TURKEYS.

That these fowls, which at present are everywhere common, were brought

to us from a different part of the world, is, I believe, generally

admitted; but respecting their original country, and the time when

they were first introduced into Europe, there is much difference of

opinion among those who in later times have made researches on that

subject[1502]. I shall therefore compare what has been advanced on both

sides with what I have remarked myself, and submit my decision to the

judgement of the reader.

The question, whether turkeys or turkey-fowls were known to the Greeks

and the Romans, will depend upon defining what those fowls were to

which they gave the name of _meleagrides_ and _gallinæ Africanæ_;

for in the whole ornithology of the ancients, there are no other

kind that can occasion doubt. It has however been justly remarked by

Perrault and others, that every thing which we find related by the

ancients of the _meleagrides_ can be applied only to the pintado or

Guinea fowl (_Numida meleagris_, Linn.), and not to the turkey; and

that the _gallinæ Africanæ_ were only a variety of the former, or a

species that approached nearly to them. Their spots, disposed in such

a manner as if formed by drops, on account of which, in modern times,

they have been called _pintados_ and _pientades_, and the marks on the

feathers of the wings, accord perfectly with the description given of

them by Clytus, the scholar of Aristotle[1503]; though in northern

countries, some Guinea fowls are found, the colour of which is more

mixed with white. But this is a variation not uncommon among birds

in general when removed from their native country, as is proved by

the white peacocks, which were first observed in Norway. The coloured

hood of thick skin which covers the head has also been accurately

described by Clytus, as well as the coloured fleshy excrescence on

the bill (_palearia carunculacea_). In size the _meleagrides_ were

like our largest common fowls, which is true also of the pintado; and

we must acknowledge with Clytus, that its naked head is too small in

proportion to the body. The figure of the pintado, like that of the

partridge, and its drooping tail, correspond equally well with the

epithet _gibberæ_, especially as the position of its feathers occasions

its back to appear elevated or bent upwards. The feet are like those

of the domestic fowl, but they are destitute of the spurs with which

those of the latter are furnished; and the pintado lays spotted eggs,

as described by Aristotle; but these, by the manner in which the fowls

are reared in Europe, are liable to variations. It deserves to be

remarked above all, that both sexes of the _meleagrides_ are so like,

that they can scarcely be distinguished; and this circumstance alone is

sufficient to confute those who pretend that the _meleagrides_ were our

turkeys. Had that been the case, it is impossible that Clytus in his

description, which seems to have been drawn up with great care, should

have omitted the proud and ridiculous gestures of the turkey-cock when

he struts about with his tail spread out like a fan, or thrown into

a circular form, and his wings trailing on the ground, or the long

excrescence that hangs down from his bill, and the tuft of black hair

on his breast. The unpleasant cry, and the unsocial disposition of the

_meleagrides_, are observed in the Guinea fowls, which, as the ancients

justly remarked, frequent rivers and marshes, where turkeys on the

other hand never thrive.

The ancients assure us that the native country of the _meleagrides_

was Africa[1504], where the Guinea fowls are still found in a wild

state, but where our turkeys were never seen wild. When writers however

mention places not in Africa, to which the former were brought, we are

not to suppose that they were carried thither directly from Africa.

The difference which Columella and Pliny[1505] make between the

_meleagrides_ and _gallinæ Africanæ_ is so trifling, as to imply only a

variety of the species; and the opinion of Pallas, who has occasionally

collected a number of important observations which may serve to explain

the natural history of the ancients, is highly probable, that we are

to understand under it the _Numida mitrata_, which he has described.

The red crest which the last-mentioned bird always has, and which

almost alone distinguishes it from the common Guinea fowl, seems

fully to prove this opinion[1506]. I shall here take occasion to

remark, that Buffon erroneously affirms that the Guinea fowls, which

were transmitted from the Greeks and the Romans, became extinct in

Europe in the middle ages; for we find mention made of them in English

writers, under the name of _Aves Africanæ_, _Afræ_, so early as about

the year 1277[1507].

That the ancients were not acquainted with our turkeys is still further

confirmed by the testimony of various historians and travellers, who

assure us in the first place, that these birds are still wild in

America; secondly, that they were brought to us from that country;

and thirdly, that before the discovery of the New World they were not

known in Europe. Besides, we are enabled, from the information which

they give us, to see how and when these animals were conveyed to those

countries where they at present are reared as domestic fowls; and these

proofs appear to me so strong, that I conclude Barrington asserted the

contrary, that he might obtain assent not so much by the force of truth

as by advancing absurdities. All animals multiply more easily, and

become larger, stronger, and more fruitful in those places which nature

has assigned to them for a residence, that is, where they originally

lived wild; and this observation seems to hold good in regard to the

turkeys in America. It is indeed probable that the number of wild

animals will always decrease in proportion as countries are peopled,

and as woods are cut down and deserts cultivated; it is probable also,

that at last no wild animals will be left, as has been the case with

sheep, oxen and horses, which have all long ago been brought into a

state of slavery by man. The testimony therefore of those who first

visited America, and who found there wild turkeys, deserves the greater

attention.

The first author in whom I find mention of them is Oviedo, who wrote

about the year 1525[1508]. He has described them minutely with that

curiosity and attention which new objects generally excite; and as he

was acquainted with no name for these animals, till then unknown to

the Europeans, he gave them that which he thought best suited to their

figure and shape. He calls them a kind of peacocks, and he relates

that even then, on account of their utility, and the excellent taste

of their flesh, they were not only reared and domesticated by the

Europeans in New Spain, where they were first found, but that they

were carried also to New Castille, and to the West India islands.

The other fowls likewise which he describes we have without doubt

procured from America, such for example as the _Crax alector_[1509].

Lopez de Gomara, whose book was printed in 1553, makes use of the name

_gallopavo_; and says that the animal resembles in shape the peacock

and the domestic cock; and that of all the fowls in New Spain its flesh

is the most delicious[1510]. In the year 1584 wild turkeys were found

in Virginia[1511]. René de Laudonniere found them on his landing in

North America in 1564[1512]. Fernandez also reckons them among the

birds of Mexico; and takes notice of the difference between those that

were wild and those which had been tamed[1513]. Pedro de Ciesa saw them

on the isthmus of Darien[1514], and Dampier in Yucatan[1515]. Besides

the testimony of many other later travellers which have been already

quoted by Buffon, and which I shall not here repeat, the accounts of

Kalm and Smyth in particular deserve to be noticed. The former, who

visited Pennsylvania in 1784, says, “The wild turkeys run about here

in the woods. Their wildness excepted, they are in nothing different

from ours, but in being generally a little larger, and in having redder

flesh, which is, however, superior in taste. When any one finds their

eggs in the woods, and places them under a tame hen to be hatched,

the young, for the most part, become tame also; but when they grow

up they make their escape. On this account people cut their wings

before they are a year old. These wild turkeys, when tamed, are much

more mischievous than those tamed by nature[1516].” Smyth assures us

that wild turkeys are so abundant in the uncultivated country behind

Virginia, and the southern provinces, that they may be found in flocks

of more than five thousand[1517].

These testimonies, in my opinion, are sufficiently strong and numerous

to convince any naturalist that America is the native country of these

fowls; but their weight will be still increased if we add the accounts

given us when and how they were gradually dispersed throughout other

countries. Had they been brought from Asia or Africa some centuries

ago, they must have been long common in Italy, and would have been

carried thence over all Europe. We, however, do not find that they

were known in that country before the discovery of America. It is

certain that there were none of them there at the time when Peter de

Crescentio wrote, that is to say, in the thirteenth century[1518]; else

he would not have omitted to mention them where he describes the method

of rearing all domestic fowls, and even peacocks and partridges. The

earliest account of them in Italy is contained in an ordinance issued

by the magistrates of Venice, in 1557, for repressing luxury, and in

which those tables at which they were allowed are particularised.

About the year 1570 Bartolomeo Scappi, cook to pope Pius V., gave in

his book on cookery several receipts for dressing these expensive and

much-esteemed fowls[1519]. That they were scarce at this period appears

from its being remarked that the first turkeys brought to Bologna were

some that had been given as a present to the family of Buonocompagni,

from which Gregory XII., who at that time filled the papal chair, was

descended.

That these fowls were not known in England in the beginning of the

sixteenth century, is very probable; as they are not mentioned in the

particular description of a grand entertainment given by archbishop

Nevil[1520]; nor in the regulations made by Henry VIII. respecting

his household, in which all fowls used in the royal kitchen are

named[1521]. They were, however, introduced into that country about the

above period; some say in the year 1524; others, in 1530; and some, in

1532[1522]. We know, at any rate, that young turkeys were served up

at a great banquet in 1555[1523]; and about 1585 they were commonly

reckoned among the number of delicate dishes[1524].

According to the account of some writers, turkeys must have been known

much earlier in France; but on strict examination no proofs of this

can be found. The earliest period assigned for their introduction into

that country is given by Beguillet[1525], who confidently asserts

that they were brought to Dijon under the reign of Philip the Bold,

about the year 1385. Had this French author quoted his authority, we

might have discovered what gave rise to his mistake; but as he has

not, one cannot help suspecting that the whole account is a fiction

of his own. De la Mare also is in an error when he relates that the

first turkeys in France were those which Jaques Cœur, the well-known

treasurer to Charles VII., brought with him from the Levant, and kept

on his estate in Gatinois, after he had received the king’s permission

to return to the kingdom. This Cœur, however, who was banished in

1450, never returned, but died in the island of Chio in the year

1456[1526]. Equally false is the account given by Bouche in his History

of Provence, that René, or Renatus, king of Naples and duke of Anjou,

first brought turkeys into the kingdom, and reared them in abundance at

Rosset[1527]. This author gives as his authority the oral tradition of

the neighbourhood, which certainly cannot be put in competition with

testimony of a more authentic nature. Another Bouche[1528], who a few

years ago wrote also a History of Provence, and who has collected many

things that do honour to Renatus, makes no mention of this service,

though he could not be ignorant of what had been before related by

his namesake. Had these fowls been known so early as the time of that

monarch, who died in 1480, it is impossible that they could have been

so scarce in France as they really were above a hundred years after.

The assertion, often repeated, but never indeed proved, that they were

first brought to France by Philip de Chabot, admiral under Francis

I., is much more probable. Chabot died in 1543; and what Scaliger

says, that in 1540 some turkeys were still remaining in France, may be

considered as alluding to the above circumstance. This much however

is certain, that Gyllius, who died in 1555, gave soon after the first

scientific description of them, which has been inserted both by Gesner

and Aldrovandus in their works on ornithology. The same year the first

figure of them was published by Bellon. About the same time they were

described also by La Bruyere-Champier, who expressly remarks that they

had a few years before been brought to France from the Indian islands

discovered by the Portuguese and the Spaniards[1529]. How then could

Barrington assert that this Frenchman meant the East and not the West

Indies? They must, however, have been a long time scarce in France;

for, in the year 1566, when Charles IX. passed through Amiens, the

magistrates of that place did not disdain to send him, among other

presents, twelve turkeys[1530]. This information seems to agree with

the account often quoted, that the first turkeys were served up, as

a great rarity, at the wedding dinner of that monarch in the year

1570[1531]; but it seems the breed of these fowls was not very common

under Charles IX.; for they are not named in the ordinances of 1563 and

1567, in which all other fowls are mentioned. In the year 1603, Henry

IV. caused higglers to be punished who carried away turkeys from the

country villages without paying for them, under a pretence that they

were for the use of the queen[1532]. I shall here also remark, that I

can nowhere find that the Jesuits are entitled to the merit of having

introduced these fowls into France[1533].

As these American fowls must have been carried to Germany through other

lands, we cannot expect to find them in that country at an earlier

period. Gesner, who published his Ornithology in 1555, seems not even

to have seen them. We are, however, assured by several authors, such as

B. Heresbach[1534], Colerus[1535] and others, that turkeys were brought

to Germany so early as 1530; and in the same year carried to Bohemia

and Silesia[1536]. Respecting the northern countries, I know only, on

the authority of Pontoppidan, that they had been in Denmark two hundred

years before his time.

As these fowls are found at present both in Asia and Africa, it may

be worth while to inquire at what period they were carried thither,

especially as these quarters of the world have been by some considered

as their native countries. In China there are no other turkeys than

those which have been introduced from other parts, as we are expressly

assured by Du Halde, though he erroneously adds that they were quite

common in the East Indies. They were carried to Persia by the Armenians

and other trading people, and to Batavia by the Dutch[1537]. In the

time of Chardin they were so scarce in Persia that they were kept in

the Emperor’s menagerie[1538]. In the kingdom of Congo, on the Gold

Coast, and at Senegal, there are none but those belonging to the

European factories. According to Father de Bourzes there are none of

them in the kingdom of Madura; and we are told by Dampier that this is

the case in the island of Mindanao. Prosper Alpinus also gives the same

account in regard to Nubia and Egypt; and Gemelli Carreri says there is

none of them in the Philippines; though I agree with Buffon in laying

very little stress upon the Travels known under that name, which we

have reason to suppose not genuine.

It is worthy of remark, that Cavendish found a great number of

turkeys in the island of St. Helena so early as the year 1588; and

Barrington misapplies this circumstance to prove that these fowls

did not come from America. It is, however, very doubtful whether

Cavendish really meant our turkeys, as he says, “Guiney cocks, which

we call turkeys[1539];” for the first name belongs to what are at

present called pintados; and it is therefore uncertain which kind

ought here to be understood. But even allowing that they were turkeys,

is it improbable that they should be on an island which had often

been visited by the Portuguese? The account of De la Croix is of as

little weight; for he says that in the woods of Madagascar there are

many _coqs d’Inde_[1540]. De la Croix published his book in 1688, at

which time there were in South America wild horses and wild cattle.

Does this, therefore, invalidate the certainty of these animals being

carried thither from Europe?

I intended to enter into a critical examination of those grounds upon

which Barrington endeavours to prove that turkeys were originally

brought from Africa; but on reading over his essay once more, I find

the greater part of his arguments are sufficiently refuted by what I

have proved from the most authentic testimony; and nothing now remains

but to add a few observations. Barrington considers it improbable that

these fowls should be so soon spread all over Europe, as Cortez first

visited Mexico in 1519, subdued the capital in 1521, and returned to

Spain in 1527. To me, however, it does not appear incredible; for I

could prove by several instances, that the curiosity excited by the

most remarkable American productions soon became general. Those, for

example, who take the trouble to inquire into the history of maize or

Turkish corn will make the same remark; though it is a truth fully

established that we procure that grain from America. How soon did

tobacco become common! In the year 1599 the seeds were brought to

Portugal; and in the beginning of the seventeenth century it began to

be cultivated in the East Indies. When Barrington asserts that these

fowls were carried to America by the Europeans, in the same manner as

horses and cattle, this argument may be turned against himself; for he

must doubtless find it equally improbable that they should so soon

become common, numerous and wild, in the New World, as they must have

been according to the authorities above quoted.

As many fat turkeys were purchased yearly in Languedoc and sent to

Spain in the time of cardinal Perron[1541], it is thence concluded

that these fowls were not brought to France through the latter. Perron

died in 1620. At that period turkeys were very common; and whoever is

acquainted with the industry of the Spaniards will not find it strange

that the French should begin earlier to make the rearing of these

animals an employment. How falsely should we reason, were we to say

that it is impossible the English and French should procure the best

wool from Spain, because the Spaniards purchase the best cloth from the

French and the English!

One proof by which Barrington endeavours to show that turkeys were

esteemed so early as the fifteenth century is very singular. He quotes

from Leland’s Itinerary that _capons of Grease_ were served up at

an entertainment, under Edward IV., in 1467. The passage alluded to

I cannot find; but an author must be very self-sufficient and bold

indeed, to convert _capons of Grease_ into _capons of Greece_, and to

pretend that these were turkeys[1542].

What, however, most excites my surprise is, that the name of these

fowls even should be assumed by this writer as a ground for his

assertion. Had they, says he, been brought from America, they would

have been called American or West Indian fowls; as if new objects had

names given to them always with reflection. Names are often bestowed

upon objects before it is known what they are or whence they are

procured. Ray, Minshew[1543], and others have been induced by the

name turkey-fowls to consider Turkey as their original country; but

whoever is versed in researches of this kind must know that new foreign

articles are often called Turkish, Italian, or Spanish. Is Turkey the

original country of maize? or is Italy the original country of these

birds, because they have been sometimes called Italian fowls? Even

allowing that turkeys had acquired their German name (_kalekuter_)

from Calicut, this, at any rate, would prove nothing further than that

it was once falsely believed that these animals were brought from

Calicut to Europe: but I suspect that the appellation _kalekuter_,

as well as the names _truthenne_, _putjen_, and _puten_, were formed

from their cry. Chardin offers a conjecture which is not altogether

to be neglected. That traveller thinks that these fowls were at first

considered as a species of the domestic fowl, and that they were called

Indian, because the largest domestic fowls are produced in that country.

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