His Excellency the Ambassador arrives at Tauris, a royal city
of Persia, where, not meeting Ussuncassan, he presents himself
to his son. Leaving Tauris, he travels many days through
Persia, and arrives at length at the city of Spaan, where he
meets the Shah.
On the 22nd, we began to ascend a high mountain, the summit of which
we had nearly reached at night, when we were obliged to rest, without
water. We rode on again early the next morning, and when we had descended
the mountain we were in the country of Ussuncassan; that is to say, we
had entered Armenia. In the evening we arrived at a castle garrisoned
by Turks belonging to Ussuncassan, called Lores, situated in a kind of
plain, below which, however, passes a very deep river. On the other side
there is a mountain, and, in front of the river, an Armenian village,
where we were certainly well received and where we lodged until the
25th, partly for the purpose of resting ourselves, and partly in order
to obtain a guide. The Armenian whom I had brought from Cafà, who said
he was a subject of Ussuncassan, was found to be a great rogue, and I
was told by these Armenians, that I had been very lucky in escaping
from his hands. I therefore kept back a horse, which I had given to him,
and dismissed him, and took, as my guide as far as Tauris, an Armenian
priest, who proved very faithful.
On the 26th, we five, together with the priest, left Lores and crossed a
mountain, and in the evening came to a plain surrounded by mountains, and
reached a Turkish village, where we were very well received, and we slept
in the open air.
On the 27th, we started before daybreak to pass another mountain, on
the descent of which, we were told, there was a village of Turks, which
it would be dangerous for us to pass in the day time. We were fortunate
enough to pass it at a time, when, I believe, we were not seen. We then
entered a very fine country and made every effort to increase the length
of our stages, taking little rest except at night, and sleeping in the
open air. We thus travelled through this country until the 28th, when we
reached the mountain of Noah, which is very high and covered with snow,
from the summit to the base, throughout the year. It is said that many
persons have attempted to reach the top. Some have never returned, and
those who have returned, say that it does not appear to them that a way
up will ever be found. Travelling until the 30th through a flat country,
with the exception of a few hills of no importance, we came to a castle
belonging to free Armenian Franks, who call themselves Chiagri, where we
remained till the 31st to take a little rest, as we had provisions of
bread, poultry, and wine.
On the 1st of August, 1474, we were obliged to take another guide for
Tauris, and we started at vespers.
On the 2nd, we arrived at another tolerably good Armenian village,
situated on the side of a mountain, where we had to cross a river in a
strange kind of boat used there. It is said that on the banks of this
river, but much more to the east, the Soldan Busech came to give battle
to Ussuncassan, and that while Ussuncassan was on one side and the
Tartar on the other, the Tartars became so weakened by disease produced
by scarcity of provisions that Ussuncassan routed them, and captured the
Soldan Busech, whom he caused to be beheaded. We crossed this river, on
the left bank of which are situated eleven Armenian villages near to each
other, having their bishop and being all subject to the Pope. There is
not a finer nor a more fertile country than this in all Persia.
On the 3rd, we came to a small town called Marerichi, where we rested for
the night.
On the 4th, we started early and travelled through the plains; the
weather was excessively hot, and we could not find good water anywhere.
I must observe that, from the time we left Loreo, while travelling
through the places I have mentioned, we met a great many Turcomans, with
their families, who were changing their quarters, in search of fresh
pasture: it being their custom to remain encamped where the pasturage
is abundant, until it is all consumed; after which they go in search
of fresh. We also passed some of their encampments. These men are an
accursed race and arrant thieves, and certainly caused us great fear. By
making known to them, however, that I was going to their sovereign, we
managed by the help of God, to pass on.
On this day, about the hour of vespers, we entered the city of Tauris,
situated in a plain and surrounded by dismal-looking earthen walls.
There are near here several red mountains (monti rossi), which are
said to be the Tauri mountains. When we entered this city we found it
in great commotion, and it was with much difficulty that I reached a
caravanserai, where we lodged. Passing among some Turks I heard them
say, “These are the dogs who come to create a schism in the Mahometan
religion; we ought to cut them to pieces.” Having dismounted at the
caravanserai, the Azamo, who certainly appeared to be a good sort of
person, provided us with a couple of rooms. His first words were to
express astonishment at our safe arrival, which he appeared to think was
a thing scarcely credible, as he gave us to understand, what I myself had
observed, that the streets were all barricaded. On my wishing to know
the reason, he said that Gurlumameth, the valiant son of Ussuncassan,
had gone to war with his father and had seized one of the chief towns of
Persia called Siras, which he had given up to the Sultan Chali and to
his mother-in-law. In consequence of this Ussuncassan had raised an army
and was marching towards Siras to expel him. There was a mountain chief
also of the name of Zagarli in league with Gurlumameth and commanding
above three thousand horsemen, who made inroads and ravaged the country
as far as Tauris; and it was from fear of him that the streets were
barricaded. He also told me that his Subassi, who had gone out to meet
this Zagarli, had been routed and despoiled of everything, and was very
thankful to return to Tauris. On my asking him why all the people of the
city did not sally forth, he replied that they were not fighting men, but
gave obedience to any chief who had possession of the city. I tried all
means to leave Tauris and go in quest of the Shah, but could not find
a man to accompany me, nor could I obtain any favour of the Subassi. I
was, therefore, obliged to remain in the caravanserai, the master of
which recommended me to keep in concealment. I was, however, sometimes
obliged to go out to buy provisions, or to send my interpreter or a
certain Astustin of Pavia who had accompanied me from Cafà, as he had
some knowledge of the language. They both suffered much abuse and were
told that we ought to be cut to pieces. After a few days there arrived a
son of Ussuncassan named Massubei, accompanied by a thousand horsemen, to
take the government of Tauris, on account of the fear caused by Zagarli,
to whom I went, and with difficulty obtained an audience. I was obliged
to give him a piece of camlet, and when I had saluted him, I said that I
was going to the Shah, his father, and begged him to let me have a good
escort. He scarcely answered me and appeared not to care; so I returned
to my lodging. Things then began to get worse; for, when Massubei wanted
to obtain money from the people in order to raise an army, they refused
to give him any, and closed all the shops. I was, therefore, obliged to
leave the caravanserai and go to an Armenian church, where I obtained a
small space for lodging for ourselves and our horses, and I could not let
any of my people go out. One may imagine our state of mind, in constant
dread of ill-usage; but our Lord God, who had taken compassion on us
hitherto, in so many perils, was again pleased to save us.
On the 5th of September, 1474, while still in Tauris, there arrived,
on a mission from our Illustrious Signory to the Shah Ussuncassan,
Bartholomeo Liompardo, who had visited me in Cafà, accompanied by his
nephew Brancalion. Having come by way of Trabisonda he arrived a month
after me. I now resolved to send the above-mentioned Agustino, by way of
Aleppo, to Venice with my letters, to inform the Illustrious Signory of
everything that had taken place, and he arrived at his destination in
safety, after many perils. I staid in Tauris until the 22nd of September.
I cannot say much about Tauris, as I remained continually in concealment.
It is a large city, and much amber is met with in it. I do not think it
is very populous. It abounds in all kinds of provisions, but everything
is dear. It contains many bazaars. A great quantity of silk passes
through in caravans, bound for Aleppo, and there are many light articles
of silk from the manufactures of Jesdi, and a great deal of fustian and
merchandise of almost every kind. Of jewels I heard no mention. As my
good fortune would have it, the Cadi Lascher,—one of the most important
personages about Ussuncassan, who had been on an embassy to the Soldan
for the purpose of concluding a peace, without, however, succeeding,—came
to Tauris on his way back to his sovereign. As soon as I knew this, I
sought an interview with him, made him a present, and begged that he
would allow me to travel in his company, as I was going to the Shah
on important business. He granted my request in the most gracious and
courteous manner, saying that he gladly accepted my company and trusted
in God to conduct me in safety to his sovereign. It appeared to me to be
a proof of the grace of God; for which I tendered many thanks. The Cadi
had two renegade Slavonian slaves with him, who formed a close friendship
with my servants, and made them offers of assistance. They promised me
also that when their master was going to leave they would let me know,
which they did, and I made them a present, which was profitable to me.
On the 22nd, as I have said, we left Tauris with the Cadi Lascher. A
caravan consisting of a number of Azami, going our way, kept in our
company for protection. As we travelled we found the country generally
level, with the exception of a few hills, but very arid, as there was
not a tree of any kind, except near some rivers. We passed, however, a
few villages of no importance. Before midday we rested in the open air,
and did the same at night. We procured provisions as we required them
at the villages as we went along. Travelling in this way, we arrived,
on the 28th, at Soltania, which, from its appearance, I should judge to
be a good town. It has a large walled castle, which I wished to see. It
contains a mosque, which has the appearance of being very ancient. It
had three bronze gates higher than those of St. Mark in Venice, worked
with knobs, made in damask work with silver, which are certainly most
beautiful, and must, I should think, have cost a large sum of money. I
saw nothing else worthy of note. This city is situated in a plain, but
in the vicinity of some mountains of moderate height. The cold here in
winter is said to be so severe that the people are obliged to remove to
another place. There is a bazaar for the sale of provisions, and fustians
of a common description. We remained here till the 30th, on the morning
of which day we left, and travelled again over plains and hills, sleeping
every night in the open air. The country forms part of Persia, which
begins at Tauris.
On the 4th of October, 1474, we arrived at a city called Sena, without
walls, but with a bazaar as usual. It is situated in a plain near a
river, and surrounded by trees. Here we slept in a very incommodious
caravanserai.
On the 5th, we left here; and on the 6th, while bivouacking in the open
air, I was attacked by fever. On the morning of the 8th we rode on,
I being greatly fatigued, and arrived in good time at a city called
Como.[157] Here, when we had entered a caravanserai in a sort of inn,
the fever increased and began to trouble me seriously, and the next day
all my people were taken ill, except Pré Stephano, who attended to us
all. Our illness, from what I was told, was of a kind that is accompanied
by delirium, and we said many insane things. Cadi Lascher sent to me to
make excuses for not staying longer, saying that he was obliged to hasten
to his sovereign, but that he would leave me a servant, and comforted
me with the assurance that I was in a country where I should not be
molested. My illness kept me in this place till the 23rd. Como is a small
but handsome town situated in a plain, and surrounded by a mud wall. It
has an abundance of everything, with good bazaars for its manufactures
and fustians.
On the 23rd, as I have said, we left here, and I travelled with much
suffering on account of my illness.
On the 25th, we arrived at another city called Cassan,[158] having walls
and bazaars like those of Como, but it is a finer city.
On the 26th, we left here and entered another small city called
Nethos,[159] situated in a plain, where more wine is made than anywhere
else. Here, on account of my debility and a slight return of fever,
I remained a day. On the 28th I mounted my horse as well as I could,
and after travelling again over plains, arrived on the 30th at a city
called Spaan. Here we found the Shah Ussuncassan, and having ascertained
where Messer Josafa Barbaro, our ambassador, was residing, I dismounted
at his lodgings. As soon as we saw each other, we embraced each other
affectionately, and with great joy. One may imagine the consolation
which this meeting afforded me; but as I was more in want of repose than
anything else, I retired to rest. On the following day I had a conference
with his Excellency, in which I stated what I had to say. The Shah having
heard of my arrival sent his slaves to receive me with presents of
provisions.
On the 4th of November, 1474, we were summoned to the presence of the
Shah by some of his slaves. Having entered the audience chamber in
company with the Magnificent Messer Josafa Barbaro, we found His Majesty
and eight of his barons, who appeared to be men of authority. After the
required salutations, performed according to the Persian custom, I stated
the object of my embassy from the Illustrious Signory, and delivered my
letter of credence. When I had concluded, the Shah replied briefly, and,
as it were, excusing himself for having been obliged to come to these
parts; after which, he made me sit with his barons, and an abundant
supply of refreshments were brought, well prepared, according to their
methods, of which we partook, seated on carpets in the Persian fashion.
When we had eaten we saluted His Majesty and returned to our lodgings.
On the 6th, we were summoned by the Shah, and a great part of the
residence where he was staying, which was in the middle of a field,
through which a river flowed, in a very delightful locality, was shown to
me. One part was formed like a quadrangle and was adorned by a painting,
representing the decapitation of Soltan Busech, and showing how he was
brought by a rope to execution by Curlumameth, who had caused the chamber
to be made. We were served with a luncheon of good confections, after
which we returned to our lodgings. We remained in this city of Spaan
with His Majesty until the 25th of this month, during which time we were
invited by His Majesty to frequent banquets. Spaan appears to be a very
convenient city. It is situated in a plain abounding with all kinds of
provisions. It is said that, as the city refused to surrender, much of
it was destroyed after it had been taken. It is surrounded by a wall
of earth like the others. From Tauris to Spaan is a twenty-four days’
journey, through a country entirely belonging to Persia, consisting of
a very arid plain with salt water in many places. The corn and fruits
which, however, grow in abundance, are produced by means of irrigation.
There are fruits of all kinds, and of better quality than I have seen
or tasted anywhere. To the right and left of Spaan there are mountains,
said to be very fertile, from which are brought the greater portion of
the provisions. All things are dear. Wine costs from three to four ducats
for a quantity equal to our quart. Bread is at a reasonable price. A
camel-load of wood costs a ducat. Meat is dearer than with us. Fowls are
sold seven for a ducat. The prices of other things are in proportion. The
Persians are well behaved and of gentle manners, and by their conduct
appear to like the Christians. While in Persia we did not suffer a single
outrage. The Persian women are dressed in a very becoming manner and
surpass the men, both in their dress and in their riding. Both women and
men are handsome and well-made, and follow the Mahometan religion.