Lyons, indeed, after teaching England its art of war, has itself lost

it. Neither Paris or London will use their newest patterns, one of

which, I understand, represents huntsmen and hounds in full chase

after a stag, careering all over a drawing-room carpet! In Paris, and

even more in England, taste has for some years been tending to demand

richness in substance, vagueness in pattern, quietness in color, for

all stuffs used in rooms. It is greatly to be regretted that the

great manufacturers of textile fabrics declined to participate in

the Centennial Exhibition, having concluded that their goods would

have too much protection in one sense, and not enough in others. It

would have excited astonishment in America to see what transformation

has been wrought in carpets and curtains, and it would be at once

recognized that the old fabrics, with their fixed scrolls, their

glare and glitter, have become barbarous. Messrs. Ward, of Halifax,

recently rolled out for me on a floor side by side the old patterns

and the new, and it was to the eye like passing from poppies to

passion-flowers. “Those blazing ones,” said Mr. Ward, “have gone out of

fashion in this country since the new schools of design began, and we

never sell a yard of them here; we made them for America until the last

tariff, and now the manufacture has ceased altogether.” The new curtain

stuffs have always an unobtrusive, almost a dead, ground of saffron,

or olive, or green, and on it flowing conventional leaves with some

heraldic form--as daisy, pomegranate, etc.--to supply spots of color;

and the carpets are of much the same character, with somewhat larger

forms.

These exquisite designs are universally recognized as results of

South Kensington. But there is one point where the results are less

satisfactory. The best designs, which include the human figure, have

still to be obtained from the Continent; and these being of especial

importance in pottery, the great porcelain factories say that their

needs cannot yet be met by English art schools. The truth is, there was

long an opposition in controlling quarters to permitting studies of the

female nude at South Kensington at all, though now the female students

have that privilege. In the male school the male nude is studied; but

still the students--those who mean to devote themselves to fine, as

distinguished from decorative, art--have to unite and employ female

models in rooms outside the school. It is as difficult to see what

benefit is secured by modesty, in thus placing a necessary study beyond

the regulation of the masters, who might preserve decorum, as it is

to find any advantage to religion gained by shutting the door to the

pictorial gospels of Raphael on Sunday and keeping open the door of the

gin-shop. Both the piety and the prudery are anomalous. The Zoological

and the Botanical Gardens, in London, the Dublin Museum, Hampton Court,

and Kew Gardens are all open on Sunday, while the museums and galleries

of the metropolis are closed: the Royal Academy has nude models of both

sexes, under the same Government which prohibits the like at South

Kensington. The queerest anomaly, however, existed until lately in the

Slade School of Art, at University College, where the vexed question

was settled by permitting the male pupils to have female models, and

the female pupils to have male models! This restriction of the ladies

to (nearly) nude models of the other sex was made in the interest of

propriety, as the masters felt disinclined to enter and instruct them

in the presence of a female model.

The former restrictions at South Kensington as to models fell heavily

upon the female pupils. The young female artists were not permitted

to see so much of their model as they would be required to reveal of

their own persons at one of her Majesty’s drawing-rooms. The late

head-master, Mr. Burchett, himself an able figure painter, knew well,

as all experienced figure painters in Europe know, that female models

are far oftener secured from vice by their occupation than exposed to

it, and that life schools are not inconsistent with decorum, under

proper management; and he (Mr. Burchett) made efforts, one of which

was to have the model encased in flesh tights, to secure for his

pupils the advantages so freely offered in Continental schools. But

his contrivances were stopped by threats of Parliamentary questions.

His successor has, however, secured to the female pupils the advantage

of the nude model of their own sex and male model with caleçon; and,

if he can now secure like privileges for the males, South Kensington

may some day be able to point to as high results in the direction of

the fine as in the ornamental arts. Until then young men of genius

will continue to prefer schools which are without such restrictions.

It can only be ascribed to the consummate care with which studies of

the antique are conducted, and to the full supply of the finest casts

offered by the museum, that decorative art itself at South Kensington

has suffered so little from the limitations referred to; for it is

certain that the human figure is the key to all other forms in nature.

It is certain, also, that the female form is the very flower of all

natural beauty--“the sum of every creature’s best,” as Shakspeare says

of Perdita--and no arrangements for art training can be considered

complete which do not include accessibility to such studies of the same

as are required, by those who have given evidence of their fitness to

interpret the sacred secrets of nature.

Beyond this there is no special deduction to be made from the method

of training at South Kensington, which as a school is steadily

improving. The following official memorandum of its regulations (with

which is given the names of its faculty) will show the large scope of

instruction included:

DIRECTOR-GENERAL FOR ART, AND PRINCIPAL,

THOMAS ARMSTRONG.

_Head-Master_, J. SPARKES.

_Mechanical and Architectural Drawing_, H. B. HAGREEN.

_Geometry and Perspective_, E. S. BURCHETT.

_Painting, Free-hand Drawing of Ornament, etc., the Figure and

Anatomy, and Ornamental Design_, J. SPARKES, C. P.

SLOCOMBE, T. CLACK, F. M. MILLER.

_Modelling_, M. LANTERI.

_Etching_, A. LEGROS.

FEMALE CLASSES.

_Lady Superintendent_, MISS TRULOCK.

_Female Teachers_, MRS. S. E. CASABIANCA and MISS

CHANNON.

_Occasional Lecturers_: DR. ZERFFI, Historic Ornament;

E. BELLAMY, Anatomy; F. W. MOODY, the Figure, as

applied to Decoration.

1. The courses of instruction pursued in the School have for their

object the systematic training of teachers, male and female,

in the practice of Art and in the knowledge of its scientific

principles, with the view of qualifying them to impart to others

a careful Art education, and to develop its application to

the common uses of life, and to the requirements of Trade and

Manufactures. Special courses are arranged in order to qualify

School-masters of Elementary and other Schools to teach Elementary

Drawing as a part of general education concurrently with writing.

2. The instruction comprehends the following subjects: Free-hand,

Architectural, and Mechanical Drawing; Practical Geometry

and Perspective; Painting in Oil, Tempera, and Water-colors;

Modelling, Moulding, and Casting. The Classes for Drawing,

Painting, and Modelling include Architectural and other Ornament,

Flowers, Objects of still-life, etc., the Figure from the Antique

and the Life, and the study of Anatomy as applicable to Art.

3. The Annual Sessions, each lasting five mouths, commence on

the 1st of March and the 1st of October, and end on the last day

of July and the last day of February, respectively. Students can

join the School at any time, the tickets running from date to

date. The months of August and September, one week at Christmas,

and one week at Easter or Whitsuntide, are Vacations. The classes

meet every day _except Saturday_. Hours of Study: Day, 10 to 3;

Evening, 7 to 9.

4. In connection with the Training School, and open to the public,

separate classes are established for male and female students; the

studies comprising Drawing, Painting, and Modelling, as applied to

Ornament, the Figure, Landscape, and still-life.

FEES.

For classes studying for five whole days, including evenings: £5

for five months.

For three whole days, including evenings: £4 for five months.

For the half-day--morning, 10 to 1; or afternoon, 1 to 3: £4 for

five months.

To all these classes there is an entrance fee of 10_s._

_Evening Classes_: Male School: £2 per session.

Artisan Class: 10_s._ per session; 3_s._ per month.

Female School: £1 per session, three evenings a week.

No students can be admitted to these classes until they

have passed an examination in Free-hand Drawing of the 2d

Grade. Examinations of candidates will be held weekly, at the

commencement of each session, and at frequent intervals throughout

the year.

5. Students cannot join the School for a shorter term than _five_

months, but the students who have already paid fees for five

months may remain until the end of the scholastic year on payment

of a proportional fee for each month unexpired up to the 31st of

July in each year.

6. Classes for School-masters, School-mistresses, and

Pupil-teachers of Elementary Schools meet on two evenings in each

week. Fee 5_s_. for the session. Teachers in private schools or

families may attend the day classes on payment of a fee of £1 per

month.

7. The morning classes for Practical Geometry and Perspective are

open to all students, but they may be attended independently of

the general course on payment of a fee of £2 per session for those

classes.

8. Students properly qualified have full access to the collections

of the Museum and Library, either for consultation or copying, as

well as to all the School Lectures of the Department.

9. A register of the students’ attendance is kept, and may be

consulted by parents and guardians.

Nothing can exceed the care and devotion with which the great work of

South Kensington is carried on by both teachers and pupils. In walking

through the rooms with the head-master I could only marvel at the

indications unintentionally furnished by the pupils, from moment to

moment, of his intimate knowledge of their work and their progress,

however remote from such details he might be officially. In his room

he keeps all the works sent in by the pupils in competition for the

many valuable prizes offered by the school at each stage of progress,

and these are preserved in large albums, each marked with the young

artist’s name, so that by looking through it we trace the unfolding

in this or that direction of a human mind, from the first crude

geometrical drawing to mastery of the finer strokes of form and color.

The pupil applying for admission is not simply put in at one end of a

machine-like system to be turned out at the other, but a specimen of

his or her work is demanded, and a place assigned in accordance with it.

[Illustration: NETTLE IN ITS NATURAL STATE.]

[Illustration: NETTLE IN GEOMETRICAL PROPORTIONS.]

It was morally impressive to witness the large numbers of women who

have here found a field for the cultivation of their powers. In one

room--that of geometrical proportions--the students of both sexes

are taught together, and no doubt the co-educational system will

gradually creep from this to other classes, as it has to some extent

done in University College and other institutions. But the museum is

able to supply both schools with any quantity of models and aids. The

young female artists have excited the admiration of their teachers and

examiners by the remarkable perfection to which they carry ornamental

designs, especially such as may be derived from flowers, fruits, and

leaves. In one part of the museum there is a series of grottoes, filled

with all manner of ferns and other plants, which serve the double

purpose of adorning the room, from which they are seen through large

glass doors, and of supplying subjects for the study of decorative

foliation. They who see the beautiful combinations of these plants made

in the training schools will discover that their previous acquaintance

with some very common things has been very limited. In this study of

the geometrical capacities of plants for decorative purposes the

female pupils seem to excel. The exquisite art of one of them, Miss

Louisa Poole, enables me to present an example of this kind of work,

for which she recently received a gold medal. The subject of this very

clever piece of combination is the common nettle; and, even without the

beautiful colors with which Miss Poole’s original work was rendered,

these outlines she has drawn for me will perhaps enable the reader

to understand the kind of work by which this school has relieved

England of its former dependence on Paris and Lyons. It is but just,

however, to state that Miss Poole’s work, when exhibited, on occasion

of a distribution of prizes by the Duke of Richmond, was surrounded

by a score of similar sketches which had brought their designers

well-merited prizes. No one could examine them without perceiving that

the young artists have learned the main secret of ornamental art--that

nature is but an alphabet, which it is the task of the artist to

combine into words and sentences that shall convey human purpose and

thought.

Some of the best work done at South Kensington is the copying of rare

and beautiful specimens of ancient majolica and other wares. The

Rothschilds and other collectors gladly lend their choicest possessions

for this purpose, and the copies are of high value to this and other

museums. It is wonderful to observe with what refinement of taste and

with what sympathy some of the pupils enter into the subtle secrets

of the old masters of decorative work. The illustration of the Henri

Deux salt-cellar was made for me by Mr. William Broad, while a pupil

at South Kensington, from a work sent in by him to the Examiners. The

reproduction of Cherpentier’s rich and delicate colors in this young

artist’s original work was exceedingly fine. His design of the top of

the salt-cellar is given on the following page.

[Illustration: PLAN OF TOP OF HENRI DEUX SALT-CELLAR.]

It is quite certain that a peculiar excellence has been given to

the work of this institution by the atmosphere of general culture

surrounding it. Each pupil works amidst the splendors of ancient art,

amidst the shades of the great, and each lives in the presence of men

who to-day best represent the accumulated knowledge of the world. The

spirit tells more than the letter of instruction. Moreover, no art is

here studied in isolation: each is studied along with literature and

science; and, what is of great importance to thoroughness, all the arts

are studied in connection with their own history. Through the literary

works of such archæologists as William B. Scott, the ever-careful

teaching of Thomas Armstrong and Mr. Sparkes, and the practical labors

of such experts as Mr. Moody and Mr. Bowler, the pupil may study, by

theory and experiment, the evolution by which his task has come to

him, when and how great successes were attained, and so inherit the

vital spirit which of old quickened the flowers of beauty by which he

or she is at every moment surrounded. The pupil will realize here the

immortality of good work. He will see that an old blacksmith, ordered

to make iron grilles for Hampton Court garden, put such heart and soul

into his work that his four pieces must now be brought hither as a

monument of which Thor might be proud. Never was more beauty wrought in

iron than this by Huntington Shaw, of Nottingham, anno 1695. Under his

hand rose, shamrock, and thistle have grown on the metal so tenderly

that it would seem a breath might stir them, while from the Irish harp

in the centre one might almost listen for Æolian strains. But that

was done in a day when to work for a king was felt to be working for

God. And all through this museum shines the great fact that the best

work was never done merely for money, but for the altar, for love and

loyalty. It is a Museum of Civilization, where each work is a heart.

There sat a man doing his very best to advance the whole world; there

marched a brave invader of Chaos and Disorder; a reason worked through

him like that which turns a bit of mud into a lily. It is a supreme

joy to trace these footprints of the universal Reason. A flute-key

that wins one more soft note from the air; a pot flushed with some

more intimate touch of the sunlight; an ornament which detaches a pure

form from its perishable body--such things as these exhibit somewhat

finer than themselves, namely, man elect still to carry on the ancient

art which adorned the earth with grass and violet, and framed the

star-gemmed sky and the spotted snake. The student shall also learn

here the solidarity of genius. In distant regions of the world these

men worked at their several tasks, sundered by land and sea, but here

they are seen to have been members of one sacred guild, like that

described of old: “They helped every one his neighbor; and every one

said to his brother, Be of good courage. So the carpenter encouraged

the goldsmith, and he that smootheth with the hammer him that smote

the anvil, saying, It is ready for the soldering: and he fastened it

with nails, that it should not be moved.” From manifold regions of

the world, through ages linked each to each by natural piety, their

works have come here to unite in one mystical symphony of excellence.

By the spirit that worked through them they are made members one of

another. Some little time ago the Professor of Political Economy at

Oxford formed a class of youths of both sexes, and said to them one

day: “There are two great distinctions between man and the lower

animals; one of them is the root of labor, the other is the root of

civilization. What are they?” The first was soon explained; the root of

labor is that the animal has only to seek his food to find it prepared

for him, and his clothing is made for him by nature, whereas man must

cook and modify his food, and make his clothing. The second puzzled all

in the class except one young maid, who said: “The root of civilization

is progressive desire. Give an animal all that satisfies its present

want--good shelter and food enough--it will never be restless, nor show

a further want; but satisfy man in any moment, he will want something

better the next. This craving for the better and the best leads on

to civilization.” But it is the combination of these various lines

of improvement which finally creates a civilization. Savages improve

on their own roads, but the Kaffir never borrows for his own hut any

advantage belonging to the hut of the Zulu, not more than the bee

borrows for its cell a hint from the bird’s nest. The savage has the

root but not the flower of civilization. But then each civilization in

turn is to a great extent special; the human race has a wider life,

into which all separate streams of blood are poured, and all arts

blend. By a higher law of evolution man’s moral and intellectual powers

are selected from the isolated tribes and nations through which they

have for ages been distributed. In this our museum men are taken as

varied pigments to make the study of Man.

“Man, one harmonious soul of many a soul,

Whose nature is its own divine control,

Where all things flow to all....

Man, oh, not men! A chain of linked thought,

Of love and might, to be divided not.”

Of all countries America is that to which mankind must look for the

fulfilment of those aspirations which are the creative force, carving

on the world the ideals of poetry and art. Each fine work will reflect

the culture of the race. Emerson has reminded us that for the best

achievement we must have instead of the Working-man the Man working,

and it were a pity if the great man’s countrymen should not realize

that whole work must be done by the whole man. In walking through the

school at South Kensington once, I met a young lady who had passed

several years in the schools at Philadelphia and the Cooper Institute,

but had never found what she required for her training until she

came here. The picture on her easel proved her to be an accomplished

artist, and her experience appears to me worth mentioning. The school

at Philadelphia, she said, was the best she had known anything of in

the United States, but when she was there it lacked trained teachers.

The teachers were artists in all but the art of teaching. She believed,

however, that the Philadelphia school, if associated with a good

collection, would turn out well. But of the Cooper Institute she was

not so hopeful. It was rather too philanthropic to be a good school of

art. The great aim was to qualify the pupils--girls particularly--to

make money. The pupils are urged on to the paying work rather than to

that which is excellent. It must be understood that these criticisms

are here detached from this lady’s pleasant plaudits to things in

America other than its schools of design, her experience of which was

that one with a high standard had no means of attaining it, while the

other, with more resources, had a low standard and aim. This lady’s

experience has been several times confirmed by American artists with

whom I have walked through the South Kensington Museum. One of the most

eminent of them said: “What a revolution it would cause in American art

to have some such museum as this in each large city! It would in each

case draw around it an art community, and send out widening waves of

taste and love of beauty through the country.”

These expressions, however, were used ten years ago, and it may be

hoped that to those now in the American institutions mentioned that

may appear a dim past. Within that period my own visits to the chief

schools of high art in New York have convinced me that their teaching

is of the highest character, while the resources for culture of

decorative art are slight.

If there be among the readers hereof one of those sensitive patriots

who resent the idea of borrowing any ideas or methods from the Old

World more modern than the Decalogue, I would submit even to him

whether it be not less humiliating to import European experience than

to export American brains. It is no dishonor for America to claim her

inheritance from the past; it is no degradation to recognize what

has been done as done, and not needing to be done over again; but it

may well be pondered by the patriotic whether the Coming Artist will

go abroad, or whether he shall find in his own country the resources

essential to his culture and his finest fruit.

DECORATIVE ART AND ARCHITECTURE IN ENGLAND.

[Illustration]

DECORATIVE ART AND ARCHITECTURE IN ENGLAND.

Michael Angelo was once commissioned to lead in the destruction of the

beautiful villas around Florence. He of all men! The expelled Medici,

now of papal dignity, were menacing the city. The first thought of the

great artist was to save the Campanile, and he covered that noble work

of Giotto with protecting wool-sacks. But the suburban villas must

not stand to give aid to the enemy, and at word of command he started

out, and for once the track of the great artist was indicated in the

destruction instead of in the creation of beautiful things. But he came

upon one house whose wall was covered with a beautiful fresco, and

he had not the heart to destroy it; the soul of the artist held back

the hand of the patriot, and in the field of desolation one mansion

remained standing alone--saved by the protecting genius of Beauty.

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