May 10.--The morning was spent in washing my clothes, cooking meat, and

preparing to move on in the afternoon. Wylie, who knew that this was his

last opportunity, was busy with the skeleton of the horse, and never

ceased eating until we moved on in the afternoon. As we took away with us

nearly a hundred pounds of the flesh, the poor horses were heavily laden

for the condition they were in. The scrubby and swampy nature of the

country behind the shore compelled us too to keep the beach, where the

sands were loose and heavy. Our progress was slow, and at eight miles I

halted. Here we found a little dry grass not far from the sea, and as the

horses did not require water, they fared tolerably well. This was the

first grass we had met with since we descended the cliffs on the 3rd

instant. The horses having entirely subsisted since then on the wiry

vegetation which binds the sand-drifts together. Although we had water in

the canteens for ourselves, and the horses did not require any, I was

curious to know whether fresh water could be procured where we were

encamped--a long, low and narrow tongue of sandy land, lying between the

sea on one side and extensive salt swamps on the other, and in no part

elevated more than a few feet above the level of the sea itself. After

tea I took the spade and commenced digging, and to my great surprise at

six feet I obtained water, which though brackish was very palatable. This

was very extraordinary, considering the nature of the position we were

in, and that there were not any hills from which the fresh water could

drain.

The night was again bitterly cold and frosty, and we suffered severely.

Now the winter had set in, and we were sadly unprepared to meet its

inclemency, the cold at nights became so intense as to occasion me

agonies of pain; and the poor native was in the same predicament.

May 11.--Upon moving away this morning, I kept behind the sea shore along

the borders of the salt swamp, steering for some sand-hills which were

seen a-head of us. A hill was now visible in the distance, a little south

of west, rising above the level bank behind the shore,--this was the

first hill, properly so called, that we had met with for many hundreds of

miles, and it tended not a little to cheer us and confirm all previous

impressions relative to the change and improvement in the character of

the country. Our horses were dreadfully fatigued and moved along with

difficulty, and it was as much as we could do to reach the sand-hills we

had seen, though only seven miles away. In our approach to them we passed

through a fine plain full of grass, and of a much better description than

we had met with since leaving Fowler's Bay. Not only was it long and in

the greatest abundance, but there were also mixed with the old grass many

stalks of new and green, the whole forming a rich and luxurious feast for

our horses, such as they had not enjoyed for many a long day. Nearer to

the sand-hills we obtained excellent water by digging, at a depth of five

feet, and only half a mile away from the grass. This place was too

favourable not to be made the most of, and I determined to halt for a day

or two to give our horses the benefit of it, and to enable us to diminish

the weight of meat they had to carry. Whilst here I gave Wylie free

permission to eat as much as he could,--a privilege which he was not long

in turning to account. Between last night's supper and this morning's

breakfast he had got through six-and-a-half pounds of solid cooked flesh,

weighed out and free from bone, and he then complained, that as he had so

little water (the well had fallen in and he did not like the trouble of

cleaning it out again), he could hardly eat at all. On an average he

would consume nine pounds of meat per day. I used myself from two to

three when undergoing very great exertions. After dinner I ascended one

of the sand-hills, and set the hill I had seen in the morning at W. 17

degrees S.

May 12.--I intended this morning to have walked down to the beach, but

was suddenly taken ill with similar symptoms to those I had experienced

on the 19th, and 21st of April; and, as formerly, I attributed the

illness entirely to the unwholesome nature of the meat diet. Wylie was

ill too, but not to so great a degree; nor was I surprised at his

complaining; indeed, it would have been wonderful if he had not,

considering the enormous quantity of horse flesh that he daily devoured.

After his feasts, he would lie down, and roll and groan, and say he was

"mendyt" (ill) and nothing would induce him to get up, or to do any

thing. There were now plenty of sting-ray fish along the beach again, and

I was desirous, if possible, to get one for a change of diet; my friend,

however, had so much to eat, that though he said he should like fish too,

I could not get him to go about a mile to the back of the sand-hills, to

cut a stick from the scrub, to make a spear for catching them.

May 13.--After breakfast, Wylie said he thought he could catch some

bandicoots, by firing the scrub near the sand-hills, and went out for an

hour or two to try, but came back as he went. During his absence, I was

employed in repairing my only two pair of socks now left, which were

sadly dilapidated, but of which I was obliged to be very careful, as they

were the only security I had against getting lame. In the afternoon I

walked down to the beach, to try to spear sting-ray, but the sea was

rough, and I saw none. In my ramble, I found plenty of the beautiful

white clematis, so common both to the north and south of Sydney.

May 14.--I was again seized with illness, though I had been particularly

careful in the quantity of flesh which I had used. For many hours I

suffered most excruciating pains; and after the violence of the attack

was over, I was left very weak, and incapable of exertion. Wylie was also

affected. It was evident that the food we were now living upon, was not

wholesome or nutritious. Day after day we felt ourselves getting weaker

and more relaxed, whilst the least change of weather, or the slightest

degree of cold, was most painfully felt by both of us. What we were to do

in the wet weather, which might daily be expected, I knew not, suffering

as we did from the frosts and dews only. In the state we now were in, I

do not think that we could have survived many days' exposure to wet.

May 15.--I intended to have proceeded early on our journey this morning,

but was so ill again, that for some hours I could not stir. The boy was

similarly situated. About ten we got a little better, and packing up our

things, moved away, but had scarcely gone more than a couple of miles

along the beach, when I discovered that the horse-hobbles had been left

behind. It was Wylie's duty always to take these off, and strap them

round the horses necks, whilst I was arranging the saddles, and fixing on

them our arms, provisions, etc.; he had forgotten to do this, and had left

them lying on the ground. As we could not possibly do without the

hobbles, I sent Wylie back for them, telling him I would drive on the

horses slowly for a few miles, and then halt to wait for him.

After proceeding eleven miles along the coast, I halted, and Wylie came

up a little before dark, bringing the hobbles with him. We were both very

hungry; and as we had suffered so much lately from eating the horse

flesh, we indulged to-night in a piece of bread, and a spoonful of flour

boiled into a paste, an extravagance which I knew we should have to make

up for by and bye. I had dug for water, and procured it at a depth of

five feet; but it was too brackish either to drink, or give to our

horses; we used it, however, in boiling up our flour into paste. The

afternoon was exceedingly dark and stormy looking, but only a few light

showers fell. The night then set in cold, with a heavy dew.

May 16.--We commenced our journey at daylight, travelling along the

beach, which was very heavy for nine miles, and then halting, at a very

low part of the coast, to rest the horses. Whilst here, I dug for water,

and getting it of very fair quality, though with an effluvia very like

Harrowgate water, I decided upon remaining for the day. We were very much

fatigued, being weak and languid, and like our horses, scarcely able to

put one foot before the other. From our present encampment, some islands

were visible at a bearing of S. 18 degrees E. The tops of the hills,

also, to the back, were visible above the level bank, which formed the

continuation of the singular table land extending round the Bight, but

which was now gradually declining in elevation, and appeared as if it

would very shortly cease altogether, so that we might hope to have an

unobstructed view of the country inland.

A jagged peak, which I named Mount Ragged, bore W. 10 degrees N., and a

round topped one W. 30 degrees N. We were now actually beyond those

hills; but the level bank, under which we had been travelling, prevented

our seeing more of them than the bare outline of their lofty summits. The

whole of the intervening country, between the level bank and the hills,

consisted of heavy sandy ridges, a good deal covered with scrub; but we

now found more grass than we had seen during the whole journey before. In

the night I was taken ill again, with violent pains, accompanied by cold

clammy sweats; and as the air was cold and raw, and a heavy dew falling,

I suffered a great deal.

May 17.--This morning I felt rather better, but very weak, and wishing to

give the horses an opportunity of drinking, which they would not do very

early on a cold morning, I did not break up the camp until late. Upon

laying down last night Wylie had left the meat on the ground at some

distance from our fire, instead of putting it up on a bush as I had

directed him, the consequence was that a wild dog had stolen about

fourteen pounds of it whilst we slept, and we were now again reduced to a

very limited allowance.

After travelling about five miles we found a great and important change

in the basis rock of the country; it was now a coarse imperfect kind of

grey granite, and in many places the low-water line was occupied by

immense sheets of it. Other symptoms of improvement also gradually

developed themselves. Mountain ducks were now, for the first time, seen

upon the shore, and the trunk of a very large tree was found washed up on

the beach: it was the only one we had met with during the whole course of

our journey to the westward, and I hailed it with a pleasure which was

only equalled by finding, not far beyond, a few drops of water trickling

down a huge graniterock abutting on the sea-shore. This was the only

approximation to running water which we had found since leaving Streaky

Bay, and though it hardly deserved that name, yet it imparted to me as

much hope, and almost as much satisfaction, as if I had found a river.

Continuing our course around a small bay for about five miles, we turned

into some sand-drifts behind a rocky point of the coast. from which the

islands we had seen yesterday bore E. 47 degrees S., Cape Pasley, S. W.,

Point Malcolm, S. 33 degrees W., and Mount Ragged W. 32 degrees N.

Several reefs and breakers were also seen at no great distance from the

shore.

Our stage to-day was only twelve miles, yet some of our horses were

nearly knocked up, and we ourselves in but little better condition. The

incessant walking we were subject to, the low and unwholesome diet we had

lived upon, the severe and weakening attacks of illness caused by that

diet, having daily, and sometimes twice a day, to dig for water, to carry

all our fire-wood from a distance upon our backs, to harness, unharness,

water, and attend to the horses, besides other trifling occupations,

making up our daily routine, usually so completely exhausted us, that we

had neither spirit nor energy left. Added to all other evils, the nature

of the country behind the sea-coast was as yet so sandy and scrubby that

we were still compelled to follow the beach, frequently travelling on

loose heavy sands, that rendered our stages doubly fatiguing: whilst at

nights, after the labours of the day were over, and we stood so much in

need of repose, the intense cold, and the little protection we had

against it, more frequently made it a season of most painful suffering

than of rest, and we were glad when the daylight relieved us once more.

On our march we felt generally weak and languid--it was an effort to put

one foot before the other, and there was an indisposition to exertion

that it was often very difficult to overcome. After sitting for a few

moments to rest--and we often had to do this--it was always with the

greatest unwillingness we ever moved on again. I felt, on such occasions,

that I could have sat quietly and contentedly, and let the glass of life

glide away to its last sand. There was a dreamy kind of pleasure, which

made me forgetful or careless of the circumstances and difficulties by

which I was surrounded, and which I was always indisposed to break in

upon. Wylie was even worse than myself, I had often much difficulty in

getting him to move at all, and not unfrequently was compelled almost

forcibly to get him up. Fortunately he was very good tempered, and on the

whole had behaved extremely well under all our troubles since we had been

travelling together alone.

Chapter III.

HEAVY ROAD--A YOUNG KANGAROO SHOT--GRASSY COUNTRY--POINT MALCOLM--TRACES

OF ITS HAVING BEEN VISITED BY EUROPEANS--GRASS TREES MET WITH--A KANGAROO

KILLED--CATCH FISH--GET ANOTHER KANGAROO--CRAB HUNTING--RENEW THE

JOURNEY--CASUARINAE MET WITH--CROSS THE LEVEL BANK--LOW COUNTRY BEHIND

IT--CAPE ARID--SALT WATER CREEK--XAMIA SEEN--CABBAGE TREE OF THE

SOUND--FRESH WATER LAKE--MORE SALT STREAMS--OPOSSUMS CAUGHT--FLAG REEDS

FOUND--FRESH WATER STREAMS--BOATS SEEN--MEET WITH A WHALER.

May 18.--THIS morning we had to travel upon a soft heavy beach, and moved

slowly and with difficulty along, and three of the horses were

continually attempting to lie down on the road. At twelve miles, we found

some nice green grass, and although we could not procure water here, I

determined to halt for the sake of the horses. The weather was cool and

pleasant. From our camp Mount Ragged bore N. 35 degrees W., and the

island we had seen for the last two days, E. 18 degrees S. Having seen

some large kangaroos near our camp, I sent Wylie with the rifle to try

and get one. At dark he returned bringing home a young one, large enough

for two good meals; upon this we feasted at night, and for once Wylie

admitted that his belly was full. He commenced by eating a pound and a

half of horse-flesh, and a little bread, he then ate the entrails,

paunch, liver, lights, tail, and two hind legs of the young kangaroo,

next followed a penguin, that he had found dead upon the beach, upon this

he forced down the whole of the hide of the kangaroo after singeing the

hair off, and wound up this meal by swallowing the tough skin of the

penguin; he then made a little fire, and laid down to sleep, and dream of

the pleasures of eating, nor do I think he was ever happier in his life

than at that moment.

May 19.--The morning set in very cold and showery, with the wind from the

southward, making us shiver terribly as we went along; luckily the

country behind the sea-shore was at this place tolerably open, and we

were for once enabled to leave the beach, and keep a little inland. The

soil was light and sandy, but tolerably fertile. In places we found low

brush, in others very handsome clumps of tea-tree scattered at intervals

over some grassy tracts of country, giving a pleasing and park-like

appearance we had long been strangers to. The grass was green, and

afforded a most grateful relief to the eye, accustomed heretofore to rest

only upon the naked sands or the gloomy scrubs we had so long been

travelling amongst. Anxious if possible to give our horses a day or two's

rest, at such a grassy place, and especially as the many kangaroos we

saw, gave us hope of obtaining food for ourselves also, I twice dug for

water, but did not find any of such quality as we could use. I was

compelled therefore to turn in among the sand-hills of Point Malcolm,

where I found excellent water at three and a half feet, and halted for

the day, after a stage of five miles. Unfortunately we were now beyond

all grass, and had to send the horses by a long and difficult road to it,

over steep sandy ridges, densely covered by scrub. Upon halting, one of

our horses lay down, appearing to be very ill, for two hours I could not

get him to rise, and was sadly afraid he would die, which would have been

a serious loss to us, for he was the strongest one we had left. A little

inside Point Malcolm, I found traces of Europeans who had slept on shore

near the beach, and upon one of the tea-trees, I found cut "Ship Julian,

1840," "Haws, 1840," "C. W." and some few other letters, which I did not

copy. The forenoon continued very wild and stormy, with occasional

showers of rain, and as we could get neither firewood nor shelter at our

camp, and the sand eddied around us in showers, we were very miserable.

After dinner, I sent Wylie out with the rifle, to try to shoot a

kangaroo, whilst I took a walk round, to look for grass, and to ascertain

whether water could not be procured in some place nearer the horses, and

better provided with firewood and shelter. My efforts were without

success, nor did I meet with better fortune, in examining Point Malcolm,

to see if there was any place where we could fish from the shore, the

point itself was of granite, but on the sheltered side the water was very

shoal, close to the shore, whilst on the outer side the waves were

breaking with frightful violence, and the spray curling and rising from

the rocks in one perpetual and lofty jet. In the evening Wylie returned

without a kangaroo.

The night turned out showery, wild, and cold, making us keenly alive to

the bleak, shelterless position we were encamped in.

May 20.--The sick horse was better to-day, and as they had all found

their way back to the best grass, I determined to remain in camp. Wylie

took the rifle, and again went out kangarooing, whilst I took a long walk

to examine the country, and look out for a line of road to proceed by,

when we left our present position. I was anxious, if possible, to give

over travelling along the beach where the sands were so loose and heavy,

not only causing great extra fatigue to the horses, but adding also

considerably to the distance we should otherwise have to travel. For some

distance I passed over steep ridges, densely covered with large tea-trees

or with other scrub, after which I emerged upon open sandy downs, covered

with low shrubs or bushes, and frequently having patches of good grass

interspersed; the grass-tree was here met with for the first time, but

not very abundantly. This description of country continued between the

coast and the low level bank which still shut out all view of the

interior, though it had greatly decreased in elevation as we advanced to

the west, and appeared as if it would soon merge in the level of the

country around. The day was tolerably fine, but windy, and a few slight

showers fell at intervals. At dusk I got up the horses, watered them, and

was preparing to remove the baggage to a more sheltered place, when Wylie

made his appearance, with the gratifying intelligence that he had shot

one kangaroo, and wounded another; the dead one he said was too far away

for us to get it to-night, and we, therefore, (very unwillingly,) left it

until the morning, and at present only removed our baggage nearer to the

grass, and among thick clumps of tea-trees where we had shelter and

firewood in abundance. The only inconvenience being that we were obliged

to be economical of water, having to bring it all from the sand-drifts,

and our kegs only carrying a few quarts at a time. In the prospect of a

supply of kangaroo, we finished the last of our horse-flesh to-night. It

had lasted us tolerably well, and though we had not gained above

sixty-five miles of distance, since we commenced it, yet we had

accomplished this so gradually, that the horses had not suffered so much

as might have been expected, and were improving somewhat in strength and

appearance every day. It was much to have got them to advance at all,

considering the dreadful sufferings they had endured previous to our

arrival at water on the 3rd of May.

Getting up one of the horses early on the 21st, we took some water with

us and proceeded to where Wylie had left the kangaroo, to breakfast.

Fortunately it had not been molested by the wild dogs during the night.

Though not of a large species, it was a full grown animal, and furnished

us with a grateful supply of wholesome food. Once more Wylie enjoyed as

much as he could eat, and after breakfast, I took the horse back to the

camp, carrying with me about thirty-two pounds weight of the best and

most fleshy parts of the kangaroo. Wylie remained behind with the rifle,

to return leisurely and try to shoot another; but early in the afternoon

he returned, not having seen one. The truth, I suspect was, that he had

eaten too much to breakfast, and laid down to sleep when I was gone,

coming back to the camp as soon as he felt hungry again. The rest of the

day was taken up in attending to the horses and bringing a supply of

water up for ourselves. The weather was mild and pleasant, and a few

slight showers fell at night, but we were now so well protected among the

tea-trees, and had so much firewood, that we were not inconvenienced by

the rain.

As I still intended to remain in camp to recruit the horses, I wished

Wylie to go out again on the 22nd, to try for another kangaroo; but the

other not being yet all used, he was very unwilling to do so, and it was

only upon my threatening to move on if he did not, that I could get him

out. As soon as he was gone, I went down to Point Malcolm to try to fish,

as the weather was now so much more moderate. Unfortunately, my tackling

was not strong, and after catching three rock-fish, weighing together

three pounds and a half; a large fish got hooked, and took great part of

my line, hook and all, away.

It was very vexing to lose a line when I had not many, but still more so

to miss a fine fish that would have weighed fifteen or sixteen pounds.

Being obliged to come back, I spent the remainder of the afternoon in

preparing lines for the morrow.

Towards evening Wylie returned gloomy and sulky, and without having fired

a shot; neither had he brought the horses up with him to water as I had

requested him to do, and now it was too late to go for them, and they

would have to be without water for the night. I was vexed at this, and

gave him a good scolding for his negligence, after which I endeavoured to

ascertain what had so thoroughly put him out of humour, for ordinarily he

was one of the best tempered natives I had met with: a single sentence

revealed the whole--"The----dogs had eaten the skin."

This observation came from the very bottom of his soul, and at once gave

me an idea of the magnitude of the disappointment he had sustained; the

fact was, upon leaving the camp in the morning he had taken a firestick

in his hand, and gone straight back to where we skinned the kangaroo on

the 21st, with the intention of singeing off the hair and eating the

skin, which had been left hanging over a bush. Upon his arrival he found

it gone: the wild dogs had been beforehand with him and deprived him of

the meal he expected; hence his gloomy, discontented look upon his

return. As yet I had not told him that I had been fishing; but upon

showing him what I had brought home, and giving him the two largest for

supper, his brow again cleared, and he voluntarily offered to go out

again to try to get a kangaroo to-morrow.

May 23.--Leaving Wylie asleep at the camp, I set off early to fish at

Point Malcolm. After catching four rock-fish, weighing five pounds, and

losing several hooks, I commenced hunting about among the rocks for

crabs, of which I procured about a dozen They were quite different from

the English crab, being very small, not more than three or four inches in

diameter, and without any meat in the inside of the shell; but the chine

and claws afforded very fair pickings. Upon returning to the camp, I

learnt from Wylie with great satisfaction that he had shot another

kangaroo as he went to bring up the horses. The latter were now at the

camp; so sending him to water them, I remained behind to dry my clothes,

which had got thoroughly wetted in catching the crabs.

Upon Wylie's return I mounted him on one of the horses, and accompanying

him on foot, proceeded to where he had left the kangaroo; as it was only

one mile and a half away we brought it back upon the horse, entire, that

we might skin it more leisurely at the camp. It was a larger one than the

last, and promised an abundant supply of food for some days; added to

this we had five pounds of fish and a dozen crabs, so that our larder was

well and variously stocked. Upon skinning the kangaroo, Wylie carefully

singed, folded up, and put away the skin for another day, fully

determined that this time he would lose no part of the precious prize.

Having taken the paunch and emptied it, he proceeded to make a kind of

haggis (rather a dirty one to be sure), by putting into it the liver,

lights, heart, and small intestines, and then tying it up, thrust it into

the fire to be roasted whole. This seemed to be a favourite dish with

him, and he was now as happy as a king, sleeping and eating alternately

the whole night long; his only complaint now being that the water was so

far off, and that as we had to carry it all up from the sand-hills to our

camp, he could not drink so much as he should like, and in consequence,

could not eat so much either, for it required no small quantity of liquid

to wash down the enormous masses of meat that he consumed whenever he had

an opportunity.

May 24.--Leaving Wylie to continue his feast and attend to the horses, I

went down to the beach to hunt again for crabs, of which I procured about

three dozen, but still of the same small size as before; a few larger

ones were seen in the deeper clefts of the rocks, but I could not get at

them; indeed, as it was, I was very nearly terminating my crab hunting

and expedition at the same time. The places where these animals were

obtained, were the clefts and holes among large masses and sheets of rock

close to the sea, and which were covered by it at high water; many of

these were like platforms, shelving to the sea, and terminating abruptly

in deep water. Whilst busily engaged upon one of them, in trying to get

some crabs out from its clefts, I did not notice that the surf sometimes

washed over where I stood, until whilst stooping, and in the act of

fishing out a crab, a roller came further than usual and dashing over me,

threw me down and took both me and my crabs to some distance, nearly

carrying us down the steep into the sea, from which nothing could have

rescued me, as I should soon have been dashed to pieces by the breakers

against the rocks. Having gathered up the crabs I had collected, I set

off homewards in a sad cold uncomfortable plight, with the skin scraped

off my hands and one of my heels, and with my shoes in such a state from

scrambling about among the rocks and in the wet, as strongly to indicate

to me the propriety of never attempting to go crab hunting again with my

shoes on, unless I wished to be placed altogether "hors du combat" for

walking. Wylie I found had got up the horses and watered them, and had

brought up a supply of water for the camp, so that we had nothing to do

in the afternoon but boil crabs and eat them, at which occupation I found

him wonderfully more skilful than I was, readily getting through two to

my one.

On the 25th we still remained in camp to take advantage of the abundant

supply of food we had for ourselves, and by giving the horses a long

rest, enable them also to recruit a little upon the excellent grass which

grew in this neighbourhood. Wylie took the rifle out to try to get

another kangaroo, but did not succeed. I remained at home to mend my

boots, and prepare for advancing again to-morrow. In the afternoon we

filled our kegs, and brought away the bucket and spade from the

sand-hills, that we might be ready to move without going again to the

water. For the first time since we left Fowler's Bay we were troubled

with musquitoes.

May 26.--Up early, and Wylie, who had been eating the whole night, was so

thirsty, that he actually walked all the way through the dew and cold of

the morning to the water to drink, as I could only afford him one pint

out of the kegs. We had now been in camp six clear days, at this most

favourable position; we had got an abundant and wholesome supply of

provisions for ourselves, and had been enabled to allow our horses to

enjoy a long unbroken interval of rest, amidst the best of pasturage, and

where there was excellent water. Now that we were again going to continue

our route, I found that the horses were so much improved in appearance

and in strength, that I thought we might once again venture, without

oppression to the animals, occasionally to ride; I selected therefore,

the strongest from among them for this purpose, and Wylie and myself

walked and rode alternately; after passing the scrubby sand-ridges, and

descending to the open downs behind them, I steered direct for Cape Arid,

cutting off Cape Pasley, and encamping after a stage of eighteen miles,

where it bore south-east of us. We halted for the night upon a ridge

timbered with casuarinae, and abounding in grass. Once more we were in a

country where trees were found, and again we were able at night to make

our fires of large logs, which did not incessantly require renewing to

prevent their going out. We had now crossed the level bank which had so

long shut out the interior from us; gradually it had declined in

elevation, until at last it had merged in the surrounding country, and we

hardly knew where it commenced, or how it ended. The high bluff and

craggy hills, whose tops we had formerly seen, stood out now in bold

relief, with a low level tract of country stretching to their base,

covered with dwarf brush, heathy plants and grass-tree, with many

intervals of open grassy land, and abounding in kangaroos. I named these

lofty and abrupt mountain masses the "Russell Range," after the Right

Honourable the Secretary of State for the Colonies--Lord John Russell.

They constitute the first great break in the character and appearance of

the country for many hundreds of miles, and they offer a point of great

interest, from which future researches may hereafter be made towards the

interior. Nearer to the coast, and on either side of Cape Pasley were

sand-drifts, in which I have no doubt that water might have been

procured. We found none where we were encamped, but had sufficient in the

kegs for our own use, and the horses were not thirsty; many and recent

tracks of natives were observed, but the people themselves were not seen.

The morning of the 27th was exceedingly cold; and as we left our

encampments early, neither I nor Wylie were inclined to ride for the

first few miles; it was as much as we could do to keep ourselves from

shivering whilst walking; the dews were so heavy, that we were soon wet

through by the spangles from the shrubs and grass, whilst the pace at

which we travelled was not sufficiently rapid to promote a quick

circulation, and enable us to keep ourselves warm.

At six miles we passed some sand hills, where there was every indication

of water, but I did not think it worth while delaying to try the

experiment in digging, and pushed on for four miles further, round a

bight of the coast, encamping on the east side of Cape Arid, where a

small salt water creek entered the bight. The mouth of this was closed by

a bar of sand, quite dry; nor did the salt water continue for any great

distance inland. Following it up, in the hope of finding fresh water near

its source, I found that there was none now, but that after rains

considerable streams must be poured into it from the gorges of Cape Arid.

The rocks here were all of granite; and in some of the ledges we were

fortunate enough to find abundance of water deposited by the rains, at

which we watered our horses. This being the first time we had ever been

able to do so on our whole journey without making use of the spade and

bucket. After putting the horses out upon the best grass we could find,

Wylie and I went to try our luck at fishing; the sea was boisterous, and

we caught none; but in returning, got about eight or nine crabs a-piece,

which, with some of the kangaroo that was still left, enabled us to make

our fare out tolerably.

May 26.--In the latter part of the night the rain set in moderately, but

steadily, and both Wylie and myself were very wet and miserable. The

morning still continued showery, and I was anxious to have remained in

camp for the sake of the horses; but as we had consumed at breakfast the

last of our kangaroo, it became necessary to find some means of renewing

our resources, or else lose no time in making the best of our way

onwards. Having sent Wylie to try and get crabs, I went out with the

rifle, but could see nothing to shoot; and upon returning to the camp, I

found Wylie had been equally unsuccessful among the rocks, the sea being

too rough; there was no alternative, therefore, but to move on, and

having got up the horses, we proceeded behind Cape Arid for ten miles, at

a course of W. 15 degrees N., and encamped at night amid a clump of

tea-trees, and bastard gums, where we got good grass for our horses, but

no water. The day had been intensely cold, and I could not persuade Wylie

to ride at all. At night we had abundance of firewood, and a few of the

long narrow yams were also found at this encampment, the first vegetable

food we had yet procured. Grass trees had been abundant on our line of

route to-day, and for the first time we met with the Xamia. In the

evening, the kangaroo fly (a small brown fly) became very troublesome,

annoying us in great numbers, and warning us that rain was about to fall.

At night it came in frequent though moderate showers. We got very much

wetted, but our fire was good, and we did not suffer so much from the

cold as the damp, which affected me with cramp in the limbs, and

rheumatism.

May 29.--After breakfasting upon a spoonful of flour a-piece, mixed with

a little water and boiled into a paste, we again proceeded. At ten miles

we came to a small salt water stream, running seawards; in passing up it

to look for a crossing place, Wylie caught two opossums, in the tops of

some tea-trees, which grew on the banks. As I hoped more might be

procured, and perhaps fresh water, by tracing it higher up, I took the

first opportunity of crossing to the opposite side, and there encamped;

Wylie now went out to search for opossums, and I traced the stream

upwards. In my route I passed several very rich patches of land in the

valleys, and on the slopes of the hills enclosing the watercourse. These

were very grassy and verdant, but I could find no fresh water, nor did I

observe any timber except the tea-tree. After tracing the stream until it

had ceased running, and merely became a chain of ponds of salt water, I

returned to the camp a good deal fatigued; Wylie came in soon after, but

had got nothing but a few yams. The general character of the country on

either side the watercourse, was undulating, of moderate elevation, and

affording a considerable extent of sheep pasturage. The cockatoos of King

George's Sound, (without the yellow crest) were here in great numbers.

Kangaroos also abounded; but the country had not brush enough to enable

us to get sufficiently near to shoot them.

During the day Wylie had caught two opossums, and as these were entirely

the fruit of his own labour and skill, I did not interfere in their

disposal; I was curious, moreover, to see how far I could rely upon his

kindness and generosity, should circumstances ever compel me to depend

upon him for a share of what he might procure. At night, therefore, I sat

philosophically watching him whilst he proceeded to get supper ready, as

yet ignorant whether I was to partake of it or not. After selecting the

largest of the two animals, he prepared and cooked it, and then put away

the other where he intended to sleep. I now saw that he had not the

remotest intention of giving any to me, and asked him what he intended to

do with the other one. He replied that he should be hungry in the

morning, and meant to keep it until then. Upon hearing this I told him

that his arrangements were very good, and that for the future I would

follow the same system also; and that each should depend upon his own

exertions in procuring food; hinting to him that as he was so much more

skilful than I was, and as we had so very little flour left, I should be

obliged to reserve this entirely for myself, but that I hoped he would

have no difficulty in procuring as much food as he required. I was then

about to open the flour-bag and take a little out for my supper, when he

became alarmed at the idea of getting no more, and stopped me, offering

the other opossum, and volunteering to cook it properly for me. Trifling

as this little occurrence was, it read me a lesson of caution, and taught

me what value was to be placed upon the assistance or kindness of my

companion, should circumstances ever place me in a situation to be

dependent upon him; I felt a little hurt too, at experiencing so little

consideration from one whom I had treated with the greatest kindness, and

who had been clothed and fed upon my bounty, for the last fifteen months.

May 30.--In commencing our journey this morning, our route took us over

undulating hills, devoid of timber, but having occasionally small patches

of very rich land in the valleys and upon some of the slopes. This

continued to a salt-water river, broad, and apparently deep near the sea.

As I was doubtful whether it would have a bar-mouth to seawards, I

thought it more prudent to trace it upwards, for the purpose of crossing.

At no very great distance it contracted sufficiently to enable me to get

over to the other side. But in doing so the ground proved soft and boggy,

and I nearly lost one of the horses. Four miles beyond this river we came

to another channel of salt water, but not so large as the last. In

valleys sloping down to this watercourse we met, for the first time,

clumps of a tree called by the residents of King George's Sound the

cabbage-tree, and not far from which were native wells of fresh water;

there were also several patches of rich land bordering upon the

watercourse.

Travelling for two miles further, we came to a very pretty fresh-water

lake, of moderate size, and surrounded by clumps of tea-tree. It was the

first permanent fresh water we had found on the surface since we

commenced our journey from Fowler's Bay--a distance of nearly seven

hundred miles. I would gladly have encamped here for the night, but the

country surrounding the lake was sandy and barren, and destitute of

grass. We had only made good a distance of eleven miles from our last

camp, and I felt anxious to get on to Lucky Bay as quickly as I could, in

order that I might again give our horses a rest for a few days, which

they now began to require. From Captain Flinders' account of Lucky Bay I

knew we should find fresh water and wood in abundance. I hoped there

would also be grass, and in this case I had made up my mind to remain a

week or ten days, during which I intended to have killed the foal we had

with us, now about nine months old, could we procure food in no other

way. After leaving Lucky Bay, as we should only be about three hundred

miles from the Sound, and our horses would be in comparatively fresh

condition, I anticipated we should be able to progress more rapidly.

Indeed I fully expected it would be absolutely necessary for us to do so,

through a region which, from Flinders' description as seen from sea, and

from his having named three different hills in it Mount Barrens, we

should find neither very practicable nor fertile.

Six miles beyond the fresh-water lake we came to another salt-water

stream, and finding, upon following up a little way, that it was only

brackish, we crossed and halted for the night. Wylie went out to search

for food, but got nothing, whilst I unharnessed and attended to the

horses, which were a good deal fagged, and then prepared the camp and

made the fires for the night: I could get nothing but grass-tree for this

purpose, but it was both abundant and dry. Owing to its very resinous

nature, this tree burns with great heat and brilliancy, emitting a

grateful aromatic odour. It is easily lit up, makes a most cheerful fire,

and notwithstanding the fervency with which it burns, does not often

require renewing, if the tree be large. Our whole journey to-day had been

over undulations of about three hundred feet in elevation; the country

rose a little inland, and a few occasional bluffs of granite were

observed in the distance, but no timber was seen any where. At night the

flies and mosquitoes were very troublesome to us.

May 31.--The morning showery, and bitterly cold, so that, for the first

two hours after starting, we suffered considerably, After travelling for

seven miles and a half, through an undulating and bare country, we came

to a salt-water river, with some patches of good land about it. Having

crossed the river a little way up where it became narrower, we again

proceeded for five miles farther, through the same character of country,

and were then stopped by another salt stream, which gave us a great deal

of trouble to effect a crossing. We had traced it up to where the channel

was narrow, but the bed was very deep, and the water running strongly

between banks of rich black soil. Our horses would not face this at

first, and in forcing them over we were nearly losing two of them. After

travelling only a quarter of a mile beyond this stream I was chagrined to

find we had crossed it just above the junction of two branches, and that

we had still one of them to get over; the second was even more difficult

to pass than the first, and whilst I was on the far side, holding one of

the horses by a rope, with Wylie behind driving him on, the animal made a

sudden and violent leap, and coming full upon me, knocked me down and

bruised me considerably. One of his fore legs struck me on the thigh, and

I narrowly escaped having it broken, whilst a hind leg caught me on the

shin, and cut me severely.

As soon as we were fairly over I halted for the night, to rest myself and

give Wylie an opportunity of looking for food. The water in both branches

of this river was only brackish where we crossed, and at that which we

encamped upon but slightly so.

There were many grass-trees in the vicinity, and as several of these had

been broken down and were dead they were full of the white grubs of which

the natives are so fond. From these Wylie enjoyed a plentiful, and to

him, luxurious supper. I could not bring myself to try them, preferring

the root of the broad flag-reed, which, for the first time, we met with

at this stream, and which is an excellent and nutritious article of food.

This root being dug up, and roasted in hot ashes, yields a great quantity

of a mealy farinaceous powder interspersed among the fibres; it is of an

agreeable flavour, wholesome, and satisfying to the appetite. In all

parts of Australia, even where other food abounds, the root of this reed

is a favourite and staple article of diet among the aborigines. The

proper season of the year for procuring it in full perfection, is after

the floods have receded, and the leaves have died away and been burnt

off. It is that species of reed of which the leaves are used by coopers

for closing up crevices between the staves of their casks.

June 1.--Upon getting up this morning I found myself very stiff and sore

from the bruises I had received yesterday, yet I felt thankful that I had

escaped so well; had any of my limbs been broken, I should have been in a

dreadful position, and in all probability must have perished. After Wylie

had dug up some of the flag-roots for breakfast, and a few to take with

us, we proceeded on our journey. I was anxious to have made a long stage,

and if possible, to have reached Thistle Cove by night; but the country

we had to pass over was heavy and sandy, and after travelling fifteen

miles, the horses became so jaded, that I was obliged to turn in among

some sand-drifts near the coast, and halt for the night. The course we

had been steering for the last few days towards Lucky Bay, had gradually

brought us close to the coast again, and during a part of our journey

this afternoon we were travelling upon the sea-shore. At ten miles after

starting, we crossed a strong stream of fresh water running through some

sandy flats into the sea; a mile and a half beyond this we crossed a

second stream; and half a mile further a third, all running strongly,

with narrow channels, into the sea, and quite fresh. Fresh water was also

laying about every where on our road in large pools; a proof of the very

heavy rains that had lately fallen. We were, therefore, enjoying the

advantages of a wet season without having been subject to its inclemency,

and which, in our present weak, unprotected state, we could hardly have

endured. The country to the back was sandy and undulating, covered

principally with low shrubs, and rising inland; there were also several

granite bluffs at intervals, from among which, the streams I had crossed,

probably took their rise; but there were no trees to be seen any where,

except a few of the tea of cabbage-trees. I do not think that any of the

three fresh-water streams we had crossed would be permanent, their

present current being owing entirely to the recent rains; but when they

are running, and the weather is moderately fair, they afford an admirable

opportunity of watering a vessel with very little trouble, the water

being clear and pure to its very junction with the sea.

At night we made our supper of the flag-roots we had brought with us, and

a spoonful of flour a-piece, boiled into a paste. The night was very cold

and windy, and having neither shelter nor fire-wood at the sand-drifts

where we were, we spent it miserably.

June 2.--As we had made a shorter stage yesterday than I intended to have

done, and the quantity of flour we had now remaining was very small, I

did not dare to make use of any this morning, and we commenced our

journey without breakfast. Being now near Thistle Cove, where I intended

to halt for some time, and kill the little foal for food, whilst the

other horses were recruiting, and as I hoped to get there early this

afternoon, I was anxious to husband our little stock of flour in the

hope, that at the little fresh-water lake described by Flinders, as

existing there, we should find abundance of the flag-reed for our

support. Keeping a little behind the shore for the first hour, we crossed

over the sandy ridge bounding it, and upon looking towards the sea, I

thought I discovered a boat sailing in the bay. Upon pointing this object

out to Wylie, he was of the same opinion with myself, and we at once

descended towards the shore, but on our arrival were greatly disappointed

at not being able again to see the object of our search. In the course of

half an hour, however, whilst resting ourselves and watching the surface

of the ocean, it again became visible, and soon after a second appeared.

It was now evident that both these were boats, and that we had noticed

them only when standing off shore, and the light shone upon their sails,

and had lost them when upon the opposite tack. It was equally apparent

they were standing out from the main land for the islands. I imagined

them to be sealers, who having entered the bay to procure water or

firewood, were again steering towards the islands to fish. Having hastily

made a fire upon one of the sand-hills, we fired shots, shouted, waved

handkerchiefs, and made every signal we could to attract attention, but

in vain. They were too far away to see, or too busy to look towards us.

The hopes we had entertained were as suddenly disappointed as they had

been excited, and we stood silently and sullenly gazing after the boats

as they gradually receded from our view.

Whilst thus occupied and brooding over our disappointment, we were

surprised to see both boats suddenly lower their sails, and apparently

commence fishing. Watching them steadily we now perceived that they were

whale boats, and once more our hearts beat with hope, for I felt sure

that they must belong to some vessel whaling in the neighbourhood. We now

anxiously scanned the horizon in every direction, and at last were

delighted beyond measure to perceive to the westward the masts of a large

ship, peeping above a rocky island which had heretofore concealed her

from our view. She was apparently about six miles from us, and as far as

we could judge from so great a distance, seemed to be at anchor near the

shore.

Poor Wylie's joy now knew no bounds, and he leapt and skipped about with

delight as he congratulated me once more upon the prospect of getting

plenty to eat. I was not less pleased than he was, and almost as absurd,

for although the vessel was quietly at anchor so near us, with no sails

loose and her boats away, I could not help fearing that she might

disappear before we could get to her, or attract the notice of those on

board. To prevent such a calamity, I mounted one of the strongest horses

and pushed on by myself as rapidly as the heavy nature of the sands would

allow, leaving Wylie at his own especial request to bring on the other

horses. In a short time I arrived upon the summit of a rocky cliff,

opposite to a fine large barque lying at anchor in a well sheltered bay,

(which I subsequently named Rossiter Bay, after the captain of the

whaler,) immediately east of Lucky Bay, and at less than a quarter of a

mile distant from the shore. The people on board appeared to be busily

engaged in clearing their cables which were foul, and did not observe me

at all. I tied up my horse, therefore, to a bush, and waited for Wylie,

who was not long in coming after me, having driven the poor horses at a

pace they had not been accustomed to for many a long day. I now made a

smoke on the rock where I was, and hailed the vessel, upon which a boat

instantly put off, and in a few moments I had the inexpressible pleasure

of being again among civilized beings, and of shaking hands with a

fellow-countryman in the person of Captain Rossiter, commanding the

French Whaler "Mississippi."

Our story was soon told, and we were received with the greatest kindness

and hospitality by the captain.

Chapter IV.

GO ON BOARD THE MISSISSIPPI--WET WEATHER--VISIT LUCKY BAY--INTERVIEW WITH

NATIVES--WYLIE UNDERSTANDS THEIR LANGUAGE--GET THE HORSES SHOD--PREPARE

TO LEAVE THE VESSEL--KINDNESS AND LIBERALITY OF CAPTAIN ROSSITER--RENEW

JOURNEY TO THE WESTWARD--FOSSIL FORMATION STILL CONTINUES--SALT WATER

STREAMS AND LAKES--A LARGE SALT RIVER--CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY.

June 2.--AFTER watering the horses at a deposit left by the rains, in the

sheets of granite near us, and turning them loose, we piled up our little

baggage, and in less than an hour we were comfortably domiciled on board

the hospitable Mississippi,--a change in our circumstances so great, so

sudden, and so unexpected, that it seemed more like a dream than a

reality; from the solitary loneliness of the wilderness, and its

attendant privations, we were at once removed to all the comforts of a

civilised community.

After we had done ample justice to the good cheer set before us, by our

worthy host, he kindly invited us to remain on board as long as we

pleased, to recruit our horses, and told us, that when we felt refreshed

sufficiently to renew the journey, he would supply us with such stores

and other articles as we might require. I learnt that the Mississippi had

but recently arrived from France, and that she had only been three weeks

upon the ground she had taken up for the season's whaling. As yet no

whales had been seen, and the season was said not to commence before the

end of June or beginning of July. The boats I saw in the morning belonged

to her, and had been out chasing what they thought to be a whale, but

which proved to be only a fin-back, a species which was not thought to

repay the trouble of trying out.

Early in the evening the whalers retired to rest, and I had a comfortable

berth provided for me in the cabin, but could not sleep; my thoughts were

too much occupied in reflecting upon the great change which the last few

hours had wrought in the position of myself and my attendant. Sincerely

grateful to the Almighty for having guided us through so many

difficulties, and for the inexpressible relief afforded us when so much

needed, but so little expected, I felt doubly thankful for the mercy we

experienced, when, as I lay awake, I heard the wind roar, and the rain

drive with unusual wildness, and reflected that by God's blessing, we

were now in safety, and under shelter from the violence of the storm, and

the inclemency of the west season, which appeared to be setting in, but

which, under the circumstances we were in but a few short hours ago, we

should have been so little able to cope with, or to endure.

June 3.--I arose at day-break, as I found the whalers breakfasted

betimes, to enable them to send their boats away to look out, at an early

hour. In fact, during the season, I was informed, that it was not unusual

to send them to their posts before the break of day, and especially so,

if other vessels were in company, or there was any competition. After

breakfast I landed with the Captain, to get up and inspect the horses;

poor animals they had not gone far and were doubtless glad at not being

required to march away to-day. I was only sorry that the country did not

abound more in grass. Plenty of water left by the rains was procurable,

in the ledges of the granite rocks, but the vegetation was scanty, the

soil being very sandy, and covered principally with small shrubs, heathy

plants, etc.

Leaving the horses to enjoy their respite from labour, I accompanied the

Captain to see a garden made by the sailors, in which peas and potatoes

had already been planted, and appeared to be growing well. A rich piece

of land had been selected on a slope, bordering upon a salt water creek,

which here wound through the level country towards the sea. The water in

this creek, was brackish in the upper part, but seaward it was quite

salt, it had a bar mouth of sand, which was quite dry. Unfortunately, the

Captain had no garden seeds but the peas and potatoes, so that their

labours were confined to cultivating these; otherwise during the many

months spent by them in bay whaling, they might have abundantly supplied

themselves with a variety of vegetables, at once an agreeable and

wholesome addition to the ordinary diet on board ship. After dinner I

went with the Captain to visit an island near, upon which he kept his

live stock, such as pigs, sheep, and tortoises; the two latter had been

procured from the west side of the island of Madagascar; the sheep were

strange looking animals, more like goats than sheep, of all colours, and

with fat tails, like the Cape sheep. Their cost at Madagascar had been a

tumbler full of powder a piece; a bullock would have cost ten bottles

full, and other things could have been procured at proportionable prices.

The principal articles in request among the Madagases, were said to be

powder, brass headed trunk nails, muskets, gun-flints, clear claret

bottles, looking-glasses, and cutlery.

The greater part of the day was very cold and showery, and I remained

quietly on board, reading some old English papers. Wylie was as happy as

he could be. It was true he did not understand a word spoken by those

around him (for not a soul on board spoke English but the Captain), but

he had as much to eat as he desired; and to do him justice, I believe he

made the most of the opportunity. On the other hand, his capacity for

eating entertained the Frenchmen, with the exception, perhaps, of his

first meal on board, and then, I believe, that the immense number of

biscuits he devoured, and the amazing rapidity with which they

disappeared, not only astounded, but absolutely alarmed them. Fish were

caught in great numbers from the ship's side, mackarel and baracoota

being obtained every day. Other varieties might have been procured off

the rocks near the shore, from which there were many places well adapted

for fishing. Periwinkles abounded, and crabs were numerous among the

crevices of the rocks. Altogether, this seemed to be a most favourable

place; and had we not met with the vessel, it would have held out to us

the prospect of obtaining as abundant a supply of food for ourselves as

we had got at Point Malcolm, without the necessity of destroying the poor

foal. The night again set in very wild, cold, and wet.

June 4.--This morning the weather appeared tolerably fine, and I landed

with the French doctor for the purpose of walking across to Thistle Cove.

After travelling four miles over a sandy heathy country, we arrived at

the pretty little fresh water lake, so accurately described by Captain

Flinders, and which I had so anxiously looked forward to attaining, that

we might halt to rest, and recruit the horses. There is no timber around

the lake, beyond a few xamias, grass trees, and some stunted tea-trees;

neither was there much grass. In other respects, I could not have pitched

upon a more favourable place to have halted at: for near the lake

abounded the flag reed, of which the root was so valuable for food. This

one article would have supported us well during our stay here, whilst the

many bluff rocks, with deep calm water close to them, extending all

around the promontory which projected into the sea, and round the bay,

held out great promise that fish could readily have been caught. Ducks

were also numerous in the lake, and kangaroos on shore. The day turned

out very bleak and wet, and we both got thoroughly soaked through before

we got back to the vessel, which was not until about two in the

afternoon; I was then obliged to borrow a dry suit from the Captain,

whilst my own clothes were drying.

June 5.--From this time until the fourteenth of June I remained on board

the Mississippi, enjoying the hospitality of Captain Rossiter. Wylie went

out once or twice to try to shoot a kangaroo for the ship, but he never

succeeded; he had so much to eat on board that he had no stimulus to

exertion, and did not take the trouble necessary to insure success.

During almost the whole of the time that I remained on board the

Mississippi, the weather was exceedingly boisterous, cold, and wet, and I

could not but feel truly thankful that I had not been exposed to it on

shore; even on board the ship, with shelter and extra clothing, I felt

very sensibly the great change which had taken place in the temperature.

I regretted greatly that during my stay I had not the opportunity of

seeing a whale caught. There was only once an attempt at a chase. In this

instance three boats were sent out, commanded by the Captain and the two

mates, but after a considerable lapse of time, and a long interval of

suspense and anxiety, the fish chased turned out to be a hump-back, and

as this was not deemed worth catching, the boats returned to the ship.

The life led by the whalers, as far as I was able to judge, from the

short time I was with them, seemed to be one of regularity, but of

considerable hardship. At half-past six or seven in the evening they

invariably went to bed, but were up at the first dawn of day, and

sometimes even before it, the boats were then usually sent to a distance

from the ship to look out for whales, and whether fortunate or otherwise,

they would always have a pretty hard day's work before they returned.

They were, however, well fed, being apparently even better dieted than

the generality of merchant-ships; the bread was of a better quality, and

the allowance of butter, cheese, beans, and other little luxuries much

more liberal. In the Mississippi the crew were generally young men, and

with few exceptions all were complete novices at sea; this I was told was

in consequence of an expected war between England and France, and the

prohibition of able seamen from leaving their country. Captain Rossiter

assured me that he had not been allowed for a considerable length of time

to sail at all from France, as the war was daily expected to break out.

He was still ignorant as to what had been done in this respect, and

naturally felt very anxious at being, as he might imagine, on an enemy's

coast.

During the time I remained on board the vessel, a party of natives once

or twice came down to the beach, and as I was anxious to enter into

commucation with them, two were induced to get into the boat and come on

board; as I expected, my boy Wylie fully understood the language spoken

in this part of the country, and could converse with them fluently.

Through him I learnt that they had never seen white people before the

Mississippi anchored here, which was somewhat singular, considering the

frankness with which they visited us, and the degree of confidence they

appeared to repose in us. Of the interior I could gain no satisfactory

account, they said that as far inland as they were acquainted with the

country, it was similar to what we saw, that there was an abundance of

water in the valleys in small wells, that there was a lake and fresh

water river, but that there was little or no wood anywhere. In turn they

were curious to know where we had come from, or where we were going; but

Wylie, who in this respect, at least, was prudent and cautious, told them

that we had come from the eastward to join the ship, and were now going

to remain. Finding I could gain no further useful information, presents

of fish and biscuits were made to them, and they were put on shore,

highly pleased with their visit. During the remainder of my stay, I had

no further opportunity of entering into conversation with these people,

as the weather was generally wild, and they could not procure much

shelter or fire-wood on the coast, had they come down to see us.

A few days before I contemplated commencing the renewal of my journey, I

requested the Captain to allow a blacksmith he had on board to shoe my

horses, and to this he kindly consented, but as a scarcity of iron

prevailed, some old harpoons and lances had to be worked up for this

purpose. The blacksmith who was a Frenchman, made his shoes and nails in

so different, and apparently in so much more clumsy manner than I was

accustomed to, that I was almost afraid of letting him put them on, and

tried hard, but in vain, to get him to imitate the English shoe and nail

in ordinary use.

Finding that I was likely to derive no advantage from my officious

interference, I determined to let him have his own way, and was surprised

and delighted to find that he performed his work well and skilfully, the

only unusual part of the operation to me, being the necessity he appeared

to be under, of always having a man to hold up the leg of the horse

whilst he put the shoe on, instead of holding the foot up himself, as an

English blacksmith does; such however, he assured me was the practice

always in France, and he appeared to think it the best too. Having had my

horses shod, I got some canvass from the Captain, to make bags for

carrying my provisions, and then giving him a list of stores that I

wished to take with me, I commenced preparations for leaving my

hospitable entertainer. Every thing that I wished for, was given to me

with a kindness and liberality beyond what I could have expected; and it

gives me unfeigned pleasure, to have it now in my power to record thus

publicly the obligations I was under to Captain Rossiter.

On the 14th, I landed the stores, to arrange and pack them ready for the

journey. They consisted of forty pounds of flour, six pounds of biscuit,

twelve pounds of rice, twenty pounds of beef, twenty pounds of pork,

twelve pounds of sugar, one pound of tea, a Dutch cheese, five pounds of

salt butter, a little salt, two bottles of brandy, and two tin saucepans

for cooking; besides some tobacco and pipes for Wylie, who was a great

smoker, and the canteens filled with treacle for him to eat with rice.

The great difficulty was now, how to arrange for the payment of the

various supplies I had been furnished with, as I had no money with me,

and it was a matter of uncertainty, whether the ship would touch at any

of the Australian colonies. Captain Rossiter however, said that he had

some intention of calling at King George's Sound, when the Bay whaling

was over, and as that was the place to which I was myself going, I gave

him an order upon Mr. Sherratt, who had previously acted as my agent

there in the transaction of some business matters in 1840. To this day,

however, I have never learnt whether Captain Rossiter visited King

George's Sound or not.

In arranging the payment, I could not induce the Captain to receive any

thing for the twelve days' that we had been resident in the ship, nor

would he allow me to pay for some very comfortable warm clothing, which

he supplied me with, both for myself and Wylie. Independently too of the

things which I had drawn from the ship's stores, Captain Rossiter

generously and earnestly pressed me to take any thing that I thought

would be serviceable to me from his own private stock of clothes. The

attention and hospitality shewn me, during my stay on board the vessel,

and the kindness and liberality which I experienced at my departure, will

long be remembered by me with feelings of gratitude. In the evening I

slept on shore, and got every thing ready for commencing my labours again

in the morning.

June 15.--Early this morning the boat came on shore for me, and I went on

board to take a farewell breakfast, in the Mississippi, and to wish good

bye to her kind-hearted people. At eight I landed with the Captain, got

up my horses and loaded them, a matter of some little time and trouble,

now my stock of provisions and other things was so greatly augmented; in

addition too to all I had accumulated before, the Captain insisted now

upon my taking six bottles of wine, and a tin of sardines.

Having received a few letters to be posted at Albany for France, I asked

the Captain if there was anything else I could do for him, but he said

there was not. The only subject upon which he was at all anxious, was to

ascertain whether a war had broken out between France and England or not.

In the event of this being the case, he wished me not to mention having

seen a French vessel upon the coast, and I promised to comply with his

request.

After wishing my kind host good bye, and directing Wylie to lead one of

the horses in advance, I brought up the rear, driving the others before

me. Once again we had a long and arduous journey before us, and were

wending our lonely way through the unknown and untrodden wilds. We were,

however, in very different circumstances now, to what we had been in

previous to our meeting with the French ship. The respite we had had from

our labours, and the generous living we had enjoyed, had rendered us

comparatively fresh and strong. We had now with us an abundance, not only

of the necessaries, but of the luxuries of life; were better clothed, and

provided against the inclemency of the weather than we had been; and

entered upon the continuation of our undertaking with a spirit, an

energy, and a confidence, that we had long been strangers to.

From the great additional weight we had now to carry upon the horses, we

were again obliged to give up riding even in turn, and had both to walk.

This was comparatively of little consequence, however, now we were so

well provided with every thing we could require, and the country appeared

to be so well watered, that we could arrange our stages almost according

to our own wishes.

Steering to the north-west we passed over a sandy country, covered with

low heathy plants, and grasstrees, and having granite elevations

scattered over its surface at intervals. Under these hills fresh water

swamps and native wells were constantly met with, and at one of them we

encamped for the night, after a stage of about four miles.

During the day, we passed a variety of beautiful shrubs, and among them

were many different kind of Banksias, one was quite new to me, and had a

scarlet flower, which was very handsome. The fossil formation still

constituted the geological character of the country, most of the lower

ridges of rock intervening between the various hills of granite,

exhibiting shells in great abundance. In the more level parts, the

surface was so coated over with sand, that nothing else could be seen. I

have no doubt, however, that the whole of the substrata would have been

found an uninterrupted continuation of the tertiary deposit.

At night I observed native fires about a mile from us, in a direction

towards the sea; but the natives did not come near us, nor was I myself

anxious to come into communication with them whilst my party was so

small.

The evening had set in with steady rain, which continuing with little

intermission during the night, wet us considerably.

June 16.--This morning, I found I had caught cold, and was very unwell.

Upon leaving the encampment, we steered N. 30 degrees W. to clear a rocky

hill, passing which, on our left at six miles, we changed the course to

W. 10 degrees N. Three miles from the hill, we crossed a small stream of

brackish water running very strongly towards the sea, and then halted for

the day upon it, after a short stage. The country we had traversed in our

route, still consisted of the same sandy plains and undulations, covered

with low shrubs, heathy plants, grass and cabbage-trees, with here and

there elevations of granite, and fresh water swamps: in and around which,

the soil was black and very rich; very little wood was to be met with

anywhere, and nothing that deserved the appellation of trees.

The country, inland, appeared to rise gradually, but did not seem to

differ in character and features from that we were traversing.

June 17.--A little before daylight it commenced raining, and continued

showery all day, and though we got wet several times, we experienced

great comfort from the warm clothing we had obtained from Captain

Rossiter. Upon ascending the hills, above our camp, which confined the

waters of the little stream we were upon, we could trace its course

south-west by south, to a small lake lying in the same direction, and

which it appeared to empty into. A second small lake was observable to

the north-west of the first. Two and a half miles from our camp, we

passed a granite elevation, near which, were many fresh swamps,

permanently, I think, abounding in water and having much rich and grassy

land around, of which the soil was a deep black, and but little mixed

with sand. For the next three miles and a half, our route lay over a rich

swampy grassy land, and we were literally walking all the way in water

left by the rains; besides crossing in that distance two fresh water

streams, running strongly towards the sea, and both emptying into small

lakes seen under the coast ridges. The largest of these two was one yard

and a half wide and a foot deep, and appeared of a permanent character.

We now ascended an undulating and rather more elevated tract of country

of an oolitic limestone formation, most luxuriantly clothed with the

richest grass, and having several lakes interspersed among the hollows

between the ridges. Near this we halted for the night under some of the

coast sand-hills, after a day's stage of twelve miles. We had splendid

feed for our horses, but were without any water for ourselves, being

unable to carry any with us, as the canteens were full of treacle. From

our camp, a peak, near Cape le Grand, bore E. 33 degrees S.

June 18.--During the night heavy showers had fallen, and in the oilskins

we caught as much water as sufficed for our tea. After breakfast we

proceeded onwards, and at a little more than three miles came to the

borders of a large salt lake, lying southwest and north-east, and being

one of two noted by Captain Flinders as having been copied into his map

from a French chart. Following the borders of the lake for a mile we

found abundance of fresh water under the banks by which it was inclosed,

and which, judging from the rushes and grasses about it, and the many

traces of native encampments, I imagine to be permanent. The lake itself

was in a hollow sunk in the fossil formation, which was now very clearly

recognisable in the high banks surrounding the lake, and which varied

from sixty to a hundred and fifty feet in elevation, and were generally

pretty steep towards the shore. The day being fine I halted at this place

to re-arrange the loads of the horses and take bearings.

A year had now elapsed since I first entered upon the Northern

Expedition. This day twelve months ago I had left Adelaide to commence

the undertaking, cheered by the presence and good wishes of many friends,

and proudly commanding a small but gallant party--alas, where were they

now? Painful and bitter were the thoughts that occupied my mind as I

contrasted the circumstances of my departure then with my position now,

and when I reflected that of all whose spirit and enterprise had led them

to engage in the undertaking, two lone wanderers only remained to attempt

its conclusion.

June 19.--The dew was very heavy this morning, and we did not start until

rather late, travelling through a very grassy country, abounding in fresh

swamps of a soft peaty soil, and often with the broad flag-reed growing

in them. All these places were boggy and impassable for horses. In

attempting to cross one a horse sunk up to his haunches, and we had much

difficulty in extricating him. At five miles from our camp we ascended

some high ridges of an oolitic limestone formation, which were partially

covered by drift-sand, and in the distance looked like the ridge of a sea

shore. From their summit Cape le Grand bore E. 27 degrees S., the peak

called by the French the "Chapeau," E. 23 degrees S., and the head of the

salt-water lake E. 10 degrees S. We had now a succession of barren, sandy

and stony ridges for more than three miles, and as there was but little

prospect of our finding permanent water in such a miserable region, I

took the opportunity of halting at a little rain water deposited in a

hole of the rocks; here we procured enough for ourselves, but could not

obtain any for the horses. Our camp not being far from the coast, I

walked after dinner to the sand-hills to take bearings. Several islands

were visible, of which the centres were set at S. 10 degrees W., S. 26

degrees W., E. 41 degrees S., E. 44 degrees S. and S. 33 degrees E.

respectively; the west point of a bay bore S. 51 degrees W. the eastern

point E. 36 degrees S. Upon digging for water under the sand-hills it was

found to be salt.

June 20.--Rain fell lightly but steadily until one P.M., making it very

disagreeable travelling through the rugged and stony ridges we had to

encounter, and which were a good deal covered with scrub and brush. About

four miles from our camp of last night we crossed high stony ridges, and

immediately beyond came to some steep sand-drifts, among the hollows of

which I dug for water, but at five feet was stopped by rock. The scrubby,

hilly, and rugged nature of the back country, generally about three

hundred feet above the level of the sea, now compelled me to keep the

beach for five miles, from which I was then again driven by the hills

terminating abruptly towards the sea, and forcing me to scale a steep

stony range, which for four miles and a half kept us incessantly toiling

up one rugged ascent after another. We then came to an extensive hollow,

being a partial break in the fossil formation, and having two large lakes

and many smaller ones interspersed over its surface. Around the margins

of the lakes we again found timber--the tea-tree and the bastard gum. The

water in the lakes was salt, but some slight elevations of granite

afforded us in their hollows an abundance of water for ourselves and

horses. The traces of natives were numerous and recent, but yet we saw

none. Swans, ducks, and wild fowl of various kinds were in great numbers,

and kept up an unceasing noise at night whilst passing from one lake to

the other. Our stage had been twelve miles and a half, but the hilly and

rugged nature of the road had made it severe upon the horses, whilst the

wet overhead and the wet grass under our feet made it equally harassing

to ourselves. From our encampment some white drifts in the coast line

bore S. 35 degrees E., and probably were the "white streak in the

sand-hills" of Flinders.

June 21.--We did not get away until late, but the dew had been so heavy

during the night that even then the shrubs and bushes wet us completely

through, and made our journey cold and miserable. After travelling a

short distance we lost all symptoms of grass, and the country was again

sandy and barren, and covered with shrubs and heathy plants. In this

region we passed two native women and a boy, within gun-shot of us; but

as they were so intent upon their occupation of digging roots, and did

not notice us, I was unwilling to alarm them, and we passed silently by.

At six miles we came to a fine deep hole of excellent water about thirty

yards in circumference. It was situated in a narrow, short, but steep and

rocky gorge, and is, I think, permanent. Four miles beyond this we

crossed a chain of salt ponds, trending seawards, towards an apparent gap

in the coast-line; and six miles further another. Upon the latter we

halted for the night, as there was good grass for the horses, and

brackish water was procurable a little way up the stream, where it

divided into branches. The constant travelling in the wet for the last

few days began now to affect our limbs considerably, and upon halting at

nights we found our feet always much swollen, and our legs generally

stiff and cramped.

June 22.--A very heavy dew fell in the night, and we were again condemned

to wade for three hours up to our middle among the wet brush; after which

the day became fine, and we got our clothes dried. Travelling for two and

a half miles, we crossed another small brackish chain of ponds, and then

ascending rather higher ground, obtained a view of a large lake under the

sand-hills, into which the channel we encamped upon last night emptied

itself. The lake appeared as if it were deep, and its dark blue colour

led me to imagine there might be a junction with the sea towards the

south-west, where the low appearance of the coast ridge indicated a gap

or opening of some kind. At four miles from our last night's encampment

we were stopped by a large salt-water river, fully a hundred yards wide,

and increasing to three or four times that size as it trended to its

junction with the large lake, and which was visible from the hills above

the river. This river was deep where we first struck upon it, but

appeared to be much more so towards the lake, where the water was of a

dark blue colour, as was that also of the lake itself. This confirmed me

in my opinion that there must be a junction with the sea; but

unfortunately I was obliged to trace its course upwards, for the purpose

of crossing, and the circumstances under which I was travelling precluded

me from delaying, or going so far back out of my way to examine its

mouth. I dared not leave Wylie in charge of the camp for the time

necessary for me to have gone alone; and to take the horses such a

distance, and through a rough or heavy country, on the uncertainty of

procuring for them either grass or water, would have been a risk which,

in their condition, I did not think myself justified in incurring.

After tracing the river northerly for two miles and a half, I found it

divided into two branches, and though these were still of considerable

size, yet a ledge of rocks extending across the channels enabled us to

effect a passage to the other side. At the place where we crossed, the

stream running over the rocks was only slightly brackish, and we watered

our horses there; had we traced it a little further it might possibly

have been quite fresh, but we had no time for this, for Wylie having

taken charge of the horses but for a few moments, whilst I had been

examining the river for a crossing place, contrived to frighten them all

in some way or other, and set them off at a gallop; the result was, that

our baggage was greatly disturbed, and many things knocked off and

damaged, whilst it took us some time again to get our horses and

re-arrange the loads.

The valley through which the river took its course, was rocky, with

sheets of granite extending in many places to the water's edge. There was

abundance of good grass, however, and in its upper branches, probably,

there might have been some considerable extent of pasturage. The trees

growing upon the margin, were the paper-barked tea-tree, and the bastard

gum.

Leaving the river, and proceeding over an undulating sandy country,

without timber, but covered with shrubs, we passed at six miles between

two small lakes, and in three more descended to a deep valley among

granite rocks; here we encamped after a stage of sixteen miles, with

plenty of fresh water in pools, and very fair grass for the horses, about

a mile and a half before we halted, we had obtained a view to seawards,

and I set the "Rocky Islets" at a bearing of S. 25 degrees W.

The character of the country generally, through which we travelled

to-day, was very similar to that we had so long been traversing. Its

general elevation above the level of the sea, was about three hundred

feet, and to a distant observer, it seemed to be a perfect table land,

unbroken to the horizon, and destitute of all timber or trees, except

occasionally a few cabbage-trees, grass-trees, or minor shrubs; it was

also without grass. Upon crossing this region deep gorges or valleys are

met with, through which flow brackish or salt-water streams, and shading

these are found the tea-tree and the bastard gum. The steep banks which

inclose the valleys, through which the streams take their course, and

which until lately we had found of an oolitic limestone, now exhibited

granite, quartz, sandstone or iron-stone.

June 23.--Our horses having rambled some distance back upon our

yesterday's tracks, it was late when they were recovered, and we did not

get away until eleven. After travelling a mile and a half, we crossed a

stream of most excellent water running over a bed of granite, in which

were some large deep pools with reeds growing around their margins. A

branch of this watercourse was crossed a little further on, but was quite

dry where we passed it.

Nine miles from our last night's camp a view of the "Rocky Islets" was

obtained from a hill, and set at due south. Immediately on descending

from the hill we crossed a salt chain of ponds in a bed of sandstone and

ironstone, and nine miles beyond this we came to another, also of salt

water; here we halted for the night as there was tolerable grass for the

horses, and we were fortunate enough to discover fresh water in a granite

rock.

In the course of the afternoon I obtained a view of a very distant hill

bearing from us W.8 degrees S. This I took to be the east Mount Barren of

Flinders; but it was still very far away, and the intervening country

looked barren and unpromising. During the day our route had still been

over the same character of country as before, with this exception, that

it was more stony and barren, with breccia or iron-stone grit covering

the surface. The streams were less frequently met with, and were of a

greatly inferior character, consisting now principally of only chains of

small stagnant ponds of salt water, destitute of grass, and without any

good soil in the hollows through which they took their course. Many of

these, and especially those we crossed in the latter part of the day,

were quite dry, and appeared to be nothing more than deep gutters washed

by heavy rains between the undulations of the country.

The rock formation, where it was developed, was exclusively sandstone or

ironstone, with inferior granite; and even the higher levels, which had

heretofore been of a sandy nature, were now rugged and stony, and more

sterile than before; the grasstrees, which generally accommodate

themselves to any soil, were stunted and diminutive, and by no means so

abundant as before. The general elevation of the country still appeared

to be the same. I estimated it at about three hundred feet.

One circumstance, which struck me as rather singular, with regard to the

last forty miles of country we had traversed, was, that it did not appear

to have experienced the same weather as there had been to the eastward.

The little water we found deposited in the rocks, plainly indicated that

the late rains had either not fallen here at all, or in a much less

degree than they had, in the direction we had come from; whilst the dry

and withered state of any little grass that we found, convinced me that

the earlier rains had still been more partial, so great was the contrast

between the rich luxuriance of the long green grass we had met with

before, and the few dry withered bunches of last year's growth, which we

fell in with now.

Chapter V.

LARGE WATERCOURSE--LAKE OF FRESH WATER--HEAVY RAINS--REACH MOUNT

BARREN--SALT LAKES AND STREAMS--BARREN SCRUBBY COUNTRY--RANGES BEHIND

KING GEORGE'S SOUND ARE SEEN--BRACKISH PONDS--PASS CAPE RICHE--A LARGE

SALT RIVER--CHAINS OF PONDS--GOOD LAND--HEAVILY TIMBERED COUNTRY--COLD

WEATHER--FRESH LAKE--THE CANDIUP RIVER--KING'S RIVER--EXCESSIVE

RAINS--ARRIVAL AT KING GEORGE'S SOUND AND TERMINATION OF THE

EXPEDITION--RECEPTION OF WYLIE BY THE NATIVES.

June 24.--UPON moving on early this morning, we crossed the bed of a

considerable watercourse, containing large deep pools of brackish water,

but unconnected at present by any stream. The late hour at which we

halted last night had prevented us from noticing this larger chain of

ponds, and of which, that we were encamped upon formed only a branch. The

country we now passed through, varied but little in character, except

that the shrubs became higher, with a good deal of the Eucalyptus dumosa

intermingled with them, and were entangled together by matted creepers or

vines, which made it extremely difficult and fatiguing to force a way

through. The whole was very sterile, and without grass.

After travelling nine miles, we passed on our right a small lake of fresh

water; and two miles beyond this another, about a mile in circumference,

but deep, and evidently of a permanent character. Close to this fresh

water lake was another, divided from it by only a narrow neck of land,

and yet the latter was as salt as the sea. We had only made a short stage

as yet; but as there was a little food for the horses near the lake, I

thought it more prudent to halt there than run the risk of being left

without in the wretched looking country before us,

The Mount Barren ranges were observed again, but the weather was cloudy,

so that I could make nothing out distinctly. In the afternoon, Wylie shot

three teal, of which there were numbers on the lake. At night, our

baggage and clothes had nearly all been destroyed by fire, a spark having

been carried by the wind to the tarpaulin which covered them, and which,

as it had been but newly tarred, was soon in a blaze. I was fortunate

enough, however, to observe the accident in time to save our other

effects.

June 25.--We commenced our journey early, but had not gone far before the

rain began to fall, and continued until ten o'clock. Occasionally the

showers came down in perfect torrents, rendering us very cold and

miserable, and giving the whole country the appearance of a large puddle.

We were literally walking in water; and by stooping down, almost any

where as we went along, could have dipped a pint pot half full. It was

dreadful work to travel thus in the water, and with the wet from the long

brush soaking our clothes for so many hours; but there was no help for

it, as we could not find a blade of grass for our horses, to enable us to

halt sooner. The surface of the whole country was stony and barren in the

extreme. A mile from our camp, we passed a small salt lake on our left;

and at fifteen miles more, came to a valley with some wiry grass in it.

At this I halted, as there was no prospect of getting better grass, and

the water left by the rains was abundant. The latter, though it had only

fallen an hour or two, was in many places quite salt, and the best of it

brackish, so thoroughly saline was the nature of the soil upon which it

had been deposited.

As the afternoon proved fine, I traced down the valley we were upon to

its junction with a stream flowing over a granite bed, about a mile from

our camp. In this the pools of water were large, deep, and brackish, but

there was plenty of fresh water left by the rains in holes of the rocks

upon its banks. As, however, there did not appear to be better grass upon

the larger channel, than in the valley where we were, I did not think it

worth while to remove our camp.

June 26.--I determined to remain in camp today to rest the horses, and to

enable me to arrange their loads, so that Wylie and I might again ride

occasionally. We had both walked for the last eleven days, during which

we had made good a distance of 134 miles from Rossiter Bay, and as I

calculated we ought under ordinary circumstances to reach the Sound in

ten days more, I thought that we might occasionally indulge in riding,

and relieve ourselves from the great fatigue we had hitherto been subject

to, especially as the horses were daily improving in strength and

condition.

Whilst I was engaged in making the necessary preparations, and throwing

away some things which I thought we could dispense with, such as our

bucket, some harness, ammunition, cooking utensils, and sundry other

things, Wylie took the rifle, and went down to the watercourse to shoot.

On his return in the afternoon he produced four teal and a black swan, as

the produce of his day's sport; he had, however, shot away every charge

of shot from the belt, which had been filled on board the Mississippi,

and held three pounds and a half, besides three ball cartridges; how

often he fired at the swan before he got it I could never discover, but I

heard shot after shot as fast as he could load and fire for some time,

and he himself acknowledged to firing at it seven times, but I suspect it

to have been nearer twice seven.

To-day we were obliged to fetch up what water we required for our own

use, from the holes in the granite rocks near the river, that lying on

the ground near our camp being too salt for use.

June 27.--Upon moving on this morning we passed towards the Mount Barren

ranges for ten miles through the same sterile country, and then observing

a watercourse coming from the hills, I became apprehensive I should

experience some difficulty in crossing it near the ranges, from their

rocky and precipitous character, and at once turned more southerly to

keep between the sea and a salt lake, into which the stream emptied

itself. After getting nearly half round the lake, our progress was

impeded by a dense and most difficult scrub of the Eucalyptus dumosa.

Upon entering it we found the scrub large and strong, and growing very

close together, whilst the fallen trees, dead wood, and sticks lying

about in every direction, to the height of a man's breast, rendered our

passage difficult and dangerous to the horses in the extreme. Indeed,

when we were in the midst of it, the poor animals suffered so much, and

progressed so little, that I feared we should hardly get them either

through it or back again. By dint of great labour and perseverance we

passed through a mile of it, and then emerging upon the beach followed it

for a short distance, until steep rocky hills coming nearly bluff into

the sea, obliged us to turn up under them, and encamp for the night not

far from the lake. Here our horses procured tolerable grass, whilst we

obtained a little fresh water for ourselves among the hollows of the

rocks.

Our stage had been about thirteen miles, and our position was S. 30

degrees E. from East Mount Barren, the hills under which we were encamped

being connected with that range. Most properly had it been called Mount

Barren, for a more wretched aridlooking country never existed than that

around it. The Mount Barren ranges are of quartz or reddish micaceous

slate, the rocks project in sharp rugged masses, and the strata are all

perpendicular.

June 28.--Upon getting up this morning we saw the smoke of native fires

along the margin of the lake, at less than a mile from us. They had

already noticed our fire, and called out repeatedly to us, but as I did

not wish to come into communication with them at all, I did not reply.

Soon afterwards we saw them in the midst of the lake carrying boughs, and

apparently fishing. Three miles from the lake we crossed a small salt

stream, and a mile further another. Four miles beyond the latter we came

to a very deep narrow salt lake, swarming with swans, pelicans, and

ducks. As the passage between the lake and the sea appeared to be

scrubby, and very similar to that we had found so much difficulty in

passing yesterday, I turned to the north-west to head it inland; but had

not proceeded far before I found our progress stopped by a large

salt-water stream, which joined the lake, and whose course was through

steep precipitous ravines. By following the river upwards I came to a

place where we could descend into its basin, and as the water there,

though brackish, was still drinkable, I halted for the night after a

stage of fourteen miles. The horses were a good deal tired with the rough

hilly road they had passed over, and having been without water last

night, stood greatly in need of rest.

In the afternoon Wylie took the rifle to shoot some of the swans and

ducks around us, but was not successful. I remained at the camp, breaking

down and clearing a passage amongst the shrubs and trees which grew in

the rocky bed of the watercourse, to enable us to get our horses readily

across to-morrow. Our position bore S. W. from East Mount Barren, E. from

a bluff range three miles from us, and N. 55 degrees E. from some high

hills in the direction of Middle Mount Barren. The course of the stream

we were encamped upon being nearly north and south.

June 29.--Having found so much difficulty in keeping between the hills

and the sea, I determined now to keep more inland, and steering W. 20

degrees N., headed all ranges in four miles. From this point East Mount

Barren bore E. 20 degrees N., and as I was now clear of hills in front, I

changed my course to W. 20 degrees S., passing through a barren worthless

country for eleven miles, and encamping upon a deep ravine, in which we

procured brackish water. Our horses were greatly fagged. From our camp

West Mount Barren bore S. 41 degrees W.

June 30.--For the first ten miles to-day we had a very bad road, over

steep stony ridges and valleys, covered for the most part with dense gum

scrub. The surface was strewed over with rough pebbles or ironstone grit,

and was broken a good deal into steep-faced ridges and deep hollows, as

if formed so by the action of water. The formation of these precipitous

banks appeared to be an ochre of various colours--red and yellow, and of

a soft friable description. At ten miles we crossed a watercourse with

many pools of brackish water in it, trending to a lake visible under the

coast ridge. There was good grass near this, and many kangaroos were

seen, but as no fresh water could be obtained, we passed on, and at three

miles further came to a hole of rain-water in a rocky gorge, but here

there was not a blade of grass. Hoping to meet with more success further

on, we still advanced for twelve miles, until night compelled us at last

to encamp without either grass or water, both ourselves and our horses

being greatly fatigued.

In the evening we obtained a view of some high rugged and distant ranges,

which I at once recognised as being the mountains immediately behind King

George's Sound. At last we could almost say we were in sight of the

termination of our long, harassing, and disastrous journey. Early in the

morning I had told Wylie that I thought we should see the King George's

Sound hills before night, but he at the time appeared rather sceptical;

when, however, they did break upon our view, in picturesque though

distant outline, his joy knew no bounds. For the first time on our

journey he believed we should really reach the Sound at last. The

cheering and not-to-be-mistaken view before him had dissipated all his

doubts. Once more he gazed upon objects that were familiar to him; the

home of his childhood was before him, and already almost in fancy he was

there, and amongst his friends; he could think, or talk of nothing else,

and actually complimented me upon the successful way in which I had

conducted him to the end of his journey. From our camp the distant ranges

bore W. 5 degrees S., and West Mount Barren E. 5 degrees S.

July 1.--After travelling three miles we came to a chain of large ponds

of brackish water, but with excellent grass around them, and as the

horses had nothing to eat or drink last night we halted for three hours.

The water was bad, but they drank it, and we were obliged to do so too,

after an ineffectual search for better. At noon we again moved on, and

after proceeding about five miles, came to a large watercourse where the

water was excellent, and the feed abundant. Here we halted for the night,

to make our horses amends for the bad fare and hard work of yesterday.

From the hill above our camp West Mount Barren bore E. 8 degrees N.,

Middle Mount Barren E. 21 degrees N., and Rugged Mountains behind the

Sound, W. 4 degrees S. The watercourse we were upon, like all those we

had lately crossed, had perpendicular cliffs abutting upon it, either on

one side or the other, and the channel through which it wound looked

almost like a cut made through the level country above it. A few

casuarinae were observed in parts of the valley, being the first met with

since those seen near Cape Arid.

July 2.--Our route to-day lay through a country much covered with

gum-scrub, banksias, and other shrubs, besides occasionally a few patches

of stunted gum-trees growing in clumps in small hollows, where water

appeared to lodge after rains. At two miles we crossed a small

watercourse, and at fifteen further, came to a deep valley with fine

fresh-water pools in it, and tolerable feed around; here we halted for

the night. The valley we were upon (and one or two others near) led to a

much larger one below, through which appeared to take its course the

channel of a considerable watercourse trending towards a bight in the

coast at S. 17 degrees W.

Some high land, seen to the southward and westward of us, I took to be

Cape Riche, a point I should like greatly to have visited, but did not

think it prudent to go so far out of my direct course, in the

circumstances I was travelling under.

July 3.--Upon commencing our journey to-day I found our route was much

intersected by deep ravines and gorges, all trending to the larger valley

below, and where I had no doubt a large chain of ponds, and probably much

good land, would have been found. After proceeding four miles and a half,

we were stopped by a large salt-water river, which seemed to be very deep

below where we struck it, and trended towards a bight of the coast where

it appeared to form a junction with the sea.

Many oyster and cockle shells were on its shore. This was the largest

river we had yet come to, and it gave us much trouble to cross it, for,

wherever it appeared fordable, the bed was so soft and muddy, that we

dared not venture to take our horses into it. By tracing it upwards for

eight miles, we at last found a rocky shelf extending across, by which we

were enabled to get to the other side. At the point where we crossed, it

had become only a narrow rocky channel; but there was a strong stream

running, and I have no doubt, higher up, the water might probably have

been quite fresh. Its waters flowed from a direction nearly of

west-north-west, and appeared to emanate from the high rugged ranges

behind King George's Sound. The country about the lower or broad part of

this river, as far as I traced it, was rocky and bad; but higher up,

there was a good deal of grass, and the land appeared improving. In the

distance, the hills seemed less rocky and more grassy, and might probably

afford fair runs for sheep. Upon the banks of the river were a few

casuarinae and more of the tea-tree, and bastard gum, than we had seen

before upon any other watercourse.

Upon crossing the river, we found the country getting more wooded, with a

stunted-looking tree, apparently of the same species as the stringy bark,

with bastard gums, and large banksias, the intervals being filled up with

grass-trees and brush, or shrubs, common at King George's Sound. At dark

we could find no water, and I therefore pushed on by moonlight, making

Wylie lead one of the horses whilst I drove the rest after him. At nine

o'clock, we came to a deep valley with plenty of water and grass in it,

and here we halted for the night, after a stage of full thirty miles. The

early part of the morning had been very wet, and it continued to rain

partially for the greatest part of the day, rendering us very cold and

uncomfortable. At night it was a severe frost.

July 4.--Our horses having been a good deal fagged yesterday, I did not

disturb them early, and it was nearly noon when we moved away from our

encampment, crossing the main watercourse, of which the ponds we were

upon last night were only a branch. In the larger channel, there were

many fine pools of water, connected by a strongly running stream in a

deep narrow bed, and which wound at a course of E. 25 degrees S. through

a valley of soft, spongy, peaty formation, and over which we had much

trouble in getting our horses, one having sunk very deep, and being with

difficulty extricated. After travelling two miles and a half, we obtained

a view of Bald Island, bearing S. 15 degrees W.; and in two miles and a

half more, we crossed a fine chain of ponds, taking its course through

narrow valleys between hills of granite; these valleys and the slopes of

the hills were heavily timbered; the soil was very rich, either a reddish

loam, or a light black mixed with sand, and the grass interspersed among

the trees was abundant and luxuriant. After ascending the range, we

passed principally over stony hills, and valleys heavily timbered, and

with brush or underwood, filling up the interstices of the trees.

Ten miles from our last night's camp we crossed the tracks of horses,

apparently of no very old date, this being the first symptom we had yet

observed of our approach towards the haunts of civilised man. The day was

cold with heavy squalls of rain, and as the night appeared likely to be

worse, I halted early, after a stage of thirteen miles. After dark the

rain ceased, and the night cleared up, but was very cold.

July 5.--Another rainy day, and so excessively cold that we were obliged

to walk to keep ourselves at all warm; we spent a miserable time,

splashing through the wet underwood, and at fifteen miles we passed a

fresh water lake, in a valley between some hills. This Wylie recognised

as a place he had once been at before, and told me that he now knew the

road well, and would act as guide, upon which I resigned the post of

honour to him, on his promising always to take us to grass and water at

night. Two miles and a half beyond the lake, we came to a fresh water

swamp, and a mile beyond that to another, at which we halted for the

night, with plenty of water, but very little grass. During the day, we

had been travelling generally through a very heavily timbered country.

At night the rain set in again, and continued to fall in torrents at

intervals; we got dreadfully drenched, and suffered greatly from cold and

want of rest, being obliged to stand or walk before the fire, nearly the

whole night.

July 6.--The morning still very wet and miserably cold. With Wylie acting

as guide, we reached in eight miles, the Candiup river, a large chain of

ponds, connected by a running stream, and emptying into a wide and deep

arm of the sea, with much rich and fertile land upon its banks. The whole

district was heavily timbered, and had good grass growing amongst the

trees. From the very heavy rains that had fallen, we had great trouble in

crossing many of the streams, which were swollen by the floods into

perfect torrents. In the Candiup river I had to wade, cold and chill as I

was, seven times through, with the water breast high, and a current that

I with difficulty could keep my feet against, in order to get the horses

over in safety; the only fordable place was at a narrow ledge of rocks,

and with so strong a stream, and such deep water below the ledge, I dared

not trust Wylie to lead any of them, but went back, and took each horse

across myself. The day was bitterly cold and rainy, and I began to suffer

severely from the incessant wettings I had been subject to for many days

past.

Four miles beyond the Candiup river, we came to King's river, a large

salt arm of Oyster Harbour, here my friend Wylie, who insisted upon it

that he knew the proper crossing place, took me into a large swampy

morass, and in endeavouring to take the horses through, three of them got

bogged and were nearly lost, and both myself and Wylie were detained in

the water and mud for a couple of hours, endeavouring to extricate them.

At last we succeeded, but the poor animals were sadly weakened and

strained, and we were compelled to return back to the same side of the

river, and encamp for the night, instead of going on to King George's

Sound as I had intended!

Fortunately there was tolerable grass, and fresh water lay every where

about in great abundance, so that the horses would fare well, but for

ourselves there was a cheerless prospect. For three days and nights, we

had never had our clothes dry, and for the greater part of this time, we

had been enduring in full violence the pitiless storm--whilst wading so

constantly through the cold torrents in the depth of the winter season,

and latterly being detained in the water so long a time at the King's

river, had rendered us rheumatic, and painfully sensitive to either cold

or wet. I hoped to have reached Albany this evening, and should have done

so, as it was only six miles distant, if it had not been for the unlucky

attempt to cross King's river. Now we had another night's misery before

us, for we had hardly lain down before the rain began to fall again in

torrents. Wearied and worn-out as we were, with the sufferings and

fatigues of the last few days, we could neither sit nor lie down to rest;

our only consolation under the circumstances being, that however bad or

inclement the weather might be, it was the last night we should be

exposed to its fury.

July 7.--Getting up the horses early, we proceeded up the King's river,

with a view of attempting to cross, but upon sounding the depths in one

or two places, I found the tide, which was rising, was too high; I had

only the alternative, therefore, of waiting for several hours until the

water ebbed, or else of leaving the horses, and proceeding on without

them. Under all the circumstances, I decided upon the latter; the rain

was still falling very heavily, and the river before us was so wide and

so dangerous for horses, from its very boggy character, that I did not

think it prudent to attempt to force a passage, or worth while to delay

to search for a proper crossing place. There was good feed for the horses

where they were, and plenty of water, so that I knew they would fare

better by remaining than if they were taken on to the Sound; whilst it

appeared to me more than probable that I should have no difficulty,

whenever I wished to get them, to procure a guide to go for and conduct

them safely across, at the proper crossing place.

Having turned our horses loose, and piled up our baggage, now again

greatly reduced, I took my journals and charts, and with Wylie forded the

river about breast high. We were soon on the other side, and rapidly

advancing towards the termination of our journey; the rain was falling in

torrents, and we had not a dry shred about us, whilst the whole country

through which we passed, had, from the long-continued and excessive

rains, become almost an uninterrupted chain of puddles. For a great part

of the way we walked up to our ankles in water. This made our progress

slow, and rendered our last day's march a very cold and disagreeable one.

Before reaching the Sound, we met a native, who at once recognised Wylie,

and greeted him most cordially. From him we learnt that we had been

expected at the Sound some months ago, but had long been given up for

lost, whilst Wylie had been mourned for and lamented as dead by his

friends and his tribe. The rain still continued falling heavily as we

ascended to the brow of the hill immediately overlooking the town of

Albany--not a soul was to be seen--not an animal of any kind--the place

looked deserted and uninhabited, so completely had the inclemency of the

weather driven both man and beast to seek shelter from the storm.

For a moment I stood gazing at the town below me--that goal I had so long

looked forward to, had so laboriously toiled to attain, was at last

before me. A thousand confused images and reflections crowded through my

mind, and the events of the past year were recalled in rapid succession.

The contrast between the circumstances under which I had commenced and

terminated my labours stood in strong relief before me. The gay and

gallant cavalcade that accompanied me on my way at starting--the small

but enterprising band that I then commanded, the goodly array of horses

and drays, with all their well-ordered appointments and equipment were

conjured up in all their circumstances of pride and pleasure; and I could

not restrain a tear, as I called to mind the embarrassing difficulties

and sad disasters that had broken up my party, and left myself and Wylie

the two sole wanderers remaining at the close of an undertaking entered

upon under such hopeful auspices.

Whilst standing thus upon the brow overlooking the town, and buried in

reflection, I was startled by the loud shrill cry of the native we had

met on the road, and who still kept with us: clearly and powerfully that

voice rang through the recesses of the settlement beneath, whilst the

blended name of Wylie told me of the information it conveyed. For an

instant there was a silence still almost as death--then a single

repetition of that wild joyous cry, a confused hum of many voices, a

hurrying to and fro of human feet, and the streets which had appeared so

shortly before gloomy and untenanted, were now alive with natives--men,

women and children, old and young, rushing rapidly up the hill, to

welcome the wanderer on his return, and to receive their lost one almost

from the grave.

It was an interesting and touching sight to witness the meeting between

Wylie and his friends. Affection's strongest ties could not have produced

a more affecting and melting scene--the wordless weeping pleasure, too

deep for utterance, with which he was embraced by his relatives, the

cordial and hearty reception given him by his friends, and the joyous

greeting bestowed upon him by all, might well have put to the blush those

heartless calumniators, who, branding the savage as the creature only of

unbridled passions, deny to him any of those better feelings and

affections which are implanted in the breast of all mankind, and which

nature has not denied to any colour or to any race.

Upon entering the town I proceeded direct to Mr. Sherrats', where I had

lodged when in King George's Sound, in 1840. By him and his family I was

most hospitably received, and every attention shewn to me; and in the

course of a short time, after taking a glass of hot brandy and water,

performing my ablutions and putting on a clean suit of borrowed clothes,

I was enabled once more to feel comparatively comfortable, and to receive

the many kind friends who called upon me.

I feel great pleasure in the opportunity now afforded me of recording the

grateful feelings I entertain towards the residents at Albany for the

kindness I experienced upon this occasion. Wet as the day was, I had

hardly been two hours at Mr. Sherrats before I was honoured by a visit

from Lady Spencer, from the Government-resident, Mr. Phillips, and from

almost all the other residents and visitors at the settlement,--all vying

with each other in their kind attentions and congratulations, and in

every offer of assistance or accommodation which it was in their power to

render.

Finding that a vessel would shortly sail for Adelaide, I at once engaged

my passage, and proceeded to make arrangements for leaving King George's

Sound.

To the Governor of the Colony, Mr. Hutt, I wrote a brief report of my

journey, which was forwarded, with a copy both of my own and Wylie's

depositions, relative to the melancholy loss of my overseer on the 29th

April. I then had my horses got up from the King's river, and left them

in the care of Mr. Phillips, who had in the most friendly manner offered

to take charge of them until they recovered their condition and could be

sold.

Wylie was to remain at the Sound with his friends, and to receive from

the Government a weekly allowance of provisions, [Note 29: This was

confirmed by Governor Hutt.] by order of Mr. Phillips; who promised to

recommend that it should be permanently continued, as a reward for the

fidelity and good conduct he had displayed whilst accompanying me in

the desert.

On the 13th July I wished my friends good bye, and in the afternoon went

on board the Truelove to sail for Adelaide; whilst working out of harbour

we were accompanied as long as any of the shore boats remained, by some

of the natives of the place, who were most anxious to have gone with me

to Adelaide. Wylie had given them so flattering an account of South

Australia and its pleasures, that he had excited the envy and curiosity

of the whole tribe; dozens applied to me to take them, and I really think

I could have filled the ship had I been disposed; one or two, more

persevering than the rest, would not be denied, and stuck close to the

vessel to the last, in the hope that I might relent and take them with me

before the pilot boat left, but upon this occurring, to their great

discomforture, they were compelled to return disappointed.

On the afternoon of the 26th of July I arrived in Adelaide, after an

absence of one year and twenty-six days.

Chapter VI.

CONCLUDING REMARKS.

Having now brought to a close the narrative of my explorations in 1840-1,

it may not be out of place to take a brief and cursory review of the

whole, and to state generally what have been the results effected. In

making this summary, I have no important rivers to enumerate, no fertile

regions to point out for the future spread of colonization and

civilization, or no noble ranges to describe from which are washed the

debris that might form a rich and fertile district beneath them; on the

contrary, all has been arid and barren in the extreme.

Such, indeed, has been the sterile and desolate character of the

wilderness I have traversed, and so great have been the difficulties

thereby entailed upon me, that throughout by far the greater portion of

it, I have never been able to delay a moment in my route, or to deviate

in any way from the line I was pursuing, to reconnoitre or examine what

may haply be beyond. Even in the latter part of my travels, when within

the colony of Western Australia, and when the occasionally meeting with

tracts of a better soil, or with watercourses appearing to have an outlet

to the ocean, rendered the country one of much greater interest, I was

quite unable, from the circumstances under which I was placed, the

reduced and worn-out state of my horses, and the solitary manner in which

I was travelling, ever to deviate from my direct line of route, either to

examine more satisfactorily the character of the country, or to determine

whether the watercourses, some of which occasionally bore the character

of rivers (though of only short course), had embouchures opening to the

sea or not.

In a geographical point of view, I would hope the result of my labours

has not been either uninteresting, or incommensurate with the nature of

the expedition placed under my command, and the character of the country

I had to explore. By including in the summary I am now making, the

journeys I undertook in 1839, as well as those of 1840-1 (for a

considerable portion of the country then examined was recrossed by the

Northern Expedition), it will be seen that I have discovered and examined

a tract of country to the north of Adelaide, which was previously

unknown, of about 270 miles in length, extending between the parallels of

33 degrees 40 minutes and 29 degrees S. latitude. In longitude, that part

of my route which was before unknown, extends between the parallels of

138 degrees E., and 118 degrees 40 minutes E., or about 1060 miles of

direct distance. These being connected with the previously known portions

of South-western, South-eastern, and part of Southern Australia, complete

the examination of the whole of the south line of the coast of this

continent. Indeed, I have myself (at various times) crossed over the

whole of this distance from east to west, from Sydney to Swan River. In

the early part of the Expedition, 1840, the continuation of Flinders

range, from Mount Arden, was traced and laid down to its termination,

near the parallel of 29 degrees S. It was ascertained to be hemmed in by

an impassable barrier, consisting of the basin of an immense lake, which

I named Lake Torrens, and which, commencing from the head of Spencer's

Gulf, increased in width as it swept to the north-west, but subsequently

bent round again to the north-east, east and south-east, in

correspondence with the trend of Flinders range, the northern extremity

of which it completely surrounded in the form of a horse-shoe. The shores

of this lake I visited to the westward of Flinders range, at three

different points, from eighty to ninety miles apart from each other, and

on all these occasions I found the basin to consist, as far as I could

penetrate, of a mass of mud and sand, coated on the surface with a crust

of salt, but having water mixed with it beneath. At the most

north-westerly point attained by me, water was found in an arm of the

main lake, about two feet deep, clear, and salt as the sea; it did not

extend, however, more than two or three hundred yards, nor did it

continue to the bed of the main lake, which appeared, from a rise that I

ascended near the arm, to be of the same character and consistency as

before. The whole course of the lake, to the farthest point visited by

me, was bounded by a steep, continuous, sandy ridge, exactly like a

sea-shore ridge; those parts of its course to the north, and to the east

of Flinders range, which I did not go down to, were seen and laid down

from various heights in that mountain chain. Altogether, the outline of

this extraordinary feature, as thus observed and traced, could not have

extended over a circuit of less than 400 miles.

It is singular enough that all the springs found near the termination of

Flinders range should have been salt, and that these were very nearly in

the same latitude in which Captain Sturt had found brine springs in the

bed of the Darling in 1829, although our two positions were so far

separated in longitude. My furthest position to the north-west was also

in about the same latitude, as the most inland point gained by any

previous exploring party, viz. that of Sir Thomas Mitchell's in 1832,

about the parallel of 149 degrees E. longitude; but by my being about 600

miles more to the westward, I was consequently much nearer to the centre

of New Holland. It is, to say the least, remarkable that from both our

positions, so far apart as they are, the country should present the same

low and sterile aspect to the west and north-west. Since my return from

the expedition, a party has been sent out under Captain Frome, the

Surveyor-General, in South Australia, to examine the south-east extremity

of Lake Torrens; the following is the report made by that officer upon

his return.

"The most northern point at which I found water last year, was near the

top of a deep ravine of the Black Rock Hills, in lat. 32 degrees 45

minutes 25 seconds, where I left the dray and the larger portion of my

party on the 20th July, taking on only a light spring cart, the bottom

filled entirely with kegs containing sufficient water for our horses for

nearly three days, and provisions for one month, which was as much as the

cart would contain.