That barbaric element in the English aristocracy, of which I have

before spoken, which Mr. Matthew Arnold half likes while he impales

its eccentricities, is constantly revealed in the contrasts between

the baronial halls of England and the majority of the homes of the

wealthy middle class. One may take as a specimen of the taste of the

latter any one of the fine club buildings on or near Pall Mall. Here

one feels that he is stepping on floors which the Pompeians would have

thought somewhat sombre, but would have enjoyed, and amid walls and

arches which they would have recognized as familiar, though strangely

gloomy. The halls are large and spacious, rather costly than rich,

built of purest granites and marbles of various hue; the reading,

dining, and smoking rooms are comparatively quiet, and built with a

view to comfort alone. The clubs represent the desire of gentlemen of

means to pass their hours of leisure in palaces, and these are secured

at an expenditure of less than a hundred pounds each per annum, even

in the best of such institutions. But when one visits the castles of

the nobility, such as are still inhabited, the fondness for color

and romance is at once manifest. They love their rooms now blue, now

green, and again rose-colored. They love classical frescoes--nude

Muses, Graces, and Cupids chiefly--on the ceilings, and gay tints on

the walls even of sleeping-rooms. In a word, my lords were sensational,

and in some cases descended to the most vulgar tricks, as in the case

which Wordsworth rebuked so sternly. On the occasion of a visit to

Dunkeld the poet was taken into a room lined with mirrors, and where

an artificial water-fall was set going by a spring being touched. The

water-fall was reflected one way in the mirrors, but another way in the

poet’s face, and soon after in his rebuke of such mimicry of Nature:

“Ever averse to pantomime,

Thee neither do they know, nor us

Thy servants, who can trifle so.”

[Illustration: SPANDREL PICTURE.]

But what could come of a generation trained by the royal standard which

thought it beautiful to tie oranges bought in Covent Garden Market on

the twigs of trees at Hampton Court for a garden party? The mansions

of the nobility are still really the most tawdry and inartistic in

their decorations of any class that have attempted decorations--mere

blazings of white-and-gold; but there is an increasing number of

exceptions, represented especially by some ancient families which have

manifested a laudable desire to have their halls painted with pictures

of legends or historical events connected with their neighborhood

or their ancestors. Mr. William B. Scott, artist and poet, who has

done excellent mural work of this character, has, I believe, fairly

persuaded both the aristocracy and the artists of England that they

cannot have Italian frescoes in this country, and must depend upon

mural painting. In exhibiting specimens of his own excellent mural

painting, before the Institute of British Architects, Mr. Scott made

some interesting remarks on fresco. “In Italy,” he said, “the reign

of fresco was a little more than a century in length. All the earlier

works remaining are in tempera. Not many years ago it was not unusual

to hear people talk of all early Italian wall paintings as fresco,

but it is quite certain no such thing exists; the earlier frescoes,

such as Mantegna’s works, in the Eremitani Chapel, in Milan, are

miserable ruins; while the tempera pictures of Giotto, a century and a

half older, in the Arena Chapel, in Padua, for example, are perfect.

How, then, did it come about that fresco, which died out in Italy

very shortly after Michael Angelo finished the Capella Sistini, had a

revival in this nineteenth century in Munich and London? A very short

narrative of the circumstances attending this revival will, I think, be

enough. The associated body of young German students assembled in Rome

in the beginning of this century aspired to better things than they

found existing in the lifeless art about them. They reverted to the

study of earlier art--to the actual reproduction of former art. They

were also pietists--at least the two leaders, Overbeck and Cornelius;

they found that their patron saint, Fra Angelico, painted in fresco;

they found also that all the mythological, anti-religious pictures of

the Bolognese school and later period were in oil: they determined on

the revival of fresco. King Ludwig seconded them, and furnished an

ample field for their success. The misfortune was, they did not go

back far enough; they were self-denying men, and even the hardships

and difficulties of fresco had attractions for them. It was like a

revival of Tudor in mistake for a revival of the best period of Pointed

architecture. Several English artists living in Rome, after the great

success of the first very able works of these revivalists--my brother,

David Scott, of Edinburgh, and William Dyce, for example--were smitten

with the same feeling.”

Some eight years ago I had the pleasure of seeing the mural paintings

with which Mr. W. B. Scott has decorated Sir Walter Trevelyan’s

house, at Wallington, in Northumberland. No person could have been

more appropriately selected for the work than Mr. Scott, who passed

much of his early life in that region, and has written such beautiful

poems upon its ancient legends. The first (ground-floor) series of

paintings is on panels, enclosed between pilasters supporting arches;

and a second is on the spandrels above the arches, in a corridor

leading to the bedrooms, on the upper floor. The mansion is near the

ancient Scottish Border, so haunted by romance, and near it may still

be seen the remains of the ancient Roman Wall. In four of the panels

the subjects are (1) the building of the Roman Wall; (2) King Egfrid

offering the bishopric of Hexham to Cuthbert, hermit on Farne Island;

(3) a descent of the Danes on the coast; (4) death of the Venerable

Bede. On the opposite side are later subjects, but equally related to

the same region of country: (1) “The Spur in the Dish”--the sign to the

moss-trooper that the larder is empty; (2) Bernard Gilpin taking down

the gage of battle in Rothbury Church; (3) Grace Darling and her father

saving the shipwrecked crew; (4) “Iron and Coal”--the industry of the

Tyne. The pilasters and the arcaded ends are also slightly decorated

with foliage. The pictures on the spandrels are a series of eighteen on

the old Border ballad of _Chevy Chase_. They are full of spirit, and

their rich colors are like bursts of sunset along the ancient corridor.

So much, indeed, depends on this color that it is impossible to convey

the artist’s idea of mural painting by a woodcut. Nevertheless, I must

confide to the imagination of my reader one characteristic design (page

147), “Women looking out for their Husbands and Brothers after the

Battle of Chevy Chase.”

For his decoration of Penkill Castle, Ayrshire, Mr. Scott appropriately

selected the old Scottish poem of _The King’s Quair_, or book

(_cahier_, or quire, of paper), said to have been written by James of

Scotland when a prisoner at Windsor, in 1420, on his love for Jane,

granddaughter of John of Gaunt. The first picture shows the king in

prison, turning from his reading for his pen. According to the canto

in which the king describes his rising with the matin bell, there is

pictured the bell, the warder, the night-watch going home, etc. In

the second picture he looks from his window, and sees the fairest

of womankind listening to the birds in the terraced garden. She has

with her two maids and a little dog. Cupid--the Cupid of early art,

a sort of pretty page--shoots at the king from behind a hedge. The

third picture represents the royal poet’s dream, in which Master

Cupid descends from the starry sphere to carry him away to the court

of Venus, to obtain her assistance. These three pictures run along a

flight of stairs, and the series is taken up with the next flight. In

the fourth picture the poet finds all the lovers of history at the

shrine of Venus. James prays on his knees to her, but she sends him to

Dame Minerva’s court of wisdom for advice. Then we have the poet at the

court of Minerva; next Lady Jane sending off the carrier-pigeon; and

finally the royal poet receiving it. It requires but little reflection

for any one to realize that to an ancient baronial castle such a series

of paintings as this would be as the breathing of a soul beneath its

gray ribs of rock. It must be mainly for the want of such pictures in

them that servant-maids and children so often imagine ghosts rustling

along old corridors and haunting antique stairways.

The castle of the Earl of Durham is graced by a fine stained window,

illustrating the legend belonging to it of the slaying of the great

worm, or dragon, by the Knight of Lambton; and the similar legend of

Moore Hall is finely told in that mansion by the art of Professor

Poynter. The last, however, is simply on canvas, and appeared as a

large framed painting at the Royal Academy. It is, of course, necessary

that a house should be very large and stately to bear mural paintings.

The painting of panels is, indeed, becoming common in old houses which

are well wainscoted, but as a general thing it is confined to the doors

of more modern dwellings. However, a very fine effect has been produced

in the dining-room of Mr. Birket Foster, at Witley, in Surrey, by

inserting in the wall around the room a continuous painting by Burne

Jones representing the legend of St. George and the Dragon. The stained

glass which Morris & Co. have placed in the landing of the staircase,

in the same beautiful residence, shows also that even a cottage-mansion

of moderate size admits of a great deal more decorative color than is

ordinarily supposed.

In passing from the consideration of works of a public and semi-public

character I cannot refrain from paying some tribute to the most

influential decorative artist whom England has produced, and whose

death in April, 1874, all lovers of beauty are still mourning. Mr.

Owen Jones carried into decorative art that spirit of archæological

accuracy--one might almost say that profound scholarship--which was

brought into pictorial art by Delaroche in France, Baron Wappers in

Belgium, and Maclise in England. It is said that there was but one

thing in England which the Shah of Persia wished to carry back with

him to his palace--the Alhambra rooms, at the Crystal Palace; but of

all their possessions, in the way of art, there is hardly one that

the London people would so unwillingly part with. Yet it is probable

that as little as the Shah the thousands who every week find in those

rooms their _châteaux en Espagne_ realize what it really cost to put

them there. Mr. Owen Jones had passed his youth and his early manhood

journeying, both personally and mentally, on the track of the race to

which his fine culture belonged: he had studied the mystical figures

and lines of Egyptian temples; he had pondered the principles by which

reason and truth find expression in stone amid the ruins of Greece; he

had learned the secrets of simplicity and grandeur in Rome, where were

poured the converging streams of beauty from many tribes, each bearing

its freight of faith and aspiration, to be deposited in marbles and

monuments which are the gospels and bibles of a primitive world. By

this path, which meant for him a growing culture, he came to dwell on

the heights of Granada, as the recluse and devotee of Beauty, and when

he thence returned to his native land he brought with him a new era.

He expended a fortune on the grand folio of colored drawings of the

Alhambra, which brought him no return, but a single copy of which is

now a collector’s treasure. When proposals were being received for the

decoration of the glass palace of the International Exhibition of 1851,

Mr. Owen Jones offered to Prince Albert and the Royal Commissioners

his plans. The Prince held out against them for some time; but the

fascination was on him, and again and again he returned to the

exquisite designs, until he surrendered to their charm. He selected

Owen Jones with some tremor, but every year since the Palace has been

transferred to Sydenham has shown that it was a felicitous incident of

his life to have encountered the right man for a task which was to be

of far more permanent importance than he supposed. Since then Mr. Owen

Jones has not only given the large interiors of various great business

establishments that beauty which makes many of them worthy of study

and admiration, but he has won for himself and his country the highest

honors of the three great Continental Exhibitions. It was with some

amazement that the world found itself pointed to England as the leader

in decorative art by the French Exposition of 1867. “It requires,”

said the official catalogue of that exposition, “but a slight insight

into modern domestic life in England to perceive how great a change

has taken place within the last ten or fifteen years in the internal

embellishment of the dwelling-houses of the upper and middle classes

of society; and there can be little doubt that the extension of art

education will lead still farther to the production and appreciation

of articles which combine the three requisites of fitness of purpose,

beauty of design and ornament, and excellence of workmanship.” It

might be supposed by those who have not seen this master’s work that

it consisted merely in clever imitations of the Moorish and other

designs with which his name is associated; but, on the contrary, his

chief excellence was, that he showed how the ideas and principles which

underlie the great works of the past were capable of being led out into

new forms and adaptations. In taking the chair at the Society of Arts,

in 1851, on the occasion of a lecture on the arts and manufactures of

India, by Professor Royle, Mr. Owen Jones, having accorded superiority

to the Indian and Tunisian articles in the Exhibition of that year over

all contributed by Europe, added: “Many of these specimens have been

purchased by government for the use of the School of Design, and will,

no doubt, be extensively circulated throughout the country. But it is

to be hoped that they will do more than merely teach us to copy the

Indian style. If they only led to the origination of an Indian style,

I should think their influence only hurtful. The time has arrived when

it is generally felt that a change must take place, and we must get rid

of the causes of obstruction to the art of design which exist in this

country.”

The _Daily News_, in an editorial article on the death of Owen

Jones, said: “It was to bring the beautiful in form and color home

to the household, and to mingle its subtle influences with the whole

frame-work of social and family life, that the great designer we are

lamenting labored all his life with the patient, unselfish enthusiasm

of one to whom, though full of the keenest sympathy with all the great

historic movements and events of his time, his art was his life.”

[Illustration: OWEN JONES.]

The devotion of such a scholar and refined gentleman as Owen Jones

to decorative art has helped to make an era in that kind of work.

Before that it suffered in England from being regarded as a sort of

upholstery, implying neither talent nor culture. Some gentlemen of

culture and wealth recognized the genius of Mr. Owen Jones at a time

when the Prince Consort was still inclined to regard him as a superior

kind of upholsterer or house-painter, among whom must be especially

mentioned Mr. Alfred Morrison, well known for his antiquarian and

numismatical accomplishments. His residence in Carlton House Terrace is

the truest monument of the genius of Owen Jones, and it is a work which

need fear no comparison with any other, of whatever age or country. It

makes the chief palaces of Northern Europe vulgar. Sádi tells us of one

recovering from an ecstasy, who said he had been in a divine garden,

where he had gathered flowers to bring to his friends; the odor of the

flowers so overcame him that he let fall the skirt of his dress, and

the flowers were lost. Some such account one must needs give of a visit

to Mr. Morrison’s house. A thousand of the touches, the felicities,

which combine to produce the happiest effects in this mansion, can by

no means be conveyed from the place where they would appear to have

grown. I will only mention a few suggestive features of this system of

decoration.

The house is one of those large, square, lead-colored buildings, of

which so many thousands exist in London, that any one passing by would

pronounce characteristically characterless. It repeats the apparent

determination of ages that there shall be no external architectural

beauty in London. Height, breadth, massiveness of portal, all declare

that he who resides here has not dispensed with architecture because

he could not command it. In other climes this gentleman is dwelling

behind carved porticos of marble and pillars of porphyry; but here

the cloud and sky have commanded him to build a blank fortress, and

find his marble and porphyry inside of it. Pass through this heavy

door-way, and in an instant every fair clime surrounds you, every

region lavishes its sentiment; you are the heir of all the ages.

Entering a room for reading and writing, near the door, we are

conscious of a certain warmth of reception even from the walls. They

are of silk, made in Lyons, after a design by Owen Jones. The shade

and lustre are changeable, but the prevailing color dark red. The

design is as if an endless series of the most graceful amphoræ had

suddenly outlined themselves, and the lines had taken to budding off

into little branches. The surface is Persian, and the whole sentiment

of the room is Oriental, without having in it a single instance where

Oriental work has been copied. The carpet is Persian, but the design is

by Owen Jones, the most noticeable figure being the crossed squares,

making a star-shape to match a similar one on the coffered ceiling.

This tapestry of silk starts a theme, so to say, which is carried, with

harmonious variations, throughout the building, expanding in the larger

rooms, until it recalls every variety of Etruscan shape, and taking on

the most beautiful colors. There is a Blue Room, a Pink Room, a Yellow

Room; yet in no case is there anything “loud” or garish in the tints.

The ceiling of the reading-room is somewhat after the fashion of the

best Italian work of four centuries ago--a kind of moulding in deep

relief, which probably ceased to be much used because it was found

difficult to make it without incurring the danger of its falling, so

great would be the weight. But Owen Jones invented something which he

called “fibrous plaster,” by which the most heavily coffered ceilings

can be made with perfect security. It consists in first making the

shapes to be used in wood; the wood is then covered with canvas, and

this canvas is covered with repeated coats of the finest plaster,

which is rubbed down into any mouldings required, and painted. The

coffers here are star-shaped, and in each an inverted convoluted shell

of gold. It is an indication of how finely the decorator has blended

Oriental lustres and classic designs that the various antique objects

and fine metal-work, done by the best Spanish, Italian, and Viennese

workmen, after classic models, everywhere set about the rooms, have an

easily recognizable relationship with the scrolls and forms on carpets,

ceilings, and walls.

But neither the Lyons silk nor the Persian carpets can be pronounced

unique in the same sense as the wonderful use made of various woods

in this house. In the dado, jambs, chairboarding, we find no carved

work, but simply the most exquisite combinations of ebonized and

many-colored woods. Some of these, as the Indian holly, are so fine

that the grain is invisible to the closest inspection. Other woods

are so soft and beautiful that they have the surface of petals. Trees

belonging to every land and clime of the earth have sent here their

hearts, and, without a particle of pigment being used on any one of

them, they gather to form rosettes on the chimney-pieces, cappings for

the dados, and finest featherings around the doors--white, golden, red,

cream-colored, brown, and these of every shade. The tables and chairs

of several rooms are of this tarsia-work of forms untouched by staining

or by metal.

In the library the book-shelves, which do the duty of a dado around

the room, have alternate doors of glass and wood, and the latter are

adorned with a foliation, over two feet high, growing from the bottom

of the panel and leafing out at the top, which cannot be surpassed by

any ancient marquetry. Above these shelves the green and gold lustres

of the wall rise to a cone, which has the appearance of a blue and

gold enamel, above which is an early Tudor ceiling of checker pattern,

between reliefs of a large star with four shadings of different colors,

or star within star, golden, dark, and white. The chimney-piece here

may be regarded as a large arched cabinet, with fire-grate beneath,

having two wings, in which are contained specimens of porcelain from

Persia and Cashmere, which, old as they are, have an appearance of

having been designed by the decorator of the room, who certainly never

saw them until they came into the harmony he had prepared for them.

The drawing-room, whose windows overlook St. James’s Park, is a very

large apartment, whose division, if it ever had any, has disappeared,

giving an unbroken range to the eye, which, whether it takes in the

whole effect or pauses to examine a detail, is simply satisfied.

The fretted ceiling; the frieze of damask picked out with gold; the

tarsia dado, a necklace surrounding the room; the chimney-pieces,

one of which Lepec of Paris was two years in making--they are all

fine without frivolity, cheerful without fussiness. One mantel-piece

reminded me of what Baron Rothschild is said to have remarked once,

when a fop was displaying his malachite shirt-studs, “Very pretty: I

have a mantel-piece of it at home.” Some of the incised ornaments here

are gems indeed, but in no case have they the appearance of being set

there for their costliness; they are all parts of the general artistic

work. One of the best features of this drawing-room is, that it is

not “stuffed” with things. The objects in it are comparatively few,

yet they are sufficient in number and variety; and being beautiful

and interesting, one can look at each without being bewildered, as

in some houses, where an idea seems to prevail that the model for a

reception-room is a museum.

Mr. Morrison is a strenuous opponent of the general belief that the

arts are deteriorating. He believes that as good work of any kind

whatsoever can be done now as in any other age of the world, if one

will only look carefully after the men who can do it. His experience

has certainly been fortunate in discovering those who are able

to make entirely original designs, and yet conceived in a purely

artistic spirit; but then he has had all Europe at his command. The

best metal-workers he has found in Spain and Vienna. In the former

country he found out Zouloaga, a workman residing in the little town

of Eybar, and from him has obtained chased and engraved metal-work

such as almost any of our connoisseurs would be apt to date before the

Renaissance on a cursory glance. One piece of work by Zouloaga is in

the drawing-room--a large coffer, nine feet by three, covered with all

manner of figures and scrolls in iron, wrought in relief, and with a

finish which would have made Andre Buhl himself rejoice that his own

fine cabinet (of which Mr. Morrison is the fortunate possessor) should

have found a place under the same roof with that of the Spaniard. Mr.

Morrison told me that he felt sure the man could do a fine piece of

work, if encouraged, so he advanced him a thousand pounds, and told

him to begin something on that. Zouloaga worked at the coffer for four

years, and its owner saw at once that he had but paid an instalment of

the real value of this marvellous work.

Travels in South Kensington with Notes on Decorative Art and Architecture in England · 第 10 / 16 段