there was then at that Court! It pleased his Majesty to command me,
among the rest, to look after the quenching of Fetter-lane end, to
preserve (if possible) that part of Holborn, while the rest of the
gentlemen took their several posts, some at one part, and some at
another (for now they began to bestir themselves, and not till now, who
hitherto had stood as men intoxicated, with their hands across), and
began to consider that nothing was likely to put a stop but the blowing
up of so many houses as might make a wider gap than any had yet been
made by the ordinary method of pulling them down with engines. This some
stout seamen proposed early enough to have saved near the whole city,
but this some tenacious and avaricious men, aldermen, etc., would not
permit, because their houses must have been of the first. It was,
therefore, now commended to be practiced; and my concern being
particularly for the Hospital of St. Bartholomew, near Smithfield, where
I had many wounded and sick men, made me the more diligent to promote
it; nor was my care for the Savoy less. It now pleased God, by abating
the wind, and by the industry of the people, when almost all was lost
infusing a new spirit into them, that the fury of it began sensibly to
abate about noon, so as it came no farther than the Temple westward, nor
than the entrance of Smithfield, north: but continued all this day and
night so impetuous toward Cripplegate and the Tower, as made us all
despair. It also broke out again in the temple; but the courage of the
multitude persisting, and many houses being blown up, such gaps and
desolations were soon made, as, with the former three days' consumption,
the back fire did not so vehemently urge upon the rest as formerly.
There was yet no standing near the burning and glowing ruins by near a
furlong's space.
The coal and wood wharfs, and magazines of oil, rosin, etc., did
infinite mischief, so as the invective which a little before I had
dedicated to his Majesty and published,[5] giving warning what probably
might be the issue of suffering those shops to be in the city was looked
upon as a prophecy.
[Footnote 5: The _Fumifugium_.]
The poor inhabitants were dispersed about St. George's Fields, and
Moorfields, as far as Highgate, and several miles in circle, some under
tents, some under miserable huts and hovels, many without a rag, or any
necessary utensils, bed or board, who from delicateness, riches, and
easy accommodations in stately and well-furnished houses, were now
reduced to extreme misery and poverty.
In this calamitous condition, I returned with a sad heart to my house,
blessing and adoring the distinguishing mercy of God to me and mine,
who, in the midst of all this ruin, was like Lot, in my little Zoar,
safe and sound.
6th September, 1666. Thursday. I represented to his Majesty the case of
the French prisoners at war in my custody, and besought him that there
might be still the same care of watching at all places contiguous to
unseized houses. It is not indeed imaginable how extraordinary the
vigilance and activity of the King and the Duke was, even laboring in
person, and being present to command, order, reward, or encourage
workmen; by which he showed his affection to his people, and gained
theirs. Having, then, disposed of some under cure at the Savoy, I
returned to Whitehall, where I dined at Mr. Offley's, the groom-porter,
who was my relation.
[Sidenote: LONDON]
7th September, 1666. I went this morning on foot from Whitehall as far
as London Bridge, through the late Fleet street, Ludgate hill by St.
Paul's, Cheapside, Exchange, Bishops-gate, Aldersgate, and out to
Moorfields, thence through Cornhill, etc., with extraordinary
difficulty, clambering over heaps of yet smoking rubbish, and frequently
mistaking where I was; the ground under my feet so hot, that it even
burnt the soles of my shoes. In the meantime, his Majesty got to the
Tower by water, to demolish the houses about the graff, which, being
built entirely about it, had they taken fire and attacked the White
Tower, where the magazine of powder lay, would undoubtedly not only have
beaten down and destroyed all the bridge, but sunk and torn the vessels
in the river, and rendered the demolition beyond all expression for
several miles about the country.
At my return, I was infinitely concerned to find that goodly Church,
St. Paul's--now a sad ruin, and that beautiful portico (for structure
comparable to any in Europe, as not long before repaired by the late
King) now rent in pieces, flakes of large stones split asunder, and
nothing remaining entire but the inscription in the architrave showing
by whom it was built, which had not one letter of it defaced! It was
astonishing to see what immense stones the heat had in a manner
calcined, so that all the ornaments, columns, friezes, capitals, and
projectures of massy Portland stone, flew off, even to the very roof,
where a sheet of lead covering a great space (no less than six acres by
measure) was totally melted. The ruins of the vaulted roof falling,
broke into St. Faith's, which being filled with the magazines of books
belonging to the Stationers, and carried thither for safety, they were
all consumed, burning for a week following. It is also observable that
the lead over the altar at the east end was untouched, and among the
divers monuments the body of one bishop remained entire. Thus lay in
ashes that most venerable church, one of the most ancient pieces of
early piety in the Christian world, besides near one hundred more. The
lead, ironwork, bells, plate, etc., melted, the exquisitely wrought
Mercers' Chapel, the sumptuous Exchange, the august fabric of Christ
Church, all the rest of the Companies' Halls, splendid buildings,
arches, entries, all in dust; the fountains dried up and ruined, while
the very waters remained boiling; the voragos of subterranean cellars,
wells, and dungeons, formerly warehouses, still burning in stench and
dark clouds of smoke; so that in five or six miles traversing about I
did not see one load of timber unconsumed, nor many stones but what were
calcined white as snow.
The people, who now walked about the ruins, appeared like men in some
dismal desert, or rather, in some great city laid waste by a cruel
enemy; to which was added the stench that came from some poor creatures'
bodies, beds, and other combustible goods. Sir Thomas Gresham's statue,
though fallen from its niche in the Royal Exchange, remained entire,
when all those of the Kings since the Conquest were broken to pieces.
Also the standard in Cornhill, and Queen Elizabeth's effigies, with some
arms on Ludgate, continued with but little detriment, while the vast
iron chains of the city streets, hinges, bars, and gates of prisons,
were many of them melted and reduced to cinders by the vehement heat.
Nor was I yet able to pass through any of the narrow streets, but kept
the widest; the ground and air, smoke and fiery vapor, continued so
intense, that my hair was almost singed, and my feet insufferably
surbated. The by-lanes and narrow streets were quite filled up with
rubbish; nor could one have possibly known where he was, but by the
ruins of some Church, or Hall, that had some remarkable tower, or
pinnacle remaining.
I then went towards Islington and Highgate, where one might have seen
200,000 people of all ranks and degrees dispersed, and lying along by
their heaps of what they could save from the fire, deploring their loss;
and, though ready to perish for hunger and destitution, yet not asking
one penny for relief, which to me appeared a stranger sight than any I
had yet beheld. His Majesty and Council indeed took all imaginable care
for their relief, by proclamation for the country to come in, and
refresh them with provisions.
In the midst of all this calamity and confusion, there was, I know not
how, an alarm begun that the French and Dutch, with whom we were now in
hostility, were not only landed, but even entering the city. There was,
in truth, some days before, great suspicion of those two nations
joining; and now that they had been the occasion of firing the town.
This report did so terrify, that on a sudden there was such an uproar
and tumult that they ran from their goods, and, taking what weapons they
could come at, they could not be stopped from falling on some of those
nations whom they casually met, without sense or reason. The clamor and
peril grew so excessive, that it made the whole Court amazed, and they
did with infinite pains and great difficulty, reduce and appease the
people, sending troops of soldiers and guards, to cause them to retire
into the fields again, where they were watched all this night. I left
them pretty quiet, and came home sufficiently weary and broken. Their
spirits thus a little calmed, and the affright abated, they now began to
repair into the suburbs about the city, where such as had friends, or
opportunity, got shelter for the present to which his Majesty's
proclamation also invited them.
Still, the plague continuing in our parish, I could not, without danger,
adventure to our church.
10th September, 1666. I went again to the ruins; for it was now no
longer a city.
13th September, 1666. I presented his Majesty with a survey of the
ruins, and a plot for a new city, with a discourse on it; whereupon,
after dinner, his Majesty sent for me into the Queen's bed-chamber, her
Majesty and the Duke only being present. They examined each particular,
and discoursed on them for near an hour, seeming to be extremely pleased
with what I had so early thought on. The Queen was now in her cavalier
riding-habit, hat and feather, and horseman's coat, going to take the
air.
16th September, 1666. I went to Greenwich Church, where Mr. Plume
preached very well from this text: "Seeing, then, all these things shall
be dissolved," etc.: taking occasion from the late unparalleled
conflagration to remind us how we ought to walk more holy in all manner
of conversation.
27th September, 1666. Dined at Sir William D'Oyly's, with that worthy
gentleman, Sir John Holland, of Suffolk.
10th October, 1666. This day was ordered a general Fast through the
Nation, to humble us on the late dreadful conflagration, added to the
plague and war, the most dismal judgments that could be inflicted; but
which indeed we highly deserved for our prodigious ingratitude, burning
lusts, dissolute court, profane and abominable lives, under such
dispensations of God's continued favor in restoring Church, Prince, and
People from our late intestine calamities, of which we were altogether
unmindful, even to astonishment. This made me resolve to go to our
parish assembly, where our Doctor preached on Luke xix. 41: piously
applying it to the occasion. After which, was a collection for the
distressed losers in the late fire.
18th October, 1666. To Court. It being the first time his Majesty put
himself solemnly into the Eastern fashion of vest, changing doublet,
stiff collar, bands and cloak, into a comely dress, after the Persian
mode, with girdles or straps, and shoestrings and garters into buckles,
of which some were set with precious stones[6] resolving never to alter
it, and to leave the French mode, which had hitherto obtained to our
great expense and reproach. Upon which, divers courtiers and gentlemen
gave his Majesty gold by way of wager that he would not persist in this
resolution. I had sometime before presented an invective against that
unconstancy, and our so much affecting the French fashion, to his
Majesty; in which I took occasion to describe the comeliness and
usefulness of the Persian clothing, in the very same manner his Majesty
now clad himself. This pamphlet I entitled "_Tyrannus, or the Mode_,"
and gave it to the King to read. I do not impute to this discourse the
change which soon happened, but it was an identity that I could not but
take notice of.
[Footnote 6: This costume was shortly after abandoned, and laid
aside; nor does any existing portrait exhibit the King so
accoutered.]
This night was acted my Lord Broghill's tragedy, called "_Mustapha_,"
before their Majesties at Court, at which I was present; very seldom
going to the public theatres for many reasons now, as they were abused
to an atheistical liberty; foul and indecent women now (and never till
now) permitted to appear and act, who inflaming several young noblemen
and gallants, became their misses, and to some, their wives. Witness the
Earl of Oxford, Sir R. Howard, Prince Rupert, the Earl of Dorset, and
another greater person than any of them, who fell into their snares, to
the reproach of their noble families, and ruin of both body and soul.[7]
I was invited by my Lord Chamberlain to see this tragedy, exceedingly
well written, though in my mind I did not approve of any such pastime in
a time of such judgments and calamities.
[Footnote 7: Among the principal offenders here aimed at were Mrs.
Margaret Hughes, Mrs. Eleanor Gwynne, Mrs. Davenport, Mrs. Uphill,
Mrs. Davis, and Mrs. Knight. Mrs. Davenport (Roxolana) was "my Lord
Oxford's Miss;" Mrs. Uphill was the actress alluded to in connection
with Sir R. Howard; Mrs. Hughes ensnared Prince Rupert; and the last
of the "misses" referred to by Evelyn was Nell Gwynne.]
21st October, 1666. This season, after so long and extraordinary a
drought in August and September, as if preparatory for the dreadful
fire, was so very wet and rainy as many feared an ensuing famine.
28th October, 1666. The pestilence, through God's mercy, began now to
abate considerably in our town.
[Sidenote: LONDON]
30th October, 1666. To London to our office, and now had I on the vest
and surcoat, or tunic, as it was called, after his Majesty had brought
the whole court to it. It was a comely and manly habit, too good to
hold, it being impossible for us in good earnest to leave the Monsieurs'
vanities long.
31st October, 1666. I heard the signal cause of my Lord Cleveland
pleaded before the House of Lords; and was this day forty-six years of
age, wonderfully protected by the mercies of God, for which I render him
immortal thanks.
14th November, 1666. I went my winter circle through my district,
Rochester and other places, where I had men quartered, and in custody.
15th November, 1666. To Leeds Castle.
16th November, 1666. I mustered the prisoners, being about 600 Dutch and
French, ordered their proportion of bread to be augmented and provided
clothes and fuel. Monsieur Colbert, Ambassador at the Court of England,
this day sent money from his master, the French King, to every prisoner
of that nation under my guard.
17th November, 1666. I returned to Chatham, my chariot overturning on
the steep of Bexley Hill, wounded me in two places on the head; my son,
Jack, being with me, was like to have been worse cut by the glass; but I
thank God we both escaped without much hurt, though not without
exceeding danger.
18th November, 1666. At Rochester.
19th November, 1666. Returned home.
23d November, 1666. At London, I heard an extraordinary case before a
Committee of the whole House of Commons, in the Commons' House of
Parliament, between one Captain Taylor and my Lord Viscount Mordaunt,
where, after the lawyers had pleaded and the witnesses been examined,
such foul and dishonorable things were produced against his Lordship, of
tyranny during his government of Windsor Castle, of which he was
Constable, incontinence, and suborning witnesses (of which last, one Sir
Richard Breames was most concerned), that I was exceedingly interested
for his Lordship, who was my special friend, and husband of the most
virtuous lady in the world. We sat till near ten at night, and yet but
half the counsel had done on behalf of the plaintiff. The question then
was put for bringing in of lights to sit longer. This lasted so long
before it was determined, and raised such a confused noise among the
members, that a stranger would have been astonished at it. I admire that
there is not a rationale to regulate such trifling accidents, which
consume much time, and is a reproach to the gravity of so great an
assembly of sober men.
27th November, 1666. Sir Hugh Pollard, Comptroller of the Household,
died at Whitehall, and his Majesty conferred the white staff on my
brother Commissioner for sick and wounded, Sir Thomas Clifford, a bold
young gentleman, of a small fortune in Devon, but advanced by Lord
Arlington, Secretary of State, to the great astonishment of all the
Court. This gentleman was somewhat related to me by the marriage of his
mother to my nearest kinsman, Gregory Coale, and was ever my noble
friend, a valiant and daring person, but by no means fit for a supple
and flattering courtier.
28th November, 1666. Went to see Clarendon House, now almost finished, a
goodly pile to see, but had many defects as to the architecture, yet
placed most gracefully. After this, I waited on the Lord Chancellor, who
was now at Berkshire House, since the burning of London.
2d December, 1666. Dined with me Monsieur Kiviet, a Dutch
gentleman-pensioner of Rotterdam, who came over for protection, being of
the Prince of Orange's party, now not welcome in Holland. The King
knighted him for some merit in the Prince's behalf. He should, if
caught, have been beheaded with Monsieur Buat, and was brother-in-law to
Van Tromp, the sea-general. With him came Mr. Gabriel Sylvius, and Mr.
Williamson, secretary to Lord Arlington; M. Kiviet came to examine
whether the soil about the river of Thames would be proper to make
clinker bricks, and to treat with me about some accommodation in order
to it.
9th January, 1666-67. To the Royal Society, which since the sad
conflagration were invited by Mr. Howard to sit at Arundel-House in the
Strand, who at my instigation likewise bestowed on the Society that
noble library which his grandfather especially, and his ancestors had
collected. This gentleman had so little inclination to books, that it
was the preservation of them from embezzlement.
24th January, 1667. Visited my Lord Clarendon, and presented my son,
John, to him, now preparing to go to Oxford, of which his Lordship was
Chancellor. This evening I heard rare Italian voices, two eunuchs and
one woman, in his Majesty's green chamber, next his cabinet.
[Sidenote: LONDON]
29th January, 1667. To London, in order to my son's Oxford journey, who,
being very early entered both in Latin and Greek, and prompt to learn
beyond most of his age, I was persuaded to trust him under the tutorage
of Mr. Bohun, Fellow of New College, who had been his preceptor in my
house some years before; but, at Oxford, under the inspection of Dr.
Bathurst, President of Trinity College, where I placed him, not as yet
thirteen years old. He was newly out of long coats.[8]
[Footnote 8: In illustration of the garb which succeeded the "long
coats" out of which lads of twelve or thirteen were thus suffered to
emerge, it may be mentioned that there hung, some years ago, and
perhaps may hang still, upon the walls of the Swan Inn at
Leatherhead in Surrey, a picture of four children, dates of birth
between 1640 and 1650, of whom a lad of about the age of young
Evelyn is represented in a coat reaching to his ankles.]
15th February, 1667. My little book, in answer to Sir George Mackenzie
on Solitude, was now published, entitled "Public Employment, and an
active Life with its Appanages, preferred to Solitude."[9]
[Footnote 9: Reprinted in "Miscellaneous Writings," pp. 501-509. In
a letter to Cowley, 12th March, 1666, Evelyn apologises for having
written against that life which he had joined with Mr. Cowley in so
much admiring, assuring him he neither was nor could be serious in
avowing such a preference.]
18th February, 1667. I was present at a magnificent ball, or masque, in
the theatre at the Court, where their Majesties and all the great lords
and ladies danced, infinitely gallant, the men in their richly
embroidered, most becoming vests.
19th February, 1667. I saw a comedy acted at Court. In the afternoon, I
witnessed a wrestling match for £1,000 in St. James's Park, before his
Majesty, a vast assemblage of lords and other spectators, between the
western and northern men, Mr. Secretary Morice and Lord Gerard being the
judges. The western men won. Many great sums were betted.
6th March, 1667. I proposed to my Lord Chancellor, Monsieur Kiviet's
undertaking to wharf the whole river of Thames, or quay, from the Temple
to the Tower, as far as the fire destroyed, with brick, without piles,
both lasting and ornamental.--Great frosts, snow and winds, prodigious
at the vernal equinox; indeed it had been a year of prodigies in this
nation, plague, war, fire, rain, tempest and comet.
14th March, 1667. Saw "The Virgin Queen,"[10] a play written by Mr.
Dryden.
[Footnote 10: The VIRGIN QUEEN which Evelyn saw was Dryden's MAIDEN
QUEEN. Pepys saw it on the night of its first production (twelve
days before Evelyn's visit); and was charmed by Nell Gwynne's
Florimell. "So great a performance of a comical part was never, I
believe, in the world before."]
22d March, 1667. Dined at Mr. Secretary Morice's, who showed me his
library, which was a well chosen collection. This afternoon, I had
audience of his Majesty, concerning the proposal I had made of building
the quay.
26th March, 1667. Sir John Kiviet dined with me. We went to search for
brick-earth, in order to a great undertaking.
4th April, 1667. The cold so intense, that there was hardly a leaf on a
tree.
18th April, 1667. I went to make court to the Duke and Duchess of
Newcastle, at their house in Clerkenwell, being newly come out of the
north. They received me with great kindness, and I was much pleased with
the extraordinary fanciful habit, garb, and discourse of the Duchess.
22d April, 1667. Saw the sumptuous supper in the banqueting-house at
Whitehall, on the eve of St. George's day, where were all the companions
of the Order of the Garter.
23d April, 1667. In the morning, his Majesty went to chapel with the
Knights of the Garter, all in their habits and robes, ushered by the
heralds; after the first service, they went in procession, the youngest
first, the Sovereign last, with the Prelate of the Order and Dean, who
had about his neck the book of the Statutes of the Order; and then the
Chancellor of the Order (old Sir Henry de Vic), who wore the purse about
his neck; then the Heralds and Garter King-at-Arms, Clarencieux, Black
Rod. But before the Prelate and Dean of Windsor went the gentlemen of
the chapel and choristers, singing as they marched; behind them two
doctors of music in damask robes; this procession was about the courts
at Whitehall. Then, returning to their stalls and seats in the chapel,
placed under each knight's coat-armor and titles, the second service
began. Then, the King offered at the altar, an anthem was sung; then,
the rest of the Knights offered, and lastly proceeded to the
banqueting-house to a great feast. The King sat on an elevated throne at
the upper end at a table alone; the Knights at a table on the right
hand, reaching all the length of the room; over against them a cupboard
of rich gilded plate; at the lower end, the music; on the balusters
above, wind music, trumpets, and kettle-drums. The King was served by
the lords and pensioners who brought up the dishes. About the middle of
the dinner, the Knights drank the King's health, then the King, theirs,
when the trumpets and music played and sounded, the guns going off at
the Tower. At the Banquet, came in the Queen, and stood by the King's
left hand, but did not sit. Then was the banqueting-stuff flung about
the room profusely. In truth, the crowd was so great, that though I
stayed all the supper the day before, I now stayed no longer than this
sport began, for fear of disorder. The cheer was extraordinary, each
Knight having forty dishes to his mess, piled up five or six high; the
room hung with the richest tapestry.
25th April, 1667. Visited again the Duke of Newcastle, with whom I had
been acquainted long before in France, where the Duchess had obligation
to my wife's mother for her marriage there; she was sister to Lord
Lucas, and maid of honor then to the Queen-Mother; married in our chapel
at Paris. My wife being with me, the Duke and Duchess both would needs
bring her to the very Court.