To Mr. F. W. Moody, one of the most energetic and accomplished teachers

at the museum, the institution is indebted for many instructive

experiments and designs in the way of decoration. No one should fail

to observe the very remarkable exterior wall decoration covering one

entire side of the new School of Science, which is a most complete

revival of the _sgraffito_ work of the fifteenth century. This

experiment by Mr. Moody of the high Renaissance in Italy has been

placed on a wall of the building not visible from the streets, but

only from the windows of the museum. It is analogous to the _niello_,

which was graven in silver and the lines filled in with carbon, making

a black picture on a white ground. (There is a good account of this

ornamentation, said to be the origin of all engraving for printed work,

in W. B. Scott’s _Half-hour Lectures_.) Mr. Moody’s experiment is made

by filling in the hollows of the cement, presenting a multiplicity of

scrolls, symbols, allegorical figures--Natura, Scientia, etc.--and

portraits of scientific men. The stairway from which this vast

work--covering the wall for four or five stories--can best be seen is

another interesting experiment of Mr. Moody’s. As befits a stairway

leading to the Ceramic Gallery, its ornaments are made of Minton

porcelain. The steps and facings of the steps are a kind of mosaic

made of hexagon pellets painted; the walls are panelled with white

porcelain; and their effect under the light falling through large

figured windows, toned rather than colored, is very good indeed.

Entering now the Ceramic Gallery, we find its contents illustrated by

a very ingeniously devised series of window etchings (as they may be

called), which are probably unique in the history of work on glass.

The windows on one side of this room, fifteen in number, each double,

were intrusted to Mr. William B. Scott, who as an archaeologist in

art has few superiors. Mr. Scott designed no fewer than forty-eight

large pictures, representing the history of ceramic art from the most

ancient Chinese, Egyptian, Indian, and Persian down to Wedgwood; and

these he has placed in the fifteen windows, where, unhappily, they are

little observed, being without mention, much less description, in any

work except that now before the reader. They are for the most part in

black and white, colors being introduced only once or twice, and then

but slightly. The first and second windows are devoted to the Chinese,

their work being, if not the earliest, the most ancient in porcelain,

and that which has most influenced the European art. Here is shown

their whole method, from the preparation of the clay, the half-naked

natives bringing the kaolin from caves in panniers, others steeping

it in water, refining it in large mortars, and kneading it on tables.

The potter is seen before his rude wheel, and forming the vessel by

hand-pressure. And after this we trace his work to the furnace, and on

to its place in the shop. This work implies the most patient study of

original Chinese models. One window represents characteristic Chinese

ornamentation--such as the royal dragon and the bird of paradise, and

a bazar at Pekin. The third window represents early Egyptian art. The

upper part shows the casting of brick by packing in boxes, and then

turning it out, all under the whip of the taskmaster, the work and

the whip being but little different to-day from what they were in the

ancient days whose relics have been so diligently studied by Mr. Scott

on the papyri of the British Museum. Beneath, a skilled workman is

painting a large Canopus: he is on his knees, with his feet doubled

behind him. One page, so to speak, of this window represents Assyrian

art by a triumphal procession, in which immense vases are carried on

ox trucks, and smaller ones on the heads of prisoners--a design based

upon discoveries in Nineveh which show the great importance that people

ascribed to earthenware. The fourth window is Greek and Etruscan. The

Greek legend of the origin of painting--the daughter of the potter of

Sicyon tracing on the wall the shadow of her lover on his leaving her

for a journey--is exquisitely done. Next we see the girl applying her

plan to her father’s vases. We have also depicted with learning the

honorary uses of pottery among the Greeks, the vases given as prizes

in public games, or as votive offerings for the dead, by which custom

the finest examples we have were transmitted; and, finally, there is

the genius of Death holding in her hand the cinerary urn. The fifth

window is Hispano-Moresque. The earliest ware in Europe after the

Samian of which we have any examples was that made by the Moors, who

brought the art of making it from east of the Mediterranean. This was

the famous “lustre-ware” which was supplied from Spain, which is now

so eagerly sought by collectors, both on account of its beauty and as

the origin of the Italian majolica. Specimens of this kind of pottery

have been found by Layard at Nineveh and at Ephesus. There appears

to be little doubt that it is of Persian origin. It must have been

always very difficult to make; in the modern manufacture about fifty

per cent. of the pieces come out of the furnace dull and worthless.

The fine specimens seem to the workmen happy accidents rather than the

steady results of any normal process upon which they can depend. The

first design in this window of Mr. Scott’s represents the master-potter

amidst his swarthy workmen watching the hour-glass beside the fire.

This wonderful lustre was the result of some utilization of smoke in

modifying the copper glaze, and was probably discovered by accident,

as so many fine effects in the ceramic art have been. This beautiful

ware has lately attracted especial attention in England because of

the experiments which Mr. De Morgan, son of the late mathematician

of University College, is making. He has tried nearly every kind of

smoke influence upon copper and silver pigments, in contact with glaze

and his success has been remarkable. These lustre-wares are still, I

believe, made in some parts of Spain in a small way; also at Gubbio, in

Italy; but the furnace of Mr. De Morgan at Chelsea is the most active

and successful in bringing out such wares in all their varieties.

[Illustration: ITALIAN MAJOLICA (URBINO). SIXTEENTH CENTURY.]

[Illustration: LAMP FROM AN ARABIAN MOSQUE--FOURTEENTH CENTURY.]

It adds greatly to the charm of these windows that they are as a frame

around the objects whose history they tell. Fine examples of the

“lustre-ware” from the earliest ages are in this gallery. And we have

only to turn round from admiring another part of this fifth window,

showing the building of the Alhambra, and its wonderful vase, to see

the finest copy of that unparalleled piece of lustre-ware. The vase

is four feet five and a half inches high, by eight feet two and a

half inches in circumference; it is decorated with two antelopes, and

foliations covering the body of the vase, intermingled with which are

African characters whose sense is “Felicity and Fortune,” “Permanent

Prosperity;” and the colors are brown and blue on a yellow ground,

the lustre being of a mother-of-pearl tint. From rich specimens of

ancient Italian majolica we in turn refer to the sixth window, which

shows us the embryonic and later phases of this beautiful art. The

Italians imitated the Hispano-Moresque lustre as well as they could,

but not being able to attain it exactly, they secured new tints of

their own, especially a very fine ruby lustre. Afterward they painted

their wares without trying to get lustres, to obtain which was perhaps

a work too slow and precarious to be profitable. The vast development

of ceramic art in Italy has required three windows--sixth, seventh, and

eighth--for its representation. First we have bird’s-eye views of the

localities with which it was chiefly associated: Urbino, the seat of

the finest ware made in the time of Raphael, wherein is portrayed their

process of softening and refining the clay by putting it in square pits

in the ground; Duranto, with its method of grinding the clay in a sort

of water-mill; Gubbio, with its own ingenious processes. Then we have

other Italian methods--foot-mill, hand-mill, horse-mill. An artist

is seen in his studio, receiving as sitters ladies whose portraits he

paints on plates that are to be their marriage gifts--a design taken

from a plate in the gallery painted by Maestro Giorgio--while other

details have been taken from a MS. by Piccolpasso, also preserved

in the museum. And, finally, we have a representation of Luca della

Robbia, of the fifteenth century, who used earthenware medallions,

admirably modelled and fired with white glaze, which were fixed on the

outside of buildings, and may be seen to-day on the Foundling Hospital

and several churches at Florence. The very word “majolica” (Majorca)

shows that the Italians found their art where the Moors left it. But

if they could not equal the moresque lustres, they certainly developed

and enriched their designs. Such decorations as that encircling the

figure of St. George on the Urbino plate (see engraving) may be called

“arabesque,” but they are equally Italian. It is curious to compare

such arabesques with the ornament on a piece of real Arabian work,

such as the accompanying ancient lamp. (This lamp, singularly enough,

is of a form represented in very early Italian bronze carvings of

sacred subjects.) Window ninth is devoted to Dutch tiles and pots and

Flanders-ware, which were once imported in such vast quantities to this

country: here they may be traced from their manufacture in Holland

to their sale in the Thames docks. Window tenth relates the curious

story of the Dresden-ware. Here it was that the famous material of

the best porcelain (kaolin), which was so long the secret of China,

was discovered by a happy accident--Böttcher, the alchemist, having

taken a notion to analyze the white dust which his barber had used to

powder his wig in a year of dear flour. The two men are represented,

and also the château of Meissen, where the first Dresden porcelain

was secretly made. Window eleventh tells the story of Palissy, who,

instructing himself, ruined his family: one leaf of the window shows

him feeding his furnace with his broken furniture, while his wife with

her babe stands beseechingly by; the other shows his triumph, as he

builds and decorates the grottoes in the Tuilleries garden. The story

recalls that of Benvenuto Cellini, who, having been seized with a fever

while casting his Perseus and Medusa, heard that his work was ruined.

Leaping from his bed, he found the furnace burst, but he saw the metal

was partly fused; he cast in two hundred pieces of his table-service,

and the mould was filled. The great work was saved, and so was the

artist; he ate a hearty meal with his workman, slept soundly, and was

himself again. Window twelfth is devoted to Sèvres, where porcelain

was carried to its highest perfection. The famous “Rose du Barry” and

“Bleu du Roi” are represented--and here exquisite colors are used--by

Louis XV. and Madame Du Barry exchanging vases of those colors. The old

manufactory is pictured, and some of its finest designs, in the lower

panes of the window. Near by is the beautiful specimen of Sèvres which

France contributed to the first International Exhibition in London. In

window thirteenth we are introduced to English wares, at present the

most excellent in the world. The processes described are--preparing

the clay, making different colored clays, stamping tiles, filling

color into moulds, “throwing,” “turning,” applying printed patterns.

It takes two of the double windows to display this, which brings us to

the fifteenth and last, in which there are four designs of the greatest

historical interest: Dr. Doddridge’s mother teaching her child Bible

history from the tiles in the fireplace; Dr. Samuel Johnson trying

experiments; figures of Josiah Wedgwood and Bentley, his partner;

Flaxman and Stothard, the painter. The two artists last named both

worked in decorating earthenware for Wedgwood. Flaxman was underpaid by

Wedgwood for the numerous models he supplied--models still used by the

firm. The poor artist has made the fortunes of three generations of his

employer’s family, whose present representatives are so liberal that

one must suppose their ancestor to have hardly realized the value of

the artist’s work until it was too late to reward him.

[Illustration: PALISSY, THE POTTER--WINDOW IN THE CERAMIC GALLERY.]

[Illustration: SÈVRES PORCELAIN VASE.--MODERN.]

[Illustration: HENRI DEUX CANDLESTICK.]

The visitor to the Ceramic Gallery in this museum will be apt to admit

that there were never windows that shed more light than these of the

kind required by a student. He will see lustres on the lustre-wares

beyond what mere sunlight can give, and the huge dragons, deer, and

horned birds on the Moresque-Spanish dishes will link the culture of

1882 with the barbaric mediæval mythology. He will, indeed, find at

every step that he is really exploring in this gallery of pots and

dishes strata marked all over with the vestiges of human and ethnical

development. Nothing can be more complete than the arrangement of the

gallery. Not only is it chronological, but beneath each particular

specimen a card tells when and where it was made, and the price paid

for it by the museum. If it has gone off with the floating collection,

the card reports that also. One may learn what changes have occurred

in the prices of such wares by finding Sèvres vases, for instance,

marked at £100 or £200, of a like character with those six for which

Lord Dudley recently paid £17,500. These are articles which, when first

collected, incited the first cabinet minister who inspected them to

ask, “What’s the use of all this trash?” There is a single candlestick

in this room now worth all the “trash” in that noble lord’s mansion. It

is a specimen of that famous “Henri Deux ware” of which only fifty-five

pieces exist, so far as is known. This elegant ware has been such a

puzzle to antiquarians that no fewer than thirteen different works

have been written about it. It was finally ascertained by M. Riocreux,

of the Imperial Ceramic Museum at Sèvres, that the pottery was made

at Oiron, in France; that two artists made it in the earlier part of

the sixteenth century for Henry II. and his queen, whose initials or

monograms are on several of the pieces; and the artists were François

Cherpentier and Jean Bernard. Cherpentier, the chief maker, had been

an architect, and when he set about working in earthen-ware he was

fond of moulding it in little monumental shapes, and filling in the

hollows with different colors. The candlestick has a pale yellow

ground, with arabesques, etc., in reddish-brown. The base is circular,

with projecting brackets, on which stand three boys holding shields

inscribed with the arms and cipher of Henri Deux. Above are three

terminal figures of satyrs. This work (which it is to be hoped will

some day be called by the artist’s name instead of the king’s) is less

than a foot high; it cost £750, and is one of the cheapest purchases

ever made. Seven of the fifty-five specimens of this ware are in the

collection of Sir Anthony de Rothschild, two in that of Baron Lionel

de Rothschild, two in that of Baron Gustave de Rothschild, three in

that of Baron Alphonse de Rothschild, while the Louvre has the same

number as the South Kensington Museum--five. Three very beautiful

specimens (candlestick, ewer, and large salt-cellar) were found some

years ago, very carefully wrapped in a blanket, placed in a wicker

clothes-basket, under a bed in a garret of Narford Hall. Our engraving

(p. 56) represents the candlestick so found. The pieces were no doubt

collected by Sir Andrew Fountaine in France, in the last century, and,

put away perhaps by some provident house-keeper, now turn up as a more

valuable bequest to the old connoisseur’s descendants than he could

have imagined, but which is rightly appreciated by the present owner

of the pieces, Mr. Andrew Fountaine. The other specimens of this Henri

Deux ware in this gallery are two tazzas, a plateau, and a wonderful

salt-cellar, of which last the skill of a pupil at South Kensington

enables me to give the linear design.

[Illustration: HENRI DEUX SALT-CELLAR.]

But it must not be supposed that this is merely an antiquarian

collection: the best work now going on all over the world is

represented, and one may see by the superb examples of modern

Berlin work and of Minton that England and Germany are engaged in a

competition for excellence which bids fair to distance anything done

in the past. What admirable work Minton can do may be estimated by the

embossed and tinted tiles surrounding the ten columns which support

the roof of this gallery. They reproduce the finest colors of the

Celadon porcelain of Sèvres. Around each column are letters forming

the names of the ten greatest potters--Vitalis (whose name was found

on a red vase of Samian-ware discovered in London in 1845), Giorgio

Andreoli, Luca della Robbia, Veit Hirschvogel of Nuremberg (1441-1525),

Xanto of Urbino (1547), Palissy (1510-89), François Cherpentier (maker

of the Henri Deux ware, otherwise called faïence d’Oiron), Böttcher

(1681-1719), Wedgwood (1730-95), and last, not least, Pousa, with

whom began the list of wondrous accidents with which the history and

traditions of pottery abound. Pousa is said to have been a workman in

the imperial porcelain factory of China. On one occasion the emperor

had ordered some great work, and Pousa tried long to produce it--in

vain. Finally, driven to despair, he plunged into the furnace. His

self-immolation caused such an effect upon the ware in the furnace

that it came out the most beautiful piece of porcelain ever known.

Pousa is now the patron saint of porcelain-workers in China, and is

kept near them in a little corpulent figure (porcelain), which is

familiar to many parts of the world where its story and sanctity are

unknown. The South Kensington Museum has carried out in its own case

this tradition of happy accidents, having been remarkable for its

good-luck. Some instances of it are in the Ceramic Gallery. Some years

ago a terrible explosion of gas occurred in the house of the famous art

collector and dealer, Mr. Gambart, at St. John’s Wood, by which the

house-maid was killed. M. Alma Tadema was a guest in the house, and

he had the presence of mind to open a window when he first perceived

that gas was escaping, by which means the disaster was mainly limited

to the dining-room. In this room were two large cabinets filled with

splendid specimens of Flemish “graybeards,” beakers, and similar wares,

and some of the best were smashed. As the fragments were about to be

cleared away, a friend of Mr. Gambart’s, who was also connected with

this museum, brought him an offer from the institution of £800 (as I

have heard; at any rate, a sum that was generous) for the collection,

broken and unbroken, and it was gratefully accepted. The skilled

workmen at the museum have put the bits together with such adroitness

that it requires a practised eye to distinguish the wares that

suffered. The magnificent reproduction of the Alhambra Vase by Baron

Davillier, elsewhere described, was exhibited at the Paris Exposition

of 1867, and an agent of the museum found it “going a-begging;” he

purchased it for far less than its actual value. And, indeed, I might

instance a vast number of similar cases not only in this particular

gallery--which we must now leave--but throughout the museum. The truth

is, the South Kensington Museum has shown that the present is the great

opportunity of museums, while it has done much to turn that tide on

whose flood it floated to fortune, by awakening nations to the value

of their treasures. The Oriental world, and, indeed, some portions

of Southern Europe, have hitherto been unconscious of the value of

their monuments, because only culture can prevent familiarity breeding

contempt. Miss Frances Power Cobbe once expressed in my hearing the

shock she received when, on first arriving at Old Alexandria, in Egypt,

she found her luggage set down on an ancient monument resembling

those treasured in the British Museum. How much the South Kensington

Museum has reaped from the indifference to objects whose value is not

intrinsic, and which for that reason are unique and inestimable, may

appear incidentally as I proceed to describe some of them, adding what

particulars I have been able to learn concerning their acquisition.

The little sixpenny guide-book sold at the door is necessarily

provisional; the historical and descriptive volume which such an

institution requires must remain a desideratum so long as the museum

itself is changing and growing daily before our eyes. But the materials

for that work exist; specialists have studied well the various

departments; there exist nearly twenty large Blue-books recording the

origin and growth of the museum; and when all these are sifted and

their connected story told--enriched, as we may hope it will be, from

the memories of those men who have founded and conducted the work to

its present condition--the history so told will be in itself a sort

of literary museum, replete with curiosities, picturesque incidents,

and romance. In this scattered condition of the facts I have had to

depend mainly on information given by the gentlemen just referred to,

and what scraps I could pick up in old newspaper files and Blue-books.

This it has appeared to me right to mention here, in explanation of any

slightness and unsatisfactoriness that may be found in the details, or

of the motley way in which they are put together.

If the history of this museum of civilization would record strange

instances of popular neglect for great works of art, it must at the

same time show that works of genius, in whatever perishable material

embodied, have a strange vitality. The Milonian Venus, twice buried

in the earth that she might not be harmed by the wrath of her Mars,

has had experiences hardly more significant than those through which

the sacred forms designed by Raphael--preserved by aid alike of king

and regicide, by aid, too, of the neglect which left them hidden for a

hundred years in lumber-rooms--have become the glorious inheritance of

South Kensington.

The seven cartoons--what would not now be paid for the three that are

lost![A]--were designed and drawn by the great artist and his scholars

at the request of Pope Leo X. (1513) as copies for tapestry, and the

tapestries made from them are now in the Vatican. They were made at

Arras, and the cartoons--so called because drawn on card-board--were

thrown into the warehouse there. Here they remained neglected until

they were seen by Rubens, who advised Charles I. to purchase them

for a tapestry establishment at Mortlake, near London. On the death

of the king, Oliver Cromwell paid £300 for them, intending that the

tapestry-works should be continued. On the fall of Cromwell they

were confiscated, and, for a second time, were thrust away into a

lumber-room, this time at Whitehall. Fortunately the designs were on

strips of paper twelve feet long, which could roll up, and so they

were able to survive such usage. The next time they attracted notice

was in the reign of William III., by whose order Sir Christopher Wren

prepared a room for them at Hampton Court. They were then carefully

lined with cloth. They were never removed again until placed in the

gallery prepared for them here, with the sometimes criticised and

certainly remarkable inscription beneath each, “Lent by the Queen.” The

last individual who clearly owned them was Oliver Cromwell, who paid

what was supposed a large sum (£300) for works which no amount could

purchase from the Protector’s true heir--the English Nation.

[Illustration: MICHAEL ANGELO’S EROS.]

Travels in South Kensington with Notes on Decorative Art and Architecture in England · 第 3 / 16 段