Before reaching the bay of Yedo, sounding-spars had been rigged out
from the end of the bowsprit of each steamer, from which depended
sounding-leads, that were kept constantly going as well as the leadsmen
in the “chains.” As previous knowledge of the water was rather
defective, the ships proceeded in with caution. The sweep of the bay is
a noble one, as you approach, and the morning being a clear and lovely
one, every object, from the strange-looking crafts coming continually
in sight, to the summits of the high shores, and bold bluffs, were
sharply defined. Then too, simultaneously with our first sight of
the _nolli me tangere_, we got our first sight of _the_ mountain of
Japan—_Foogee Yama_.
Perhaps the incidents which transpired during our first short visit to
Japan, can be better conveyed by giving them as jotted down at the time.
_July 8._—Ship cleared for action; fore and bow-rails and iron
stancheons taken down and stowed away; ports let down, guns
run out into position and shotted. Flag-ship made signal,
“Have no communication with shore; allow none from shore.” Nine
o’clock—standing up the outer bay of Yedo; a number of Japanese junks
in sight. Smaller boats, in considerable numbers, making for the
ships, and crossing their bows; but the sight of the revolving-wheels
makes them haul up, and they give us a wide berth as we hold our way
past them. To those in the boats who never before saw a steamship,
particularly two large war-steamers, towing sloops-of-war through the
water at a fast rate, how wonderful must be the sight! As the ships
approached the town of Uragawa, or Uraga (about three o’clock), a fort,
situated on a high hill, sent up a shell high into the air; and in
a little while after we heard the explosion of another. As they did
not appear to be aimed at us, but probably intended as signals, or to
warn us not to come to anchor in their bay, we kept on. A few moments
after stopping our wheels, long sharp-built boats of pine, fastened
with copper, and ornamented at the prow with a black tassel, that had
not been previously observed under the shadow of a high bluff, swarmed
off under oar and sail, and surrounded the ships. They were all fully
manned with men in uniform, and an old chap leaned over a rail in the
stern. One of the boats that reached us first, contained a mandarin
with two swords, who shook a letter at us, and then attempted to
board us on the port bow, but the presentation of a loaded musket, by
a sentinel, made him think a little while about it. He became much
enraged, turned almost white with anger, his crew keeping up the while
an awful pow-wow and noise; and, with them, he tries to board again,
where our rail was down, but a division of pikes staring them in the
face, and a steamer’s wheels kept revolving (rather ugly things for a
boat to get under), made them adjourn their determination. Drifting
aft to our port-gangway and finding the prospect no better, he put
off for shore, pointing to, and motioning that we must not let go our
anchor, drawing and sheathing his swords, and holding up a letter.
(One of these letters was thrown aboard of the Plymouth, written in
French and Dutch, warning us, if we anchored there, we did it at our
“peril.”) But our ships went in under their guns and let go their
anchors, forming a line broadside to shore, as previously ordered by
diagram from Commodore Perry. Boats continued to circle around us, the
occupants of some of them appearing to be making drawings of us, but
they took care to keep at a respectable distance. In the evening, the
lieutenant-governor of the province, Kayama Yesaimon, came off in a
boat with streamers, and his rank being announced, he was allowed to
come on board the flag-ship. The commodore would not receive him, but
turned him over to his flag-lieutenant. In the meantime they commenced
the formation of a cordon of boats around the ships. The Japanese
functionary was first asked why this was being done. He said it was
Japanese “custom.” He was at once told that it was an _American_
“custom” not to allow any such thing; that these boats must be sent
away, not only from the flag, but the other ships; and if not away in
fifteen minutes, they would be fired into. The boats left for shore.
The governor wished to know what these ships had come there for. He was
told that our commodore had a letter from our chief magistrate to his
emperor. He said that their laws would only allow them to receive the
letter at Nangasaki; that he would inform the authorities at Yedo of
the arrival of the ships and of the letter; and that it would be four
days before any answer could be received. The commodore directed it to
be told him that he would wait three days and a half, and if, at the
end of that time, there was not some one to receive our president’s
letter, that with five hundred men he would land, and deliver the
letter himself. The governor then went ashore. In the evening the
steam-chimney was ordered to be kept protected; no coal to be taken
from the bunkers so as to expose the engines; steam to be kept up, and
every suitable person on board ship directed to stand strict guard
during the night, armed with cutlass, carbine, &c., and blue and red
signal lights agreed upon between the ships, to be hoisted upon the
appearance of any burning junks sent down upon us, or other danger
during the night.
_July 9._—Still at anchor off the harbor and town of Uraga, each
ship with springs on her cable. Uraga is the seaport of Yedo, and
said to contain twenty thousand inhabitants. Innumerable junks, with
white-laced sails, have been continually arriving and departing since
we have been here, having to be examined by officers of the customs,
both going up and coming down. We can only see a portion of the town,
the remainder being shut in by the narrow entrance to its harbor.
During my mid-watch, last night, the Japanese ashore were striking,
at intervals, a sweet and deep-toned bell, probably as a tocsin;
while from the stern of each of the immense number of boats, anchored
side by side, in shore, shone bright lights through lanterns of every
color, making one long necklace of light, in front of the town of
Humai, situated in the midst of forts and water-batteries. At sunrise,
through a spy-glass could be discerned a number of fortifications along
shore, extending up to a point which marks the entrance to the inner
bay. There was also visible a number of long striped-cloth curtains,
containing armorial figures of the different princes of the empire,
the encampment of whose soldiers they are designed to mark out. The
soldiers, like those previously seen in the boats, wear loose sacks of
red, green, or blue, unconfined in front, and having in white on their
backs the insignia of the prince whom they serve. There was a great
deal of marching and countermarching, with gay banners, &c., between
the different forts. The calibre of the guns in the embrasures, could
not be made out, being kept under cover, or, as the sailors say, in
“petticoats.” On a very well-designed fort, circular in plan, intended
to protect the entrance to the harbor of Uraga, were a number of the
natives at work. About nine o’clock, boats well-armed were sent from
each ship, with lead-lines, to ascertain the depth of water between
the ships and the shore. These boats pulled as high as the upper fort,
where the uppermost one was surrounded by Japanese guard-boats, who
ordered them back, but did not attempt anything else, some of our oars
being trailed, and the curtains over the muskets raised up for their
edification. Our boats paid no further attention to them, but continued
to stand in and pull close down the shore, getting soundings as they
went, and at the same time making a rather bold reconnoissance of their
guns and forts, who did not fire upon them, as many watching from the
ships, at one time thought they would do.
_July 10_—SUNDAY.—A number of boats came off and rowed around the
ship; troops, apparently, collecting on shore. Japanese at work on a
fort just opposite to us. Weather clear. The steep shores, well-wooded,
looking fine as they are brightened by the sun-light. Evening—A whale
blowed not far from the ship. Foogee Yama obscured by cloud. During the
day, the capstan having been dressed as usual, and books distributed,
the chaplain gave out the hymn, commencing commencing—
“Before Jehovah’s awful throne,
Ye nations, bow with sacred joy,”
and with the aid of many of the fine voices of the crew, and the
assistance of the bass instruments of the band, in sight of heathen
temples, and, perhaps, in the hearing of their worshippers, swelled up
“Old Hundred” like a deep diapason of old ocean.
_July 11._—By order of the commodore, the Mississippi was ordered to
get under way, and stood up the straits, following slowly after our
boats sent to sound the inner bay, to ascertain the practicability of
reaching the capital, our present anchorage being twenty-five miles
from the city of Yedo. Passed close in under the chief fort, on the
point beyond which no “barbarian” ship had ever been permitted to go.
Fort did not fire. On debouching we entered a magnificent bay, of great
extent, bounded on its western side by picturesque slopes, bold bluffs,
with here and there a village between them, deeply indented coves,
and a well-wooded island, crowned with a three-gun battery, which
on our survey chart was called “Perry island.” Our boats continued
to sound ahead during the day, the Japanese guard-boats enveloping
them and attempting to impede their progress by getting across their
track, but attempted nothing further. Two little brass howitzers, on
each of our forward guards, loaded with grape and cannister, would
probably have caused some dancing among them if they had. On the east
of us, on a long low sand beach, through a spy-glass could be seen an
encampment of Japanese troops, near a breastwork, dressed in black
figured clothes, and surmounted with banners. This was probably an
“army of observation.” We continued to hold our way up the bay until
a late hour, as far as a high bluff of clay-stone, which was named
“Mississippi bluff,” as a token that it was nearer to the palace of
the ziogoon of Japan than any foreign ship had ventured to go before.
Our boats were then taken in tow, and we started on our return to the
anchorage we had left in the morning. A two-sworded mandarin attempted
to make his boat fast to one of our boats astern, that he might get
a tow back, and I was surprised to hear him ask in English, “Are you
going back?” The sailors in the boats were ordered to cut his line if
he made fast to them. He was much angered as our wheels left him in the
distance. We regarded his proposition for a tow, as cool as a fellow
who would play spy on you all day, and then ask you to take him home in
a carriage at night. On our way back we passed through a flotilla of
their boats, when our chief engineer opened our steam-whistle. Never
were human beings more astounded, when the unearthly noise reached
their ears, the fellows at the sculls dropped their oars and stood
aghast. To all of the day’s doings the inhabitants of the different
towns, and the troops strung along shore, have been constant and
watchful observers. They could not understand what our movements meant.
Jonathan’s boldness had dumbfounded them.
_July 12._—Governor of Uraga came aboard and urged Nangasaki as the
proper place at which Japan could receive foreign communications.
Commodore Perry replied that his government had sent him to _Yedo_,
and that he would go nowhere else to deliver his letter. The Japanese
officials then pretended to hold a conference ashore, and afterward
brought off word that they would receive the letter at a point which
they would make known. It was afterward arranged that the reception
of the letter was to be by a high officer, sent from the capital for
the especial purpose; the place, a bay below the town of Uraga, and
that it would take two days for them to get up a building for the
ceremony. They said they had selected this spot for its privacy,
that their rabble population might not be present; and as the whole
thing was without precedent with them, and against their laws;—also,
probably, because they did not wish us to get a sight of their towns,
or a nearer view of their forts. The governor and his two interpreters
at this interview remained aboard some time, and were very observant
of everything, and evinced more information than could have been
expected. The engine-room astonished them, though with Japanese
self-possession they concealed much. They laughed, and were untiring
in their attention to cherry brandy. On being shown a daguerreotype,
they immediately called its name. On a globe they pointed out Boston,
New York, Philadelphia, New Orleans, &c.; gave the boundaries of
Mexico, and said our country had a part of Mexico; if our mission was
a peaceful one, why did we have _four_ ships-of-war to bring _one_
letter? (Commodore told them that it was a greater compliment to their
emperor—probably!) Wished to know why the steam-vessel “Mississippi”
went up the inner bay so far? It was replied that the commodore had
more ships in these waters, and if they should render it necessary that
they would all come with him, the next time he came; he desired an
anchorage less exposed than the one we were then lying at.
_July 13._—Some little suspicion of treachery ashore; much conference
going on among chief mandarins. Boats were sent from the ships to go
and sound off the mouth of the appointed place, to see whether any
of the ships could get in sufficiently near to cover and protect the
landing of the boats; orders issued prescribing who were to compose the
landing party; some will have to stay on board the ships; poor fellows!
Bad day for Japanese to-morrow, if they attempt with us the treacherous
game that they played upon Golownin:—
“_The Americans must not quit their wooden walls._”—LONDON PRESS.
_July 14._—Bright and beautiful day. Much activity and preparation for
the landing; boats being lowered away, percussion-caps distributed,
and twenty rounds of ball-cartridges delivered to each man; officers
rigging in undress uniforms, and arming mostly with cutlasses and
Colt’s six-shooters. Quartermasters fastening American ensigns on
pikes. General orders received early in the morning. The Susquehanna
and Mississippi will anchor in the position assigned them. The Plymouth
will retain her present position, and the Saratoga to get into her
berth if possible, but not to get out of range of the forts and town.
The ships will watch the proceedings on shore, having their guns primed
and pointed, and their remaining boats alongside, with arms in them,
ready in a moment to shove ashore, if the commanding officers think
there is need of them. The boats which carry the officers, sailors,
and marines on shore, are all to have anchors, and after landing their
respective crews, are to haul off about fifty feet from shore and
anchor, keeping their men at their arms and watching the proceedings on
shore, and if they are called on shore the officers of the boats will
land with all but two men, who are to be left as boat-keepers; bread
and water in the boats. At daybreak the Susquehanna and Mississippi
steam-frigates tripped their anchors, dropped down, and anchored
immediately across the entrance of the bay where we were to land, to
protect and cover the landing, having springs on their cables, that
their broadside of guns might be trained on the shore. The sloop-of-war
Plymouth commanded the town of Uraga, and the Saratoga, that of Humai,
and the forts surrounding it. At nine o’clock, our boats armed and
manned, went alongside of the flag-ship, where were the boats of the
Saratoga and Plymouth. After some delay the boats moved ashore. The
captain of the Susquehanna and officers, leading; Captain Walker of the
Saratoga and officers next, then the Mississippi’s boats, in the first
of which I was, under Lieutenant Taylor. Following in line came the
remaining boats of all the ships, with sailors, marines, two bands, &c.
The place selected by the Japanese for the delivery of the letter,
was a bay of some mile and a quarter in depth, surrounded by an
amphitheatre of bold hills, its entrance being narrow, and defended
by forts on either side. At the head of this bay, following the line
of a crescent beach of black and white sand, ankle-deep, is the town
of Gorihama. In the distance, with its veil of blue, and patches of
snow, towering up fifteen thousand feet, shone the extinct volcano
of Foogee. The boats, as they pulled in, presented a fine sight; the
“flower-flag,” as the Chinese call it, waving gracefully from the
stern of each boat; the bright muskets shining in the sun, and the
epaulettes glistening. The landing was done in fine order, and with
great promptitude, under the command of Major Zeilen, of the marine
corps. Each man, as the boat touched the beach, jumped ashore, and
took his proper place in line, which, when formed, presented a bold
front, notwithstanding officers and men all told, it scarcely exceeded
four hundred men; and encircling them a few paces in rear, and as far
as one could see, on either hand, in horse-shoe form, were Japanese
troops, who had been collected there for the occasion, armed with
spears and bows, long bayonet brass-mounted muskets, and matchlocks,
with ready fuses, coiled on their right arms. In their front,
equi-distant, sat their officers on stools, armed with two swords. Near
by, not very large, were a number of horses richly caparisoned about
the head, and with gaudy housings, belonging to the officers. Extending
all around were canvass curtains supported by stakes driven in the
ground, with different insignias painted on the front, and festooned
with blue cords and tassels; at the termination of each one floated the
colored flag of each particular prince, whose men were present. The
shining and gilded lacquered broadbrims of the Japanese; the varied
costumes, brilliant colors, flapping flags, and curtain enclosures, all
overhung by a dense green of trees, as the eye took them in, made one
think that he had come to be a spectator of some joust or tourney. The
Japanese say they had five thousand men present, but I hardly think
there were as many, unless some were hid in the town, whose houses in
our direction were concealed behind temporary walls of thatching straw.
A salute of thirteen guns from the flag-ship, which caused some little
stir among the Japanese troops, who did not seem exactly to understand
it, announced that the commodore and his immediate suite had left,
in his barge, for shore. In a little while he landed on a small
jutty, made of rice-straw and sand, passing through a street formed
of his own officers, to his place in line, when the squadron band
struck up “Hail Columbia” in a style, and with a force that made the
Japanese open their ears (they may have to listen to it again), and
the hills around sent each note of “Hail Columbia” back again. “Hail
Columbia” never sounded better. The column of escort with the marines
in front, a stalwart sailor with the broad pennant; commodore and
staff; suite of officers; boxes containing president’s letter, &c.; two
men over six feet high, each, with pikes upon which American ensigns
were fastened, with revolving rifles slung across their shoulders;
sailors with bronzed muskets; Mississippi’s band, &c.; and marines
then marched to the building for the ceremony; shown the way by two
Japanese officials. The sailors were in blue trousers and white frocks,
prettily bisected with the slings of their cartridge boxes, and wore
blue cloth caps, with bands of red, white, and blue, ornamented with
thirteen stars in white. The marines were in full uniform. The room
of ceremony was reached by passing through a small canopied court;
enclosed with primitive landscape screens, the floor of which was
covered with matting. The place of audience was a room in a thatched
building, limited in space, and entirely open in the direction of the
court, ornamented with gauze curtains as drapery. At the back of
the room were representations of shrubbery, and of cranes wheeling
in flight over it, while on the two remaining sides, were hung large
blue flags, having in the centre one large and eight smaller satellite
representations. Overhead you looked up to thatching, and each rafter
was marked with Japanese characters, as if the building had been
originally constructed at some other place, probably at Yedo, and sent
down for erection. On the left of the room as you entered by ascending
one step, was seated the chief Japanese functionary, appointed by the
emperor to receive the president’s letter, the prince of Idzoo; beside
him was the prince of the province of Iwami; behind him quite a number
of two-sworded mandarins. The chief man was attired in a maroon silk
robe, with an over-garment of red, blue cloth socks, with places left
for the great toe. On the back of the red over-garment, were figures
worked in white, some resembling cornucopias. His suite were attired in
the same manner with slight exceptions. On the other side of the room
were placed ornamental chairs, with well-designed arm-rests, in which
were seated Commodore Perry and suite.
Dr. Williams, of Canton, was present as interpreter of the Japanese
language; although his services were not called into requisition. Mr.
A. L. C. Portman, the commodore’s clerk, as it was most agreeable to
the Japanese, acted as interpreter in the Dutch language. The floor
of the chamber was covered with mats, having spread over them in the
centre of the room, cloths resembling red felt blankets, indifferently
dyed. After the manner of the Japanese, two interpreters were in
attendance on the prince, one of them squatted on the floor near our
interpreter, partially facing the chief and another (Kayama Yesaimon,
governor of Uraga) on his haunches immediately in front of him. Midway,
in rear of the room, was placed a brightly-lacquered red chest,
resting upon eight feet, with its deep and projecting lid, confined by
tasselled cords of blue. The gilt ornamental design in front resembled
the rose of the Gothic style. The officers of the ships occupied the
court facing the platform.
Everything being announced ready, and obeisance interchanged between
the prince and commodore, beautiful rosewood-boxes, hinged, clamped,
and clasped with gold, having inscriptions with German-text letters,
let in with gold on their tops, which had been carried by side-boys,
were then brought in, and displayed upon the chest. Mr. Portman opened
them to assure the Japanese of the presence of the letters; and the
interpreter was directed to inform the prince, which was done, one
interpreter whispering to the other, that in the boxes were also
translations of our president’s letter, in Dutch and Chinese. The
credentials from the emperor empowering the prince of Idzoo to receive
the letter, were then handed over by the prince, and taken charge of
by the flag-lieutenant, having been duly examined the day before on
shipboard. The letter of the president was as follows:—
_MILLARD FILLMORE_,
PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA,
TO HIS IMPERIAL MAJESTY,
_THE EMPEROR OF JAPAN_.
_Great and Good Friend!_
I send you this public letter by Commodore Matthew C. Perry, and
officer of highest rank in the Navy of the United States, and
commander of the squadron now visiting your Imperial Majesty’s
dominions.
I have directed Commodore Perry to assure your Imperial Majesty that
I entertain the kindest feelings toward your Majesty’s person and
government; and that I have no other object in sending him to Japan,
but to propose to your Imperial Majesty that the United States and
Japan should live in friendship, and have commercial intercourse with
each other.
The constitution and laws of the United States forbid all interference
with the religious or political concerns of other nations. I have
particularly charged Commodore Perry to abstain from every act which
could possibly disturb the tranquillity of your Imperial Majesty’s
dominions.
The United States of America reach from ocean to ocean, and our
territory of Oregon and state of California lie directly opposite to
the dominions of your Imperial Majesty. Our steamships can go from
California to Japan in eighteen days.
Our great state of California produces about sixty millions of dollars
in gold, every year, besides silver, quicksilver, precious stones,
and many other valuable articles. Japan is also a rich and fertile
country, and produces many very valuable articles. Your Imperial
Majesty’s subjects are skilled in many of the arts. I am desirous that
our two countries should trade with each other, for the benefit both
of Japan and the United States.
We know that the ancient laws of your Imperial Majesty’s government do
not allow of foreign trade except with the Dutch. But as the state of
the world changes, and new governments are formed, it seems to be wise
from time to time to make new laws. There was a time when the ancient
laws of your Imperial Majesty’s government were first made.
About the same time, America, which is sometimes called the New World,
was first discovered and settled by the Europeans. For a long time
there were but a few people, and they were poor. They have now become
quite numerous; their commerce is very extensive; and they think that
if your Imperial Majesty were so far to change the ancient laws as to
allow a free trade between the two countries, it would be extremely
beneficial to both.
If your Imperial Majesty is not satisfied that it would be safe,
altogether, to abrogate the ancient laws which forbid foreign trade,
they might be suspended for five or ten years, so as to try the
experiment. If it does not prove as beneficial as was hoped, the
ancient laws can be restored. The United States often limit their
treaties with foreign states to a few years, and then renew them or
not, as they please.
I have directed Commodore Perry to mention another thing to your
Imperial Majesty. Many of our ships pass every year from California to
China; and great numbers of our people pursue the whale fishery near
the shores of Japan. It sometimes happens in stormy weather that one
of our ships is wrecked on your Imperial Majesty’s shores. In all such
cases we ask and expect, that our unfortunate people should be treated
with kindness, and that their property should be protected, till we
can send a vessel and bring them away. We are very much in earnest in
this.
Commodore Perry is also directed by me to represent to your Imperial
Majesty that we understand there is a great abundance of coal and
provisions in the empire of Japan. Our steamships, in crossing the
great ocean, burn a great deal of coal, and it is not convenient to
bring it all the way from America. We wish that our steamships and
other vessels should be allowed to stop in Japan and supply themselves
with coal, provisions, and water. They will pay for them, in money,
or anything else your Imperial Majesty’s subjects may prefer; and we
request your Imperial Majesty to appoint a convenient port in the
southern part of the empire, where our vessels may stop for this
purpose. We are very desirous of this.
These are the only objects for which I have sent Commodore Perry with
a powerful squadron to pay a visit to your Imperial Majesty’s renowned
city of Yedo: friendship, commerce, a supply of coal, and provisions
and protection for our shipwrecked people.
We have directed Commodore Perry to beg your Imperial Majesty’s
acceptance of a few presents. They are of no great value in
themselves, but some of them may serve as specimens of the articles
manufactured in the United States, and they are intended as tokens of
our sincere and respectful friendship.
May the Almighty have your Imperial Majesty in his great and holy
keeping!
In witness whereof I have caused the great seal of the United States
to be hereunto affixed, and have subscribed the same with my name,
at the city of Washington in America, the seat of my government, on
the thirteenth day of the month of November, in the year one thousand
eight hundred and fifty-two.
_Your Good Friend_,
MILLARD FILLMORE.
_By the President._
EDWARD EVERETT,
_Secretary of State_.
Accompanying this letter was one from Commodore Perry, merely repeating
the language embraced in the instructions from the secretary of state:—
TO HIS IMPERIAL MAJESTY,
_THE EMPEROR OF JAPAN_.
The undersigned, Commander-in-chief of all the naval forces of the
United States of North America, stationed in the East India, China,
and Japan seas, has been sent by his government to this country on a
friendly mission, with ample powers to negotiate with the government
of Japan, touching certain matters which have been fully set forth in
the letter of the President of the United States; copies of which,
together with copies of the letter of credence of the undersigned, in
the English, Dutch, and Chinese languages, are herewith transmitted.
The original of the President’s letter, and of the letter of credence,
prepared in a manner suited to the exalted station of your Imperial
Majesty, will be presented by the undersigned, in person, when it may
please your Majesty to appoint a day for his reception.
The undersigned has been commanded to state that the President
entertains the most friendly feelings toward Japan, but has been
surprised and grieved to learn that when any of the people of the
United States go of their own accord, or are thrown by the perils
of the sea, within the dominions of your Imperial Majesty, they are
treated as if they were your worst enemies. The undersigned refers to
the cases of the American ships ‘Morrison,’‘Ladoga,’ and ‘Lawrence.’
With the Americans, as indeed with all Christian people, it is
considered a sacred duty to receive with kindness, and to succor and
protect all, of whatever nation, who may be cast upon their shores;
and such has been the course of the Americans, with respect to all
Japanese subjects who have fallen under their protection.
The government of the United States desires to obtain from that of
Japan, some positive assurance that persons who may be hereafter
shipwrecked on the coast of Japan, or driven by stress of weather into
her ports, shall be treated with humanity.
The undersigned is commanded to explain to the Japanese that the
United States are connected with no government in Europe, and that
their laws do not interfere with the religion of their own citizens,
much less with that of other nations.
That they inhabit a great country which lies directly between Japan
and Europe, and which was discovered by the nations of Europe about
the same time that Japan herself was first visited by Europeans;
that the portion of the American continent lying nearest to Europe,
was first settled by emigrants from that part of the world; that its
population has rapidly spread through the country until it has reached
the shores of the Pacific ocean; that we have now large cities, from
which, with the aid of steam-vessels, we can reach Japan in eighteen
or twenty days; that our commerce with all this region of the globe is
rapidly increasing, and the Japanese seas will soon be covered with
our vessels.
Therefore as the United States and Japan are becoming every day
nearer and nearer to each other, the President desires to live in
peace and friendship with your Imperial Majesty; but no friendship can
long exist unless Japan ceases to act toward Americans as if they were
her enemies.
However wise this policy may originally have been, it is unwise and
impracticable, now that the intercourse between the two countries is
so much more easy and rapid than it formerly was.
The undersigned holds out all these arguments, in the hope that the
Japanese government will see the necessity of averting unfriendly
collision between the two nations, by responding favorably to the
propositions of amity, which are now made in all sincerity.
Many of the large ships-of-war destined to visit Japan, have not
yet arrived in these seas, though they are hourly expected; and the
undersigned, as an evidence of his friendly intentions, has brought
but four of the smaller ones, designing, should it become necessary,
to return to Yedo in the ensuing spring, with a much larger force.
But it is expected that the government of your Imperial Majesty
will render such return unnecessary by acceding at once to the very
reasonable and pacific overtures contained in the President’s letter,
and which will be further explained by the undersigned on the first
fitting occasion.
With the most profound respect for your Imperial Majesty, and
entertaining a sincere hope that you may long live to enjoy health and
happiness, the undersigned subscribes himself,
(_Signed_) M. C. PERRY,
_Commander-in-chief of the United States Naval Forces
in the East India, China, and Japan seas._
U. S. Steam-Frigate Susquehanna,
Off the coast of Japan, July 7, 1853.
A brief pause followed the delivery of the letters, the Japanese
appearing dispirited, and their prince as if the day’s doings might
result to him in being compelled to perform the “Happy Despatch” of
his country; the commodore directed the interpreter to say, that as
it would take some time to deliberate on the letter of the president,
he should not wait for an answer, but would return in the spring; that
he would leave in a few days for Canton, by way of the great Loo-Choo
island, and would be happy to take any commands they might have. Owing
to our pronunciation of the word “Loo-Choo,” perhaps, they did not
seem to understand the latter part of this. The interpreter was then
directed to tell them, that China was now in a state of revolution;
that the rebels had taken Nanking, Ningpo, Amoy, and Cheang-foo. The
Japanese interpreter, apparently for himself, asked what was the
cause of the revolution. The commodore commenced a reply by saying,
“Religion,” then correcting himself, said “Dissatisfaction with the
government on the part of the people.” The interpreter reflected
awhile, and then said he could not say anything to his prince about
revolutions, but could only speak about the letter. The governor of
Uraga then rose, placed the president’s letter in the lacquered chest,
and tied the cords; then, turning, bowed very low, intimating that the
audience was concluded; the prince rising and saluting as we retired.
The column of escort then reformed, and returned to the beach where we
landed, in the same order in which we had come, passing down the front
of the line of Japanese soldiers, many a scowling fellow meanwhile
looking daggers at us; and their officers, affecting an indifference
to the scene, which they could not have felt, perhaps thinking how
agreeable a thing it would be, to hold one of those Americans on the
end of one of their blades, as a fork, and hack him with the other as a
knife; if they only dared to try. So closed the day that is to mark the
opening of Japan to the world. America has said, “Open, sesame!”
I said to Major Zeilen, of the marine corps (a fine old soldier),
the day before we landed, “Well, major, they have our cages ashore?”
“No, sir; no caging to-morrow,” said he, “it will be fight to the
death!” Our men marched past the Japanese troops with the greatest
indifference, making such remarks as, “Jack, give us a chaw of
tobacco.” “Robinson,” said the officer of the deck to a six-foot
quartermaster who was to carry an American ensign, “don’t you let them
take that away from you, to-day.” Robinson said, “Well, sir, they may
do it, but the man who takes it _won’t be able to carry it after_ he
gets it.”
In the afternoon, of the day of the landing, the steamers got underway,
passed the point or “Rubicon Fort,” as it was named, and went into
anchorage in the inner bay, which had been sounded out by boats under
cover of the Mississippi, three days before. In doing so we got the
best view of the line of fortifications, which extend from a point on
the western side, marking the narrowest part of the outer, or entrance
to the inner bay, down to the city of Uraga. The first fort, built
very well, was a kind of curtain-wall with four embrasures, fronted
by an artificial plateau sloping to the water’s edge, and protected
in the rear by a deep triangular excavation in high sandstone, whose
sides sloped to the area below, and must have been made after much
labor. This contained a barrack building, and the entrance was by a
narrow “grotto pausilipo,” cut through a hill behind. Next, in a small
indentation in the shore, was a circular fort, not very extensive,
containing houses for troops, and having guns in barbette. The third
was on a small circular promontory of some size. The space fortified
was mostly occupied by a steep wedge-shaped hill, and was pierced for
four guns. The fourth, divided from the third by a small town, as the
third was divided from the second, was a rampart of earth and masonry,
with a parapet, built across a narrow gorge, surmounted by a high
hill with a small crown-battery, from which the shells were fired on
our arrival. The principal and best fort, of some dimension, not yet
completed, was situated on the north side of the entrance to the harbor
of Uraga. This battery was placed some eighty feet above the water,
the Japanese having no doubt learned, from their Dutch _confreres_,
that during a calm, at this elevation, they might, by a ricochet-shot,
reach the ships of an enemy even seven hundred yards distant. They had
also cut into perpendicular steps the ground between this fort and the
water, that shot may be stopped in ricochet firing, and their effect
lessened if not destroyed. There were no crown batteries visible. Their
guns were under cover, and their calibre could not be ascertained,
but it is doubtful whether they were of the calibre to render harbor
defences efficient.
As soon as the tide served, after our anchoring in the inner bay, the
Saratoga and Plymouth got underway, stood up and joined us.
The next day the commodore came aboard of the Mississippi, when his
broad-pennant was hoisted, the anchor hove up, and with boats ahead
to make soundings, we stood up the bay, running nearer to the great
capital of the empire than ship of any foreigner had gone before.
The Japanese troops on shore kept watch on our movements, and their
guard-boats rowed up in company with ours, but did not attempt to
impede or molest them. Having gone up and made soundings, and a
reconnoissance, until the water began to shoal, we put the ship about
and returned to where we had left the Susquehanna. In the evening a
Japanese functionary who had been looking with much solicitude upon our
movements, went on board of the flag-ship, and said, “He hoped we would
not attempt to go up their bay any farther, if we did there would be
trouble.” He was told that if it became necessary to bring our whole
squadron into their waters, that it was necessary that the ships should
have a less exposed anchorage than the one we had occupied off Uraga,
and the only way that such an anchorage could be found out, was by
surveys and soundings.
On the 16th boats were sent down to survey and ascertain the depth of
water in the cove which opens on the left hand just after entering the
inner bay in which is situated the Saru-Sima, by some called “Perry
island.” The steamers followed during the day down to this anchorage,
but the wind proving light and baffling, the sailing ships did not
get there until evening, one of them meanwhile having drifted afoul
of the other, on having to come suddenly to anchor, and carrying away
a flying-jib boom. Here, before dusk, a Japanese official, who spoke
Dutch, brought off as presents game-fowls which had beautiful plumage,
lacquered-ware, some of their small pipes and mild tobacco, and brocade
interwoven with gold thread. These were refused until they consented to
receive presents in return. They would not give one of their blades nor
receive one of our swords; such an exchange did not indicate friendship
according to their ideas, nor was the parting with any Japanese arms
allowed by their laws. They expressed great desire to know when we
should leave, and manifested much solicitude and anxiety about our
remaining. This curiosity was not gratified.
We had now been in their waters about eight days, during which we
had only one opportunity of noticing things and people, near by on
shore, and then for not a very long time. But what we had been able
to observe, assured us that the Japanese were a superior race, though
they might belong to the same variety of the human family as their
pig-tail neighbors. Their complexions were better, their features
more regular, they had not a great obliquity of eye; their manners
were more collected and impressive, their bearing more dignified,
their costume less sacerdotal; and their crowns, instead of displaying
a patch of hair the size of a dinner-plate behind, with a pendent
plait, were shaven in an oval on the top, around which the hair was
brushed perpendicularly, and pomatumed, terminating in a tie, from
which the united ends, adhering together with the pomatum, laid like
a cheroot-cigar in form, the end pointing to the brow, in the centre
of the place that the razor has denuded. They look like the literary
gentlemen whose bald heads cause their foreheads to run back nearly
to their coat-collar. Certain it is that they can hardly be deemed
descendants of the son of Manoah, of whom it was prophesied—“_and no
razor shall come on his head_.”
Their boats were sharp, and by the continued action of the
sculls—instead of rowing on their sides—were impelled with greater
speed than the boats of the celestials; while the nice bows to their
junks indicated great superiority, and the single white canvass sail,
stretched by a yard from their enormous mast, was far more pleasant to
the eye and sensible than the dingy mat-sail of the Chinaman. Their
plan of reducing sail is singular: instead of lessening the hoist of
the sail as other nations do, as in reefing, they reduce the width of
their sail by unlacing a cloth from either side. We did not on this
visit get in the vicinity of the large capital but could form some idea
of its consumption by the immense number of coasting-junks for ever
going up and returning, keeping white the bay, with their singular
sails, in centre of which black characters told the district they were
from, or it was indicated by strips of black cloth hanging on either
end of the yard. It was soon apparent, and the Japanese were no doubt
aware that we knew it, that if it should become necessary to resort to
offensive measures, that the blockading of the custom-port of Uraga,
and the stoppage of the passage of their junks with their supplies to
the immense city, would make them very effective. Their forts would not
have been able to have raised the blockade; we could have kept out of
the reach of their guns, and peppered them with the long range of our
own.
On Sunday morning, July 17, at daybreak, we lifted anchor, and the
Susquehanna with the Saratoga in tow, and the Mississippi towing the
Plymouth, we proceeded down the outer bay, and left for a time the
waters of Japan, numbers on shore and the troops on the parapets of the
forts of Kami Saki looking at us, and apparently much pleased with the
movement. This time we kept down the opposite side of the bay from the
one by which we had arrived, and by eleven o’clock we were abreast of
Misaki Awa, or the southernmost point of the bay on the east, off which
we noticed swimming a number of seals. The natives in the small boats,
having gotten more confidence, on our approach, pulled as near to us
as the revolving-wheel would permit them. We ran in sight of the large
volcanic island, named on the Dutch charts as Vries, but called Oho
Sima, or Bird island, by the Japanese. Evening saw us threading our way
through a group of islands, whose barren surfaces presented a desolate
sight. One of them was Fatisisio, the penal settlement or Botany Bay of
Japan.
On the 18th a man fell overboard from the Plymouth, but by cutting
away, promptly, a life-buoy which he struck out for and reached, and
promptly lowering away a boat, he was saved. I could not but recollect
that there was a man overboard from the same ship the day before, but
under different circumstances, as was told by the half-raised ensigns
at the peaks of the four ships. Poor Jack had died after we had gotten
to sea, and the ocean which had been his home during life, before
nightfall was to cover him with its waves. The boatswain’s call was not
“Heave-to,” as to-day, but piped, which was echoed through the ship by
each of his mates, “All hands bury the dead” and as the sun went down,
with two of the iron messengers, which he had been proud to have hurled
at the enemies of the star-flag, tied to his feet, and wrapped in the
hammock in which with stormy lullaby he had often swung, and swinging,
dreamed of home and its endearments, poor Jack was launched into the
sea, and soon sank “deeper than ever plummet sounded.”
The next day we encountered a heavy swell and a stiff breeze, it then
became squally, and there was every indication about the horizon of
bad weather approaching. As it was getting quite rough, and there
being danger of parting the towing-hawsers, the sloops-of-war were
cast off from the steamers, the Saratoga being signaled to make the
best of her way to Shanghae, and the Plymouth to proceed to our next
place of rendezvous—Loo-Choo. By meridian of the 20th we had a strong
gale of wind on us; top-gallant masts were sent down, top-masts
housed, and storm-sails bent. At three o’clock the ship pitched
away her head-sounding spars, springing the bowsprit in the cap;
but the wreck of the spars was gotten on board, so as to give us no
trouble by becoming entangled in our wheels. The Susquehanna lost her
sounding-spars also, or cut them away.
At night the sea having increased, both steamers having burnt out
a considerable portion of their coal, rolled deeply and heavily.
We lost, by being filled with the sea, the captain’s gig from our
stern-davits,—one of the prettiest and fastest boats in the squadron.
The next morning, from the port wheel-house a handsome whale-boat was
washed away with oars, sails, mast, and breaker. By mid-day it became
apparent, that we were in a cyclone, or revolving-gale, and both ships
were “wore” to stand out of it. On the 23d the gale having moderated,
though the barometer still continued low, we proceeded on our course.
This being the first very ugly weather that we had had since leaving
home, landsmen had a fine opportunity of enjoying the comforts of a
gale of wind—such as holding on to your basin with one hand, and
performing the ablution with the other; waking up in the morning,
with your shoes floating about, underneath your cot: at breakfast,
the delight of a sticky, salty atmosphere is increased, by your chair
sliding with you down to leeward with each roll, or, if attempting
to grapple the table with one hand, a cup of tea precipitates
itself inside of your vest, while you are attempting to secure your
nicely-prepared eggs, that in a moment fresco the deck under foot; the
saccharine is largely mixed with the saline, by the mingling contents
of the sugar-bowl and saltcellar. This is the pleasurable experience of
those, who “go down to the great deep in ships.”
We reached the south end of Loo-Choo, on the evening of the 24th, but
the weather being thick and foggy, could not run into the roads, so
stood off during the night. This day we recorded the occurrence of the
first death—one of the men, who contracted a fever on board of the
Chinese junk lost at the mouth of the Yang-tse-kiang. He was buried
the next day in the foreigners’ grove at Tumai.
On running into Napa-roads the next day, we had some hopes of finding
there the steam-frigate, Powhatan, of whose sailing from the United
States we had intelligence, but were disappointed. The Supply lay there
alone. From her officers we learned, that the cyclone, that we were in,
had been felt with great force at Loo-Choo. They had not only to let
go all their anchors, but had also slung some of their carronades to
prevent the ship’s dragging on the reefs.
We found that there had been no increase in sociability, and no
improvement in the manners of our friends, the Loo-Chooans; and
probably with the view to reduce the length of our stay, they had
diminished the supply of provisions to the ships—although well paid
for them. They plead scarcity, even to sweet potatoes and watermelons,
though they might easily be seen growing in their fields. They
preferred our loving and leaving them, but the commodore had another
interview with his coy-friend, the regent, in which he desired to know,
why they wished to cut off supplies; also that their officers must
cease to dog our steps on shore, and that they must open their stores.
As a mouse in the talons of the eagle, they promised everything, and
promised a bazar on a subsequent day, at which the Americans might
purchase whatever they had to sell. While this forcible diplomatic
wooing was going on, the younger officers, who had the opportunity,
were enjoying the delightful walk to the Komooe at Sheudi, or killing
wild pigeons and curlew on shore—a delightful gastronomic episode,
after a stretch of salt-junk.
At daybreak, on the 1st of August, in a public hall in Napa—the
mayor’s office, I believe—the Loo-Chooan bazar (!) was open. The
articles exposed for sale, were some Japanese fabrics, brought
there by the junks, some domestic cotton-cloth, and specimens
of Loo-Choo lacquer-ware, and chow-chow boxes. By nine o’clock,
A. M.—having “opened a trade” with Loo-Choo, all were aboard, when the
steam-frigates left for China, taking a look at the Amaccarima islands
as we passed, during the day.
The next evening, we espied a sail, which proved to be the United
States sloop-of-war Vandalia, which saluted the commodore, and then
laid to for her captain to repair on board of the flag-ship. We had
hoped for some letters and papers from home by her, but she had none.
After running separated for three days, in hopes of falling in with
the Powhatan, the steamers came in company again, near the southern
extremity of Formosa. At sundown on August 7th, the Mississippi and
Susquehanna, after an absence of three months and eleven days, dropped
anchor in the harbor of Hong Kong, China.