In the bare midst of Anglesea they show
Two springs which close by one another play,
And “Thirteen hundred years agone,” they say,
Two saints met often where those waters flow.
One came from Penmon westward, and a glow
Whiten’d his face from the sun’s fronting ray;
Eastward the other, from the dying day,
And he with unsunn’d face did always go.
“Seiriol the bright, Cybi the dark!” men said;
The seer from the east was then in light,
The seer from the west was then in shade.
Ah! now ’tis changed. In conquering sunshine bright
The man of the bold west now comes array’d;
He of the mystic east is touched with night.
It is highly probable that St. Cybi did found the church that bears his
name, though the structure as it stands is no doubt of later date. The
original fabric was probably used as a school or college as well as for
public worship. St. Cybi also founded other chapels: Capel-y-Llochwydd
(meaning a desolate place), on the mountain, and Capel-y-Golles, at the
east end of which there was a spring; and another at Towyn-y-Capel, on an
artificial tumulus or mound by the sea-shore, about two and a half miles
from Holyhead, called St. Fraid (or Capel Bridget). The legend states
that St. Bridget, escaping from her persecutors, floated across from
Ireland on a green sod which, on her landing, became a firm hillock, on
which the chapel was built. Traces of a chapel can still be remembered,
but these have now disappeared, owing to the encroachment of the sea,
together with the mound on which they were discernible. There was also a
fourth chapel in the hamlet of Criccist.
The following account of Capel-y-Llochwydd, from the pen of the late
Bishop Stanley, will be of interest. (“Blackwood’s Magazine,” 1830.)
“A singular fissure, cleaved in a direct line from the summit to the
base, forms, or rather did form, a passage of communication, of no
small celebrity in ancient days, and retaining its odour of sanctity
till a very recent date. It is known by the name of Ogof Llochwyd,
‘Ogof’ signifying a cave. A spring of crystal water, filtering
through the deep strata, formed a deep well at the bottom of this
chasm. Situated just at the higher opening of the gorge was a chapel
for the accommodation of pilgrims, called Capel-y-Llochwyd, which
name a considerable remnant of ruins at the head of the gorge still
retains. Till within 60 years the lonely chapel and its well were
from time unknown the resort of the lads and lassies of the island,
who, at a certain annual festival called ‘Suliau-y-Creiriau’, or ‘The
Sundays of the relics,’ corresponding to the wakes of the northern
counties of England, and held during three successive Sundays in
July, assembled in troops to ascertain the contingencies awaiting
them. Each diviner into futurity descended the chasm to the well,
and there, if after having taken a mouthful of holy water and grasped
two handfuls of sand from the charmed font, he or she could
accomplish the re-ascent with them safely, each would obtain the wish
of their heart before the close of the year. About 60 years ago
(1770) the chapel was reduced to ruins, and the well was concealed by
filling it up with rubbish, but till twenty years ago (1810) the
walls to the height of seven or eight feet remained sufficiently
entire to convey a tolerable idea of the perfect building, which is
represented to have been a substantial though rude and simple
edifice, composed of unhewn stones, cemented with mortar, the windows
and door-frames excepted, which were well wrought by the chisel, with
considerable labour, from some very obdurate material, the whole
apparently consisting of one chamber of oblong form not exceeding a
few yards in length. Of the well, however, not a trace was left,
though its existence was proved beyond a shadow of doubt, a few years
ago, by a party who landed and at length succeeded in detecting the
spot from which, after removing a quantity of sand and loose stones,
again gushed the fountain of pure water in its pristine vigour and
doubtless inherent virtues!”
Holyhead or St. Cybi became the centre for all these chapels, and there
priests and holy men could assemble in conference and also preach the
Word of God. “Most of these saints had their Nauddvan or Sanctuaries, in
ancient times supported by certain tenures and lands which were held of
neither Prince nor Lord, but of certain saints or patrons of churches
calling themselves abbots. Of these there were seven in Anglesey that
were entitled (_in capite_) to several tenures, viz.: St. Beuno, St.
Cybi, St. Cadwallader, St. Peirio, St. Cyngar, St. Marcutus or Mechell,
St. Elian, this last being largely endowed in land. These tenures were
so bestowed in order that places of refuge or sanctuaries might be
provided, and that the persons taking refuge therein might have their
privileges and rights preserved and kept inviolate.” (See “Mona
Antiqua.”)
[Picture: Collegiate Church Holy head, Anglesea (June 1, 1772)]
After the dissolution of the monasteries the revenues of Holyhead,
Bodedern, Llandrygarn, and Bodwrog parishes came to Dr. Thomas Gwynn,
whose heir, about A.D. 1648, gave them to Jesus College, Oxford.
Grose, in his “Antiquities of England and Wales,” in 1786, writes:
“St. Cybi, the Collegiate Church of Holyhead, stands at the extreme
western corner of Holyhead Island, in a quadrangle measuring 220 feet
by 130 feet, three sides of which are enclosed by strong walls,
seventeen feet high and six thick. The fourth side is open to the
sea, having only a parapet, but is defended by steep rocks. At each
corner of the wall is an oval tower (two of which are seen in the
accompanying view). The entrance to this area is through a rude
stone gate, the masonry of which, and also of the walls and towers,
is said by Mr. Pennant to be ‘evidently Roman.’ ‘Along the walls,’
he adds ‘are two rows of round holes, about four inches in diameter,
which penetrate them. They are like those of Segontium (Caernarvon),
and nicely plaistered within.’ The church is dedicated to St. Cybi.
It is a handsome embattled edifice, built in the form of a cross.
The inside of the porch and the outside part of the transept are
rudely ornamented with grotesque figures. On the outside of the last
are dragons, and a man leading a bear with a rope, or as some suppose
it, Balaam and his Ass, with other now shapeless sculptures.”
“Maelgwyn Gwynedd, who lived about A.D. 580, is said to have founded
a college here. This Prince was styled ‘Draco Insularis.’ Perhaps
the dragon engraven on the church may allude to him. Others assert
that the founder of this college was Hwfa Cynddelew, Lord of Llys
Lliven in this island, and of one of the fifteen tribes who lived in
the time of Griffith-ap-Conan, Prince of North Wales, and Owen, his
son, about the former part of the twelfth century. It certainly was
in being before the year 1291, because it was rated in the Lincoln
taxation.”
“The head of the college was called Penclos, or Pencolas, and was one
of the three spiritual Lords of Anglesey. The Archdeacon of the
Isle, and the Abbot of Penmon were the two others.”
“The Latin title of the superior of this college was Rector, as
appears by an ancient seal inscribed ‘Sigillum Rectoris et capituli
ecclesia de Caer Gybi.’ The number of prebendaries of which this
college consisted is not known; but it is certain there were twelve
at least, that number being found in the Pension List in 1553 at £1
each. Before the dissolution, the Rector, or Provost, for so he is
also styled, had thirty-nine marks; one chaplain had eleven, and the
other two the same between them. At the dissolution (26 Henry VIII.)
the whole revenues were valued at no more than £24, as stated by both
Dugdale and Speed.”
“The King had the gift of the Provostship, which Edward III. bestowed
on his chaplain, Thomas de London, under the denomination of the
‘Provostship of his free chapel of Caer Cybe,’ for which the King, in
1351, dispensed with him for services to himself. This college was
granted, 7 James I., by that King to Francis Morris and Francis
Phillips. It became afterwards the property of Rice Gwynn, Esquire,
who, in 1648, bestowed it on Jesus College, Oxford, the great tithes
for the maintenance of two fellows and as many scholars; and since
that time the parish has been served by a curate nominated by the
college. The living is a donative, not in charge, the certified
value £35.”
Since Mr. Grose described the Church of St. Cybi with pen and pencil 111
years ago many changes have taken place. The shore below the church has
been reclaimed from the sea, the lower churchyard has been added to the
original enclosure, a broad road separates it from the present harbour,
and where the tide once flowed, under the old churchyard wall, the
extensive buildings of the London and North Western Railway Company now
stand. Steamers and trains laden with passengers and merchandise passing
to and from Ireland and America crowd the once lonely shore; and the town
and its population have grown with the growth of trade. The very aspect
and dress of the people have changed, the picturesque high-crowned hats
and long cloaks have disappeared, only the Welsh language remains, “Yr
hen iaith Gymraig,” nor does it diminish its hold on the affections of
the people.
The successive changes which the country has undergone have left their
mark on St. Cybi’s Church, the most enduring of all the buildings in Caer
Gybi. It was rebuilt during the 14th century, during the reign of Edward
III., as appears by the arms of England and France cut out in a stone
near the porch, and stones are in the walls worked as if belonging to a
former building. The east window is of that date. The church was
practically rebuilt again in the time of Henry VII., though the beautiful
plan then conceived was not fully carried out. The Tudor cognizances are
carved on the frieze of the church, under the battlements, with St.
Cybi’s name, and the inscription on the north side is still quite
legible, “Sanctus Kebius ora pro nobis.” The steeple was rebuilt in the
17th century. The choir in 1713, when the tomb of Roderic ap Owen was
discovered, and on the coffin a small brass bell curiously wrought
through network; the date of his death was 1175. {16}
The ruins of the chapel (Capel Llan-y-Gwyddel) mentioned as standing
south of St. Cybi’s Church, within the enclosure, were converted into a
public school by Chancellor Edward Wynn, LL.D., of Bodewryd in Anglesey,
who by bond, bearing date November 25th, 1748, endowed it with a capital
of £120; “the interest whereof is to be paid annually on the 24th
November to a schoolmaster, who is to teach six poor boys of the town to
read and write.”
[Picture: Collegiate Church, Holy Head. Pl. 2 (Nov. 6, 1785)]
Light is thrown upon the wants and difficulties of the last century, in
matters of education, by some letters from the Rev. T. Ellis, Rector of
Holyhead, to Chancellor Wynn’s sister, Madame Owen of Penrhos.
In January, 1745, he writes:—“There’s nothing my heart is so much set
upon as seeing ye Chancellor’s school brought to perfection, which I hope
in God, it will be soon, thro’ yr means, and I really believe it would be
ye best work that has been done in ys county for perhaps three hundred
years past . . .
“The following old proverbs will be admitted for my excuse,—‘Ple caffo y
Cymro, y cais.’ ‘Y neb a fo ddi gwylydd, a fydd ddi golled.’ My humble
request is that you’ll be so kind as to send orders pr bearer to finish
ye floor of the School, and to plaster and whitewash ye walls, (which
look exceeding ugly at present) and to make a large oak table for
writing, wch will make ye place quite compleat to the Chancellor’s
liking, wn he comes to view it (as I hope he will) after his return from
Hereford. I’d not be so bold a beggar and put on ye Irishman in this
manner, but for my real concern for ye swarm of children, wch grow in a
manner wild for want of schooling, who I hope will thro’ yr means be put
in a way of serving God and man. . . . ”
January, 1746:—“As the school is always uppermost in my head and heart, I
can’t forbear mentioning it to you, who are so good as to sympathise wth
ye Parish and me on its account. I fear the Chancellor thinks me
troublesome and is offended at my frequent applications, else I would
have been wth you long agoe. What to do I don’t know, I must not speak
to him about it, it seems, tho’ as it were ready to burst, in spight of
all the patience I preach to myself and others. . . . It is time to give
an account of my stewardship of yr four guineas you entrusted to my care
for the benefit of this Parish. Out of the first two guineas there went
for the Bible £1 4 0, for the folio Common Prayer-book 13s.”
Later, Mr. Ellis writes to Madam Owen thus:—“I shew’d T. Edwards yr
memorandum of yr Brother’s promising the sum of two hundred pounds to ye
School dated May ye 1st, 1745. . . . Please to present my respects to ye
Chancellor and to ask him if he would be offended at a Volunteer Master’s
being put in ye School to take his chance till Providence sends an
endowment.”
“. . . I’ve sent the Chancellor herewith a present of 2 London
discourses. I’m employed by ye Society for promoting Xtian Knowledge to
procure subscriptions towds printing ye 15,000 Welch Bibles, wch are now
in ye Press. As Anglesey is call’d of old “Mam Cymru” or Mother of
Wales, she’ll set her daughters (viz. ye other Counties) a good example
on ys excellent occasion, wch will otherwise be a great reproach to ye
Welch, who but for ye charity of ye English wd in a few years have scarce
any such things as a Welch Bible among them.”
January, 1747:—“Please tell the Chancellor that I acquainted the Society
with his £10 subscription and communicate to him the following good news,
wch will give him pleasure, viz.: that the Society has at last got in
benefactions enough to defray the whole expence of the impression of the
Welch Bibles (except ye binding), and yt is expected it will be finished
before Lady Day next. According to ye good old custom I heartily wish
you all a happy new year and many. Your obliged servant to command,
Thos. Ellis.”
The successive owners of Penrhos were closely connected with the fortunes
of Holyhead. Sir John Stanley, afterwards first Lord Stanley of
Alderley, his brother, the accomplished Bishop of Norwich and their sons,
the Honorable W. O. Stanley, and Arthur Penrhyn Stanley, Dean of
Westminster, took the keenest interest in chronicling the facts and
legends connected with the venerable church, and in the preservation of
its fabric.
During the last months of Mrs. Stanley’s life it was her great interest
to plan a complete restoration of the church, to complete the clerestory
left unfinished in Tudor times, and to render the dilapidated building
once more a worthy sanctuary for the prayers and praises which had echoed
within its walls for over thirteen centuries. Mrs. Stanley’s plan
included the erection of a monument to the husband she had loved so well,
and whose life had been devoted to the welfare of Holyhead.
The restoration of the church was carried out after her death from the
plans of Sir Gilbert Scott, mainly at the expense of Mr. Stanley, in
1879. By the removal of the earth accumulated within the building, the
bases of the pillars long buried were brought to light, and the church
revealed once more in the beauty of its original proportions. And now
Mrs. Stanley’s last wish has been fully carried out, as regards her
husband’s monument, by its erection in a fitting shrine by one who,
having filled a daughter’s place in the home at Penrhos, has put her
whole heart into the perfecting of a work which she regarded as a sacred
trust bequeathed to her.
[Picture: Monument to The Honble. William Owen Stanley (d. 1884), erected
by desire of Ellin, his wife]
The south chancel aisle was completed and unveiled on Sunday, the 20th
June, 1897, the 60th anniversary of the Queen’s Accession. The carved
figures on the outside representing St. Seiriol and St. Cybi, are from
the designs of Mr. Hamo Thornycroft; the steps, of green serpentine
marble, are taken from the Rhoscolyn Quarry, Holyhead Island, by the
kindness of Colonel Hampton Lewis of Bodior.
Mr. Arthur Baker, who carried out the restoration of 1877 under Sir
Gilbert Scott, has been the architect of the present addition; but to the
deep regret of all who knew him, he has passed away this year, and we owe
the perfecting and completion of the work to the devoted personal
superintendance of his partner, and son-in-law, Mr. Harold Hughes, of
Bangor.
The monument itself is of Carrara marble, designed by Hamo Thornycroft,
R.A. It consists of a life-size recumbent figure with watching angels at
the head and the feet. With the help of Mr. Watts, R.A., and his
knowledge of the original, the sculptor has produced a wonderful
likeness, recalling to all who knew him the characteristics of Mr.
Stanley’s fine head and impressive features. Mr. Watts, who has himself
followed the progress of the memorial for many years with keen interest,
considers it one of the finest works of art of modern times.