CHAPTER XV.

Letters: considering the rapid occurrence of events of moment

now-a-days, and the lightning transmission of intelligence, it was with

joy we got letters on our arrival at Hong Kong, having been for over

half a year, so far as news was concerned, inhumed in a remote country.

The official news was, that we were ordered home by way of California

and South America, at which all were overjoyed; and the commodore

was granted permission to return to the United States _via_ Europe,

at government expense. Many a poor fellow got letters that had been

waiting for him in Hong Kong a long time, and at the same time letters

from others of later date, that told that the writers of the former

ones could never write again.

We found in the harbor the ships of the surveying squadron under

Commodore Ringgold, among which was the since ill-fated Porpoise.

There had been no improvement in the intestine troubles. An American

captain had been murdered by the Chinese; and the dearly-beloved

occupants of the hongs of Canton, feeling insecure in the possession

of their “filthy lucre”—for if the “chop dollar” of China is not

filthy lucre, I know not what it is—the Mississippi proceeded to her

old anchorage at Whampoa, and sent men and howitzers, as before, up to

the city. The captain of the American ship Amity, having been murdered

by two of his foreign crew, the next morning after our arrival through

the intervention of “Judge Lynch,” their bodies were seen suspended

from either yard-arm of their vessel.

The state of affairs in Canton being deemed imminent, the little

jolly-boat English steamer, called the Queen, which the commodore had

hired and left off the hongs, previous to our leaving for Japan in

January, ran down and took up another force to the city. A body of

rebels had captured the wealthy and populous city Fuhshan, about twenty

miles from Canton, and the mandarins were doing nothing to arrest their

progress. One morning, for this purpose, a detachment of a thousand

men under a brigadier, were quietly taking up their ground, when they

were surprised by a party of rebels, and before they could seize their

arms, some hundreds of them and their camp-followers were killed, and

the rest escaped pell-mell into the city. The tents, matchlocks, and

ammunition, were all carried off, and the brigadier was among the

missing.

I had an opportunity during this visit of seeing the largest fleet of

the emperor, which had an immense number of streamers flying: and also

at an early hour of making a visit to the tea-packing establishments

at Honan, whose inmates appeared ready to decamp at short notice.

Vessels going down the Pekiang were crowded with Chinese flying from

the place, and the river steamers were chartered at enormous rates;

so that the total emigration to Macao and Hong Kong was not much

under five thousand, including several men of distinction, such as

the brothers of Heu Chang-kwang, the provincial treasurer, and their

families, and of Puntingqua and his family, to Macao; and Howqua and

Eesing with their families to Hong Kong.

On the 29th of July we were at Hong Kong, and the 11th of August

saw us again at Whampoa, together with that noble steam-frigate the

Susquehanna, that had not long been back from a very interesting trip

to Nanking.

On the 15th of August, when taking our final departure from Whampoa,

we saw a Dutch ship fired upon from a rebel battery; also one of the

mandarin boats, running up powder, but the fleetness of their sailing,

and the bad gunnery of the Chinese, enabled them to go by unharmed.

Having to wait the return of the Macedonian with Captain Abbott, to

whom the command of the three remaining ships was to be transferred,

the commodore fixed September 11th for the day of his departure by the

oriental steamer. In the meantime the Susquehanna, which with the

Mississippi, was to make the long stretch across the Pacific, departed

for Simoda, Japan—on her first and only visit to that place—towing

the Southampton, laden with coal, intended for the use of the two

steamers in their run from Japan of over three thousand miles to

Honolulu. The storeships Supply and Lexington were also despatched

homeward by the way of the Cape of Good Hope. It is scarcely necessary

to give the state of affairs in China at the time of the departure

of these ships. The fighting of the Chinese—if fighting it might

be called—continued, and we had reports one day how the city of

_Sling-Gin_ had been captured by the insurgents, and another day, that

the imperialists still held the city of _Gin-Sling_.

The Chinese government insists upon its officers, saying, when required

to perform anything for it, what the Frenchman told the lady: “Madam,

if _possible_, it is done already; if _impossible_, it shall be

done”—though placing no means at their disposal for accomplishing the

desired result.

The following being so very Chinese, I insert it. _T’sing-ling_ nor

_Tae-yung_ could not prevent the capture of _Woo-chang_. On reading

the report of its downfall, the emperor said: “It is impossible

to repress my grief and indignation. That Tae-yung, though charged

with two provinces, seems not to have had a single plan for their

defence. Formerly we deprived him of official rank, with the hope

that he would exert himself and make amends for previous errors; but

lo! he follows his old habits, and has thus brought disaster on a

large portion of the empire; this is most detestable and abominable.

Let Tae-yung be instantly deprived of office, and handed over to the

direction of Yang-pae. We also order Yang-pae to hasten to his new

appointment, and place himself at the head of all the troops in those

provinces, in order immediately to exterminate these rebels, and

recover the provincial capital out of their hands; afterward let him

sweep away this pestilence, in order to fulfil the object for which we

have intrusted him with this great command. Let him also endeavor to

ascertain what has become of all the officers both civil and military

who were formerly stationed at Woo-chang, and report. Respect this.”

But the Macedonian having gotten back from Manilla, the time had

arrived when Opperbevelhebber Perry was to leave in the mail-steamer.

This interesting event took place on the 11th of September, one day

after the date of the great naval-battle of his Hyperion brother on

Lake Erie, and one before the battle of North Point, and three before

the allied armies landed in the Crimea. Previous to this important

epoch, the _American_ (_!_) merchants at Canton addressed him an

epistle as characteristic as the speech of the

“—— men of Coventry,

Who came down to see

Her gracious majesty!”

This _bijou_ of toadyism had this for a superscription:—

His Excellency Commodore MATTHEW C. PERRY,

_Commander-in-Chief of the Naval Forces U. S., in the East India,

China, and Japan Seas, and late Envoy to Japan, &c., &c., &c._

They first acknowledged the promptitude with which he extended

protection to their interests, so much needed, during his command in

those seas.

“Protection.” Commodore Perry arrived in the waters in the vicinity of

Canton, on the 7th of April, 1853, and on the 27th of the same month

he ran up to Shanghae, and after a short stay there, he bundled off

with all the ships he could to the island of Loo-Choo, where he lay

inert from the 26th of May to the 2d day of July; and did not return to

China until August. The gentlemen who much do congregate on the rialto

of Canton, address “His Excellency,” concerning the magnitude of the

interests, which requires protection, and the storeship Supply, like

the other ships, not being required until the next visit to Japan, she

is sent up to lay off the hongs. This tub to the mercantile whale,

satisfied for a time, but when the period arrived for the return to

Japan, luckily for “His Excellency,” the merchants suggested the

charter of a miserable little English steamer, and he not regarding

it his duty to inform the opium gentry, that the carronades of the

Supply would afford more protection than the penny-whistle battery of

the jolly-boat steamer, gladly withdrew the needed storeship, and

chartered the Queen. The puny craft when started in Hong Kong harbor,

was amusing. A Chinaman on one wheel-house with a bamboo-pole, prized

the wheel over the “centre,” and four or five men being required at her

“starting-bar,” when they got her going they did not like to stop her,

and she spun about the harbor like a chicken, _minus_ his head. The

arms of her wheels being wood, before getting over to Macao she broke

off several. Her pop-guns, only two of which were aside, had perhaps

never been “scaled,”

“And like gun well aimed, at duck or plover,

Bear wide the mark and kick the owner over.”

As Hon. Humphrey Marshall said, in speaking of the protection afforded

by the American opperbevelhebber:—

“What are the means? A British steamer of one hundred and fifty tons,

manned by twenty sailors and ten Chinese, and carrying an armament of

four guns of four-pound calibre each. In the event of a disturbance,

the Queen may suffice to transport the women and children of American

citizens from the city, provided they reach her decks without

molestation; but to defend the lives or property of American citizens

here in the presence of an invading mob or a band of robbers, the

provision made is not equal to any exigency whatever.”

After some vernacular of the shop—he went to Japan with their “best

wishes _freighted_,”—they indulge in wonderful erudition about

Columbus, De Gama, Cook, La Perouse, and Magellan, and they wind up

with the pleasant tangible, of requesting his acceptance of a durable

memorial of his visit to China, as a testimony of the estimation in

which they held his public services and private character.

U. S. FLAG-SHIP MISSISSIPPI,

_Hong Kong_, September 7, 1854.

GENTLEMEN: It is impossible for me to find words sufficiently

expressive of my profound thanks for the very flattering praise which

you, in your prodigal kindness and generosity, have bestowed upon me

in your communication of the 4th instant.

In the execution of my duties as commander of the East India squadron,

and with special reference to the mission to Japan, I am unconscious

of having done more than might have been expected of me as a zealous

and loyal officer.

The testimonial of which you speak will be received with the highest

gratification, and my children will be enjoined to treasure it as

a memorial of the many favors their father had received from his

fellow-countrymen in China.

In separating myself from those with whom I have been so long and so

agreeably associated, I can not but hope that we shall all meet again

in our own happy country; and with this pleasant anticipation, I

subscribe myself, with every feeling of sincere friendship and respect,

Your obliged and most obedient servant,

M. C. PERRY.

The “durable memorial” was understood to be a service of silver, since

made in the United States, and perhaps none the less brilliant because

opium syce may have paid for it; and, as a change must have come over

the commodore’s dream, for on the 9th of October, 1853, he writes

to the secretary of the navy: “The most profitable branch of trade

carried on by many of the Americans, English, and other foreigners, is

of a clandestine character, in violation of the laws of China and the

stipulations of the Cushing treaty; and it is difficult for a naval

commander, in extending the protection of his ship, to distinguish

between the property engaged in the legal or illegal trade.” And in

concluding the same despatch, he says: “In my business with Japan,

where as yet there are no American merchants, or diplomatic agents, I

have the assurance of not being interfered with, and shall be able to

act with energy and promptitude, and without embarrassment, and whether

successful or otherwise, the responsibility will all rest upon myself.”

Then comes an epistle from four little Malwa and Patna “tuft-hunters”

of Hong Kong, who also like to make Judy Fitzsimmons of themselves.

After giving “His Excellency” much that is fulsome and adulatory, they

speak of his having opened the “_commerce_” of Japan, “not only to us,

but to the world.” What nonsense.

We have no _commercial_ treaty with Japan, but only one “of peace and

amity,” and strange that the newspapers will persist in saying so.

Mischief may come of it in inducing some Yankee trader to go there with

an assorted cargo, who will be very apt to have his labor for his pains.

But for the seriousness of speech that marked the presentation to “His

Excellency,” by the governor of Rhode Island, on behalf of its general

assembly, of a splendid salver, having on it “in testimony of their

appreciation of his services to his country in negotiating a treaty

of amity _and commerce_ with Japan,” together with the commodore’s

teaching the heathen _the observance of the Sabbath_, that worthy

functionary would be deemed waggish.

On the morning of the 11th of September, being the ninth day, of the

ninth moon, of the fourth year of the reign of Hien-fung, Commodore

Matthew Calbraith Perry left in the English mail-steamer Ganges for

home; the Mississippi and the Macedonian firing the parting salute, and

the men in the rigging giving three cheers.

We were to have taken our final leave of the grand, celestial, central,

middle, flowery kingdom, on the same day, but it stormed, and we did

not leave until the next morning, and few, if any, saw the naked hills

of Hong Kong fade in the distance with regret. A few hours before us,

the poor Porpoise got under way and left the port—that port to which

her sail

“Should never stretch again.”

This was the last that was seen of her, and she no doubt foundered in

the typhoon of the 7th of October, encountered by the Mississippi,

which noble old ship struggled and maintained her existence for mortal

hours under the force of a hurricane, and received the terrific blows

of the infuriated sea more bravely than did the black knight under the

pounding of the stalwart friar—if “aught inanimate” can have bravery,

all honor to thee, old ship! and with more fervency than blesses the

bridge that carries us over, honor to thee, old ship, again!

We stood up the Formosa channel, and in nine days were entering

again the harbor of Simoda. We found here the Susquehanna and the

Southampton. The former vessel left for the Sandwich Islands on

the 24th of September. The stormy season having commenced in that

latitude, it was too rough for us to commence coaling for several

days, from the storeship. We ascertained that the Susquehanna had

buried Surgeon Hamilton at Simoda, making the third interment in the

contracted American burial-place. The shafts over the tombs were well

proportioned, the letters of the inscriptions, with the imitative

art of the Mongolian race, cut with exactness, and gilded, and the

cap-stones, an original ornament, seeming to blend an urn and an acorn.

Captain Lee, of the Mississippi, with a suite of officers, made an

official call on the lieutenant-governor of the now imperial city

of Simoda, and was received with marked courtesy, and entertained

in the Japanese style. The little strips resembling fried eel were

as attractive as fried snake, but the crystallized grapes, with

indifferent sugar, were rather palatable. There was handed around

a small berry, not unpleasant to the taste, resembling the haw

cultivated. The old Rip Van Winkle—_Yemanese Koso_—plied his guests

with the little thimbles of imperial saki, that he might unite with

them.

Captain Lee returned these civilities with a collation on board of his

ship, and treated the Japanese to the music of the Mississippi’s fine

band, of which they are unaffectedly fond. He had a correspondence with

the authorities relative to the absence of the spar-buoys which had

been placed to mark dangerous rocks in the harbor. They replied that

they had been washed away by the severe gales preceding our arrival,

but that they would replace them, which they did.

During this visit the Japanese displayed much willingness to trade with

us—that is, if trading means to sell everything you can for Spanish

dollars and takes nothing else in return. There was one instance only

to the contrary. An intelligent engineer of the ship had a revolver;

a Japanese officer wished it very much. He was told that he could

have it for so many _its-evoos_, which the penalty for permitting to

pass out of the country was very great. He offered a large amount in

silver dollars. No; at last his cupidity for the pistol overcame his

fear for the consequences, and he paid for it in the _its-evoos_, and

disappeared over the side. These were about the only Japanese coins

that were procured during our stay in the country. Were you to offer

one of the barbers of the country, “whose name is legion,” a piece of

silver for one of their cash—the twelfth of a cent—he would be glad

to have it, but the inexorable law is ever before his eyes.

At Simoda we found a junk bound to Yedo with a large mortar aboard,

purchased from the Dutch; also the model of an English boat.

We ascertained, that Kyama Yezimon, under the permission of the

emperor, had built a three-masted ship on the model of the Southampton,

they alleging, that she was our fastest sailing ship, or made the

shortest trips. Her trial-trip had given them much satisfaction, up the

bay from Uraga. They painted her red, with black stripes, and called

her the _Ho-o-maro_, meaning “sea-ship.”

Captain Lee distributed among the imperial officers of the place, and

suite, a number of cotton-cloths of various kinds from New England.

They took them, because it was the part of politeness to take them,

rather than because they had any use for them. The upper class would

not use them, the scanty wardrobe of the poorer class does not need

them, unless they could be educated to breeches, nor could they

purchase them. There are times when they can not get enough to eat;

indeed it is said, that there was a famine in the land at the time of

the visit of the Morrison, in 1836. The fact is the Japanese are a

people of few wants, and no luxuries, and the great trade prophesied

with that country, should we ever get a commercial treaty, is a mere

myth and exists in the brain of visionaries alone. I deliberately

believe, that any clipper-ship, that would go there with the hopes of

a profitable venture, would rot at her anchors, before she disposed of

her cargo, or got anything profitable in return.

The Mississippi took her final departure from Japan on the 1st of

October, towing the Southampton as far as Volcanic Oho Sima, where the

ships parted company. _Foogee_ was hid.

* * * * *

In February last, Commander H. A. Adams, visited Simoda in the Powhatan

and exchanged the ratification of our treaty with the Japanese, but not

without some delay and difficulty. The Japanese affected to be much

surprised at his early return, and contended, that the treaty said,

that the exchange of ratifications was to be _in_ eighteen months.

Captain Adams contended, that our copy said _within_ eighteen months,

and that we had a right to send it back as soon as we liked. After

some delay in getting the originals from Yedo and examining them, this

matter was settled.

When they were asked for the signature of the emperor to accompany

that of the president, they said that was impossible: that he never

put his name to any document whatever. The captain then resorted to a

little bullying—the thing which had been so successfully practised

upon them by the _opperbevelhebber_—and told them, he would not like

to carry back such an answer to his country—that if we could have

imagined such a thing, our secretary of state only would have signed

the ratification, and not the president. They came down and gave the

signature of the emperor—that is a lot of snakes’ tails, flies’ legs,

and triangles, which for all we know, were but there by Tatsnoski, or

any other functionary.

The appearance of Simoda after the frightful earthquake there in

December, was sad in the extreme. The town was piled in ruins, and

junks had been carried a distance of two miles into neighboring fields.

The Russian admiral Pontiatine was at Simoda, during the terrible

convulsion, and seeing nothing desirable about the port, had been

insisting upon Oassacca, the seaport of the city of Meaco, as one of

the places to be granted his country, but the wrecking of his ship, the

Diana, by the earthquake, left him in no condition to insist upon his

point with force, so he was compelled to consent to Simoda.

The implicit obedience to their laws, under whatever circumstances, by

the Japanese, was shown at the wrecking and sinking of a junk, that

drifted afoul of the Diana and was stove. Two of her crew only clung to

the Diana, the rest stolidly sunk with the junk. Those saved were asked

the cause of this strange conduct on the part of their late comrades.

They said it was, that their laws forbid them going on board of a

foreign vessel; nor did they know what would be done with themselves

for it.

If it be the best government, which governs least, that is not the

government of Japan; like the law of gravitation it is always in

action: its Briarian arms are everywhere, and its subjects are a

community of Arguses. When storm is on the deep and its mariners are

clinging to their long tillers and shuddering at the yawning sea, each

lightning flash of heaven shows them an etiolating hand, that will

crush them, if they dare leave their craft, until half engulfed.

The English and French squadrons visited Nangasaki, and negotiated

their treaty there; though their freedom of movement was greatly

restricted. Their masters were only allowed to land on a small barren

island to rate their chronometers; during the conferences some of their

officers were taken to task by the Japanese for spitting on their

matting.

* * * * *

The cruise of the United States steam-frigate Mississippi under the

command of a fine officer and estimable gentleman—Sydney Smith Lee,

during the years 1852, ’53, ’54, and ’55, was one full of interest.

She is the third war-steamer, that ever circumnavigated the globe, and

during her cruise sailed a distance more than twice its circumference.

She visited places, too, unusual.

The writer wishes that the time had been afforded him to give

an outline of the terrible typhoon, which she encountered in

the North Pacific ocean on the 7th of October, 1854—how we saw

_two_ Mondays, or two 16ths of October, come together in the

same week—Honolulu—California—Taboga—stay at Valparaiso—the

brilliant dash of the old ship, with a chasing gale, into the straits

of Magellan: of her subsequent run through them “amid snow and

glacier”—the firing of the “22d of February” salute, which was heard

by the Patagonian—Rio Janeiro, &c., but this would make our narrative

of undue length.

APPENDIX.

SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR NAPA, ISLAND GREAT LOO-CHOO.

BY LIEUTENANT S. BENT, U. S. NAVY.

This is the principal seaport of the island, and perhaps the only one

possessing the privileges of a port of entry.

Its inner, or Junk harbor, has a depth of water of from two to three

fathoms, and though small, is sufficiently large to accommodate with

ease, the fifteen or twenty moderate-sized junks which are usually

found moored in it. These are mostly Japanese, with a few Chinese and

some small coasting craft, which seem to carry on a sluggish trade with

the neighboring islands.

The outer harbor is protected to the eastward and southward by the main

land, while in other directions it is surrounded by merely a chain of

coral reefs, which answer as a tolerable breakwater against a swell

from the northward or westward, but affords of course, no shelter from

the wind. The holding ground is so good, however, that a well-found

ship could ride out here almost any gale in safety.

The clearest approach to Napa from the westward, is by passing to

the northward of the Amakarima islands and sighting Agenhu island,

whence steer a S. E. course for the harbor, passing on either side of

Reef islands, being careful, however, not to approach them too near

on the western and southern sides, as the reefs below water in these

directions, are said to be more extensive than is shown by the charts.

After clearing Reef islands, bring Wood Hill to bear S. S. E., when

stand down for it, until getting upon the line of bearing for _South

channel_. This will carry you well clear of Blossom reef, yet not so

far off but that the White Tomb and clump of trees or bushes to the

southward of Tumai Head can be easily distinguished. An E. N. E. ½  E.,

or E. N. E. course will now take you in clear of all dangers, and give

a good anchorage on or near the seven-fathom bank, about half a mile to

the northward and westward of False Capstan Head. This channel being

perfectly straight, is more desirable for a stranger entering the

harbor, than _Oar channel_, which, though wider, has the disadvantage

of its being necessary for a vessel to alter her course some four or

five points, just when she is in the midst of reefs, which are nearly

all below the surface of the water.

TO ENTER BY OAR CHANNEL.

Bring the centre of the island in Junk harbor (known by the deep

verdure of its vegetation), to fill the gap between the forts at the

entrance of Junk harbor and steer a S. E. ½  E. course, until Capstan

Head bears east, when haul up to E. N. E. and anchor as before directed.

THE NORTH CHANNEL

Is very much contracted by a range of detached rocks making out from

the reef on the west side, and should not under ordinary circumstances

be attempted by a stranger; as at high water the reefs are almost

entirely covered, and it is difficult to judge of your exact position,

unless familiar with the various localities and landmarks. To enter by

this (North) channel, bring a remarkable notch in the southern range

of hills, in line with a small hillock just to the eastward of False

Capstan Head and stand in on this range S. by E. ½  E. until Tumai Head

bears E. ½  N., when open a little to the southward, so as to give the

reef to the eastward a berth, and select your anchorage.

There is a black spar-buoy anchored on Blossom reef _half way between

its eastern and western extremities_, a red spar-buoy on the point

of reef to the W. N. W’d of Abbey point, and a white spar-buoy on

the southeast extremity of Oar reef. Flags of corresponding colors

are attached to all these buoys, and they afford good guides for the

South and Oar channels. There are two large stakes on the reefs to the

eastward and westward of North channel, planted there by the natives,

this being the channel mostly used by junks trading to the northward.

An abundance of water can always be obtained at the fountains in Junk

river, where there is excellent landing for boats. There is a good

spring near the tombs in Tumai bluff, but unless the water is perfectly

smooth the landing is impracticable, and under any circumstances it is

inconvenient from the want of sufficient depth, except at high tide.

It is directed by the commander-in-chief that the vessels of the

squadron under his command, shall heave to, on approaching Napa, and

make signal for a pilot, when an officer familiar with the localities

and landmarks will be sent off from the vessel in port to pilot her in,

or point to her commander the position of the dangers to be avoided.

Should there, however, be no vessel in port, then boats are to be sent

ahead, and anchored upon the extremities of the reefs, between which

the vessel intends to pass.

MACAO, October 1, 1853.

* * * * *

NOTE.—The spar-buoys, above described, were securely moored at the

time they were placed in their respective positions, by order of

Commodore Perry, but may be displaced, or entirely removed by the heave

of the sea, or by the natives, and should therefore not be entirely

relied upon.

OONTING, OR PORT MELLVILLE, ISLAND GREAT LOO-CHOO.

BY LIEUTENANT S. BENT, U. S. NAVY.

Oonting harbor is on the N. W. side of Loo-Choo, and distant about

thirty-five miles from Napa.

Sugar Loaf island, an excellent landmark, lies about twelve miles to

the W. N. W’d of the entrance. The island is low and flat, with the

exception of a sharp conical peak near its eastern extremity, which

rises to a height of several hundred feet.

Passing to the northward of Sugar Loaf island, an E. S. easterly course

will bring you to the mouth of the harbor, and to the northward and

westward of Kooi island. It is advisable to heave to here, or anchor

in twenty or twenty-five fathoms water, until boats or buoys can be

placed along the edges of the reefs bordering the channel, for without

some such guides, it is difficult for a vessel of large draft to find

her way in between the reefs, which contract, in places, to within a

cable’s length of each other, and are at all times covered with water.

The ranges and courses for the channel, are first: Hele rock in

range with double-topped mountain bearing south thirty-seven degrees

east. Steer this course, keeping the range on until Chimney rock

bears S. ½  E.; then for Chimney rock, until Point Conde bears south

forty-nine degrees east; then for Point Conde, until entering the

basin of Oonting, when anchor; giving your ship room to swing clear

of the reef making out to the northward of Point Conde, and you will

be as snug as if lying in dock; with good holding ground, completely

land-locked, and sheltered almost entirely from every wind.

Good water is to be had at the village of Oonting.

SAILING DIRECTIONS AND OBSERVATIONS, UPON LLOYD HARBOR, BONIN ISLANDS.

FROM REPORTS OF ACTING MASTERS MADIGAN AND BENNETT, OF THE U. S. SHIPS

SARATOGA AND SUSQUEHANNA.

The entrance to the harbor of Port Lloyd, on the western side of

Peel island, one of the Bonin group, is well defined; so that it can

scarcely be mistaken.

A ship bound in, would do well to place a boat on the shoal, that

makes off south from the eastern point of Square Rock, as it is called

on Beechy’s harbor chart. This shoal can be easily seen from aloft,

however, even when there is no swell on. It extends full two cables

length from Square Rock to the southward, and is steep. The centre

of the shoal is awash with a smooth sea. The tide rises about three

feet, and there is a coral rock about one cable’s length north from

the northern point of Southern Head, on which I found _eight feet

water_. But a ship entering the harbor would not be likely to approach

Southern Head so near as to be upon it. This island, as well as those

surrounding it, is chiefly visited by whale-ships, and its products,

therefore, are such as to suit their wants.

Potatoes, yams, and other vegetables, fruits of various kinds, together

with wild hogs and goats can be procured from the few whites and

Sandwich-islanders—thirty five in all—settled there. Wood is good

and plentiful, and water can be had, though in limited quantities, and

slightly tainted by the coral rocks from which it springs.

The anchorage is fair, though open to the south and west. The

reconnoissance made by order of the commander-in-chief, proved the

accuracy of Captain Beechy’s chart.

Mr. Bennet, acting master of the Susquehanna, says in his report:

“Assuming the position of Napa in Great Loo-Choo island, as established

by Beechy, to be correct, I find by the mean of my chronometers, that

he has placed Ten-Fathom Hole, in Port Lloyd, five miles too far to the

westward, and consequently the whole group is placed that much to the

westward of its true position.”

SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR THE HARBOR OF SIMODA.

BY LIEUTENANT WM. L. MAURY, U. S. NAVY.

U. S. STEAM-FRIGATE MISSISSIPPI,

_Honolulu_, October 26, 1854.

Vessels bound to the harbor of Simoda, to the southward and westward,

should make Cape Idzu, from which Rock island bears E. S. E. ¼  E.,

distant about five miles; and if the weather is at all clear, the chain

of islands at the entrance of the gulf of Yedo will at the same time be

plainly visible.

Between Rock island and the main land, there are a number of rocks

awash and above water, among which the Japanese junks freely pass, but

a ship should not attempt a passage inside of Rock island, unless in

case of urgent necessity, particularly as the northeasterly current,

which sweeps along this coast, seems to be, at this point, capricious,

both in direction and velocity.

Giving Rock island a berth of a mile, the harbor of Simoda will be in

full view, bearing N. ¼  W., distant five miles.

Vandalia Bluff, on the east side of the entrance, may be recognised

by a grove of pine-trees on the summit of the bluff, and the village

of Susaki, which lies about one third of the way between it and Cape

Diamond. Cape Diamond is a sharp point making out to the eastward of

the entrance of the harbor.

Standing in from Rock island, you will probably pass through a number

of tide rips, but not get soundings with the hand lead, until near

the entrance of the harbor, when you will be in from fourteen to

twenty-seven fathoms.

Should the wind be from the northward and fresh, a vessel should anchor

at the mouth of the harbor until it lulls or shifts, or until she can

conveniently warp in, as it is usually flawy and always baffling.

Approaching from the northward and eastward, a vessel can pass on

either side of Oho Sima, from the centre, of which Cape Diamond bears

W. S. W. ¾   W., distant about twenty miles.

Between Oho Sima and Simoda no dangers are known to exist; but the

northeasterly current must be borne constantly in mind—particularly

at night and in thick weather. Its general strength is from two to

three miles per hour; but as this, as well as its direction, is much

influenced by the local wind, headlands, islands, &c., neither can be

relied upon.

Should Oho Sima be obscured by thick weather, before reaching Cape

Diamond, endeavor to sight Rock island, for there are no very

conspicuous objects on the main land, by which a stranger can recognise

the harbor at a distance, and the shore appears as one unbroken line.

To the westward of the harbor there are several sand beaches, and three

or four sand banks, These can be plainly discerned when within six or

eight miles, and are good landmarks.

A vessel from the southward and eastward should pass to the westward

of the island of Kozu Sima,[4] which may be known by a remarkable

snow-white cliff on its western side. There is also a white patch on

its summit, to the northward of the cliff. From this island the harbor

bears N. by W. ½  W., distant about twenty-eight miles.

[4] This is the most southwestern island of the chain of islands lying

off the Gulf of Yedo.

There are but two hidden dangers in the harbor; the first is the

Southampton rock, which lies in mid-channel, bearing N. ½  W. from

Vandalia bluff, about three fourths of the way between it and Centre

island. This rock is about twenty-five feet in diameter, and has two

fathoms water upon it. It is marked by a white spar-buoy.

The second is the Supply rock. Bearing S. by W., a short distance from

Buisako islet, and is a sharp rock, with eleven feet water upon it. Its

position is designated by a red spar-buoy.

Both of these buoys are securely moored, and the authorities of Simoda

have promised to replace them, should they by any cause be removed.

Centre island, which receives its name from being the point from which

the treaty limits are measured, is high, conical, and covered with

trees. A cave passes entirely through it.

In the outer roads, or mouth of the harbor, a disagreeable swell is

sometimes experienced; but inside of the Southampton rock and Centre

island, vessels are well sheltered, and the water comparatively smooth.

Moor with an open hawse to the southward and westward.

There are good landings for boats in Simoda creek, and at the village

of Kakizaki.

A harbor-master and three pilots have been appointed; wood, water,

fish, fowls, and eggs, also sweet potatoes and other vegetables may

be procured from the authorities. It is necessary to supply them with

casks to bring the water off.

Latitude Centre island 34° 39′ 49″ N.

Longitude ” ” 138° 57′ 50″ E.

Variation 52′ westerly.

High Water, F. and C 5 hours.

Extreme rise of tide 5 ft. 7 in.

Mean ” ” 3 ft.

To make the foregoing directions more easily comprehended, they

have been rendered as concise as possible, but to furnish further

information to navigators bound to, or passing the port, the following

additional remarks are appended:—

The harbor of Simoda is near the southeastern extremity of the

peninsula of Idzu, which terminates at the cape of that name. To the

northward of the harbor, a high ridge intersects the peninsula, and

south of this, all the way to the cape, it is broken by innumerable

peaks of less elevation.

The harbor bears S. W. by W. from Cape Sagami, at the entrance of Yedo

bay, distant about 45 miles.

Rock island is about 120 feet high, and a third of a mile in length,

with precipitous shores and uneven outlines. It has a thick matting of

grass, weeds, moss, &c., on the top.

From the summit of this island overfalls were seen, bearing N. ½ W.,

distant a mile, or mile and a half. These may have been caused by a

rock or reef. An attempt was made to find it, but the strong current

and fresh wind prevented a satisfactory examination. The Japanese

fishermen, however, deny the existence of any such danger.

N. by W. from Rock island, distant 2 miles, are the Ukona rocks. These

are two rocks, though they generally appear as one. The largest is

about 70 feet high. Between these and Rock island, the current was

found setting east-northeasterly, fully four miles an hour.

Centre island bears from Rock island N. ½  E., distant 5½ miles, and

from Ukona rocks N. by E. ½  E., distant 3½ miles.

Buisako islet lies N. N. E. from Centre island. It is about 40 feet

high, and covered with trees and shrubs.

Should the buoy on Southampton rock be removed, the east end of Centre

island on with the west end of Buisako, will clear the rock to the

westward.

Off the village of Susaki, and distant one third of a mile from the

shore, is a ledge of rocks, upon which the surf is always breaking;

give them a berth of two cables in passing.

Approaching from the eastward, the harbor will not open until you get

well inside of Cape Diamond.

To the northward of Cape Diamond is the bay of Sirahama, which is quite

deep, and as it has also several sand-beaches, it may be mistaken for

Simoda; but as you approach this bay, Cape Diamond will shut in the

Ukona rocks, and Rock island to the southward; while in the Simoda

roads they are visible from all points.

Cape Idzu, latitude 34° 36′ 03″ N.

” ” longitude 138° 52′ 32″ E.

Rock Island, latitude 34° 34′ 20″ N.

” ” longitude 138° 57′ 10″ E.

S. W. ½  W. from Kozu-Sima, distant about 20 miles, and south, a little

westerly, from Cape Idzu, distant about 40 miles, there are two patches

of dangerous rocks, 15 or 20 feet high, which have been named Redfield

rocks. They are in—Latitude 33° 56′ 13″ N., Longitude 138° 48′ 31″

E.; and Latitude 33° 57′ 31″ N., Longitude 138° 49′ 13″ E.

These positions may not be strictly correct, but it is believed they

are not much out of the way.

Several errors in the first edition of these directions, published in

July last, have been corrected in the above.—W. L. M.

SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR YEDO.

BY LIEUT. WM. L. MAURY, U. S. N.

Vessels from the southward, bound to this bay, should pass up to the

westward of the chain of islands lying off the gulf of Yedo, and are

cautioned against mistaking the deep bight of Kawatsu bay for the

entrance of Uraga channel, for on the northeast side of this bay there

is a ledge of rocks several miles from the shore, bearing from Cape

Sagami about W. N. W., distant ten miles, upon which one of the vessels

of our squadron grounded. A stranger without a correct chart would

naturally make this mistake, as the opening of the channel is not seen

at a distance from this quarter, the shore appearing as an unbroken

line.

The entrance to the channel bears from the centre of Oho-Sima N. E. by

N., distant about twenty miles. Stand in upon this line, and the Saddle

hill to the northward of Cape Sagami will be readily recognised, as

well as the round black knob on the eastern side of the channel. On

approaching Uraga, the Plymouth rocks will be plainly seen; give these

a berth of half a mile to clear the Ingersoll Patch, a sunken rock with

but one fathom on it, and which is the only known danger in the channel.

Between Plymouth rocks and Cape Kami-Saki, the ground is clear and the

anchorage good, if care be taken to get pretty well in, so as to avoid

the strong tides which sweep round the latter with great rapidity. A

spit makes out a short distance to the southward of Kami-Saki; but to

the northward of the cape, the shore is bold, and the water very deep.

On rounding Cape Kami-Saki, if bound for the city of Yedo, steer N. W.

by N., until Perry island bears S. by W. ¾  W., so as to clear Saratoga

spit, which extends well out from the eastern shore; then haul up,

keeping Perry island upon this bearing until the beacon on the low

point to the southward of Yedo bears W. N. W. This clears the shoal off

the point, and here there is good anchorage in about ten fathoms water,

in full view of the city of Yedo.

At this point our survey terminated; the boats, however, found a clear

channel, with plenty of water for the largest vessels, several miles

farther to the northward, and within a few miles of the city.

If bound to the American anchorage, from Cape Kami-Saki, steer N. W.,

and anchor in eight or ten fathoms water, with Perry island bearing

S. S. E., and Webster island S. W. by S.

To the southward of Webster island there is also good anchorage in six

and seven fathoms. Near this anchorage, there are two snug coves, very

accessible, in which vessels may conveniently repair and refit.

Susquehanna bay, three miles W. N. W. from Cape Kami-Saki, is well

sheltered, but it contains a number of reefs and rocks, and is

therefore not recommended as an anchorage.

Mississippi bay is four miles north of the American anchorage; it

is well sheltered from the prevailing winds. Upon anchoring it is

necessary to give the shore a wide berth, to avoid a shoal which

extends out from half to three quarters of a mile. The conspicuous

headland, or long yellow bluff, on the north side of this bay, is

called Treaty point; a shoal surrounds the point from two thirds of a

mile to a mile distant.

Between the American anchorage and Treaty point, the soundings are

irregular, shoaling suddenly from twelve to five fathoms on a bank of

hard sand.

To the northward of Treaty point, and N. N. W. from Cape Kami-Saki,

distant fourteen miles, is Yokuhama bay. To reach this anchorage, bring

the wooded bluff which terminates the high land on the north side of

the bay to bear N. by W. ½  W., and steer for it until Treaty point

bears S. W. by S.—(this clears the spit off the point); then haul up

about N. W. by N. for the bluff over the town of Kanagawa, and anchor

in five and a half or six fathoms, with the Haycock just open to the

eastward of Mandarin bluff. Mandarin is the steep bluff a mile to the

northward of Treaty point.

A flat extends out from the northern shore of this bay, between

Kanagawa and Beacon point from one to two miles; off Mandarin bluff

there is also a shoal extending a mile to the northward.

The bay of Yedo is about twelve miles wide, and thirty deep, with

excellent holding-ground, and capable of sheltering the fleets of the

world.

Our survey embraced the western shore only, from Cape Kami-Saki to

Beacon point. We had no opportunity of examining the eastern side.

The soundings from Treaty point across in an E. S. E. direction are

regular, and three fathoms were found about a mile and a half from the

opposite shore.

Of Uraga channel, a reconnoissance was made of the western shore only.

During our stay in the bay, from the 17th February to the 18th April,

the weather was generally fine, being occasionally interrupted by

strong winds and heavy rain. The gales came up suddenly from the

southward and westward with a low barometer, and continued for a short

time, when the wind hauled round to the northward and westward, and

moderated. We had no easterly blows; in fact, the wind was rarely from

this quarter, except when hauling round from the northward (as it

invariably did) by east to the southward and westward.

The tide is quite strong out in the bay; and off the tail of Saratoga

spit, Perry island, and Cape Kami-Saki, its velocity is much increased.

But at the anchorage in the bay of Yokuhama it was scarcely felt. At

Yokuhama the Japanese, authorities supplied us with wood and water, and

a few vegetables, fowls, eggs, oysters, and clams.

Latitude, Cape Sagami 35° 06′ 30″

Longitude, ” 139° 40′

Latitude, Webster Island 35° 18′ 30″

Longitude, ” ” 139° 40′ 34″

Latitude of Treaty building, north end of

Yokuhama 35° 26′ 44″

Longitude, ” ” 139° 40′ 23″

Variation 25′ westerly.

High Water, F. and C 6 hours.

Rise and fall at Yokuhama 6 feet.

SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR THE PORT OF HAKODADI.

BY LIEUTENANT WM. L. MAURY, U. S. N.

UNITED STATES STEAM-FRIGATE MISSISSIPPI,

AT SEA, _July 20, 1854_.

This splendid and beautiful bay, which for accessibility and safety is

one of the finest in the world, lies on the north side of the straits

of Sangar, which separate the Japanese islands of Nippon and Yeso, and

about midway between Cape SirijaSaki[5] (the N. E. point of Nippon),

and the city of Matsmai. It bears from the cape N. W. ½  W., distant

about 45 miles, and is about 4 miles wide at the entrance, and 5 miles

deep.

[5] Saki, in the Japanese language, means Cape, consequently it should

more properly be called Cape Sirija; but to prevent mistakes it has

been thought advisable to adopt the Japanese names.

The harbor is the southeastern arm of the bay, and is completely

sheltered, with regular soundings and excellent holding ground. It is

formed by a bold-peaked promontory, standing well out from the high

land of the main, with which it is connected by a low sandy isthmus,

and which, appearing at a distance as an island, may be easily

recognised.

The town is situated on the northeast slope of the promontory, facing

the harbor, and contains about 6,000 inhabitants.

Approaching from the eastward, after passing Cape Suwu Kubo, named on

our chart Cape Blunt, which is a conspicuous headland 12 miles E. by S.

from the town, the junks at anchor in the harbor will be visible over

the low isthmus.

FOR ENTERING THE HARBOR.

Rounding the promontory of Hakodadi, and giving it a berth of a mile,

to avoid the calms under the high land, steer for the sharp peak of

Komaga daki, bearing about N., until the east peak of the Saddle,

bearing about N. E. by N., opens to the westward of the round knob on

the side of the mountain, then haul up to the northward and eastward,

keeping them open until the centre of the sandhills on the isthmus

bears S. E. by E. ¾  E.; these may be recognised by the dark knolls

upon them. This will clear a spit which makes out from the northwestern

point of the town in a north-northwesterly direction two thirds of

a mile; then bring the sandhills a point on the port bow, and stand

in until the northwestern point of the town bears S. W. ½  W., when

you will have the best berth, with 5½ or 6 fathoms water. If it is

desirable to get nearer in, haul up a little to the eastward of S., for

the low rocky peak which will be just visible over the sloping ridge to

the southward and eastward of the town. A vessel of moderate draught

may approach within a quarter of a mile of Tsuki point, where there

is a building-yard for junks. This portion of the harbor, however, is

generally crowded with vessels of this description; and, unless the

want of repairs, or some other cause, renders a close berth necessary,

it is better to remain outside.

If the Peak or Saddle is obscured by clouds or fog, after doubling the

promontory, steer N. by E. ½  E., until the sandhills are brought upon

the bearing above given, when proceed as there directed.

A short distance from the tail of the spit is a detached sandbank,

with 3½ fathoms on it. The outer edge of this is marked by a white

spar-buoy. Between this and the spit there is a narrow channel with 5

or 6 fathoms water. Vessels may pass on either side of the buoy, but it

is most prudent to go to the northward of it.

Should the wind fail before reaching the harbor, there is good

anchorage in the outer roads, in from 25 to 10 fathoms.

Excellent wood and water may be procured from the authorities of the

town; or, if preferred, water can be easily obtained from Kamida creek,

which enters the harbor to the northward and eastward of the town.

The season, at the time of our visit, was unfavorable for procuring

supplies; a few sweet and Irish potatoes, eggs, and fowls, however,

were obtained, and these articles, at a more favorable period of the

year, will no doubt be furnished in sufficient quantities to supply any

vessels that may in future visit the port.

Our seine supplied us with fine salmon and a quantity of other fish,

and the shores of the bay abound with excellent shellfish.

During our stay in this harbor, from the 17th May to 3d June, the

weather was generally pleasant until the 1st June, when the fog set in.

It was usually calm in the morning, but toward the middle of the day a

brisk breeze from S. W. sprung up.

Latitude, mouth of Kamida creek 41° 49′ 22″ N.

Longitude, ” ” ” 140° 47′ 45″ E.

Variation 4° 30′ W.

High Water, F. and C 5 hours.

Extreme rise and fall of tide 3 feet.

Our chronometers were rated at Napa Kiang, Loo-Choo, from the position

of that place as given by Captain Beechy, R. N.

THE CURRENCY QUESTION.

[In the text is given an account of the negotiations relative to the

comparative value of the American and Japanese coin. It is thought

as well to give the report of the pursers appointed to arrange the

question, which will be found below.]

UNITED STATES STEAM-FRIGATE POWHATAN,

SIMODA, _June 15, 1854_.

SIR: The committee appointed by you, in your letter of the 12th

instant, to confer with a committee from the Japanese commissioners in

reference to the rate of exchange and currency between the two nations

in the trade at the ports opened, and to settle the price of coal to be

delivered at this port, beg leave to report:—

The Japanese committee, it was soon seen, came to the conference with

their minds made up to adhere to the valuation they had already set

upon our coins, even if the alternative was the immediate cessation

of trade. The basis upon which they made their calculation was the

nominal rate at which the government sells bullion when it is purchased

from the mint, and which seems also to be that by which the metal

is received from the mines. The Japanese have a decimal system of

weight, like the Chinese, of catty, tael, mace, candareen, and cash,

by which articles in general are weighed; but gold and silver are not

reckoned above taels. In China a tael of silver in weight and one in

currency are the same, for the Chinese have no silver coin; but in

Japan, as in European countries, the standard of value-weight and

that of currency-weight differ. We were told that a tael weight of

silver has now come to be reckoned, when it is bullion, as equal to

225 candareens, or 2 taels, 2 mace, 5 candareens; but when coined, the

same amount in weight is held to be worth 6 taels, 4 mace. It is at the

bullion value that the government has decided to receive our dollar,

the same at which they take the silver from the mines; asserting that,

as its present die and assay give it no additional value, it is worth

no more to them. In proportion to a tael, a dollar weighs 7 mace, 1 1-5

candareen, which, at the rates of bullion value, makes it worth 1 tael,

6 mace, or 1,600 cash. Thus the Japanese government will make a profit

of 66-2/3 per cent. on every dollar paid them of full weight, with the

trifling deduction of the expense of recoining it. The injustice of

this arrangement was shown, and the propriety of paying to the seller

himself the coin we gave at this depreciated rate urged, but in vain.

For gold the rate is more, as the disparity between the value of

bullion and that of coin, among the Japanese, is not so great. A

tael weight of gold is valued at 19 taels in currency, and a mace at

1 tael, 9 mace. The gold dollar weighs almost 5 candareens, but the

Japanese have reckoned it as the twentieth part of a $20 piece, which

they give as 8 mace, 8 candareens; and, consequently, the dollar is

only 4 candareens, 4 cash. This weight brings the gold dollar, when

compared with the tael of bullion gold worth 19 taels, to be worth 836

cash, and the $20 piece to be worth 16,720 cash, or 16 taels, 7 mace,

2 candareens. This, when converted into a silver value, makes a gold

dollar worth 52¼ cents, and a $20 piece worth $10 45, at which the

Japanese propose to take them. But this valuation of the gold dollar

at 52¼ cents, when reckoned at 836 cash, its assessed value by the

Japanese government, suffers the same depreciation as our silver; and

its real value, when compared with the inflated currency in use among

the people, is only about 17¼ cents. Consequently, by this estimate,

gold becomes 50 per cent. worse for us to pay in than silver. The

currency value of a gold dollar, taking the its-evoo as of equal

purity, and comparing them weight for weight, is only 1,045 cash, or

nearly 22 cents in silver; so that the actual depreciation on the part

of the Japanese is not so great as silver—being for the two metals,

when weighed with each other, for silver as 100 to 33-1/3, and for gold

as 22 to 17. The elements of this comparison are not quite certain,

and therefore its results are somewhat doubtful; but the extraordinary

discrepancy of both metals, compared with our coins and with their own

copper coins, shows how the government has inflated the whole monetary

system in order to benefit itself.

The parties could come to no agreement, as we declined to consent to

the proposals of the Japanese, who were decided to adhere to their

valuation of a silver dollar at 1 tael, 6 mace, or 1,600 cash; neither

would they consent to do justly by us in relation to the moneys paid

them at this place before our departure for Hakodadi, at the rate of

only 1 tael, 2 mace, or 1,200 cash, to the dollar, by which they had

made a profit of 76 per cent. on each dollar, stating that the money

paid them at this rate had passed out of their hands; and, moreover,

that the prices placed upon the articles furnished had been charged at

reduced prices with reference to the low value placed upon the dollar.

For the amount due and unsettled, for supplies received at Yokuhama,

and on account of which Purser Eldredge paid Moriyama Yenoske, imperial

interpreter, $350 in gold and silver, that they might be assayed and

tested at Yedo, they consent to receive the dollar at the valuation

now placed on them—that is, at the rate of 1,600 cash for the silver

dollar.

We carefully investigated the price of the coal to be delivered to

vessels in this port. We learn that 10,000 catties or 100 piculs have

arrived; and this, at the rate of 1,680 catties to a ton of 2,240

pounds, or 16 4-5 piculs, costs 262 taels, 6 mace, 5 candareens, 3

cash, or $164 16; making the rate to be $27 91 per ton. The Japanese

state that the price of coal would be considerably reduced as the

demand for it increased, and their facilities for mining became more

perfect.

In conclusion, we take pleasure in expressing our thanks to

Messrs. Williams and Portman, whose services as interpreters were

indispensable, and from whom we received important aid in our

investigations.

We have the honor to be, respectfully, your obedient servants,

WILLIAM SPEIDEN,

_Purser U. S. Navy_.

J. C. ELDREDGE,

_Purser U. S. Navy_.

Commodore M. C. PERRY,

_Commander-in-Chief U. S. Naval Forces

in the East India and China Seas_.

TABLE OF JAPANESE DISTANCES.

Twenty-eight and one fifth Ree, make one degree.

One Ree is equal to thirty-six Tsho.

One Tsho is equal to sixty Ken.

One Ken is equal to one Meter, and nine hundred and nine thousandth of

a meter.

A Meter is about 39⅓ inches.

_Japanese Measurement of the Heights of Foogee Yama._

Thirty-six Streets.

One Street, sixty Ikis.

One Iki, six Fans.[6]

Six Fans, five American feet.

[6] The fans used by the officials of Japan, are of a uniform size,

and regulated by custom.

THE END.

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The Japan expedition. Japan and around the world An account of three visits to the Japanese empire, with sketches of Madeira, St. Helena, cape of Good Hope, Mauritius, Ceylon, Singapore, China, and Loo-Choo · 第 15 / 15 章