On the opposite side of the hall, facing the altar-picture of the

disfigured Jews, is a great reredos from the high altar of the

cathedral of Ciudad Rodrigo. It was painted about twelve years before

the discovery of America, it is believed, by Fernando Gallegos,

greatest Spanish painter of that century, and three assistants. This

picture also has traces of disfigurement which have their story to

tell. It is owned by Mr. J. C. Robinson, to whose explorations of Spain

and enthusiasm for antiquarian art this fine exhibition is mainly due.

Mr. Robinson’s account of this picture shows that its injuries came by

English guns, in 1811, during the Peninsular War. The cathedral stands

near the fortress of Ciudad Rodrigo, and the English shot traversed it

from end to end. The grand reredos was so injured that a new one was

erected. Twenty-nine of the panels, though in some cases perforated,

were preserved separately in a corridor of the chapter-house. In 1879

they were sold to a local dealer, who forwarded them to Madrid, whence

they were brought to this country. In some of the panels the faces

and costumes are Moorish. It is still a magnificent work, and must

originally have been over fifty feet high, by twenty-five in width.

Its panels, beginning with Chaos and the Creation of Eve, pass at once

to the life and Passion of Christ. It is likely that this monument of

so many eras, thus curiously brought to the country which marred it,

will not be followed by many similar treasures. The Spaniards have

lately learned the value of such things. The Spanish collection made

at South Kensington by Mr. Robinson, for a long time superintendent of

the art-collections, chiefly led to the formation of the Archæological

Museum at Madrid. When Mr. Robinson began his visits to Spain (about

1862) things were in a fair condition for foreign collectors. “At the

period in question,” he says, “railways had scarcely yet made their

appearance in the Peninsula, photography was almost unknown, and

the country was not overrun by the professional dealers, native and

foreign, who have since ransacked every nook and corner of the land.

On the other hand, in these comparatively early days of the collecting

furore, facilities for the discovery and purchase of specimens were

few, and the work of acquisition slow and difficult. A few brokers

and silversmiths alone occupied themselves casually in the commerce

of antiquities in Madrid, Lisbon, and one or two other of the chief

cities. Neglect and destruction were still the rule. Ancient things,

once out of use, if their materials had any intrinsic value, were

forthwith demolished and utilized. The fine enamelled jewels of the

sixteenth century were often broken up for the stones and the gold.

The most admirable works in silver were currently consigned to the

smelting-pot; the splendid iron ‘rejas’ were converted into mules’

and asses’ shoes; and the gorgeous carved and gilded wood-work of

dismantled churches and convents burnt for the sake of the bullion

to be derived from the rich gilding on its surface.” This is now

all changed, and the Peninsula boasts its band of dealers as well

organized as any in Europe; nor is it behindhand in their shadows--the

fabricators of fraudulent specimens of the kinds most in request.

The visitor to South Kensington should bear in mind that there may

be Loan Exhibitions in some of the adjacent buildings of a highly

important character. As I write there is a collection on exhibition

which will well repay a visitor for the exploration required to reach

it, for it has had to find rooms on the west side of the Gardens: this

is the anthropological collection gathered by General Pitt Rivers,

who, before he became heir of the late Lord Rivers, had made the

name of Lane Fox so noble in the scientific world that one almost

regrets that his good-fortune, in which all rejoice, involved a change

of name. In this collection the evolution of savage and barbarian

weapons, ornaments, utensils, and the like may be studied. General

Pitt Rivers has arranged boomerangs in series, so that the completest

form may be traced back to the first slightly curved stick found to

carry some increase of force. The development of a shield from a mere

stick grasped in the hand, next with a protection for the hand, may

be traced. There is a series of paddles upon which may be followed a

human form, degraded from one surface to another, until a grotesque

conventional figure appears on the last without a trace of human

semblance. The ornamental marks on the bodies of pots are found in

some instances to have been suggested by the net-work print left by

their corded holders. These are but a few instances of the way in which

objects are made by a man of science to tell their own history. Among

the articles which have received the attention of General Pitt Rivers

are the caps worn by the women of Brittany, and a few supplementary

cases of these have been added to his wonderful collection. An

examination of these caps--which are considered of so much importance

that a woman is not allowed to enter church without one, nor with one

of a pattern belonging to another parish--shows good reason for the

supposition that their sanctity is derived from their having been all

developed from the head-dress of the nun. Such is the opinion that

General Pitt Rivers expressed when he conducted me through his rooms.

He showed me that each cap has parts which correspond to parts of the

normal cap of the nun. These parts have grown small in some cases; in

others they are pinned up; but in the latter case they are let down on

important occasions--funerals and weddings--and the wearers are then

all nun-like.

These little French things, however, are hardly to be included in this

great collection--perhaps the most important private collection of

objects illustrative of anthropology in the world. Nor is there any

book more useful to the student of anthropology than the illustrated

and explanatory catalogue of 1847 of these objects prepared by General

Pitt Rivers, and published by the Science and Art Department.[C]

[Illustration: PASTORAL STAVES--IVORY AND ENAMEL. FOURTEENTH CENTURY.]

Various public men sent their treasures to the museum in its earlier

days, when they were more needed than now; but it has been found

necessary to select fastidiously from the too numerous articles

offered every year as loans. Many families owning valuable collections

find it difficult to keep them in perfect safety, and more begin to

realize that such articles should not be of private advantage. Some

collections, originally received as loans, it is pretty certain will

never be removed; and I am assured by the director that the museum has

been notified of being remembered in many wills. This gentleman, Sir

Philip Cunliffe Owen, and his predecessor, Sir Henry Cole, said to me,

in conversation about the prospect of building museums in the American

cities, that they had no doubt such institutions, if good and safe

buildings were erected, would there as well as here find themselves

centres of gravitation for the art treasures and curiosities owned by

the community around them. This museum, though hardly out of its teens,

has received seven great collections, worth collectively more than two

million dollars; thirteen bequests, worth over half a million dollars;

and a large number of donations whose aggregate money value is very

great, though not yet estimated. Among the more important donations

sixteen have been from the Queen, nineteen from the late Prince

Consort, three from Napoleon III. (very valuable too--Raphael’s “Holy

Family,” in Gobelin tapestry; four pieces of Beauvais tapestry, and a

collection of 4854 engravings from the Louvre), three from the Emperor

of Russia, and thirty Egyptian musical instruments from the Khedive.

Thirty-one donations, including, of course, a much larger number of

objects, have been received from twenty-eight governments. In this list

Japan (two), Würtemberg (two), and the United States (three) are the

only governments which appear more than once; but I am sorry to say the

presents of the American Republic are limited to department reports,

the last being one from the War Department on gunshot wounds. Twenty

European museums have sent valuable gifts to this youngest member of

their family. Among private individuals, other than the donors of

collections, Sir Henry Cole, K.C.B., father of the museum, and his

family, are represented by twenty-eight valuable gifts--gifts, however,

which are little compared with the enthusiasm and intelligence they

lavished on the institution they saw planted as a seed, and may now

from their windows behold grown to its present large proportions.

Among the numerous gifts and bequests which the museum has received

during the past twenty years the following are the most important:

In 1857. By John Sheepshanks, Esq., 233 oil paintings, 289

water-color paintings, etchings, and other drawings. (Gift.) Mr.

Sheepshanks died in 1863.

In 1860 and in 1873. By Mrs. Elizabeth Ellison, 100 water-color

drawings. (Acting in the spirit of the intention of her late

husband, Richard Ellison, Esq., of Sudbrook House, Lincolnshire.)

For the purpose of forming a National Collection of Watercolor

Drawings. (Gift.)

In 1864. By Rev. R. Brooke, 396 objects, consisting of textiles,

watches, rings, etc., and 718 volumes of books. (Gift.)

In 1867. By Mrs. Wollaston, 270 drawings of mosaics. (Gift.)

In 1867. By W. Minshull Bigg, Esq., 3 works in marble by Lough:

“Puck,” “The Melancholy Jaques,” “Titania.” (Bequest.)

In 1867 and 1868. By Sir Charles Wentworth Dilke, Bart., M.P.,

297 volumes, 862 pamphlets, and 155 prints illustrating the Great

Exhibition, 1851. (Gift.) Died in 1869.

In 1868. By Mrs. Louisa Plumley, 43 enamel paintings by Essex,

Bone, etc. (Bequest.)

In 1868. By Professor Ella, 329 volumes of music, printed and in

MS.; 6 busts, 1 oil painting (a portrait of Rossini). From the

Library of the Musical Union Institute. (Gift.)

In 1868. By Rev. Chauncy Hare Townshend, 211 objects, chiefly

jewels, 189 oil paintings, 174 water-color paintings, 4218 Swiss

coins, 831 volumes, 390 drawings, 1815 prints. (Bequest.)

In 1869. By Rev. Alexander Dyce, 80 pictures, 63 miniatures, 802

drawings. 1511 prints, 74 rings, 27 art objects, 13,596 books.

(Bequest.)

In 1870. By William Gibbs, Esq., Roman and Anglo-Saxon ornaments

and other antiquities, chiefly found in Kent. (Bequest.)

In 1870. By Alfred Davis, Esq., a collection of coral. (Bequest.)

In 1870. By John Meeson Parsons, Esq., a collection of 92 oil and

47 water-color paintings. (Bequest.)

In 1871. By C. T. Maud, Esq., 6 oil paintings of the English

School. (Gift.)

In 1871. By W. S. Louch, Esq., 2 oil paintings, 2 water-colors,

etc. (Bequest.)

In 1871. By W. Smith, Esq., 86 early English water-color drawings.

(Gift.)

In 1872. By Thomas Millard, Esq., 197 gold and silver coins,

chiefly English. (Bequest.)

In 1872. By Mr. Tatlock, 15 drawings and paintings by De Wint, and

by Hilton. (Gift.)

In 1872. By Lady Walmsley, 13 oil paintings. (Gift.)

In 1873. By C. T. Maud. Esq., 11 water-color-drawings. (Gift.)

In 1874. By Alexander Barker, Esq., Venetian furniture of a

boudoir. (Bequest.)

In 1875. By Assimon, Delavigne, et Cie, a collection of French

lace. (Gift.)

In 1875. By Mrs. A. Nadporojsky, a collection of Russian lace.

(Gift.)

In 1876. By John Forster, Esq., 48 oil paintings, 74 frames of

water-color paintings and drawings, collections of drawings,

sketches, and engravings; collection of manuscripts and

autographs, library of printed and illustrated books.

In 1876. By Sir M. Digby and Lady Wyatt, 148 fans. (Gift.)

In 1876. By William Smith, Esq., 136 water-color drawings, and

also 700 volumes.

In 1882. By John Jones, Esq., pictures and virtu amounting to

£240,000. (Bequest.)

For the purpose of industrial and art education, the museum has

found the perfect casts and reproductions that can now be made not

inferior in value to original works. In this respect the international

convention, to which reference has already been made, has been of

immense advantage. As one of the signs of better times, to be set

against standing armies, the agreement deserves insertion in any

account of this museum. It was entered into during the Paris Exposition

of 1867, and in the following year communicated by the Prince of Wales

to the Lord President of the Council:

CONVENTION FOR PROMOTING UNIVERSAL REPRODUCTIONS OF WORKS OF

ART FOR THE BENEFIT OF MUSEUMS OF ALL COUNTRIES.

Throughout the world every country possesses fine historical

monuments of art of its own, which can easily be reproduced by

casts, electrotypes, photographs, and other processes, without the

slightest damage to the originals.

(_a_). The knowledge of such monuments is necessary to the

progress of art, and the reproductions of them would be of a high

value to all museums for public instruction.

(_b_). The commencement of a system of reproducing works of art

has been made by the South Kensington Museum, and illustrations

of it are now exhibited in the British section of the Paris

Exhibition, where may be seen specimens of French, Italian,

Spanish, Portuguese, German, Swiss, Russian, Hindoo, Celtic, and

English art.

(_c_). The following outline of operations is suggested:

I. Each country to form its own commission, according to its own

views, for obtaining such reproductions as it may desire for its

own museums.

II. The commissions of each country to correspond with one

another, and send information of what reproductions each causes to

be made, so that every country, if disposed, may take advantage of

the labors of other countries at a moderate cost.

III. Each country to arrange for making exchanges for objects

which it desires.

IV. In order to promote the formation of the proposed commissions

in each country, and facilitate the making of reproductions, the

undersigned members of the reigning families throughout Europe,

meeting at the Paris Exhibition of 1867, have signified their

approval of the plan, and their desire to promote the realization

of it.

The following Princes have already signed this convention:

Great Britain and Ireland { Albert Edward, Prince of Wales.

{ Alfred, Duke of Edinburgh.

Prussia Frederick William, Crown Prince of Prussia.

Hesse Louis, Prince of Hesse.

Saxony Albert, Prince Royal of Saxony.

France Prince Napoleon (Jerome).

Belgium Philippe, Comte de Flandre.

Russia The Czarowitz.

” Nicolas, Duc de Leuchtenberg.

Sweden and Norway Oscar, Prince of Sweden and Norway.

Italy Humbert, Prince Royal of Italy.

” Amadeus, Duke of Aosta.

Austria { Charles Louis, Archduke of Austria.

{ Rainer, Archduke of Austria.

Denmark Frederick, Crown Prince of Denmark.

PARIS, 1867.

[Illustration: ELKINGTON’S MARK.]

[Illustration: FRANCHI AND SON’S MARK.]

Cincinnati is already sharing these reproductions; and the signers of

the above document would gladly have the Governors of the American

States which possess museums add to it their names, and transatlantic

museums avail themselves of its advantages. These advantages are

very great, as, after one cast has been made, the cost of the rest

amounts to little more than that of material and transportation. This

kind of work is now done in such perfection that it were easy for an

untrained eye to doubt which is original and which reproduction. The

firms officially connected with the Science and Art Department always

use marks which have a money value in Europe. For three or four pounds

any museum or private collector may obtain perfect copies of ancient

shields, salt-cellars, tankards, tazzas, fire-dogs, knockers, whether

chased or _repoussé_. Old specimens of this kind are rare and costly.

A beautiful pair of bronze fire-dogs --pedestals surrounded by Cupids,

and supporting respectively Venus and Adonis--made in Venice about

1570, are rather costly, the work being intricate and the figures four

feet high; but Franchi’s copper-bronze copies at £30 are nearly as good

as the originals, which were considered cheap at the £300 paid by the

museum. A wonderful old Italian bronze knocker (1560), fourteen and

a half inches in height and thirteen inches wide, which cost £80, is

reproduced by the same firm for £4.

It is, however, the large casts of Oriental objects and ancient German

shrines that will probably be of paramount interest to an American.

It is here shown that the most notable and interesting objects in the

world can be copied with the utmost exactness, and in their actual

size, and brought within reach of the people of any country. Even

Trajan’s Column is here; and, though in this case it has had to be

set up in two columns instead of one, many others have confirmed my

experience of the impossibility in tracing out at Rome the figures

which cover it so satisfactorily as they can be made out at South

Kensington.

The 17th of May, 1880, is an historic day in the annals of the museum.

On that day was thrown open to the public its Indian section. A small

collection of Indian curiosities has long been wandering from one place

to another in London, and had finally been shelved at the very top of

the India Office. So, at any rate, it was stated, and most persons

were willing to accept the statement on faith by the time they reached

the third story of that edifice. However, the collection steadily

increased up there, and it was at length removed to some rooms at South

Kensington. But there it attracted little attention from the public,

though much from scholars, and it was publicly announced that it would

be closed because it did not pay expenses. The authorities ultimately

followed better counsels: they gave it up to the Direction of the South

Kensington Museum. The Queen loaned it the magnificent collection of

Oriental armor from Windsor Castle; Indian treasures hitherto dispersed

through the other courts of the museum were gathered together in the

new section; Dr. Leitner’s collection of Græco-Buddhist sculptures was

added; the walls adorned with Carpenter’s water-colors illustrative of

Indian scenery and life; and lo! London awaked one morning to find that

it had a new and splendid institution, which the Queen and her family

had visited the day before with “the greatest satisfaction.”

It is indeed a noble section; and if any one has read about India,

is at all interested in its pantheon, its mythology, or its relation

to the evolution of humanity, he may pass many fruitful days or even

weeks in these wonderful rooms. There is no university in the world

where one can learn so much about India, especially if he should

study these objects in connection with Fergusson’s _History of Indian

and Eastern Architecture_. Immediately on entering, one passes those

strange remains brought by Dr. Leitner from Peshawar, which exhibit the

influence of Greek art upon India at the time when Buddhism was there

in its zenith of power. Next we pass beneath the model of the great

Sanchi Tope Gate. The Buddhist Tope is a sort of mound or barrow, only

built of earth and stone with great care; it is shaped like a regular

dome, surrounded by a double railing, and is reached through four

large gates of the finest and most elaborate carvings. This hill-like

dome, wherever found, appears to have no other use than to contain

some tiny relic--one of Buddha’s hairs, say, or his toe-nail. In the

_Mahawanso_, the Buddhist history of Ceylon, it is said: “The chief of

the Devos, Sumano, supplicated of the deity worthy of offerings for an

offering. The Vanquisher, passing his hand over his head, bestowed on

him a handful of his pure blue locks from the growing hair of his head.

Receiving and depositing it in a superb golden casket, on the spot

where the divine teacher had stood, he enshrined the lock in an emerald

dagoba, and bowed down in worship.” The thorax-bone of Buddha is a

great relic; but most sacred of all is his left canine tooth, whose

shrine probably originated the famous Car of Juggernaut. Among the

treasures in this section is a drum-shaped reliquary of pure gold; it

is about three inches high by two in diameter, and panelled with saints

in relief. It was found in one of these huge topes; inside it were

wrappings within wrappings, and last of all some hardly distinguishable

speck representing an unknown saint.

The model of the great gate is probably the largest achievement of the

copying art ever known. In 1869 the party set out with twenty-eight

tons of materials, chiefly plaster-of-Paris; these were drawn by

bullocks one hundred and eighty miles; and in a year’s time three

full-sized casts of the magnificent structure were completed without

a flaw--which is marvellous, considering the extremely fine and

complicated character of the carvings. This structure, erected in the

first century of our era, is thirty-three feet in height. There are two

high pillars--every inch of whose surfaces is covered with symbolical

carvings--supporting capitals made of elephant-heads--the elephant

being the animal in whose shape Buddha descended for his incarnation.

Above the elephants three cross-beams are stretched, upholding

pinnacles bearing the phallic Trisul, the Wheel, the Lion. There are

winged lions that remind us of Assyrian influence; there are sieges

and wars (no doubt about the relics); scenes relating to the princely

and amorous years of Siddharta, but nothing of his asceticism or his

lowliness; everywhere symbolical forms, especially the serpent, which

is always intertwined with the emblems of early Buddhism, indicating

that his first converts were the serpent-worshippers called Nagas. The

intricacy and fineness of all this work, constituting, as Fergusson has

said, the “picture Bible of Buddhism,” are indescribable.

Throughout this Indian section there are large photographs

of the temples and palaces representing the eras of Indian

architecture--Buddhist, Dravidian, Jain, Moslem--and near many of

them actual specimens or casts of their ornamentation. Some of these

specimens of sculptured ornamentation fill one with amazement at the

degree of art-culture they imply, and by their refined beauty. Here the

capital of a pillar is fringed round with small elephant-heads; there

a pedestal is adorned with mounted horsemen in relief, so regularly

dispersed that at first they might hardly be noticed. There are some

architraves from Rajpootna, of the eleventh century, made up of gods,

goddesses, and symbolic forms, the tracery of which is so refined and

the execution so delicate that it would be impossible to find any

European work of like antiquity to equal it. These arts are still

kept up. There are some screens from Mirzapore and from Agra, made of

perforated sandstone or marble, which are meant for ventilation and

also to admit a little light: they are so delicate, and the figures so

fine-edged, as to induce one to touch them and make sure they are not

made of paper or wax.

Dr. Birdwood has prepared in two small volumes a fair hand-book of

this section, which, however, contains no direct references to the

objects. Useful as it is, a student will find that it is too apt to

take the conventional view of things, as, for example, when it speaks

of Hindoos throwing themselves beneath the Car of Juggernaut--an error

which Dr. Hunter exploded long ago. There is no doubt that the real

way to understand these objects, and to derive high benefit from this

unique collection, is to study them in connection with Dr. Fergusson’s

great work on Eastern architecture--certainly one of the greatest

archæological and descriptive books ever written.

The throne of Akbar was set in the air at the convergence of bridges,

so that no man might approach him without being inspected from the

surrounding windows, and any arms he might have about him observed.

Before removal to the new section it stood in all its grandeur, but

it has been considered sufficient to preserve the central column and

the large capital which supported the famous throne. It is wonderful,

indeed, that it should be left to this age and to England to appreciate

the romance of the East, and to revise, correct, and estimate the

traditions of the Oriental world concerning its own monarchs. Akbar,

for instance, bears the reputation in the East of having been an

archtyrant and a blasphemer, and the care he took in preparing this

curious building, with his throne suspended, as it were, in mid-air

for safety, is regarded as confirming the Oriental view. But the fact

is now known that the hostility excited by Akbar was through his

liberality in entering upon a comparative study of all religions,

arousing thereby the enmity of all their priesthoods. From being a

saint, to whom the people brought their sick that his breath might heal

them, the Emperor became in popular regard a demon. He instituted at

Delhi (<small>A.D.</small> 1542-1605) discussions on every Thursday

evening, to which he invited the most learned representatives of all

religions, allowing each his statement with strict impartiality; he had

as many as he could of the sacred books of each religion translated

for his library, though neither his threats nor bribes could extort

from the Brahmans their Vedas, which now are open to every English

reader through the labors of Max Müller. He tried in turns worshipping

Vishnu, Allah, the Sun, and Christ. Badáoní writes that “when the

strong embankment of our clear [Mussulman] law and our excellent faith

had once been broken through, his Majesty grew colder and colder.” This

sad result (in the view of Badáoní) being proved by the fact that “not

a trace of Mussulman feeling was left in his heart,” and “there grew

gradually, as the outline on a stone, the conviction in his heart that

there were sensible men of all religions.”

He had three wives representing these religious--Mehal (Hindoo), Roumi

(Moslem), Miriam (Christian). A great deal of Akbar’s toleration and

independence may be ascribed to the influence of his favorite sultana,

Mehal. She was a faithful, wise, and educated lady, who always held

the Emperor to his high standard. There is a miniature of her in this

museum, showing her in a rich gauze, or dress, diaphanous above the

waist; she is not burdened with jewels, as was the case with some of

her wealthy subjects, but wears the ornaments of a lowly and quiet

spirit.

Travels in South Kensington with Notes on Decorative Art and Architecture in England · 第 5 / 16 段