3d September, 1683. I went to see what had been done by the Duke of

Beaufort on his lately purchased house at Chelsea, which I once had the

selling of for the Countess of Bristol, he had made great alterations,

but might have built a better house with the materials and the cost he

had been at.

Saw the Countess of Monte Feltre, whose husband I had formerly known,

he was a subject of the Pope's, but becoming a Protestant he resided in

England, and married into the family of the Savilles, of Yorkshire. The

Count, her late husband, was a very learned gentleman, a great

politician, and a goodly man. She was accompanied by her sister,

exceedingly skilled in painting, nor did they spare for color on their

own faces. They had a great deal of wit.

9th September, 1683. It being the day of public thanksgiving for his

Majesty's late preservation, the former Declaration was again read, and

there was an office used, composed for the occasion. A loyal sermon was

preached on the divine right of Kings, from Psalm cxliv. 10. "Thou hast

preserved David from the peril of the sword."

15th September, 1683. Came to visit me the learned anatomist, Dr.

Tyson,[52] with some other Fellows of our Society.

[Footnote 52: Doctor Edward Tyson, a learned physician, born at

Clevedon, Somersetshire, in 1649, who became reader of the

anatomical lecture in Surgeons' Hall, and physician to the hospitals

of Bethlehem and Bridewell, which offices he held at his death, Aug.

1, 1708. He was an ingenious writer, and has left various Essays in

the Philosophical Transactions and Hook's Collections. He published

also "The Anatomy of a Porpoise Dissected at Gresham College," and

"The Anatomy of a Pigmy Compared with a Monkey, an Ape, and a Man,"

4to., 1698-99.]

16th September, 1683. At the elegant villa and garden of Mr. Bohun, at

Lee. He showed me the zinnar tree, or platanus, and told me that since

they had planted this kind of tree about the city of Ispahan, in Persia,

the plague, which formerly much infested the place, had exceedingly

abated of its mortal effects, and rendered it very healthy.

[Sidenote: LONDON]

18th September, 1683. I went to London to visit the Duchess of Grafton,

now great with child, a most virtuous and beautiful lady. Dining with

her at my Lord Chamberlain's, met my Lord of St. Alban's, now grown so

blind, that he could not see to take his meat. He has lived a most easy

life, in plenty even abroad, while his Majesty was a sufferer; he has

lost immense sums at play, which yet, at about eighty years old, he

continues, having one that sits by him to name the spots on the cards.

He ate and drank with extraordinary appetite. He is a prudent old

courtier, and much enriched since his Majesty's return.

After dinner, I walked to survey the sad demolition of Clarendon House,

that costly and only sumptuous palace of the late Lord Chancellor Hyde,

where I have often been so cheerful with him, and sometimes so sad:

happening to make him a visit but the day before he fled from the angry

Parliament, accusing him of maladministration, and being envious at his

grandeur, who from a private lawyer came to be father-in-law to the Duke

of York, and as some would suggest, designing his Majesty's marriage

with the Infanta of Portugal, not apt to breed. To this they imputed

much of our unhappiness; and that he, being sole minister and favorite

at his Majesty's restoration, neglected to gratify the King's suffering

party, preferring those who were the cause of our troubles. But perhaps

as many of these things were injuriously laid to his charge, so he kept

the government far steadier than it has proved since. I could name some

who I think contributed greatly to his ruin,--the buffoons and the

MISSIS, to whom he was an eye-sore. It is true he was of a jolly temper,

after the old English fashion; but France had now the ascendant, and we

were become quite another nation. The Chancellor gone, and dying in

exile, the Earl his successor sold that which cost £50,000 building, to

the young Duke of Albemarle for £25,000, to pay debts which how

contracted remains yet a mystery, his son being no way a prodigal. Some

imagine the Duchess his daughter had been chargeable to him. However it

were, this stately palace is decreed to ruin, to support the prodigious

waste the Duke of Albemarle had made of his estate, since the old man

died. He sold it to the highest bidder, and it fell to certain rich

bankers and mechanics, who gave for it and the ground about it, £35,000;

they design a new town, as it were, and a most magnificent piazza

[square]. It is said they have already materials toward it with what

they sold of the house alone, more worth than what they paid for it. See

the vicissitudes of earthly things! I was astonished at this demolition,

nor less at the little army of laborers and artificers leveling the

ground, laying foundations, and contriving great buildings at an expense

of £200,000, if they perfect their design.

19th September, 1683. In my walks I stepped into a goldbeater's

workhouse, where he showed me the wonderful ductility of that spreading

and oily metal. He said it must be finer than the standard, such as was

old angel-gold, and that of such he had once to the value of £100

stamped with the _agnus dei_, and coined at the time of the holy war;

which had been found in a ruined wall somewhere in the North, near to

Scotland, some of which he beat into leaves, and the rest sold to the

curiosi in antiquities and medals.

23d September, 1683. We had now the welcome tidings of the King of

Poland raising the siege of Vienna, which had given terror to all

Europe, and utmost reproach to the French, who it is believed brought in

the Turks for diversion, that the French King might the more easily

swallow Flanders, and pursue his unjust conquest on the empire, while we

sat unconcerned and under a deadly charm from somebody.

There was this day a collection for rebuilding Newmarket, consumed by an

accidental fire, which removing his Majesty thence sooner than was

intended, put by the assassins, who were disappointed of their

rendezvous and expectation by a wonderful providence. This made the King

more earnest to render Winchester the seat of his autumnal field

diversions for the future, designing a palace there, where the ancient

castle stood; infinitely indeed preferable to Newmarket for prospects,

air, pleasure, and provisions. The surveyor has already begun the

foundation for a palace, estimated to cost £35,000, and his Majesty is

purchasing ground about it to make a park, etc.

[Sidenote: LONDON]

4th October, 1683. I went to London, on receiving a note from the

Countess of Arlington, of some considerable charge or advantage I might

obtain by applying myself to his Majesty on this signal conjuncture of

his Majesty entering up judgment against the city charter; the proposal

made me I wholly declined, not being well satisfied with these violent

transactions, and not a little sorry that his Majesty was so often put

upon things of this nature against so great a city, the consequence

whereof may be so much to his prejudice; so I returned home. At this

time, the Lord Chief-Justice Pemberton was displaced. He was held to be

the most learned of the judges, and an honest man. Sir George Jeffreys

was advanced, reputed to be most ignorant, but most daring. Sir George

Treby, Recorder of London, was also put by, and one Genner, an obscure

lawyer, set in his place. Eight of the richest and chief aldermen were

removed and all the rest made only justices of the peace, and no more

wearing of gowns, or chains of gold; the Lord Mayor and two sheriffs

holding their places by new grants as _custodes_, at the King's

pleasure. The pomp and grandeur of the most august city in the world

thus changed face in a moment; which gave great occasion of discourse

and thoughts of hearts, what all this would end in. Prudent men were for

the old foundations.

Following his Majesty this morning through the gallery, I went with the

few who attended him, into the Duchess of Portmouth's DRESSING ROOM

within her bedchamber, where she was in her morning loose garment, her

maids combing her, newly out of her bed, his Majesty and the gallants

standing about her; but that which engaged my curiosity, was the rich

and splendid furniture of this woman's apartment, now twice or thrice

pulled down and rebuilt to satisfy her prodigal and expensive pleasures,

while her Majesty's does not exceed some gentlemen's ladies in furniture

and accommodation. Here I saw the new fabric of French tapestry, for

design, tenderness of work, and incomparable imitation of the best

paintings, beyond anything I had ever beheld. Some pieces had

Versailles, St. Germains, and other palaces of the French King, with

huntings, figures, and landscapes, exotic fowls, and all to the life

rarely done. Then for Japan cabinets, screens, pendule clocks, great

vases of wrought plate, tables, stands, chimney-furniture, sconces,

branches, braseras, etc., all of massy silver and out of number, besides

some of her Majesty's best paintings.

Surfeiting of this, I dined at Sir Stephen Fox's and went contented home

to my poor, but quiet villa. What contentment can there be in the riches

and splendor of this world, purchased with vice and dishonor?

10th October, 1683. Visited the Duchess of Grafton, not yet brought to

bed, and dining with my Lord Chamberlain (her father), went with them to

see Montague House, a palace lately built by Lord Montague, who had

married the most beautiful Countess of Northumberland. It is a stately

and ample palace. Signor Verrio's fresco paintings, especially the

funeral pile of Dido, on the staircase, the labors of Hercules, fight

with the Centaurs, his effeminacy with Dejanira, and Apotheosis or

reception among the gods, on the walls and roof of the great room

above,--I think exceeds anything he has yet done, both for design,

coloring, and exuberance of invention, comparable to the greatest of the

old masters, or what they so celebrate at Rome. In the rest of the

chamber are some excellent paintings of Holbein, and other masters. The

garden is large, and in good air, but the fronts of the house not

answerable to the inside. The court at entry, and wings for offices seem

too near the street, and that so very narrow and meanly built, that the

corridor is not in proportion to the rest, to hide the court from being

overlooked by neighbors; all which might have been prevented, had they

placed the house further into the ground, of which there was enough to

spare. But on the whole it is a fine palace, built after the French

pavilion-way, by Mr. Hooke, the Curator of the Royal Society. There were

with us my Lady Scroope, the great wit, and Monsieur Chardine, the

celebrated traveler.

13th October, 1683. Came to visit me my old and worthy friend, Mr.

Packer, bringing with him his nephew Berkeley, grandson to the honest

judge. A most ingenious, virtuous, and religious gentleman, seated near

Worcester, and very curious in gardening.

17th October, 1683. I was at the court-leet of this manor, my Lord

Arlington his Majesty's High Steward.

26th October, 1683. Came to visit and dine with me, Mr. Brisbane,

Secretary to the Admiralty, a learned and agreeable man.

30th October, 1683. I went to Kew to visit Sir Henry Capell, brother to

the late Earl of Essex; but he being gone to Cashiobury, after I had

seen his garden and the alterations therein, I returned home. He had

repaired his house, roofed his hall with a kind of cupola, and in a

niche was an artificial fountain; but the room seems to me

over-melancholy, yet might be much improved by having the walls well

painted _á fresco_. The two green houses for oranges and myrtles,

communicating with the rooms below, are very well contrived. There is a

cupola made with pole-work between two elms at the end of a walk, which

being covered by plashing the trees to them, is very pretty; for the

rest there are too many fir trees in the garden.

[Sidenote: LONDON]

17th November, 1683. I took a house in Villiers Street, York Buildings,

for the winter, having many important concerns to dispatch, and for the

education of my daughters.

23d November, 1683. The Duke of Monmouth, till now proclaimed traitor on

the pretended plot for which Lord Russell was lately beheaded, came this

evening to Whitehall and rendered himself, on which were various

discourses.

26th November, 1683. I went to compliment the Duchess of Grafton, now

lying-in of her first child, a son, which she called for, that I might

see it. She was become more beautiful, if it were possible, than before,

and full of virtue and sweetness. She discoursed with me of many

particulars, with great prudence and gravity beyond her years.

29th November, 1683. Mr. Forbes showed me the plot of the garden making

at Burleigh, at my Lord Exeter's, which I looked on as one of the most

noble that I had seen.

The whole court and town in solemn mourning for the death of the King of

Portugal, her Majesty's brother.

30th November, 1683. At the anniversary dinner of the Royal Society the

King sent us two does. Sir Cyril Wych was elected President.

5th December, 1683. I was this day invited to a wedding of one Mrs.

Castle, to whom I had some obligation, and it was to her fifth husband,

a lieutenant-colonel of the city. She was the daughter of one Burton, a

broom-man, by his wife, who sold kitchen stuff in Kent Street, whom God

so blessed that the father became a very rich, and was a very honest

man; he was sheriff of Surrey, where I have sat on the bench with him.

Another of his daughters was married to Sir John Bowles; and this

daughter was a jolly friendly woman. There was at the wedding the Lord

Mayor, the Sheriff, several Aldermen and persons of quality; above all,

Sir George Jeffreys, newly made Lord Chief Justice of England, with Mr.

Justice Withings, danced with the bride, and were exceedingly merry.

These great men spent the rest of the afternoon, till eleven at night,

in drinking healths, taking tobacco, and talking much beneath the

gravity of judges, who had but a day or two before condemned Mr.

Algernon Sidney, who was executed the 7th on Tower Hill, on the single

witness of that monster of a man, Lord Howard of Escrick, and some

sheets of paper taken in Mr. Sidney's study, pretended to be written by

him, but not fully proved, nor the time when, but appearing to have been

written before his Majesty's Restoration, and then pardoned by the Act

of Oblivion; so that though Mr. Sidney was known to be a person

obstinately averse to government by a monarch (the subject of the paper

was in answer to one by Sir E. Filmer), yet it was thought he had very

hard measure. There is this yet observable, that he had been an

inveterate enemy to the last king, and in actual rebellion against him;

a man of great courage, great sense, great parts, which he showed both

at his trial and death; for, when he came on the scaffold, instead of a

speech, he told them only that he had made his peace with God, that he

came not thither to talk, but to die; put a paper into the sheriff's

hand, and another into a friend's; said one prayer as short as a grace,

laid down his neck, and bid the executioner do his office.

The Duke of Monmouth, now having his pardon, refuses to acknowledge

there was any treasonable plot; for which he is banished Whitehall. This

is a great disappointment to some who had prosecuted Trenchard, Hampden,

etc., that for want of a second witness were come out of the Tower upon

their _habeas corpus_.

The King had now augmented his guards with a new sort of dragoons, who

carried also grenades, and were habited after the Polish manner, with

long peaked caps, very fierce and fantastical.

[Sidenote: LONDON]

7th December, 1683. I went to the Tower, and visited the Earl of Danby,

the late Lord High Treasurer, who had been imprisoned four years: he

received me with great kindness. I dined with him, and stayed till

night. We had discourse of many things, his Lady railing sufficiently at

the keeping her husband so long in prison. Here I saluted the Lord

Dumblaine's wife, who before had been married to Emerton, and about whom

there was that scandalous business before the delegates.

23d December, 1683. The smallpox very prevalent and mortal; the Thames

frozen.

26th December, 1683. I dined at Lord Clarendon's, where I was to meet

that ingenious and learned gentleman, Sir George Wheeler, who has

published the excellent description of Africa and Greece, and who, being

a knight of a very fair estate and young, had now newly entered into

holy orders.

27th December, 1683. I went to visit Sir John Chardin, a French

gentleman, who traveled three times by land into Persia, and had made

many curious researches in his travels, of which he was now setting

forth a relation. It being in England this year one of the severest

frosts that has happened of many years, he told me the cold in Persia

was much greater, the ice of an incredible thickness; that they had

little use of iron in all that country, it being so moist (though the

air admirably clear and healthy) that oil would not preserve it from

rusting, so that they had neither clocks nor watches; some padlocks they

had for doors and boxes.

30th December, 1683. Dr. Sprat, now made Dean of Westminster, preached

to the King at Whitehall, on Matt. vi. 24. Recollecting the passages of

the past year, I gave God thanks for his mercies, praying his blessing

for the future.

1st January, 1683-84. The weather continuing intolerably severe, streets

of booths were set up on the Thames; the air was so very cold and thick,

as of many years there had not been the like. The smallpox was very

mortal.

2d January, 1684. I dined at Sir Stephen Fox's: after dinner came a

fellow who ate live charcoal, glowingly ignited, quenching them in his

mouth, and then champing and swallowing them down. There was a dog also

which seemed to do many rational actions.

6th January, 1684. The river quite frozen.

9th January, 1684. I went across the Thames on the ice, now become so

thick as to bear not only streets of booths, in which they roasted meat,

and had divers shops of wares, quite across as in a town, but coaches,

carts, and horses passed over. So I went from Westminster stairs to

Lambeth, and dined with the Archbishop: where I met my Lord Bruce, Sir

George Wheeler, Colonel Cooke, and several divines. After dinner and

discourse with his Grace till evening prayers, Sir George Wheeler and I

walked over the ice from Lambeth stairs to the Horse-ferry.

10th January, 1684. I visited Sir Robert Reading, where after supper we

had music, but not comparable to that which Mrs. Bridgeman made us on

the guitar with such extraordinary skill and dexterity.

16th January, 1684. The Thames was filled with people and tents selling

all sorts of wares as in the city.

24th January, 1684. The frost continues more and more severe, the Thames

before London was still planted with booths in formal streets, all sorts

of trades and shops furnished, and full of commodities, even to a

printing press, where the people and ladies took a fancy to have their

names printed, and the day and year set down when printed on the Thames:

this humor took so universally, that it was estimated that the printer

gained £5 a day, for printing a line only, at sixpence a name, besides

what he got by ballads, etc. Coaches plied from Westminster to the

Temple, and from several other stairs to and fro, as in the streets,

sleds, sliding with skates, a bull-baiting, horse and coach-races,

puppet-plays and interludes, cooks, tippling, and other lewd places, so

that it seemed to be a bacchanalian triumph, or carnival on the water,

while it was a severe judgment on the land, the trees not only splitting

as if the lightning struck, but men and cattle perishing in divers

places, and the very seas so locked up with ice, that no vessels could

stir out or come in. The fowls, fish, and birds, and all our exotic

plants and greens, universally perishing. Many parks of deer were

destroyed, and all sorts of fuel so dear, that there were great

contributions to preserve the poor alive. Nor was this severe weather

much less intense in most parts of Europe, even as far as Spain and the

most southern tracts. London, by reason of the excessive coldness of the

air hindering the ascent of the smoke, was so filled with the fuliginous

steam of the sea-coal, that hardly could one see across the street, and

this filling the lungs with its gross particles, exceedingly obstructed

the breast, so as one could scarcely breathe. Here was no water to be

had from the pipes and engines, nor could the brewers and divers other

tradesmen work, and every moment was full of disastrous accidents.

4th February, 1684. I went to Sayes Court to see how the frost had

dealt with my garden, where I found many of the greens and rare plants

utterly destroyed. The oranges and myrtles very sick, the rosemary and

laurels dead to all appearance, but the cypress likely to endure it.

5th February, 1684. It began to thaw, but froze again. My coach crossed

from Lambeth, to the Horse-ferry at Milbank, Westminster. The booths

were almost all taken down; but there was first a map or landscape cut

in copper representing all the manner of the camp, and the several

actions, sports, and pastimes thereon, in memory of so signal a frost.

7th February, 1684. I dined with my Lord Keeper, [North], and walking

alone with him some time in his gallery, we had discourse of music. He

told me he had been brought up to it from a child, so as to sing his

part at first sight. Then speaking of painting, of which he was also a

great lover, and other ingenious matters, he desired me to come oftener

to him.

8th February, 1684. I went this evening to visit that great and knowing

virtuoso, Monsieur Justell. The weather was set in to an absolute thaw

and rain; but the Thames still frozen.

10th February, 1684. After eight weeks missing the foreign posts, there

came abundance of intelligence from abroad.

[Sidenote: LONDON]

12th February, 1684. The Earl of Danby, late Lord-Treasurer, together

with the Roman Catholic Lords impeached of high treason in the Popish

Plot, had now their _habeas corpus_, and came out upon bail, after five

years' imprisonment in the Tower. Then were also tried and deeply fined

Mr. Hampden and others, for being supposed of the late plot, for which

Lord Russell and Colonel Sidney suffered; as also the person who went

about to prove that the Earl of Essex had his throat cut in the Tower by

others; likewise Mr. Johnson, the author of that famous piece called

Julian.

15th February, 1684. News of the Prince of Orange having accused the

Deputies of Amsterdam of _crimen læsæ Majestatis_, and being pensioners

to France.

Dr. Tenison communicated to me his intention of erecting a library in

St. Martin's parish, for the public use, and desired my assistance, with

Sir Christopher Wren, about the placing and structure thereof, a worthy

and laudable design. He told me there were thirty or forty young men in

Orders in his parish, either governors to young gentlemen or chaplains

to noblemen, who being reproved by him on occasion for frequenting

taverns or coffeehouses, told him they would study or employ their time

better, if they had books. This put the pious Doctor on this design; and

indeed a great reproach it is that so great a city as London should not

have a public library becoming it. There ought to be one at St. Paul's;

the west end of that church (if ever finished) would be a convenient

place.

23d February, 1684. I went to Sir John Chardin, who desired my

assistance for the engraving the plates, the translation, and printing

his History of that wonderful Persian Monument near Persepolis, and

other rare antiquities, which he had caused to be drawn from the

originals in his second journey into Persia, which we now concluded

upon. Afterward, I went with Sir Christopher Wren to Dr. Tenison, where

we made the drawing and estimate of the expense of the library, to be

begun this next spring near the Mews.

Great expectation of the Prince of Orange's attempts in Holland to bring

those of Amsterdam to consent to the new levies, to which we were no

friends, by a pseudo-politic adherence to the French interest.

26th February, 1684. Came to visit me Dr. Turner, our new Bishop of

Rochester.

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