What at once impresses the intelligent visitor to Bedford Park is

the fact that the beauty which has been admittedly secured is not

fictitious. A competent writer in the _Sporting and Dramatic News_

(September 27th, 1879), speaks very truly of this feature of the new

village: “We have here no unchangeable cast-iron work, but hand-wrought

wooden balustrades and palings; no great sheets of plate-glass,

but small panes set in frames of wood which look strong and solid,

although, the windows being large, they supply ample illumination for

the spacious rooms within. There is no attempt to conceal with false

fronts, or stucco ornament, or unmeaning balustrades, that which is

full of comfortable suggestiveness in a climate like our own--the house

roof; everything is simple, honest, unpretending. Within, no clumsy

imitations of one wood to conceal another, but a preserving surface of

beautifully flatted paint, made handsome by judicious arrangements of

color. Here brick is openly brick, and wood is openly wood, and paint

is openly paint. Nothing comes in a mean, sneaking way, pretending to

be that which it is not. Varnish is unknown. There is an old-world

air about the place despite its newness, a strong touch of Dutch

homeliness, with an air of English comfort and luxuriousness, but not a

bit of the showy, artificial French stuffs which prevailed in our homes

when Queen Anne was on the throne, when we imported our furniture from

France, and believed in nothing which was not French.”

Those who purchase or lease houses at Bedford Park are allowed the

choice where their wall-papers shall be purchased, what designs

shall be selected, and what colors shall be used on the wood-work. A

certain amount is allotted for the decoration of the drawing-room,

dining-room, and so on, and the occupants are invited to select up to

that sum freely; or, if they fancy some costlier paper or decoration,

the excess of price is added. As a matter of fact, a majority of the

residents have used the wall-papers and designs of Morris, the draught

on whose decorative works has become so serious that a branch of the

Bloomsbury establishment will probably become necessary in the vicinity

of Bedford Park. This natural selection of the Morris designs by so

many families, independently of each other, could hardly have occurred

a few years ago, or, if it had occurred, would have been a misfortune

of monotony; but recently these designs have been sufficiently varied,

and the new patterns, which may be had in divers colors and shades,

are now so numerous that it is quite possible for all to be satisfied

without a calamitous sameness. And this result is largely due to the

excellent taste and ingenuity of the founder of the village, who is

pretty certain to give those arranging the interiors of their houses

the best advice, not unfrequently guiding them about the place, to see

the effect of certain papers already on walls, and showing how by new

combinations of dado-paper and wall-paper, or distemper, repetitions of

neighboring decorations may be avoided. The besetting sin of the new

decoration--monotony--is thus measurably escaped.

[Illustration: QUEEN ANNE’S GARDENS.]

The best standards, indeed, Mr. Carr is generally able to show in

his own house. His taste and that of his wife have made their house

beautiful. It would be difficult to find a prettier room than the

dining-room, which our artist has drawn with care; but much of its

beauty depends upon the soft colors and tints of its walls and its

genuinely old furniture. This house, known as the Tower House, is as

elegant, comfortable, and charming as need be desired even by those

whose home is the seat of a continuous and liberal hospitality. The

hall, landings, and rooms are all spacious and well proportioned; yet

the entire building, arrangements, and decorations have probably not

cost four thousand pounds.

In Mr. Nash’s sketch of “Queen Anne’s Gardens” the observer may see

some characteristic features of the place, such as the venerable air of

our trees, and the relation of our streets to the old characters traced

upon the soil by the gardens which preceded these. It is said some of

the streets of Boston, Massachusetts, followed the old sheep-paths;

and it may now be entered in the archives of Bedford Park, against its

becoming a city, that its streets and gardens have been largely decided

by Dr. Lindley’s trees. Some of them curve to make way for the lofty

patriarchs of the estate, which we hope may long wave over us. There

has been an accompanying good result, that wherever the eye looks it

meets something beautiful.

[Illustration: CO-OPERATIVE STORES AND TABARD INN.]

[Illustration: TOWER HOUSE AND LAWN-TENNIS GROUNDS.]

One of our views is slightly utilitarian. It is taken from the old

Roman Road, and from the Co-operative Stores in the foreground commands

the railway, on which trains bear us to the heart of London in thirty

minutes. Indeed, one can start from our little station for a voyage

round the world, so many are the junctions to be reached from it. The

portico of the church is visible on the right in this picture, and in

the distance the steeple of Turnham Green parish church. Beside the

Co-operative Stores stands the one inn of Bedford Park. It is a part of

the contract of each lessee that he shall not allow any public-house

(or drinking-house) to be opened on his premises, nor allow any trade

to be carried on upon the same. Yet there is need of an inn, that

families may come to experiment on the place, and where lodgings may be

obtained when houses are overfull of guests, Bedford Park being much

given to hospitality. The inn is called “The Tabard.” That was the name

of the old inn in the Borough, near London Bridge, from which Chaucer’s

Canterbury Pilgrims started. The excellent artist, Mr. Rookh, whom

Bedford Park is fortunate enough to have as a resident, has painted a

beautiful sign for our “Tabard,” representing much the same scene as

our picture on one side, and on the other an old-time herald habited in

a tabard.

Another of Mr. Nash’s views shows our tennis lawn and Badminton floor

(asphalt), which are pretty generally the scene of merry games. These

beautiful grounds are at the west end of Tower House (seen on the

left), and contain beautiful trees, among others the first Wellingtonia

(as the English insist on naming that American institution) planted in

England.

[Illustration: READING AND BILLIARD ROOM, CLUB-HOUSE.]

The Club is the social heart of Bedford Park, and it is speaking

moderately to say it is as pure a sample of civilization as any on

this planet. After claiming that, my reader need hardly be informed

that in it ladies and gentlemen are on a perfect equality. Whatever

distinctions are made are such as instinct and taste suggest. The

ladies did not enter the billiard-room, possibly fearing that they

might put too much restraint upon gentlemen who not only smoke, but

sometimes like to take their coats off at the game; so there has been

added a ladies’ billiard-room, exquisitely panelled and papered. The

wainscot is of oak which was once in a church of London City built by

Sir Christopher Wren: the wood was so sound, after all those years,

as to “bleed” when sawed for this room. Above this panelling there is

a soft golden paper. A door opens between this and the reading-room,

beyond which is the gentlemen’s billiard-room. One of our two sketches

made in this room looks toward this door; the other shows its great

bay-window, on the seats about which ladies and gentlemen are wont to

sit to read the new books with which the table is always stocked, or to

take refreshments. Outside of this superb window may be seen flowers

and ornamental shrubs by day, but the time selected by our artist for

presenting it was somewhat after midnight, on an occasion when there

were prettier flowers inside--those of the night-blooming variety,

which never fail to spring up when the summons has gone forth for a

fancy-dress ball.

The book-shelves, settees, and, indeed, most of the furniture in these

rooms, are genuinely antique and finely carved oak of the seventeenth

century; other pieces are of the dark perforated pattern formerly

made in India. In the reading-room are to be found all the appliances

of the Pall Mall clubs, the journals and periodicals of the world,

and the newest works from the great circulating libraries. The Club

has a large hall for assemblies; it is appropriately decorated, and

especially rejoices in some panels, with classical subjects wrought

in gold on ebony, which fill the wall space above the mantel-piece.

There is a stage, with drop-scene, representing one of our streets,

and appointments for theatrical representations. Here the inhabitants

assemble to witness the performances of their amateur company, and

to listen to concerts by their musical neighbors. Here they enjoy

lectures, poetical and dramatic recitations, _tableaux vivants_, and

other entertainments, at the close of which they generally dance.

[Illustration: A FANCY-DRESS PARTY AT THE CLUB.]

Fancy-dress balls are an amusement much esteemed at Bedford Park. There

is, indeed, a rumor in the adjacent town of London that the people of

Bedford Park move about in fancy dress every day. And so far as the

ladies are concerned it is true that many of their costumes, open-air

as well as other, might some years ago have been regarded as fancy

dress, and would still cause a sensation in some Philistine quarters.

At our last fancy-dress ball, some young men, having danced until five

o’clock, when it was bright daylight, concluded not to go to bed at

all, but went out to take a game of tennis. At eight they were still

playing, but though they were in fancy costumes they did not attract

much attention. The tradesmen and others moving about at that hour no

doubt supposed it was only some new Bedford Park fashion. There seems

to be a superstition on the Continent that fancy-dress balls must

take place in the winter, and end with Mi-Carême. It does not prevail

here. It was on one of the softest nights of June that we had our last

ball of that character. The grounds, which in one of our pictures are

seen beyond the tennis-players, were overhung with Chinese lanterns,

and the sward and bushes were lit up, as it were, with many-tinted

giant glow-worms. The fête-champêtre and the mirth of the ball-room

went on side by side, with only a balcony and its luxurious cushions

between them. Comparatively few of the ladies sought to represent any

particular “character;” there were about two hundred present, and fancy

costumes for both sexes were _de rigueur_; yet among all these there

were few conventionally historical or allegorical characters. There

was a notable absence of ambitious and costly dresses. The ladies had

indulged their own tastes in design and color, largely assisted, no

doubt, by the many artists which Bedford Park can boast, and the result

was a most beautiful scene.

There is hardly an evening of the spring and summer when Bedford Park

does not show unpurposed tableaux, which, were they visible any evening

at the Opera, would be declared fine achievements of managerial art.

Through the low and wide windows, on which the curtains often do not

fall, the light of wax-candles comes out to mingle with the moonlight,

and many are they who wend their way from the more dismal suburbs to

gaze in at the happy families _en tableau_, and listen to the music

stealing out on the ever-quiet air.

The new suburb which has thus come into existence swiftly, yet so

quietly that the building of it has not scared the nightingale I

heard yesternight nor the sky-larks singing while I write, has gone

far toward the realization of some aims not its own, ideals that have

hitherto failed. There is not a member of it who would not be startled,

if not scandalized, at any suggestion that he or she belonged to a

community largely socialistic. They would allege, with perfect truth,

that they are not even acquainted with the majority of their neighbors,

have their own circle of friends, and go on with their business as men

and women of the world. Nevertheless, it is as certainly true that a

degree in social evolution is represented by Bedford Park, and that

it is in the direction of that co-operative life which animated the

dreams of Père Enfantin and Saint-Simon. All society, indeed, must

steadily and normally advance in that direction. For a long time there

have been tendencies to put more and more of the domestic work out

upon establishments which all have in common. As one baker prepares

bread for many families, and one laundry washes for many, and the

railway, omnibus, cab, ply for many, so other accommodations needed by

all are found to be within reach of the co-operative principle; even

the luxuries of life are found to be largely within reach of it. This

village has been rendered possible by that principle, though it had

another aim. Houses of similar architecture have in recent years been

built here and there in London and other cities, but they have probably

cost their owners a third more than they have cost here, because the

large number of families which agreed to buy or rent houses enabled

the landlord and founder of Bedford Park to make large, therefore

comparatively cheap, arrangements for the supply of materials and

labor, elsewhere special or exceptional. By this means one of the chief

advantages of co-operation was to some extent secured. We have also our

co-operative stores; our newspapers and current literature are obtained

in common; we have billiard-rooms, tennis lawn, club conveniences, and

entertainments to a considerable extent in common; and by the time

this is read the Tabard, which has an excellent cook, may be supplying

the _table d’hôte_ at a rate sufficiently moderate to place a daily

dinner within reach of families who may find that desirable. Thus the

co-operative principle has shown its applicability to the requirements

of the cultured class, who are especially interested in making for

their families beautiful homes, without, as Thoreau said, sacrificing

life to its means. Incomes are largely increased when they need no

longer be expended on the physical appliances of comfort beyond the

actual advantage derived. To keep a private carriage in order that it

may be used an hour or two each day is not economy, if an equally good

carriage can be hired for the hours needed. Now and then we hear a

little gossip when some of the dishes at a distinguished dinner-party

are suspected of having been prepared by Duclos instead of a private

_chef_, but the tendency of refined society is to smile still more at

large outlays for ostentation.

But while in some regards Bedford Park must be considered a socialistic

village, it is almost the reverse of any community which has been

so called hitherto, and is far away from the rocks on which most of

them have been wrecked. No step in the planting or development of the

village has been artificial, or even prescribed; each institution has

appeared in response to a definite want. It was not in consequence of

any original scheme that the co-operative stores, the club, or the

Tabard Inn were built. The entire freedom of the village and of its

inhabitants is unqualified by any theory whatever, whether social,

political, or economic. It is the home of such various minds as James

Sime, the biographer of Lessing and Schiller; of Bowdler Sharpe, the

ornithologist (active protector of our birds); Dr.Todhunter, who has

written a fine book on Shelley; Spalding, who wrote “Elizabethan

Demonology;” Julian Hawthorne; Fox Bourne, author of the Life of John

Locke, Miss Richardson, of the London School Board, and Miss Mary Cecil

Hay, the well-known novelist. The eloquent and philanthropic chaplain

of Clerkenwell Prison, Mr. Horsley, is a resident of Bedford Park. The

professions are all well represented. Artists are especially numerous.

The new Chiswick Art School has been erected at Bedford Park. It is

connected with the Science and Art department of the government, and

under the direction of E. S. Burchett and Hamilton Jackson, has already

become a flourishing institution.

[Illustration: AN ARTIST’S STUDIO.]

Bedford Park is in danger of becoming a show-place. Now and then the

fair riders of Hyde Park extend afternoon exercise to enjoy a look at

the new suburb. And sometimes the statesman, weary with his midnight

work in Parliament or in Downing Street, finds relief in this quiet

retreat. Professor Fawcett is apt to put in an appearance on Sunday

afternoons, and one day the grand face of John Bright, with its

white halo of silken hair, was seen among us. M. Renan, when he was

delivering his Hibbert lectures, was entertained in one of our homes,

and pronounced Bedford Park “que véritable utopie.” He appeared quite

amazed at finding in London that ideal place which French enthusiasm

has often dreamed of, and which differs from the “plain living and

high thinking” of the English philosophers. For here, where we have the

scientific lecture one evening, we may have theatricals on the next;

and if we have ambrosial poetry or classic music one day, on the next

the ladies will be found attending the School for Cookery, and learning

how to make dishes dainty enough to set before any gourmand. Minister

Lowell has also paid us a visit, and I believe he thought Bedford Park

ought to be somewhere in the neighborhood of Harvard University. But

our most memorable visitor was “H. H.,” whose eyes illuminated our town

for a day or two, and then went away with such pictures as can only be

painted when such vision as hers comes upon such a vision as she found

here. She came from a beautiful home in a beautiful land; from bright

rooms decorated with many a brilliant stripe and spot contributed by

the wild creatures and growths of Colorado, and touched all over with

her own poetic taste; and she realized at once that she had come to

sister homes with hers, where there was the same desire to cultivate

beauty in harmony with nature. The brilliant letter she wrote about

her visit here comes back to Bedford Park just as I write this my last

page, and among the many reports that have been written of us none

is more true. My distant readers will perceive that my enthusiasm is

not of delusion, if I conclude my rambling paper by borrowing for a

moment the pen of “H. H.” “Only thirty minutes by rail from Charing

Cross--gardens, country air, lanes, bits of opens where daisies grow,

where fogs do not hang, and from which far horizons can be seen--is not

the London prisoner lucky that can flee his jail at night, and sleep

till morning in such a suburb? Lucky indeed, no matter to what sort

of house he escaped, so it stood on a spot like this. But when to the

opens, the clear air, lanes, and daisies, it is added that, fleeing

thither, the London prisoner may sit down and rest, lie down and sleep

in, and rise up and enjoy, a charming little Queen Anne house, built,

colored, and decorated throughout with good taste by artists who know

what souls need as well as what bodies require, there is conferred

on him a double, nay, an immeasurable, benefit and unreckonable

obligation.”

THE END.

PRINTED BY BALLANTINE, HANSON AND CO.

EDINBURGH AND LONDON

* * * * *

FOOTNOTES:

[A] The “Stoning of Stephen,” the “Conversion of St. Paul,” and “Paul

in the Dungeon at Philippi.”

[B] “Catalogue of Spanish Works of Art in the South Kensington Museum

in 1872.” By Señor Juan F. Riaño, of the Educational Board of the

Ministry of Fomento, Spain. Reprinted in Mr. Robinson’s Catalogue of

the Loan Exhibition of 1881.

[C] Since this was written General Pitt Rivers has offered his grand

collection to the nation as a free gift, and I am ashamed and astounded

to learn that it has been declined! The great men connected with the

South Kensington institutions--Huxley, Poynter, Cunliffe Owen, and

others--were felicitating themselves at this splendid acquisition,

when this mysterious refusal came. Sir John Lubbock, as I write, is

questioning the Government on the subject, and it is possible the

outrageous folly may be checked. I regret to say there are indications

that the cause of it is a certain jealousy that has sprung up in

influential quarters at the prodigious growth of the South Kensington

collections. For the moment they have managed to make the British

Museum a sort of dog-in-the-manger. I cannot believe, however, that

the country will consent that such jealousy shall become a contest

so costly to itself. The incident I have just mentioned tempts me to

strike out from this work some complimentary things I have written

concerning the administration of the Science and Art Department; but

the facts have not yet been publicly sifted, and I leave what is

written in hope that the result of this strange affair may not turn all

its admiration to satire.

[D] Heine. Translated by Charles Leland.

* * * * *

Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:

explanatory catalogue of 1247=> explanatory catalogue of 1847 {pg 80}

which all from the cornice to the floor=> which fall from the cornice

to the floor {pg 197}

Travels in South Kensington with Notes on Decorative Art and Architecture in England · 第 16 / 16 段