CHAPTER XI

NOTES ON THE GIRAFFE

Appearance of the giraffe--Not a vanishing species--Immense

range--Habitat--Native mounted hunters--Destruction of giraffes

and other game by Europeans--Necessity of restraining native

hunters--Discussion as to the possibility of the giraffe existing

for long periods without drinking--Water-conserving tubers--Wild

water-melons--Habits of elephants after much persecution--Possible

explanation of the belief that giraffes can dispense with

water--Giraffes seen in the act of drinking--Giraffes absolutely

voiceless--Partial to open, park-like country--Difficult

to approach on foot--Giraffes very keen-scented--Hunting

giraffes with Bushmen trackers--Exhilarating sport--Pace of

the giraffe--The easiest way to kill giraffes--Driving wounded

giraffes to camp--Two curious experiences with giraffes--"Stink

bulls"--Excellence of the meat of a fat giraffe cow--Height of

giraffes--Giraffes only occasionally killed by lions--Young

giraffe attacked by leopards.

"Ungainly" is an epithet which has often been applied to the giraffe;

but "stately," I think, would be a far more truly descriptive word,

and there is certainly no animal in Africa which adds so much to the

interest of the parched and waterless wastes in which it is usually

found as this tallest of mammals. The sight of a herd of giraffes

walking leisurely across an open piece of ground, or feeding through

a park-like country of scattered trees and bush, is one which, once

seen, must ever linger in the memory; for there is a something about

the appearance of some few of the largest mammals still extant upon the

earth which stirs the imagination as the sight of smaller but more

beautiful animals can never do. When watching a moose bull standing

knee-deep on the edge of some swampy lake, amidst the silence and the

gloom of sub-Arctic pine forests, I always seem to be carried back to

some far distant period of the world's history; and I remember that

when hunting with Bushmen amidst the dull monotony of the sun-scorched,

silent wastes of Western South Africa, the sight of giraffes always

stirred the same thought. My rude companions were palæolithic men, and

we were hunting strange beasts in the hot dry atmosphere of a long past

geological era.

Giraffes are often spoken of as a scarce and fast vanishing species,

but this I cannot believe to be really the case. There are vast areas

of country, extending right across the whole width of the broadest part

of Africa from Senegambia to Somaliland, and from thence southwards to

the northern border of British Central Africa, throughout the whole

of which one or other of the different races into which giraffes

have lately been divided is to be found, often in great abundance.

Throughout the greater part of this immense range, these magnificent,

strangely beautiful creatures will, in my opinion, continue to live

and thrive for centuries yet to come; for the giraffe is, as a rule,

an inhabitant only of countries which, owing to the extreme scarcity

of water, can never be settled up by Europeans, nor support anything

but a sparse and scattered population of native herdsmen. Here they

will never be hunted to any great extent by Europeans on horseback, nor

shot down in large numbers for the sake of their hides, whilst their

keenness of sight and great range of vision will protect them very

effectually from all danger of extermination at the hands of native

hunters as long as these latter are only armed with primitive weapons.

Even in the countries to the south and west of the Zambesi river,

though there the range of the giraffe has been sadly curtailed since

the time when the emigrant Boers first crossed the Orange river in

1836, these animals are far from being a vanished species, or one which

is on the verge of extermination. True, there are now no giraffes left

in large areas of country where thirty years ago they were plentiful,

but these animals are still to be found in Western Matabeleland,

throughout the greater part of Khama's country, as well as in the

Northern Kalahari, and thence northwards to far within the boundaries

of the Portuguese province of Angola. The whole of this vast extent of

country is, like so much of Northern Africa to the south of the Sahara

and Abyssinia, a semidesert, impossible of settlement by Europeans;

for although it is covered for the most part with trees of various

kinds, or thorn scrub varying in height from two or three to twelve or

fifteen feet, the soil is almost everywhere deep soft sand, and for

several months in the year there is little or no surface water, except

in the large rivers, which are few in number and far apart. Throughout

the greater part of these arid, sun-scorched wastes, giraffes are, I

think, likely to hold their own for a long time to come, if only some

check can be put upon the operations of the native mounted hunters,

belonging to the Bakwena, Bamangwato, and Batauwana tribes, who are now

practically their only enemies.

For the extermination of the giraffe in the Transvaal, Bechwanaland,

and the country immediately to the north of the Limpopo, Europeans

are entirely responsible. The Boers killed most of them, of course,

because up to 1890 Boer hunters were always in the proportion of at

least ten to one to white hunters of any other nationality. But, man

for man, English hunters were quite as destructive as Boers. The fact

is, the pioneers of all the white races of North-Western Europe in new

countries are tarred with the same brush, as far as the extermination

of wild animals is concerned. In North America the western

frontiers-men, who were largely of British descent, exterminated in a

few short years the countless herds of bison; in South Africa the Boers

have exterminated or brought to the verge of extinction many species of

animals which but a few decades ago were spread over the face of the

land in seemingly inexhaustible numbers; and to-day the inhabitants of

Newfoundland are hard at work destroying as fast as they can the great

herds of seals which annually assemble in the early spring to bring

forth their young on the ice floes off the coast of Labrador.

When human greed of gain is added to the old love of hunting, and

both are unrestrained by legislation, the speedy extermination of any

beast or bird which has any market value must necessarily follow. The

errors of the past can never be retrieved, but it is to be hoped that

now that every part of the world has been taken under the protection

of some civilised state, no species of animal or bird which still

survives in any considerable numbers will be allowed to become extinct.

The white man, whether Boer or Britain, is now effectually restrained

from taking any further part in lessening the numbers of the giraffes

in the countries to the west of Southern Rhodesia and to the north

of the Limpopo, which are under British protection, and if only the

native Bechwana hunters from Molipololi, Palapye, and Denukana--who

are well-mounted and armed with breech-loading rifles--were forbidden

by their chiefs to kill more than a certain fixed number of giraffes

annually, and severely punished for exceeding the limit allowed, I see

no reason why these most interesting animals should not survive for

all time, throughout all those great areas of South-Western Africa

where, owing to the scarcity of water, no human beings other than a few

scattered families of wandering Bushmen can ever make their home.

The belief is very general, both amongst white and native hunters in

South Africa, that giraffes are capable of going for months at a time

without drinking, and the fact that they are to be found during the

driest season of the year in the most arid districts, far away from

any place where surface water exists, lends colour to this belief.

But yet it seems to me impossible that an animal of the size of the

giraffe, which during the dry season is exposed day after day to a

sun-heat of 165° (Fahrenheit), and which browses on leaves and twigs

which at that time of year contain but little moisture, can really

live for long periods without drinking. When hunting with Bushmen in

the country to the south of the Mababi river, which towards the end of

the dry season is quite waterless, my savage companions would often

halt suddenly on perceiving a certain thin, grass-like leaf protruding

from the ground, and squatting down, commence digging vigorously with

their spears in the soft sandy soil. They would presently unearth great

white tubers--often as big as a man's head--white in colour and looking

something like very large turnips. These tubers contained as much water

as a juicy orange, and were, as the Bushmen said, "metsi hela" (that

is, "nothing but water"). They told me, and I think with truth, that

they were able to live and hunt in the country where these tubers grew

without requiring water to drink. They also informed me that elands,

gemsbucks, and other antelopes which live in the desert were in the

habit of pawing away the sand from and then eating these tubers, which

rendered them independent of actual drinking water. There are probably

other water-conserving tubers, known to animals which live in the

waterless parts of Western South Africa; and at certain times of year

a kind of small water-melon grows in the Kalahari in great profusion,

which, as long as it lasts, renders all wild animals entirely

independent of drinking water. Oxen and horses soon get accustomed to

these wild melons and thrive on them, and human beings can make tea or

coffee from their juice.

Now, the occurrence of wild melons and tubers which contain a great

deal of water, probably explains the otherwise unaccountable fact

that large antelopes and other animals are able to exist in the most

arid portions of South-West Africa at a time of year when there is

absolutely no surface water; but in the country to the south of the

Mababi the Bushmen stated emphatically that giraffes never dug up the

water-containing tubers of which I have spoken. My own belief is that,

although they must be able to go without water for a much longer time

than most animals, they must nevertheless drink periodically throughout

the year. It is possible that in the recesses of the Kalahari the

giraffes may obtain the fluid they require from the wild water-melons

like other animals, or in periods of prolonged drought they may migrate

to the neighbourhood of the Botletlie and other rivers. To the east and

north of the Botletlie, a glance at a good map will show that giraffes

could never be more than fifty or sixty miles from permanent water.

When I was hunting elephants on the Chobi river, in the 'seventies of

last century, elephants were in the habit of drinking early one night

in that river, and then travelling straight away into the waterless

country to the west, and I am sure they got their next drink, either

twenty-four or possibly forty-eight hours later, in the overflow

of the Okavango, known by the natives living on the Mababi as the

Machabi. These elephants, which had become excessively wary, through

much hunting, I believe never quenched their thirst twice running in

the same river; and as giraffes would not require to drink nearly as

frequently as elephants, they would be able to range over far more

extensive areas of country than those animals, drinking at intervals

at points far distant one from another, and between which there was

absolutely no surface water. I cannot help thinking that the idea that

giraffes can go for months together without drinking, in countries

where there is but a small percentage of fluid in the food they eat,

and in which the heat and dryness of the atmosphere are so intense that

one's nails become as brittle as glass and the hairs of one's beard

are constantly splitting, must be a mistaken one. It is, however, only

right to say that many very experienced African hunters hold the view

that giraffes are quite independent of water, and that they can and do

exist for months at a time without drinking.

Giraffes certainly show no aversion to water, as I have frequently

seen them drinking, and watched them as they gradually straddled their

forelegs wide apart, by a series of little jerks, until they at length

got their mouths down to the surface of the pool.

Many herbivorous animals are, as a rule, very silent, but all antelopes

are capable of making, and do occasionally make, certain vocal sounds.

But the giraffe appears to be absolutely voiceless. At any rate, I have

never heard one make any kind of noise, and that was the experience of

my friend the late Mr. A. H. Neumann; whilst Mr. H. A. Bryden, as well

as other men who have hunted these animals, have put the same fact on

record.

Although giraffes often feed through dense thickets of wait-a-bit

thorns on their way from one part of a country to another, they

are more partial, I think, to open park-like surroundings than to

thick forest. In portions of Khama's country--both near Lopepe and

Metsi-butluku--I have upon more than one occasion seen giraffes and

springbucks at the same time. In such districts, before the days of

the modern long-range, small-bore rifles, it was very difficult to

get within shot of the former animals on foot, as, owing to the great

height of their heads above the ground and their quickness of sight,

they were always able to see anything approaching them, when still a

long way off. Giraffes are also very keen-scented, as any one will

agree who has often followed on their spoor with Bushmen trackers.

Pointing to the ground, on which they have read as in a book that just

here the giraffes have commenced to run, these quick-sighted savages

will suddenly dash off along the spoor with right arms extended,

crying, "Sabili; ootlili pevu"[16] ("They've run away; they've got our

wind"). Running on the tracks of the disturbed animals at a pace which

it requires a sharp canter to keep up with, it is seldom that these

wiry sons of the desert will not bring the mounted hunter in sight of

the giant quarry. "Tutla, tutla ki-o" ("The giraffes; there are the

giraffes"), they cry, pointing eagerly forwards with glistening eyes.

And then it is for the white man to do his part and secure a plentiful

supply of meat for his savage friends.

[16] Literally, "They've _heard_ the wind."

The chase of the giraffe on horseback lacks, of course, the fierce

joy and the soul-stirring excitement which accompanied elephant- and

lion-hunting, with the rude muzzle-loading guns used by professional

African hunters some forty years ago; for the giraffe is a most

harmless and inoffensive animal, in no way dangerous to human life. The

same thing may, however, be said of the fox and the wild red deer of

Exmoor, the pursuit of which animals, it is generally conceded, affords

some of the most exhilarating sport procurable in this country.

Personally, in the old days when giraffes were very plentiful, and

when, with the thoughtless optimism of youth, one failed to realise

that they would ever become scarce, and when, moreover, a large supply

of meat was constantly required to feed one's native followers, I

always looked upon a good, reckless, breakneck gallop after a herd of

giraffes as a most exhilarating experience. The giant quadrupeds looked

so splendid as they dashed along at tremendous speed, with their long

black tails screwed up over their backs. Nothing checked their pace, as

they tore their way through dense thorn jungles, or crashed through the

branches of forest trees, ever and anon dipping their lofty heads with

the most unerring judgment so as just to pass beneath some horizontal

limb, which almost seemed to graze their shoulders. One took lots of

chances in giraffe-hunting, and got many a heavy fall when galloping

_ventre à terre_ across open ground full of ant-bear holes, or deep

sun-cracks hidden from view by thick tussocky grass, and when one saw

the branches of two neighbouring wait-a-bit thorn bushes, each covered

with hundreds of little hard black hooks, suddenly close together

with a swish behind the disappearing stern of a giraffe, it needed

considerable resolution to follow in its wake.

I have often had the greater part of my shirt--for I never wore a

coat--torn off and my bare arms very severely scratched whilst chasing

giraffes through thick wait-a-bit thorn scrub. I have had some heavy

falls too, and once knocked one of my front teeth clean out of the

socket, through galloping into an ant-eater's hole and falling on my

heavy ten-bore rifle. On another occasion my horse rolled over on

me, and cracked the tibia of my right leg, so that some of the serum

ran out and formed a lump on the bone. However, I never hurt myself

seriously, and the risk of such little misadventures when galloping

after giraffes through thick forests and over ground where the holes

were hidden by long grass always added zest to the pursuit of these

animals.

The pace of the giraffe, when pressed, is very great, and in my own

experience, which has been considerable, I have found that it is only

an exceptionally fast South African shooting horse which can actually

gallop past an unwounded giraffe in open ground. The young Boer hunters

used always to think a lot of a horse which was fast enough to enable

them to "brant," _i.e._ "burn," a giraffe. This meant firing into one

of these animals when galloping level with it and at a distance of only

a few paces. Such a practice is, however, not to be recommended, as it

takes too much out of a horse, upon which one has to depend to keep

one's camp in meat throughout a long hunting season, and the easiest

way of killing giraffes is not to press them too hard, but to jump off

behind them whenever a suitable opportunity occurs and aim for the root

of the tail. A bullet so placed, even from one of the old low velocity

rifles of forty years ago, would penetrate to the heart and lungs, and

soon prove fatal.

A wounded giraffe will usually, if not invariably, run against the

wind, and if one's waggon or camp is anywhere in the direction for

which it is heading, it is possible, by galloping alongside and

shouting, to alter its course to a certain extent, and so drive

the unsuspecting animal close up to the place where it can be most

conveniently killed and cut up. I have driven many giraffes quite close

up to my waggons before killing them; but I have also found that if

a wounded giraffe takes a course exactly opposite to that in which

you want it to go, no power on earth will make it turn right round

and run in the other direction. In the nature of things one cannot

have an adventure with a giraffe, but I have had two somewhat curious

experiences with these animals.

During 1876, when my friend George Dorehill and I were hunting in

Western Matabeleland, some Bushmen one day came to our camp and asked

us to shoot them a giraffe for the sake of the meat; so, on the

following morning, we went out with them, and before long crossing the

fresh tracks of a big old bull, followed them, and presently came up

with the animal itself. After a short gallop, I wounded it, and it then

very soon came to a halt and stood quite still. Wishing to drive it to

our camp, I rode slowly towards it, waving my hat and shouting, but it

never moved. I was sitting on my horse quite close to where the giant

beast stood towering above me, when I heard the crack of my friend's

rifle close behind me. At the same instant, the whole seventeen feet of

giraffe lurched over and came tumbling towards me, perfectly rigid and

without a bend in legs or neck. I don't think I had hold of my horse's

reins when my friend fired and shot the giraffe through the head from

behind, and the sudden fall of the huge beast was so unexpected that my

horse never moved till the great head crashed to the ground close to

its forefeet. I am sure that I am not exaggerating when I say that the

short thick horns of this dead giraffe only missed my horse's neck by

less than six inches. Had the giraffe only been a little taller, or had

my horse and I been a little nearer to it, there would have been more

than one dead animal on the ground soon after my friend's very accurate

shot.

On another occasion, during the same year, Dorehill wounded a

giraffe--a good-sized but not full-grown bull--which, after running a

little distance, stopped and then knelt down, in the position of an

ox or a camel at rest, and never moved when we rode up and dismounted

close to it. "I'll bet you, you won't get on to its back," said my

friend. We were both of us very young men then, which perhaps does

not excuse the thoughtless cruelty of the act; but in answer to my

friend's challenge I at once vaulted on to the giraffe's back, and

sat astride it just behind the withers. Immediately I touched it the

startled animal struggled to its feet and started off at a gallop.

Clasping it round the neck, I had no difficulty in retaining my seat,

and my remembrance is that the motion of my tall steed was easy. I was

not carried very far, however, and there were fortunately no trees,

but only a low growth of scrubby bush for a good distance in front of

us. After carrying me at a swinging canter for a short distance, the

giraffe once more knelt gently down, and I hastily dismounted. This

giraffe was not mortally wounded, but a bullet had injured its hip or

pelvis, though, as far as I can remember, no bone was actually broken.

The body of an old bull giraffe gives out an excessively strong,

pungent odour, which can be smelt by a human being at a considerable

distance. These old bulls, which are always so dark in colour that they

look almost black, used to be called by the old Boer hunters "stink

bulls." The meat of such animals was never eaten by white hunters, but

every scrap of it was either consumed when fresh, or dried for future

consumption, by one's Kafir or Bushman followers. The tongue of an old

bull giraffe, which is the only part of such an animal that I have ever

eaten, I have, however, always found to be excellent.

During the rainy season, when giraffes are able to obtain without

much exertion a plentiful supply of sweet and nourishing food, the

full-grown cows get into very good condition, and are sometimes so

fat in the early part of the dry season--May and June--that they

probably never get into bad order for the remainder of the year. I have

shot giraffe cows whose sides when the hide was peeled off them were

covered with a thick layer of white fat, from half an inch to over two

inches in thickness from shoulder to rump. There is no finer meat to

be got in the whole world than that of a fat giraffe cow, and the soft

white fat when rendered out is equal to the best lard. The tongue and

marrow-bones are also great delicacies, and the hide is valuable for

waggon whips, sjamboks, and the soles of boots. No wonder the South

African frontiers-men, whether Boers or Britons, were always keen

giraffe hunters.

It has often been stated that giraffe bulls in South Africa grow to

a height of 19 feet, whilst the cows attain to a stature of from 16

to 17 feet. I unfortunately only measured the standing height of two

bull giraffes; both of which, however, were old animals, and seemed

to me to be fine specimens of their kind. One of these, the head of

which I still have in my collection, measured, when his legs and

neck had been pulled out into as straight a line as possible, just

17 feet, the measurement having been taken between two stakes, the

one driven into the ground at the base of the forefoot, the other at

the top of the short horns. This giraffe was undoubtedly a very large

animal, and I remember very well Mr. Rowland Ward remarking on the

size of its skull, compared to one which had lately been brought from

Somaliland by the late Mr. F. L. James, as they both lay side by side

in Piccadilly. The other giraffe I measured--also a big bull, or, at

any rate, an old one--could only have stood 16 feet 6 inches in height,

in a straight line from the heel of the forefoot to the top of the

horns. The original old South African bull giraffe, too, which once

used to stand in the Mammalian Gallery of the Natural History Museum at

South Kensington, and which always appeared to me to be a magnificent

specimen in point of size, only measured as set up 17 feet 5 inches

from the ground to the top of the horns. I took this measurement myself

with the aid of a ladder. I know that in the Tring Museum the Hon.

Walter Rothschild has a specimen of a giraffe from Southern Angola,

which measures 18 feet 4 inches as it stands. But I am not convinced

that the animal actually stood that height when alive. In modern

taxidermy a framework model of an animal is first built, and the skin

then stretched over it. The man who shot and preserved the skin of the

giraffe now in the Tring Museum said that it stood 18 feet 4 inches,

and it has been set up to that height; but if the measurement was

taken carelessly, or over the curves of the animal's body, there would

be no difficulty in stretching the skin so as to obtain the height

required. My esteemed friend the late Mr. A. H. Neumann, than whom

there never lived a better authority upon African game, when speaking

of the northern giraffe in _The Great and Small Game of Africa_, says:

"It may possibly be somewhat smaller (than the southern species), for

the height of the full-grown males I have shot averaged about 16 feet,

that of the cows 14 feet." And he further says: "And though I have not

found these dimensions exceeded respectively in any of the southern

specimens of either sex I have myself killed anywhere, I have read in

the accounts of other hunters of considerably taller animals being

obtained in parts of South Africa."

Personally, grounding my belief on the size of the magnificent old

bull giraffe which once stood in the Mammalian Gallery of the Natural

History Museum at South Kensington, and the measurement I myself

took, immediately it was dead, of a very fine old bull which I shot in

Western Matabeleland in 1880, I should say that the average height, at

any rate of giraffe bulls in South Africa, cannot be more than 17 feet,

and that of the cows about 2 feet less. I have never measured a cow

giraffe, but in a herd of these animals an old black bull always towers

above the tallest cows. Exceptional specimens in both sexes may, of

course, grow much taller than the average height of the species.

Giraffes are, I think, less troubled by lions or other carnivorous

animals than any other African mammal, with the exception of the

elephant, rhinoceros, and hippopotamus. That giraffes are occasionally

killed by lions is, of course, a well-known fact, but my own experience

leads me to believe that such cases are quite exceptional. There are

two reasons, I think, for this, the first being that giraffes spend

most of their time in very dry, semidesert countries, far away from

water, into which lions do not often penetrate; and the second, that,

owing to their great size and strength and the thickness of their

hides, giraffes cannot be easy animals for even lions to pull down,

and, as a matter of fact, I think they are seldom molested in parts of

the country where game of other kinds, such as zebras, buffaloes, or

large antelopes, are plentiful.

An instance of a young giraffe being attacked by two leopards once

came within my own experience. I was riding with some Bushmen--more

than thirty years ago now--near the course of the Upper Tati river

in Western Matabeleland, when a single giraffe cow ran out into the

open from a cluster of mimosa trees through which we were passing.

Immediately I saw the giraffe, I put spurs to my horse and galloped

after it, but had only just reached the edge of the mimosa grove when

my horse put his foot in a hole, and not only fell, but rolled over

on me, breaking the thin thong attached to my belt from a ring on the

bridle. I was not hurt, but I was unable to extricate myself and regain

my feet as quickly as my horse, and he, not being a very well-trained

animal, trotted away in the direction taken by the giraffe before I

could get hold of the bridle. I now for the first time saw a very young

giraffe calf, which I do not think could have been more than a day or

two old, running between my horse and its mother, but much nearer to

the former than the latter. I suppose this little calf, being so very

young, had been purposely left by its mother lying hidden amongst the

bushes to await her return, but that we had frightened it and caused it

to jump up and run off. As we watched it we saw it run close up to my

horse, and as long as it was in view it appeared to be running close

behind it.

I now told two of my Bushmen to run after my horse, and try and get

in front of it and then catch it and bring it back to me. This they

succeeded in doing before very long, as, after having trotted away for

a mile or so, my recreant steed had commenced to feed. When we met, the

Bushmen told me that the giraffe cow had come round and taken off the

calf before they came up with my horse.

Since this giraffe calf was evidently very young and weak, I thought

it would be an easy matter to catch it alive, so I told my Bushmen to

take up its spoor at once. We had been following the tracks of both

the cow and the calf for perhaps a mile, when I saw the head and neck

of the latter rising out of some tussocky grass in an opening in the

forest. Galloping up to it, I found that the poor little creature's

hind-legs were stretched out straight behind it, as if its back were

broken. It was also bleeding from a few scratches. My Bushmen were

now examining the ground round the injured calf; and I heard one of

them say, "Ingwi, ingwi mabele" ("Leopards, two leopards"). They

soon explained to me exactly what had happened. As the giraffe calf

was following its mother, two leopards had attacked it. They must,

however, have been driven from their prey very quickly, as I could

only find a few claw-marks upon the body of the calf. Its mother had

evidently struck at the leopards with her forefeet, as we found several

freshly-made marks where her sharp hoofs had struck the hard ground.

Unfortunately, one of these terrific blows, very probably the first

aimed at the leopard which had attacked the calf, had struck the little

creature on the loins and broken its back, or at any rate paralysed its

hind-quarters. I searched all round for the leopards, but could not

find them, and was obliged to kill the calf, for it could only have

died a lingering death if I had not done so, or been torn to pieces

sooner or later by leopards or hyænas.

I don't think giraffes ever give birth to more than one calf at a time.

The calves are born, in South-Western Africa, towards the end of the

dry season or early in the rainy season, that is, during the months of

September, October, November, or December.

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