we crossed a stony ridge to the S. W., and at four miles struck a
watercourse with a large pool of water in its bed, and well adapted for a
halting place for the party on their route to the north: we had not seen
this in our outward course, having kept further to the westward in the
plains. From the water-hole, Mount Eyre bore W. 30 degrees S. distant
five miles.
Upon leaving this pool I pushed on as rapidly as I could, being anxious
to rejoin my party; and after a hard and fatiguing ride of forty miles,
arrived at the depot under Mount Arden, late in the day, having been
absent sixteen days. I had been anxiously expected, and was cordially
welcomed by the whole party, who were getting sadly tired of inactivity,
and especially by my young friend Mr. Scott, whose eager and ardent
disposition rendered him quite uneasy under the confinement and restraint
of a depot encampment; he would gladly have shared with me the
difficulties and hazards of exploring the country in advance, but from
the very embarrassing nature of the undertaking, I did not think it right
to take more than a single native with me, as every addition to the
number of a party, on such occasions, only tends to increase the
difficulty and anxiety of the task.
Having rested a little, and made innumerable inquiries, I was very much
gratified to find that the whole party were in good health, and that
every thing had been conducted in a satisfactory manner during my
absence. No one had been idle, and every thing that I could have wished,
had been properly arranged. The stores had been safely brought up from
the WATERWITCH, including a barometer kindly sent by the Governor, and a
large packet of English letters, at any time a highly valued prize, and
not the less so now that they were received 200 miles in the interior,
amidst the labours and anxieties of an exploring expedition.
During my absence all the harness, hobbles, tents, tarpaulins, etc. had
been fully repaired; and according to my instructions, a large deep hole
had been dug in the slope of the hill, to bury a portion of the stores
in, that if compelled by circumstances to return from the north, we might
still have supplies to fall back upon. Mr. Scott had employed his time in
collecting botanical and geological specimens, and had already made a
very fair commencement for our collections in both these departments of
science. He had also regularly kept the meteorological journal,
registering the observations three times in each day.
July 22.--After breakfast I had all the stores reweighed, and examined
the supplies sent us in the WATERWITCH, which consisted chiefly of flour,
biscuit, sugar, tea, salt pork, soap, tobacco, salt, canvas, etc. besides
many little luxuries which the kindness of the Governor, and the
consideration of our many friends had added to the list.
The men during my absence, having been living entirely upon salt pork, to
economize the sheep, were glad to receive the kangaroo which I brought
home with me.
Having inspected the stores, the whole party were put upon their
travelling rations, and the first week's allowance was issued to each,
consisting of ten pounds of meat, seven pounds of biscuit or flour, a
quarter of a pound of tea, a pound and a half of sugar, a quarter of a
pound of soap, and the same quantity of tobacco.
Provisions of different kinds were then weighed out, headed up in casks,
and buried in the hole dug by the men during my absence, to wait our
return, if ever it should be our lot to reach the place again. The
remainder were all properly packed up, and the drays loaded and arranged
for moving on.
After satisfactorily concluding all the preparations for leaving the
depot, I employed myself busily in writing letters and despatches until a
very late hour of the night, as it was the last opportunity I should have
for a long time, of reporting our prospects and progress, or of thanking
the Governor and our numerous friends, for the many attentions we had
experienced.
I had hardly retired to rest before I was suddenly seized with a violent
attack of illness, arising probably from cold and over-exertion, now that
a return to my party had removed the stimulus to activity, and permitted
a reaction in the system to take place.
July 23.--This morning I felt weak, and still very ill, and it was with
great difficulty I could manage to close my letters, and give the
necessary instructions to the overseer, whom I sent down to the head of
Spencer's Gulf, with orders to the master of the cutter to sail for
Adelaide, and to report what he had seen at the salt inlets in the east
side of Spencer's Gulf, which I had directed him to examine in the boats
whilst I was absent exploring to the north. His reply was, that there was
water enough for a ship to lie within one mile of the shore, that there
was a tolerable landing place, but that he had found no fresh water. The
men were employed during the day making a new tarpaulin from the canvas
sent up in the WATERWITCH. The following is a copy of the Report sent to
the Governor, and to the Chairman of the Committee for promoting the
expedition.
"Depot, near Mount Arden,
July 22nd, 1840.
"Sir,--I have the honour to acquaint you for the information of His
Excellency the Governor, and of the colonists interested in the northern
expedition, with the progress made up to the present date.
"I arrived here with my party all well, on the 3rd July instant, and on
the 6th I proceeded, accompanied by one of my native boys, on horseback,
to reconnoitre Lake Torrens and the country to the north of the depot,
leaving the party in camp to rest the horses and enable the overseer to
get up, from the head of Spencer's Gulf, the supplies kindly sent by His
Excellency the Governor in the WATERWITCH--her arrival having been
signalised the evening previous to my leaving. I arrived on the shores of
Lake Torrens the third day after leaving the depot, and have ascertained
that it is a basin of considerable magnitude, extending certainly over a
space varying in width from 15 to 20 miles, and with a length of from 40
to 50, from its southern extremity, to the most northerly part of it,
visible from a high summit in Flinders range, (about ninety miles north
of Mount Arden). The lake is girded with an outer ridge of sand, covered
with salsolaceous plants, and with saline crusts, shewing above the
ground at intervals. Its waters appear to extend over a considerable
surface, but they are, seemingly, shallow. I could not approach the
water, from the soft nature of that part of its bed, which is uncovered,
and which appeared to reach from three to four miles from the outer bank
to the water's edge. There can be no doubt, however, of its being very
salt, as that portion of its bed which lay exposed to our view was
thickly coated with pungent particles of salt. There were not any trees
or shrubs of any kind near the lake where we made it, nor could either
grass or fresh water be procured for our horses. Lake Torrens is bounded
on its western side by high lands--apparently a continuation of the table
land to the westward of the head of Spencer's Gulf.--I should think that
it must receive a considerable drainage from that quarter, as well as the
whole of the waters falling from Flinders range to the eastward.
"From the very inhospitable nature of the country, around the lake, I
could not examine it so carefully or so extensively as I could have
wished. My time, too, being very limited, made me hurry away to the
northward, to search for a place to which I might bring on my party, as
the grass in the neighbourhood of the depot was very old, and much less
abundant than on either of my former visits there. It became, therefore,
imperative on me to remove the horses as speedily as possible. Should
circumstances permit, I shall, however, endeavour to visit Lake Torrens
again, on my return from the northern interior. After leaving the lake I
spent many days in examining the country to the northward of our depot.
Its character seemed to vary but little; barren sandy plains still formed
the lower level, and the hills constituting the continuation of Flinders
range were still composed of quartz and ironstone; they were, however,
gradually becoming less elevated and more detached, with intervals of
stony valleys between, and the whole country was, if possible, assuming a
more barren aspect, while the springs, which had heretofore been numerous
among the hills, were very few in number--difficult to find--and very far
in amongst the ranges. After most anxious and laborious search, I at last
succeeded in finding a place about ninety miles (of latitude) north of
Mount Arden, to which I can remove my depot, and from which I can again
penetrate more to the northward.
"After an absence of sixteen days I rejoined my party under Mount Arden
on the evening of the 21st July, and found they had safely received all
the supplies sent for our use by the WATERWITCH. The latter has been
detained until my return, for despatches, which I shall send down
to-morrow, and on the 24th I intend to move on with my party to the new
depot. I regret it is not in my power to afford more certain information
as to the future prospects of the expedition, but where so little
alteration has taken place, in the features of the country I have been
examining, conjectures alone can anticipate what may be beyond. From the
very difficult nature of the country we are advancing into, our further
progress must necessarily be very slow for some time, but I still hope
that by patience and perseverance we shall ultimately succeed in
accomplishing the object of the expedition.
"I have the honour to be, Sir,
"Your most obedient humble Servant,
"EDWARD JOHN EYRE."
"To the Chairman of the Committee of Colonists for promoting the Northern
Expedition."
* * *
"Depot, near Mount Arden,
July 22nd, 1840.
"My Dear Sir,--I beg to enclose a copy of the report of our proceedings
up to the present date, for the perusal of his Excellency the Governor.
By it his Excellency will perceive that the very inhospitable nature of
the country around Lake Torrens, added to my anxiety to remove our horses
from the depot near Mount Arden, where there was but very little grass
for them, prevented my devoting so much time to the examination of the
lake and the country around it, as I should have wished; and I therefore
intend, if possible, on my return, to investigate it more fully, being
anxious to ascertain, whether, as I suppose, there is a considerable
drainage into it from the westward. The high land seen on its opposite
side, appears to be a continuation of the table land, lying to the west
of the head of Spencer's Gulf; and though the fall of the country appears
to be to the north, I begin to be of opinion now that it is not in
reality. Lake Torrens is evidently the basin into which all the waters
from Flinders range fall, and its extent is very considerable; in fact,
where I last saw it to the north, it was impossible to say whether it
terminated or not, from the very great distance it was off. The country
lying between Flinders range on the one side, and the table land on the
other, and north of Spencer's Gulf, is of so low and so level a character
that the eye alone is not a sufficient guide as to the direction in which
the fall may be. On my previous visits, I felt convinced it was
northerly, but I am now inclined to think that the drainage from Lake
Torrens in seasons of wet, is to the south, into the head of the Gulf;
and I can only account for there not being a larger connecting
watercourse than the small shallow one found when crossing from Streaky
Bay--and which I did not then imagine extended far above the head of the
Gulf--by supposing that the seasons have so altered of late years that
the overflow of the lake has never been sufficient to cause a run of
water to the Gulf. Should my present supposition be correct, the idea of
a northerly drainage is done away with, and we have yet to come to a
"division of the waters." My uncertainty on this most important point has
made me most anxious to get my party removed to a place where they can
remain until I can decide so interesting a point, and one on which our
future prospects so much depend. The same causes that prevented my
staying a little longer in the neighbourhood of the Lake have also
prevented, as yet, my extending my researches to the north for more than
about forty miles farther than I had been when last in this
neighbourhood. The only change I observed, was the increasing barren
appearance of the country--the decrease in elevation of the ranges--their
becoming more detached, with sterile valleys between--and the general
absence of springs; the rock of the higher ridges, which were very rugged
and abrupt, was still the same, quartz and ironstone, but much more of
the latter than I had before seen, and, in some cases, with a very great
proportion of metal to the stone. The lower ridges and steep banks, when
washed away by the rains, presented great quantities of a very pungent
salt to the eye of the observer, mixed with the clay and sand of which
the banks were formed; and in this neighbourhood the watercourses were
(though dry) all lined with the salt-water tea-tree--a shrub we had never
before seen under Flinders range. My next push to the north will probably
throw some light upon our future prospects, and I only regret it will not
be in my power to communicate the intelligence. I intended to have sent
his Excellency a rough sketch of my last route, but have not been able to
get it ready in time, and I fear I have already detained the little
cutter too long: during their detention, I requested the master to
examine some salt water inlets on the east side of Spencer's Gulf, and he
said he would, but I have not yet heard the result of his researches.
Should he have found, a good landing-place for goods, it would be of much
importance to the northern parts of the colony when they become stocked;
and nearly all the country as far as the head of the Gulf is more or less
adapted for grazing. Pray return my best thanks to his Excellency for the
abundant supply of stores we have received by the WATERWITCH--especially
for the barometer, which has arrived quite safely. I shall take great
care of it, and shall make observations, whenever practicable, three
times a day--8, a.m., noon, and 5, p.m. I only returned late last night,
and have been so busy to-day preparing every thing for leaving the depot,
that I have been obliged to put off my writing until night; and I am now
acribbling in the tent, on my bed, with my young friend, Mr. Scott, fast
asleep, and a cold bleak wind whistling through the place, so that I fear
my writing will be scarcely legible. I send down the letters to the
cutter in the morning, and intend to move on my party on the 24th. With
kind remembrance to his Excellency, Mrs. Gawler, and family--
"Believe me, etc.
"EDWARD JOHN EYRE.
"G. Hall, Esq."
Chapter V.
BREAK UP THE ENCAMPMENT--ARRIVE AT DEPOT POOL--GEOLOGICAL CHARACTER OF
THE COUNTRY--BAROMETERS OUT OF ORDER--ADVANCE TO RECONNOITRE--ASCEND
TERMINATION HILL--SURPRISE NATIVE WOMEN--THEY ABANDON THEIR
CHILDREN--INEFFECTUAL SEARCH FOR WATER--RETURN TOWARDS MOUNT
DECEPTION--BROKEN CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY--FIND WATER--THE SCOTT--REJOIN
THE PARTY--WATER ALL USED AT DEPOT--EMBARRASSING CIRCUMSTANCES--REMOVE TO
THE SCOTT--RECONNOITRE IN ADVANCE--BARREN COUNTRY--TABLE TOPPED
ELEVATIONS--INDICATIONS OF THE VIOLENT ACTION OF WATER--MEET
NATIVES--REACH LAKE TORRENS--THE WATER SALT--OBLIGED TO RETURN--ARRIVAL
AT DEPOT--HOSTILE DEMONSTRATIONS OF THE NATIVES.
July 25.--To-DAY we broke up the camp, and commenced our labours in
earnest, the men and the horses having had a rest of three weeks; the
latter were in splendid condition and spirits, having eaten twenty-five
bushels of oats, which had been sent up in the WATERWITCH. Every thing
had been well and conveniently arranged, and the whole moved on with an
order and regularity that was very gratifying.
I was very ill at starting, and remained so for some days after, but as I
had already been twice over the ground, and as my native boy was able to
act as guide to the party, my indisposition was not of so much
consequence as it would have been under other circumstances. At times I
was quite incapable of any exertion, and could not attend to any thing,
being hardly able to sit upon my horse for half an hour together. From
the 25th to the evening of the 30th, we were engaged in travelling from
Mount Arden to Depot Pool, by the same line of route by which myself and
the native boy had returned from our exploration. In our progress we
noticed many traces of natives around us, and saw many native fires among
the hills; the people themselves did not, however, appear.
By a little trouble in examining the watercourses before encamping, we
were generally able to procure water for our horses, at some distance
among the hills; and we were usually fortunate enough to obtain tolerable
food for them also. The grass, it is true, was generally scanty, or dry;
but we found a succulent plant of the geranium tribe, bearing a small
blue flower, and growing where the channels of the watercourses spread
out in the plains, in the greatest abundance, and in the wildest
luxuriance; of this the horses were extremely fond, and it appeared to
keep them in good condition and spirits.
July 30.--The geological formation of the country we had passed through,
consisted in the higher ranges of an argillaceous rock, of quartz, or of
ironstone. Upon some of the hills the small loose stones had a vitrified
appearance--in others they looked like the scoria of a furnace, and
appeared to be of volcanic origin, but nowhere did I observe the
appearance of anything like a crater. In the lower or front hills the
rock was argillaceous, of a hard slaty nature, and inclined at an angle
of about 45 degrees from the horizontal. This formation was frequently
traversed by dykes of grey limestone of a very hard texture.
Upon watering the horses at the hole in the rock, I was much disappointed
to find that they had already sunk it eighteen inches, and now began to
fear that it would not last them so long as I had anticipated, and that I
should still be obliged to cross over the hills to the very rocky channel
where I had found permanent water on the 15th of July. This I was
desirous, if possible, to avoid, both from the difficult nature of the
road by which that water must be reached, and from the circumstance that
it was going so much out of our way into an all but impracticable
country, and that consequently, when we did move on again to the north,
we should be obliged to come all the way back again over the same bad
road to gain the open country under Flinders range, where alone we could
hope to make any progress with the drays.
July 31.--Having remained all day in camp to rest the party, I found that
the horses had again made a great diminution in the depth of the water in
the rock, I therefore had the drays all prepared in the evening,
intending to move away to the other water-course in the morning; but the
next day the horses had unfortunately strayed, and it was late before
they were brought up, so that we could not get away. Upon watering them
when they arrived, I found that less impression was made upon the water
than on the previous days; and after an anxious consultation with my
overseer, I decided upon leaving the party in camp at Depot Pool until I
could reconnoitre further north and return.
August 1.--To prevent any difficulties during my absence, in the event of
the water failing in the rocky hole, I sent the native boy to shew the
overseer the place where the permanent water was, and gave him
instructions to move the party thither if he should find it necessary;
but not until their safety absolutely required it, or before he had fully
ascertained that no water was to be procured by digging in the bed of any
of the adjoining watercourses. During his absence, I employed myself
busily in getting ready for another push to the north with the native boy
to search for a new depot, as in a country so difficult and embarrassing,
it was quite impracticable to move on the party until after having
previously ascertained where they could be taken to with safety. Upon
examining the barometers to-day, I was much concerned to find that they
were both out of order and useless; the damp had softened the glue
fastening the bags of leather which hold the quicksilver, and the
leathers that were glued over the joints of the cisterns, and so much of
the mercury had escaped, before I was aware of it, that I found all the
previous observations valueless. I emptied the tubes and attempted to
refill them, but in so doing I unfortunately broke one of them, and the
other I could not get repaired in a satisfactory manner, not being able,
after all my efforts, to get rid of some small air bubbles that would
intrude, in spite of every care I could exercise.
August 2.--Leaving early, I took with me a native boy, and a man on
horseback, leading a pack-horse, to carry water, as I could not but be
apprehensive, lest we might find none in the country into which we were
advancing. In following down the Depot watercourse to the plains, we
found a fire where the natives had encamped the previous night. This
surprised us, because we were not aware that there were any so
immediately in our vicinity. It however shewed us the necessity of
vigilance and circumspection in our future movements.
Steering for the most western point of Mount Deception range, until we
opened one still more distant to the north-west, and which I named
Termination Hill, we kept pushing on through barren stony plains, without
grass or shrubs, and arrived late in the afternoon upon a large
watercourse with gum-trees, but could find no water in its bed. Near it,
however, in the plains, we were fortunate enough to discover a puddle of
rain water, and at once halted for the night, though the feed was
indifferent. We had travelled twenty-eight miles, and the pack-horse
carrying twelve gallons of water, was considerably fatigued. At the
puddle, two teal were seen, which indicated the existence of a larger
body of water somewhere in the neighbourhood, but our efforts to find it
were unsuccessful.
August 3.--Crossing very heavy sandy ridges, we passed at intervals one
or two dry watercourses, and the beds of some small dry lakes among the
sandy ridges, in one of which was a little rain water which appeared to
be rapidly drying up. Watering the horses we moved on for Termination
Hill, but the nature of the country had been so unfavourable, that the
pack-horse was knocked up, and I was obliged to halt four miles short of
our intended destination, and where there was but poor feed for the
animals. After dinner I walked to Termination Hill and ascended it. Like
all the others I had recently examined, it was composed principally of
quartz, ironstone and a kind of slaty rock; the low hills in front
exhibiting the grey limestone, whilst patches of gum scrub were
observable in many places. From the summit of Termination Hill, Lake
Torrens bore W. 20 degrees S. but the view was obstructed by intervening
sand ridges, the elevated land on the opposite shore of the lake still
appeared to continue, and was visibly further north than the lake itself,
which, as I observed, was partially shut out by the ridges. To the north
were low broken hills similar to those around me, but less elevated, and
immediately under these hills to the westward, were heavy red sandy
ridges, such as we had crossed during the day. To the eastward and ten
degrees north of east were seen Flinders range, with which Mount
Deception and Termination Hills were connected, by low long spurs thrown
off to the northward. In the north-east the horizon was one unbroken,
low, flat, level waste, with here and there small table-topped
elevations, appearing white in the distance and seemingly exhibiting
precipitous faces. Wherever I turned, or whatever way I looked, the
prospect was cheerless and disheartening. Our stage had been twenty-two
miles.
August 4.--After giving five gallons of water each to my own and the
native boy's horse, I sent back the man with the pack-horse and the empty
kegs to the depot. We then steered E. 5 degrees S. across some very
extensive barren stony plains, occasionally broken into irregular
surfaces with steep white banks (of a fine freestone), forming the
termination of the higher levels, fronting the hollows. These hollows or
flats were covered with salsolaceous plants and samphire, and appeared
once to have been salt swamps.
At twenty miles we came to a small watercourse emanating from the eastern
hills, which we had now reached, and soon after to a larger one which we
traced up for five miles among the front hills, which were composed of
limestone, but were then obliged to encamp without water. Whilst rambling
about after turning out the horses, I met with a party of native women
and children, but could gain no information from them. They would not
permit me to come near them, and at last fairly ran away, leaving at
their fire two young children who could not escape. I then went to their
camp and examined the bags and property which had been left, and amongst
other things found two kangaroo skins full of water, each containing from
six to eight quarts; it was quite muddy, and had evidently been taken
from a puddle in the plains, and carried to the present encampment in the
bed of the watercourse. Having helped ourselves to some of the water, I
tied a red pocket handkerchief round one of the children, as payment for
it and returned to our own camp.
August 5.--During the night I was taken very ill again, and felt quite
weak when I arose this morning, but circumstances admitted of no delay,
and I was obliged to go on with my exploration: I continued to trace up
the creek, which I found to be large and lined with gum-trees for many
miles among rocky and precipitous hills, but altogether without water,
and as I knew of none of this requisite, of a permanent character, behind
me, I determined to retrace my steps again to Mount Deception range. In
doing so, I had to pass near the place from whence the natives had taken
flight, and from curiosity called to see if the children had been taken
away; to my surprise and regret I found them still remaining, they had
been left by their unnatural or terrified parents without food, and
exposed to the inclemency of a cold winter's night; the fire had gone
out, and the eldest of the children had scraped a hole among the ashes in
which both were lying. They were alarmed when they saw me, and would take
nothing I offered them. The child around whom I had tied the
handkerchief, had managed to get it off and throw it to one side. I now
scarcely knew what to do, as I was fearful if I left them there, and the
parents did not return, the poor little children might perish, and yet I
was so far away from my own party, and in such difficult circumstances,
that I knew not how I could take them with me. Upon due reflection, and
considering that I had not seen a single male native, it struck me that
the women might have gone for the men and would probably return by the
evening to see where their little ones were.
Under this impression, I put the handkerchief again round the eldest
child, and tying it firmly, I left them; I had hopes too, that some of
the natives were watching our movements from the hills, and in this case
they would at once return, when they saw us fairly depart from the
neighbourhood.
Keeping a little to the south of west, I still found the country very
much broken into hollows, with high steep banks bounding them, this
singular formation being apparently the result of the violent action of
water; but how long ago and under what circumstances I had no means of
judging. Having found a puddle of water in the plains, I halted for the
night, our stage having been about twenty miles.
August 6.--We again passed many of those singular hollows fronted by the
high steep banks of the upper levels, and then crossed some low ironstone
ridges to a channel emanating from Mount Deception range. This I traced
through the hills to the westward without finding any water, and then
following down the Mount Deception range in its western slopes, I
examined all the watercourses coming from it; in one, which I named The
Scott, after my young friend and fellow traveller, I found a large hole
of rain water among the rocks, and at this I halted to rest and feed the
horses. The latitude of the water in The Scott was 30 degrees 32 minutes
S. Pushing on again, late in the afternoon, I reached our camp of the 2nd
August, quite tired, and the horses much fatigued, the puddle of water we
had found here on our outward course was now nearly all dried up.
August 7.--Making an early start I returned to the Depot Pool, and found
the party all well. They were, however, just preparing to move away, as
the water was nearly all gone. The drays were packed and everything ready
when I arrived; they had tried to obtain water by digging, but had
failed, having been stopped by hard rock.
I was now in a very awkward dilemma. The water where we were, had been
all used, and we must consequently remove at once,--but where to, was the
question? If I went to the permanent water to the eastward, I gained
nothing, as I only harassed my party by travelling through an almost
impracticable country, over which we must return before we could move
further to the north,--and if I went to the N. W. to The Scott, I went to
a mere puddle of water, precarious and uncertain at the best, and at
which, under any circumstances, we could not remain long:--yet move I
must, as soon as the morning dawned. Many and anxious were the hours I
spent in consideration and reflection.
Little indeed are the public aware of the difficulties and
responsibilities attached to the command of an expedition of
exploration;--the incessant toil, the sleepless hours, the anxious
thoughts that necessarily fall to the share of the leader of a party
under circumstances of difficulty or danger, are but imperfectly
understood and less appreciated by the world at large. Accustomed to
judge of undertakings only by their results, they are frequently as
unjust in their censure as they are excessive in their approval. The
traveller who discovers a rich and well watered district, encounters but
few of the hardships, and still fewer of the anxieties, that fall to the
lot of the explorer in desert regions, yet is the former lauded with
praise, whilst the latter is condemned to obloquy; although the success
perhaps of the one, or the failure of the other, may have arisen from
circumstances over which individually neither had any control.
August 8.--The horses having rambled a little this morning it was rather
late before we got away, I had, however, made up my mind to advance at
all risks, and we accordingly travelled sixteen miles to the N. W.;
halting without any water upon the large watercourse emanating from Mount
Deception; there was no grass either, and we were consequently obliged to
tie up our horses for the night.
August 9.--The sheep had broken out of their yard, and could not be found
this morning; so sending the party on with the native boy as a guide, I
remained behind myself with the overseer, to search for them; they were
soon found, and we moved on after the drays. In going up the watercourse
I again found a native fire, where natives had been encamped within a
mile of us during the night, without our being aware of it; so difficult
is it always to know the proximity of these children of the wilds.
Having overtaken the party, I conducted them to The Scott, at which we
arrived early in the day, though the distance could not be less than 20
miles. At night a party of natives were seen near, but did not come up to
us.
August 10.--To day I prepared for another exploration to the N. W. and
had all our casks and kegs new coopered and filled with water, to make
them water tight. I found it necessary also to have our horses new shod,
which was the third set of shoes they had required in less than two
months, in consequence of the hard and stony roads over which we had
travelled. The natives were again encamped near us at night, but did not
come up.
August 11.--Leaving directions for the overseer to dig for water during
my absence, I took a native boy and one man driving a cart loaded with
water; we had mustered all the casks and kegs in the party, holding
altogether 65 gallons, and to draw this I had our three best draught
horses yoked to the light cart, being determined to push as far as
possible to the N. W. before I returned. At first we passed over a good
road but stony, then over heavy red sand ridges, and at night encamped in
a gorge coming from Termination Hill, where we had excellent feed for the
horses, but no water. The traces of natives were numerous and recent, and
I imagine they must obtain their supply of water at puddles in the
plains, but we could find none at present. The weather was very hot and
the flies excessively annoying, even at this early period of the year. We
gave each of the horses three gallons of water out of the kegs, after
which they fed well; the hills, as we advanced were getting lower, and
the sandy ridges now wound close under them, and in some instances even
among them; still there were many birds around us, amongst which cockatoo
parrots were very numerous. Our stage was about 23 miles.
August 12.--Steering to the N. W. to a low range (the highest summit of
which I named Mount North-west,) we just kept far enough in the plains to
intercept the watercourses from the hills where they spread into the
level country, and by this means we got excellent feed for our horses;
generally the same rich succulent herbage I have mentioned before,
occasionally mixed with wild oats. It was only in places of this
description that we could expect to find anything for our horses. In the
plains or on the hills there was not a blade of of anything green; at
night we encamped upon a small dry channel with tolerable feed, but no
water, and we again gave each horse three gallons from our kegs.
The country we were traversing as yet under-went no alteration, the only
difference being, that the hills were getting lower and the watercourses
less numerous, and both apparently without water; the sand ridges came
more in among the hills, and the dry beds of small salt lakes were often
met with; the salsolae were more abundant, but the traces of natives were
now less frequent; whilst those we fell in with seemed for the most part
to have been left during the wet season. The rock formation still
continued the same, quartz, ironstone, slate, and grey limestone, with
saline crusts peeping above the ground in many places in the lower
levels; the sky was cloudy and threatened rain, but none fell: our stage
was 18 miles.
August 13.--Continuing our course to the N. W. I took on the cart for 13
miles to a large dry channel, coming from the hills, upon which we halted
for an hour or two to rest and feed the horses, as there were some
sprinklings of grass around. We had now a change in the appearance of the
country; the ironstone ranges seemed to decrease rapidly in elevation to
the north, and the region around appeared more level, with many very
singular looking table-topped elevations from 50 to 300 feet in height
and with steep precipitous sides which were red, with the ironstone
above, and white, with a substance like chalk, below. The country was
covered with salsolae, and we passed the beds of many dried up salt
lakes. Ascending the highest ridge near us, I found Lake Torrens was no
longer visible, being shut out by the sandy ridges to the westward,
whilst the low ironstone hills impeded our view to the north, and to the
east. Having given our horses water, we buried twelve gallons against our
return, and sending back the man with the cart, and extra horses, the
native boy and I still pushed on to the N. W., taking a pack-horse to
carry our provisions and a few quarts of water for ourselves.
As we proceeded, the country changed to extensive plains and undulations
of stones and gravel, washed perfectly level by water, and with the
stones as even in size and as regularly laid as if they had been picked
out and laid by a paviour. At intervals were interspersed many of the
fragments of table land I have alluded to before, only perhaps a little
less elevated than they had previously been; we passed also the beds of
several small dry watercourses, and encamped upon one of the largest,
long after dark, having travelled twenty-five miles since we left the
cart, and having made in the whole a day's journey of thirty-seven miles.
There was tolerable food in the bed of the watercourse, but the horses
were thirsty and eat but little. Unfortunately, in crossing the stony
ground, one of them cast a shoe, and began to go a little lame.
August 14.--Moving away very early we travelled sixteen miles due north,
through a very similar country, only that the stones and gravel in the
plains had become much finer and a good deal mixed with sand; the
fragments of table land still continued in every direction at intervals,
and their elevations still varied from 50 to 300 feet. In the upper part
these elevations appeared red from the red sandy soil, gravel, or
iron-stone grit which were generally found upon their summits. They had
all steep precipitous sides, which looked very white in the distance, and
were composed of a chalky substance, traversed by veins of very beautiful
gypsum. There were neither trees nor shrubs, nor grass, nor vegetation of
any kind except salsolaceous plants, and these every where abounded.
In the midst of these barren miserable plains I met with four natives, as
impoverished and wretched looking as the country they inhabited. As soon
as they saw us they took to their heels, apparently in great alarm, but
as I was anxious to find out from them if there was any water near, I
galloped after two of them, and upon coming up with them was very nearly
speared for my indiscretion; for the eldest of the two men, who had in
his hand a long, rude kind of spear with which he had been digging roots
or grubs out of the ground (although I could not see the least sign of
anything edible) finding that he was rather close pressed, suddenly
halted and faced me, raising his spear to throw.
The rapid pace at which I had been pursuing prevented my reining in my
horse, but by suddenly spurring him when within but a few yards of the
native, I wheeled on one side before the weapon had time to leave his
grasp, and then pulling up I tried to bring my friend to a parley at a
less dangerous distance.
Finding that I did not attempt to injure him, the native stood his
ground, though tremblingly, and kept incessantly vociferating, and waving
me away; to all my signs and inquiries, he was provokingly insensible,
and would not hear of anything but my immediate departure. Sometimes he
pointed to the north, motioning me to go in that direction, but the poor
wretch was in such a state of alarm and trepidation that I could make
nothing of him and left him. He remained very quietly until I had gone
nearly a quarter of a mile, and then thinking that he had a fair start,
he again took to his heels, and ran away as fast as he could in the
direction opposite to that I had taken.
Continuing our course northerly I steered for what appeared to be a small
lake not far away to the N. W. and crossed over some heavy ridges of
white sand; upon reaching the object of my search it proved to be a
winding arm of the main lake (Torrens) at first somewhat narrow, but
gradually enlarging as we traced it downwards. The bed of this arm was
coated over, as had been the dry part of the bed of the main lake, with a
very pungent salt, with mud and sand and water intermixed beneath the
upper crust.
Following the arm downwards I came to a long reach of water in its
channel, about two feet deep, perfectly clear, and as salt as the sea,
and I even fancied that it had that peculiar green tinge which sea-water
when shallow usually exhibits.
This water, however, was not continuous; a little further on, the channel
again became dry, as it increased in width in its approach to the main
lake, the bed of which, near its shores, was also dry. From a high bank
which I ascended, I had a full view of the lake stretching away to the
north-east, as far as the eye could reach, apparently about thirty miles
broad, and still seeming to be bounded on its western shores by a low
ridge, or table land, beyond which nothing could be seen. No hills were
visible any where, nor was there the least vegetation of any kind.
I was now upwards of 100 miles away from my party in a desert, without
grass or water, nor could I expect to obtain either until my return to
the creek, where I had left the twelve gallons, and this was about fifty
miles away. The main basin of Lake Torrens was still four or five miles
distant, and I could not expect to gain any thing by going down to its
shores; as on previous occasions, I had ascertained that to attempt to
cross it, or even to reach the water a few miles from its outer edge, was
quite impossible, from the boggy nature of its bed. From my present
elevation, the lake was seen bending round to the N. E., and I became
aware that it would be a barrier to all efforts to the north. My horses
were suffering, too, from want of water and food; and I had, therefore,
no alternative but to turn back from so inhospitable and impracticable a
country.
With a heavy heart, and many misgivings as to the future, I retreated
from the dismal scene, and measured back my steps as rapidly as possible
towards the creek where our stock of water was buried. From the state in
which our horses were, I knew, that to save their lives, it was necessary
to get them to water without loss of time, and I therefore continued our
homeward course during the whole night, and arrived early in the morning
at the place where I had parted from the cart.
August 15.--It was now necessary to use great caution in the management
of our jaded animals. During the last two days we had ridden them fully
100 miles over a heavy country, without food or water; and for the last
twenty-four hours they had never had a moment's rest; and now we had only
twelve gallons of water for three horses and ourselves, and were still
fifty miles away from the depot, without the possibility of getting a
further supply until our arrival there.
Having hobbled the horses out for an hour, we watched them until they had
rested a little, and got cool. I then gave them half of our supply of
water; and leaving them to feed under the superintendence of the native
boy, took my gun, and walked seven or eight miles up the creek, under a
scorching sun, to look for water, examining every gorge and nook, with an
eagerness and anxiety, which those only can know who have been similarly
circumstanced; but my search was in vain, and I returned to the
encampment tired and disappointed. Out of what was left of our water, the
boy and myself now made each a little tea, and then gave the remainder to
the horses; after which we laid down for an hour whilst they were
feeding. About four in the afternoon, we again saddled them, and moved
homewards, riding, as before, the whole night, with the exception of
about an hour, when we halted to feed the horses, upon meeting with a
rich bed of the succulent geranium, of which they were so fond.
August 16.--Travelling on steadily, we began early in the afternoon to
draw near to the depot; and when within a mile and half of it, I was
surprised, upon looking back, to see two natives trying to steal upon us
with spears, who, as soon as they perceived they were observed, rose up,
and made violent gestures of defiance, but at once desisted from
following us. A little further on, upon a rise not far from the depot, I
was still more astonished to see at least thirty of these savages; and I
hurried forwards as quickly as possible to ascertain what it could mean,
not without some anxiety for the safety of my party.
Chapter VI.
GAUSE OF HOSTILITY OF THE NATIVES--WELL SUNK UNSUCCESSFULLY--OVERSEER
SENT TO THE EAST--THE SCOTT EXAMINED--ROCK WALLABIE--OVERSEER'S
RETURN--ANOTHER VISIT TO LAKE TORRENS--BOGGY CHARACTER OF ITS
BED--EXTRAORDINARY EFFECTS OF MIRAGE AND REFRACTION--RETURN TO THE
CAMP--SUPPLY OF WATER EXHAUSTED--LEAVE THE DEPOT--THE MUNDY--THE
BURR--MOUNT SERLE--LAKE TORRENS TO THE EAST--MELANCHOLY PROSPECTS.
August 16.--UPON reaching the camp the extraordinary behaviour of the
natives was soon explained to me. At the time when I left the depot on
the 11th of August, in giving the overseer general directions for his
guidance, I had among other matters requested him, if he found any
natives in the neighbourhood, to try and get one up to the camp and
induce him to remain until my return, that we might, if possible, gain
some information as to the nature of the country or the direction of the
waters. In endeavouring to carry out my wishes, it seems he had one day
come across two or three natives in the plain, to whom he gave chase when
they ran away. The men escaped, but he came up with one of the females
and took her a prisoner to the camp, where he kept her for a couple of
days, but could gain no information from her; she either could not be
understood, or would not tell where there was water, although when signs
were made to her on the subject, she pointed to the east and to the
north-west. After keeping her for two days, during which, with the
exception of being a prisoner, she had been kindly treated, she was let
go with the present of a shirt and handkerchief.
It was to revenge this aggression that the natives had now assembled; for
which I could not blame them, nor could I help regretting that the
precipitancy of my overseer should have placed me in a position which
might possibly bring me into collision with the natives, and occasion a
sacrifice of life; an occurrence I should deplore most deeply under any
circumstances, but which would be doubly lamentable when I knew that my
own party had committed the first act of aggression.
The number of natives said to have been seen altogether, including women
and children, was between fifty and sixty, and though they had yet
actually committed no overt act against us, with the exception of trying
to steal upon myself and the native boy as we returned; yet they had
established themselves in the close vicinity of our encampment, and
repeatedly exhibited signs of defiance, such as throwing dust into the
air, shouting, and threatening with their weapons, and once or twice, the
evening before my arrival, crossing within a very short distance of the
tents, as if for the purpose of reconnoitring our position and strength;
I determined, however, nothing but the last extremity should ever induce
me to act on the defensive. [Note 6: "And they cried out, and cast off
their clothes, and threw dust into the air."--Acts xxii. 23.]
When on my return to the depot, I had seen the natives creeping after me
with their spears, I and the native boy at once halted, turned round and
went slowly towards them, upon this they retreated. They would see by
this that we did not fear them, and as the party at the camp had been
increased in number by our return, I thought they might probably be more
cautious in their hostile demonstrations, which for the present was the
case, for we saw nothing more of them for some time.
During my absence, the overseer, according to my instructions, had put a
party of men to dig for water in the bed of the creek, about four miles
from the depot, in a westerly direction and down upon the plains. They
were busy when I arrived at the depot; the soil already dug through had
been a very hard gravel, but as yet no water had been found, they had got
to a depth of about ten feet; but from the indurated character of the
soil were proceeding very slowly.
I was, however, too much fatigued to go and inspect the work immediately,
the boy and myself as well as the horses being completely worn out. We
had ridden in the last five days and a half, about two hundred miles, and
walked about twenty up and down rocky and precipitous creeks, whilst, for
the last two nights before our arrival we had scarcely been off the
horses' back.
On the 17th, which was dreadfully hot, I went in the afternoon to see
what progress was being made at the well, and found that only two feet
had been dug in the last twenty-four hours, whilst just as I arrived the
men came to a solid mass of rock, and could sink no further; I at once
ordered them to return to the camp, as I did not think it worth while to
make further attempts in so unkindly a soil, and indeed I was unwilling
to have my little party too much divided in the neighbourhood of so many
natives. The men themselves were very glad to get back to the camp,
having been apprehensive of an attack for the last two or three days.
August 18.--This morning I sent off the overseer and a native boy to the
eastward, to look for water in the watercourses I had been at on the 5th
of August, the Scott not having then been discovered; they would now be
thirty-six miles nearer water than any I was acquainted with at that
time, and would consequently be less hurried and embarrassed in their
movements than I was. By giving them a pack-horse to carry ten gallons of
water, I hoped they would be able to examine all the watercourses so
effectually as to secure the object of their search, for I felt satisfied
that water was to be found somewhere among the high ranges we had seen in
the direction they were going; I also directed the overseer to visit the
camp where the two native children had been left, and to see what had
been their fate.
During the day I employed myself in writing; the weather was excessively
close and oppressive, with heavy clouds coming up from the S. W. against
the wind at N. E. At night it blew almost a hurricane, accompanied by a
few drops of rain, after which, the wind then veered round to the north.
The 19th was another oppressive hot day, with a northerly wind, and
clouds of dust which darkened the air so that we could not see the hills
distinctly, although we were close under them. The flies were also
incessant in their persecuting attacks. What with flies and dust, and
heat and indisposition, I scarcely ever remember to have spent a more
disagreeable day in my life. My eyes were swollen and very sore, and
altogether I was scarcely able to attend to any thing or employ myself in
any profitable way.
August 20.--Some slight showers during the night made the weather cool
and pleasant, the day too was cloudy, and I was enabled to occupy myself
in charting, working out observations, etc. whilst Mr. Scott, by shooting,
supplied us with some wallabies. This animal is very like a rabbit when
running, and quite as delicate and excellent in eating.
August 21.--Not having seen the natives for the last two days, I thought
I might venture to explore the watercourse we were encamped upon, and set
off on horseback immediately after breakfast, accompanied by Mr. Scott.
We traced up its stony and rugged bed for about seven miles among the
hills, to a point where the scenery was peculiarly grand and sublime. The
cliffs rose perpendicularly from the channel of the watercourse to a
height of from six to eight hundred feet, towering above us in awful and
imposing prominencies. At their base was a large pool of clear though
brackish water; and a little beyond a clump of rushes, indicating the
existence of a spring. In the centre of these rushes the natives had dug
a small well, but the water was no better than that in the larger pool.
The natives generally resort to such places as these when the rain water
is dried up in the plains or among the hills immediately skirting them.
Far among the fastnesses of the interior ranges, these children of the
wilds find resources which always sustain them when their ordinary
supplies are cut off; but they are not of corresponding advantage to the
explorer, because they are difficult of access, not easily found, and
seldom contain any food for his horses, so that he can barely call at
them and pass on. Such was the wretched and impracticable character of
the country in which we were now placed.
Having tied up our horses, Mr. Scott and I ascended to the top of the
high cliff by winding along the ridges at the back of it. From its summit
we had an extensive view, and I was enabled to take several angles. One
of the high peaks in the Mount Deception range bearing S. 35 degrees W.
about five miles off I named Mount Scott. To the east were seen high
ranges, to which I had sent my overseer. Descending the hill we examined
the course of the watercourse a few miles further, and ascertaining that
there was no more water in it, retraced our steps towards the depot,
somewhat fatigued with clambering up rocky ranges under the oppressive
heat of an almost tropical sun.
In the course of the morning Mr. Scott shot a rock wallabie of rather a
large species, and many more were seen about the high perpendicular cliff
under which we had found the water. These singular animals appeared to
have a wonderful facility for scaling precipices, for they leapt and
clambered up among the steep sides of the cliffs in a manner quite
incredible, and where it was perfectly impossible for any human being to
follow them.
In the evening the overseer and native boy returned, they had traced up
the watercourse I turned back from on the 5th of August, and had found
water in it about eight miles beyond where I gave up the search. They had
also visited the native camp where the two little children had been left
deserted, they were now gone, and the whole plain around had been strewed
with green boughs. The handkerchief I had tied round the eldest child had
been taken off and left at the camp, the natives probably dreading to
have anything to do with property belonging to such fearful enchanters as
they doubtless suspected us to be.
Our party being once more all together, it became necessary to decide
upon our future movements, the water in the hole at the depot being
nearly all used, and what was left being very muddy and unpalatable.
Before I abandoned our present position, however, I was anxious to make a
journey to the shores of Lake Torrens to the westward; I had already
visited its basin at points fully 150 miles apart, viz. in about 29
degrees 10 minutes S. latitude, and in 31 degrees 30 minutes S. I had
also traced its course from various heights in Flinders range, from which
it was distinctly visible, and in my mind, had not the slightest doubt
that it was one continuous and connected basin. Still, from the hills of
our present depot, it was not visible to the north of west, and I should
not have felt myself justified in going away to the eastward, without
positively ascertaining its connection with the basin I was at to the
north-west; accordingly, as soon as the overseer returned I got ready for
another harassing and uninteresting journey to the westward.
August 22.--Setting off early this morning, accompanied by a native boy,
I steered W.N.W. For the first four miles, I took my overseer along with
me, to shew him the direction I intended to take, so that if I did not
return in two days, he might send a pack-horse with water to meet me
along the tracks.
After he had left I pushed steadily on for thirty-five miles, principally
over heavy sandy ridges, which were very fatiguing to the horses, and at
dark reached the outer dunes of the lake, where I was obliged to tie the
horses up to some small bushes, as there was neither water nor grass for
them. The bed of the lake where I struck it, seemed dry for some distance
from the shore, but towards the middle there appeared to be a large body
of water. From our camp Mount Deception bore E. 26 degrees S. and
Termination Hill, E. 35 degrees N.
August 23.--Starting early, I traced the course of the lake
north-westerly for ten miles, and was then able to satisfy myself that it
was a part of the same vast basin I had seen so much further to the
north, it inclined here considerably to the westward, and this
circumstance added to the high sandy ridges intervening between it and
Flinders range fully explained the cause of our not having observed its
course to the north of west from the hills near our depot. Crossing the
sandy ridge bounding the basin of the lake, I was surprised to see its
bed apparently much contracted, and the opposite shore distinctly
visible, high, rocky and bluff to the edge of the water, seemingly only
seven or eight miles distant, and with several small islands or rocks
scattered over its surface. This was however only deceptive, and caused
by the very refractive state of the atmosphere at the time, for upon
dismounting and leading the horses into the bed of the lake, the opposite
shore appeared to recede, and the rocks or islands turned out to be only
very small lumps of dirt or clay lying in the bed of the lake, and
increased in magnitude by refraction.
I penetrated into the basin of the lake for about six miles, and found it
so far without surface water. On entering at first, the horses sunk a
little in a stiff mud, after breaking through a white crust of salt,
which everywhere coated the surface and was about one eighth of an inch
in thickness, as we advanced the mud became much softer and greatly mixed
with salt water below the surface, until at last we found it impossible
to advance a step further, as the horses had already sunk up to their
bellies in the bog, and I was afraid we should never be able to extricate
them, and get them safely back to the shore. Could we have gone on for
some distance, I have no doubt that we should have found the bed of the
lake occupied by water, as there was every appearance of a large body of
it at a few miles to the west. As we advanced a great alteration had
taken place, in the aspect of the western shores. The bluff rocky banks
were no longer visible, but a low level country appeared to the view at
seemingly about fifteen or twenty miles distance. From the extraordinary
and deceptive appearances, caused by mirage and refraction, however, it
was impossible to tell what to make of sensible objects, or what to
believe on the evidence of vision, for upon turning back to retrace our
steps to the eastward, a vast sheet of water appeared to intervene
between us and the shore, whilst the Mount Deception ranges, which I knew
to be at least thirty-five miles distant, seemed to rise out of the bed
of the lake itself, the mock waters of which were laving their base, and
reflecting the inverted outline of their rugged summits. The whole scene
partook more of enchantment than reality, and as the eye wandered over
the smooth and unbroken crust of pure white salt which glazed the basin
of the lake, and which was lit up by the dazzling rays of a noonday sun,
the effect was glittering, and brilliant beyond conception.
[Very similar appearances seem to have been observed by Monsieur Peron,
on the S. W. coast near Geographe Bay. "A cette epoque nous eprouvions les
effets les plus singuliers du mirage; tantot les terres les plus
uniformes et les plus basses nous paroissoient portees au dessus des
eaux, et profondement dechirrees dans toutes leurs parties; tantot leurs
cretes superieures sembloient renversees, et reposer ainsi sur les
vagues; a chaque instant on croyoit voir au large de longues chaines de
recifs, et de brisans qui sembloient se reculer a mesure qu'on s'en
approchoit davantage."--VOYAGE DE DECOUVERTES AUX TERRES AUSTRALES REDIGE
PAR PERON.]
Upon regaining the eastern shore, I found that all I had been able to
effect was to determine that the lake still continued its course to the
N.W. that it was still guided as before, by a ridge like a sea shore,
that its area was undiminished, that its bed was dry on the surface for
at least six miles from the outer margin, and that from the increasing
softness of the mud, occasioned by its admixture with water, as I
proceeded there was every probability that still further west, water
would be found upon the surface. Beyond these few facts, all was
uncertainty and conjecture in this region of magic. Turning away from the
lake, I retraced my steps towards the depot, and halted at dark after a
stage of nearly forty miles. Here was neither grass nor water, and again
I was obliged to tie up the unfortunate horses, jaded, hungry and
thirsty.
During the night, I released one of the poor animals for an hour or two,
thinking he would not stray from his companion, and might, perhaps, crop
a few of the little shrubs growing on the sand ridges, but on searching
for him in the morning he was gone, and I had to walk twelve miles over
the heavy sand tracking him, the boy following along our outward track
with the other horse, for fear of missing the man who was to meet us with
water.
The stray horse had fortunately kept near the line we had followed in
going to the lake, and I came upon him in a very weak and miserable
condition, soon after the arrival of the man who had been sent to meet us
with water. By care and slow travelling, we reached the depot safely in
the afternoon, having crossed in going and returning, upwards of 100
miles of desert country, during the last three days, in which the horses
had got nothing either to eat or drink. It is painful in the extreme, to
be obliged to subject them to such hardships, but alas, in such a
country, what else can be done.
In the evening, I directed the overseer to have every thing got ready for
breaking up our encampment on the morrow, as the party had been fifteen
days in depot, and little else than mud remained in the hole which had
supplied them with water.
August 25.--Slight showers during the night, and the day dark and cloudy,
with rather an oppressive atmosphere. The horses had strayed during the
night, so that it was nine o'clock before we got away.
We had scarcely left the place of encampment, when shoutings were heard,
and signal fires lit up in every direction by the natives, to give
warning I imagine of our being abroad, and to call stragglers to their
camp. These people had still remained in our immediate vicinity, and were
now assembled in very considerable numbers on the brow of one of the
front ridges, to watch us pass by. They would not approach us, but as the
drays moved on kept running in a line with them, at some distance, and
occasionally shouting and gesticulating in an unintelligible manner.
In our first and only intercourse with these natives, we had
unfortunately given them just cause of offence, and I was most anxious,
if possible, before leaving, to efface the unfavourable impression which
they had received. Letting the drays therefore move on, I remained behind
with Mr. Scott, leading our horses, and trying to induce some of the
natives to come up to us; for a long time, however, our efforts were in
vain, but at last I succeeded in persuading a fine athletic looking man
to approach within a moderate distance; I then shewed him a tomahawk,
which I laid on the ground, making signs that I intended it for him. When
I had retired a little, he went and took it up, evidently comprehending
its use, and appearing much pleased with the gift; the others soon
congregated around him, and Mr. Scott and I mounting our horses, followed
the party, leaving the sable council to discuss the merits of their new
acquisition, and hoping that the unfavourable opinion with which we had
at first impressed them, would be somewhat modified for the future.
Steering N. 43 degrees W. for five miles, and then winding through the
range, in the bed of a watercourse to the plains on the other side, we
took a direction of E. 20 degrees N. for fifteen miles, arriving about
dark upon a small channel that I had crossed on the 14th of August. Here
was good feed for the horses, and plenty of water a little way up among
the hills. This watercourse I had not examined when I was here before,
preferring to trace up the larger one beyond instead. Had I followed
this, I should easily have found water, and been relieved from much of
the anxiety which I had then undergone.
In travelling through a country previously unexplored, no pains should be
spared in examining every spot, even the most unlikely, where it is
possible for water to exist, for after searching in vain, in large deep
rocky and likely looking watercourses, I have frequently found water in
some small branch or gorge, that had appeared too insignificant, or too
uninviting to require to be explored. This I named The Mundy, after my
friend, Alfred Mundy, Esq., now the Colonial Secretary of South
Australia.
Early this morning, I took Mr. Scott with me, to examine The Mundy,
leaving the overseer to proceed with the party.
After entering the hills a short distance, we found in the bed of the
Mundy a strongly running stream, connecting several reaches of waters,
upon which many black ducks were sailing about. This appeared to be one
of the finest and best streams we had yet discovered, although the water
was slightly impregnated with alum. After the watercourse left the hills,
the surface water all disappeared, the drainage being then absorbed by
the light sandy soil of the plains, and this had invariably been the case
with all the waters emanating from Flinders range.
Crossing some stony ridges, we followed the party up the large
watercourse, which I had traced so far on the 5th of August, since named
the Burr, after the Deputy Surveyor-general of the colony, and at
nineteen miles halted early in the afternoon, at some springs rising
among rocks and rushes in its bed. The water was very brackish, though
drinkable, but did not extend far on either side of the spot we were
encamped at, and when after dinner, I took a long walk up the watercourse
to search for more, I was unable to find any either in the main channel
or its branches. The grass was abundant and good. The latitude of the
camp I ascertained to be 30 degrees 27 minutes S.
August 27.--Having risen and breakfasted very early, I took Mr. Scott and
a native boy with me, and steered for a very high hill with rather a
rounded summit, bearing from our camp E. 17 degrees S. This I named Mount
Serle, in accordance with a request made to me before my departure, by
the Governor, that I would name some remarkable feature in the country
after Mr. Serle. This was the most prominent object we had hitherto met
with; among high ranges it appeared the highest, and from a height above
our present encampment, it had been selected by us as the most likely
point from which to obtain a view to the eastward.
The elevation of this hill could not be less than three thousand feet
above the level of the sea; but unfortunately, the injury my barometer
had sustained in the escape of some of the mercury, and my being unable
to fill it again properly, quite precluded me from ascertaining the
height with accuracy.
In our route to Mount Serle, we observed another hill rather more to the
northward, seemingly of as great an altitude as Mount Serle itself; this
was not situate in the Mount Serle range, nor had it been seen by us in
our view from the height above the depot.
At ten miles from our camp, we came to a large watercourse, emanating
from the Mount Serle range on the south side, and running close under its
western aspect, with an abundance of excellent clear water in it. This I
named the Frome, after the Surveyor-general of the colony, to whose
kindness I was so much indebted in preparing my outfit and for the loan
of instruments for the use of the expedition.
Having watered our horses we tied them up to some trees, and commenced
the ascent of Mount Serle on foot. The day was exceedingly hot, and we
found our task a much harder one than we had anticipated, being compelled
to wind up and down several steep and rugged ridges before we could reach
the main one.
At length, however, having overcome all difficulties we stood upon the
summit of the mountain. Our view was then extensive and final. At one
glance I saw the realization of my worst forebodings; and the termination
of the expedition of which I had the command. Lake Torrens now faced us
to the east, whilst on every side we were hemmed in by a barrier which we
could never hope to pass. Our toils and labours and privations, had all
been endured to no purpose; and the only alternative left us would be to
return, disappointed and baffled.
To the north and north-west the horizon was unbroken to the naked eye,
but with the aid of a powerful telescope I could discover fragments of
table land similar to those I had seen in the neighbourhood of the lake
in that direction. At N. 8 degrees W. a very small haycock-looking hill
might be seen above the level waste, probably the last of the low spurs
of Flinders range to the north. To the north-east, the view was
obstructed by a high range immediately in front of us, but to the east
and as far as E. 13 degrees S. we saw through a break in the hills, a
broad glittering belt in appearance, like the bed of a lake, but
apparently dry.
The ranges seemed to continue to the eastward of Mount Serle for about
fifteen miles, and then terminated abruptly in a low, level,
scrubby-looking country, also about fifteen miles in extent, between the
hills and the borders of the lake. The latter appearing about twenty-five
miles across, whilst beyond it was a level region without a height or
elevation of any kind.
Connecting the view before me with the fact that on the 14th August, when
in about lat. 29 degrees S., I had found Lake Torrens turning round to
the north-east, and had observed no continuation of Flinders range to the
eastward of my position, I could now no longer doubt that I had almost
arrived at the termination of that range, and that the glittering belt I
now saw to the east, was in fact only an arm of the lake taking the
drainage from its eastern slopes.
Sad and painful were the thoughts that occupied my mind in returning to
the camp. Hitherto, even when placed in the most difficult or desperate
circumstances I was cheered by hope, but now I had no longer even that
frail solace to cling to, there was no mistaking the nature of the
country, by which we were surrounded on every side, and no room for
doubting its impracticability.
Chapter VII.
EXCURSION TO THE NORTH-EAST--TRACE DOWN THE FROME--WATER BECOMES
SALT--PASS BEYOND THE RANGES--COCKATOOS SEEN--HEAVY RAINS--DRY
WATER-COURSES--MOUNT DISTANCE--BRINE SPRINGS--MOUNT HOPELESS--TERMINATION
OF FLINDERS RANGE--LAKE TORRENS TO THE NORTH AND TO THE EAST--ALL FURTHER
ADVANCE HOPELESS--YOUNG EMUS CAUGHT--REJOIN PARTY--MOVE BACK TOWARDS
MOUNT ARDEN--LOSS OF A HORSE--ARRIVE AT THE DEPOT--PLANS FOR THE
FUTURE--TAKE UP STORES--PREPARE FOR LEAVING.
Upon returning to the depot at the Burr, I decided upon making an
excursion to the north-east, to ascertain the actual termination of
Flinders range, and the nature of the prospect beyond it; not to satisfy
myself, for a single glance from the eminence I had recently occupied at
Mount Serle, had for ever set my curiosity at rest on these points, but
in discharge of the duty I owed to the Governor, and the promoters of the
expedition, who could not be expected to be satisfied with a bare
conjecture on a subject which they had sent me practically to
demonstrate, however fairly from circumstances the conclusions might be
deduced at which I had been compelled to arrive. Accordingly, on the
morning of the 29th, I took with me my overseer, one man, a native boy,
and a cart drawn by three horses to carry water; and making an early
start, proceeded to attempt for the last time to penetrate into those
regions of gloom.
After travelling ten miles, we arrived at the Frome, where we watered and
fed the horses. From this place I sent the overseer on before us, to see
how far the water extended, that we might determine where to fix our
halting-place for the night. After resting awhile we proceeded on with
the cart, tracing down the watercourse over a very rough and stony road
on which the cart was upset, but without any serious damage, and passing
several very large and fine water-holes with many teal and wood-duck upon
them.
At eight miles from where we lunched, we encamped with abundance of
water, but very little grass. The latitude by meridian altitude of Altair
was 30 degrees 18 minutes 30 seconds S. In the evening the overseer
returned, and stated there was water for nine miles further, but that the
road was very rocky and bad.
August 30.--Leaving the overseer to bring on the cart, I rode on a-head
down the watercourse to trace the continuance of the water. The road I
found to be very bad, and at twenty-three miles, upon tasting the water I
found it as salt as the sea, and the bed of the creek quite impracticable
for a cart; I therefore hurried back for seven miles, and halted the
party at the last good water-hole, which was about sixteen miles from our
yesterday's camp.
We had seen many ducks during the day, two of which I shot, and the black
boy found a nest with fresh eggs in it, so that we fared more luxuriously
than usual. The night set in very dark and windy, but no rain fell.
August 31.--This morning I sent the overseer back to the depot with the
cart and two horses, whilst I and the native boy proceeded on our route
on horseback, taking also a man leading a pack-horse to carry water for
us the first day. Following down the watercourse, we passed through some
imposing scenery, consisting of cliffs from six to eight hundred feet in
height, rising perpendicularly from their bases, below which were
recesses, into which the sun never shone, and whose gloomy grandeur
imparted a melancholy cast to the thoughts and feelings, in unison with
the sublimity of the scene around.
After travelling twelve miles from the camp, we got clear of the hills,
and found an open country before us to the north; through this we
proceeded for ten miles further, still following the direction of the
watercourse, and halting upon it for the night, after having made a stage
of twenty-two miles. We had tolerable grass for the horses, but were
obliged to give them water from the kegs.
At this place I was much astonished to see four white cockatoos, flying
about among the gum-trees in the watercourse, and immediately commenced a
narrow search for water, as I knew those birds did not frequently go far
away from it: there was not, however, a drop to be found anywhere, nor
the least sign of there having been any for a long time. What made the
circumstance of finding cockatoos here so surprising and unusual was,
that for the last two hundred miles we had never seen one at all. Where
then had these four birds come from? could it be that they had followed
under Flinders range from the south, and had strayed so far away from all
others of their kind, or had they come from some better country beyond
the desert by which I was surrounded, or how was that country to be
attained, supposing it to exist? Time only may reply to these queries,
but the occasion which prompted them was, to say the least,
extraordinary.
Towards night the sky became overcast with clouds, and as I saw that we
should have rain, I set to work with the boy and made a house of boughs
for our protection, but the man who accompanied us was too indolent to
take the same precaution, thinking probably that the rain would pass away
as it had often done before. In this, however, he was disappointed, for
the rain came down in torrents [Note 7 at end para.]--in an hour or two
the whole country was inundated, and he was taught a lesson of industry at
the expense of a thorough and unmitigated drenching.
[Note 7: This will not appear surprising, when the great amount of rain
which falls annually in some parts of Australia, is taken into account.
The Count Strzelecki gives 62.68 inches, as the average annual fall for
upwards of twenty years, at Port Macquarie.--At p. 193, that gentleman
remarks:--"The greatest fall of rain recorded in New South Wales, during
24 hours, amounted to 25 inches. (Port Jackson)."]
September 1.--This morning I sent the man back to the depot with the
pack-horse, with orders to the overseer to move back the party as rapidly
as possible towards Mount Arden, that by taking advantage of the rain we
might make a short route through the plains, and avoid the necessity of
going up among the rugged and stony watercourses of the hills.
This retrograde movement was rendered absolutely necessary from our
present position, for since we had wound through the hills to the north,
and come out upon the open plains, I saw that Flinders range had
terminated, and I now only wished to trace its northern termination so
far east as to enable me to see round it to the southward, as well as to
ascertain the character and appearance of the country to the north and to
the east; as soon therefore as the man had left, I proceeded at a course
of E. 35 degrees N. for a low and very distant elevation, apparently the
last of the hills to the eastward, this I named Mount Distance, for it
deceived us greatly as to the distance we were from it.
In passing through the plains, which were yesterday so arid and dry, I
found immense pools, nay almost large reaches of water lodged in the
hollows, and in which boats might have floated. Such was the result of
only an hour or two's rain, whilst the ground itself, formerly so hard,
was soft and boggy in the extreme, rendering progress much slower and
more fatiguing to the horses than it otherwise would have been. By
steadily persevering we made a stage of thirty-five miles, but were
obliged to encamp at night some miles short of the little height I had
been steering for.
During our ride we passed several dry watercourses at five, ten,
twenty-five, thirty, and thirty-five miles from our last encampment. The
last we halted upon with good feed for the horses, and rainwater lodged
everywhere. All these watercourses took their course to the north,
emptying and losing themselves in the plains. In the evening heavy
showers again fell, and the night set in very dark.
September 2.--After travelling seven miles we ascended Mount Distance,
and from it I could see that the hills now bore S. and S.E. and were
getting much lower, so that we were rapidly rounding their northern
extremity. To the north and north-east were seen only broken fragments of
table lands, similar to what I found near the lake to the north-west; the
lake itself, however, was nowhere visible, and I saw that I should have
another day's hard riding before I could satisfactorily determine its
direction. Upon descending I steered for a distant low haycock-like peak
in the midst of one of the table-topped fragments; from this rise I
expected the view would be decisive, and I named it Mount Hopeless.--From
Mount Distance it bore E. 25 degrees N.
Crossing many little stony ridges, and passing the channel of several
watercourses, I discovered a new and still more disheartening feature in
the country, the existence of brine springs. Hitherto we had found
brackish and occasionally salt water in some of the watercourses, but by
tracing them up among the hills, we had usually found the quality to
improve as we advanced, but now the springs were out in the open plains,
and the water poisoned at its very source.
Occasionally round the springs were a few coarse rushes, but the soil in
other respects was quite bare, destitute of vegetation, and thickly
coated over with salt, presenting the most miserable and melancholy
aspect imaginable. We were now in nearly the same latitude as that in
which Captain Sturt had discovered brine springs in the bed of the
Darling, and which had rendered even that river so perfectly salt that
his party could not make use of it.
September 2.--At thirty-five miles we reached the little elevation I had
been steering for, and ascended Mount Hopeless, and cheerless and
hopeless indeed was the prospect before us. As I had anticipated, the
view was both extensive and decisive. We were now past all the ranges;
and for three quarters of the compass, extending from south, round by
east and north, to west, the horizon was one unbroken level, except where
the fragments of table land, or the ridge of the lake, interrupted its
uniformity
The lake was now visible to the north and to the east; and I had at last
ascertained, beyond all doubt, that its basin, commencing near the head
of Spencer's Gulf, and following the course of Flinders range (bending
round its northern extreme to the southward), constituted those hills the
termination of the island of South Australia, for such I imagine it once
to have been. This closed all my dreams as to the expedition, and put an
end to an undertaking from which so much was anticipated. I had now a
view before me that would have damped the ardour of the most
enthusiastic, or dissipated the doubts of the most seeptical. To the
showers that fell on the evening of the 31st of August, we were solely
indebted for having been able to travel thus far; had there been much
more rain the country would have been impracticable for horses,--if less
we could not have procured water to have enabled us to make such a push
as we had done.
The lake where it was visible, appeared, as it had ever done, to be from
twenty-five to thirty miles across, and its distance from Mount Hopeless
was nearly the same. The hills to the S. and S. W. of us, seemed to
terminate on the eastern slopes, as abruptly as on the western; and from
the point where we stood, we could distinctly trace by the gum-trees, the
direction of watercourses emanating from among them, taking northerly,
north-easterly, easterly and south-easterly courses, according to the
point of the range they came from. This had been the case during the
whole of our route under Flinder's range. We had at first found the
watercourses going to the south of west, then west, north-west, north,
and now north-east, east and south-east. I had, at the same time,
observed all around this mountain mass, the appearance of the bed of a
large lake, following the general course of the ranges on every side, and
receiving, apparently, the whole drainage from them.
On its western, and north-western shores, I had ascertained by actual
examination, that its basin was a very low level, clearly defined, and
effectually inclosed by an elevated continuous sandy ridge, like the
outer boundary of a sea-shore, its area being of immense extent, and its
bed of so soft and yielding a nature, as to make it quite impossible to
cross it. All these points I had decided positively, and finally, as far
as regards that part of Lake Torrens, from near the head of Spencer's
Gulf, to the most north-westerly part of it, which I visited on the 14th
of August, embracing a course of fully 200 miles in its outline. I had
done this, too, under circumstances of great difficulty, toil, and
anxiety, and not without the constant risk of losing my horses, from the
fatigues and privations of the forced labours I was obliged to impose
upon them.
Having ascertained these particulars, and at so much hazard, relative to
Lake Torrens, for so great a part of its course, what conclusion could I
arrive at with regard to the character of its other half to the
north-east, and east of Flinders ranges, as seen from Mount Hopeless, and
Mount Serle points, nearly ninety miles apart! The appearances from the
ranges were similar; the trend of all the watercourses was to the same
basin, and undoubtedly that basin, if traced far enough, must be of
nearly the same level on the eastern, as on the western side of the
ranges. I had completely ascertained that Flinders range had terminated
to the eastward, the north-east, and the north; that there were no hills
or elevations connected with it beyond, in any of these directions, and
that the horizon every where was one low uninterrupted level.
With such data, and under such circumstances, what other opinion could I
possibly arrive at, than that the bed of Lake Torrens was nearly similar
in its character, and equally impracticable in its eastern, as its
western arm; and that, considering the difficulties I had encountered,
and the hazards I had subjected myself to, in ascertaining these points
so minutely on the western side, I could not be justified in renewing
those risks to the eastward, where the nature and extent of the
impediments were so self-evidently the same, and where there was not the
slightest hope of any useful result being attained by it.
I was now more than a hundred miles away from my party; and having sent
them orders to move back towards Mount Arden, I had no time to lose in
following them. With bitter feelings of disappointment I turned from the
dreary and cheerless scene around me, and pushing the horses on as well
as circumstances would allow, succeeded in retracing ten miles of my
course by a little after dark, having completed a stage of fully
forty-five miles during the day. Here there was tolerable good grass, and
plenty of water from the late rains, so that the horses were more
fortunate on this excursion than usual. I observed the variation to be 4
degrees E.
September 3.--Travelling early, we made a long stage of about forty
miles, and encamped with good grass and water. During the day we caught
four young emus in the plains, which we roasted for supper, being very
hungry, and upon short allowance, as I had not calculated upon remaining
out so long; the black boy enjoyed them exceedingly, and I managed to get
through one myself. They were about the size of full grown fowls.
September 4.--Making a very early start, we travelled twenty miles to the
watercourse, where we had encamped on the 31st of August, striking it a
little lower down. As I had left one or two trifles here, that I wished
to take on with me, I sent the black boy for them, telling him to follow
my tracks while I went slowly on. Upon finding that he did not overtake
me so soon as I expected, I halted for some time, but still he did not
come up, and I again proceeded; for as I had left my former track, I
concluded he had taken that line, and thus missed me. Steering,
therefore, across the hills, some of which were very stony and broken, I
made for the Mundy, which I reached very late in the evening, and found
the party safely encamped there.
I had rode fifty-five miles, and had been on horseback about thirteen
hours, so that both myself and horse were well nigh knocked up. The black
boy had not arrived, nor did he come up during the night.
The next day, becoming uneasy about his absence, I detained the party in
the camp, and sent Mr. Scott to search for him, who fortunately met him
almost immediately he had left us. The boy's detention had been
occasioned by the fagged condition of his horse, which prevented the
possibility of his overtaking me. As the day was wet, I did not move on,
but gave the party a day's rest, whilst I employed myself in meditating
upon the disappointment I had experienced, and the future steps it might
be most advisable to take to carry out the objects of the expedition. I
was still determined not to give up the undertaking,--but rather to
attempt to penetrate either to the eastward or westward, and to try to
find some other line of route that might afford a practicable opening to
the interior.
September 6.--Moving on the party early to-day, I pushed steadily towards
the depot near Mount Arden. In doing this, the favourable state of the
weather enabled us to keep more in the open plains, and thus both to
avoid a good deal of rough ground, and to shorten the road considerably.
Upon mustering the horses on the 9th, the overseer reported to me that
one of them was lying down with a broken leg, and upon going to examine
him, I found that it was one of the police horses kindly lent to the
expedition by the Governor. During the night some other horse had kicked
him and broken the thigh bone of the hind leg. The poor animal was in
great pain and unable to rise at all, I was therefore obliged to order
the overseer to shoot him. By this accident we lost a most useful horse
at a time when we could but ill spare one.
During our progress to the south we had frequently showers and
occasionally heavy rains, which lodging in puddles on the plains,
supplied us abundantly with water, and we were unusually fortunate enough
to obtain grass also. We were thus enabled to push on upon nearly a
straight course, which, after seven days of hard travelling, brought us
once more, on the afternoon of the 12th, to our old position at the depot
near Mount Arden. I had intended to have halted the party here for a day
or two, to recruit after the severe march we had just terminated; but the
weather was so favourable and the season so far advanced, that I did not
like to lose an hour in following out my prospective plans.
During the homeward journey from the Mundy, I had reflected much on the
position in which I was placed, and spent many an anxious hour in
deliberating as to the future. I had one of three alternatives to choose,
either to give up the expedition altogether;--to cross to the Murray to
the east and follow up that river to the Darling;--or by crossing over to
Streaky Bay to the westward, to endeavour to find some opening leading
towards the interior in that direction. After weighing well the
advantages and disadvantages of each (and there were many objections to
them all,) I determined upon adopting the last, for reasons which will be
found in my Report sent to the Governor, and to the Chairman of the
Northern Expedition Committee from Port Lincoln. [Note 8: Vide Chapter
IX.] My mind having thus been made up, I knew, from former experience,
that I had no time to lose, now that the weather was showery and
favourable, and that if I delayed at all in putting my plans into
execution I might probably be unable to cross from Mount Arden to
Streaky Bay. The distance between these two points was upwards of
two hundred miles, through a barren and desert region, in which,
though among high ranges, I had on a former occasion been unable to
discover any permanent water, and through which we could only hope
to pass by taking advantage of the puddles left by the late rains;
I therefore decided upon halting at the depot to rest the horses
even for a day; and the party had no sooner reached their encampment,
than, while one portion of the men took the horses up the watercourse to
water, the others were employed in digging up the stores we had buried
here, and in repacking and rearranging all the loads ready to move on
again immediately. By the evening all the arrangements were completed and
the whole party retired to rest much fatigued.
Chapter VIII.
PROCEED TO THE WESTWARD--CHANNEL OF COMMUNICATION BETWEEN LAKE TORRENS
AND SPENCER'S GULF--BAXTER'S RANGE--DIVIDE THE PARTY--ROUTE TOWARDS PORT
LINCOLN--SCRUB--FRUITLESS SEARCH FOR WATER--SEND DRAY BACK FOR
WATER--PLUNDERED BY THE NATIVES--RETURN OF DRAY--DENSE SCRUB--REFUGE
ROCKS--DENSE SCRUB--SALT CREEK--MOUNT HILL--DENSE SCRUB--LARGE
WATERCOURSE--ARRIVE AT A STATION--RICH AND GRASSY VALLEYS--CHARACTER OF
PORT LINCOLN PENINSULA--UNABLE TO PROCURE SUPPLIES--ENGAGE A BOAT TO SEND
OVER TO ADELAIDE--BUY SHEEP.
September 13.--UPON leaving the depot this morning I was obliged to leave
behind a very large tarpaulin which we did not require, and which from
the extra weight we had last night put upon the drays, we could not
conveniently carry. Steering to the south-west we came at twelve miles to
the head of Spencer's Gulf, and crossed the channel connecting it with
Lake Torrens. At this place it is not very wide, but its bed like that of
the lake is soft and boggy, with salt water mixed with the mud. We had a
good deal of difficulty in getting over it, and one of the drays having
stuck fast, we had to unload it, carrying the things over on men's backs.
A few miles beyond this we halted for the night, where there was good
grass for the horses and plenty of water in the puddles around us. We
crossed principally during the day, a rather heavy sandy country, but
were now encamped in plains of a firmer and better character for the
drays.
September 14.--Travelling on through open plains with loose gravelly
stones, lying on their surface, we passed to the south of a small
table-topped hill, visible from Mount Arden, and very much resembling the
fragments of table land that I had met with to the north. This however
was somewhat larger than those, and though steep-sided as they were it
did not disclose the same white strata of chalk and gypsum, its formation
being more rocky and of rather a slaty character.
September 15.--Pushing on rapidly over extensive plains very similar to
those we had already crossed, we arrived, after a long stage, under
Baxter's range, and encamped upon a small channel coming from it, with
abundance of water and good grass. This range is high and rocky, rising
abruptly out of the plains, and distinctly visible from Mount Arden, from
which it is about fifty miles distant. Its formation is entirely
conglomerate of rather a coarse description. Among its rugged overhanging
steeps are many of the large red species of wallabie similar to those we
had seen to the north at the Scott. Two of these we shot. The latitude of
our camp at Baxter's range was 32 degrees 40 minutes S.
September 16.--Remained in camp to-day to rest the horses and prepare for
dividing the party, as from the great abundance of rain that had fallen,
I no longer apprehended a scarcity of water on the route to Streaky Bay,
and therefore decided upon sending my overseer across with the party,
whilst I myself took a dray down direct to Port Lincoln, on the west side
of Spencer's Gulf, to obtain additional supplies, with the intention of
joining them again at Streaky Bay.
Having spent some time in taking bearings from the summit of Baxter's
range, I examined all the channels and gorges coming from it, and in most
of these I found water. I am of opinion however that in a very dry
season, the water which I now found will be quite dried up, and
especially in the largest of the watercourses, or the one upon which we
were encamped. [Note 9: In October 1842, this was quite dry, but water was
still found in holes in the rocks in the southernmost gorge, above the
waterfall, at the base of which water was also procured by digging in
the gravel.]
A little further south, there is a rocky ravine winding through a gorge
and terminating in a waterfall, with a large pool of beautiful water at
the base, and with many large and deep holes of water in the rocks above.
In this ravine I imagine water might be procured at any period of the
year, and I am confirmed in this opinion by the circumstance of three
well beaten native roads, coming from different points of the compass,
and all converging at this place. This is an important position for
parties crossing to the westward, or going overland to Port Lincoln.
Baxter's range is the nearest point at which permanent water can be
procured on the west side of the head of Spencer's Gulf, as the Depot
creek near Mount Arden is on the eastern. Having completed my examination
of the range, and taken all my observations, I spent the remainder of the
day in constructing a chart of my former route from Streaky Bay in 1839,
and in writing out instructions for the overseer during my absence, as a
guide for him in crossing to the westward.
September 17.--Placing under the charge of the overseer, two drays, seven
of our best horses, all the sheep, one native boy, and two men, I saw him
fairly started this morning, and wished him a speedy and prosperous
journey. I had left with me one dray, five horses, one man, one native
boy, and Mr. Scott; with fourteen days provision and forty gallons of
water. Steering S. 25 degrees W. for sixteen miles, we halted for the
night upon a patch of tolerable grass but without any water; I was
consequently obliged to give a bucket of water to each of the horses out
of the small stock which we had brought with us. The country we travelled
through was low, level, and for the most part covered with salsolae, or
brush, the latter in some places being very dense, and causing great
fatigue to the horses in dragging the dray through it.
September 18.--Upon taking a view of the country, this morning, previous
to starting, it appeared so low and level, and held out so little
prospect of our finding water, that I was induced to deviate from the
course I had laid down, and steering S. 20 degrees E. made for some hills
before us. After travelling four miles upon this course, I observed a
native fire upon the hills at a bearing of S. 40 degrees E. and
immediately turned towards it, fully hoping that it was at a native camp
and in the immediate vicinity of water.
At eight miles we were close under the hills, but found the dray could
not cross the front ridges; I therefore left Mr. Scott to keep a course
parallel with the range, whilst I and the native boy rode across to where
we had seen the fire. Upon arriving at the spot I was greatly
disappointed to find, instead of a native camp, only a few burning
bushes, which had either been lit as a signal by the natives, after
noticing us in the plains, or was one of those casual fires so frequently
left by them on their line of march. I found the hills scrubby, barren,
and rocky, with much prickly grass growing upon their slopes. There were
no watercourses upon the west side of the range at all, nor could I by
tracing up some short rocky valleys coming from steep gorges in the face
of the hill find any water. The rock was principally of ironstone
formation. Upon ascending to the summit of the hill, I had an extensive
but unsatisfactory view, a vast level field of scrub stretching every
where around me, interspersed here and there with the beds of small dried
up lakes, but with no signs of water any where. At S. W. by S. I saw the
smoke of a native fire rising in the plains. Hurrying down from the
range, I followed the dray, and as soon as I overtook it, halted for the
night in the midst of a thick scrub of large tea-trees and minor shrubs.
There was a little grass scattered among the trees, on which, by giving
our horses two buckets of water each, they were able to feed tolerably
well. During the day we had travelled over a very heavy sandy country and
through dense brush, and our horses were much jaded. Occasionally we had
passed small dried up salt lakes and the beds of salt water channels; but
even these did not appear to have had any water in them for a long time.
Upon halting the party, I sent Mr. Scott to explore the range further
south than I had been, whilst I myself went to search among the salt
lakes to the southwest. We, however, both returned equally unsuccessful,
and I now found that I should be compelled to send the dray back for a
supply of water from Baxter's range. The country was so scrubby and
difficult to get a dray through that our progress was necessarily slow;
and in the level waste before us I had no hope of finding water for some
distance further. I thought, therefore, that if the dray could bring a
supply to last us for two days after leaving our present encampment, we
should then be enabled to make a fresh push through a considerable extent
of bad country, and might have a better chance of finding water as we
advanced to the south-west.
September 19.--This morning I unloaded the dray of every thing except the
water casks, and pitching my tent among the scrub took up my quarters
alone, whilst I sent back the man, the native boy, the dray, and all the
horses with Mr. Scott to Baxter's range. As they made an early start, I
gave them instructions to push on as rapidly as possible, so as to get
the range that night, to rest the horses next day and fill the casks with
water, and on the third day, if possible, to return the whole distance
and rejoin me.
Having seen them fairly away, I occupied myself in writing and charting
during the day, and at night amused myself in taking stellar observations
for latitude. I had already taken the altitude of Vega, and deduced the
latitude to be 32 degrees 3 minutes 23 seconds S.; leaving my artificial
horizon on the ground outside whilst I remained in the tent waiting until
Altair came to the meridian, I then took my sextant and went out to
observe this star also; but upon putting down my hand to take hold of the
horizon glass in order to wipe the dew off, my fingers went into the
quick-silver--the horizon glass was gone, and also the piece of canvass I
had put on the ground to lie down upon whilst observing so low an
altitude as that of Vega. Searching a little more I missed a spade, a
parcel of horse shoes, an axe, a tin dish, some ropes, a grubbing hoe,
and several smaller things which had been left outside the tent, as not
being likely to take any injury from the damp.
It was evident I was surrounded by natives, who had stolen all these
things during the short time I had been in my tent, certainly not
exceeding half an hour. The night was very windy and I had heard nothing,
besides I was encamped in the midst of a very dense brush of large
wide-spreading tea-trees and other bushes, any of which would afford a
screen for a considerable number of natives. In daylight it was
impossible to see many yards in distance, and nothing could be discerned
at night.
The natives must have watched the dray go away in the morning, and waited
until dark for their opportunity to rob me; and most daringly and
effectually had they done it. At the time that I lay on the ground,
taking the star's altitude, they must have been close to me, and after I
went into the tent, they doubtless saw me sitting there by the light of
the candle, since the door was not quite closed, and they had come quite
in front to obtain some of the things they had stolen. The only wonder
with me was that they had not speared me, as they could scarcely have
been intimidated by my individual presence.
As soon as I missed my horizon glass, and entertained the suspicion of
natives being about, I hurried into the tent and lighting a large blue
light, run with it rapidly through the bushes around me. The effect of
this was very beautiful amidst the darkness and gloom of the woods, and
for a great distance in every direction objects could be seen as well as
by day; the natives, however, were gone, and I could only console myself
by firing a couple of balls after them through the underwood to warn them
of the danger of intruding upon me again; I then put every thing which
had been left outside, into the tent, and kept watch for an hour or two,
but my visitors came no more. The shots, or the blue light, had
effectually frightened them. They had, however, in their turn, produced
as great an effect upon me, and had at least deprived me of one night's
rest.
September 20.--Rising very early I set to work, with an axe, to clear
away the bushes from around my tent. I now discovered that the natives
had been concealed behind a large tea-tree not twenty yards from the
tent; there were numerous foot-marks there, and the remains of
fire-sticks which they had brought with them, for a native rarely moves
at night without fire.
By working hard I cleared a large circle with a radius of from thirty to
forty yards, and then piling up all the bushes outside and around the
tent, which was in the centre, I was completely fortified, and my sable
friends could no longer creep upon me to steal without my hearing them. I
spent great part of the day in charting, and took a few angles from the
tent, but did not dare to venture far away. At night, when it was dark, I
mounted guard with my gun for three hours, walking round outside the
tent, and firing off my gun before I lay down, which I did with my
clothes on, ready to get up at a moment's notice. Nothing, however,
disturbed me.
September 21.--I had been occupied during the greater part of the day in
charting, and in the evening was just shouldering my gun to mount guard
again, when I was delighted to see Mr. Scott returning with the dray, and
the party all safe. They had executed the duty entrusted to them well,
and had lost no time in rejoining me; the horses were, however, somewhat
fatigued, having come all the way from the range in one day. Being now
reinforced, I had no longer occasion to mount guard, and for the first
time since the natives had stolen upon me, enjoyed a sound sleep.
September 22.--Moving on the party for ten miles at a course of S. 35
degrees W., we passed through a dreadful country, composed of dense scrub
and heavy sandy ridges, with some salt water channels and beds of small
dry lakes at intervals. In many cases the margins bounding these were
composed of a kind of decomposed lime, very light and loose, which
yielded to the slightest pressure; in this our horses and drays sank
deep, throwing out as they went, clouds of fine white dust on every side
around them. This, added to the very fatiguing and harassing work of
dragging the dray through the thick scrub and over the heavy sand ridges,
almost knocked them up, and we had the sad prospect before us of
encamping at night without a blade of grass for them to eat. Just at this
juncture the native boy who was with me, said he saw rocks in one of the
distant sand hills, but upon examining the place with a telescope I could
not make out distinctly whether they were rocks or only sand. The boy
however persisted that there were rocks, and to settle the point I halted
the dray in camp, whilst I proceeded with him to the spot to look.
At seven miles W. 10 degrees S. of the drays we reached the ridge, and to
my great delight I found the boy was right; he had seen the bare sheets
of granite peeping out near the summit of a sandy elevation, and in these
we found many holes with water in them. At the base of the hill too, was
an opening with good grass around, and a fine spring of pure water.
Hastening back to the dray, I conducted the party to the hills, which I
named Refuge Rocks, for such they were to us in our difficulties, and
such they may be to many future travellers who may have to cross this
dreary desert.
From the nature of the road and the exhausted state of our horses, it was
very late when we encamped, but as the position was so favourable a one
to recruit at, I determined to take advantage of it, and remain a couple
of days for that purpose.
September 23.--Leaving my party to rest, after the fatigue they had
endured in forcing a way through the scrub, I set off after breakfast to
reconnoitre our position at Refuge Rocks, and to take a series of angles.
The granite elevation, under which we were encamped, I found to be one of
three small hills, forming a triangle, about a mile apart from each
other, and having sheets of granite lying exposed upon their summits,
containing deep holes which receive and retain water after rains. The
hill we were encamped under, was the highest of the three, and the only
one under which there was a spring. [Note 10: This was dried up in
October, 1842.] There was also better grass here than around either of the
other two; it appeared, too, to be the favourite halting place of the
natives, many of whose encampments still remained, and some of which
appeared to have been in use not very long ago. The bearings from the hill
we were under, of the other two elevations, which, with it, constitute
the Refuge Rocks, were N. 15 degrees W. and W. 35 degrees N. Baxter's
range was still visible in the distance, appearing low and wedge-shaped,
with the high end towards the east, at a bearing of N. 24 degrees E.
In the western extreme it bore N. 22 degrees E. Many other hills and
peaks were apparent in various directions, to all of which I took
angles, and then returned to the tent to observe the sun's meridian
altitude for latitude. By this observation, I made the latitude
33 degrees 11 minutes 12 seconds S.; but an altitude of Altair
at night only gave 33 degrees 10 minutes 6 seconds S.; probably
the mean of the two, or 33 degrees 10 minutes 39 seconds S., will be very
nearly the true position of the spring. From the summit of the hill I had
been upon, many native fires were visible in the scrub, in almost every
direction around. At one time I counted eleven different fires from the
smokes that were ascending, and some of which were very near us. Judging
from these facts, the natives appeared to be numerous in this part of the
country, and it would be necessary to be very cautious and vigilant after
the instance I had recently met with of their cunning and daring.
September 24.--I still kept my party in camp to refresh the horses, and
occupied myself during the morning in preparing a sketch of my route to
the north, to send to the Governor from Port Lincoln. In the afternoon, I
searched for a line of road for our drays to pass, on the following day,
through the scrubby and sandy country, which still appeared to continue
in every direction.
September 25.--Leaving Refuge Rocks, at a course of S. 37 degrees W., we
passed over a wretched country, consisting principally of heavy sandy
ridges, very densely covered with scrub, and giving our horses a severe
and fagging day's work to get the dray along for only twelve miles. I
then halted, as we were fortunate enough to find an opening in the scrub,
with good grass. Searching about our encampment, I found in a small
valley at one end of the little plain, a round hole, dug by the natives,
to catch the drainage from the slope above it. There were two or three
quarts of water in this hole when we discovered it; but by enlarging it,
we managed to fill a bucket once every hour from the water which drained
into it. This enabled us to save, to some extent, the water we had in our
casks, at the same time that all the horses had as much as they could
drink. I took angles from the camp to all the hills in sight, and at
night made the latitude of the tent 33 degrees 18 minutes 34 seconds S.
by an altitude of a Cygnus.
September 26.--After travelling for thirteen miles at S. 40 degrees W., I
took a set of angles from a low scrubby hill, being the last opportunity
I should have of setting many of the heights, of which I had obtained
bearings from former camps. I then changed our course to S. 27 degrees W.
for five miles, and halted for the night where there was good grass. We
could find no water during the day; I had, consequently, to give the
horses some out of the casks. The country we traversed had altered
greatly in character, and though still heavy and sandy, it was a white
coarse gritty sand, instead of a fine red; and instead of the dense
cucalyptus scrub, we had now low heathy shrubs which did not present much
impediment to the progress of the dray, and many of which bore very
beautiful flowers. Granite was frequently met with during the day, but no
water could be found. Our latitude by an altitude of a Aquilae was 33
degrees 30 minutes S.
September 27.--Continuing our last night's course for about seven miles,
we passed through the densest scrub I had yet met with; fortunately, it
was not growing upon a sandy soil, and we got tolerably well through it,
but the horses suffered severely. Upon emerging from the brush, I noticed
a little green looking valley, about a mile off our track, and sent Mr.
Scott to see if there was water there. Upon his return, he reported that
there was, and I at once moved down to it, to rest the horses after the
toil of breaking through the scrub. The day was not far advanced when we
halted, and I was enabled to obtain the sun's altitude at noon, making
the latitude of the camp 33 degrees 34 minutes 25 seconds S. There was
good grass for the horses, and abundance of water left by the rains in
the hollows of a small watercourse, running between two scrubby ridges.
September 28.--Making an early start, we crossed at four and a half
miles, a low scrubby range, and there found, upon the left of our track,
some very pretty grassy hills, and a valley lightly wooded with
casuarinae. Whilst I went on with the party, I detached Mr. Scott to see
if there was water at this little patch of good country, but he did not
find any. I am still of opinion, however, that if more time for
examination had been allowed, springs would have been discovered not far
away; as every thing looked so green and luxuriant, and formed so strong
a contrast to the country around.
Pushing on steadify, we crossed over many undulations, coated on the
surface either with sand or breccia, and frequently having a good deal of
the eucalyptus scrub upon them, at eleven miles we passed a long grassy
plain in the scrub, and once or twice crossed small openings with a
little grass. For one of these we directed our course, late in the
evening, to encamp; upon reaching it, however, we were greatly
disappointed to find it covered only by prickly grass. I was therefore
obliged, after watering the horses from the casks, to send them a mile
and half back to some grass we had seen, and where they fared tolerably
well. Our day's journey had been long and fatiguing, through a barren,
heavy country. One mile before encamping, we crossed the bed of a salt
water channel, trending to the westward, which was probably connected
with the Lagoon Harbour of Flinders, as it appeared to receive the flood
tide. Our latitude was 33 degrees 50 minutes S. by observation of a
Aquilae.
September 29.--Whilst the man was out looking for the horses, which had
strayed a little during the night, I took a set of angles to several
heights, visible from the camp; upon the man's return, he reported that
he had found some fresh water, but upon riding to the place, I. found it
was only a very small hole in a sheet of limestone rock, near the salt
watercourse, which did not contain above a pint or two. The natives,
however, appeared to come to this occasionally for their supply; similar
holes enabling them frequently to remain out in the low countries long
after the rain has fallen. After seeing the party move on, with the
native boy to act as guide through the scrub, I rode in advance to search
for water at the hill marked by Flinders as Bluff Mount, and named by
Colonel Gawler, Mount Hill. This isolated elevation rises abruptly from
the field of scrub, in the midst of which it is situated and is of
granite formation; nearly at its summit is an open grassy plain, which
was visible long before we reached it, and which leads directly over the
lowest or centre part of the range; water was found in the holes of rock
in the granite, and the grass around was very tolerable. Having
ascertained these particulars, I hurried back to the drays to conduct
them to a place of encampment. The road was very long and over a heavy
sandy country, for the most part densely covered with scrub, and it was
late, therefore, when we reached the hill. The horses, however, had good
feed and fair allowance of water, but of the latter they drank every drop
we could find. During our route to-day, I noticed some little distance to
the north-west of our track, a high scrubby range, having clear
grassy-looking openings at intervals. In this direction, it is probable
that a better line of road might be found than the one we had chosen.
September 30.--After breakfast, I ascended to the summit of Mount Hill,
and took a set of angles; whilst the dray wound up the gap between it and
another low summit, with which it is connected. Upon descending the hill
on the opposite side, I was rejoiced to find two very large pools of
water in some granite rocks, one of them appearing to be of a permanent
character. Here I halted for an hour and a half, to give the horses a
little more water, and fill our casks again before we faced the scrubby
waste that was still seen ahead of us. I had been last night within fifty
yards of the pools that we now found, but had not discovered them, as the
evening was closing in at the time, and I was in great haste to return to
my party before dark. Leaving Mount Hill at the course of S. 27 degrees
W. we passed through a very dense scrub, the strongest, I think, we had
yet experienced; the drays were tearing down the brush with loud crashes,
at every step which the horses took, and I could only compare their
progress to the effect produced by the efforts of a clearing party, the
brush rapidly disappearing before the wheels, and leaving almost as open
a road as if it had been cut away by axes; the unfortunate animals,
however, had to bear the onus of all, and most severely were they
harassed before our short stage was over. At twelve miles we came to a
large rocky watercourse of brackish water, trending to the
east-north-east, through a narrow valley bounded by dense scrub. In this
we found pools of fresh water, and as there was good grass, I called a
halt about three in the afternoon. We were now able, for the first time
for several hundred miles, to enjoy the luxury of a swim, which we all
fully appreciated. In the afternoon Mr. Scott shot six ducks in the
pools, which furnished us with a most welcome addition to our very scanty
fare. For two days previous to this, we had been subsisting solely upon a
very limited allowance of dry bread, having only taken fourteen days
provisions with us from Baxter's range, which was nearly all expended,
whilst we were yet at least two days journey from Port Lincoln. At night
I observed the latitude of our camp, by alpha Aquilae 34 degrees
12 minutes 52 seconds S. by beta Leonis 34 degrees 12 minutes 35 seconds
S. and assumed the mean of the two, or 34 degrees 12 minutes 43 seconds as
the correct one.
October 1.--Making an early start we passed at three miles the head of
the watercourse we had been encamped upon, and then ascended some scrubby
ranges, for about five miles further, when we entered into a narrow tract
of good grassy country, which at five miles brought us to Mr. Driver's
station; a Mr. Dutton was living at this place as Mr. Driver's manager,
and by him we were very hospitably received, and furnished with such
supplies as we required.
[Note 11: In 1842, Mr. Dutton attempted to take some cattle overland, from
this station to the head of Spencer's Gulf; both he and his whole party
perished in the desert, (as supposed) from the want of water. In October
of that year, I was sent by Government to search for their remains, but
as it was the dry season, I could not follow up their tracks through the
arid country they had advanced into. The cattle returned.]
It was a cattle station, and abounded with milk and butter, luxuries
which we all fully enjoyed after our long ramble in the wilds. Having
halted my party for the day, Mr. Scott and myself dined at Mr. Dutton's,
and learnt the most recent news from Adelaide and Port Lincoln. We had
much to hear and much to inquire about, for even in the few months of our
absence, it was to be presumed, that many changes would have taken place
in the fluctuating affairs of a new colony. Nor were our conjectures
wrong.