MAFUTA, THE BASUTO WITCH DOCTOR.

On the following morning, when I turned out and walked down to the river

to bathe, I debouched a little from the direct road in order to take a

peep at the dead leopard by daylight, the carcass having been left where

it had fallen. As I approached the place I saw that Piet and Jan, my

two Hottentots, were already busily engaged upon the task of removing

the skin; and I observed that both were looking, as I thought, very much

annoyed, and a little apprehensive. I was not long in discovering what

was the matter, for as I halted beside them Piet held up first the two

front paws and then the two hind paws of the beast, when I instantly

saw, to my intense annoyance, that every one of the claws had been

removed, and that therefore, as a trophy, the skin was quite useless.

Of course I knew that this was a common practice among the Kafirs, the

claws of the lion and the leopard being either worn by them as potent

amulets, or converted into muti, that is to say, medicine, which is

implicitly believed by them to impart the quality of courage to the one

who takes it; but I had been foolish enough to think that, having

solicited me to destroy their enemy for them, they would have regarded

the carcass as sacred from mutilation. They had not done so, however,

and that ended the matter, for I knew that it would be quite useless to

make a fuss about it: not a soul in the village would ever admit the

least knowledge of the theft.

While I was taking breakfast, about an hour later, 'Ngaga came up from

the village to express the hearty thanks of himself and the rest of the

inhabitants for the service which I had rendered them by destroying the

leopard; and when we had chatted for half an hour or so, and 'Ngaga had

accepted a present of a yard of brass wire, a handful of parti-coloured

beads, and a cotton handkerchief gorgeously emblazoned in red, blue,

green, and yellow, he said:

"'Nkos', after I left you last night I went to the hut of Mafuta and was

permitted to enter. I told the nyanga that you had undertaken to slay

the leopard that had been troubling us, and after I had spoken many

words concerning the greatness of the boon you would thus confer upon

us, I ventured to mention that you were desirous of consulting him in

relation to a certain quest which you have undertaken. I think, 'Nkos',

that if you would go now with me to Mafuta's hut, perhaps taking with

you as a gift another handkerchief such as this, the nyanga would be

willing to grant your request."

"You think so?" I said. "Then in that case let us go." And,

extracting from the voorkissie a handkerchief distinguished by a

particularly startling combination of colours, which I tucked into my

belt in such a manner that it could not fail to attract attention, I set

out for the village, accompanied by 'Ngaga, who, I understood, proposed

to act as a sort of sponsor for me, and to introduce me personally to

the great man.

The nyanga's hut was, as is generally the case, built at some little

distance--in the present instance about a quarter of a mile--from the

village proper, standing quite by itself, close to the stream, and close

under the shadow of a great clump of bush. Apart from this circumstance

there was nothing to distinguish it from the rest of the huts, it being

of the usual beehive shape, constructed of closely interwoven wattles,

thickly thatched with reeds and grass, and having an entrance so small

that it was necessary to bend double and stoop low in order to pass

through it. Also it was windowless, the only illumination of the

interior being derived from such light as came through the low door;

consequently when one first entered such a hut the contrast between the

obscurity of the interior and the glare of the blazing sunlight outside

produced an impression of profound darkness, this only passing away as

the eye gradually accustomed itself to the gloom, after which one found,

somewhat to one's surprise, that there was light enough to see

everything with a very tolerable degree of distinctness.

As 'Ngaga preceded me into the hut I heard a low murmur of greeting pass

between him and someone else, which told me that the owner was at home;

then I followed and stood upright in what was, to my eye, inky

blackness.

"S'a bon', 'mlungu (I see you, white man)!" said a deep, resonant voice

from the depth of the darkness.

"Yebo (yes), Mafuta," answered I, that being the usual interchange of

salutations between the native and the white when the former esteems

himself the equal of the latter; and I stood, blinking and striving to

penetrate the obscurity. Gradually the darkness melted into a sort of

sombre twilight, which by imperceptible degrees grew stronger, and

presently I saw that I was in a hut the sole furniture of which

consisted of a pallet, raised about a foot from the floor, and covered

with rich karosses or skin rugs--one, I observed, being made entirely of

leopard-skins. On one end of this pallet was seated a man of perhaps

forty years of age, wearing a keshla, or head ring, and a mucha, or

apron, made apparently of monkey skins. The man's shield and sheaf of

assagais stood close at hand against the wall of the hut, and a

ponderous knobkerrie hung just overhead, slung by a loop of rimpi; but

the hut contained nothing to distinguish it from that of any other

native, and I confess that my first feeling was one of disappointment,

for I had never before been in the hut of a nyanga, and I had been led

to believe by those who had that I should see all sorts of strange and

weird-looking objects if I ever happened to penetrate to the interior of

a Kafir witch doctor's hut. The owner seemed to read my disappointment

in my eyes, for he laughed softly as he waved his hand, indicating the

emptiness of the hut.

"I do not need the things for which you are looking, 'mlungu," he said;

"my magic is different from that of all other nyangas--and much more

potent, as mayhap you shall see for yourself. Be seated," he continued,

waving me toward the other end of the couch; "and as for you, 'Ngaga,

having brought the 'mlungu hither, your task is accomplished, and you

may depart."

So, while I deposited myself upon the pallet, 'Ngaga bade us both a

somewhat ceremonious farewell, and vanished through the opening into the

blazing sunlight without.

Then Mafuta began to talk to me about my journey and the incidents, such

as they were, that had thus far marked it; and I confess that I was

astounded at the intimate knowledge of these matters which he displayed.

Of course I knew that my "boys" might have, and very possibly had,

spoken of them to 'Ngaga and the other Basutos during their gossip round

the fire on the previous evening; yet this man, Mafuta, seemed to know

more about the details of them than was likely to have transpired during

such a conversation, which was probably of an exceedingly desultory and

general character. Yet even this was not so surprising as the knowledge

he displayed of the twofold object of my journey, which I knew he could

not have acquired from my "boys", because even they were ignorant of it,

all that they actually knew being that the journey was ostensibly

undertaken for the purpose of collecting ivory. But without questioning

me at all upon the subject, the nyanga made it clear to me that he was

fully aware of the fact that one great object of my journey was to get

gold rather than ivory.

"Yet even that," said he, "is not all that you seek upon this journey;

important as it is that you should find the yellow metal which the white

man values so greatly, you are even more anxious to find something else:

is it not so? And so anxious are you to find it that, although you

doubt Mafuta's power, you have come to him to see if he can help you."

"It is true," I admitted; "and the fact that you know so much of my most

secret desires and intentions inclines me to hope, and almost to

believe, that you can help me. Do you think you can?"

"It may be, 'mlungu; it may be," he answered. "The white 'ntombozaan

(girl) still lives and is well, for I last night took the trouble to

seek for and find her; but where she is I cannot say, for the place is

strange to me, I having never seen it with my bodily eyes."

I fairly gasped with amazement, for this was the first time that Nell

Lestrange had been mentioned since my arrival in the village, and it was

not I who had spoken of her, but a savage to whom even the bare fact of

her existence might be supposed to be unknown--unless--unless those who

originally carried her off had chanced to pass this way. Yet, even

then--

"Tell me," I shouted, seizing the nyanga by the arm, rather roughly, I

am afraid, in my excitement, "what do you know of her? How long is it

since you saw her? And who are they who carried her off?"

"Gahle (gently), white man! gahle!" returned Mafuta, snatching his arm

out of my grasp. "I know nothing of the 'ntombi save what I saw last

night. But you came hither to procure my help to find her, and such

help as I can give shall be yours. As I told you, I know not where she

is, for I never saw the place with my bodily eyes, but I will show it to

you, so that if ever you come to the place you may know it. Will that

satisfy you?"

"But," I objected, "if you are able to show me the place, surely you can

tell me the name of it, and in which direction I should travel to reach

it?"

"Nay, 'mlungu, I cannot do that," answered Mafuta. "My power is not so

great as that. I can but show you the person whom you desire to see; it

must rest with you to note that person's surroundings so carefully that,

should you ever arrive at the place, you will recognise it again. Or

perhaps by describing it to others you may be able to find someone who

has been there and who, recognising it from your description, will be

able to tell you its name and where it is."

"Very well, then," said I; "do what you can to help me, Mafuta, and I

will be for ever obliged to you."

"Muchli (good)!" exclaimed Mafuta. "Sit where you are, and do exactly

as I bid you." He rose from his seat, groped among the thatch of the

hut for a moment, and presently produced a small, circular object about

the size of an ordinary coat button. It was as brightly burnished as

the surface of a mirror, and he placed it upright on the floor of the

hut in such a position that, while itself in deep shadow, it strongly

reflected the light which entered through the doorway right into my

eyes, dazzling them to such an extent that, for a few moments, I could

scarcely bear to look at it. Presently, however, that feeling passed

away, and I was able to gaze upon it without discomfort.

"Now," said Mafuta, "look steadfastly at that, never removing your eyes

from it for a moment, and see what happens." And, thus saying, the man

went and squatted himself upon his heels in the centre of the floor, and

began to chant, in a low, monotonous voice, certain words the meaning of

which I could not comprehend.

For a few minutes nothing particular seemed to happen: the disk

continued to shine strongly in the midst of the deep shadow, and

Mafuta's low, monotonous song went on. Then, so gradually that I knew

not when the change began, I lost consciousness of everything except the

gleaming disk and the sound of Mafuta's voice, from which all semblance

of words had passed. Then the disk seemed slowly to fade out of sight,

Mafuta's voice died away to silence, and I found myself seemingly

standing upon gently rising ground, with a native village, of such

dimensions that it deserved rather the name of a town, about a quarter

of a mile distant on my left front. The first thing that I particularly

observed about this place, apart from its exceptional size, was that it

was built in the shape of a circle, and was entirely fenced in with a

strong, high palisade. There was a gate in the fence, nearly opposite

me, and a number of people, mostly men, were coming and going through

the gateway. They were splendid specimens of the South African savage,

but, look as I would, I could discover nothing either in their cast of

features or in their trappings by which to identify them.

The town was built upon the top of the slope on which I stood, and about

a quarter of a mile distant from it I noted a rather remarkable kopje

which I thought would surely enable me to recognise the place if ever I

should chance to set my bodily eyes upon it. It was perhaps seventy or

eighty feet high, and at its summit it measured, as nearly as I could

guess, about two hundred yards long. It was hog-backed in shape, and

was strewn here and there with great, tumbled masses of dark-coloured

rock, among which grew a few straggling bushes. The most remarkable

thing about this particular kopje, however, was that, notwithstanding

its close proximity to the town, it appeared to be the haunt of

innumerable vultures, some forty or fifty of which were perched upon the

rocks at that moment. The landscape on which this unknown savage town

was set was of the usual South African type, namely, gently undulating,

the hills retiring one behind the other into the extreme distance until,

toward the west--I got my bearings from the sun, of course--they merged

into what might almost be termed mountains, while eastward the land

stretched away in a vast plain. The soil was densely covered with long,

thick grass, which was already beginning to look bleached and parched

here and there for want of rain; and scattered pretty thickly over the

country were the usual patches of bush. On my right the land fell away

to a spacious flat, a thousand acres or more in extent, upon which vast

herds of cattle were grazing, and through which a stream some thirty

feet in width gently meandered.

As I stood noting all these details, three young girls emerged from the

main gate of the town, two of them being dark-brown, while the third was

white--Nell Lestrange! I recognised the dear child instantly, although

she had altered greatly--as I thought, for the better--since I had seen

her last. She was talking and laughing gaily with her companions, I was

glad to see, for that indicated that she was well and happy; yet, even

as this thought flashed through my mind, she fell silent for a moment

and a look of sadness clouded her face. She was bareheaded and

barefooted, the garment which she wore being a sort of frock apparently

modelled from those which she had worn while at Triannon, and made of a

peculiar kind of cloth the nature of which I could not recognise.

Instinctively I stretched out my hands toward her and strove to call her

name, but no sound passed my lips, and, to my intense disappointment, I

found that I could not move. The trio passed me about a hundred yards

distant, and I distinctly heard their voices, but could not catch the

words they spoke, otherwise I might possibly have recognised the

language and thus gained a clue to the locality; and although, just as

they were passing before me, Nell looked straight in my direction, and

even paused for an instant, she immediately went on again, casting a

single glance back over her shoulder and then continuing on her way

until she disappeared beyond a clump of bush near the river. And with

her disappearance the whole scene vanished and I found myself back in

Mafuta's hut, with the disk still gleaming brightly out of the deep

shadow, and Mafuta still squatting on his heels in the centre of the

floor.

"Well, white man," he said, as I came to myself, "have you seen aught?"

"I have," said I, "and I feel bound to admit that you are the possessor

of most extraordinary powers, Mafuta. Yes, I saw the 'ntombozaan; and,

as you said, she seems to be both happy and in the enjoyment of

excellent health. But what I now want to know is where she is. Surely

there are not so many big kraals scattered about in Kafirland that the

one which you have just shown me should be difficult to find?"

"What did it look like, 'mlungu?" demanded Mafuta.

"What did it look like?" I repeated. "Is not that a quite unnecessary

question to ask, Mafuta? You must have seen everything that I saw,

otherwise--"

"Nay," interrupted Mafuta, "I saw nothing; nor do I know what you saw,

excepting that I willed you to see the 'ntombi. Tell me everything that

you beheld, and maybe I can help you to find the place."

Thereupon I proceeded to describe minutely the entire scene as I had

beheld it, the big town with its huts, to the number of two thousand or

more, symmetrically arranged within its circle of stout, high palings;

the kopje close by, with its scattered piles of rock interspersed with

straggling clumps of bush, and its vultures; the great plain with its

herds of grazing cattle beside the stream--in short, every feature of my

vision, as I vividly recalled it. And when I had finished, Mafuta sat

for several minutes ruminating deeply. At length, however, he looked

up, and, shaking his head, said:

"White man, I have never seen the place you describe, otherwise I am

sure that I should recognise it. The kopje with its rocks and its

aasvogels would alone suffice for its identification. That kopje is

doubtless the place where criminals are executed; the presence of the

aasvogels seems to indicate that. And the size and general importance

of the place lead me to believe that it is where a king sits; but what

king I know not. Of one thing, however, I can assure you; it is not

Moshesh's Place."

"Well," said I, "that at least is something to know, for it is one place

the less to trouble about. And that is all the help you can give me?"

"That is all the help I can give you," repeated Mafuta.

"But surely it is much, is it not, 'mlungu? You have seen the place

with the eyes of your mind, seen it as plainly as if you had beheld it

with your bodily eyes; and you will remember what it looks like. You

will be able to describe it minutely to others; and as you go upon your

way you will have opportunity to speak of it to others, and--yes, it

comes to me that eventually you will meet with one who will enable you

to find it."

"Thanks, very much," said I. "That is a most comforting thing to know,

and, since you say that such a thing will happen, I quite believe it

will, after the exhibition of your powers which you have already given

me. Will you accept this as a gift from me?" I added, producing the

brilliantly marked handkerchief from my belt and offering it to the

nyanga.

"My thanks, 'mlungu," answered the man, taking the handkerchief and

depositing it upon the pallet. "And now," he continued, "I think you

will do well to proceed without undue delay to Moshesh's kraal. 'Ngaga

has already dispatched a messenger apprising the king of your presence

in his country, and, if you ask permission to pass through and hunt in

it, the Great One will doubtless give it, especially as you have

rendered his people the service of slaying the leopard that has been

preying upon them. But the king is jealous of his own authority, and is

apt to resent intrusion into his country without permission first asked;

also he is a little distrustful of the white man, whom he suspects of a

desire to steal the black man's land. Therefore present yourself before

him as early as may be."

"Thanks, Mafuta, I will do as you say. Farewell, and may all prosperity

attend you," said I, as I took my leave.

"Sala guhli (farewell), 'mlungu!" replied the Kafir, following me out

and standing by the door of the hut. "I see much trouble and many

dangers before thee; but be of good heart, for thou shalt overcome them

all."

Two days later I arrived at the king's kraal.

It was near mid-afternoon when I halted the wagon and ordered Jan to

outspan at a point about half a mile from the kraal: and I immediately

dispatched Piet with a message to the effect that I, Edward Laurence, an

Englishman, had arrived at the kraal for the purpose of personally

soliciting permission from King Moshesh to hunt in and pass through his

country; and that for this purpose, and that I might crave His Majesty's

acceptance of certain presents, I might be granted the favour of an

early audience. Then I opened the voorkissie and proceeded to select

the presents which I would offer for the savage king's acceptance.

Gaudily coloured handkerchiefs, and, more particularly, brilliantly hued

articles of costume have from time immemorial strongly appealed to the

taste of the untutored savage, and I had kept this fact prominently in

mind when purchasing the goods which I intended to use as presents and

for the purposes of barter; therefore, among other things, I had bought

several cast-off British uniforms of various descriptions, these being

designed especially for presentation to the several savage monarchs with

whom I expected to be brought into contact. So now, after due

consideration, I drew forth a drum-major's scarlet tunic, stiff with

tarnished gold braid, minus its regimental buttons, shockingly soiled,

and otherwise very much the worse for wear; a pair of ditto blue

trousers, with gold braid running down the outer seam; a naval

lieutenant's cocked hat, in which I inserted a bunch of cock's tail

feathers; an infantryman's white leather belt, with bayonet and sheath;

and a small round shaving mirror in a metal frame, which had cost me

sixpence, if I remember rightly: and made up the whole into a neat

bundle, in readiness for the moment when I should be summoned to the

royal presence. Then I proceeded to take particular note of the capital

of Basutoland.

It was a place of considerable importance, consisting of about a

thousand huts enclosed, like the place of my vision, in a very strong

and high palisade, rendered unclimbable by having the upper extremities

of the palings trimmed into long sharp points. It was built upon the

summit of a low knoll, was rectangular in plan, and covered an area of

about twenty acres of ground; and that was about all that I could

discover concerning it in the meantime, since the palisading was much

too high to permit of my seeing anything inside it.

After an absence of nearly an hour Piet returned with the information

that he had been detained at the outer gate of the kraal while my

message was conveyed to the king, and that during his detention he had

been subjected to a pretty severe cross-examination by an induna or

chief, respecting the purpose of my journey, my destination, and so on;

that, finally, a message had been returned by the king that when he was

ready to see me he would send for me, and meanwhile I was to remain

where I was and not attempt to enter the kraal. I confess that I was a

trifle disappointed at this reception, which I regarded as distinctly

chilly; but Mafuta had afforded me a little insight into the king's

character, and I trusted that a personal interview, coupled with a sight

of the resplendent drum-major's tunic and the rest of the outfit, would,

arouse a feeling of greater geniality in the breast of the savage

autocrat. So I hung about the wagon for the remainder of that day,

waiting for a summons which did not come. Nevertheless, although the

king did not condescend to manifest any undue eagerness to see me, I was

not exactly left to pine in solitude, for several of the inhabitants of

the town came out to gossip with my "boys", while no less than three

indunas suffered their curiosity to overcome their dignity so far as to

pay me an informal visit and ask me countless questions--for it must be

remembered that, at the time of which I am now writing, it was very

unusual for a white man to cross the border of his own territory into

the wilds, and one of the men who on that occasion spoke to me had only

once before seen such an individual.

It was amusing to note the rapid change of manner in these men as they

conversed with me. Upon their first approach they began to question me

with a certain curt abruptness which I easily interpreted as being

intended to convey the idea that their visit was more or less of an

official character; but all the while their eyes were wandering hither

and thither, taking in every detail of my dress and equipment, as well

as the wagon and its contents, and it was not very long before they

began to enquire what was the use of this, that, and the other. Of

course I answered all their questions as fully as I could, and not only

so, but I also exhibited a few of my gewgaws, hinting that certain of

them might become their own property before long, although I did not

then offer any presents for their acceptance, it being contrary to

savage etiquette to do so before the king had been interviewed and

propitiated. They were, of course, intensely interested in my guns, and

were full of amazement when I bowled over a carrion crow at a distance

of six hundred yards with a rifle bullet; and they did not hesitate to

hint plainly that nothing could possibly be more acceptable to the king

than the gift of one of my fire weapons. I explained, however, that the

fire weapon was very powerful and very dangerous magic, subservient only

to the white man, and that I dared not allow any of them even to touch

one, lest it should turn upon and slay them. But they were quite as

profoundly impressed by my exhibition of the powers of the

burning-glass, several of which I had taken the precaution to include in

my stock; and when they saw me kindle a fire with its assistance they

could find no words in which to express adequately their wonder and

admiration.

It is more than probable that, upon their return to the kraal, they

found means to convey to the king's ear some impression of the wonders

which the white man had revealed to them, for I had scarcely finished my

breakfast on the following morning when a messenger arrived at the wagon

with the intimation that King Moshesh commanded my immediate presence

before him.

I at once arose and, unarmed, accompanied the messenger, with Piet in

close attendance, bearing the parcel containing the presents which I

designed to offer for His Majesty's acceptance. As I approached the

open gate in the palisade a number of people, both men and women, were

passing in and out, all of whom regarded me curiously. A few of the men

saluted me with upraised right hand and the exclamation "'Nkos'!" but

for the most part they seemed undecided whether to regard me as a friend

or an enemy, and therefore preferred for the moment to maintain an

attitude of neutrality. Immediately inside the gate there stood a guard

of twenty men, fully armed with shield, assagai, and knobkerrie, under

the command of an induna, and here we were stopped, for the induna

seemed indisposed to allow Piet to accompany me; but I explained that he

was my body servant, and that the bundle which he bore contained

presents designed for the king's acceptance, whereupon we were, somewhat

reluctantly, permitted to pass on. Naturally, we were no sooner inside

the gate than I began to look about me, and the first thing that struck

me was the admirable arrangements which had been made for the defence of

the place in case of attack. For while the top of the palisade was, on

the outside, about fifteen feet above the surface of the ground, on the

inside it had been backed up with earth forming a platform about twelve

feet wide and just high enough for a man of average height to see

between the sharpened points; while at a height of about four feet above

the level of the platform there was a continuous row of slits, about

eight inches high by two inches wide, and about nine inches apart, the

obvious purpose of which was to afford the occupants of the platform an

opportunity to thrust with their spears at a foe attempting to scale the

palisade from the outside, without unduly exposing themselves. Approach

to the summit of the platform was obtained by a continuous flight of

rough steps cut in the earth all along its face, and next the foot of

the steps was a road of about twelve feet wide. Then came the outer row

of huts, between which and the next row was another road, about eight

feet wide. There were four rows of huts running entirely round the

enclosure, inside of which again was another palisade, equally as strong

and as high as the first. And, as in the case of the first palisade,

this also had a single gate, guarded by twenty fully armed men under the

command of an induna. We were permitted to pass through this second

gate unchallenged, and having done this I found myself in an open square

of about five acres in extent, near the far side of which were seven

huts, or houses, rather, for they were considerably larger and in every

way more important than the ordinary Kafir hut. Six of these--square

structures built of "wattle-and-daub" and roofed with thatch, the

largest of them measuring about twenty feet by twelve, and about seven

feet high to the overhanging eaves--were built in a row, with spaces of

about six feet between them; while the seventh, which I rightly

conjectured to be the itunkulu, or King's House, stood about twelve feet

in front of the others, and was about the same size as the largest of

them.

We were now upon what may be termed sacred ground, that is to say,

ground reserved for the exclusive use of the king himself and the

members of his immediate household; nobody being permitted to enter here

except persons belonging to the royal family, those especially invited

by the king, the chief witch doctor, and the king's own bodyguard,

consisting of one hundred specially picked men, under the command of an

induna who also filled the office of chief adviser, or prime minister,

to the king. At the moment of our entrance not a person but ourselves

was visible in the square, except the guard at the gate; but a few

seconds later twenty soldiers under the command of a very

splendid-looking officer emerged from one of the buildings and took up a

position on either side of a chair hewn out of a solid block of wood and

draped with a magnificent lion-skin kaross, which stood some half a

dozen paces in front of the itunkulu.

These men were the finest-looking body of savage warriors that I had up

till then ever seen, every one of them being quite as tall as, and far

more firmly knit than myself; while the chief was a truly magnificent

man, standing at least six feet two on his bare feet, with the limbs and

frame of a Hercules. They were all dressed in leopard-skin muchas, with

bracelets, armlets, garters, and anklets of cows' tails; all wore

keshlas; and each man carried a long shield and three throwing assagais

in his left hand, while in his right he held a stabbing assagai with a

terrible double-edged blade about six inches wide and eighteen inches

long. Their commanding officer was similarly armed; but in addition to

the leopard-skin mucha he wore a leopard-skin cloak, a necklace of

lions' teeth and claws, and a headdress made of beads and ostrich

feathers. Every man of these twenty-one savage warriors showed upon his

person the scars of many wounds, and carried himself with a pride of

bearing which forbade him to display the slightest sign of consciousness

of our presence.

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