Chapter 11: _Men and Women, Clothes and Customs_

When Knossos fell, Crete ceased to be the pre-eminent power in the Near

East. The island itself was overrun by military or naval adventurers,

and the centre of Mediterranean life shifted over to the mainland of

Greece, whence, indeed, those adventurers came. The interesting thing,

however, was that Cretan culture went with it, and neither for the

last, nor probably for the first, time “the captive led captive her

savage conqueror,” as Horace wrote centuries afterwards. Crete stooped

to conquer Greece, just as Greece in her turn stooped to conquer Rome.

The Cretans as a race were quite distinct from the contemporary

inhabitants of Greece, physical types being sharply divided by the

shores of the mainland. It may be asked: Is it worth while speculating

about the physical characteristics of a people which flourished 4,000

years ago, whose very existence was obscured by the Dark Age that

comes before Greek history, and whose existence was not rediscovered

until the other day? Yet archæology works wonders. It is true that

in this particular field, in which archæology is chiefly dependent

upon portrait-paintings and bones, there is more controversy and less

certitude than in the others; and that craniology, or the study of

skulls, with their much-disputed classification into “brachycephalic”

or broad-headed, “dolichocephalic” or long-headed, and “mesocephalic,”

midway between the two, is a fruitful source of confusion; that

the “cephalic” index--that is, the breadth of the skull above the

ears expressed in a percentage which gives the proportion of this

breadth-measurement to the measurement of the length of the same skull

from the forehead to the occiput--is a poor index of anything at all.

Still, there is ground for assuming that from the later Stone Age

onwards the islands of the Ægean were mainly peopled by members of the

“Mediterranean” race, small of stature, with oval faces, with what

craniologists might call rather “long” heads, with small hands and

feet, a dark complexion, dark eyes and black curly hair.

According to Professor H. L. Myres in his _Dawn of History_, the

north-west quadrant of the Old World resolved itself racially into

three belts, which were determined by geographical conditions. (Pp.

30 _et seq._ Williams & Norgate, 1912.) In the north were the pure

white-skinned “Boreal” men of the Baltic basin; next came the sallow

“Alpine” type, then the red-skinned “Mediterranean” man. The third was

an intruder from the South, not from far enough south for him to be a

negro, but probably from the northern shores of Africa. His intrusion

“formed part of a much larger convergence of animals and plants from

the south and south-east into the colder, moister regions which have

been released since the Ice Age closed.” The limit of the movement

seems to have been fixed by the shores of the mainland, further north

than which the lungs and constitution of the people concerned forbade

them to go.

The establishment of the existence of the Mediterranean race has had,

among other results, that of making it no longer possible, as was

invariably the practice before Crete was excavated, of ascribing all

obscure factors in the beginnings of Greece to a Phœnician origin.

We now know, for instance, that the art of writing came from Crete,

Phœnicia being the medium; and that Phœnicia itself was merely a late

centre of the general Ægean civilization, and got its name merely

because it was the best-known branch of the “red-skinned” race; for

“Phœnikes” literally means “Red-skins,” and in Homer Phœnix himself is

a King of Crete and grandfather of Minos.

The Minoan people, then, formed part of the Mediterranean race. Their

dress was much simpler than that of the classical Greeks. The men wore

a short pair of drawers or a loin-cloth, the upper part of the body

being bare, as in the cupbearer picture, a style emanating, as did

the men themselves, from the warm lands south of the Mediterranean.

Egyptian fresco-paintings reveal an almost exact analogy of type in the

clothing and appearance of the Egyptians. Those who have a keen eye for

the persistence of type may compare some of the forms of loin-cloth, as

depicted on seal stones, with the “brakais,” or baggy breeches, still

worn in Crete. Elders and officials apparently wore flowing cloaks for

their greater dignity. High-topped boots--again suggestive of those

worn to-day--were in general use. Men wore their hair long as did the

women, plaited and coiled up on the top of the head, thereby forming

the only headdress that was used.

Minoan war-equipment was limited. Their only weapons were a long

sword and a dagger, the latter of which is shown by pictures of clay

figurines to have been carried inside the belt at the front. Their only

defensive armour was a big shield of leather and a leather conical

helmet. The shield was framed in a metal band, but had no handle or

central boss; it was big enough to cover the body from head to foot,

and it could be bent so as to protect both sides. It is represented

in certain pictures in a curious 8-shape, pinched-in in the middle.

The origin of this may have been that it was the practice to sling it

over the left shoulder suspended by a strap, and for this purpose the

figure-of-eight shape may have been convenient.

Horses were apparently used both for war and for hunting, although we

have no pictures of them being ridden. The available evidence shows

them only in the shafts of two-wheeled chariots. This accords well with

Professor Sir William Ridgeway’s observation (made far back in the

’eighties of last century) that in Homer the horse was driven only, and

was no bigger than our donkey. There is reason for thinking that the

horses were imported, and imaginative people have recognized evidence

of this in the fact that a seal stone has been found which shows a

horse on board ship. Whether intentionally or merely from crudity

of draughtsmanship, one is left in little doubt as to what mostly

occupied the artist’s mind when he fashioned this stone, for the horse

covers three-quarters of the ship’s length, and towers high above it,

while the crew stand as high as the horse’s knees. On the fascinating

subject of the history of the horse, the reader should consult Sir W.

Ridgeway’s _Origin of the Thoroughbred Horse_ (Cambridge University

Press, 1905).

The women are readily distinguishable from the men in Cretan pictures

by reason of their white skin, suggestive of a more secluded indoor

life. They wore large shady hats, close-fitting, puffed-sleeved

blouses, cut very low in front, and projecting upwards into a

sort of peak at the back of the neck. They wore wide-flounced,

richly-embroidered skirts like crinolines, and had belts like the

men’s. It was on first seeing some of the pictures of them that a

French scholar compared the women of Knossos with those of Paris.

Minoan women enjoyed a far more “advanced” status than did other

primitive women. In the art of their day they are represented as

appearing in public and unveiled; they took part in the bull-fighting

at Knossos, and their apartments in the palace were marked out by their

special luxury. The greatest glory for an Athenian woman of a later

age was to be “as little mentioned as possible among men.” Not so for

the women of Crete. There may be some special significance in the fact

that the Lycians of Asia Minor, who were colonists from Crete, made a

practice of calling children by the mother’s, not the father’s, name

(Herodotus, i. 73). If this was the case also in Minoan Crete itself,

it may afford a possible explanation of the freedom enjoyed by Cretan

women, for the practice of naming children after their mother instead

of after their father is connected with states of society which have

not yet evolved any definite ideas of marriage, and in which, as

Herbert Spencer says, “The connection between mother and child is

always certain, whereas the connection between father and child would

sometimes be only inferable.”

The Minoans · 第 11 / 12 章