CHAPTER XI.

Six months precisely from the day of the first landing of the Americans

in Japan, the mail having arrived from Suez, and the other vessels of

the squadron having left in advance, we prepared to follow. On the

morning of the 14th of January, the black smoke rolling away from their

funnels, announced steam being gotten up on three as large war-steamers

as were to be seen in any waters—the Powhatan, the Susquehanna, and

the old Mississippi steam-frigates. Considering their size, it was a

sight that the harbor of Hong Kong had never before witnessed, and

will no doubt be many a day before it shall see again. At half-past

ten in the morning, everything being ready, agreeably to signal the

ships got under way, the Susquehanna leading out, and the Powhatan

and Mississippi following, with the Lexington and Southampton in tow.

As the flag-ship passed the Winchester, the English admiral manned

his rigging, cheered, and fired a parting salute, which was returned

promptly.

The first part of the run we had fine steamingweather. We stood up to

Breaker Point on the China coast, and then headed across the channel

for the south end of the island of Formosa. In three days this land was

in sight, and we ran past it on a lovely evening, with the cultivation

and fine growth of trees in full view. The setting sun soon lit up

gorgeously the whole picture, and nature in its beauty having no

barbaric phase, one could scarcely realize that a spot so lovely to

the sight, was the home of a lot of throat-cutting, piratical Chinese

refugees. Before daylight disappeared, we saw the lonely spike-headed

_Velo Rete_ rocks, standing in mid-ocean, a dreaded thing to mariners,

and right ahead was visible the conical little island of _Botel Tobago_.

At night we passed the island of Sammassama, inhabited by a peculiar

people. In two days more we had rough, stormy weather, and the ships

in tow were cast off to proceed under sail. The navigation among the

islands on the northeastern side of Formosa, owing to the currents,

becomes very intricate.

On the night of the 19th we could hear the breakers, on the reef

surrounding the island of Typinsan, on which the Providence, English

twenty-gun ship, was wrecked in 1790. We passed the Amakarimas on the

21st, and in the evening the three steamers anchored in the roads of

Napa, Loo-Choo, where we found the razee Macedonian, the sloop-of-war

Vandalia, and the storeship Supply. In a few days the two other

storeships arrived, and the weather became very rough. The sea broke

and tumbled furiously in over the reefs, while the ships rolled at

their moorings, and communication by boat between them was almost

discontinued.

About this time a young assistant engineer of the Susquehanna died,

and the boats that accompanied the body for burial ashore, had to row

through the heavy sea. Pity but that he had been left at Macao, from

which place he had written to his friends not to write him again as he

would soon be home. Poor fellow, it was his long home he soon went to.

The boisterous weather continuing, the carpenters were unable to

transfer a deck cabin from the Susquehanna to the Powhatan, to which

vessel it was in contemplation to transfer the flag, or to discharge

the coal from the Supply and land it.

The Mississippi having been as deep as usual with her coal, on leaving

Hong Kong, and rolling heavily in her run from that place, was found,

while laying at her anchors, to leak from twenty-two to twenty-four

inches of water, in twenty-four hours, which was deemed sufficient by

those on board, considering how flat a floor the ship had.

On the 31st of January, the weather having become more favorable,

agreeably to order, the Macedonian, Vandalia, Southampton, and

Lexington, got under way and stood handsomely out of the harbor, bound

on their first visit to Japan. An exploration party by land, left, on

the same morning, for the northern part of the island, where it had

been said powder was manufactured, and that there was coal. The result

of the exploration was the bringing back some of the “coal _blossom_,”

from which some were sanguine, that there was coal on the island. It

will be many a day before any steamer will cross the Pacific in the

latitude of Loo-Choo; and Napa will never be the place selected for

coaling.

During the night a poor devil of a Loo-Chooan paddled off to the

Susquehanna, soliciting safety, from some on shore, whom he motioned,

were going to kill him. Not having previously, “declared his intention

in the United States,” it was not possible to get up another Koszta

affair! His canoe was hoisted on board, and the man put under the

sentry’s charge. The converted missionary at Napa—Dr. Bettelheim,

expressed the belief, that the poor creature was a spy. This opinion

was not at all surprising from the Dr., who never displayed amiability

toward the population, and in answer to an inquiry about their history,

or their upper classes, his response was “They are all liars—not

a word of truth in them.” This feeling appeared to be entirely

reciprocated by the Loo-Chooans, to whom his presence appeared most

distasteful.

When other mediums than himself were adopted for the procurement of

eatables, &c., we generally found, that we succeeded better. The

Loo-Chooans are not in a condition to receive gospel-truth, and

his efforts at proselyting were all well known in Japan, and any

protection, that we might appear to extend to him, or the slightest,

even apparent co-operation with him, were not at all calculated to

advance the desires of our government with the Japanese. Besides

this, it is said, that some, temporarily connected with the squadron,

distributed “Yesoo” or religious tracts among the people, during our

stay, which was not adventitious for our objects with a people, to whom

in his letter, to allay their ever-active suspicions, in the first

paragraph, the president had deemed it necessary to say, that the

envoy he had sent them was “no missionary of religion.” Certain it is

that no attempt at increasing the field of missionary labor, among the

jealous, tenacious, and suspicious Niphon race, who chiefly inhabit the

northwest islands of the Pacific, can ever go _pari passu_ with efforts

to establish treaty relations and commercial intercourse, unless like

Mohammed preaching against the idols of the Kaaba, the cimetar gleams

in one hand, while the Good Book is upheld by the other.

Dr. Bettelheim having received intelligence from England, of being

superseded by another missionary, named Moreton, was with his family

tendered a passage in the Supply to China. He left behind more patients

than proselytes; poor patients, grateful for the physical assistance,

which his Esculapian art had enabled him to extend to them, when

afflicted with the noxious diseases of the island. This medicinal

aid was, no doubt, often extended under difficulty—the want of faith

in the remedy by the afflicted, and the sneers of the bystanding

native _Hippocrates_. I remember on one occasion, being attracted by a

group, who gathered around a white-headed old native, who had fallen

apparently in a fit. As he lay stretched upon the ground, some held

up his head at intervals, and attempted to give him chah or warm tea

to drink, while a native Sangrado, was leopardizing him with _mochsa_

burning. Dr. Bettelheim, who was by, thought the man should be bled,

but he said, “If I bleed him, and he recovers, they will say, the

_mochsa_ cured him; if I bleed him and he dies, they will declare I

killed him.”

It was understood that the commodore had purchased or procured from

the authorities, the place on shore at Tumai, where our coal had been

stored, and over which a shed had been erected. It was left in charge

of an acting master’s mate, who had command of a number of invalid

seamen, quartered in a building not far off. The American flag floated

over the coal shed, for the first time, on the 5th of February.

During this visit the people appeared rather more friendly than usual.

We took our walks as formerly to the castellated and beautiful Sheudi.

The vernacular had been slightly acquired by the juveniles; a small

boy in a school counted twelve for me in English quite plainly, while

others desiring to display the activity peculiar to juvenility, when

scrambling for coppers, would say as you passed, “American—how do you

do?”

On the 3d of February, the commodore with a suite and military escort

similar to the one of June 6th preceding, paid another official visit

to the palace at Sheudi: a proceeding anything else than devoutly

wished for by the prince-regent. The palace-gates were opened and we

were ushered into the former hall of audience. On this occasion a

number of American gold and silver coin were left with them, for which

they were informed, that on the return of the squadron, they were to

give an equivalent in similar metals of their currency. They would

gladly have avoided this, but they felt themselves the victims of a

gently-forcible suasion, that there was no getting around.

A banquet was spread as before, and as each guest left the building,

an attendant functionary at the door handed him a red slip of paper

written on in the mandarin character, which proved to be kind of

hospitality shares, and on their presentation at the city of Napa,

entitled the holder to a “cumshaw” of a pipe and pouch, and bundle of

paper.

On the 7th of February the three steamers left Loo-Choo for Japan. On

getting outside of the harbor a sail hove in sight, which proved to

be the sloop-of-war Saratoga from Shanghae. We lay to for an hour and

a half, getting from her in boats, bullocks and provisions that she

had brought. At five in the evening we were off the northern part

of Loo-Choo island—“Mellville,” which had been surveyed by Captain

Beechy, R. N., and resurveyed by boats from our squadron.

We got, after leaving Loo-Choo, what the sailors call a good “slant” of

wind, and ran free under canvass as well as steam. On the night of the

11th it came on thick and chilly, and found us groping our way among

the chain of islands just southward of Ohosima. One steamer was unable

to discern the lights of another, and the midnight navigation was not

rendered any more pleasurable by the corybantic sea, or the reflection

that during the day we had discovered dangerous rocks poking their

points above the water, not laid down upon the charts, which would

punch a hole in the bottom of a ship with no compunction. But it is

remarkable what indifference or philosophy takes possession of those,

who are accustomed to plough the great deep, upon such occasions. They

may know the peril of the locality in which they are sailing, yet they

turn in as usual; sleep and snore, and reck not of what may come.

The next morning was Sunday: we had left Japan on that day, and we were

now returning to it. The sun came up bright and clear, but the air had

become very cold, and penetrated the ear painfully as we stood upon

deck, because of the transition from the more genial temperature of

Loo-Choo, which we had left a few days before. On our right hand was

_Ohosima_—the smoke slowly ascending from its volcano like incense

from nature’s altar, while right ahead of us were the mountain ranges

of the shore of Japan wrapped in snow—yes snow, a thing we had not

laid eyes on for many a month before:—

And as springs in deserts found, seem sweet,

“All brackish though they be,”

so this even chilling remembrance, brought up a warmth of recollection

of our own country.

Having drifted a good deal during the night, daylight found us opposite

the wrong bay—that of Kawatsoo, instead of Yedo. But lucky so it

was, for on approaching, two ships were descried in under the land.

On reaching signal distance we made out the numbers, flying at their

mast-heads, to be those of the Macedonian and Vandalia. The latter

vessel, being the nearest, soon telegraphed the flag-ship “ashore is

the Macedonian,” this vessel the night before, when thick and hazy,

having gotten on a reef. When we came up she had thrown over a number

of things to lighten her, and had slung and buoyed her guns too, to

let them go, if necessary. Signal was made for the three ships to come

to anchor. In the afternoon, the sea being smoother, the Mississippi

was directed to pull the Macedonian off the reef, which she did

finely, parting one hawser in the undertaking. The ships remained

at this anchorage for the night. Before sundown, most opportunely,

the Lexington hove in sight. The Southampton, more lucky than the

other sailing-vessels, had made the bay of Yedo, and her true, old

sailor-commander had run up it, as far as the sailing-chart furnished

him, laid down. The Japanese on shore, who knew of the grounding of the

Macedonian, had gone up to where the Southampton lay, and informed them

of an American ship with a white streak around her, being ashore, and

with a native chart, they pointed out the spot, where she was. Captain

Boyle despatched a launch with an officer to her assistance, though the

arrival of the steamers, rendered it unnecessary.

No sight could have exceeded in magnificence the one presented by

_Foogee Yama_ at daylight, the next morning. The clouds that had

obscured it the evening before had disappeared with the night. The air

was clear; the mountain seemed to have moved nearer during darkness;

its mantle of snow, divided by rugged ravines, was more plain; and when

the moon was setting, and sharply defining one side with its chill,

cold rays, the sun, in all his state, came up upon the other, and

burnished with brilliant glory the huge cone as it swelled up into the

sky.

We entered the bay of Yedo in the morning of the 13th of February, the

Susquehanna towing the Vandalia; the Powhatan, the Lexington; and the

Mississippi, having more towing-power from greater face of wheel and

immersion of paddle, the Macedonian. As before, the batteries were

ready, and guns shotted; but instead of proceeding cautiously, as on

the occasion of our former visit, the line of ships ran directly past

their forts and into their inner bay, not stopping until reaching what

had been called “American anchorage,” on our first reconnoissance,

about ten miles above the port of Uraga, off the island of Natse.

The storeship Southampton had arrived there some days before. We

had scarcely anchored when some Japanese officials came off to the

flag-ship to welcome the commodore and officers back to Japan. They

verified the intelligence we had received through the Russians before

leaving China—that of the death of the emperor _Minamoto Jyekosi_,

and the accession to the throne of his son, with the title _Minamoto

Yosisaki-sei-tai-seogun_. It was very soon discovered from them, to our

surprise, that their government was prepared to return an affirmative

response to the demands and requests contained in the letter of our

president. They informed the commodore that a building had been

erected, and preparations made to receive him at Uraga, where they said

was a high functionary who would deliver to him the imperial answer to

the president’s letter, and begged that he would move his squadron down

to that place.

The commodore, through his captain of the fleet, peremptorily refused

to accede to this request, on the ground that the anchorage there was

too much exposed at that season of the year; and requested them to

inform their government that a suitable place for his interviews with

those appointed to confer with him, must be selected in the vicinity

of the then anchorage of his squadron, otherwise, if he moved at all,

it would be to ascend the bay in the direction of Yedo.

Several days were allowed to elapse before the Japanese consented to

change the location for the negotiations. The weather proved quite

rough, but the boats of the squadron, under that most admirable officer

and gentleman, Lieutenant W. L. Maury, continued to make soundings and

cross-bearings in the direction of the city. On one day the weather

proved so rough, that the surveying-boats and their parties, unable to

get back to their own ships, remained with the Southampton all night,

which vessel had been moved further out and higher up to triangulate

upon.

The Mississippi was heeled with her guns, and her shot and shell

temporarily transferred to the Susquehanna, to get at her leak. The

broad-pennant was transferred from the latter ship to the Powhatan;

state-department cherry cordial was freely set out for visiting

Japanese officers aboard of the flag-ship; and the Vandalia, with

Fleet-Captain Adams, was sent down to Uraga to have an interview with

the governor of the place, and to tender a passage up to the squadron,

to the high functionary with the imperial answer at that place. This

was declined. They said that thus far they had yielded to us, and it

was but right that we should do so in some things to them, especially

as they had already erected houses for reception and negotiation at

Uraga.

It was well known that “nulla vestigia retrorsum,” should be the

motto in dealing with these people; and the Japanese finding that

the American “Mahomet would not come to the mountain,” decided that

the “mountain should go to Mahomet,” and so consented to the removal

of their buildings higher up the bay. It so happened, that just at

the time that the Vandalia appeared in sight on her return with the

declension of the Japanese, that the remainder of the squadron had

gotten underway to move ten or twelve miles higher up to the more

land-locked anchorage off Kana Gawa, or river Kana, and the Japanese

believing there to be an immediate concert of action, and our

surveying-boats having approached to within a very few miles of their

great capital, very readily acquiesced in our requests.

On the 22d of February the different ships fired a salute in honor of

the day. The atmosphere was the purest, and it was a fit presence in

which to honor the memory of George Washington—_Foogee-Yama_, with

its mantle of snow, towered upon the sight, its ermine of the elements

typifying the purity of his character; and its great height, the

eminence which he attained in the eyes of the world.

The spot selected for the erection of the buildings for the

conferences, was on the beach of the village of Yokohama, or compost

town, in the small bight of Kawa-saki, and separated from the city of

Kanagawa by the little river Kana. This place was quite sheltered by a

projecting bluff below. The Japanese, as could be seen through a glass

at two and a half miles distant, set to work in the erection of the

buildings on shore, with a Babel-like activity; and the ships of the

squadron moved in closer and formed a crescent line in their anchorage,

agreeably to buoys previously established.

While the buildings were being gotten ready, a number of their

fast-sailing, sharp, copperplated and tassel-prowed boats, some quite

ornamentally painted, came off and moved round the ships, their inmates

not being allowed to come alongside by their government’s cruisers,

peering all they could. The sterns of these boats are open, or indented

to the distance of a foot or so in their build, they believing,

perhaps, that the eddying water at this point serves to propel the

craft. The tall, square masts of their boats, when not under sail,

rests on a kind of gallows at the stern. At one corner of the stern

is an upright bamboo-pole to which, like a tavern-keeper’s sign, is

attached by strips, a cotton or provincial flag; if it be a government

or customhouse boat, the flag is of white cotton with a horizontal

black stripe through the centre of it. On the other corner is a similar

arrangement, from which is suspended the universal paper lantern,

differing from the Chinese in lifting up, instead of opening out like

an umbrella. The rowers of these boats are athletic men, who appear

very indifferent to cold, and in the chilliest weather their cotton

garments are most epigrammatic in character.

The Japanese officials, or gentlemen, who came off to the ships

were politely received and kindly entertained, at which they seemed

gratified, and, after the manner of their land, indicated their

appreciation by bringing from time to time little presents of

lacquered-ware, &c. I don’t remember to have seen anything else but

the most quiet and gentle manner in any of these visiters, except

in the case of an impertinent little officer of artillery, who it

would have been as well to have shown the gangway. This fussy little

animal, who rejoiced in a flaming pair of big brocade breeches, being

a consumptive, according to the Æsculapian theory of his country,

left all “the hair on the top of his head,” which according to our

theory is the “place where hair ought to be.” He had, however, the

cheroot-cigar-looking tuft of hair laying horizontal, and end pointing

forward. This fussy little person pryed into everything about the ship

with rude curiosity. He came and went from the cabin without decorum,

and examined huffily officers’ state-rooms, without solicitation. The

only point of interest in the diminutive animal was, that he appeared

to understand quite well, how a howitzer in battery should be worked.

A dinner was given on the Susquehanna, by her commander, to Yezimon,

governor of the province of Uraga, and a suite of ten others, among

whom was the little peripatetic consumptive of the artillery. The

Japanese being accustomed to the use of the chop-sticks at their

meals—which are not of ivory as the Chinese, but lacquered black—were

a little awkward at first in the use of the Christian assistants of

knife and fork, but it did not take them long to acquire the requisite

facility, when they made up for lost time. The cherry cordial, of which

they are very fond, did not go untasted, and champaigne was by no means

neglected by them. Accustomed to the small saki-cup, they admired

the contents more than the size of our glasses. When any health was

proposed, the Japanese—as if using the staghead-pattern cup dug up at

Pompeii—turned their goblets upside down on the table, to show the

absence of heel-taps.

The health of their emperor was drank, for which the governor, through

his interpreter, returned thanks and gave the health of the president

of the United States; and after his own health had been given, he

gave the health of the commodore (not present). This was all very

well apparently, but I shrewdly suspect that for the hint, they were

indebted to Mr. A. L. C. Portman, who was present and interpreted from

the Dutch, in which they preferred conversing at all times: he is too

conversant with the proper etiquette of such occasions, to let this

surmise go unindulged in. They remained at the table some two hours,

during which time one of their number present, “by request,” sang a

Japanese song—if a kind of a cross between the half wail, half-vocal

screech of the Chinese, a boy dragging a stick over the palings after

him, and a severe asthma, may be called a song. In return one of the

lieutenants of the ship present, sang “Ginger Blue.” “Ginger Blue” sang

in the hermetic empire! What impertinence, O Jonathan! to indulge in

such refrains before the potentate presence that once required knocking

of head from a Russian count! Thy good friend the _London Times_, will

“condemn thee to everlasting redemption for this,” and when it learns

it, how many additional articles will appear in its columns headed

“_More American Wit_.”

Yezimon, on leaving the ship where he had been so handsomely

entertained, remarked that he hoped he would have the opportunity

of reciprocating the courtesies which had been shown them, when the

friendship (treaty) had been made; they would then see more of us, and

we more of them and their towns. As customary, they left a number of

little presents, consisting of confections in small wooden boxes, and

flowers, and little birds on miniature trees, made with shells. Their

specimens of spun-glass did not equal in whiteness and fineness what we

see at home.

While at dinner, they laid aside their two swords. I had a very good

opportunity of examining them in the cabin of the Mississippi. The

Damascus may not equal them; but they evinced much surprise when I

showed them the temper of this far-famed blade, by an engraving, in

which the point of one appeared so bent as to be put through the guard.

The Japanese blade is of the most magnificent steel; it has the back

shaped like that of a razor, and the edge is equally as sharp, and so

highly polished that they look black instead of bright, and the breath

disappears from their surface, as from the face of the finest mirror.

The hilts were without “basket” of any kind, and about a foot in

length, intended to be grasped, when in use, with both hands. They were

covered with the skin of the shark, or the corrugated plaice, wrapped

in silk cord in diamond shapes, and ornamented with amulets in the

shape of small animals, made of gold, boxwood, red coral, or bronze.

The guard, which was a circle of bronze, was decussated, and frequently

had an image of a fly entangled in a web. The blade has little curve,

and is contained in a scabbard of wood finely lacquered, and ornamented

with purple cord.

The Japanese interpreter present spoke English tolerably; said he

had learned it from an American at Nangasaki, but took good care not

to mention that this American was one of the sailors whom the United

States ship Preble took from them in 1849, who had been held by them in

captivity. They were very desirous of getting dictionaries and grammars

in English. They were offered a passage to the United States in one of

the steamers; they said “No; they would come when they could build

ships”—indicating the three masts with their fingers, and the yards by

crossing them. Two of the party ascended as high as the main-top.

The houses on shore progressed, and were being built without any

palisade enclosure, as had been agreed on. On the 4th of March we had

a slight fall of snow, and the air was cool. The Japanese, with the

ships’ casks, brought off in their boats, from some place of their

river, water to fill our tanks. They brought two kinds, and desired us

to choose between them. Everything in Japan having any connection with

strangers, is deemed a matter of such importance, that the water-boats

were always accompanied by others with municipal officials. They were

entertained with cakes and tea and wine; and were quite curious in

examining each portion of the ship. They did not understand why we

should have brought so many vessels. They told us that the Russian

squadron had been at Nangasaki, and left there on the 12th of February.

At that time they declared their intention of making a treaty with

the “American States” alone. They would present their fans on which

they desired some sentiment to be written, and many of them took away

the marginal aphorisms of a pocket-dictionary. Their own cards were

presented, written perpendicularly on strips of paper, such as Mr.

Olee-ke-chay-suo, or Mr. To-ta-ro-sa-koo-ka. They were very polite in

writing names in Japanese characters in our books. I requested one

to write a name on the title-page of a Book of Common Prayer, which

happened to have a steel engraving of the cross upon it. He had dipped

his camel’s-hair pencil into his portable inkstand, passed the point

through his lips, and was about to write when his eye rested upon the

cross; he instantly shook his head, threw the book upon the table, nor

could he be induced to touch it again.

Some of the officers who visited the shore near the buildings, brought

flowered branches of the wild Camellia Japonica, which is native here.

Upon being put on the table near a stove, they sent forth a pleasant

perfume. The leaf here is of the deepest and most lovely green; but the

flower, though as large, had not the same delicacy of petal—perhaps

owing to exposure to the cold winds—as the same flower, after

hot-house nurture, in the United States.

On the 6th of March a mariner died on the Mississippi of an affection

of the brain. The sloop-of-war Saratoga, after a boisterous passage

from Shanghae, and being blown off from the mouth of the bay of Yedo,

arrived and anchored in the line. This dropping in of the ships and the

subsequent arrival of another, the Japanese did not understand, and

perhaps thought with Macbeth:—

“Will the line stretch out to the crack o’doom.”

The 8th of March had been selected for the landing of the commodore to

meet the Japanese commissioners at Yokohama, but there was very little

of the excitement or interest felt in this landing, that attached to

the first, in July preceding, except on the part of those from the

ships, that had not been to Japan on the previous occasion. Then there

was some doubt and uncertainty; the Japanese might or might not attempt

the Golownin game on us; they say now, they were prepared for us then

as enemies, they now receive us as friends: besides this we had now

taken exactly the measurement of their foot, and our force was treble

as great.

The following memorandum order was issued:—

On the first landing of the commodore to meet the Japanese

commissioners, he will be escorted by all the marines of the squadron,

who can be spared from duty.

Major Zeilin will make the necessary arrangement.

The bands of music from the Powhatan, Susquehanna, and Mississippi,

will be in attendance.

_Four_ boats will be sent from each of the steamers and the

Macedonian, carrying forty seamen in addition to the boats’ crews, and

their proportion of marines and musicians.

_Three_ boats from the Vandalia, to carry thirty men as above.

_One_ boat from each of the storeships to assist in carrying the

marines, &c., on shore.

Half of the captains to remain on aboard. Those who land will leave

the first lieutenant in charge of the ship. There will be subsequent

opportunities for all to land who wish it.

_Three_ officers from each ship can join the escort.

The officers to be in undress-uniform, frock-coats, cap, swords,

epaulets, and pistol.

The men armed with musket, sword, and pistol, and dressed in blue

jackets and trowsers, and white frocks.

The musicians armed with sword and pistol, and all to be provided with

musket or pistol cartridge-boxes.

All boat-guns to be mounted and ammunition in boats.

A list of the officers, who are to land, is to be furnished to the

captain of the fleet, by 10 A. M., on Monday 6th inst.

Senior officer landing to take command and confer with captain of the

fleet.

An officer to be in charge of the men from each ship, and one in

charge of each boat. These officers are not to leave the boats, nor

quit their divisions of men.

If the boats are likely to be overcrowded, the numbers of the crew may

be reduced.

About 11 o’clock in the morning of the 8th, preparation being complete,

twenty-nine boats of the different ships, with officers and crews

armed and equipped agreeably to the order, were formed in a line

abreast according to rank of commanders, and pulled ashore, presenting

a beautiful sight. The number landing, including officers, was about

five hundred. The commodore not long after, left the flag-ship in a

white barge, under a minister’s salute of seventeen great guns from the

Macedonian, he going ashore in the capacity of “Special Ambassador.”

On reaching the beach, as before, he was received by his officers, and

with American national airs from the bands. The column of escort was

then formed, and all marched to the reception-house—a short distance.

A large field around the buildings had been screened off with striped

cotton cloth, of black and white, while the common people of the

village were kept back by ropes, extending from a growth of fine trees

to the water’s edge. A Japanese guard of honor with lances, were drawn

up on the right in rear of our line of marines and sailors, and a

cordon of the sharp government boats lined the beach to the left.

The high officers, who had been appointed to treat with Commodore

Perry, were:

Hayashi Daigaku, no-kami; chief commissioner to form the treaty, and

member of council.

Ido, Prince of Tsu-Sima, second commissioner.

Izawa, Prince of Mima Saki, third commissioner.

Tsudzuki Suruga, no-kami, Prince of Suruga, fourth commissioner.

Udono, Mimbu Sheyoyu, member of board of revenue, fifth commissioner.

Takenoüchi Shitaro, member of board of revenue, sixth commissioner.

Matsusaki Michitaro, seventh commissioner.

The chief Japanese interpreter was Moriyama Yenoske, and Hori

Tatsnoske, and Namura Gohachiro, were two other interpreters. “No-kami”

means a very learned man; one into whose head no more information can

be gotten.

The first, second, third, fifth, and seventh commissioners acted.

On entering the hall, the commodore was received by the five

commissioners. The party being seated, the flag of Japan was run up on

board the Powhatan, and saluted with twenty-one guns from the launches,

after which another salute of seventeen guns was given to the Japanese

high commissioners, which the Japanese say, they took as a great

compliment.

The room of reception and audience was in a white pine-building,

unpainted. You entered by a flight of three steps. On either side the

room was lighted through white oiled paper in the place of glass,

placed in frames resembling sash-work. The extreme end of the room was

concealed by a large blue flag, having in its centre in white, the

Japanese coat-of-arms, composed of three quarter-moons, whose horns

unite so as to form a circle, around which at intervals, was entwined

a small wreath. The walls of the entrance were covered with paper

screens, having on them the Japanese deified or sacred bird, the crane,

perched on leafless trees. The floor was covered with mats, or rather

straw-cushions, they being some three inches thick, bound on the edges,

and very springy, when walked on. Along the entire length of the room,

were placed low benches for seats, in front of which nearly as low,

were narrow tables covered with red cotton cloth. The temperature of

the room was regulated by charcoal in full heat, placed in copper-pans

as “braziers,” resting in lacquered stands with gilt and ornamental

legs, distributed along the centre of the floor. The company being

seated—the Americans on the left and the Japanese functionaries on the

right, the Japanese interpreter received a message from his prince,

with his nose about two inches from the matting, and then dragging

or sliding himself _à la Turk_ by the use of his arms, to where the

commodore was seated, told Mr. Portman, his clerk, in Dutch, to say

to the commodore, that the prince was glad to see him, and hoped his

health was better. This civility was returned in like manner. They

then went to business: they desired to know what number of persons the

commodore wished to have retire with him in the conference: commodore

said, he wished a room for five, and named the captain of the fleet,

Mr. S. W. Williams of Canton, author of the “Middle kingdom,” his

son—his secretary, and Mr. Portman, who interpreted in Dutch. They

retired into another room in the rear, whose entrance was concealed by

a purple flag. The interview lasted some three hours, during which time

the following answer to the president’s letter was received:—

The return of your Excellency as Ambassador from the United States to

this Empire, has been expected, according to the letter of his Majesty

the President; which letter your excellency delivered last year to

his Majesty the Emperor of Japan. It is quite impossible to give

satisfactory answers at once to all the proposals of your government,

since those points are most positively forbidden by the laws of our

imperial house; but for us to continue bigotedly attached to the

ancient laws, seems to misunderstand the spirit of the age, and we

wish rather to conform to what necessity requires.

At the visit of your excellency last year, his Majesty, the former

Emperor, was sick, and is now dead. Since his Majesty, the present

Emperor, has ascended the throne, the many occupations demanding his

care, in consequence thereof are not yet finished, and there is no

time to settle other business thoroughly; moreover, his Majesty the

new Emperor, at his accession to the throne promises to the Princes

and high officers of the Empire to observe the laws. It is therefore

evident, that he can not now bring about any alteration in the ancient

laws.

Last Autumn at the departure of the Dutch ship, the superintendent of

the Dutch trade in Japan, was requested to inform your government of

this event, and a reply in writing has been received.

At Nangasaki, the Russian Ambassador recently arrived to communicate

a wish of his government; he has since left that place, because no

answer would be given to any nation that might communicate similar

wishes.

However, we admit the urgency, and shall entirely comply with the

proposals of your government, concerning, wood, water, provisions, and

the saving of ships and their crews in distress. After being informed,

which harbor your Excellency has selected, that harbor shall be

prepared, and this preparation, it is estimated, will take about five

years. Meanwhile a commencement can be made with the coal at Nangasaki

by the beginning of the next Japanese year [10th of February, 1855].

Having no precedent with respect to coal, we request your Excellency

to furnish us with an estimate, and upon due consideration this will

be complied with, if not in opposition to our laws. What do you

understand by provisions? and how much coal?

Finally, anything ships may be in want of, that can be furnished

from the productions of this Empire shall be supplied; the prices of

merchandise and articles of barter to be fixed by Kuro-kawa Kahei,

and Moriyama Yenoske. After settling the point before mentioned, the

treaty can be concluded, and signed at the next interview.

Seal attached by order of the Imperial Commissioners.

(L. S.) MORIYAMA YENOSKE.

Kayei, 7th year, 1st moon, 26th day.

[February 23d, 1854.]

The commissioners expressed themselves prepared to commence discussions

upon the various points contained in the letter from the president,

presented last year, and also to receive any further propositions

that the commodore might wish to make—that in the determination of

the emperor to make some modification in their laws of seclusion, he

relied upon the friendly disposition of the Americans toward Japan; and

as such negotiations were entirely novel to them, they would trust with

confidence to the commodore’s superior experience, to his generosity,

and his sense of justice.

Commodore Perry was fully satisfied on all points suggested by him,

which were in accordance with Mr. Webster’s letter of instructions

to Commodore Aulick, accompanying the first letter to the emperor. A

draft treaty, in English, Dutch, Chinese, and Japanese, was put into

the hands of the Japanese commissioners, who said that it would receive

due consideration; but the old emperor had died since Commodore Perry

was there last year, and his successor was a young man, who would

require to consult his council before coming to a determination, and

the commodore was reminded that the Japanese did not act with the same

rapidity as Americans did.

After these preliminaries had been gotten through, the commodore made

known to the commissioners, that a man had been dead on the Mississippi

for two days, and he desired to know, whether he could not bury him on

an island lower down the bay, which we had already surveyed, and called

after the great statesman, “Webster Island.” They objected strongly to

this, and said, if we would deliver the body to them at Uraga, some

twenty-six miles below, that they would have it safely conveyed to

Nangasaki on the island of Kiusu, a distance of five hundred miles,

and there inter it in the burying-ground, which they have allowed the

Dutch. The commodore would not consent to this, when they agreed to

permit the burial on shore just abreast of our anchorage. They said,

they would have the spot fenced in; most probably because hereafter it

would be tabooed ground with them.

When the commissioners and commodore retired, the officers of the

escort, who remained, were treated with tea and confections. After

these thin-cooked meats, some bearing great favor to fried snakes,

cut in slips so thin that the hinges of one’s jaw would become tired,

long before his appetite became satisfied, were placed before them

on lacquered plates. This repast produced much disappointment with

the officers; they had paid two official visits to the prince-regent

of Loo-Choo island—a dependency of Japan, and on one occasion were

entertained by him with as many as thirteen different soups at one

feast, and arguing from “man to master,” they anticipated twenty-six

different kinds of soups, when they got their knees under Japanese

pine. To those who were sharp-set, the entertainment of Timon of Athens

could not have been much less satisfactory.

Equi-distant on the tables, were lacquered trays supported with feet,

on which were placed of the same material, heavy ornamental silver

“tea-pots,” containing saki, while the tea was served in thin-lacquered

cups, resting—to keep the heat from the hand—on circular pieces

of bamboo, resembling the dice-box of a backgammon-board. The Japan

lacquer—and this being a part of the “service” of royalty, must have

been a fair specimen of it, did not strike me as being incomparably

superior to that of the Chinese, as I had supposed.

When the repast was concluded some Japanese amateur-artists from Yedo,

who had come down from the city in the suite of the commissioners, made

crayon sketches of many of the officers, and seemed to labor under

the impression, that the only thing necessary to make a good American

portrait was to draw a large nose, and sketch the balance of the

features around it. Their essays at representing flowers—the Japonica

for instance, were much better.

While on shore, I took the opportunity of making a closer inspection

of the Japanese troops, who were standing in line in a neighboring

field. They did not present as good an appearance as when drawn up at

Gorihama, the year before. They did not seem as athletic as the Tartar

troops I saw at the fort back of Canton, or at Shanghae; and it appears

to me, that even if they were armed with the percussion-musket, or the

modern Minie rifle, instead of the antiquated matchlock, old Dutch

muskets, &c., as they are, still their unsoldierly costume, would

prevent, that freedom and quickness of movement, and celerity in the

use of offensive weapons, that now-a-days constitute effective troops.

In my limited reconnoissance, I took occasion to pull some of the

family Camellia Japonicas, that were growing wild. One of the

two-sworded gentry seeing me standing near the beach, with a bunch in

my hand, desired to know the name of the flower in “American.” Upon

being told he repeated the word until he got our pronunciation quite

accurately, and then wrote it down in a small soft-paper book with a

camel’s hair pencil, they always going provided with these, together

with a small bronze ink-holder, and a handle to contain the pencil,

at a short distance not unlike a small pipe, with the bowl downward.

I retorted his question and requested the name of the flower in

“Nip-pon,” as they called their country. He said, “T’su-bi-ki.” The

“illustrious stranger”—wearied me more than himself with the number

of his queries. I had to catalogue nearly every article in my wardrobe

in English for him, which he invariably noted down. Upon showing him

my watch, he pronounced the word “chronometer” quite plainly; and on

espying when the case was opened, my name engraved on the back, he

wanted to know what it was. Touching myself I pronounced my name, which

he wrote down, but hardly succeeded in repeating. They can not say “l,”

but call it “r.” The word “glove,” which they call “grove,” is too much

for them.

In the interview, the subject of supplying us with coal was broached,

which they gave a favorable response to, and promised to have some

specimen, of what coal they had, ready for inspection in a short

time. This contrasted strongly with the dissimulation practised by

them during the stay of the “Preble” at Nangasaki in 1849. Then, those

Japanese who came on board, affected the greatest curiosity in looking

at the coal in the armorer’s forge; they were much surprised at the

heated rocks, and one of them asked permission to take ashore a piece

of the coal, which he carefully wrapped in paper.

The next day Japanese officials were aboard of the Mississippi, and

held interviews there with the captain of the fleet, with regard to

furnishing fresh provisions to the ships.

During the forenoon, the mayor of Uraga, and the interpreter and

other officials came aboard, and accompanied the men sent to dig the

grave for the man who had died, to point out the spot on shore. The

burial, which took place some hours after, with the consent of the

authorities who were standing by, and in the presence of thousands of

the population, accompanied with the religious service of Christians,

was an event of much significance, when the inscription that was put by

the Japanese over the massacred Christians at Simabara is recollected:

“So long as the sun shall warm the earth, let no Christian be so bold

as to come to Japan; and let all know that the king of Spain himself,

or the Christian’s God, or the great God of all, if he violates this

command, shall pay for it with his head.” The settled oppugnation to

Christianity, of more than two hundred years, was broken through with

this burial from an American man-of-war.

Not having been present at the interment, I am indebted, for an account

of it, to the chaplain of the Mississippi—a man of great energy

of character, and who, in addition to his clerical duties on board

ship, occupied himself with literary labor, and with an indomitable

perseverance and love for scientific discovery, during the whole

cruise, at every hour of the night, addressed himself to the task of

observing the various phases of what has been called the zodiacal

light; and to his midnight labor and zeal, the astronomical world may

yet be indebted for a solution of the vexed question about this light.

“Our preparations were for an interment exactly after our usual

method upon the occasion of the burial of a marine. A great many of

the officers would have liked to have gone, and some applied for

permission; but it was thought best to give the occasion no unusual

eclat, while at the same time nothing was to be omitted.

“About three o’clock, after ‘all hands’ had been called to ‘bury the

dead,’ and the chaplain had read from the gangway the customary passage

of the Scripture, we left the ship in two boats, with the flags at

half-mast; the first contained Captain Slack of the marine corps,

assistant-surgeon Lynah, and myself, in uniform and gown; and the

other boat having the dead body, with a guard of honor, consisting of a

corporal and six marines. We landed at a spot designated—a quarter of

a mile south of the landing-place of yesterday, and in front of a large

village—Yokohama, the whole shore being lined with villagers who had

come to gaze. The mayor of Uraga, interpreter, &c., received us there.

I had expected that on their seeing me in my official costume, and

first knowing that there was a Christian minister on their shore and

among them, that there would be a recoil, and that they would shrink

from me as from something poisonous. But there was no such thing. On

the contrary, they came up successively and gave me their hand for

a shake. (They have learned our salutation, and seem to be fond of

it). The interpreter, pointing to my prayer-book, asked if it was for

ceremonies over the dead, and smiled as before, when I told him that

it was. The marines were formed in line and received the body with

presented arms, when the procession was formed and moved on: marines

with reversed arms; fife and muffled-drum playing the Dead March;

the chaplain; coffin borne by four marines; their captain, surgeon,

hospital-steward, and six or eight sailors. Our way lay through the

village, and the occasion seemed to excite quite a holy-day among them;

everybody, men, women, and children, running and gaining good places

for seeing, and squatting down on the ground till we had passed, when

they would run and gain another place for observation if they could.

The street through which we passed was, however, kept clear, and at

intervals I noticed new boards stuck up, with inscriptions, probably to

warn people from intruding on our way. But the people, even women and

children, showed no fear nor any hesitation in coming near us, or in

being seen themselves; and some shops that we passed were kept open as

usual. I saw myself often pointed out, being doubtless recognised by

my gown and book as the clergyman of the party, but it was without any

exhibition of displeasure on their countenance; but as they would look

at any other curiosity. I saw one woman hold up her little child to see

me, and the thought passed through my mind that, if it should live to

maturity, it would probably see many wonderful changes in Japan.

“Our way led quite through the village, at the further end of which,

on a wooded hill at our left, was a temple with two different flights

of steps leading up to it, and ornamented gateways below. Through

the further of these gateways, I now saw a Buddhist priest in his

officiating costume emerge, and perceived that he took his way toward

some fresh earth—the grave, a little beyond.

“They had selected for the interment a very pretty spot about a hundred

yards from the village, and closely adjoining an old burying-ground of

their own. We found the Buddhist priest seated there, but he attempted

no interference with our religious ceremonies, which I commenced (all

uncovering), as we approached the grave.

“The scene, at this time, was an exceedingly interesting one; even

apart from its being the first breaking through of the Japanese settled

opposition to Christianity. The hills here formed a semi-circular

sweep, and at one end of the semicircle we were standing. On the

opposite side, on the heights above, was the Buddhist temple. The sides

of these hills, and the whole sweep of the crest were covered with

people, quiet, and attentive spectators of what was going on.

“Close to us stood the Japanese officials, just below the grave. The

marines in line on the other side, and near them on a mat sat the

old Buddhist priest, with a little table before him, on which were a

number of papers, &c., with incense burning in their midst. Everybody

was quiet and attentive while we went through our usual service for

the solemn burial of the dead. Then the marines fired three volleys

over the grave. As the first volley was given there was a half shout

on the hills around, as if giving vent to deep observation and pent-up

curiosity, the number of which was computed by one of our officers at

two thousand.

“While they were filling up the grave, I asked permission to examine

their burying-ground, which they readily gave, the interpreter also

going with me and explaining the several parts. Against the side of

the hill is a range of sculptured stones, which he said were their

gods; some had bas-reliefs of figures like human beings on them. Across

the space were lines of small head-stones—some of these also with

human figures sculptured in bas-relief on their front, others with

inscriptions. These were commemorative of individuals buried below; and

when I observed to the interpreter that the space for each body was

very small, he replied that the dead in Japan were buried in a _sitting

posture_.

“I then went down to the Buddhist priest, a venerable-looking man of

about seventy-five years of age, who was very friendly and showed me

his rosary, half of the beads in which were glass, and half wood; also

his book.

“The interpreter opened the papers and showed us their contents,

and stated that the Buddhist had come there ‘as a compliment to Mr.

Williams’ (Williams having been the name of the deceased). On the

little table, in addition to the incense-box, and some rolls of unknown

material and paper, were also a bowl of cooked rice, a covered vessel

filled with saki, and a small gong. The priest now commenced his

ceremonies, sometimes touching the gong, sometimes stirring the saki;

while he thumbed his beads, and then muffling his hands in his robe and

bowing his head, he read some prayers in a low, unintelligible voice.

His outer dress was a pouch of very rich brocade silk covered with

fanciful figures.

“After putting head and foot boards with inscription to the grave;

and covering it in our usual manner, we left the Buddhist priest

still engaged at his ceremonies and set out on our return, the crowds

gathering around as before, and all very civil and polite, so with drum

and fife playing we returned to our boats.”

Conferences were now held daily, and negotiations progressed slowly,

but harmoniously.

It was agreed that everything official, that transpired at these

interviews, should be committed to writing that nothing might be

misunderstood, nor retracted.

On the days of assembling, an imperial barge with a canopy and gaudy

streamers, moving like the stately boat of some Doge, towed by a number

of boats, conveyed the high commissioner and suite from Kanagawa to the

place of meeting.

Among the presents intended for the emperor was a small railroad-track,

with locomotive-tender, car, &c., and a magnetic telegraph, which were

erected and put in operation on shore.

These excited a great deal of interest among the Japanese, particularly

the latter, when they were made to comprehend its utility in the

transmission of intelligence. Communications were made in their

presence in the English, Japanese, and Dutch languages. They were also

delighted with the railroad, when they saw the engine and car flying

round the track at the rate of twenty miles an hour, but thought it

would be impossible to construct them to advantage in Japan owing to

the very uneven surface of the country.

Nearly two centuries ago, the Jesuits in China seeing how necessary the

protection of the government was for their propagandism, made a number

of things to amuse and excite the curiosity of the emperor _Kang-hi_.

One of their inventions resembled the modern locomotive, though on

the Ericsson plan; it was made, like the locomotive presented to the

emperor of Japan, at Yokohama, to run in a circle also. In the large

old folio history of China, from the French of Du Halde, printed in

London one hundred and nineteen years ago (a copy of which is in the

possession of John V. L. M’Mahon, Esq., of Baltimore), I find the

following:—

“The Pneumatick Machines also, did not less excite the Emperor’s

curiosity:

“They caused a Waggon to be made of light Wood about two Foot long: in

the middle of it they placed a Brazen Vessel full of _live_ coals, and

upon that an Æolipile, the wind of which came down through a little

Pipe upon a sort of a wheel made like the sails of a Wind mill; this

little wheel turned another with an Axle tree, and by that means set

the Waggon in Motion for two hours together. But lest room should

be wanting to proceed constantly forward it was contrived to move

circularly.”

Negotiations having progressed harmoniously, on the 13th of March

launches were sent alongside of the storeships, and the presents for

the Japanese being put in them, the captain of the Macedonian with a

suite of officers, pulled ashore, and delivered them _pro forma_ to the

authorities. They were afterward pleasantly entertained by them. The

Japanese must have formed a rather exaggerated opinion of the quantity

of the presents intended for them by the Americans—judging from the

size of the room set apart for their reception. They were given to

understand that these were tokens of amity, not a tribute.

The presents for the emperor consisted of, among other things:—

A railway with steam-engine; a magnetic telegraph; a surf-boat; a

life-boat; a printing-press; a fine lorgnette; a set of Audubon’s

American Ornithology, splendidly bound; plates of American Indians;

maps of different states of America; agricultural implements, with all

the modern improvements; a piece of cloth; a bale of cotton; a stove;

rifles, pistols, and swords; champagne, cordials, and American whiskey.

And for the empress (presuming there was one):—

A telescope; a lorgnette in a gilded case; a lady’s toilet-box,

gilded; a scarlet velvet dress; a changeable silk dress flowered; a

splendid robe; Audubon’s illustrated works; a handsome set of China;

a mantelpiece clock; a parlor stove; a box of fine wines; a box of

perfumery; a box of fancy soaps.

Among the presents, perhaps the one most valued, was a copy of

Webster’s complete dictionary, to the imperial interpreter. To the high

officers were given books, rifles, pistols, swords, wines, cloths,

maps, stoves, clocks, and cordials, the latter of which they fully

appreciated; and as regards clocks, when it was proposed to bring an

engineer from shipboard to set them agoing, the Japanese said there was

no occasion for that, for they had clockmakers in Yedo who understood

them perfectly. They were curious to know, however, if Ericsson’s

caloric engine, of which they had heard, had been successful. There

were also given them a quantity of Irish potatoes, and an hydraulic-ram.

We had now been lying in their waters a month; the necessity for the

reference of many things to Yedo, caused the negotiations to drag

their weary length along. Diplomatizing may have been all very well

for those engaged in it, and getting a munch of something fresh the

while on shore, but the enchantment lent to those confined on board and

compelled to watch proceedings with a spy-glass, or take exercise on a

hurricane-deck, was very slight indeed. The supply of eatables brought

from China had disappeared; ship’s rations were ubiquitous upon the

table; and the appetite of an American exceeding, or at his ordinary

meals consuming as much as four Japanese, the scanty supply of watery

vegetables, a few pounds of fish, sweet potatoes, and chickens which

had attained their majority, and upon whose muscular thighs neither the

molars nor incisors of the most assiduous masculine chewer could make

any impression—which negotiation obtained from shore—when distributed

by signal from a storeship among a whole squadron, went but a little

way. We were undergoing all the annoyances of a state of siege, without

any of its excitements. And “Oh! it is sweet for one’s country to

die,”—but not of short commons.

The Japanese said they had no objection to the officers going ashore

to walk about the towns of Yokohama and Kanagawa, but trusted they

would not for the present go further; the people had not become used

to strangers, and their presence might produce unnecessary excitement

among them.

The chaplain of the Susquehanna was ashore on the 14th, and took a long

stroll, not getting aboard until ten o’clock at night. Had he made the

best of his time he might have had a sight of the city of Yedo, but he

spent some two or three hours in going to and fro in Kanagawa, and an

adjoining place, which enabled the wily Japanese authorities time to

communicate his whereabouts to the commodore, and to make complaint of

it. He visited the very populous city of Kanagawa, and also Kasacca.

At a wave of the hand of the Japanese officials who accompanied him,

the crowds of people opened a clear passage in the centre of the street

for him. He entered some of the houses, which he found primitive in

their furniture and arrangements, but, compared with other oriental

dwellings of the same class, neat, clean, and comfortable. In some

of them he observed clocks of Japanese manufacture. He also visited

several temples, which though smaller than in China, have more gilding

on their walls, and ornaments on their idols, and generally are in

better order. The priests as well as the people were distinguished for

their courtesy.

The cities thus visited were not only very extensive (estimated to

be six miles long), but had wide, well-formed streets. As he was

returning, a Japanese officer put into his hands an order from the

commodore for all officers to return on board, and shortly afterward

a courier, mounted on a splendid black horse, delivered a similar

despatch, and finding it was understood and acted on, turned round and

galloped back again to report the approach of the American officer, who

concluded his journey by torch-light, and found on his arrival that

everything that had occurred had been noted, even the number of buttons

on his coat being recorded. On his route he met the escort and train of

some high functionary, supposed to number some two thousand. They were

supposed to be conveying to Yokohama the few presents which they said

the emperor could only now send, for want of time to prepare others.

The negotiations, which were interrupted by the equinoctial gale,

were resumed on the 17th of March. The commodore wished them to give

us three or four ports; his squadron was a powerful one; but if he

carried back an unsatisfactory answer to his government it would send

another and a larger one for a different purpose. The Japanese were

willing to give us one port then, and another in five years; they said

they could not grant a port in the island of Yezo—hitherto called

Matsmai—without consulting the prince of that department. To this, it

was replied, “Give the port in the island of Niphon, and the squadron

would go to see the prince of Matsmai.”

On the 19th of March the squadron was increased by the arrival of

the storeship Supply, from China. She brought us the intelligence

of a naval engagement between the Russians and the Turks; but the

disappointment of many in not getting letters was great, and they

thought

Oh the troubles that do espan,

The man who _will go_ to Japan!

The Japanese having offered the harbor of Simoda, in the province

of Idzoo, as one of the ports for American ships to visit, the

Vandalia and Southampton were sent down to that place, to make a

reconnoissance, and to report upon its facilities of entrance, and

capacity. The weather was raw, rough, squally, and rainy. Agreeably

to instructions from the government, received before leaving China—a

wise thing, as naval commanders are always very chary, and not at

all disposed to render any more facilities to the foreign diplomatic

agents of the country, than they can help, on the 25th of the month,

the steam-frigate Susquehanna left Japan for Hong Kong, to convey the

new American commissioner to such of the Cinque ports as he desired to

visit.

On the same day there was a landing, not for purposes of negotiation,

but for the reception of the presents from the Japanese, which

consisted of lacquered cabinets, desks, some silks, bags of rice, &c.,

not very numerous or at all comparable in use or value to those given

them. On this occasion there was quite a number of officials present,

who were compelled to manifest curiosity, when they saw the beautiful

little locomotive, with its highly-finished rosewood car, complete in

all the customary furniture, driven by a charcoal-fire alone, at a rate

of a mile in three minutes, around a circular track of three hundred

feet. The Americans were entertained with the contests in the ring

of some Japanese athletes. These men were of great stature and much

obesity, but their limbs displayed none of the angular muscularity, of

a Monsieur Paul, lifting his cannon or resisting the draught of horses,

or the pugilistic activity of the American Tom Hyers and Sullivans, who

could no doubt whale them with little difficulty. These men are in the

pay of princes, and have such designations as “Giant of the North,” &c.

Their hair is gathered upon their head, as others of their country,

though not shorn, perhaps to prevent their Samsonian qualities being

affected. In front of their persons, which is otherwise unclothed, they

wear a scarf, with the insignia of the prince they serve upon it. They

commence with an exhibition of their strength, such as throwing with

each hand over the shoulder, or lying on the ground, and somerseting

with large straw-bags containing two hundred pounds of rice each. Then

came the trial of the ring, not more than eight feet in diameter, and

made of rice straw. Before commencing the combatants squatted and

rubbed their knees, as if to assure themselves of their strength, and

then rubbed a little dust under each arm, something like an infuriated

cow, when she throws it on her back, and then with a grunt they

closed, and though the claret was occasionally drawn, and great welts

were raised upon the shoulders, yet there did not appear much of that

belicosity, descriptions of which have graced some of the columns of

the papers of our own country, since the infusion into it of Bill Poole

blackguardism. The effort was rather to get one another out of the

ring, when the effort ends. After being sufficiently amused at this

_intellectual_ display, the commodore and party returned aboard.

Nearly every day, some of the Japanese officials came off to the

flag-ship to arrange in the preparation of the treaty, that matters

might be facilitated during the formal interviews held ashore. Chief

at such times, on their part, was Moriyama Yenoske, the imperial

interpreter in the Dutch language; indeed he was _the_ man of the

treaty, so far as the Japanese were concerned; to his friendly regard

to the Americans, his clear appreciation of propositions, and the

accurate conveyance of them to the minds of the commissioners by his

translations, we are much indebted.

On the 27th an entertainment was given to the commissioners on board of

the flag-ship. It was the first time that the Japanese imperial flag

floated from the mast-heads of foreign men-of-war. The guests came

off about three o’clock in the afternoon. On passing the Mississippi

they received a salute of seventeen great guns. They first went aboard

of the Macedonian, when her crew were beat to general quarters, and

the broadside-guns of the ship, together with her large “pivots,”

exercised before them. From here they went to the flag-ship Powhatan,

but some of them, who had changed from their steady-moving boats,

by invitation, to our buoyant and lively ones, did not have their

appetites for the repast that awaited them, improved by the qualmy

motion. On the Powhatan they were shown the exercise and rapid firing

of the twelve-pounder howitzers, in which they appeared to take much

interest. They then partook of a dinner, which had been spread for

them: the commissioners dining with the commodore, and the rest of the

company from tables spread under the awnings of the quarter-deck. The

Japanese did full justice to the dishes before them, and when partaken

to satiety, they aided the disappearance of the food, after the manner

of their country, by wrapping up and taking away an occasional pie or

sweetmeat of which they are very fond. Music from the band regaled the

occasion, and as the hermetics drained their draughts of champagne

and cordial down, they became very social, if not confidential,

and proposed frequent sentiments of friendship between “Nipong”

and America. With such a people, John Barleycorn is very potent:

particularly in treaty-making. At night on the forecastle the Japanese

witnessed a capital Ethiopic performance, at which they appeared much

amused. Indeed their stoic gravity had pretty well left them before

this hour, and one of them, during the evening, indulged in a polka

under the hurricane-deck with a very intelligent midshipman. They left

at an early hour for the shore, and after a salute from the Saratoga,

their flag was hauled down. One of the commissioners had a fancy for a

large cake, which was given him by the commodore, together with some

cordial, to be sent ashore the next day. During the night one of the

orderlies at the cabin-door stole and made away with the cake. Not

wishing to give the Japanese the bad idea of our men, that the mention

of this theft might produce, the diplomacy was resorted to of telling

the Japanese, when presenting the wine, that it was an American custom

to present cake in the evening; by which time, another one had been

made, and was sent ashore.

On the last day of March, the ships having gotten back from Simoda,

and made their report as to that harbor, the commodore had his last

official interview ashore, with the commissioners, at Yokahama,

Kanagawa, when after much difficulty, and talking, and debate as to the

wording, the following treaty was signed:—

The United States of America and the Empire of Japan, desiring to

establish firm, lasting, and sincere friendship between the two

nations have resolved to fix, in a manner clear and positive, by means

of a treaty or general convention of peace and amity, the rules which

shall in future be mutually observed in the intercourse of their

respective countries, for which most desirable object the President

of the United States has conferred full powers on his commissioner,

Matthew Calbraith Perry, special ambassador of the United States

to Japan, and the august sovereign of Japan has given similar full

powers to his commissioners, Hayashi, Daigaku-nokami, Ido, prince of

Tsus-Sima, Izawa, prince of Mimasaki, and Udono, member of the board

of revenue. And the said commissioners, after having exchanged their

said full powers, and duly considered the premises, have agreed to the

following articles:

ARTICLE I.

There shall be a perfect, permanent, and universal peace and a sincere

and cordial amity between the United States of America on the one

part, and the empire of Japan on the other part, and between their

people respectively, without exceptions of persons or places.

ARTICLE II.

The port of Simoda, in the principality of Idzu, and the port of

Hakodade, in the principality of Matsmai, are granted by the Japanese

as ports for the reception of American ships, where they can be

supplied with wood, water, provisions, coal, and other articles

their necessities may require, as far as the Japanese have them. The

time for opening the first-named port is immediately on signing this

treaty; the last-named port to be immediately after the same day in

the ensuing Japanese year. [_Note._—A tariff of prices shall be given

by the Japanese officers of the things which they can furnish, payment

for which shall be made in gold and silver coin.]

ARTICLE III.

Whenever ships of the United States are thrown or wrecked on the coast

of Japan, the Japanese vessels will assist them, and carry their

crews to Simoda, or Hakodade, and hand them over to their countrymen

appointed to receive them; whatever articles the shipwrecked men may

have preserved shall likewise be restored, and the expenses incurred

in the rescue and support of Americans and Japanese who may thus be

thrown upon the shores of either nation are not to be refunded.

ARTICLE IV.

Those shipwrecked persons and other citizens of the United States

shall be free as in other countries, and not subject to confinement,

but shall be amenable to just laws.

ARTICLE V.

Shipwrecked men and other citizens of the United States, temporarily

living at Simoda and Hakodade, shall not be subject to such

restrictions and confinement as the Dutch and Chinese are at Nagasaki,

but shall be free at Simoda to go where they please within the limits

of seven Japanese miles (or _ri_) from a small island in the harbor of

Simoda, marked on the accompanying chart hereto appended; and shall in

like manner be free to go where they please at Hakodade, within limits

to be defined after the visit of the United States squadron to that

place.

ARTICLE VI.

If there be any other sort of goods wanted, or any business which

shall require to be arranged, there shall be careful deliberation

between the parties in order to settle such matters.

ARTICLE VII.

It is agreed that ships of the United States resorting to the ports

open to them shall be permitted to exchange gold and silver coin and

articles of goods for other articles of goods, under such regulations

as shall be temporarily established by the Japanese government for

that purpose. It is stipulated, however, that the ships of the United

States shall not be permitted to carry away whatever articles they are

unwilling to exchange.

ARTICLE VIII.

Wood, water, provisions, coal, and goods required, shall only be

procured through the agency of Japanese officers appointed for that

purpose, and in no other manner.

ARTICLE IX.

It is agreed that if at any future day the government of Japan shall

grant to any other nation or nations, privileges and advantages which

are not herein granted to the United States and the citizens thereof,

these same privileges and advantages shall be granted likewise to the

United States and to the citizens thereof, without any consultation or

delay.

ARTICLE X.

Ships of the United States shall be permitted to resort to no other

ports in Japan but Simoda and Hakodade, unless in distress or forced

by stress of weather.

ARTICLE XI.

There shall be appointed by the government of the United States

consuls or agents to reside in Simoda, at any time after the

expiration of eighteen months from the date of the signing of this

treaty; provided that either of the two governments deem such

arrangement necessary.

ARTICLE XII.

The present convention having been concluded and duly signed, shall

be obligatory and faithfully observed by the United States of America

and Japan, and by the citizens and subjects of each respective power;

and it is to be ratified and approved by the President of the United

States, by and with the advice and consent of the Senate thereof,

and by the august sovereign of Japan, and the ratification shall

be exchanged within eighteen months from the date of the signature

thereof, or sooner if practicable.

In faith whereof, we, the respective plenipotentiaries of the United

States of America and the empire of Japan aforesaid, have signed and

sealed these presents.

Done at Kanagawa this thirty-first day of March, in the year of our

Lord Jesus Christ one thousand eight hundred and fifty-four, and of

Kayei, the seventh year, third month, and third day.

M. C. PERRY.

“The respective plenipotentiaries” did not sign.

The night before the signing of the treaty, the officials were aboard

of the flag-ship until a very late hour, composing with great care

the various prepared copies of the treaty, as they had been enrolled.

In the Japanese copy they discovered an error in the formation of

one character, which they desired to be altered to prevent as they

said, any misconstruction hereafter. They did not understand the

“ratification” of treaties: with them an obligation once signed,

was full and complete, and they did not see any necessity for any

supplementary action by the contracting parties.

After the signing of the treaty the commodore intimated his purpose

of going up to Yedo and saluting the emperor; if he could not reach

the city in his steamers, he could in the ship’s boats. To this they

objected. They were told if they had objections, they should have

included them in the treaty.

This treaty, it will be seen, is not one of commerce, but of friendship

or amity. It is said that the Japanese had some objection to signing

their copy with the words “Lord Jesus Christ” in it. It was understood,

that Hakodade was not to be visited by the squadron, until fifty days

had elapsed from the date of signing.

The Japanese were desirous of knowing from our fleet-captain, whether

the English and the French were coming up to Japan, when the American

squadron should have left: the answer was, we did not know.

There was something rather mysterious about Yezimon, the little

deputy-governor of Uraga. At the time of our first visit, he took

quite a conspicuous part in all the intercourse, but on our return, it

appears, he had to pale his ineffectual fire before greater luminaries.

Very little was seen of him, indeed, if he was seen at all on our

return. The great familiarity and sociability that he had displayed

when on board of our ships had probably gotten him into trouble. The

officials declined saying anything about him; when he was asked for,

and one of the officers informed them that he had a Colt’s revolver

which he desired to present to Yezimon before leaving, they said they

had rather that it should not be done, and added, that they could not

speak about him.

On the 4th of April, after an absence from the United States of over

four years, the sloop-of-war Saratoga left for home. In her went as

passenger Commander H. A. Adams, captain of the fleet—bearing to the

United States, by way of the Sandwich Islands and the Californian

route, copies of the treaty in English and Japanese, and three copies

in Dutch certified to by A. L. C. Portman, Esq., and Moriyama Yenoske,

intended to be the first intelligence home of the completion of the

treaty. There also went home in her a number of invalid officers who

had undergone the enervation and emaciation produced by the heat and

diseases of an East India climate. As the Saratoga passed out she fired

her parting salute, and was cheered by the remaining ships of the

squadron, the bands playing “Home, Sweet Home!” in a manner that caused

each heart to heave. Every one who thought of the long while she had

been out, wished fair winds to fill her sails, and Heaven speed her!

The interpreter, and others, continued their friendly visits to the

ships, wearing when the weather was bad, a singular rain-cloak called

_meno_, made up of a number of tassels of a kind of mountain fern,

pendent from the junction of meshes knit from the same material, and

having outside a covering of green silk network. They would tell us

in answer to the question “Could we now see the emperor?” “No; too

young man.” They had told us that it would require some days before

they could arrange a bazar at Simoda, where we might be able to

procure specimens of their lacquer-ware, porcelain, &c.; and in the

meantime our surveying-boats, when the weather would permit, were kept

constantly going.

The 10th of April, being the birthday of the commodore, I suppose

he wished to signalize it by a nearer approach to the city of Yedo,

and accordingly early in the morning a signal was thrown out for the

squadron to get under way, which was done, the Mississippi leading

up the bay, and the Powhatan and the sailing ships following, with

the exception of the Lexington, which got aground just as her anchor

was away. This movement being perceived from shore, the Japanese

interpreters Moriyama Yenoske, Hernyama, Gohara, and Namura Gohachiro,

third interpreter, at once rowed off under much excitement. The latter

came aboard of the Mississippi, the others went on board of the

flag-ship; where they ascertained the commodore’s intention of going

higher up the bay, Yenoske objected most strenuously, urging that the

lives of each of the commissioners, and himself, were in danger for

not preventing (?) it, or remonstrating against it; or previously

advising their government; they said they could not tell but it was not

possible to calculate the consequences. In reply, the commodore said

that his instructions from the president were to go up to Yedo, and

that he would have done so, but for the feelings of friendship that he

entertained for the commissioners who preferred Yokohama for holding

the conferences. They gave it to be understood that the anchoring of

the ships off Yedo, would at once require of them the performance of

the “Hari Kari,” or happy despatch—that they would be necessitated to

this, according to a custom which it was no use to argue against, to

save themselves and those related to them from dishonor; and that such

was the case with each of the commissioners.

_Hari Kari_, meaning “happy despatch,” is the act of disembowelling

one’s self with a sword, among the Japanese. The young man, of

any family pretensions, is early indoctrinated in the art of

self-destruction. He is also instructed as to the occasions and

circumstances when this form of suicide is appropriate for a gentleman,

either to preserve himself or those connected with him from dishonor.

It is given him strictly in charge, to remember that the wearing of

the badge of his position—two swords—is also typical of his courage;

perhaps as Napoleon said, that he who cares nothing for his own life is

master of that of others; and that one of these swords, like the dagger

of Brutus, is for himself, when his country shall need his death. He

desires that it shall be said of him, what Malcolm says of Cawdor:—

“Nothing in his life

Became him like the leaving it: he died

As one that had been studied in his death,

To throw away the dearest thing he owed,

As ’twere a careless trifle.”

Or as Decitas said of Anthony:-

“He is dead,

By that self hand,

Which writ his honor in the acts it did.”

[Illustration: _LITH. OF SARONY & Co. NEW YORK._

NEAR YEDO.]

The commodore promised that the two steamers should only go up in

sight of Yedo, and without dropping anchor, return. This quieted their

apprehensions considerably. About twelve o’clock, when we had gotten

a distant view of the great city, the water suddenly shoaled so as to

prevent our further progress, when the boats that had been sounding

ahead were recalled, the steamers put about, and the whole squadron

proceeded directly down the bay to the anchorage off _Nati Sima_, or as

called by us, _Webster_ island, with the exception of the Mississippi

that was sent to the assistance of the Lexington, but that ship having

kedged off, we towed her to where the remaining ships had anchored.

Poor Namura Gohachiro, the third interpreter, who was aboard of us

during the day’s movements, looked the while like a man whose time

had come. He evinced no interest in anything that was going on around

him, and during the day did not look over the side. He complained of

sickness, and Jamaica ginger gave him no relief; he put aside his two

swords, and lay on the cabin sofa; his great inquietude lasted until we

had dropped anchor off Webster island, when he experienced the greatest

relief, going over the side into his boat, which we had towed during

the day, looking like one from around whose neck the halter had been

taken.

The yearly number of those who now commit the Hari Kari, or “happy

despatch,” in Japan, is estimated at four hundred.

The principal cause of the alarm of the Japanese officers, on the

approach of the ships to Yedo, was in some anticipated outbreak on the

part of its rabble, who must comprise a great number in a city of over

fourteen hundred thousand inhabitants. These lazzaroni have more than

once threatened the stability of the government; a huge unmanageable

mob threatening destruction, and deaf to reason; a horrid hydra easily

moved, but controlled only with great power and force. The effect upon

such a population of the novel sight of two large steamers off their

city, who in addition to other engines of destruction, were believed to

have on board steam-guns, can be easily imagined, especially when the

mob never expected to see such a sight again. Then, too, they are more

eager after novelty because of having been kept in ignorance by the

stringent laws against foreigners; and they have been taught that they

are beneath laws.

Such is the intense curiosity of the Japanese character, and the great

rush to gratify it, that at one time, before the signing of the treaty,

there was as many as seventy thousand people from all parts of the

country, congregated in Kanagawa and its immediate vicinity, eager

to get a look at our ships, and endeavoring to get aboard. To furnish

a pretext for their assemblage near the place of negotiations, many

resorted to the ruse of offering their services to the authorities,

in the event of the negotiations with the Americans, taking a hostile

turn. Many of the princes of the empire, anxious to see the ships and

not being able to get permission or authority to do so, resorted to the

plan of getting on board by going disguised in the suite of Moriyama

Yenoske, the chief interpreter. On one occasion—April 4th—a number

of Japanese gentlemen of rank, having obtained permission to visit the

ships, it was surmised, and upon very good authority, that the young

emperor himself had been aboard. His features would probably not be

known to one of his subjects outside of his immediate attendants or

council. The boldness and tact with which they manage _nayboen_ matters

is remarkable. The interpreters were always very cautious, and never

committed themselves by giving information. A great many of the better

class Japanese, who came aboard, were able to write, and sometimes

speak a little Dutch (Holland), and generally expressed themselves with

much correctness.

The next morning, after anchoring off _Nati Sima_, the Macedonian was

despatched to the Bonin islands with some agricultural implements, and

to look after some men, with orders to join us at Simoda.

While our surveying boats were running their line of soundings, and

triangulating in the vicinity of the anchorage, some of the officers,

in other boats, paid visits to Webster island, which afforded a fine

opportunity for exercise, besides being a very pretty view. Before

returning to the ships, we pulled into a number of little inlets and

small bays near by. The hill-sides were well wooded, and the deep green

of the thorough cultivation on terraces and steppes was delightful to

the eye. In some obscure coves, were built stone piers for landing, and

a number of junks had been beached, and their owners were preparing

them, or firing their bottoms, that the sea slime might be removed

and their speed increased. In others, the fronts of large quarries of

sandstone, and what appeared to be fuller’s earth, approach the edge of

the water. The latter was cut away in square blocks, leaving the face

of the hills like the smooth masonry of a curtain-wall and bastion.

On the morning of the 18th of April, the Vandalia and Lexington having

preceded us, the Powhatan and Mississippi steamed slowly out of the

bay of Yedo, running a line of soundings from the ships as we went,

after passing Sagama cape, the two ships stood over in the direction

of Ohosima, that the bearings of that island might be taken, and then

headed off southward and westward, leaving the bay of Kawatsu on our

right hand. The volcano on Ohorima was not in a state of eruption, as

when we passed it three months before. We soon saw Cape Idzoo, and by

three o’clock were up with Rock island, that marks the mouth, and ran

into the harbor of Simoda. This place from having been visited in May,

1849, by the English man-of-war Mariner, our own sailing ships, which

preceded us, were no novelty to the people, but the approach of the

Powhatan and Mississippi running in a straight line through the narrow

entrance, filled the height on either side with a throng, looking for

the first time, and with wonder, on steamships.