance of four or five leagues, and we then hauled up south,

parallel to the coast; the night was fine, the wind light and fair, and

at daylight [MONDAY 29 AUGUST 1803] the tops of the hills were seen in

the west, at the same distance as before. Our latitude at noon was 26°

22', and a high hummock upon the land, somewhere between Double-island

Point and Glass-house Bay, bore W. ¾ N.

(Atlas, Plate IX.)

Our favourable breeze died away in the afternoon, and we took to the

oars; it however sprung up again from the northward, and brought us

within sight of Cape Moreton at sunset. Towards midnight the weather

became squally with heavy rain, and gave us all a thorough drenching; but

the wind not being very strong in these squalls, our course was still

pursued to the southward. After the rain ceased the wind came at S. S.

W.; and the weather remaining unsettled, we tacked at daylight [TUESDAY

30 AUGUST 1803] to get close in with the land, and at noon anchored under

Point Look-out. This was only the fourth day of our departure from Wreck

Reef, and I considered the voyage to be half accomplished, since we had

got firm hold of the main coast; for the probability of being lost is

greater in making three hundred miles in an open boat at sea, than in

running even six hundred along shore. It would have added much to our

satisfaction, could we have conveyed the intelligence of this fortunate

progress to our shipmates on the bank.

The necessity for a supply of fresh water was becoming urgent, for our

remaining half hogshead was much reduced. There were about twenty Indians

upon the side of a hill near the shore, who seemed to be peaceably

disposed, amusing us with dances in imitation of the kangaroo; we made

signs of wanting water, which they understood, and pointed to a small

rill falling into the sea. Two of the sailors leaped over-board, with

some trifles for the natives and one end of the lead line; with the other

end we slung the empty cask, which they hauled on shore and filled

without molestation. A shark had followed them to the beach; and fearing

they might be attacked in returning, we got up the anchor and went to a

place where the surf, though too much to allow of the boat landing,

permitted us to lie closer. The cask of water, a bundle of wood, and the

two men were received on board without accident; the natives keeping

aloof during the whole time, and even retiring when our people

approached, though they were without arms and naked. It is probable that

the Indians were astonished at the comparison between the moderately

white skins of the sailors and their own, and perhaps had heard of my

expedition to Glass-house Bay in 1799, in which I had been provoked to

make one of them feel the effect of our arms; and had they attempted any

thing against my two men, we were prepared to have given them a volley

from the boat which would probably have been a fearful confirmation of

the truth of the report; but happily for both parties, we were not

reduced to the necessity.

On rowing to Point Look-out, to continue the voyage, I found the wind so

fresh from the southward that the greatest fatigue at the oars could

advance us little; we therefore ran to leeward of two rocks, lying a mile

and a half north-west from the extremity of the point; and having

anchored there, arranged the boat so as that every person might take a

better night's rest than we had hitherto been able to enjoy.

WEDNESDAY 31 AUGUST 1803

At daylight, the wind being light and variable, we proceeded along the

coast by using both sails and oars. The weather was dull, and prevented

an observation at noon for the latitude; but a sight of Mount Warning at

dusk showed that our progress was equal to expectation. We then had a

gentle breeze from the north-eastward; and at ten o'clock, passed close

to a projection of land which I supposed to be Point Danger, without

seeing any breakers; it is therefore probable, that the reef laid down by

captain Cook does not join to the land, for we kept a good look out, and

the night was tolerably fine.

THURSDAY 1 SEPTEMBER 1803

At five on the following morning we passed Cape Byron, with a breeze at

north-west, and at noon had made a hundred miles by our reckoning from

Point Look-out; the observed latitude was then 29° 16', and the land near

Shoal Bay was three leagues distant. We continued steering to the

southward, in high spirits at being so favoured by the northern winds,

which there was so little reason to expect; and at eight in the evening

reached abreast of the Solitary Isles. Smoky Cape was in sight next

morning [FRIDAY 2 SEPTEMBER 1803]; but the wind coming round to south,

and blowing fresh with thick weather, we tacked towards the shore; and at

noon landed behind a small ledge of rocks, about three leagues short of

the Cape. The distance run these twenty-four hours was eighty five miles,

and the southwardly current had moreover given its assistance.

This ledge of rocks lies on the north side of a point upon which there

are some hummocks; and on ascending the highest, I saw a lagoon into

which the tide flowed by a narrow passage on the inner side of the point.

The _pandanus_ grows here; and as it was a tree unknown to Bongaree, this

latitude (about 30° 45') is probably near its southern limit. We took in

a supply of fuel and gathered some fine oysters, and the wind dying away

to a calm in the afternoon, rowed out for Smoky Cape; but on reaching

abreast of it the wind again rose ahead; and at one in the morning we

anchored in a small bight at the extremity of the Cape, and remained

until daylight.

SATURDAY 3 SEPTEMBER 1803

The wind was still contrary on the 3rd, nevertheless we stood out and

beat to the southward until four in the afternoon; when the sea having

become too high for the boat, we anchored under the lee of a small

projecting point, eight or ten leagues to the south of Smoky Cape; which

distance had been gained in about ten hours, principally by means of the

current.

SUNDAY 4 SEPTEMBER 1803

On the 4th, we again attempted to beat to the southward; but the wind

being light as well as foul, and the sea running high, not much was

gained; at noon the weather threatened so much, that it became necessary

to look out for a place of shelter, and we steered into a bight with

rocks in it, which I judge to have been on the north side of Tacking

Point. At the head of the bight is a lagoon; but the entrance proving to

be very shallow, and finding no security, we continued on our voyage;

trusting that some place of shelter would present itself, if obliged to

seek it by necessity. Towards evening the wind and weather became more

favourable; in the morning [MONDAY 5 SEPTEMBER 1803] the Three Brothers

were in sight; and at noon I observed the latitude 31° 57', when the

middlemost of these hills bore N. N. W. and our distance off shore was

two or three leagues.

(Atlas, Plate VIII.)

At this time the wind blew a moderate sea breeze at E. S. E, Cape Hawke

was seen soon afterward, and at eight in the evening we steered between

Sugar-loaf Point and the two rocks lying from it three or four miles to

the south-east. At four next morning [TUESDAY 6 SEPTEMBER 1803], passed

the islands at the entrance of Port Stephens, and at noon the Coal Island

in the mouth of Port Hunter bore N. W. by N.; the wind then shifted more

to the southward, with squally weather, and both prevented the boat from

lying along the coast and made it unsafe to be at sea. After struggling

till four in the afternoon, with little advantage, we bore up to look for

shelter behind some of the small projecting points; and almost

immediately found it in a shallow cove, exposed only to the

north-eastward. This was the eleventh day of our departure from Wreck

Reef, and the distance of Port Jackson did not now exceed fifty miles.

At this place we slept on shore for the first time; but the weather being

squally, rainy, and cold, and the boat's sails our best shelter, it was

not with any great share of comfort; a good watch was kept during the

night, but no molestation was received from the natives. Notwithstanding

our cramped-up position in the boat, and exposure to all kinds of

weather, we enjoyed excellent health; one man excepted, upon whom the

dysentery, which had made such ravages in the Investigator, now returned

with some violence.

[EAST COAST. PORT JACKSON.]

WEDNESDAY 7 SEPTEMBER 1803

A cask of water was filled on the morning of the 7th, and our biscuit

being all expended or spoiled, some cakes were baked in the ashes for our

future subsistence. At eleven o'clock, the rain having cleared away, we

stood out to the offing with light baffling winds, and towards evening

were enabled to lie along the coast; but the breeze at south-east not

giving much assistance, we took to the oars and laboured hard all the

following night, being animated with the prospect of a speedy termination

to our voyage. The north head of Broken Bay was in sight next morning

[THURSDAY 8 SEPTEMBER 1803], and at noon the south head was abreast of

the boat; a sea breeze then setting in at E. N. E., we crowded all sail

for Port Jackson, and soon after two o'clock had the happiness to enter

between the heads.

The reader has perhaps never gone 250 leagues at sea in an open boat, or

along a strange coast inhabited by savages; but if he recollect the

eighty officers and men upon Wreck-Reef Bank, and how important was our

arrival to their safety, and to the saving of the charts, journals, and

papers of the Investigator's voyage, he may have some idea of the

pleasure we felt, but particularly myself, at entering our destined port.

I proceeded immediately to the town of Sydney, and went with captain Park

to wait upon His Excellency governor King, whom we found at dinner with

his family. A razor had not passed over our faces from the time of the

shipwreck, and the surprise of the governor was not little at seeing two

persons thus appear whom he supposed to be many hundred leagues on their

way to England; but so soon as he was convinced of the truth of the

vision before him, and learned the melancholy cause, an involuntary tear

started from the eye of friendship and compassion, and we were received

in the most affectionate manner.

His Excellency lost no time in engaging the ship Rolla, then lying in

port, bound to China, to go to the rescue of the officers and crews of

the Porpoise and Cato; I accompanied the governor on board the Rolla a

day or two afterwards, and articles were signed by which the commander,

Mr. Robert Cumming, engaged to call at Wreck Reef, take every person on

board and carry them to Canton, upon terms which showed him to take the

interest in our misfortune which might be expected from a British seaman.

The governor ordered two colonial schooners to accompany the Rolla, to

bring back those who preferred returning to Port Jackson, with such

stores of the Porpoise as could be procured; and every thing was done

that an anxious desire to forward His Majesty's service and alleviate

misfortune could devise; even private individuals put wine, live stock,

and vegetables, unasked, on board the Rolla for the officers upon the

reef.

My anxiety to get back to Wreck Reef, and from thence to England with the

greatest despatch, induced the governor to offer me one of the schooners

to go through Torres' Strait and by the most expeditious passage to

Europe; rather than take the long route by China in the Rolla. This

schooner was something less than a Gravesend passage boat, being only of

twenty-nine tons burthen; and therefore it required some consideration

before acceding to the proposal. Her small size, when compared with the

distance from Port Jackson to England, was not my greatest objection to

the little Cumberland; it was the quickness of her motion and the want of

convenience, which would prevent the charts and journal of my voyage from

being prepared on the passage, and render the whole so much time lost to

this important object. On the other hand, the advantage of again passing

through, and collecting more information of Torres' Strait, and of

arriving in England three or four months sooner to commence the outfit of

another ship, were important considerations; and joined to some ambition

of being the first to undertake so long a voyage in such a small vessel,

and a desire to put an early stop to the account which captain Palmer

would probably give of our total loss, they proved sufficient inducements

to accept the governor's offer, on finding his vessel had the character

of being a strong, good little sea boat.

The Cumberland was at that time absent up the river Hawkesbury, and the

Francis, the other schooner, was lying on shore and could not be got off

before the following spring tides; on these accounts, and from the Rolla

not being quite fitted, it was thirteen days after my arrival in the boat

before the whole could be ready to sail. This delay caused me much

uneasiness, under the apprehension that we might not arrive before our

friends at the reef, despairing of assistance, should have made some

unsuccessful attempt to save themselves; and this idea pursued me so

much, that every day seemed to be a week until I got out of the harbour

with the three vessels.

Governor King's answer to my communication respecting the shipwreck of

the Porpoise and Cato, and the orders under which I acted in embarking in

the Cumberland, are contained in the following letter.

Sydney, New South Wales., Sept. 17, 1803.

Sir,

In acknowledging the receipt of yours with its inclosure of the 9th

instant, whilst I lament the misfortune that has befallen the Porpoise

and Cato, I am thankful that no more lives have been lost than the three

you mention. I have every reason to be assured that no precaution was

omitted by lieutenant Fowler and yourself to avoid the accident, and I am

equally satisfied with your account of the exertions of the officers and

men after the loss of the ships, both for the preservation of the stores

and maintaining order in their present situation; nor can I sufficiently

commend your voluntary services and those who came with you, in

undertaking a voyage of 700 miles in an open boat, to procure relief for

our friends now on the bank; and I hope for the honour of humanity, that

if the Bridgewater be safe, the commander may be able to give some

possible reason for his not ascertaining whether any had survived the

shipwreck, as there appears too much reason to believe he has persuaded

himself all perished.

No time has been lost in prevailing upon the master of the Rolla, bound

to China, to take on board the officers and seamen now on the reef,

belonging to the Porpoise and Investigator, and carrying them to Canton

whither he is bound; on the conditions expressed in the agreement entered

into with him by me, and which you have witnessed. For that purpose I

have caused a proportion of all species of provisions to be put on board

at full allowance, for seventy men for ten weeks from the reef; I shall

also give to lieutenant Fowler the instructions for his conduct which I

have communicated to you, and direct him to consult with you on the

measures to be adopted by him for executing those instructions, as far as

situation and events may render them practicable.

And as you agree with me that the Cumberland, colonial schooner of

twenty-nine tons, built here, is capable of performing the voyage to

England by way of Torres' Strait, and it being essential to the

furthering His Majesty's service that you should reach England by the

most prompt conveyance with your charts and journals, I have directed the

commissary to make that vessel over to you, with her present furniture,

sails, etc; and to complete her from the stores of the Investigator with

such other articles as you may require, together with a proportion of

provisions for six months, for ten officers and men. And on your arrival

at Wreck Reef you will select such officers and men as you may judge

necessary, lieutenant Fowler having my orders on that head.

After having given every assistance to get the people and as many stores

as can be taken on board the Rolla, and given the commander of the

Francis schooner such orders as circumstances may require, for bringing

those who may choose to be discharged from the service and as many stores

as she can bring, you will then proceed to England by the route you may

judge most advisable and beneficial for His Majesty's service. On your

arrival in London you will deliver my letters to the Admiralty and the

principal secretary of state for the colonies.

In case any unforeseen circumstances should prevent the accomplishment of

the voyage in the Cumberland, you will take such measures as may appear

most conducive to the interest of His Majesty's service, either by

selling the vessel, or letting her for freight at the Cape or elsewhere,

if any merchants choose to send proper officers and men to conduct her

back; and in the event of your being obliged to dispose of her, you will

account with His Majesty's principal secretary of state for the colonies

for the proceeds.

I am, etc.,

(Signed) Philip Gidley King.

[EAST COAST. TOWARDS WRECK REEF.]

The small size of the Cumberland made it necessary to stop at every

convenient place on the way to England, for water and refreshment; and I

proposed Coepang Bay in Timor, Mauritius, the Cape of Good Hope, St.

Helena, and some one of the Western Isles; but governor King objected to

Mauritius, from not wishing to encourage any communication between the

French colonies and Port Jackson; and also because he had understood that

hurricanes often prevailed in the neighbourhood of that island, about the

time of year when I should be passing; he left this matter, however, to

be decided by necessity and my judgment, and gave me two letters for the

governor of Mauritius, to be forwarded from the Cape, or by the best

opportunity. At those places in the Indian Seas where I might stop, he

requested me to make inquires into the facility of obtaining cattle for

his colony, with the price and the traffic with which they might be best

procured; and to send this information by any ship bound to Port Jackson.

WEDNESDAY 21 SEPTEMBER 1803

Every thing being prepared for our departure, I sailed out of the harbour

in the Cumberland on the 21st at daylight, with the Rolla and Francis in

company. Mr. Inman, the astronomer, had taken a passage in the Rolla with

his instruments; and of the thirteen persons who came with me in the

boat, captain Park and his second mate were on board that ship, and the

boatswain of the Investigator with the ten seamen composed my crew in the

schooner. We had a fresh breeze at south-east, and the Cumberland

appeared to sail as well as could be expected; but the wind becoming

stronger towards night, she lay over so much upon the broad side that

little sail could be carried; and instead of being tight, as had been

represented, her upper works then admitted a great deal of water. Next

morning [THURSDAY 22 SEPTEMBER 1803], the wind having rather increased

than diminished, I found we should soon be obliged to lie to altogether,

and that if we passed Port Stephens there was no place of shelter for a

long distance where the schooner could be saved from drifting on shore;

the signal was therefore made to tack, and at dusk the Rolla and Francis

ran into Port Stephens. Not being able to reach so far, I anchored in a

small bight under Point Stephens, in very bad plight; the pumps proving

to be so nearly useless, that we could not prevent the water from half

filling the hold; and two hours longer would have reduced us to baling

with buckets, and perhaps have been fatal. This essay did not lead me to

think favourably of the vessel, in which I had undertaken a voyage half

round the globe.

FRIDAY 23 SEPTEMBER 1803

Next morning I joined the Rolla and Francis; and it being then calm, we

did not quit Port Stephens until the afternoon. At night the wind again

blew strong from the south-east; but the desire to arrive at Wreck Reef

overcoming my apprehensions, the schooner was made snug and we

persevered. Our inability to carry sail was so much the more provoking,

that this wind was as fair as could be wished; but whilst the Cumberland

could scarcely bear a close-reefed main sail and jib without danger of

oversetting, the Rolla went along under double-reefed top sails in great

tranquillity; and to avoid parting company was obliged to keep her

courses up, and to back a top sail from time to time.

SATURDAY 24 SEPTEMBER 1803

(Atlas, Plate X.)

The wind moderated next day, and allowed us to make better progress. It

afterwards veered round to the north-east, and prevented us from fetching

more than ten miles to the east of the reef by Mr. Inman's time keeper,

when we came into the proper latitude. We bore away for it, however, on

Oct. 1 [SATURDAY 1 OCTOBER 1803], and ran more than a degree to the west;

when finding no reef or bank, it appeared that we must have been

something to the west of Wreck Reef when the time keeper showed ten miles

to the eastward. This obliged us to work back again, and it was not till

the 7th [FRIDAY 7 OCTOBER 1803] that we got sight of the ensign upon the

top of the bank.*

[* The want of my journal has prevented me from stating any particulars

of this passage very correctly; but I have lately obtained a sight of Mr.

Inman's observations, and it appears from them that his time keeper

(Kendal's No. 45) erred 31' to the east on Oct. 1, and that on the 2nd

a.m. our corrected longitude was 153° 52'. We ran westward till that

evening, and must therefore have gone to about 153° 25', or 1° 54' west

of Wreck-Reef Bank; and as no dangers were seen, this shows how

completely the Reef is separated from the great Barrier of the coast; a

point which it is of some importance to have ascertained.]

[EAST COAST. WRECK REEF.]

It was six weeks on this day that I had quitted the reef in the boat, for

the purpose of seeking the means to relieve my officers and people. The

bank was first seen from the Rolla's mast head, and soon afterward two

boats were perceived under sail; and advancing nearer, we saw one boat

make for the Rolla and the other returning to the bank. The Porpoise had

not yet gone to pieces; but was still lying on her beam ends, high up on

the reef, a frail, but impressive monument of our misfortune.

In the afternoon I anchored under the lee of the bank, in 18 fathoms

coral sand, and a salute of eleven guns from it was immediately fired,

the carronades of the Porpoise having been transported from the wreck. On

landing, I was greeted with three hearty cheers, and the utmost joy by my

officers and people; and the pleasure of rejoining my companions so amply

provided with the means of relieving their distress, made this one of the

happiest moments of my life.

The two boats we had seen, were the Porpoise's remaining cutter and a new

boat constructed during my absence; it was just completed, and lieutenant

Fowler had this morning gone out to try its sailing against the cutter.

My safe arrival at Port Jackson became a subject of much doubt after the

first month; and they had begun to reconcile their minds to making the

best use of the means they possessed to reach some frequented port. The

Rolla's top-gallant sail was first seen in the horizon by a man in the

new boat, and was taken for a bird; but regarding it more steadfastly, he

started up and exclaimed, d--n my bl--d what's that! It was soon

recognised to be a sail, and caused a general acclamation of joy, for

they doubted not it was a ship coming to their succour. Lieutenant

Flinders, then commanding officer on the bank, was in his tent

calculating some lunar distances, when one of the young gentlemen ran to

him, calling, "Sir, Sir! A ship and two schooners in sight!" After a

little consideration, Mr. Flinders said he supposed it was his brother

come back, and asked if the vessels were near? He was answered, not yet;

upon which he desired to be informed when they should reach the

anchorage, and very calmly resumed his calculations: such are the varied

effects produced by the same circumstance upon different minds. When the

desired report was made, he ordered the salute to be fired, and took part

in the general satisfaction.

My plan of proceeding at the reef having been arranged on the passage, I

immediately began to put it in execution. The people were assembled on

the bank, and informed that such as chose to be discharged from the

service might return to Port Jackson in the Francis schooner; and that

the rest would be taken on board the Rolla and carried to China, with the

exception of ten officers and men whom I named, to go to England with me

in the Cumberland, if they would risk themselves in so small a vessel;

for notwithstanding what had been discovered of the bad qualities of the

schooner, I determined to proceed, at least so far as to reach some port

where a passage might be procured in a better vessel without losing time.

The determinations of all were required to be given on the following day;

and in the mean time we began to take on board the few stores necessary

to complete the Cumberland for our voyage, and especially to fill the

holds with water, of which there was yet a good quantity remaining on the

bank.

MONDAY 10 OCTOBER 1803

On the 10th, three days after our arrival, the Rolla had received the

people destined for her, with part of the provisions and stores; and the

Cumberland was ready to sail. All those whom I had named, with the

exception of my clerk, volunteered to go in the schooner; viz., Mr. John

Aken, master, and Mr. Edward Charrington, boatswain of the Investigator,

my servant, and seven chosen seamen. A cask containing what had been

saved of my specimens of mineralogy and conchology was taken on board, as

also the charts, books, and papers of every kind, with the instruments

received from the Navy Board and the sole time keeper which had not

stopped.

Mr. Denis Lacy, master's mate of the Investigator, desiring to return to

Port Jackson, he was charged with my letter to His Excellency governor

King; and I gave him an order to command the new boat. It was about the

size of the Cumberland, had a deck, and was called the _Resource_; and we

manned her with a part of those people whose choice led them back to Port

Jackson. I ordered Mr. James Aikin, commander of the Francis, and Mr.

Lacy, to take on board for the colony as much of the stores as they

should be able; and on their arrival, to make a statement to the governor

of the condition in which they might leave the Porpoise, and what

remained on the bank.

The officers journals, which were to be sent to the Admiralty at the

conclusion of the voyage, had not been demanded at the time of our

shipwreck; lieutenant Fowler was therefore directed to take all that were

saved belonging to the officers embarked with him in the Rolla; and lest

any accident should happen to the Cumberland, I committed to his charge a

copy of four charts, being all of the East and North Coasts which there

had been time to get ready; with these he took a short letter to the

secretary of the Admiralty, and one to the Victualling Board inclosing

such vouchers as had been saved from the wreck. To Mr. Inman I gave the

remaining instruments belonging to the Board of Longitude, reserving only

a time keeper and a telescope; the large and most valuable instruments

had very fortunately been delivered to him before we had sailed from Port

Jackson in the Porpoise.

These matters being arranged, I pressed captain Cumming to depart,

fearing that a change of wind might expose the Rolla to danger; but

finding him desirous to take off more provisions and stores, I made sail

for a bank or rather islet seven miles distant at the eastern extremity

of Wreck Reef, for the purpose of collecting seabirds eggs, and if

possible taking a turtle. The Rolla joined on the following day [TUESDAY

11 OCTOBER 1803], and I went on board to take leave of Messrs. Fowler and

Flinders and the other officers and gentlemen; at noon we parted company

with three cheers, the Rolla steering north-eastward for China, whilst my

course was directed for Torres' Strait.

With the time keeper, Earnshaw's No. 520, I had received from lieutenant

Flinders an account of its error from mean Greenwich time at noon there

Oct. 6, and its rate of going during the fourteen preceding days, which

were as under.

No. 520, slow 0h 9' 49.35" and losing 34.13" per day.

The _latitude_ of Wreck-Reef Bank was ascertained from eight meridian

observations from the sea, and four from an artificial horizon: the mean

of the latter, which are considered the best, is 22° 11' 23" S.

_Longitude_ from sixty sets of lunar distances, of which the individual

results are given in Table VIII. of the Appendix No. I. to this volume,

155° 18' 50.5" E.

The longitude of the bank, as given by Earnshaw's No. 520 on Aug. 28,

eleven days after the shipwreck, was 155° 4' 14.6" with the Port Jackson

rate, or 14' 35.9" less than the lunar observations. In laying down the

Porpoise's track on the chart, this error has been corrected by an equal

proportion, according to the time of each observation for the longitude.

Mr. Flinders deduced the _variation_ of the compass from observing the

sun's magnetic azimuth a. m. and p. m., when equal altitudes were taken,

and comparing the mean azimuth at corresponding altitudes with the true

meridian; this method is probably not the best, and the results from two

compasses differed considerably; Walker's compass, marked No. 1, giving

9° 17' east from ten observations, and that marked No. 2, 13° 54' from

five observations. The first is undoubtedly the best, though possibly not

very correct.

There are here two regular _tides_ daily, and it was high water on the

day of full moon at 8h 50' in the morning; the rise was six feet two

inches, but the night tide will probably reach to eight, or perhaps nine

feet at the height of the springs.

Some account was given of Wreck-Reef Bank before quitting it in the boat,

but I had not then acquired a knowledge of the whole extent of the reef.

It is about twenty miles long, and from a quarter, to one mile and a half

in breadth; and consists of many distinct patches of different

magnitudes, the six principal of which are from four to eight or ten

miles in circuit. They are separated by channels of one mile to near a

league in width; and in the two easternmost I found from 8 to 10 fathoms,

and nothing to prevent a ship passing through in a case of necessity.

Four of the six larger patches have each a sand bank near the middle,

which do not appear to have been lately covered by the tide; and they are

now more or less frequented by sea birds, such as noddies, boobies,

tropic, and man-of-war birds, gannets, and perhaps some others. Of these

four banks, two lie to the west and one to the east of that near which

our ships struck; but the eastern bank is the most considerable, and most

frequented by birds; turtle also land there occasionally, and this bank

was not improperly called _Bird Islet_, being now covered with coarse

grass, some shrubs, and a soil to which the birds are every day making an

increase.

Bird Islet being to windward of, and only seven miles distant from our

bank, it was frequently visited by the gentlemen during my absence.

Besides sea birds of the species already mentioned, they procured many

thousand eggs; and also four turtle, of which one weighed 459 pounds, and

contained so many eggs, that lieutenant Fowler's journal says no less

than 1940, large and small, were counted. These supplies, with shell fish

gathered from the reef, and fish, were a great resource, and admitted of

a saving in the salt provisions; as the occasional rains, from which

several casks were filled, did of their fresh water. The _trepang_ was

found on Wreck Reef, and soup was attempted to be made of it; but whether

our cooks had not the method of stewing it down, or that the trepang is

suited only to the vitiated taste of the Chinese, nothing good was

produced

Oats, maize, and pumpkin seeds were planted upon Wreck-Reef Bank, as also

upon Bird Islet; and the young plants had come up, and were in a

tolerably flourishing state; some of these may possibly succeed upon the

islet, but upon the bank it is scarcely to be hoped. The cocoa nut is

capable of resisting the light sprays of the sea which frequently pass

over these banks, and it is to be regretted that we had none to plant

upon them. A cluster of these majestic and useful palms would have been

an excellent beacon to warn mariners of their danger; and in the case

where darkness might render them unavailing in this respect, their fruit

would at least afford some salutary nourishment to the shipwrecked

seamen. The navigator who should distribute ten thousand cocoa nuts

amongst the numerous sand banks of the Great Ocean and Indian Sea, would

be entitled to the gratitude of all maritime nations, and of every friend

to humanity. I may be thought to attribute too much importance to this

object in saying, that such a distribution ought to be a leading article

in the instructions for any succeeding voyage of discovery or

investigation to these parts; but it is from having suffered ourselves

that we learn to appreciate the misfortunes and wants of others. and

become doubly interested in preventing or relieving them. "The human

heart," as an elegant author observes, "resembles certain medicinal

trees. which yield not their healing balm until they have themselves been

wounded."*

[* Le coeur est comme ces sortes d'arbres, qui ne donnent leur baume pour

les blessures des hommes que lorsque le fer les a blessés eux-mêmes.

Chateaubriant's _Génie de Christianisme, Episode d' Attala_.]

CHAPTER III.

Passage in the Cumberland to Torres' Strait.

Eastern Fields and Pandora's Entrance.

New channels amongst the reefs.

Anchorage at Half-way Island, and under the York Isles.

Prince of Wales's Islands further examined.

Booby Isle.

Passage across the Gulph of Carpentaria.

Anchorage at Wessel's Islands.

Passage to Coepang Bay, in Timor; and to Mauritius,

where the leakiness of the Cumberland makes it necessary to stop.

Anchorage at the Baye du Cap, and departure for Port Louis.

[EAST COAST. TOWARDS TORRES' STRAIT]

TUESDAY 11 OCTOBER 1803

(Atlas, Plate I.)

On parting from the Rolla, at noon Oct. 11, off Bird Islet, our course

was steered N. N. W. by compass for Torres' Strait. At eight in the

evening we had run thirteen leagues from Wreck Reef, without seeing any

danger; but I thought it advisable to lie to in the night, until the

distance was further increased. We made sail again at five in the morning

[WEDNESDAY 12 OCTOBER 1803], and at noon were in 20° 46' south and 155°

2' east. During the two following days and nights, our course by compass

was N. W. by N., and afterwards N. W.; and on the 15th [SATURDAY 15

OCTOBER 1803] at noon we had reached the latitude 15° 29' and longitude

151° 24', the current having set, upon the average of four days, ¾ of a

mile an hour to the W. N. W. This situation was a little to the north,

and about one degree to the east of Bougainville's Bank of Diana, and the

tropic birds, petrels, and boobies seen every day were this evening more

numerous, especially the boobies; they most probably belonged to Diana's

Bank, but lest some other might lie in our way, we hauled to the wind at

eight o'clock. The little Cumberland was still very leaky at such times

as the wind came more on the side and caused her to lie over; and the

pumps were so bad that a fourth part of the day was frequently required

at them to keep her free, and they were becoming worse from such constant

use.

SUNDAY 16 OCTOBER 1803