CHAPTER I.

Produced by Karl Hagen, Juliet Sutherland, Charles Franks,

and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team, from images

generously made available by the Canadian Institute for

Historical Microreproductions.

Transcriber's Notes:

The footnotes in the main portion of the original text, which are lengthy

and numerous, have been converted to endnotes that appear at the end of

each chapter. Their numeration is the same as in the original.

The original spelling remains unaltered, with the following exceptions:

1. This text was originally printed with tall-s. They have been replaced

here with ordinary 's.'

2. Some quotations from the 17th-century French reproduce manuscript

abbreviation marks (macrons over vowels). These represent 'n' or 'm' and

have been expanded.

3. In the transcription of some words of the Algonquian languages, the

original text of this edition uses a character that resembles an

infinity sign. This is taken from the old system that the Jesuits used

to record these languages, and represents a long, nasalized, unrounded

'o.' It is here represented with an '8.'

CHAMPLAIN'S VOYAGES.

[Illustration: Champlain (Samuel De) d'après un portrait gravé par

Moncornet]

VOYAGES OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN.

TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH

By CHARLES POMEROY OTIS, Ph.D.

WITH HISTORICAL ILLUSTRATIONS, and a MEMOIR

By the REV. EDMUND F. SLAFTER, A.M.

VOL. I. 1567-1635

FIVE ILLUSTRATIONS.

Editor: The REV EDMUND F SLAFTER, A.M.

PREFACE

The labors and achievements of the navigators and explorers, who visited

our coasts between the last years of the fifteenth and the early years of

the seventeenth centuries, were naturally enough not fully appreciated by

their contemporaries, nor were their relations to the future growth of

European interests and races on this continent comprehended in the age in

which they lived. Numberless events in which they were actors, and personal

characteristics which might have illustrated and enriched their history,

were therefore never placed upon record. In intimate connection with the

career of Cabot, Cartier, Roberval, Ribaut, Laudonnière, Gosnold, Pring,

and Smith, there were vast domains of personal incident and interesting

fact over which the waves of oblivion have passed forever. Nor has

Champlain been more fortunate than the rest. In studying his life and

character, we are constantly finding ourselves longing to know much where

we are permitted to know but little. His early years, the processes of his

education, his home virtues, his filial affection and duty, his social and

domestic habits and mode of life, we know imperfectly; gathering only a few

rays of light here and there in numerous directions, as we follow him along

his lengthened career. The reader will therefore fail to find very much

that he might well desire to know, and that I should have been but too

happy to embody in this work. In the positive absence of knowledge, this

want could only be supplied from the field of pure imagination. To draw

from this source would have been alien both to my judgment and to my taste.

But the essential and important events of Champlain's public career are

happily embalmed in imperishable records. To gather these up and weave them

into an impartial and truthful narrative has been the simple purpose of my

present attempt. If I have succeeded in marshalling the authentic deeds and

purposes of his life into a complete whole, giving to each undertaking and

event its true value and importance, so that the historian may more easily

comprehend the fulness of that life which Champlain consecrated to the

progress of geographical knowledge, to the aggrandizement of France, and to

the dissemination of the Christian faith in the church of which he was a

member, I shall feel that my aim has been fully achieved.

The annotations which accompany Dr. Otis's faithful and scholarly

translation are intended to give to the reader such information as he may

need for a full understanding of the text, and which he could not otherwise

obtain without the inconvenience of troublesome, and, in many instances, of

difficult and perplexing investigations. The sources of my information are

so fully given in connection with the notes that no further reference to

them in this place is required.

In the progress of the work, I have found myself under great obligations to

numerous friends for the loan of rare books, and for valuable suggestions

and assistance. The readiness with which historical scholars and the

custodians of our great depositories of learning have responded to my

inquiries, and the cordiality and courtesy with which they have uniformly

proffered their assistance, have awakened my deepest gratitude. I take this

opportunity to tender my cordial thanks to those who have thus obliged and

aided me. And, while I cannot spread the names of all upon these pages, I

hasten to mention, first of all, my friend, Dr. Otis, with whom I have been

so closely associated, and whose courteous manner and kindly suggestions

have rendered my task always an agreeable one. I desire, likewise, to

mention Mr. George Lamb, of Boston, who has gratuitously executed and

contributed a map, illustrating the explorations of Champlain; Mr. Justin

Winsor, of the Library of Harvard College; Mr. Charles A. Cutter, of the

Boston Athenaeum; Mr. John Ward Dean, of the Library of the New England

Historic Genealogical Society; Mrs. John Carter Brown, of Providence,

R. I.; Miss S. E. Dorr, of Boston; Monsieur L. Delisle, Directeur Général

de la Bibliothèque Nationale, of Paris; M. Meschinet De Richemond,

Archiviste de la Charente Inférieure, La Rochelle, France; the Hon. Charles

H. Bell, of Exeter, N. H.; Francis Parkman, LL.D., of Boston; the Abbé H.

R. Casgrain, of Rivière Ouelle, Canada; John G. Shea, LL.D., of New York;

Mr. James M. LeMoine, of Quebec; and Mr. George Prince, of Bath, Maine.

I take this occasion to state for the information of the members of the

Prince Society, that some important facts contained in the Memoir had not

been received when the text and notes of the second volume were ready for

the press, and, to prevent any delay in the completion of the whole work,

Vol. II. was issued before Vol. I., as will appear by the dates on their

respective title-pages.

E. F. S.

BOSTON, 14 ARLINGTON STREET, November 10, 1880.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

PREFACE

MEMOIR OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN

ANNOTATIONES POSTSCRIPTAE

PREFACE TO THE TRANSLATION

DEDICATION TO THE ADMIRAL, CHARLES DE MONTMORENCY

EXTRACT FROM THE LICENSE OF THE KING

THE SAVAGES, OR VOYAGE OF SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN, 1603

CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE CARTE DE LA NOVVELLE FRANCE, 1632

THE PRINCE SOCIETY, ITS CONSTITUTION AND MEMBERS

ILLUSTRATIONS.

ENGRAVED PORTRAIT OF CHAMPLAIN ON WOOD, AFTER THE ENGRAVING OF

MONCORNET BY E. RONJAT, _heliotype_.

MAP ILLUSTRATING THE EXPLORATIONS OF CHAMPLAIN, _heliotype_.

ENGRAVED PORTRAIT OF CHAMPLAIN, AFTER A PAINTING BY TH. HAMEL FROM AN

ENGRAVING OF MONCORNET, _steel_.

ILLUMINATED TITLE-PAGE OF THE VOYAGE OF 1615 ET 1618, _heliotype_.

CARTE DE LA NOVVELLE FRANCE, 1632, _heliotype_.

INDEX

MEMOIR OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN.

CHAPTER I.

PARENTAGE--BIRTH--HOME AT BROUAGE--ITS SITUATION--A MILITARY STATION--ITS

SALT WORKS--HIS EDUCATION--EARLY LOVE OF THE SEA--QUARTER-MASTER IN

BRITTANY--CATHOLICS AND HUGUENOTS--CATHERINE DE MEDICIS--THE LEAGUE--DUKE

DE MERCOEUR--MARSHAL D'AUMONT--DE SAINT LUC--MARSHAL DE BRISSAC--PEACE OF

VERVINS

Champlain was descended from an ancestry whose names are not recorded among

the renowned families of France. He was the son of Antoine de Champlain, a

captain in the marine, and his wife Marguerite LeRoy. They lived in the

little village of Brouage, in the ancient province of Saintonge. Of their

son Samuel, no contemporaneous record is known to exist indicating either

the day or year of his birth. The period at which we find him engaged in

active and responsible duties, such as are usually assigned to mature

manhood, leads to the conjecture that he was born about the year 1567. Of

his youth little is known. The forces that contributed to the formation of

his character are mostly to be inferred from the abode of his early years,

the occupations of those by whom he was surrounded, and the temper and

spirit of the times in which he lived.

Brouage is situated in a low, marshy region, on the southern bank of an

inlet or arm of the sea, on the southwestern shores of France, opposite to

that part of the Island of Oleron where it is separated from the mainland

only by a narrow channel. Although this little town can boast a great

antiquity, it never at any time had a large population. It is mentioned by

local historians as early as the middle of the eleventh century. It was a

seigniory of the family of Pons. The village was founded by Jacques de

Pons, after whose proper name it was for a time called Jacopolis, but soon

resumed its ancient appellation of Brouage.

An old chronicler of the sixteenth century informs us that in his time it

was a port of great importance, and the theatre of a large foreign

commerce. Its harbor, capable of receiving large ships, was excellent,

regarded, indeed, as the finest in the kingdom of France. [1] It was a

favorite idea of Charles VIII. to have at all times several war-ships in

this harbor, ready against any sudden invasion of this part of the coast.

At the period of Champlain's boyhood, the village of Brouage had two

absorbing interests. First, it had then recently become a military post of

importance; and second, it was the centre of a large manufacture of salt.

To these two interests, the whole population gave their thoughts, their

energy, and their enterprise.

In the reign of Charles IX., a short time before or perhaps a little after

the birth of Champlain, the town was fortified, and distinguished Italian

engineers were employed to design and execute the work. [2] To prevent a

sudden attack, it was surrounded by a capacious moat. At the four angles

formed by the moat were elevated structures of earth and wood planted upon

piles, with bastions and projecting angles, and the usual devices of

military architecture for the attainment of strength and facility of

defence. [3]

During the civil wars, stretching over nearly forty years of the last half

of the sixteenth century, with only brief and fitful periods of peace, this

little fortified town was a post ardently coveted by both of the contending

parties. Situated on the same coast, and only a few miles from Rochelle,

the stronghold of the Huguenots, it was obviously exceedingly important to

them that it should be in their possession, both as the key to the commerce

of the surrounding country and from the very great annoyance which an enemy

holding it could offer to them in numberless ways. Notwithstanding its

strong defences, it was nevertheless taken and retaken several times during

the struggles of that period. It was surrendered to the Huguenots in 1570,

but was immediately restored on the peace that presently followed. The king

of Navarre [4] took it by strategy in 1576, placed a strong garrison in it,

repaired and strengthened its fortifications; but the next year it was

forced to surrender to the royal army commanded by the duke of Mayenne. [5]

In 1585, the Huguenots made another attempt to gain possession of the town.

The Prince of Condé encamped with a strong force on the road leading to

Marennes, the only avenue to Brouage by land, while the inhabitants of

Rochelle co-operated by sending down a fleet which completely blocked up

the harbor. [6] While the siege was in successful progress, the prince

unwisely drew off a part of his command for the relief of the castle of

Angiers; [7] and a month later the siege was abandoned and the Huguenot

forces were badly cut to pieces by de Saint Luc, [8] the military governor

of Brouage, who pursued them in their retreat.

The next year, 1586, the town was again threatened by the Prince of Condé,

who, having collected another army, was met by De Saint Luc near the island

of Oleron, who sallied forth from Brouage with a strong force; and a

conflict ensued, lasting the whole day, with equal loss on both sides, but

with no decisive results.

Thus until 1589, when the King of Navarre, the leader of the Huguenots,

entered into a truce with Henry III., from Champlain's birth through the

whole period of his youth and until he entered upon his manhood, the little

town within whose walls he was reared was the fitful scene of war and

peace, of alarm and conflict.

But in the intervals, when the waves of civil strife settled into the calm

of a temporary peace, the citizens returned with alacrity to their usual

employment, the manufacture of salt, which was the absorbing article of

commerce in their port.

This manufacture was carried on more extensively in Saintonge than in any

other part of France. The salt was obtained by subjecting water drawn from

the ocean to solar evaporation. The low marsh-lands which were very

extensive about Brouage, on the south towards Marennes and on the north

towards Rochefort, were eminently adapted to this purpose. The whole of

this vast region was cut up into salt basins, generally in the form of

parallelograms, excavated at different depths, the earth and rubbish

scooped out and thrown on the sides, forming a platform or path leading

from basin to basin, the whole presenting to the eye the appearance of a

vast chess-board. The argillaceous earth at the bottom of the pans was made

hard to prevent the escape of the water by percolation. This was done in

the larger ones by leading horses over the surface, until, says an old

chronicler, the basins "would hold water as if they were brass." The water

was introduced from the sea, through sluices and sieves of pierced planks,

passing over broad surfaces in shallow currents, furnishing an opportunity

for evaporation from the moment it left the ocean until it found its way

into the numerous salt-basins covering the whole expanse of the marshy

plains. The water once in the basins, the process of evaporation was

carried on by the sun and the wind, assisted by the workmen, who agitated

the water to hasten the process. The first formation of salt was on the

surface, having a white, creamy appearance, exhaling an agreeable perfume,

resembling that of violets. This was the finest and most delicate salt,

while that precipitated, or falling to the bottom of the basin, was of a

darker hue.

When the crystallization was completed, the salt was gathered up, drained,

and piled in conical heaps on the platforms or paths along the sides of the

basins. At the height of the season, which began in May and ended in

September, when the whole marsh region was covered with countless white

cones of salt, it presented an interesting picture, not unlike the tented

camp of a vast army.

The salt was carried from the marshes on pack-horses, equipped each with a

white canvas bag, led by boys either to the quay, where large vessels were

lying, or to small barques which could be brought at high tide, by natural

or artificial inlets, into the very heart of the marsh-fields.

When the period for removing the salt came, no time was to be lost, as a

sudden fall of rain might destroy in an hour the products of a month. A

small quantity only could be transported at a time, and consequently great

numbers of animals were employed, which were made to hasten over the

sinuous and angulated paths at their highest speed. On reaching the ships,

the burden was taken by men stationed for the purpose, the boys mounted in

haste, and galloped back for another.

The scene presented in the labyrinth of an extensive salt-marsh was lively

and entertaining. The picturesque dress of the workmen, with their clean

white frocks and linen tights; the horses in great numbers mantled in their

showy salt-bags, winding their way on the narrow platforms, moving in all

directions, turning now to the right hand and now to the left, doubling

almost numberless angles, here advancing and again retreating, often going

two leagues to make the distance of one, maintaining order in apparent

confusion, altogether presented to the distant observer the aspect of a

grand equestrian masquerade.

The extent of the works and the labor and capital invested in them were

doubtless large for that period. A contemporary of Champlain informs us

that the wood employed in the construction of the works, in the form of

gigantic sluices, bridges, beam-partitions, and sieves, was so vast in

quantity that, if it were destroyed, the forests of Guienne would not

suffice to replace it. He also adds that no one who had seen the salt works

of Saintonge would estimate the expense of forming them less than that of

building the city of Paris itself.

The port of Brouage was the busy mart from which the salt of Saintonge was

distributed not only along the coast of France, but in London and Antwerp,

and we know not what other markets on the continent of Europe. [9]

The early years of Champlain were of necessity intimately associated with

the stirring scenes thus presented in this prosperous little seaport. As we

know that he was a careful observer, endowed by nature with an active

temperament and an unusual degree of practical sense we are sure that no

event escaped his attention, and that no mystery was permitted to go

unsolved. The military and commercial enterprise of the place brought him

into daily contact with men of the highest character in their departments.

The salt-factors of Brouage were persons of experience and activity, who

knew their business, its methods, and the markets at home and abroad. The

fortress was commanded by distinguished officers of the French army, and

was a rendezvous of the young nobility; like other similar places, a

training-school for military command. In this association, whether near or

remote, young Champlain, with his eagle eye and quick ear, was receiving

lessons and influences which were daily shaping his unfolding capacities,

and gradually compacting and crystallizing them into the firmness and

strength of character which he so largely displayed in after years. His

education, such as it was, was of course obtained during this period. He

has himself given us no intimation of its character or extent. A careful

examination of his numerous writings will, however, render it obvious that

it was limited and rudimentary, scarcely extending beyond the fundamental

branches which were then regarded as necessary in the ordinary transactions

of business. As the result of instruction or association with educated men,

he attained to a good general knowledge of the French language, but was

never nicely accurate or eminently skilful in its use. He evidently gave

some attention in his early years to the study and practice of drawing.

While the specimens of his work that have come down to us are marked by

grave defects, he appears nevertheless to have acquired facility and some

skill in the art, which he made exceedingly useful in the illustration of

his discoveries in the new world.

During Champlain's youth and the earlier years of his manhood, he appears

to have been engaged in practical navigation. In his address to the Queen

[10] he says, "this is the art which in my early years won my love, and has

induced me to expose myself almost all my life to the impetuous waves of

the ocean." That he began the practice of navigation at an early period may

likewise be inferred from the fact that in 1599 he was put in command of a

large French ship of 500 tons, which had been chartered by the Spanish

authorities for a voyage to the West Indies, of which we shall speak more

particularly in the sequel. It is obvious that he could not have been

intrusted with a command so difficult and of so great responsibility

without practical experience in navigation; and, as it will appear

hereafter that he was in the army several years during the civil war,

probably from 1592 to 1598, his experience in navigation must have been

obtained anterior to that, in the years of his youth and early manhood.

Brouage offered an excellent opportunity for such an employment. Its port

was open to the commerce of foreign nations, and a large number of vessels,

as we have already seen, was employed in the yearly distribution of the

salt of Saintonge, not only in the seaport towns of France, but in England

and on the Continent. In these coasting expeditions, Champlain was

acquiring skill in navigation which was to be of very great service to him

in his future career, and likewise gathering up rich stores of experience,

coming in contact with a great variety of men, observing their manners and

customs, and quickening and strengthening his natural taste for travel and

adventure. It is not unlikely that he was, at least during some of these

years, employed in the national marine, which was fully employed in

guarding the coast against foreign invasion, and in restraining the power

of the Huguenots, who were firmly seated at Rochelle with a sufficient

naval force to give annoyance to their enemies along the whole western

coast of France.

In 1592, or soon after that date, Champlain was appointed quarter-master in

the royal army in Brittany, discharging the office several years, until, by

the peace of Vervins, in 1598, the authority of Henry IV. was firmly

established throughout the kingdom. This war in Brittany constituted the

closing scene of that mighty struggle which had been agitating the nation,

wasting its resources and its best blood for more than half a century. It

began in its incipient stages as far back as a decade following 1530, when

the preaching of Calvin in the Kingdom of Navarre began to make known his

transcendent power. The new faith, which was making rapid strides in other

countries, easily awakened the warm heart and active temperament of the

French. The principle of private judgment which lies at the foundation of

Protestant teaching, its spontaneity as opposed to a faith imposed by

authority, commended it especially to the learned and thoughtful, while the

same principle awakened the quick and impulsive nature of the masses. The

effort to put down the movement by the extermination of those engaged in

it, proved not only unsuccessful, but recoiled, as usual in such cases,

upon the hand that struck the blow. Confiscations, imprisonments, and the

stake daily increased the number of those which these severe measures were

intended to diminish. It was impossible to mark its progress. When at

intervals all was calm and placid on the surface, at the same time, down

beneath, where the eye of the detective could not penetrate, in the closet

of the scholar and at the fireside of the artisan and the peasant, the new

gospel, silently and without observation, was spreading like an

all-pervading leaven. [11]

In 1562, the repressed forces of the Huguenots could no longer be

restrained, and, bursting forth, assumed the form of organized civil war.

With the exception of temporary lulls, originating in policy or exhaustion,

there was no cessation of arms until 1598. Although it is usually and

perhaps best described as a religious war, the struggle was not altogether

between the Catholic and the Huguenot or Protestant. There were many other

elements that came in to give their coloring to the contest, and especially

to determine the course and policy of individuals.

The ultra-Catholic desired to maintain the old faith with all its ancient

prestige and power, and to crush out and exclude every other. With this

party were found the court, certain ambitious and powerful families, and

nearly all the officials of the church. In close alliance with it were the

Roman Pontiff, the King of Spain, and the Catholic princes of Germany.

The Huguenots desired what is commonly known as liberty of conscience;

or, in other words, freedom to worship God according to their own views

of the truth, without interference or restriction. And in close alliance

with them were the Queen of England and the Protestant princes of

Germany.

Personal motives, irrespective of principle, united many persons and

families with either of these great parties which seemed most likely to

subserve their private ambitions. The feudal system was nearly extinct in

form, but its spirit was still alive. The nobles who had long held sway in

some of the provinces of France desired to hold them as distinct and

separate governments, and to transmit them as an inheritance to their

children. This motive often determined their political association.

During the most of the period of this long civil war, Catherine de Médicis

[12] was either regent or in the exercise of a controlling influence in the

government of France. She was a woman of commanding person and

extraordinary ability, skilful in intrigue, without conscience and without

personal religion. She hesitated at no crime, however black, if through it

she could attain the objects of her ambition. Neither of her three sons,

Francis, Charles, and Henry, who came successively to the throne, left any

legal heir to succeed him. The succession became, therefore, at an early

period, a question of great interest. If not the potent cause, it was

nevertheless intimately connected with most of the bloodshed of that bloody

period.

A solemn league was entered into by a large number of the ultra-Catholic

nobles to secure two avowed objects, the succession of a Catholic prince to

the throne, and the utter extermination of the Huguenots. Henry, King of

Navarre, afterwards Henry IV. of France, admitted to be the legal heir to

the throne, was a Protestant, and therefore by the decree of the League

disqualified to succeed. Around his standard, the Huguenots rallied in

great numbers. With him were associated the princes of Condé, of royal

blood, and many other distinguished nobles. They contended for the double

purpose of securing the throne to its rightful heir and of emancipating and

establishing the Protestant faith.

But there was another class, acting indeed with one or the other of these

two great parties, nevertheless influenced by very different motives. It

was composed of moderate Catholics, who cared little for the political

schemes and civil power of the Roman Pontiff, who dreaded the encroachments

of the King of Spain, who were firmly patriotic and desired the

aggrandizement and glory of France.

The ultra-Catholic party was, for a long period, by far the most numerous

and the more powerful; but the Huguenots were sufficiently strong to keep

up the struggle with varying success for nearly forty years.

After the alliance of Henry of Navarre with Henry III. against the League,

the moderate Catholics and the Huguenots were united and fought together

under the royal standard until the close of the war in 1598.

Champlain was personally engaged in the war in Brittany for several years.

This province on the western coast of France, constituting a tongue of land

jutting out as it were into the sea, isolated and remote from the great

centres of the war, was among the last to surrender to the arms of Henry

IV. The Huguenots had made but little progress within its borders. The Duke

de Mercoeur [13] had been its governor for sixteen years, and had bent all

his energies to separate it from France, organize it into a distinct

kingdom, and transmit its sceptre to his own family.

Champlain informs us that he was quarter-master in the army of the king

under Marshal d'Aumont, de Saint Luc, and Marshal de Brissac, distinguished

officers of the French army, who had been successively in command in that

province for the purpose of reducing it into obedience to Henry IV.

Marshal d'Aumont [14] took command of the army in Brittany in 1592. He was

then seventy years of age, an able and patriotic officer, a moderate

Catholic, and an uncompromising foe of the League. He had expressed his

sympathy for Henry IV. a long time before the death of Henry III., and when

that event occurred he immediately espoused the cause of the new monarch,

and was at once appointed to the command of one of the three great

divisions of the French army. He received a wound at the siege of the

Château de Camper, in Brittany, of which he died on the 19th of August,

1595.

De Saint Luc, already in the service in Brittany, as lieutenant-general

under D'Aumont, continued, after the death of that officer, in sole

command. [15] He raised the siege of the Château de Camper after the death

of his superior, and proceeded to capture several other posts, marching

through the lower part of the province, repressing the license of the

soldiery, and introducing order and discipline. On the 5th of September,

1596, he was appointed grand-master of the artillery of France, which

terminated his special service in Brittany.

The king immediately appointed in his place Marshal de Brissac, [16] an

officer of broad experience, who added other great qualities to those of an

able soldier. No distinguished battles signalized the remaining months of

the civil war in this province. The exhausted resources and faltering

courage of the people could no longer be sustained by the flatteries or

promises of the Duke de Mercoeur. Wherever the squadrons of the marshal

made their appearance the flag of truce was raised, and town, city, and

fortress vied with each other in their haste to bring their ensigns and lay

them at his feet.

On the seventh of June, 1598, the peace of Vervins was published in Paris,

and the kingdom of France was a unit, with the general satisfaction of all

parties, under the able, wise, and catholic sovereign, Henry the Fourth.

[17]

ENDNOTES:

1. The following from Marshal de Montluc refers to Brouage in 1568.

Speaking of the Huguenots he says:--"Or ils n'en pouvoient choisir un

plus à leur advantage, que celui de la Rochelle, duquel dépend celui de

Brouage, qui est le plus beau port de mer de la France." _Commentaires_,

Paris, 1760, Tom. III., p. 340.

2. "La Riviere Puitaillé qui en étoit Gouverneur, fut chargé de faire

travailler aux fortifications. Belarmat, Bephano, Castritio d'Urbin, &

le Cavalier Orlogio, tous Ingénieurs Italiens, présiderent aux

travaux."--_Histoire La Rochelle_, par Arcere, à la Rochelle, 1756, Tom.

I., p. 121.

3. _Histioire de la Saintonge et de l'Aunis_, 1152-1548, par M. D. Massion,

Paris. 1838, Vol. II., p. 406.

4. The King of Navarre "sent for Monsieur _de Mirabeau_ under colour of

treating with him concerning other businesses, and forced him to deliver

up Brouage into his hands, a Fort of great importance, as well for that

it lies upon the Coast of the Ocean-sea, as because it abounds with such

store of salt-pits, which yeeld a great and constant revenue; he made

the Sieur de Montaut Governour, and put into it a strong Garrison of his

dependents, furnishing it with ammunition, and fortifying it with

exceeding diligence."--_His. Civ. Warres of France_, by Henrico Caterino

Davila, London, 1647, p. 455.

5. "The Duke of Mayenne, having without difficulty taken Thone-Charente,

and Marans, had laid siege to Brouage, a place, for situation, strength,

and the profit of the salt-pits, of very great importance; when the

Prince of Condé, having tryed all possible means to relieve the

besieged, the Hugonots after some difficulty were brought into such a

condition, that about the end of August they delivered it up, saving

only the lives of the Souldiers and inhabitants, which agreement the

Duke punctually observed."--_His. Civ. Warres_, by Davila, London, 1647,

p. 472. See also _Memoirs of Sully_, Phila., 1817, Vol. I., p. 69.

"_Le Jeudi_ XXVIII _Mars_. Fut tenu Conseil au Cabinet de la Royne mère

du Roy [pour] aviser ce que M. du _Maine_ avoit à faire, & j'ai mis en

avant l'enterprise de _Brouage_."--_Journal de Henri III_., Paris, 1744,

Tom. III., p. 220.

6. "The Prince of Condé resolved to besiege Brouage, wherein was the Sieur

_de St. Luc_, one of the League, with no contemptible number of infantry

and some other gentlemen of the Country. The Rochellers consented to

this Enterprise, both for their profit, and reputation which redounded

by it; and having sent a great many Ships thither, besieged the Fortress

by Sea, whilst the Prince having possessed that passage which is the

only way to Brouage by land, and having shut up the Defendants within

the circuit of their walls, straightned the Siege very closely on that

side."--_Davila_, p. 582. See also, _Histoire de Thou_, à Londres, 1734,

Tom. IX., p. 383.

The blocking up the harbor at this time appears to have been more

effective than convenient. Twenty boats or rafts filled with earth and

stone were sunk with a purpose of destroying the harbor. De Saint Luc,

the governor, succeeded in removing only four or five. The entrance for

vessels afterward remained difficult except at high tide. Subsequently

Cardinal de Richelieu expended a hundred thousand francs to remove the

rest, but did not succeed in removing one of them.--_Vide Histoire de La

Rochelle_, par Arcere, Tom I. p. 121.

7. The Prince of Condé. "Leaving Monsieur de St. Mesmes with the Infantry

and Artillery at the Siege of Brouage, and giving order that the Fleet

should continue to block it up by sea, he departed upon the eight of

October to relieve the Castle of Angiers with 800 Gentlemen and 1400

Harquebuziers on horseback."--_Davila_, p. 583. See also _Memoirs of

Sully_, Phila., 1817, Vol. I., p 123; _Histoire de Thou_, à Londres,

1734, Tom. IX, p. 385.

8. "_St. Luc_ sallying out of Brouage, and following those that were

scattered severall wayes, made a great slaughter of them in many places;

whereupon the Commander, despairing to rally the Army any more, got away

as well as they could possibly, to secure their own strong holds."--

_His. Civ. Warres of France_, by Henrico Caterino Davila, London, 1647,

p 588.

9. An old writer gives us some idea of the vast quantities of salt exported

from France by the amount sent to a single country.

"Important denique sexies mille vel circiter centenarios salis, quorum

singuli constant centenis modiis, ducentenas ut minimum & vicenas

quinas, vel & tricenas, pro salis ipsius candore puritateque, libras

pondo pendentibus, sena igitur libras centenariorum millia, computatis

in singulos aureis nummis tricenis, centum & octoginta reserunt aureorum

millia."--_Belguae Descrtptio_, a Lud. Gvicciardino, Amstelodami, 1652,

p. 244.

TRANSLATION.--They import in fine 6000 centenarii of salt, each one of

which contains 100 bushels, weighing at least 225 or 230 pounds,

according to the purity and whiteness of the salt; therefore six

thousand centenarii, computing each at thirty golden nummi, amount to

180,000 aurei.

It may not be easy to determine the value of this importation in money,

since the value of gold is constantly changing, but the quantity

imported may be readily determined, which was according to the above

statement, 67,500 tons.

A treaty of April 30, 1527, between Francis I. of France and Henry VIII.

of England, provided as follows:--"And, besides, should furnish unto the

said _Henry_, as long as hee lived, yearly, of the Salt of _Brouage_,

the value of fifteene thousand Crownes."--_Life and Raigne of Henry

VIII._, by Lord Herbert of Cherbury, London, 1649, p. 206.

Saintonge continued for a long time to be the source of large exports of

salt. De Witt, writing about the year 1658, says they received in

Holland of "salt, yearly, the lading of 500 or 600 ships, exported from

Rochel, Maran, Brouage, the Island of Oleron, and Ree."--_Republick of

Holland_, by John De Witt, London, 1702, p. 271. But it no longer holds

the pre-eminence which it did three centuries ago. Saintonge long since

yielded the palm to Brittany.

10. Vide _Oeuvres de Champlain_, Quebec ed, Tom. III. p. v.

11. In 1558, it was estimated that there were already 400,000 persons in

France who were declared adherents of the Reformation.--_Ranke's Civil

Wars in France_, Vol. I., p. 234.

"Although our assemblies were most frequently held in the depth of

midnight, and our enemies very often heard us passing through the

street, yet so it was, that God bridled them in such manner that we

were preserved under His protection."--_Bernard Palissy_, 1580. Vide

_Morlay's Life of Palissy_, Vol. II., p. 274.

When Henry IV. besieged Paris, its population was more than 200,000.--

_Malte-Brun_.

12. "Catherine de Médicis was of a large and, at the same time, firm and

powerful figure, her countenance had an olive tint, and her prominent

eyes and curled lip reminded the spectator of her great uncle, Leo X"

--_Civil Wars in France_, by Leopold Ranke, London, 1852, p 28.

13. Philippe Emanuel de Lorraine, Duc de Mercoeur, born at Nomény,

September 9, 1558, was the son of Nicolas, Count de Vaudemont, by his

second wife, Jeanne de Savoy, and was half-brother of Queen Louise, the

wife of Henry III. He was made governor of Brittany in 1582. He

embraced the party of the League before the death of Henry III.,

entered into an alliance with Philip II., and gave the Spaniards

possession of the port of Blavet in 1591. He made his submission to

Henry IV. in 1598, on which occasion his only daughter Françoise,

probably the richest heiress in the kingdom, was contracted in marriage

to César, Duc de Vendôme, the illegitimate son of Henry IV. by

Gabrielle d'Estrées, the Duchess de Beaufort. The Duc de Mercoeur died

at Nuremburg, February 19, 1602.--_Vide Birch's Memoirs of Queen

Elizabeth_, Vol. I., p. 82; _Davila's His. Civil Warres of France_, p.

1476.

14. Jean d'Aumont, born in 1522, a Marshal of France who served under

six kings, Francis I., Henry II., Francis II., Charles IX., Henry

III., and Henry IV. He distinguished himself at the battles of

Dreux, Saint-Denis, Montcontour, and in the famous siege of

Rochelle in 1573. After the death of Henry III., he was the first

to recognize Henry IV., whom he served with the same zeal as he

had his five predecessors. He took part in the brilliant battle of

Arques in 1589. In the following year, he so distinguished himself

at Ivry that Henry IV., inviting him to sup with him after this

memorable battle, addressed to him these flattering words, "Il est

juste que vous soyez du festin, après m'avoir si bien servi à mes

noces." At the siege of the Château de Camper, in Upper Brittany,

he received a musket shot which fractured his arm, and died of the

wound on the 19th of August, 1595, at the age of seventy-three

years. "Ce grand capitaine qui avoit si bien mérité du Roi et de

la nation, emporta dans le tombeau les regrets des Officiers & des

soldats, qui pleurerent amérement la perte de leur Général. La

Bretagne qui le regardoit comme son père, le Roi, tout le Royaume

enfin, furent extrêmement touchez de sa mort. Malgré la haine

mutuelle des factions qui divisoient la France, il étoit si estimé

dans les deux partis, que s'il se fût agi de trouver un chevalier

François sans reproche, tel que nos peres en ont autrefois eu,

tout le monde auroit jette les yeux sur d'Aumont."--_Histoire

Universelle de Jacque-Auguste de Thou_, à Londres, 1734,

Tom. XII., p. 446--_Vide_ also, _Larousse; Camden's His. Queen

Elizabeth_, London, 1675 pp 486,487, _Memoirs of Sully_,

Philadelphia, 1817, pp. 122, 210; _Oeuvres de Brantôme_, Tom. IV.,

pp. 46-49; _Histoire de Bretagne_, par M. Daru, Paris, 1826,

Vol. III. p. 319; _Freer's His. Henry IV._, Vol. II, p. 70.

15. François d'Espinay de Saint-Luc, sometimes called _Le Brave Saint

Luc_, was born in 1554, and was killed at the battle of Amiens on

the 8th of September, 1597. He was early appointed governor of

Saintonge, and of the Fortress of Brouage, which he successfully

defended in 1585 against the attack of the King of Navarre and the

Prince de Condé. He assisted at the battle of Coutras in 1587. He

served as a lieutenant-general in Brittany from 1592 to 1596. In

1594, he planned with Brissac, his brother-in-law, then governor

of Paris for the League, for the surrender of Paris to Henry

IV. For this he was offered the baton of a Marshal of France by

the king, which he modestly declined, and begged that it might be

given to Brissac. In 1578, through the influence or authority of

Henry III., he married the heiress, Jeanne de Cosse-Brissac,

sister of Charles de Cosse-Brissac, _postea_, a lady of no

personal attractions, but of excellent understanding and

character. --_Vide Courcelle's Histoire Généalogique des Pairs de

France_, Vol. II.; _Birch's Memoirs of Queen Elizabeth_, Vol. I.,

pp. 163, 191; _Freer's Henry III._, p. 162; _De Mezeray's

His. France_, 1683, p. 861.

16. Charles de Cosse-Brissac, a Marshal of France and governor of Angiers.

He was a member of the League as early as 1585. He conceived the idea

of making France a republic after the model of ancient Rome. He laid

his views before the chief Leaguers but none of them approved his plan.

He delivered up Paris, of which he was governor, to Henry IV. in 1594,

for which he received the Marshal's baton. He died in 1621, at the

siege of Saint Jean d'Angely.--_Vide Davila_, pp. 538, 584, 585;

_Sully_, Philadelphia, 1817, V. 61. Vol. I., p. 420; _Brantôme_, Vol.

III., p. 84; _His. Collections_, London, 1598, p. 35; _De Thou_, à

Londres, 1724, Tome XII., p. 449.

17. "By the Articles of this Treaty the king was to restore the County of

_Charolois_ to the king of _Spain_, to be by him held of the Crown of

_France_; who in exchange restor'd the towns of _Calice, Ardres,

Montbulin, Dourlens, la Capelle_, and _le Catelet_ in _Picardy_, and

_Blavet_ in Britanny: which Articles were Ratifi'd and Sign'd by his

Majesty the eleventh of June [1598]; who in his gayety of humour, at so

happy a conclusion, told the Duke of _Espernon, That with one dash of

his Pen he had done greater things, than he could of a long time have

perform'd with the best Swords of his Kingdom."--Life of the Duke of

Espernon_, London, 1670, p. 203; _Histoire du Roy Henry le Grand_, par

Préfixe, Paris, 1681, p. 243.

CHAPTER II.

QUARTER-MASTER.--VISIT TO WEST INDIES, SOUTH AMERICA, MEXICO.--HIS

REPORT.--SUGGESTS A SHIP CANAL.--VOYAGE OF 1603.--EARLIER VOYAGES.--

CARTIER, DE LA ROQUE, MARQUIS DE LA ROCHE, SIEUR DE CHAUVIN, DE CHASTES.

--PRELIMINARY VOYAGE.--RETURN TO FRANCE.--DEATH OF DE CHASTES.--SIEUR DE

MONTS OBTAINS A CHARTER, AND PREPARES FOR AN EXPEDITION TO CANADA.

The service of Champlain as quarter-master in the war in Brittany commenced

probably with the appointment of Marshal d'Aumont to the command of the

army in 1592, and, if we are right in this conjecture, it covered a period

of not far from six years. The activity of the army, and the difficulty of

obtaining supplies in the general destitution of the province, imposed upon

him constant and perplexing duty. But in the midst of his embarrassments he

was gathering up valuable experience, not only relating to the conduct of

war, but to the transactions of business under a great variety of forms. He

was brought into close and intimate relations with men of character,

standing, and influence. The knowledge, discipline, and self-control of

which he was daily becoming master were unconsciously fitting him for a

career, humble though it might seem in its several stages, but nevertheless

noble and potent in its relations to other generations.

At the close of the war, the army which it had called into existence

was disbanded, the soldiers departed to their homes, the office of

quarter-master was of necessity vacated, and Champlain was left

without employment.

Casting about for some new occupation, following his instinctive love of

travel and adventure, he conceived the idea of attempting an exploration of

the Spanish West Indies, with the purpose of bringing back a report that

should be useful to France. But this was an enterprise not easy either to

inaugurate or carry out. The colonial establishments of Spain were at that

time hermetically sealed against all intercourse with foreign nations.

Armed ships, like watch-dogs, were ever on the alert, and foreign

merchantmen entered their ports only at the peril of confiscation. It was

necessary for Spain to send out annually a fleet, under a convoy of ships

of war, for the transportation of merchandise and supplies for the

colonies, returning laden with cargoes of almost priceless value.

Champlain, fertile in expedient, proposed to himself to visit Spain, and

there form such acquaintances and obtain such influence as would secure to

him in some way a passage to the Indies in this annual expedition.

The Spanish forces, allies of the League in the late war, had not yet

departed from the coast of France. He hastened to the port of Blavet, [18]

where they were about to embark, and learned to his surprise and

gratification that several French ships had been chartered, and that his

uncle, a distinguished French mariner, commonly known as the _Provençal

Cappitaine_, had received orders from Marshal de Brissac to conduct the

fleet, on which the garrison of Blavet was embarked, to Cadiz in Spain.

Champlain easily arranged to accompany his uncle, who was in command of the

"St. Julian," a strong, well-built ship of five hundred tons.

Having arrived at Cadiz, and the object of the voyage having been

accomplished, the French ships were dismissed, with the exception of the

"St. Julian," which was retained, with the Provincial Captain, who had

accepted the office of pilot-general for that year, in the service of the

King of Spain.

After lingering a month at Cadiz, they proceeded to St. Lucar de Barameda,

where Champlain remained three months, agreeably occupied in making

observations and drawings of both city and country, including a visit to

Seville, some fifty miles in the interior.

In the mean time, the fleet for the annual visit to the West Indies, to

which we have already alluded, was fitting out at Saint Lucar, and about to

sail under the command of Don Francisco Colombo, who, attracted by the size

and good sailing qualities of the "Saint Julian," chartered her for the

voyage. The services of the pilot-general were required in another

direction, and, with the approbation of Colombo, he gave the command of the

"Saint Julian" to Champlain. Nothing could have been more gratifying than

this appointment, which assured to Champlain a visit to the more important

Spanish colonies under the most favorable circumstances.

He accordingly set sail with the fleet, which left Saint Lucar at the

beginning of January, 1599.

Passing the Canaries, in two months and six days they sighted the little

island of Deseada, [19] the _vestibule_ of the great Caribbean

archipelago, touched at Guadaloupe, wound their way among the group called

the Virgins, turning to the south made for Margarita, [20] then famous for

its pearl fisheries, and from thence sailed to St. Juan de Porto-rico. Here

the fleet was divided into three squadrons. One was to go to Porto-bello,

on the Isthmus of Panama, another to the coast of South America, then

called Terra Firma, and the third to Mexico, then known as New Spain. This

latter squadron, to which Champlain was attached, coasted along the

northern shore of the island of Saint Domingo, otherwise Hispaniola,

touching at Porto Platte, Mancenilla, Mosquitoes, Monte Christo, and Saint

Nicholas. Skirting the southern coast of Cuba, reconnoitring the Caymans,

[21] they at length cast anchor in the harbor of San Juan d'Ulloa, the

island fortress near Vera Cruz. While here, Champlain made an inland

journey to the City of Mexico, where he remained a month. He also sailed in

a _patache_, or advice-boat, to Porto-bello, when, after a month, he

returned again to San Juan d'Ulloa. The squadron then sailed for Havana,

from which place Champlain was commissioned to visit, on public business,

Cartagena, within the present limits of New Grenada, on the coast of South

America. The whole _armada_ was finally collected together at Havana,

and from thence took its departure for Spain, passing through the channel

of Bahama, or Gulf of Florida, sighting Bermuda and the Azores, reaching

Saint Lucar early in March, 1601, after an absence from that port of two

years and two months. [22]

On Champlain's return to France, he prepared an elaborate report of his

observations and discoveries, luminous with sixty-two illustrations

sketched by his own hand. As it was his avowed purpose in making the voyage

to procure information that should be valuable to his government, he

undoubtedly communicated it in some form to Henry IV. The document remained

in manuscript two hundred and fifty-seven years, when it was first printed

at London in an English translation by the Hakluyt Society, in 1859. It is

an exceedingly interesting and valuable tract, containing a lucid

description of the peculiarities, manners, and customs of the people, the

soil, mountains, and rivers, the trees, fruits, and plants, the animals,

birds, and fishes, the rich mines found at different points, with frequent

allusions to the system of colonial management, together with the character

and sources of the vast wealth which these settlements were annually

yielding to the Spanish crown.

The reader of this little treatise will not fail to see the drift and

tendency of Champlain's mind and character unfolded on nearly every page.

His indomitable perseverance, his careful observation, his honest purpose

and amiable spirit are at all times apparent. Although a Frenchman, a

foreigner, and an entire stranger in the Spanish fleet, he had won the

confidence of the commander so completely, that he was allowed by special

permission to visit the City of Mexico, the Isthmus of Panama, and the

coast of South America, all of which were prominent and important centres

of interest, but nevertheless lying beyond the circuit made by the squadron

to which he was attached.

For the most part, Champlain's narrative of what he saw and of what he

learned from others is given in simple terms, without inference or comment.

His views are, however, clearly apparent in his description of the Spanish

method of converting the Indians by the Inquisition, reducing them to

slavery or the horrors of a cruel death, together with the retaliation

practised by their surviving comrades, resulting in a milder method. This

treatment of the poor savages by their more savage masters Champlain

illustrates by a graphic drawing, in which two stolid Spaniards are

guarding half a dozen poor wretches who are burning for their faith. In

another drawing he represents a miserable victim receiving, under the eye

and direction of the priest, the blows of an uplifted baton, as a penalty

for not attending church.

Champlain's forecast and fertility of mind may be clearly seen in his

suggestion that a ship-canal across the Isthmus of Panama would be a work

of great practical utility, saving, in the voyage to the Pacific side of

the Isthmus, a distance of more than fifteen hundred leagues. [23]

As it was the policy of Spain to withhold as much as possible all knowledge

of her colonial system and wealth in the West Indies, we may add, that

there is probably no work extant, on this subject, written at that period,

so full, impartial, and truthful as this tract by Champlain. It was

undoubtedly written out from notes and sketches made on the spot, and

probably occupied the early part of the two years that followed his return

from this expedition, during which period we are not aware that he entered

upon any other important enterprise. [24]

This tour among the Spanish colonies, and the description which Champlain

gave of them, information so much desired and yet so difficult to obtain,

appear to have made a strong and favorable impression upon the mind of

Henry IV., whose quick comprehension of the character of men was one of the

great qualities of this distinguished sovereign. He clearly saw that

Champlain's character was made up of those elements which are indispensable

in the servants of the executive will. He accordingly assigned him a

pension to enable him to reside near his person, and probably at the same

time honored him with a place within the charmed circle of the nobility.

[25]

While Champlain was residing at court, rejoicing doubtless in his new

honors and full of the marvels of his recent travels, he formed the

acquaintance, or perhaps renewed an old one, with Commander de Chastes,

[26] for many years governor of Dieppe, who had given a long life to the

service of his country, both by sea [27] and by land, and was a warm and

attached friend of Henry IV. The enthusiasm of the young voyager and the

long experience of the old commander made their interviews mutually

instructive and entertaining. De Chastes had observed and studied with

great interest the recent efforts at colonization on the coast of North

America. His zeal had been kindled and his ardor deepened doubtless by the

glowing recitals of his young friend. It was easy for him to believe that

France, as well as Spain, might gather in the golden fruits of

colonization. The territory claimed by France was farther to the north, in

climate and in sources of wealth widely different, and would require a

different management. He had determined, therefore, to send out an

expedition for the purpose of obtaining more definite information than he

already possessed, with the view to surrender subsequently his government

of Dieppe, take up his abode in the new world, and there dedicate his

remaining years to the service of God and his king. He accordingly obtained

a commission from the king, associating with himself some of the principal

merchants of Rouen and other cities, and made preparations for despatching

a pioneer fleet to reconnoitre and fix upon a proper place for settlement,

and to determine what equipment would be necessary for the convenience and

comfort of the colony. He secured the services of Pont Gravé, [28] a

distinguished merchant and Canadian fur-trader, to conduct the expedition.

Having laid his views open fully to Champlain, he invited him also to join

the exploring party, as he desired the opinion and advice of so careful an

observer as to a proper plan of future operations.

No proposition could have been more agreeable to Champlain than this, and

he expressed himself quite ready for the enterprise, provided De Chastes

would secure the consent of the king, to whom he was under very great

obligations. De Chastes readily obtained the desired permission, coupled,

however, with an order from the king to Champlain to bring back to him a

faithful report of the voyage. Leaving Paris, Champlain hastened to

Honfleur, armed with a letter of instructions from M. de Gesures, the

secretary of the king, to Pont Gravé, directing him to receive Champlain

and afford him every facility for seeing and exploring the country which

they were about to visit. They sailed for the shores of the New World on

the 15th of March, 1603.

The reader should here observe that anterior to this date no colonial

settlement had been made on the northern coasts of America. These regions

had, however, been frequented by European fishermen at a very early period,

certainly within the decade after its discovery by John Cabot in 1497. But

the Basques, Bretons, and Normans, [29] who visited these coasts, were

intent upon their employment, and consequently brought home only meagre

information of the country from whose shores they yearly bore away rich

cargoes of fish.

The first voyage made by the French for the purpose of discovery in our

northern waters of which we have any authentic record was by Jacques

Cartier in 1534, and another was made for the same purpose by this

distinguished navigator in 1535. In the former, he coasted along the shores

of Newfoundland, entered and gave its present name to the Bay of Chaleur,

and at Gaspé took formal possession of the country in the name of the king.

In the second, he ascended the St. Lawrence as far as Montreal, then an

Indian village known by the aborigines as Hochelaga, situated on an island

at the base of an eminence which they named _Mont-Royal_, from which the

present commercial metropolis of the Dominion derives its name. After a

winter of great suffering, which they passed on the St. Charles, near

Quebec, and the death of many of his company, Cartier returned to France

early in the summer of 1536. In 1541, he made a third voyage, under the

patronage of François de la Roque, Lord de Roberval, a nobleman of Picardy.

He sailed up the St. Lawrence, anchoring probably at the mouth of the river

Cap Rouge, about four leagues above Quebec, where he built a fort which he

named _Charlesbourg-Royal_. Here he passed another dreary and disheartening

winter, and returned to France in the spring of 1542. His patron, De

Roberval, who had failed to fulfil his intention to accompany him the

preceding year, met him at St. John, Newfoundland. In vain Roberval urged

and commanded him to retrace his course; but the resolute old navigator had

too recent an experience and saw too clearly the inevitable obstacles to

success in their undertaking to be diverted from his purpose. Roberval

proceeded up the Saint Lawrence, apparently to the fort just abandoned by

Cartier, which he repaired and occupied the next winter, naming it

_Roy-Francois_; [30] but the disasters which followed, the sickness and

death of many of his company, soon forced him, likewise, to abandon the

enterprise and return to France.

Of these voyages, Cartier, or rather his pilot-general, has left full and

elaborate reports, giving interesting and detailed accounts of the mode of

life among the aborigines, and of the character and products of the

country.

The entire want of success in all these attempts, and the absorbing and

wasting civil wars in France, paralyzed the zeal and put to rest all

aspirations for colonial adventure for more than half a century.

But in 1598, when peace again began to dawn upon the nation, the spirit of

colonization revived, and the Marquis de la Roche, a nobleman of Brittany,

obtained a royal commission with extraordinary and exclusive powers of

government and trade, identical with those granted to Roberval nearly sixty

years before. Having fitted out a vessel and placed on board forty convicts

gathered out of the prisons of France, he embarked for the northern coasts

of America. The first land he made was Sable Island, a most forlorn

sand-heap rising out of the Atlantic Ocean, some thirty leagues southeast

of Cape Breton. Here he left these wretched criminals to be the strength

and hope, the bone and sinew of the little kingdom which, in his fancy, he

pictured to himself rising under his fostering care in the New World. While

reconnoitring the mainland, probably some part of Nova Scotia, for the

purpose of selecting a suitable location for his intended settlement, a

furious gale swept him from the coast, and, either from necessity or

inclination, he returned to France, leaving his hopeful colonists to a fate

hardly surpassed by that of Selkirk himself, and at the same time

dismissing the bright visions that had so long haunted his mind, of

personal aggrandizement at the head of a colonial establishment.

The next year, 1599, Sieur de Saint Chauvin, of Normandy, a captain in the

royal marine, at the suggestion of Pont Gravé, of Saint Malo, an

experienced fur-trader, to whom we have already referred, and who had made

several voyages to the northwest anterior to this, obtained a commission

sufficiently comprehensive, amply providing for a colonial settlement and

the propagation of the Christian faith, with, indeed, all the privileges

accorded by that of the Marquis de la Roche. But the chief and present

object which Chauvin and Pont Gravé hoped to attain was the monopoly of the

fur trade, which they had good reason to believe they could at that time

conduct with success. Under this commission, an expedition was accordingly

fitted out and sailed for Tadoussac. Successful in its main object, with a

full cargo of valuable furs, they returned to France in the autumn,

leaving, however, sixteen men, some of whom perished during the winter,

while the rest were rescued from the same fate by the charity of the

Indians. In the year 1600, Chauvin made another voyage, which was equally

remunerative, and a third had been projected on a much broader scale, when

his death intervened and prevented its execution.

The death of Sieur de Chauvin appears to have vacated his commission, at

least practically, opening the way for another, which was obtained by the

Commander de Chastes, whose expedition, accompanied by Champlain, as we

have already seen, left Honfleur on the 15th of March, 1603. It consisted

of two barques of twelve or fifteen tons, one commanded by Pont Gravé, and

the other by Sieur Prevert, of Saint Malo, and was probably accompanied by

one or more advice-boats. They took with them two Indians who had been in

France some time, doubtless brought over by De Chauvin on his last voyage.

With favoring winds, they soon reached the banks of Newfoundland, sighted

Cape Ray, the northern point of the Island of Cape Breton, Anticosti and

Gaspé, coasting along the southern side of the river Saint Lawrence as far

as the Bic, where, crossing over to the northern shore, they anchored in

the harbor of Tadoussac. After reconnoitring the Saguenay twelve or fifteen

leagues, leaving their vessels at Tadoussac, where an active fur trade was

in progress with the Indians, they proceeded up the St. Lawrence in a light

boat, passed Quebec, the Three Rivers, Lake St. Peter, the Richelieu, which

they called the river of the Iroquois, making an excursion up this stream

five or six leagues, and then, continuing their course, passing Montreal,

they finally cast anchor on the northern side, at the foot of the Falls of

St. Louis, not being able to proceed further in their boat.

Having previously constructed a skiff for the purpose, Pont Gravé and

Champlain, with five sailors and two Indians with a canoe, attempted to

pass the falls. But after a long and persevering trial, exploring the

shores on foot for some miles, they found any further progress quite

impossible with their present equipment. They accordingly abandoned the

undertaking and set out on their return to Tadoussac. They made short stops

at various points, enabling Champlain to pursue his investigations with

thoroughness and deliberation. He interrogated the Indians as to the course

and extent of the St. Lawrence, as well as that of the other large rivers,

the location of the lakes and falls, and the outlines and general features

of the country, making rude drawings or maps to illustrate what the Indians

found difficult otherwise to explain. [31]

The savages also exhibited to them specimens of native copper, which they

represented as having been obtained from the distant north, doubtless from

the neighborhood of Lake Superior. On reaching Tadoussac, they made another

excursion in one of the barques as far as Gaspé, observing the rivers,

bays, and coves along the route. When they had completed their trade with

the Indians and had secured from them a valuable collection of furs, they

commenced their return voyage to France, touching at several important

points, and obtaining from the natives some general hints in regard to the

existence of certain mines about the head waters of the Bay of Fundy.

Before leaving, one of the Sagamores placed his son in charge of Pont

Gravé, that he might see the wonders of France, thus exhibiting a

commendable appreciation of the advantages of foreign travel. They also

obtained the gift of an Iroquois woman, who had been taken in war, and was

soon to be immolated as one of the victims at a cannibal feast. Besides

these, they took with them also four other natives, a man from the coast of

La Cadie, and a woman and two boys from Canada.

The two little barques left Gaspé on the 24th of August; on the 5th of

September they were at the fishing stations on the Grand Banks, and on the

20th of the same month arrived at Havre de Grâce, having been absent six

months and six days.

Champlain received on his arrival the painful intelligence that the

Commander de Chastes, his friend and patron, under whose auspices the late

expedition had been conducted, had died on the 13th of May preceding. This

event was a personal grief as well as a serious calamity to him, as it

deprived him of an intimate and valued friend, and cast a cloud over the

bright visions that floated before him of discoveries and colonies in the

New World. He lost no time in repairing to the court, where he laid before

his sovereign, Henry IV., a map constructed by his own hand of the regions

which he had just visited, together with a very particular narrative of the

voyage.

This "petit discours," as Champlain calls it, is a clear, compact,

well-drawn paper, containing an account of the character and products of

the country, its trees, plants, fruits, and vines, with a description of

the native inhabitants, their mode of living, their clothing, food and its

preparation, their banquets, religion, and method of burying their dead,

with many other interesting particulars relating to their habits and

customs.

Henry IV. manifested a deep interest in Champlain's narrative. He listened

to its recital with great apparent satisfaction, and by way of

encouragement promised not to abandon the undertaking, but to continue to

bestow upon it his royal favor and patronage.

There chanced at this time to be residing at court, a Huguenot gentleman

who had been a faithful adherent of Henry IV. in the late war, Pierre du

Guast, Sieur de Monts, gentleman ordinary to the king's chamber, and

governor of Pons in Saintonge. This nobleman had made a trip for pleasure

or recreation to Canada with De Chauvin, several years before, and had

learned something of the country, and especially of the advantages of the

fur trade with the Indians. He was quite ready, on the death of De Chastes,

to take up the enterprise which, by this event, had been brought to a

sudden and disastrous termination. He immediately devised a scheme for the

establishment of a colony under the patronage of a company to be composed

of merchants of Rouen, Rochelle, and of other places, their contributions

for covering the expense of the enterprise to be supplemented, if not

rendered entirely unnecessary, by a trade in furs and peltry to be

conducted by the company.

In less than two months after the return of the last expedition, De Monts

had obtained from Henry IV., though contrary to the advice of his most

influential minister, [32] a charter constituting him the king's lieutenant

in La Cadie, with all necessary and desirable powers for a colonial

settlement. The grant included the whole territory lying between the 40th

and 46th degrees of north latitude. Its southern boundary was on a parallel

of Philadelphia, while its northern was on a line extended due west from

the most easterly point of the Island of Cape Breton, cutting New Brunswick

on a parallel near Fredericton, and Canada near the junction of the river

Richelieu and the St. Lawrence. It will be observed that the parts of New

France at that time best known were not included in this grant, viz., Lake

St. Peter, Three Rivers, Quebec, Tadoussac, Gaspé, and the Bay Chaleur.

These were points of great importance, and had doubtless been left out of

the charter by an oversight arising from an almost total want of a definite

geographical knowledge of our northern coast. Justly apprehending that the

places above mentioned might not be included within the limits of his

grant, De Monts obtained, the next month, an extension of the bounds of his

exclusive right of trade, so that it should comprehend the whole region of

the gulf and river of St. Lawrence. [33]

The following winter, 1603-4, was devoted by De Monts to organizing his

company, the collection of a suitable band of colonists, and the necessary

preparations for the voyage. His commission authorized him to seize any

idlers in the city or country, or even convicts condemned to

transportation, to make up the bone and sinew of the colony. To what extent

he resorted to this method of filling his ranks, we know not. Early in

April he had gathered together about a hundred and twenty artisans of all

trades, laborers, and soldiers, who were embarked upon two ships, one of

120 tons, under the direction of Sieur de Pont Gravé, commanded, however,

by Captain Morel, of Honfleur; another of 150 tons, on which De Monts

himself embarked with several noblemen and gentlemen, having Captain

Timothée, of Havre de Grâce, as commander.

De Monts extended to Champlain an invitation to join the expedition, which

he readily accepted, but, nevertheless, on the condition, as in the

previous voyage, of the king's assent, which was freely granted,

nevertheless with the command that he should prepare a faithful report of

his observations and discoveries.

ENDNOTES:

18. Blavet was situated at the mouth of the River Blavet, on the southern

coast of Brittany. Its occupation had been granted to the Spanish by

the Duke de Mercoeur during the civil war, and, with other places held

by the Spanish, was surrendered by the treaty of Vervins, in June,

1598. It was rebuilt and fortified by Louis XIII, and is now known as

Port Louis.

19. _Deseada_, signifying in Spanish the desired land.

20. _Margarita_, a Spanish word from the Greek [Greek: margaritaes],

signifying a pearl. The following account by an eye-witness will not be

uninteresting: "Especially it yieldeth store of pearls, those gems

which the Latin writers call _Uniones_, because _nulli duo reperiuntur

discreti_, they always are found to grow in couples. In this Island

there are many rich Merchants who have thirty, forty, fifty _Blackmore_

slaves only to fish out of the sea about the rocks these pearls....

They are let down in baskets into the Sea, and so long continue under

the water, until by pulling the rope by which they are let down, they

make their sign to be taken up.... From _Margarita_ are all the Pearls

sent to be refined and bored to _Carthagena_, where is a fair and

goodly street of no other shops then of these Pearl dressers. Commonly

in the month of _July_ there is a ship or two at most ready in the

Island to carry the King's revenue, and the Merchant's pearls to

_Carthagena_. One of these ships is valued commonly at three score

thousand or four score thousand ducats and sometimes more, and

therefore are reasonable well manned; for that the _Spaniards_ much

fear our _English_ and the _Holland_ ships."--_Vide New Survey of the

West Indies_, by Thomas Gage, London, 1677, p. 174.

21. _Caymans_, Crocodiles.

22. For an interesting Account of the best route to and from the West

Indies in order to avoid the vigilant French and English corsairs, see

_Notes on Giovanni da Verrazano_, by J. C. Brevoort, New York, 1874, p.

101.

23. At the time that Champlain was at the isthmus, in 1599-1601, the gold

and silver of Peru were brought to Panama, then transported on mules a

distance of about four leagues to a river, known as the Rio Chagres,

whence they were conveyed by water first to Chagres, and thence along

the coast to Porto-bello, and there shipped to Spain.

Champlain refers to a ship-canal in the following words: "One might

judge, if the territory four leagues in extent lying between Panama and

this river were cut through, he could pass from the south sea to that

on the other side, and thus shorten the route by more than fifteen

hundred leagues. From Panama to the Straits of Magellan would

constitute an island, and from Panama to New Foundland another, so that

the whole of America would be in two islands."--_Vide Brief Discours

des Choses Plus Rémarquables_, par Sammuel Champlain de Brovage, 1599,

Quebec ed., Vol. I. p 141. This project of a ship canal across the

isthmus thus suggested by Champlain two hundred and eighty years ago is

now attracting the public attention both in this country and in Europe.

Several schemes are on foot for bringing it to pass, and it will

undoubtedly be accomplished, if it shall be found after the most

careful and thorough investigation to be within the scope of human

power, and to offer adequate commercial advantages.

Some of the difficulties to be overcome are suggested by Mr. Marsh in

the following excerpt--

"The most colossal project of canalization ever suggested, whether we

consider the physical difficulties of its execution, the magnitude and

importance of the waters proposed to be united, or the distance which

would be saved in navigation, is that of a channel between the Gulf of

Mexico and the Pacific, across the Isthmus of Darien. I do not now

speak of a lock-canal, by way of the Lake of Nicaragua, or any other

route,--for such a work would not differ essentially from other canals

and would scarcely possess a geographical character,--but of an open

cut between the two seas. The late survey by Captain Selfridge, showing

that the lowest point on the dividing ridge is 763 feet above the

sea-level, must be considered as determining in the negative the

question of the possibility of such a cut, by any means now at the

control of man; and both the sanguine expectations of benefits, and the

dreary suggestions of danger from the realization of this great dream,

may now be dismissed as equally chimerical."--_Vide The Earth as

Modified by Human Action_, by George P. Marsh, New York, 1874, p. 612.

24. A translation of Champlain's Voyage to the West Indies and Mexico was

made by Alice Wilmere, edited by Norton Shaw, and published by the

Hakluyt Society, London, 1859.

25. No positive evidence is known to exist as to the time when Champlain

was ennobled. It seems most likely to have been in acknowledgment of

his valuable report made to Henry IV. after his visit to the West

Indies.

26. Amyar de Chastes died on the 13th of May, 1603, greatly respected and

beloved by his fellow-citizens. He was charged by his government with

many important and responsible duties. In 1583, he was sent by Henry

III., or rather by Catherine de Médicis, to the Azores with a military

force to sustain the claims of Antonio, the Prior of Crato, to the

throne of Portugal. He was a warm friend and supporter of Henry IV.,

and took an active part in the battles of Ivry and Arques. He commanded

the French fleet on the coasts of Brittany; and, during the long

struggle of this monarch with internal enemies and external foes, he

was in frequent communication with the English to secure their

co-operation, particularly against the Spanish. He accompanied the Duke

de Boullon, the distinguished Huguenot nobleman, to England, to be

present and witness the oath of Queen Elizabeth to the treaty made with

France.

On this occasion he received a valuable jewel as a present from the

English queen. He afterwards directed the ceremonies and entertainment

of the Earl of Shrewsbury, who was deputed to receive the ratification

of the before-mentioned treaty by Henry IV. _Vide Busk's His. Spain and

Portugal_, London, 1833, p. 129 _et passim_; _Denis' His. Portugal_,

Paris, 1846, p. 296; _Freer's Life of Henry IV._, Vol. I. p. 121, _et

passim_; _Memoirs of Sully_, Philadelphia, 1817, Vol. I. p. 204;

_Birch's Memoirs Queen Elizabeth_, London, 1754, Vol. II. pp. 121, 145,

151, 154, 155; _Asselini MSS. Chron._, cited by Shaw in _Nar Voyage to

West Ind. and Mexico_, Hakluyt Soc., 1859, p. xv.

27. "Au même tems les nouvelles vinrent.... que le Commandeur de Chastes

dressoit une grande Armée de Mer en Bretagne."--_Journal de Henri III._

(1586), Paris, 1744, Tom. III. p. 279.

28. Du Pont Gravé was a merchant of St Malo. He had been associated with

Chauvin in the Canada trade, and continued to visit the St Lawrence for

this purpose almost yearly for thirty years.

He was greatly respected by Champlain, and was closely associated with

him till 1629. After the English captured Quebec, he appears to have

retired, forced to do so by the infirmities of age.

29. Jean Parmentier, of Dieppe, author of the _Discorso d'un gran capitano_

in Ramusio, Vol. III., p. 423, wrote in the year 1539, and he says the

Bretons and Normans were in our northern waters thirty-five years

before, which would be in 1504. _Vide_ Mr. Parkman's learned note and

citations in _Pioneers of France in the New World_, pp. 171, 172. The

above is doubtless the authority on which the early writers, such as

Pierre Biard, Champlain, and others, make the year 1504 the period when

the French voyages for fishing commenced.

30. _Vide Voyage of Iohn Alphonse of Xanctoigne_, Hakluyt, Vol. III., p.

293.

31. Compare the result of these inquiries as stated by Champlain, p.252 of

this vol and _New Voyages_, by Baron La Hontan, 1684, ed. 1735, Vol I.

p. 30.

32. The Duke of Sully's disapprobation is expressed in the following words:

"The colony that was sent to Canada this year, was among the number of

those things that had not my approbation; there was no kind of riches

to be expected from all those countries of the new world, which are

beyond the fortieth degree of latitude. His majesty gave the conduct of

this expedition to the Sieur du Mont."--_Memoirs of Sully_,

Philadelphia, 1817, Vol. III. p. 185.

33. "Frequenter, négocier, et communiquer durant ledit temps de dix ans,

depuis le Cap de Raze jusques au quarantième degré, comprenant toute la

côte de la Cadie, terre et Cap Breton, Bayes de Sainct-Cler, de

Chaleur, Ile Percée, Gachepé, Chinschedec, Mesamichi, Lesquemin,

Tadoussac, et la rivière de Canada, tant d'un côté que d'aurre, et

toutes les Bayes et rivières qui entrent au dedans désdites côtes."--

Extract of Commission, _Histoire de la Nouvelle-France_, par Lescarbot,

Paris, 1866, Vol. II. p. 416.

CHAPTER III.

DE MONTS LEAVES FOR LA CADIE--THE COASTS OF NOVA SCOTIA.--THE BAY OF FUNDY

--SEARCH FOR COPPER MINE--CHAMPLAIN EXPLORES THE PENOBSCOT--DE MONTS'S

ISLAND--SUFFERINGS OF THE COLONY--EXPLORATION OF THE COAST AS FAR AS

NAUSET, ON CAPE COD

De Monts, with Champlain and the other noblemen, left Havre de Grâce on the

7th April, 1604, while Pont Gravé, with the other vessel, followed three

days later, to rendezvous at Canseau.

Taking a more southerly course than he had originally intended, De Monts

came in sight of La Hève on the 8th of May, and on the 12th entered

Liverpool harbor, where he found Captain Rossignol, of Havre de Grâce,

carrying on a contraband trade in furs with the Indians, whom he arrested,

and confiscated his vessel.

The next day they anchored at Port Mouton, where they lingered three or

four weeks, awaiting news from Pont Gravé, who had in the mean time arrived

at Canseau, the rendezvous agreed upon before leaving France. Pont Gravé

had there discovered several Basque ships engaged in the fur-trade. Taking

possession of them, he sent their masters to De Monts. The ships were

subsequently confiscated and sent to Rochelle.

Captain Fouques was despatched to Canseau in the vessel which had been

taken from Rossignol, to bring forward the supplies which had been brought

over by Pont Gravé. Having transshipped the provisions intended for the

colony, Pont Gravé proceeded through the Straits of Canseau up the St.

Lawrence, to trade with the Indians, upon the profits of which the company

relied largely for replenishing their treasury.

In the mean time Champlain was sent in a barque of eight tons, with the

secretary Sieur Ralleau, Mr. Simon, the miner, and ten men, to reconnoitre

the coast towards the west. Sailing along the shore, touching at numerous

points, doubling Cape Sable, he entered the Bay of Fundy, and after

exploring St. Mary's Bay, and discovering several mines of both silver and

iron, returned to Port Mouton and made to De Monts a minute and careful

report.

De Monts immediately weighed anchor and sailed for the Bay of St. Mary,

where he left his vessel, and, with Champlain, the miner, and some others,

proceeded to explore the Bay of Fundy. They entered and examined Annapolis

harbor, coasted along the western shores of Nova Scotia, touching at the

Bay of Mines, passing over to New Brunswick, skirting its whole

southeastern coast, entering the harbor of St. John, and finally

penetrating Passamaquoddy Bay as far as the mouth of the river St. Croix,

and fixed upon De Monts's Island [34] as the seat of their colony. The

vessel at St. Mary's with the colonists was ordered to join them, and

immediately active measures were taken for laying out gardens, erecting

dwellings and storehouses, and all the necessary preparations for the

coming winter. Champlain was commissioned to design and lay out the town,

if so it could be called.

When the work was somewhat advanced, he was sent in a barque of five or six

tons, manned with nine sailors, to search for a mine of pure copper, which

an Indian named Messamoüet had assured them he could point out to them on

the coast towards the river St. John. Some twenty-five miles from the river

St. Croix, they found a mine yielding eighteen per cent, as estimated by

the miner; but they did not discover any pure copper, as they had hoped.

On the last day of August, 1604, the vessel which had brought out the

colony, together with that which had been taken from Rossignol, took their

departure for the shores of France. In it sailed Poutrincourt, Ralleau the

secretary of De Monts, and Captain Rossignol.

From the moment of his arrival on the coast of America, Champlain employed

his leisure hours in making sketches and drawings of the most important

rivers, harbors, and Indian settlements which they had visited.

While the little colony at De Monts's Island was active in getting its

appointments arranged and settled, De Monts wisely determined, though he

could not accompany it himself, nevertheless to send out an expedition

during the mild days of autumn, to explore the region still further to the

south, then called by the Indians Norumbegue. Greatly to the satisfaction

of Champlain, he was personally charged, with this important expedition. He

set out on the 2d of September, in a barque of seventeen or eighteen tons,

with twelve sailors and two Indian guides. The inevitable fogs of that

region detained them nearly a fortnight before they were able to leave the

banks of Passamaquoddy. Passing along the rugged shores of Maine, with its

endless chain of islands rising one after another into view, which they

called the Ranges, they at length came to the ancient Pemetiq, lying close

in to the shore, having the appearance at sea of seven or eight mountains

drawn together and springing from the same base. This Champlain named

_Monts Déserts_, which we have anglicized into Mount Desert, [35] an

appellation which has survived the vicissitudes of two hundred and

seventy-five years, and now that the island, with its salubrious air and

cool shades, its bold and picturesque scenery, is attracting thousands from

the great cities during the heats of summer, the name is likely to abide

far down into a distant and indefinite future.

Leaving Mount Desert, winding their way among numerous islands, taking a

northerly direction, they soon entered the Penobscot, [36] known by the

early navigators as the river Norumbegue. They proceeded up the river as

far as the mouth of an affluent now known as the Kenduskeag, [37] which was

then called, or rather the place where it made a junction with the

Penobscot was called by the natives, _Kadesquit_, situated at the head of

tide-water, near the present site of the city of Bangor. The falls above

the city intercepted their further progress. The river-banks about the

harbor were fringed with a luxurious growth of forest trees. On one side,

lofty pines reared their gray trunks, forming a natural palisade along the

shore. On the other, massive oaks alone were to be seen, lifting their

sturdy branches to the skies, gathered into clumps or stretching out into

long lines, as if a landscape gardener had planted them to please the eye

and gratify the taste. An exploration revealed the whole surrounding region

clothed in a similar wild and primitive beauty.

After a leisurely survey of the country, they returned to the mouth of the

river. Contrary to what might have been expected, Champlain found scarcely

any inhabitants dwelling on the borders of the Penobscot. Here and there

they saw a few deserted wigwams, which were the only marks of human

occupation. At the mouth of the river, on the borders of Penobscot Bay, the

native inhabitants were numerous. They were of a friendly disposition, and

gave their visitors a cordial welcome, readily entered into negotiations

for the sale of beaver-skins, and the two parties mutually agreed to

maintain a friendly intercourse in the future.

Having obtained from the Indians some valuable information as to the source

of the Penobscot, and observed their mode of life, which did not differ

from that which they had seen still further east, Champlain departed on the

20th of September, directing his course towards the Kennebec. But,

encountering bad weather, he found it necessary to take shelter under the

lee of the island of Monhegan.

After sailing three or four leagues farther, finding that his provisions

would not warrant the continuance of the voyage, he determined, on the 23d

of September, to return to the settlement at Saint Croix, or what is now

known as De Monts's Island, where they arrived on the 2d day of October,

1604.

De Monts's Island, having an area of not more than six or seven acres, is

situated in the river Saint Croix, midway between its opposite shores,

directly upon the dividing line between the townships of Calais and

Robinston in the State of Maine. At the northern end of the island, the

buildings of the settlement were clustered together in the form of a

quadrangle with an open court in the centre. First came the magazine and

lodgings of the soldiers, then the mansion of the governor, De Monts,

surmounted by the colors of France. Houses for Champlain and the other

gentlemen, [38] for the curé, the artisans and workmen, filled up and

completed the quadrangle. Below the houses, gardens were laid out for the

several gentlemen, and at the southern extremity of the island cannon were

mounted for protection against a sudden assault.

In the ample forests of Maine or New Brunswick, rich in oak and maple and

pine, abounding in deer, partridge, and other wild game, watered by crystal

fountains springing from every acre of the soil, we naturally picture for

our colonists a winter of robust health, physical comfort, and social

enjoyment. The little island which they had chosen was indeed a charming

spot in a summer's day, but we can hardly comprehend in what view it could

have been regarded as suitable for a colonial plantation. In space it was

wholly inadequate; it was destitute of wood and fresh water, and its soil

was sandy and unproductive. In fixing the location of their settlement and

in the construction of their houses, it is obvious that they had entirely

misapprehended the character of the climate. While the latitude was nearly

the same, the temperature was far more rigorous than that of the sunny

France which they had left. The snow began to fall on the 6th of October.

On the 3d of December the ice was seen floating on the surface of the

water. As the season advanced, and the tide came and went, huge floes of

ice, day after day, swept by the island, rendering it impracticable to

navigate the river or pass over to the mainland. They were therefore

imprisoned in their own home. Thus cut off from the game with which the

neighboring forests abounded, they were compelled to subsist almost

exclusively upon salted meats. Nearly all the forest trees on the island

had been used in the construction of their houses, and they had

consequently but a meagre supply of fuel to resist the chilling winds and

penetrating frosts. For fresh water, their only reliance was upon melted

snow and ice. Their store-house had not been furnished with a cellar, and

the frost left nothing untouched; even cider was dispensed in solid blocks.

To crown the gloom and wretchedness of their situation, the colony was

visited with disease of a virulent and fatal character. As the malady was

beyond the knowledge, so it baffled the skill of the surgeons. They called

it _mal de la terre_. Of the seventy-nine persons, composing the whole

number of the colony, thirty-five died, and twenty others were brought to

the verge of the grave. In May, having been liberated from the baleful

influence of their winter prison and revived by the genial warmth of the

vernal sun and by the fresh meats obtained from the savages, the disease

abated, and the survivors gradually regained their strength.

Disheartened by the bitter experiences of the winter, the governor, having

fully determined to abandon his present establishment, ordered two boats to

be constructed, one of fifteen and the other of seven tons, in which to

transport his colony to Gaspé, in case he received no supplies from France,

with the hope of obtaining a passage home in some of the fishing vessels on

that coast. But from this disagreeable alternative he was happily relieved.

On the 15th of June, 1605, Pont Gravé arrived, to the great joy of the

little colony, with all needed supplies. The purpose of returning to France

was at once abandoned, and, as no time was to be lost, on the 18th of the

same month, De Monts, Champlain, several gentlemen, twenty sailors, two

Indians, Panounias and his wife, set sail for the purpose of discovering a

more eligible site for his colony somewhere on the shores of the present

New England. Passing slowly along the coast, with which Champlain was

already familiar, and consequently without extensive explorations, they at

length reached the waters of the Kennebec, [39] where the survey of the

previous year had terminated and that of the present was about to begin.

On the 5th of July, they entered the Kennebec, and, bearing to the right,

passed through Back River, [40] grazing their barque on the rocks in the

narrow channel, and then sweeping down round the southern point of

Jerremisquam Island, or Westport, they ascended along its eastern shores

till they came near the present site of Wiscasset, from whence they

returned on the western side of the island, through Monseag Bay, and

threading the narrow passage between Arrowsick and Woolwich, called the

Upper Hell-gate, and again entering the Kennebec, they finally reached

Merrymeeting Bay. Lingering here but a short time, they returned through

the Sagadahock, or lower Kennebec, to the mouth of the river.

This exploration did not yield to the voyagers any very interesting or

important results. Several friendly interviews were held with the savages

at different points along the route. Near the head waters of the Sheepscot,

probably in Wiscasset Bay, they had an interview, an interesting and joyous

meeting, with the chief Manthomerme and twenty-five or thirty followers,

with whom they exchanged tokens of friendship. Along the shores of the

Sheepscot their attention was attracted by several pleasant streams and

fine expanses of meadow; but the soil observed on this expedition

generally, and especially on the Sagadahock, [41] or lower Kennebec, was

rough and barren, and offered, in the judgment of De Monts and Champlain,

no eligible site for a new settlement.

Proceeding, therefore, on their voyage, they struck directly across Casco

Bay, not attempting, in their ignorance, to enter the fine harbor of

Portland.

On the 9th of July, they made the bay that stretches from Cape Elizabeth to

Fletcher's Neck, and anchored under the lee of Stratton Island, directly in

sight of Old Orchard Beach, now a famous watering place during the summer

months.

The savages having seen the little French barque approaching in the

distance, had built fires to attract its attention, and came down upon the

shore at Prout's Neck, formerly known as Black Point, in large numbers,

indicating their friendliness by lively demonstrations of joy. From this

anchorage, while awaiting the influx of the tide to enable them to pass

over the bar and enter a river which they saw flowing into the bay, De

Monts paid a visit to Richmond's Island, about four miles distant, which he

was greatly delighted, as he found it richly studded with oak and hickory,

whose bending branches were wreathed with luxuriant grapevines loaded with

green clusters of unripe fruit. In honor of the god of wine, they gave to

the island the classic name of Bacchus. [42] At full tide they passed over

the bar and cast anchor within the channel of the Saco.

The Indians whom they found here were called Almouchiquois, and differed in

many respects from any which they had seen before, from the Sourequois of

Nova Scotia and the Etechemins of the northern part of Maine and New

Brunswick. They spoke a different language, and, unlike their neighbors on

the east, did not subsist mainly by the chase, but upon the products of the

soil, supplemented by fish, which were plentiful and of excellent quality,

and which they took with facility about the mouth of the river. De Monts

and Champlain made an excursion upon the shore, where their eyes were

refreshed by fields of waving corn, and gardens of squashes, beans, and

pumpkins, which were then bursting into flower. [43] Here they saw in

cultivation the rank narcotic _petun_, or tobacco, [44] just beginning to

spread out its broad velvet leaves to the sun, the sole luxury of savage

life. The forests were thinly wooded, but were nevertheless rich in

primitive oak, in lofty ash and elm, and in the more humble and sturdy

beech. As on Richmond's Island so here, along the bank of the river they

found grapes in luxurious growth, from which the sailors busied themselves

in making verjuice, a delicious beverage in the meridian heats of a July

sun. The natives were gentle and amiable, graceful in figure, agile in

movement, and exhibited unusual taste, dressing their hair in a variety of

twists and braids, intertwined with ornamental feathers.

Champlain observed their method of cultivating Indian corn, which the

experience of two hundred and seventy-five years has in no essential point

improved or even changed. They planted three or four seeds in hills three

feet apart, and heaped the earth about them, and kept the soil clear of

weeds. Such is the method of the successful New England farmer to-day. The

experience of the savage had taught him how many individuals of the rank

plant could occupy prolifically a given area, how the soil must be gathered

about the roots to sustain the heavy stock, and that there must be no rival

near it to draw away the nutriment on which the voracious plant feeds and

grows. Civilization has invented implements to facilitate the processes of

culture, but the observation of the savage had led him to a knowledge of

all that is absolutely necessary to ensure a prolific harvest.

After lingering two days at Saco, our explorers proceeded on their voyage.

When they had advanced not more than twenty miles, driven by a fierce wind,

they were forced to cast anchor near the salt marshes of Wells. Having been

driven by Cape Porpoise, on the subsidence of the wind, they returned to

it, reconnoitred its harbor and adjacent islands, together with Little

River, a few miles still further to the east. The shores were lined all

along with nut-trees and grape-vines. The islands about Cape Porpoise were

matted all over with wild currants, so that the eye could scarcely discern

any thing else. Attracted doubtless by this fruit, clouds of wild pigeons

had assembled there, and were having a midsummer's festival, fearless of

the treacherous snare or the hunter's deadly aim. Large numbers of them

were taken, which added a coveted luxury to the not over-stocked larder of

the little French barque.

On the 15th of July, De Monts and his party left Cape Porpoise,

keeping in and following closely the sinuosities of the shore. They

saw no savages during the day, nor any evidences of any, except a

rising smoke, which they approached, but found to be a lone beacon,

without any surroundings of human life. Those who had kindled the fire

had doubtless concealed themselves, or had fled in dismay. Possibly

they had never seen a ship under sail. The fishermen who frequented

our northern coast rarely came into these waters, and the little craft

of our voyagers, moving without oars or any apparent human aid, seemed

doubtless to them a monster gliding upon the wings of the wind. At the

setting of the sun, they were near the flat and sandy coast, now known

as Wallace's Sands. They fought in vain for a roadstead where they

might anchor safely for the night. When they were opposite to Little

Boar's Head, with the Isles of Shoals directly east of them, and the

reflected rays of the sun were still throwing their light upon the

waters, they saw in the distance the dim outline of Cape Anne, whither

they directed their course, and, before morning, came to anchor near

its eastern extremity, in sixteen fathoms of water. Near them were the

three well-known islands at the apex of the cape, covered with

forest-trees, and the woodless cluster of rocks, now called the

Savages, a little further from the shore.

The next morning five or six Indians timidly approached them in a canoe,

and then retired and set up a dance on the shore, as a token of friendly

greeting. Armed with crayon and drawing-paper, Champlain was despatched to

seek from the natives some important geographical information. Dispensing

knives and biscuit as a friendly invitation, the savages gathered about

him, assured by their gifts, when he proceeded to impart to them their

first lesson in topographical drawing. He pictured to them the bay on the

north side of Cape Anne, which he had just traversed, and signifying to

them that he desired to know the course of the shore on the south, they

immediately gave him an example of their apt scholarship by drawing with

the same crayon an accurate outline of Massachusetts Bay, and finished up

Champlain's own sketch by introducing the Merrimac River, which, not having

been seen, owing to the presence of Plum Island, which stretches like a

curtain before its mouth, he had omitted to portray. The intelligent

natives volunteered a bit of history. By placing six pebbles at equal

distances, they intimated that Massachusetts Bay was occupied by six

tribes, and governed by as many chiefs. [45] He learned from them,

likewise, that the inhabitants of this region subsisted by agriculture, as

did those at the mouth of the Saco, and that they were very numerous.

Leaving Cape Anne on Saturday the 16th of July, De Monts entered

Massachusetts Bay, sailed into Boston harbor, and anchored on the western

side of Noddle's Island, now better known as East Boston. In passing into

the bay, they observed large patches of cleared land, and many fields of

waving corn both upon the islands and the mainland. The water and the

islands, the open fields and lofty forest-trees, presented fine contrasts,

and rendered the scenery attractive and beautiful. Here for the first time

Champlain observed the log canoe. It was a clumsy though serviceable boat

in still waters, nevertheless unstable and dangerous in unskilful hands.

They saw, issuing into the bay, a large river, coming from the west, which

they named River du Guast, in honor of Pierre du Guast, Sieur de Monts, the

patentee of La Cadie, and the patron and director of this expedition. This

was Charles River, seen, evidently just at its confluence with the Mystic.

[46]

On Sunday, the 17th of July, 1605, they left Boston harbor, threading their

way among the islands, passing leisurely along the south shore, rounding

Point Allerton on the peninsula of Nantasket, gliding along near Cohasset

and Scituate, and finally cast anchor at Brant Point, upon the southern

borders of Marshfield. When they left the harbor of Boston, the islands and

mainland were swarming with the native population. The Indians were,

naturally enough, intensely interested in this visit of the little French

barque. It may have been the first that had ever made its appearance in the

bay. Its size was many times greater than any water-craft of their own.

Spreading its white wings and gliding silently away without oarsmen, it

filled them with surprise and admiration. The whole population was astir.

The cornfields and fishing stations were deserted. Every canoe was manned,

and a flotilla of their tiny craft came to attend, honor, and speed the

parting guests, experiencing, doubtless, a sense of relief that they were

going, and filled with a painful curiosity to know the meaning of this

mysterious visit.

Having passed the night at Brant Point, they had not advanced more than two

leagues along a sandy shore dotted with wigwams and gardens, when they were

forced to enter a small harbor, to await a more favoring wind. The Indians

flocked about them, greeted them with cordiality, and invited them to enter

the little river which flows into the harbor, but this they were unable to

do, as the tide was low and the depth insufficient. Champlain's attention

was attracted by several canoes in the bay, which had just completed their

morning's work in fishing for cod. The fish were taken with a primitive

hook and line, apparently in a manner not very different from that of the

present day. The line was made of a filament of bark stripped from the

trunk of a tree; the hook was of wood, having a sharp bone, forming a barb,

lashed to it with a cord of a grassy fibre, a kind of wild hemp, growing

spontaneously in that region. Champlain landed, distributed trinkets among

the natives, examined and sketched an outline of the place, which

identifies it as Plymouth harbor, which captain John Smith visited in 1614,

and where the May Flower, still six years later landed the first permanent

colony planted upon New England soil.

After a day at Plymouth, the little bark weighed anchor, swept down Cape

Cod, approaching near to the reefs of Billingsgate, describing a complete

semicircle, and finally, with some difficulty, doubled the cape whose white

sands they had seen in the distance glittering in the sunlight and which

appropriately they named _Cap Blanc_. This cape, however, had been visited

three years before by Bartholomew Gosnold, and named Cape Cod, which

appellation it has retained to the present time. Passing down on the

outside of the cape some distance, they came to anchor, sent explorers on

the shore, who ascending on of the lofty sand-banks [47] which may still be

seen there silently resisting the winds and waves, discovered further to

the south, what is now known as Nauset harbor, entirely surrounded by

Indian cabins. The next day, the 20th of July, 1605, they effected an

entrance without much difficulty. The bay was spacious, being nine or ten

miles in circumference. Along the borders, there were, here and there,

cultivated patches, interspersed with dwellings of the natives. The wigwam

was cone-shaped, heavily thatched with reeds, having an orifice at the apex

for the emission of smoke. In the fields were growing Indian corn,

Brazilian beans, pumpkins, radishes, and tobacco; and in the woods were oak

and hickory and red cedar. During their stay in the harbor they encountered

an easterly storm, which continued four days, so raw and chilling that they

were glad to hug their winter cloaks about them on the 22d of July. The

natives were friendly and cordial, and entered freely into conversation

with Champlain; but, as the language of each party was not understood by

the other, the information he obtained from them was mostly by signs, and

consequently too general to be historically interesting or important.

The first and only act of hostility by the natives which De Monts and his

party had thus far experienced in their explorations on the entire coast

occurred in this harbor. Several of the men had gone ashore to obtain fresh

water. Some of the Indians conceived an uncontrollable desire to capture

the copper vessels which they saw in their hands. While one of the men was

stooping to dip water from a spring, one of the savages darted upon him and

snatched the coveted vessel from his hand. An encounter followed, and, amid

showers of arrows and blows, the poor sailor was brutally murdered. The

victorious Indian, fleet as the reindeer, escaped with his companions,

bearing his prize with him into the depths of the forest. The natives on

the shore, who had hitherto shown the greatest friendliness, soon came to

De Monts, and by signs disowned any participation in the act, and assured

him that the guilty parties belonged far in the interior. Whether this was

the truth or a piece of adroit diplomacy, it was nevertheless accepted by

De Monts, since punishment could only be administered at the risk of

causing the innocent to suffer instead of the guilty.

The young sailor whose earthly career was thus suddenly terminated, whose

name even has not come down to us, was doubtless the first European, if we

except Thorvald, the Northman, whose mortal remains slumber in the soil of

Massachusetts.

As this voyage of discovery had been planned and provisioned for only six

weeks, and more than five had already elapsed, on the 25th of July De Monts

and his party left Nauset harbor, to join the colony still lingering at St.

Croix. In passing the bar, they came near being wrecked, and consequently

gave to the harbor the significant appellation of _Port de Mallebarre_, a

name which has not been lost, but nevertheless, like the shifting sands of

that region, has floated away from its original moorings, and now adheres

to the sandy cape of Monomoy.

On their return voyage, they made a brief stop at Saco, and likewise at the

mouth of the Kennebec. At the latter point they had an interview with the

sachem, Anassou, who informed them that a ship had been there, and that the

men on board her had seized, under color of friendship, and killed five

savages belonging to that river. From the description given by Anassou,

Champlain was convinced that the ship was English, and subsequent events

render it quite certain that it was the "Archangel," fitted out by the Earl

of Southampton and Lord Arundel of Wardour, and commanded by Captain George

Weymouth. The design of the expedition was to fix upon an eligible site for

a colonial plantation, and, in pursuance of this purpose, Weymouth anchored

off Monhegan on the 28th of May, 1605, _new style_, and, after spending a

month in explorations of the region contiguous, left for England on the

26th of June. [48] He had seized and carried away five of the natives,

having concealed them in the hold of his ship, and Anassou, under the

circumstances, naturally supposed they had been killed. The statement of

the sachem, that the natives captured belonged to the river where Champlain

then was, namely, the Kennebec, goes far to prove that Weymouth's

explorations were in the Kennebec, or at least in the network of waters

then comprehended under that appellation, and not in the Penobscot or in

any other river farther east, as some historical writers have supposed.

It would appear that while the French were carefully surveying the coasts

of New England, in order to fix upon an eligible site for a permanent

colonial settlement, the English were likewise upon the ground, engaged in

a similar investigation for the same purpose. From this period onward, for

more than a century and a half, there was a perpetual conflict and struggle

for territorial possession on the northern coast of America, between these

two great nations, sometimes active and violent, and at others subsiding

into a semi-slumber, but never ceasing until every acre of soil belonging

to the French had been transferred to the English by a solemn international

compact.

On this exploration, Champlain noticed along the coast from Kennebec to

Cape Cod, and described several objects in natural history unknown in

Europe, such as the horse-foot crab, [49] the black skimmer, and the wild

turkey, the latter two of which have long since ceased to visit this

region.

ENDNOTES:

34. _De Monts's Island_. Of this island Champlain says: "This place was

named by Sieur De Monts the Island of St. Croix."--_Vide_ Vol. II. p.

32, note 86. St. Croix has now for a long time been applied as the name

of the river in which this island is found. The French denominated this

stream the River of the Etechemins, after the name of the tribe of

savages inhabiting its shores. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 31. It continued to

be so called for a long time. Denys speaks of it under this name in

1672. "Depuis la riviere de Pentagouet, jusques à celle de saint Jean,

il pent y avoir quarante à quarante cinq lieues; la première rivière

que l'on rencontre le long de la coste, est celle des Etechemins, qui

porte le nom du pays, depuis Baston jusques au Port royal, dont les

Sauvages qui habitent toute cette étendue, portent aussi le mesme

nom."--_Description Géographique et Historique des Costes de L'Amerique

Septentrionale_, par Nicholas Denys, Paris, 1672, p. 29, _et verso_.

35. Champlain had, by his own explorations and by consulting the Indians,

obtained a very full and accurate knowledge of this island at his first

visit, on the 5th of September, 1604, when he named it _Monts-déserts_,

which we preserve in the English form, MOUNT DESERT. He observed that

the distance across the channel to the mainland on the north side was

less than a hundred paces. The rocky and barren summits of this cluster

of little mountains obviously induced him to give to the island its

appropriate and descriptive name _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 39. Dr. Edward

Ballard derives the Indian name of this island, _Pemetiq_, from

_pemé'te_, sloping, and _ki_, land. He adds that it probably denoted a

single locality which was taken by Biard's company as the name of the

whole island. _Vide Report of U. S. Coast Survey_ for 1868, p. 253.

36. Penobscot is a corruption of the Abnaki _pa'na8a'bskek_. A nearly exact

translation is "at the fall of the rock," or "at the descending rock."

_Vide Trumball's Ind. Geog. Names_, Collections Conn. His. Society,

Vol. II. p. 19. This name was originally given probably to some part of

the river to which its meaning was particularly applicable. This may

have been at the mouth of the river a Fort Point, a rocky elevation not

less than eighty feet in height. Or it may have been the "fall of water

coming down a slope of seven or eight feet," as Champlain expresses it,

a short distance above the site of the present city of Bangor. That

this name was first obtained by those who only visited the mouth of the

river would seem to favor the former supposition.

37. Dr. Edward Ballard supposes the original name of this stream,

_Kadesquit_, to be derived from _kaht_, a Micmac word, for _eel_,

denoting _eel stream_, now corrupted into _Kenduskeag_. The present

site of the city of Bangor is where Biard intended to establish his

mission in 1613, but he was finally induced to fix it at Mount

Desert--_Vide Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed., Vol. I. p. 44.

38. The other gentlemen whose names we have learned were Messieurs

d'Orville, Champdoré, Beaumont, la Motte Bourioli, Fougeray or Foulgeré

de Vitré, Genestou, Sourin, and Boulay. The orthography of the names,

as they are mentioned from time to time, is various.

39. _Kennebec_. Biard, in the _Relation, de la Nouvelle France, Relations

des Jésuites_, Quebec ed., Vol. I. p. 35, writes it _Quinitequi_, and

Champlain writes it _Quinibequy_ and _Quinebequi_; hence Mr. Trumball

infers that it is probably equivalent in meaning to _quin-ni-pi-ohke_,

meaning "long water place," derived from the Abnaki, _K8

né-be-ki_.--_Vide Ind. Geog. Names_, Col. Conn. His. Soc. Vol. II. p.

15.

40. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 110.

41. _Sagadahock_. This name is particularly applied to the lower part of

the Kennebec. It is from the Abnaki, _sa'ghede'aki_, "land at the

mouth."--_Vide Indian Geographical Names_, by J. H. Trumball, Col.

Conn. His. Society, Vol. II. p. 30. Dr. Edward Ballard derives it from

_sanktai-i-wi_, to finish, and _onk_, a locative, "the finishing

place," which means the mouth of a river.--_Vide Report of U. S. Coast

Survey_, 1868, p. 258.

42. _Bacchus Island_. This was Richmond's Island, as we have stated in Vol.

II. note 123. It will be admitted that the Bacchus Island of Champlain

was either Richmond's Island or one of those in the bay of the Saco.

Champlain does not give a specific name to any of the islands in the

bay, as may be seen by referring to the explanations of his map of the

bay, Vol. II p. 65. If one of them had been Bacchus Island, he would

not have failed to refer to it, according to his uniform custom, under

that name. Hence it is certain that his Bacchus Island was not one of

those figured on his local map of the bay of the Saco. By reference to

the large map of 1632, it will be seen that Bacchus Island is

represented by the number 50, which is placed over against the largest

island in the neighborhood and that farthest to the east, which, of

course, must be Richmond's Island. It is, however, proper to state that

these reference figures are not in general so carefully placed as to

enable us to rely upon them in fixing a locality, particularly if

unsupported by other evidence. But in this case other evidence is not

wanting.

43. _Vide_ Vol. II. pp. 64-67.

44. _Nicotiana rustica. Vide_, Vol. II. by Charles Pickering, M.D. Boston,

note 130. _Chronological His. Plants_, 1879, p. 741, _et passim_.

45. Daniel Gookin, who wrote in 1674, speaks of the following subdivisions

among the Massachusetts Indians: "Their chief sachem held dominion over

many other petty governours; as those of Weechagafkas, Neponsitt,

Punkapaog, Nonantam, Nashaway, and some of the Nipmuck people."--_Vide

Gookin's His. Col._

46. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 159. _Mushauiwomuk_, which we have converted into

_Shawmut, means_, "where there is going-by-boat." The French, if they

heard the name and learned its meaning, could hardly have failed to see

the appropriateness of it as applied by the aborigines to Boston

harbor.--_Vide Trumball_ in Connecticut Historical Society's

Collections, Vol. II. p. 5.

47. It was probably on this very bluff from which was seen Nauset harbor on

the 19th of July, 1605, and after the lapse of two hundred and seventy

four years, on the 17th of November, 1879 the citizens of the United

States, with the flags of America, France, and England gracefully

waving over their heads, addressed their congratulations by telegraph

to the citizens of France at Brest on the communication between the two

countries that day completed through submarine wires under the auspices

of the "Compagnie Française du Télégraph de Paris à New York."

48. _Vide_ Vol. II. p 91, note 176.

49. The Horsefoot-crab, _Limulus polyphemus_. Champlain gives the Indian

name, _siguenoc_. Hariot saw, while at Roanoke Island, in 1585, and

described the same crustacean under the name of _seekanauk_. The Indian

word is obviously the same, the differing French and English

orthography representing the same sound. It thus appears that this

shell-fish was at that time known by the aborigines under the same name

for at least a thousand miles along the Atlantic coast, from the

Kennebec, in Maine, to Roanoke Island, in North Carolina. _Vide

Hariot's Briefe and True Report of the New Found Land of Virginia_,

Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 334. See also Vol. II. of this work, notes 171,

172, 173, for some account of the black skimmer and the wild turkey.

CHAPTER IV.

ARRIVAL OF SUPPLIES AND REMOVAL TO PORT ROYAL.--DE MONTS RETURNS TO

FRANCE.--SEARCH FOR MINES.--WINTER.--SCURVY.--LATE ARRIVAL OF SUPPLIES AND

EXPLORATIONS ON THE COAST OF MASSACHUSETTS.--GLOCESTER HARBOR, STAY AT

CHATHAM AND ATTACK OF THE SAVAGES.--WOOD'S HOLL.--RETURN TO ANNAPOLIS

BASIN.

On the 8th of August, the exploring party reached St. Croix. During their

absence, Pont Gravé had arrived from France with additional men and

provisions for the colony. As no satisfactory site had been found by De

Monts in his recent tour along the coast, it was determined to remove the

colony temporarily to Port Royal, situated within the bay now known as

Annapolis Basin. The buildings at St. Croix, with the exception of the

store-house, were taken down and transported to the bay. Champlain and Pont

Gravé were sent forward to select a place for the settlement, which was

fixed on the north side of the basin, directly opposite to Goat Island,

near or upon the present site of Lower Granville. the situation was

protected from the piercing and dreaded winds of the northwest by a lofty

range of hills, [50] while it was elevated and commanded a charming view of

the placid bay in front. The dwellings which they erected were arranged in

the form of a quadrangle with an open court in the centre, as at St. Croix,

while gardens and pleasure-grounds were laid out by Champlain in the

immediate vicinity.

When the work of the new settlement was well advanced, De Monts, having

appointed Pont Gravé as his lieutenant, departed for France, where he hoped

to obtain additional privileges from the government in his enterprise of

planting a colony in the New World. Champlain preferred to remain, with the

purpose of executing more fully his office as geographer to the king, by

making discoveries on the Atlantic coast still further to the south.

From the beginning, the patentee had cherished the desire of discovering

valuable mines somewhere on his domains, whose wealth, as well as that of

the fur-trade, might defray some part of the heavy expenses involved in his

colonial enterprise. While several investigations for this purpose had

proved abortive, it was hoped that greater success would be attained by

searches along the upper part of the Bay of Fundy. Before the approach of

winter, therefore, Champlain and the miner, Master Jaques, a Sclavonian,

made a tour to St. John, where they obtained the services of the Indian

chief, Secondon, to accompany them and point out the place where copper ore

had been discovered at the Bay of Mines. The search, thorough as was

practicable under the circumstances, was, in the main, unsuccessful; the

few specimens which they found were meagre and insignificant.

The winter at Port Royal was by no means so severe as the preceding one at

St. Croix. The Indians brought in wild game from the forests. The colony

had no want of fuel and pure water. But experience, bitter as it had been,

did not yield to them the fruit of practical wisdom. They referred their

sufferings to the climate, but took too little pains to protect themselves

against its rugged power. Their dwellings, hastily thrown together, were

cold and damp, arising from the green, unseasoned wood of which they were

doubtless in part constructed, and from the standing rainwater with which

their foundations were at all times inundated, which was neither diverted

by embankments nor drawn away by drainage. The dreaded _mal de la terre_,

or scurvy, as might have been anticipated, made its appearance in the early

part of the season, causing the death of twelve out of the forty-five

comprising their whole number, while others were prostrated by this

painful, repulsive, and depressing disease.

The purpose of making further discoveries on the southern coast, warmly

cherished by Champlain, and entering fully into the plans of De Monts, had

not been forgotten. Three times during the early part of the summer they

had equipped their barque, made up their party, and left Port Royal for

this undertaking, and as many times had been driven back by the violence of

the winds and the waves.

In the mean time, the supplies which had been promised and expected from

France had not arrived. This naturally gave to Pont Gravé, the lieutenant,

great anxiety, as without them it was clearly inexpedient to venture upon

another winter in the wilds of La Cadie. It had been stipulated by De

Monts, the patentee, that if succors did not arrive before the middle of

July, Pont Gravé should make arrangements for the return of the colony by

the fishing vessels to be found at the Grand Banks. Accordingly, on the

17th of that month, Pont Gravé set sail with the little colony in two

barques, and proceeded towards Cape Breton, to seek a passage home. But De

Monts had not been remiss in his duty. He had, after many difficulties and

delays, despatched a vessel of a hundred and fifty tons, called the

"Jonas," with fifty men and ample provisions for the approaching winter.

While Pont Gravé with his two barques and his retreating colony had run

into Yarmouth Bay for repairs, the "Jonas" passed him unobserved, and

anchored in the basin before the deserted settlement of Port Royal. An

advice-boat had, however, been wisely despatched by the "Jonas" to

reconnoitre the inlets along the shore, which fortunately intercepted the

departing colony near Cape Sable, and, elated with fresh news from home,

they joyfully returned to the quarters they had so recently abandoned.

In addition to a considerable number of artisans and laborers for the

colony, the "Jonas" had brought out Sieur De Poutrincourt, to remain as

lieutenant of La Cadie, and likewise Marc Lescarbot, a young attorney of

Paris, who had already made some scholarly attainments, and who

subsequently distinguished himself as an author, especially by the

publication of a history of New France.

De Poutrincourt immediately addressed himself to putting all things in

order at Port Royal, where it was obviously expedient for the colony to

remain, at least for the winter. As soon as the "Jonas" had been unladen,

Pont Gravé and most of those who had shared his recent hardships, departed

in her for the shores of France. When the tenements had been cleansed,

refitted, and refurnished, and their provisions had been safely stored, De

Poutrincourt, by way of experiment, to test the character of the climate

and the capability of the soil, despatched a squad of gardeners and farmers

five miles up the river, to the grounds now occupied by the village of

Annapolis, [51] where the soil was open, clear of forest trees, and easy of

cultivation. They planted a great variety of seeds, wheat, rye, hemp, flax,

and of garden esculents, which grew with extraordinary luxuriance, but, as

the season was too late for any of them to ripen, the experiment failed

either as a test of the soil or the climate.

On a former visit in 1604, De Poutrincourt had conceived a great admiration

for Annapolis basin, its protected situation, its fine scenery, and its

rich soil. He had a strong desire to bring his family there and make it his

permanent abode. With this design, he had requested and received from De

Monts a personal grant of this region, which had also been confirmed to him

[52] by Henry IV. But De Monts wished to plant his La Cadian colony in a

milder and more genial climate. He had therefore enjoined upon De

Poutrincourt, as his lieutenant, on leaving France, to continue the

explorations for the selection of a site still farther to the south.

Accordingly, on the 5th of September, 1606, De Poutrincourt left Annapolis

Basin, which the French called Port Royal, in a barque of eighteen tons, to

fulfil this injunction.

It was Champlain's opinion that they ought to sail directly for Nauset

harbor, on Cape Cod, and commence their explorations where their search had

terminated the preceding year, and thus advance into a new region, which

had not already been surveyed. But other counsels prevailed, and a large

part of the time which could be spared for this investigation was exhausted

before they reached the harbor of Nauset. They made a brief visit to the

island of St. Croix, in which De Monts had wintered in 1604-5, touched also

at Saco, where the Indians had already completed their harvest, and the

grapes at Bacchus Island were ripe and luscious. Thence sailing directly to

Cape Anne, where, finding no safe roadstead, they passed round to

Gloucester harbor, which they found spacious, well protected, with good

depth of water, and which, for its great excellence and attractive scenery,

they named _Beauport_, or the beautiful harbor. Here they remained several

days. It was a native settlement, comprising two hundred savages, who were

cultivators of the soil, which was prolific in corn, beans, melons,

pumpkins, tobacco, and grapes. The harbor was environed with fine forest

trees, as hickory, oak, ash, cypress, and sassafras. Within the town there

were several patches of cultivated land, which the Indians were gradually

augmenting by felling the trees, burning the wood, and after a few years,

aided by the natural process of decay, eradicating the stumps. The French

were kindly received and entertained with generous hospitality. Grapes just

gathered from the vines, and squashes of several varieties, the trailing

bean still well known in New England, and the Jerusalem artichoke crisp

from the unexhausted soil, were presented as offerings of welcome to their

guests. While these gifts were doubtless tokens of a genuine friendliness

so far as the savages were capable of that virtue, the lurking spirit of

deceit and treachery which had been inherited and fostered by their habits

and mode of life, could not be restrained.

The French barque was lying at anchor a short distance northeast of Ten

Pound Island. Its boat was undergoing repairs on a peninsula near by, now

known as Rocky Neck, and the sailors were washing their linen just at the

point where the peninsula is united to the mainland. While Champlain was

walking on this causeway, he observed about fifty savages, completely

armed, cautiously screening themselves behind a clump of bushes on the edge

of Smith's Cove. As soon as they were aware that they were seen, they came

forth, concealing their weapons as much as possible, and began to dance in

token of a friendly greeting. But when they discovered De Poutrincourt in

the wood near by, who had approached unobserved, with eight armed

musketeers to disperse them in case of an attack, they immediately took to

flight, and, scattering in all directions, made no further hostile

demonstrations. [53] This serio-comic incident did not interfere with the

interchange of friendly offices between the two parties, and when the

voyagers were about to leave, the savages urged them with great earnestness

to remain longer, assuring them that two thousand of their friends would

pay them a visit the very next day. This invitation was, however, not

heeded. In Champlain's opinion it was a _ruse_ contrived only to furnish a

fresh opportunity to attack and overpower them.

On the 30th of September, they left the harbor of Gloucester, and, during

the following night, sailing in a southerly direction, passing Brant Point,

they found themselves in the lower part of Cape Cod Bay. When the sun rose,

a low, sandy shore stretched before them. Sending their boat forward to a

place where the shore seemed more elevated, they found deeper water and a

harbor, into which they entered in five or six fathoms. They were welcomed

by three Indian canoes. They found oysters in such quantities in this bay,

and of such excellent quality, that they named it _Le Port aux Huistres_,

[54] or Oyster Harbor. After a few hours, they weighed anchor, and

directing their course north, a quarter northeast, with a favoring wind,

soon doubled Cape Cod. The next day, the 2d of October, they arrived off

Nauset. De Poutrincourt, Champlain, and others entered the harbor in a

small boat, where they were greeted by a hundred and fifty savages with

singing and dancing, according to their usual custom. After a brief visit,

they returned to the barque and continued their course along the sandy

shore. When near the heel of the cape, off Chatham, they found themselves

imperilled among breakers and sand-banks, so dangerous as to render it

inexpedient to attempt to land, even with a small boat. The savages were

observing them from the shore, and soon manned a canoe, and came to them

with singing and demonstrations of joy. From them, they learned that lower

down a harbor would be found, where their barque might ride in safety.

Proceeding, therefore, in the same direction, after many difficulties, they

succeeded in rounding the peninsula of Monomoy, and finally, in the gray of

the evening, cast anchor in the offing near Chatham, now known as Old Stage

Harbor. The next day they entered, passing between Harding's Beach Point

and Morris Island, in two fathoms of water, and anchored in Stage Harbor.

This harbor is about a mile long and half a mile wide, and at its western

extremity is connected by tide-water with Oyster Pond, and with Mill Cove

on the east by Mitchell's River. Mooring their barque between these two

arms of the harbor, towards the westerly end, the explorers remained there

about three weeks. It was the centre of an Indian settlement, containing

five or six hundred persons. Although it was now well into October, the

natives of both sexes were entirely naked, with the exception of a slight

band about the loins. They subsisted upon fish and the products of the

soil. Indian corn was their staple. It was secured in the autumn in bags

made of braided grass, and buried in the sand-banks, and withdrawn as it

was needed during the winter. The savages were of fine figure and of olive

complexion. They adorned themselves with an embroidery skilfully interwoven

with feathers and beads, and dressed their hair in a variety of braids,

like those at Saco. Their dwellings were conical in shape, covered with

thatch of rushes and corn-husks, and surrounded by cultivated fields. Each

cabin contained one or two beds, a kind of matting, two or three inches in

thickness, spread upon a platform on which was a layer of elastic staves,

and the whole raised a foot from the ground. On these they secured

refreshing repose. Their chiefs neither exercised nor claimed any superior

authority, except in time of war. At all other times and in all other

matters complete equality reigned throughout the tribe.

The stay at Chatham was necessarily prolonged in baking bread to serve the

remainder of the voyage, and in repairing their barque, whose rudder had

been badly shattered in the rough passage round the cape. For these

purposes, a bakery and a forge were set up on shore, and a tent pitched for

the convenience and protection of the workmen. While these works were in

progress, De Poutrincourt, Champlain, and others made frequent excursions

into the interior, always with a guard of armed men, sometimes making a

circuit of twelve or fifteen miles. The explorers were fascinated with all

they saw. The aroma of the autumnal forest and the balmy air of October

stimulated their senses. The nut-trees were loaded with ripe fruit, and the

rich clusters of grapes were hanging temptingly upon the vines. Wild game

was plentiful and delicious. The fish of the bay were sweet, delicate, and

of many varieties. Nature, unaided by art, had thus supplied so many human

wants that Champlain gravely put upon record his opinion that this would be

a most excellent place in which to lay the foundations of a commonwealth,

if the harbor were deeper and better protected at its mouth.

After the voyagers had been in Chatham eight or nine days, the Indians,

tempted by the implements which they saw about the forge and bakery,

conceived the idea of taking forcible possession of them, in order to

appropriate them to their own use. As a preparation for this, and

particularly to put themselves in a favorable condition in case of an

attack or reprisal, they were seen removing their women, children, and

effects into the forests, and even taking down their cabins. De

Poutrincourt, observing this, gave orders to the workmen to pass their

nights no longer on shore, but to go on board the barque to assure their

personal safety. This command, however, was not obeyed. The next morning,

at break of day, four hundred savages, creeping softly over a hill in the

rear, surrounded the tent, and poured such a volley of arrows upon the

defenceless workmen that escape was impossible. Three of them were killed

upon the spot; a fourth was mortally and a fifth badly wounded. The alarm

was given by the sentinel on the barque. De Poutrincourt, Champlain, and

the rest, aroused from their slumbers, rushed half-clad into the ship's

boat, and hastened to the rescue. As soon as they touched the shore, the

savages, fleet as the greyhound, escaped to the wood. Pursuit, under the

circumstances, was not to be made; and, if it had been, would have ended in

their utter destruction. Freed from immediate danger, they collected the

dead and gave them Christian burial near the foot of a cross, which had

been erected the day before. While the service of prayer and song was

offered, the savages in the distance mocked them with derisive attitudes

and hideous howls. Three hours after the French had retired to their

barque, the miscreants returned, tore down the cross, disinterred the dead,

and carried off the garments in which they had been laid to rest. They were

immediately driven off by the French, the cross was restored to its place,

and the dead reinterred.

Before leaving Chatham, some anxiety was felt in regard to their safety in

leaving the harbor, as the little barque had scarcely been able to weather

the rough seas of Monomoy on their inward voyage. A boat had been sent out

in search of a safer and a better roadway, which, creeping along by the

shore sixteen or eighteen miles, returned, announcing three fathoms of

water, and neither bars nor reefs. On the 16th of October they gave their

canvas to the breeze, and sailed out of Stage Harbor, which they had named

_Port Fortuné_, [55] an appellation probably suggested by their narrow

escape in entering and by the bloody tragedy to which we have just

referred. Having gone eighteen or twenty miles, they sighted the island of

Martha's Vineyard lying low in the distance before them, which they called

_La Soupçonneuse_, the suspicious one, as they had several times been in

doubt whether it were not a part of the mainland. A contrary wind forced

them to return to their anchorage in Stage Harbor. On the 20th they set out

again, and continued their course in a southwesterly direction until they

reached the entrance of Vineyard Sound. The rapid current of tide water

flowing from Buzzard's Bay into the sound through the rocky channel between

Nonamesset and Wood's Holl, they took to be a river coming from the

mainland, and named it _Rivière de Champlain_.

This point, in front of Wood's Holl, is the southern limit of the French

explorations on the coast of New England, reached by them on the 20th of

October, 1606.

Encountering a strong wind, approaching a gale, they were again forced to

return to Stage Harbor, where they lingered two or three days, awaiting

favoring winds for their return to the colony at the bay of Annapolis.

We regret to add that, while they were thus detained, under the very shadow

of the cross they had recently erected, the emblem of a faith that teaches

love and forgiveness, they decoyed, under the guise of friendship, several

of the poor savages into their power, and inhumanly butchered them in cold

blood. This deed was perpetrated on the base principle of _lex talionis_,

and yet they did not know, much less were they able to prove, that their

victims were guilty or took any part in the late affray. No form of trial

was observed, no witnesses testified, and no judge adjudicated. It was a

simple murder, for which we are sure any Christian's cheek would mantle

with shame who should offer for it any defence or apology.

When this piece of barbarity had been completed, the little French barque

made its final exit from Stage Harbor, passed successfully round the shoals

of Monomoy, and anchored near Nauset, where they remained a day or two,

leaving on the 28th of October, and sailing directly to Isle Haute in

Penobscot Bay. They made brief stops at some of the islands at the mouth of

the St. Croix, and at the Grand Manan, and arrived at Annapolis Basin on

the 14th of November, after an exceedingly rough passage and many

hair-breadth escapes.

ENDNOTES:

50. On Lescarbot's map of 1609, this elevation is denominated _Mont de la

Roque_. _Vide_ also Vol. II. note 180.

51. Lescarbot locates Poutrincourt's fort on the same spot which he called

_Manefort_, the site of the present village of Annapolis.

52. "Doncques l'an 1607, tous les François estans reuenus (ainsi qu'a esté

dict) le Sieur de Potrincourt présenta à feu d'immortelle memorie Henry

le Grand la donnation à luy faicte par le sieur de Monts, requérant

humblement Sa Majesté de la ratifier. Le Roy eut pour agréable la dicte

Requeste," &c. _Relations des Jésuites_, 1611, Quebec ed., Vol. I. p.

25. _Vide_ Vol. II. of this work, p 37.

53. This scene is well represented on Champlain's map of _Beauport_ or

Gloucester Harbor. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 114.

54. _Le Port aux Huistres_, Barnstable Harbor. _Vide_ Vol. II. Note 208.

55. _Port Fortuné_ In giving this name there was doubtless an allusion to

the goddess FORTUNA of the ancients, whose office it was to dispense

riches and poverty, pleasures and pains, blessings and calamities. They

had experienced good and evil at her fickle hand. They had entered the

harbor in peril and fear, but nevertheless in safety. They had suffered

by the attack of the savages, but fortunately had escaped utter

annihilation, which they might well have feared. It had been to them

eminently the port of hazard or chance. _Vide_ Vol. II Note 231 _La

Soupçonneuse_. _Vide_ Vol. II, Note 227.

CHAPTER V.

RECEPTION OF THE EXPLORERS AT ANNAPOLIS BASIN.--A DREARY WINTER RELIEVED BY

THE ORDER OF BON TEMPS.--NEWS FROM FRANCE.--BIRTH OF A PRINCE.--RUIN OF DE

MONTS'S COMPANY--TWO EXCURSIONS AND DEPARTURE FOR FRANCE.--CHAMPLAIN'S

EXPLORATIONS COMPARED.--DE MONTS'S NEW CHARTER FOR ONE YEAR AND CHAMPLAIN'S

RETURN IN 1608 TO NEW FRANCE AND THE FOUNDING OF QUEBEC.--CONSPIRACY OF DU

VAL AND HIS EXECUTION.

With the voyage which we have described in the last chapter, Champlain

terminated his explorations on the coast of New England. He never afterward

stepped upon her soil. But he has left us, nevertheless, an invaluable

record of the character, manners, and customs of the aborigines as he saw

them all along from the eastern borders of Maine to the Vineyard Sound, and

carefully studied them during the period of three consecutive years. Of the

value of these explorations we need not here speak at length. We shall

refer to them again in the sequel.

The return of the explorers was hailed with joy by the colonists at

Annapolis Basin. To give _éclat_ to the occasion, Lescarbot composed a poem

in French, which he recited at the head of a procession which marched with

gay representations to the water's edge, to receive their returning

friends. Over the gateway of the quadrangle formed by their dwellings,

dignified by them as their fort, were the arms of France, wreathed in

laurel, together with the motto of the king.--

DVO PROTEGIT VNVS.

Under this, the arms of De Monts were displayed, overlaid with evergreen,

and bearing the following inscription:--

DABIT DEVS HIS QVOQVE FINEM.

Then came the arms of Poutrincourt, crowned also with garlands, and

inscribed:--

IN VIA VIRTVTI NVLLA EST VIA.

When the excitement of the return had passed, the little settlement

subsided into its usual routine. The leisure of the winter was devoted to

various objects bearing upon the future prosperity of the colony. Among

others, a corn mill was erected at a fall on Allen River, four or five

miles from the settlement, a little east of the present site of Annapolis.

A road was commenced through the forest leading from Lower Granville

towards the mouth of the bay. Two small barques were built, to be in

readiness in anticipation of a failure to receive succors the next summer,

and new buildings were erected for the accommodation of a larger number of

colonists. Still, there was much unoccupied time, and, shut out as they

were from the usual associations of civilized life, it was hardly possible

that the winter should not seem long and dreary, especially to the

gentlemen.

To break up the monotony and add variety to the dull routine of their life,

Champlain contrived what he called L'ORDRE DE BON TEMPS, or The Rule of

Mirth, which was introduced and carried out with spirit and success. The

fifteen gentlemen who sat at the table of De Poutrincourt, the governor,

comprising the whole number of the order, took turns in performing the

duties of steward and caterer, each holding the office for a single day.

With a laudable ambition, the Grand Master for the time being laid the

forest and the sea under contribution, and the table was constantly

furnished with the most delicate and well seasoned game, and the sweetest

as well as the choicest varieties of fish. The frequent change of office

and the ingenuity displayed, offered at every repast, either in the viands

or mode of cooking, something new and tempting to the appetite. At each

meal, a ceremony becoming the dignity of the order was strictly observed.

At a given signal, the whole company marched into the dining-hall, the

Grand Master at the head, with his napkin over his shoulder, his staff of

office in his hand, and the glittering collar of the order about his neck,

while the other members bore each in his hand a dish loaded and smoking

with some part of the delicious repast. A ceremony of a somewhat similar

character was observed at the bringing in of the fruit. At the close of the

day, when the last meal had been served, and grace had been said, the

master formally completed his official duty by placing the collar of the

order upon the neck of his successor, at the same time presenting to him a

cup of wine, in which the two drank to each other's health and happiness.

These ceremonies were generally witnessed by thirty or forty savages, men,

women, boys, and girls, who gazed in respectful admiration, not to say awe,

upon this exhibition of European civilization. When Membertou, [56] the

venerable chief of the tribe, or other sagamores were present, they were

invited to a seat at the table, while bread was gratuitously distributed to

the rest.

When the winter had passed, which proved to be an exceedingly mild one, all

was astir in the little colony. The preparation of the soil, both in the

gardens and in the larger fields, for the spring sowing, created an

agreeable excitement and healthy activity.

On the 24th May, in the midst of these agricultural enterprises, a boat

arrived in the bay, in charge of a young man from St. Malo, named

Chevalier, who had come out in command of the "Jonas," which he had left at

Canseau engaged in fishing for the purpose of making up a return cargo of

that commodity. Chevalier brought two items of intelligence of great

interest to the colonists, but differing widely in their character. The one

was the birth of a French prince, the Duke of Orleans; the other, that the

company of De Monts had been broken up, his monopoly of the fur-trade

withdrawn, and his colony ordered to return to France. The birth of a

prince demanded expressions of joy, and the event was loyally celebrated by

bonfires and a _Te Deum_. It was, however, giving a song when they would

gladly have hung their harps upon the willows.

While the scheme of De Monts's colonial enterprise was defective,

containing in itself a principle which must sooner or later work its ruin,

the disappointment occasioned by its sudden termination was none the less

painful and humiliating. The monopoly on which it was based could only be

maintained by a degree of severity and apparent injustice, which always

creates enemies and engenders strife. The seizure and confiscation of

several ships with their valuable cargoes on the shores of Nova Scotia, had

awakened a personal hostility in influential circles in France, and the

sufferers were able, in turn, to strike back a damaging blow upon the

author of their losses. They easily and perhaps justly represented that the

monopoly of the fur-trade secured to De Monts was sapping the national

commerce and diverting to personal emolument revenues that properly

belonged to the state. To an impoverished sovereign with an empty treasury

this appeal was irresistible. The sacredness of the king's commission and

the loss to the patentee of the property already embarked in the enterprise

had no weight in the royal scales. De Monts's privilege was revoked, with

the tantalizing salvo of six thousand livres in remuneration, to be

collected at his own expense from unproductive sources.

Under these circumstances, no money for the payment of the workmen or

provisions for the coming winter had been sent out, and De Poutrincourt,

with great reluctance, proceeded to break up the establishment. The goods

and utensils, as well as specimens of the grain which they had raised, were

to be carefully packed and sent round to the harbor of Canseau, to be

shipped by the "Jonas," together with the whole body of the colonists, as

soon as she should have received her cargo of fish.

While these preparations were in progress, two excursions were made; one

towards the west, and another northeasterly towards the head of the Bay of

Fundy. Lescarbot accompanied the former, passing several days at St. John

and the island of St. Croix, which was the westerly limit of his

explorations and personal knowledge of the American coast. The other

excursion was conducted by De Poutrincourt, accompanied by Champlain, the

object of which was to search for ores of the precious metals, a species of

wealth earnestly coveted and overvalued at the court of France. They sailed

along the northern shores of Nova Scotia, entered Mines Channel, and

anchored off Cape Fendu, now Anglicised into the uneuphonious name of Cape

Split. De Poutrincourt landed on this headland, and ascended a steep and

lofty summit which is not less than four hundred feet in height. Moss

several feet in thickness, the growth of centuries, had gathered upon it,

and, when he stood upon the pinnacle, it yielded and trembled like gelatine

under his feet. He found himself in a critical situation. From this giddy

and unstable height he had neither the skill or courage to return. After

much anxiety, he was at length rescued by some of his more nimble sailors,

who managed to put a hawser over the summit, by means of which he safely

descended. They named it _Cap de Poutrincourt_.

They proceeded as far as the head of the Basin of Mines, but their search

for mineral wealth was fruitless, beyond a few meagre specimens of copper.

Their labors were chiefly rewarded by the discovery of a moss-covered cross

in the last stages of decay, the relic of fishermen, or other Christian

mariners, who had, years before, been upon the coast.

The exploring parties having returned to Port Royal, to their settlement in

what is now known as Annapolis Basin, the bulk of the colonists departed in

three barques for Canseau, on the 30th of July, while De Poutrincourt and

Champlain, with a complement of sailors, remained some days longer, that

they might take with them specimens of wheat still in the field and not yet

entirely ripe.

On the 11th of August they likewise bade adieu to Port Royal amid the tears

of the assembled savages, with whom they had lived in friendship, and who

were disappointed and grieved at their departure. In passing round the

peninsula of Nova Scotia in their little shallop, it was necessary to keep

close in upon the shore, which enabled Champlain, who had not before been

upon the coast east of La Hève, to make a careful survey from that point to

Canseau, the results of which are fully stated in his notes, and delineated

on his map of 1613.

On the 3d of September, the "Jonas," bearing away the little French colony,

sailed out of the harbor of Canseau, and, directing its course towards the

shores of France, arrived at Saint Malo on the 1st of October, 1607.

Champlain's explorations on what may be strictly called the Atlantic coast

of North America were now completed. He had landed at La Hève in Nova

Scotia on the 8th of May, 1604, and had consequently been in the country

three years and nearly four months. During this period he had carefully

examined the whole shore from Canseau, the eastern limit of Nova Scotia, to

the Vineyard Sound on the southern boundaries of Massachusetts. This was

the most ample, accurate, and careful survey of this region which was made

during the whole period from the discovery of the continent in 1497 down to

the establishment of the English colony at Plymouth in 1620. A numerous

train of navigators had passed along the coast of New England: Sebastian

Cabot, Estévan Gomez, Jean Alfonse, André Thevet, John Hawkins, Bartholomew

Gosnold, Martin Pring, George Weymouth, Henry Hudson, John Smith, and the

rest, but the knowledge of the coast which we obtain from them is

exceedingly meagre and unsatisfactory, especially as compared with that

contained in the full, specific, and detailed descriptions, maps, and

drawings left us by this distinguished pioneer in the study and

illustration of the geography of the New England coast. [57]

The winter of 1607-8 Champlain passed in France, where he was pleasantly

occupied in social recreations which were especially agreeable to him after

an absence of more than three years, and in recounting to eager listeners

his experiences in the New World. He took an early opportunity to lay

before Monsieur de Monts the results of the explorations which he had made

in La Cadie since the departure of the latter from Annapolis Basin in the

autumn of 1605, illustrating his narrative by maps and drawings which he

had prepared of the bays and harbors on the coast of Nova Scotia, New

Brunswick, and New England.

While most men would have been disheartened by the opposition which he

encountered, the mind of De Monts was, nevertheless, rekindled by the

recitals of Champlain with fresh zeal in the enterprise which he had

undertaken. The vision of building up a vast territorial establishment,

contemplated by his charter of 1604, with his own personal aggrandizement

and that of his family, had undoubtedly vanished. But he clung,

nevertheless, with extraordinary tenacity to his original purpose of

planting a colony in the New World. This he resolved to do in the face of

many obstacles, and notwithstanding the withdrawment of the royal

protection and bounty. The generous heart of Henry IV. was by no means

insensible to the merits of his faithful subject, and, on his solicitation,

he granted to him letters-patent for the exclusive right of trade in

America, but for the space only of a single year. With this small boon from

the royal hand, De Monts hastened to fit out two vessels for the

expedition. One was to be commanded by Pont Gravé, who was to devote his

undivided attention to trade with the Indians for furs and peltry; the

other was to convey men and material for a colonial plantation.

Champlain, whose energy, zeal, and prudence had impressed themselves upon

the mind of De Monts, was appointed lieutenant of the expedition, and

intrusted with the civil administration, having a sufficient number of men

for all needed defence against savage intruders, Basque fisher men, or

interloping fur-traders.

On the 13th of April, 1608, Champlain left the port of Honfleur, and

arrived at the harbor of Tadoussac on the 3d of June. Here he found Pont

Gravé, who had preceded him by a few days in the voyage, in trouble with a

Basque fur-trader. The latter had persisted in carrying on his traffic,

notwithstanding the royal commission to the contrary, and had succeeded in

disabling Pont Gravé, who had but little power of resistance, killing one

of his men, seriously wounding Pont Gravé himself, as well as several

others, and had forcibly taken possession of his whole armament.

When Champlain had made full inquiries into all the circumstances, he saw

clearly that the difficulty must be compromised; that the exercise of force

in overcoming the intruding Basque would effectually break up his plans for

the year, and bring utter and final ruin upon his undertaking. He wisely

decided to pocket the insult, and let justice slumber for the present. He

consequently required the Basque, who began to see more clearly the

illegality of his course, to enter into a written agreement with Pont Gravé

that neither should interfere with the other while they remained in the

country, and that they should leave their differences to be settled in the

courts on their return to France.

Having thus poured oil upon the troubled waters, Champlain proceeded to

carry out his plans for the location and establishment of his colony. The

difficult navigation of the St. Lawrence above Tadoussac was well known to

him. The dangers of its numberless rocks, sand-bars, and fluctuating

channels had been made familiar to him by the voyage of 1603. He

determined, therefore, to leave his vessel in the harbor of Tadoussac, and

construct a small barque of twelve or fourteen tons, in which to ascend the

river and fix upon a place of settlement.

While the work was in progress, Champlain reconnoitred the neighborhood,

collecting much geographical information from the Indians relating to Lake

St. John and a traditionary salt sea far to the north, exploring the

Saguenay for some distance, of which he has given us a description so

accurate and so carefully drawn that it needs little revision after the

lapse of two hundred and seventy years.

On the last of June, the barque was completed, and Champlain, with a

complement of men and material, took his departure. As he glided along in

his little craft, he was exhilarated by the fragrance of the atmosphere,

the bright coloring of the foliage, the bold, picturesque scenery that

constantly revealed itself on both sides of the river. The lofty mountains,

the expanding valleys, the luxuriant forests, the bold headlands, the

enchanting little bays and inlets, and the numerous tributaries bursting

into the broad waters of the St. Lawrence, were all carefully examined and

noted in his journal. The expedition seemed more like a holiday excursion

than the grave prelude to the founding of a city to be renowned in the

history of the continent.

On the fourth day, they approached the site of the present city of Quebec.

The expanse of the river had hitherto been from eight to thirteen miles.

Here a lofty headland, approaching from the interior, advances upon the

river and forces it into a narrow channel of three-fourths of a mile in

width. The river St. Charles, a small stream flowing from the northwest,

uniting here with the St. Lawrence, forms a basin below the promontory,

spreading out two miles in one direction and four in another. The rocky

headland, jutting out upon the river, rises up nearly perpendicularly, and

to a height of three hundred and forty-five feet, commanding from its

summit a view of water, forest and mountain of surpassing grandeur and

beauty. A narrow belt of fertile land formed by the crumbling _débris_ of

ages, stretches along between the water's edge and the base of the

precipice, and was then covered with a luxurious growth of nut-trees. The

magnificent basin below, the protecting wall of the headland in the rear,

the deep water of the river in front, rendered this spot peculiarly

attractive. Here on this narrow plateau, Champlain resolved to place his

settlement, and forthwith began the work of felling trees, excavating

cellars, and constructing houses.

On the 3d day of July, 1608, Champlain laid the foundation of Quebec. The

name which he gave to it had been applied to it by the savages long before.

It is derived from the Algonquin word _quebio_, or _quebec_, signifying a

_narrowing_, and was descriptive of the form which the river takes at that

place, to which we have already referred.

A few days after their arrival, an event occurred of exciting interest to

Champlain and his little colony. One of their number, Jean du Val, an

abandoned wretch, who possessed a large share of that strange magnetic

power which some men have over the minds of others, had so skilfully

practised upon the credulity of his comrades that he had drawn them all

into a scheme which, aside from its atrocity, was weak and ill-contrived at

every point. It was nothing less than a plan to assassinate Champlain, seize

the property belonging to the expedition, and sell it to the Basque

fur-traders at Tadoussac, under the hallucination that they should be

enriched by the pillage. They had even entered into a solemn compact, and

whoever revealed the secret was to be visited by instant death. Their

purpose was to seize Champlain in an unguarded moment and strangle him, or

to shoot him in the confusion of a false alarm to be raised in the night by

themselves. But before the plan was fully ripe for execution, a barque

unexpectedly arrived from Tadoussac with an instalment of utensils and

provisions for the colony. One of the men, Antoine Natel, who had entered

into the conspiracy with reluctance, and had been restrained from a

disclosure by fear, summoned courage to reveal the plot to the pilot of the

boat, first securing from him the assurance that he should be shielded from

the vengeance of his fellow-conspirators. The secret was forthwith made

known to Champlain, who, by a stroke of finesse, placed himself beyond

danger before he slept. At his suggestion, the four leading spirits of the

plot were invited by one of the sailors to a social repast on the barque,

at which two bottles of wine which he pretended had been given him at

Tadoussac were to be uncorked. In the midst of the festivities, the "four

worthy heads of the conspiracy," as Champlain satirically calls them, were

suddenly clapped into irons. It was now late in the evening, but Champlain

nevertheless summoned all the rest of the men into his presence, and

offered them a full pardon, on condition that they would disclose the whole

scheme and the motives which had induced them to engage in it. This they

were eager to do, as they now began to comprehend the dangerous compact

into which they had entered, and the peril which threatened their own

lives. These preliminary investigations rendered it obvious to Champlain

that grave consequences must follow, and he therefore proceeded with great

caution.

The next day, he took the depositions of the pardoned men, carefully

reducing them to writing. He then departed for Tadoussac, taking the four

conspirators with him. On consultation, he decided to leave them there,

where they could be more safely guarded until Pont Gravé and the principal

men of the expedition could return with them to Quebec, where he proposed

to give them a more public and formal trial. This was accordingly done. The

prisoners were duly confronted with the witnesses. They denied nothing, but

freely admitted their guilt. With the advice and concurrence of Pont Gravé,

the pilot, surgeon, mate, boatswain, and others, Champlain condemned the

four conspirators to be hung; three of them, however, to be sent home for a

confirmation or revision of their sentence by the authorities in France,

while the sentence of Jean Du Val, the arch-plotter of the malicious

scheme, was duly executed in their presence, with all the solemn forms and

ceremonies usual on such occasions. Agreeably to a custom of that period,

the ghastly head of Du Val was elevated on the highest pinnacle of the fort

at Quebec, looking down and uttering its silent warning to the busy

colonists below; the grim signal to all beholders, that "the way of the

transgressor is hard."

The catastrophe, had not the plot been nipped in the bud, would have been

sure to take place. The final purpose of the conspirators might not have

been realized; it must have been defeated at a later stage; but the hand of

Du Val, prompted by a malignant nature, was nerved to strike a fatal blow,

and the life of Champlain would have been sacrificed at the opening of the

tragic scene.

The punishment of Du Val, in its character and degree, was not only

agreeable to the civil policy of the age, but was necessary for the

protection of life and the maintenance of order and discipline in the

colony. A conspiracy on land, under the present circumstances, was as

dangerous as a mutiny at sea; and the calm, careful, and dignified

procedure of Champlain in firmly visiting upon the criminal a severe though

merited punishment, reveals the wisdom, prudence, and humanity which were

prominent elements in his mental and moral constitution.

ENDNOTES:

56. _Membertou_. See Pierre Biard's account of his death in 1611.

_Relations des Jésuites_. Quebec ed, Vol. I. p. 32.

57. Had the distinguished navigators who early visited the coasts of North

America illustrated their narratives by drawings and maps, it would

have added greatly to their value. Capt. John Smith's map, though

necessarily indefinite and general, is indispensable to the

satisfactory study of his still more indefinite "Description of New

England." It is, perhaps, a sufficient apology for the vagueness of

Smith's statements, and therefore it ought to be borne in mind, that

his work was originally written, probably, from memory, at least for

the most part, while he was a prisoner on board a French man-of-war in

1615. This may be inferred from the following statement of Smith

himself. In speaking of the movement of the French fleet, he says:

"Still we spent our time about the Iles neere _Fyall_: where to keepe

my perplexed thoughts from too much meditation of my miserable estate,

I writ this discourse" _Vide Description of New England_ by Capt. John

Smith, London, 1616.

While the descriptions of our coast left by Champlain are invaluable to

the historian and cannot well be overestimated, the process of making

these surveys, with his profound love of such explorations and

adventures, must have given him great personal satisfaction and

enjoyment. It would be difficult to find any region of similar extent

that could offer, on a summer's excursion, so much beauty to his eager

and critical eye as this. The following description of the Gulf of

Maine, which comprehends the major part of the field surveyed by

Champlain, that lying between the headlands of Cape Sable and Cape Cod,

gives an excellent idea of the infinite variety and the unexpected and

marvellous beauties that are ever revealing themselves to the voyager

as he passes along our coast.--

"This shoreland is also remarkable, being so battered and frayed by sea

and storm, and worn perhaps by arctic currents and glacier beds, that

its natural front of some 250 miles is multiplied to an extent of not

less than 2,500 miles of salt-water line; while at an average distance

of about three miles from the mainland, stretches a chain of outposts

consisting of more than three hundred islands, fragments of the main,

striking in their diversity on the west; low, wooded and grassy to the

water's edge, and rising eastward through bolder types to the crowns

and cliffs of Mount Desert and Quoddy Head, an advancing series from

beauty to sublimity: and behind all these are deep basins and broad

river-mouths, affording convenient and spacious harbors, in many of

which the navies of nations might safely ride at anchor.... Especially

attractive was the region between the Piscataqua and Penobscot in its

marvellous beauty of shore and sea, of island and inlet, of bay and

river and harbor, surpassing any other equally extensive portion of the

Atlantic coast, and compared by travellers earliest and latest, with

the famed archipelago of the Aegean." _Vide Maine, Her Place in

History_, by Joshua L. Chamberlain, LL D, President of Bowdoin College,

Augusta, 1877, pp. 4-5.

CHAPTER VI.

ERECTION OF BUILDINGS AT QUEBEC.--THE SCURVY AND THE STARVING SAVAGES.--

DISCOVERY OF LAKE CHAMPLAIN, AND THE BATTLE AT TICONDEROGA.--CRUELTIES

INFLICTED ON PRISONERS OF WAR, AND THE FESTIVAL AFTER VICTORY.--

CHAMPLAIN'S RETURN TO FRANCE AND HIS INTERVIEW WITH HENRY IV.--VOYAGE TO

NEW FRANCE AND PLANS OF DISCOVERY.--BATTLE WITH THE IROQUOIS NEAR THE MOUTH

OF THE RICHELIEU.--REPAIR OF BUILDINGS AT QUEBEC.--NEWS OF THE

ASSASSINATION OF HENRY IV.--CHAMPLAIN'S RETURN TO FRANCE AND HIS CONTRACT

OF MARRIAGE.--VOYAGE TO QUEBEC IN 1611.

On the 18th of September, 1608, Pont Gravé, having obtained his cargo of

furs and peltry, sailed for France.

The autumn was fully occupied by Champlain and his little band of colonists

in completing the buildings and in making such other provisions as were

needed against the rigors of the approaching winter. From the forest trees

beams were hewed into shape with the axe, boards and plank were cut from

the green wood with the saw, walls were reared from the rough stones

gathered at the base of the cliff, and plots of land were cleared near the

settlement, where wheat and rye were sown and grapevines planted, which

successfully tested the good qualities of the soil and climate.

Three lodging-houses were erected on the northwest angle formed by the

junction of the present streets St. Peter and Sous le Fort, near or on the

site of the Church of Notre Dame. Adjoining, was a store-house. The whole

was, surrounded by a moat fifteen feet wide and six feet deep, thus giving

the settlement the character of a fort; a wise precaution against a sudden

attack of the treacherous savages. [58]

At length the sunny days of autumn were gone, and the winter, with its

fierce winds and its penetrating frosts and deep banks of snow, was upon

them. Little occupation could be furnished for the twenty-eight men that

composed the colony. Their idleness soon brought a despondency that hung

like a pall upon their spirits. In February, disease made its approach. It

had not been expected. Every defence within their knowledge had been

provided against it. Their houses were closely sealed and warm; their

clothing was abundant; their food nutritious and plenty. But a diet too

exclusively of salt meat had, notwithstanding, in the opinion of Champlain,

and we may add the want, probably, of exercise and the presence of bad air,

induced the _mal de la terre_ or scurvy, and it made fearful havoc with his

men. Twenty, five out of each seven of their whole number, had been carried

to their graves before the middle of April, and half of the remaining eight

had been attacked by the loathsome scourge.

While the mind of Champlain was oppressed by the suffering and death that

were at all times present in their abode, his sympathies were still further

taxed by the condition of the savages, who gathered in great numbers about

the settlement, in the most abject misery and in the last stages of

starvation. As Champlain could only furnish them, from his limited stores,

temporary and partial relief, it was the more painful to see them slowly

dragging their feeble frames about in the snow, gathering up and devouring

with avidity discarded meat in which the process of decomposition was far

advanced, and which was already too potent with the stench of decay to be

approached by his men.

Beyond the ravages of disease [59] and the starving Indians, Champlain adds

nothing more to complete the gloomy picture of his first winter in Quebec.

The gales of wind that swept round the wall of precipice that protected

them in the rear, the drifts of snow that were piled up in fresh

instalments with every storm about their dwelling, the biting frost, more

piercing and benumbing than they had ever experienced before, the unceasing

groans of the sick within, the semi-weekly procession bearing one after

another of their diminishing numbers to the grave, the mystery that hung

over the disease, and the impotency of all remedies, we know were prominent

features in the picture. But the imagination seeks in vain for more than a

single circumstance that could throw upon it a beam of modifying and

softening light, and that was the presence of the brave Champlain, who bore

all without a murmur, and, we may be sure, without a throb of unmanly fear

or a sensation of cowardly discontent.

But the winter, as all winters do, at length melted reluctantly away, and

the spring came with its verdure, and its new life. The spirits of the

little remnant of a colony began to revive. Eight of the twenty-eight with

which the winter began were still surviving. Four had escaped attack, and

four were rejoicing convalescents.

On the 5th of June, news came that Pont Gravé had arrived from France, and

was then at Tadoussac, whither Champlain immediately repaired to confer

with him, and particularly to make arrangements at the earliest possible

moment for an exploring expedition into the interior, an undertaking which

De Monts had enjoined upon him, and which was not only agreeable to his own

wishes, but was a kind of enterprise which had been a passion with him from

his youth.

In anticipation of a tour of exploration during the approaching summer,

Champlain had already ascertained from the Indians that, lying far to the

southwest, was an extensive lake, famous among the savages, containing many

fair islands, and surrounded by a beautiful and productive country. Having

expressed a desire to visit this region, the Indians readily offered to act

as guides, provided, nevertheless, that he would aid them in a warlike raid

upon their enemies, the Iroquois, the tribe known to us as the Mohawks,

whose homes were beyond the lake in question. Champlain without hesitation

acceded to the condition exacted, but with little appreciation, as we

confidently believe, of the bitter consequences that were destined to

follow the alliance thus inaugurated; from which, in after years, it was

inexpedient, if not impossible, to recede.

Having fitted out a shallop, Champlain left Quebec on his tour of

exploration on the 18th of June, 1609, with eleven men, together with a

party of Montagnais, a tribe of Indians who, in their hunting and fishing

excursions, roamed over an indefinite region on the north side of the St.

Lawrence, but whose headquarters were at Tadoussac. After ascending the St

Lawrence about sixty miles, he came upon an encampment of two hundred or

three hundred savages, Hurons [60] and Algonquins, the former dwelling on

the borders of the lake of the same name, the latter on the upper waters of

the Ottawa. They had learned something of the French from a son of one of

their chiefs, who had been at Quebec the preceding autumn, and were now on

their way to enter into an alliance with the French against the Iroquois.

After formal negotiations and a return to Quebec to visit the French

settlement and witness the effect of their firearms, of which they had

heard and which greatly excited their curiosity, and after the usual

ceremonies of feasting and dancing, the whole party proceeded up the river

until they reached the mouth of the Richelieu. Here they remained two days,

as guests of the Indians, feasting upon fish, venison, and water-fowl.

While these festivities were in progress, a disagreement arose among the

savages, and the bulk of them, including the women, returned to their

homes. Sixty warriors, however, some from each of the three allied tribes,

proceeded up the Richelieu with Champlain. At the Falls of Chambly, finding

it impossible for the shallop to pass them, he directed the pilot to return

with it to Quebec, leaving only two men from the crew to accompany him on

the remainder of the expedition. From this point, Champlain and his two

brave companions entrusted themselves to the birch canoe of the savages.

For a short distance, the canoes, twenty-four in all, were transported by

land. The fall and rapids, extending as far as St. John, were at length

passed. They then proceeded up the river, and, entering the lake which now

bears the name of Champlain, crept along the western bank, advancing after

the first few days only in the night, hiding themselves during the day in

the thickets on the shore to avoid the observation of their enemies, whom

they were now liable at any moment to meet.

On the evening of the 29th of July, at about ten o'clock, when the allies

were gliding noiselessly along in restrained silence, as they approached

the little cape that juts out into the lake at Ticonderoga, near where Fort

Carillon was afterwards erected by the French, and where its ruins are

still to be seen, [61] they discovered a flotilla of heavy canoes, of oaken

bark, containing not far from two hundred Iroquois warriors, armed and

impatient for conflict. A furor and frenzy as of so many enraged tigers

instantly seized both parties. Champlain and his allies withdrew a short

distance, an arrow's range from the shore, fastening their canoes by poles

to keep them together, while the Iroquois hastened to the water's edge,

drew up their canoes side by side, and began to fell trees and construct a

barricade, which they were well able to accomplish with marvellous facility

and skill. Two boats were sent out to inquire if the Iroquois desired to

fight, to which they replied that they wanted nothing so much, and, as it

was now dark, at sunrise the next morning they would give them battle. The

whole night was spent by both parties in loud and tumultuous boasting,

berating each other in the roundest terms which their savage vocabulary

could furnish, insultingly charging each other with cowardice and weakness,

and declaring that they would prove the truth of their assertions to their

utter ruin the next morning.

When the sun began to gild the distant mountain-tops, the combatants were

ready for the fray. Champlain and his two companions, each lying low in

separate canoes of the Montagnais, put on, as best they could, the light

armor in use at that period, and, taking the short hand-gun, or arquebus,

went on shore, concealing themselves as much as possible from the enemy. As

soon as all had landed, the two parties hastily approached each other,

moving with a firm and determined tread. The allies, who had become fully

aware of the deadly character of the hand-gun and were anxious to see an

exhibition of its mysterious power, promptly opened their ranks, and

Champlain marched forward in front, until he was within thirty paces of the

Iroquois. When they saw him, attracted by his pale face and strange armor,

they halted and gazed at him in a calm bewilderment for some seconds. Three

Iroquois chiefs, tall and athletic, stood in front, and could be easily

distinguished by the lofty plumes that waved above their heads. They began

at once to make ready for a discharge of arrows. At the same instant,

Champlain, perceiving this movement, levelled his piece, which had been

loaded with four balls, and two chiefs fell dead, and another savage was

mortally wounded by the same shot. At this, the allies raised a shout

rivalling thunder in its stunning effect. From both sides the whizzing

arrows filled the air. The two French arquebusiers, from their ambuscade in

the thicket, immediately attacked in flank, pouring a deadly fire upon the

enemy's right. The explosion of the firearms, altogether new to the

Iroquois, the fatal effects that instantly followed, their chiefs lying

dead at their feet and others fast falling, threw them into a tumultuous

panic. They at once abandoned every thing, arms, provisions, boats, and

camp, and without any impediment, the naked savages fled through the forest

with the fleetness of the terrified deer. Champlain and his allies pursued

them a mile and a half, or to the first fall in the little stream that

connects Lake Champlain [62] and Lake George. [63] The victory was

complete. The allies gathered at the scene of conflict, danced and sang in

triumph, collected and appropriated the abandoned armor, feasted on the

provisions left by the Iroquois, and, within three hours, with ten or

twelve prisoners, were sailing down the lake on their homeward voyage.

After they had rowed about eight leagues, according to Champlain's

estimate, they encamped for the night. A prevailing characteristic of the

savages on the eastern coast, in the early history of America, was the

barbarous cruelties which they inflicted upon their prisoners of war. [64]

They did not depart from their usual custom in the present instance. Having

kindled a fire, they selected a victim, and proceeded to excoriate his back

with red-hot burning brands, and to apply live coals to the ends of his

fingers, where they would give the most exquisite pain. They tore out his

finger-nails, and, with sharp slivers of wood, pierced his wrists and

rudely forced out the quivering sinews. They flayed off the skin from the

top of his head, [65] and poured upon the bleeding wound a stream of

boiling melted gum. Champlain remonstrated in vain. The piteous cries of

the poor, tormented victim excited his unavailing compassion, and he turned

away in anger and disgust. At length, when these inhuman tortures had been

carried as far as they desired, Champlain was permitted, at his earnest

request, with a musket-shot to put an end to his sufferings. But this was

not the termination of the horrid performance. The dead victim was hacked

in pieces, his heart severed into parts, and the surviving prisoners were

ordered to eat it. This was too revolting to their nature, degraded as it

was; they were forced, however, to take it into their mouths, but they

would do no more, and their guard of more compassionate Algonquins allowed

them to cast it into the lake.

This exhibition of savage cruelty was not extraordinary, but according to

their usual custom. It was equalled, and, if possible, even surpassed, in

the treatment of captives generally, and especially of the Jesuit

missionaries in after years. [66]

When the party arrived at the Falls of Chambly, the Hurons and Algonquins

left the river, in order to reach their homes by a shorter way,

transporting their canoes and effects over land to the St. Lawrence near

Montreal, while the rest continued their journey down the Richelieu and the

St. Lawrence to Tadoussac, where their families were encamped, waiting to

join in the usual ceremonies and rejoicings after a great victory.

When the returning warriors approached Tadoussac, they hung aloft on the

prow of their canoes the scalped heads of those whom they had slain,

decorated with beads which they had begged from the French for this

purpose, and with a savage grace presented these ghastly trophies to their

wives and daughters, who, laying aside their garments, eagerly swam out to

obtain the precious mementoes, which they hung about their necks and bore

rejoicing to the shore, where they further testified their satisfaction by

dancing and singing.

After a few days, Champlain repaired to Quebec, and early in September

decided to return with Pont Gravé to France. All arrangements were speedily

made for that purpose. Fifteen men were left to pass the winter at Quebec,

in charge of Captain Pierre Chavin of Dieppe. On the 5th of September they

sailed from Tadoussac, and, lingering some days at Isle Percé, arrived at

Honfleur on the 13th of October, 1609.

Champlain hastened immediately to Fontainebleau, to make a detailed report

of his proceedings to Sieur de Monts, who was there in official attendance

upon the king. [67] On this occasion he sought an audience also with Henry

IV., who had been his friend and patron from the time of his first voyage

to Canada in 1603. In addition to the new discoveries and observations

which he detailed to him, he exhibited a belt curiously wrought and inlaid

with porcupine-quills, the work of the savages, which especially drew forth

the king's admiration. He also presented two specimens of the scarlet

tanager, _Pyranga rubra_, a bird of great brilliancy of plumage and

peculiar to this continent, and likewise the head of a gar-pike, a fish of

singular characteristics, then known only in the waters of Lake Champlain.

[68]

At this time De Monts was urgently seeking a renewal of his commission for

the monopoly of the fur-trade. In this Champlain was deeply interested. But

to this monopoly a powerful opposition arose, and all efforts at renewal

proved utterly fruitless. De Monts did not, however, abandon the enterprise

on which he had entered. Renewing his engagements with the merchants of

Rouen with whom he had already been associated, he resolved to send out in

the early spring, as a private enterprise and without any special

privileges or monopoly, two vessels with the necessary equipments for

strengthening his colony at Quebec and for carrying on trade as usual with

the Indians.

Champlain was again appointed lieutenant, charged with the government and

management of the colony, with the expectation of passing the next winter

at Quebec, while Pont Gravé, as he had been before, was specially entrusted

with the commercial department of the expedition.

They embarked at Honfleur, but were detained in the English Channel by bad

weather for some days. In the mean time Champlain was taken seriously ill,

the vessel needed additional ballast, and returned to port, and they did

not finally put to sea till the 8th of April. They arrived at Tadoussac on

the 26th of the same month, in the year 1610, and, two days later, sailed

for Quebec, where they found the commander, Captain Chavin, and the little

colony all in excellent health.

The establishment at Quebec, it is to be remembered, was now a private

enterprise. It existed by no chartered rights, it was protected by no

exclusive authority. There was consequently little encouragement for its

enlargement beyond what was necessary as a base of commercial operations.

The limited cares of the colony left, therefore, to Champlain, a larger

scope for the exercise of his indomitable desire for exploration and

adventure. Explorations could not, however, be carried forward without the

concurrence and guidance of the savages by whom he was immediately

surrounded. Friendly relations existed between the French and the united

tribes of Montagnais, Hurons, and Algonquins, who occupied the northern

shores of the St. Lawrence and the great lakes. A burning hatred existed

between these tribes and the Iroquois, occupying the southern shores of the

same river. A deadly warfare was their chief employment, and every summer

each party was engaged either in repelling an invasion or in making one in

the territory of the other. Those friendly to Champlain were quite ready to

act as pioneers in his explorations and discoveries, but they expected and

demanded in return that he should give them active personal assistance in

their wars. Influenced, doubtless, by policy, the spirit of the age, and

his early education in the civil conflicts of France, Champlain did not

hesitate to enter into an alliance and an exchange of services on these

terms.

In the preceding year, two journeys into distant regions had been planned

for exploration and discovery. One beginning at Three Rivers, was to

survey, under the guidance of the Montagnais, the river St. Maurice to its

source, and thence, by different channels and portages, reach Lake St.

John, returning by the Saguenay, making in the circuit a distance of not

less than eight hundred miles. The other plan was to explore, under the

direction of the Hurons and Algonquins, the vast country over which they

were accustomed to roam, passing up the Ottawa, and reaching in the end the

region of the copper mines on Lake Superior, a journey not less than twice

the extent of the former.

Neither of these explorations could be undertaken the present year. Their

importance, however, to the future progress of colonization in New France

is sufficiently obvious. The purpose of making these surveys shows the

breadth and wisdom of Champlain's views, and that hardships or dangers were

not permitted to interfere with his patriotic sense of duty.

Soon after his arrival at Quebec, the savages began to assemble to engage

in their usual summer's entertainment of making war upon the Iroquois.

Sixty Montagnais, equipped in their rude armor, were hastening to the

rendezvous which, by agreement made the year before, was to be at the mouth

of the Richelieu. [69] Hither were to come the three allied tribes, and

pass together up this river into Lake Champlain, the "gate" or war-path

through which these hostile clans were accustomed to make their yearly

pilgrimage to meet each other in deadly conflict. Sending forward four

barques for trading purposes, Champlain repaired to the mouth of the

Richelieu, and landed, in company with the Montagnais, on the Island St.

Ignace, on the 19th of June. While preparations were making to receive

their Algonquin allies from the region of the Ottawa, news came that they

had already arrived, and that they had discovered a hundred Iroquois

strongly barricaded in a log fort, which they had hastily thrown together

on the brink of the river not far distant, and to capture them the

assistance of all parties was needed without delay. Champlain, with four

Frenchmen and the sixty Montagnais, left the island in haste, passed over

to the mainland, where they left their canoes, and eagerly rushed through

the marshy forest a distance of two miles. Burdened with their heavy armor,

half consumed by mosquitoes which were so thick that they were scarcely

able to breathe, covered with mud and water, they at length stood before

the Iroquois fort. [70] It was a structure of logs laid one upon another,

braced and held together by posts coupled by withes, and of the usual

circular form. It offered a good protection in savage warfare. Even the

French arquebus discharged through the crevices did slow execution.

It was obvious to Champlain that, to ensure victory, the fort must be

demolished. Huge trees, severed at the base, falling upon it, did not break

it down. At length, directed by Champlain, the savages approached under

their shields, tore away the supporting posts, and thus made a breach, into

which rushed the infuriated besiegers, and in hot haste finished their

deadly work. Fifteen of the Iroquois were taken prisoners; a few plunged

into the river and were drowned; the rest perished by musket-shots,

arrow-wounds, the tomahawk, and the war-club. Of the allied savages three

were killed and fifty wounded. Champlain himself did not escape altogether

unharmed. An arrow, armed with a sharp point of stone, pierced his ear and

neck, which he drew out with his own hand. One of his companions received a

similar wound in the arm. The victors scalped the dead as usual,

ornamenting the prows of their canoes with the bleeding heads of their

enemies, while they severed one of the bodies into quarters, to eat, as

they alleged, in revenge.

The canoes of the savages and a French shallop having come to the scene of

this battle, all soon embarked and returned to the Island of St. Ignace.

Here the allies, joined by eighty Huron warriors who had arrived too late

to participate in the conflict, remained three days, celebrating their

victory by dancing, singing, and the administration of the usual punishment

upon their prisoners of war. This consisted in a variety of exquisite

tortures, similar to those inflicted the year before, after the victory on

Lake Champlain, horrible and sickening in all their features, and which

need not be spread upon these pages. From these tortures Champlain would

gladly have snatched the poor wretches, had it been in his power, but in

this matter the savages would brook no interference. There was a solitary

exception, however, in a fortunate young Iroquois who fell to him in the

division of prisoners. He was treated with great kindness, but it did not

overcome his excessive fear and distrust, and he soon sought an opportunity

and escaped to his home. [71]

When the celebration of the victory had been completed, the Indians

departed to their distant abodes. Champlain, however, before their

departure, very wisely entered into an agreement that they should receive

for the winter a young Frenchman who was anxious to learn their language,

and, in return, he was himself to take a young Huron, at their special

request, to pass the winter in France. This judicious arrangement, in which

Champlain was deeply interested and which he found some difficulty in

accomplishing, promised an important future advantage in extending the

knowledge of both parties, and in strengthening on the foundation of

personal experience their mutual confidence and friendship.

After the departure of the Indians, Champlain returned to Quebec, and

proceeded to put the buildings in repair and to see that all necessary

arrangements were made for the safety and comfort of the colony during the

next winter.

On the 4th of July, Des Marais, in charge of the vessel belonging to De

Monts and his company, which had been left behind and had been expected

soon to follow, arrived at Quebec, bringing the intelligence that a small

revolution had taken place in Brouage, the home of Champlain, that the

Protestants had been expelled, and an additional guard of soldiers had been

placed in the garrison. Des Marais also brought the startling news that

Henry IV. had been assassinated on the 14th of May. Champlain was

penetrated by this announcement with the deepest sorrow. He fully saw how

great a public calamity had fallen upon his country. France had lost, by an

ignominious blow, one of her ablest and wisest sovereigns, who had, by his

marvellous power, gradually united and compacted the great interests of the

nation, which had been shattered and torn by half a century of civil

conflicts and domestic feuds. It was also to him a personal loss. The king

had taken a special interest in his undertakings, had been his patron from

the time of his first voyage to New France in 1603, had sustained him by an

annual pension, and on many occasions had shown by word and deed that he

fully appreciated the great value of his explorations in his American

domains. It was difficult to see how a loss so great both to his country

and himself could be repaired. A cloud of doubt and uncertainty hung over

the future. The condition of the company, likewise, under whose auspices he

was acting, presented at this time no very encouraging features. The

returns from the fur-trade had been small, owing to the loss of the

monopoly which the company had formerly enjoyed, and the excessive

competition which free-trade had stimulated. Only a limited attention had

as yet been given to the cultivation of the soil. Garden vegetables had

been placed in cultivation, together with small fields of Indian corn,

wheat, rye, and barley. These attempts at agriculture were doubtless

experiments, while at the same time they were useful in supplementing the

stores needed for the colony's consumption.

Champlain's personal presence was not required at Quebec during the winter,

as no active enterprise could be carried forward in that inclement season,

and he decided, therefore, to return to France. The little colony now

consisted of sixteen men, which he placed in charge, during his absence, of

Sieur Du Parc. He accordingly left Tadoussac on the 13th of August, and

arrived at Honfleur in France on the 27th of September, 1610.

During the autumn of this year, while residing in Paris, Champlain became

attached to Hélène Boullé, the daughter of Nicholas Boullé, secretary of

the king's chamber. She was at that time a mere child, and of too tender

years to act for herself, particularly in matters of so great importance as

those which relate to marital relations. However, agreeably to a custom not

infrequent at that period, a marriage contract [72] was entered into on the

27th of December with her parents, in which, nevertheless, it was

stipulated that the nuptials should not take place within at least two

years from that date. The dowry of the future bride was fixed at six

thousand livres _tournois_, three fourths of which were paid and receipted

for by Champlain two days after the signing of the contract. The marriage

was afterward consummated, and Helen Boullé, as his wife, accompanied

Champlain to Quebec, in 1620, as we shall see in the sequel.

Notwithstanding the discouragements of the preceding year and the small

prospect of future success, De Monts and the merchants associated with him

still persevered in sending another expedition, and Champlain left Honfleur

for New France on the first day of March, 1611. Unfortunately, the voyage

had been undertaken too early in the season for these northern waters, and

long before they reached the Grand Banks, they encountered ice-floes of the

most dangerous character. Huge blocks of crystal, towering two hundred feet

above the surface of the water, floated at times near them, and at others

they were surrounded and hemmed in by vast fields of ice extending as far

as the eye could reach. Amid these ceaseless perils, momentarily expecting

to be crushed between the floating islands wheeling to and fro about them,

they struggled with the elements for nearly two months, when finally they

reached Tadoussac on the 13th of May.

ENDNOTES:

58. The situation of Quebec and an engraved representation of the buildings

may be seen by reference to Vol. II. pp. 175, 183.

59. Scurvy, or _mal de la terre_.--_Vide_ Vol. II. note 105.

60. _Hurons_ "The word Huron comes from the French, who seeing these

Indians with the hair cut very short, and standing up in a strange

fashion, giving them a fearful air, cried out, the first time they saw

them, _Quelle hures!_ what boars' heads! and so got to call them

Hurons."--Charlevoix's _His. New France_, Shea's Trans Vol. II. p. 71.

_Vide Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed. Vol. I. 1639, P 51; also note

321, Vol. II. of this work, for brief notice of the Algonquins and

other tribes.

61. For the identification of the site of this battle, see Vol. II p. 223,

note 348. It is eminently historical ground. Near it Fort Carrillon was

erected by the French in 1756. Here Abercrombie was defeated by

Montcalm in 1758. Lord Amherst captured the fort in 1759 Again it was

taken from the English by the patriot Ethan Alien in 1775. It was

evacuated by St. Clair when environed by Burgoyne in 1777, and now for

a complete century it has been visited by the tourist as a ruin

memorable for its many historical associations.

62. This lake, discovered and explored by Champlain, is ninety miles in

length. Through its centre runs the boundary line between the State of

New York and that of Vermont. From its discovery to the present time it

has appropriately borne the honored name of Champlain. For its Indian

name, _Caniaderiguarunte_, see Vol. II. note 349. According to Mr. Shea

the Mohawk name of Lake Champlain is _Caniatagaronte_.--_Vide Shea's

Charlevoix_. Vol. II. p. 18.

Lake Champlain and the Hudson River were both discovered the same year,

and were severally named after the distinguished navigators by whom

they were explored. Champlain completed his explorations at

Ticonderoga, on the 30th of July, 1609, and Hudson reached the highest

point made by him on the river, near Albany, on the 22d of September of

the same year.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 219. Also _The Third Voyage of

Master Henry Hudson_, written by Robert Ivet of Lime-house,

_Collections of New York His. Society_, Vol. I. p. 140.

63. _Lake George_. The Jesuit Father, Isaac Jogues, having been summoned in

1646 to visit the Mohawks, to attend to the formalities of ratifying a

treaty of peace which had been concluded with them, passing by canoe up

the Richelieu, through Lake Champlain, and arriving at the end of Lake

George on the 29th of May, the eve of Corpus Christi, a festival

celebrated by the Roman Church on the Thursday after Trinity Sunday, in

honor of the Holy Eucharist or the Lord's Supper, named this lake LAC

DU SAINT SACREMENT. The following is from the Jesuit Relation of 1646

by Pere Hierosme Lalemant. Ils arriuèrent la veille du S. Sacrement au

bout du lac qui est ioint au grand lac de Champlain. Les Iroquois le

nomment Andiatarocté, comme qui diroit, là où le lac se ferme. Le Pere

le nomma le lac du S. Sacrement--_Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed.

Vol. II. 1646, p. 15.

Two important facts are here made perfectly plain; viz. that the

original Indian name of the lake was _Andtatarocté_, and that the

French named it Lac du Saint Sacrement because they arrived on its

shores on the eve of the festival celebrated in honor of the Eucharist

or the Lord's Supper. Notwithstanding this very plain statement, it has

been affirmed without any historical foundation whatever, that the

original Indian name of this lake was _Horican_, and that the Jesuit

missionaries, having selected it for the typical purification of

baptism on account of its limpid waters, named it _Lac du Saint

Sacrement_. This perversion of history originated in the extraordinary

declaration of Mr. James Fenimore Cooper, in his novel entitled "The

Last of the Mohicans," in which these two erroneous statements are

given as veritable history. This new discovery by Cooper was heralded

by the public journals, scholars were deceived, and the bold imposition

was so successful that it was even introduced into a meritorious poem

in which the Horican of the ancient tribes and the baptismal waters of

the limpid lake are handled with skill and effect. Twenty-five years

after the writing of his novel, Mr. Cooper's conscience began seriously

to trouble him, and he publicly confessed, in a preface to "The Last of

the Mohicans," that the name Horican had been first applied to the lake

by himself, and without any historical authority. He is silent as to

the reason he had assigned for the French name of the lake, which was

probably an assumption growing out of his ignorance of its

meaning--_Vide The Last of The Mohicans_, by J. Fenimore Cooper,

Gregory's ed., New York, 1864, pp ix-x and 12.

64. "There are certain general customs which mark the California Indians,

as, the non-use of torture on prisoners of war," &c.--_Vide The Tribes

of California_, by Stephen Powers, in _Contributions to North American

Ethnology_, Vol. III. p. 15. _Tribes of Washington and Oregon_, by

George Gibbs, _idem_, Vol. I. p. 192.

65. "It has been erroneously asserted that the practice of scalping did not

prevail among the Indians before the advent of Europeans. In 1535,

Cartier saw five scalps at Quebec, dried and stretched on hoops. In

1564, Laudonniere saw them among the Indians of Florida. The Algonquins

of New England and Nova Scotia were accustomed to cut off and carry

away the head, which they afterwards scalped. Those of Canada, it

seems, sometimes scalped the dead bodies on the field. The Algonquin

practice of carrying off heads as trophies is mentioned by Lalemant,

Roger Williams, Lescarbot, and Champlain."--_Vide Pioneers of France in

the New World_, by Francis Parkman, Boston, 1874, p. 322. The practice

of the tribes on the Pacific coast is different "In war they do not

take scalps, but decapitate the slain and bring in the heads as

trophies."--_Contributions to Am. Ethnology_, by Stephen Powers,

Washington, 1877, Vol. III. pp. 21, 221. _Vide_ Vol. I. p. 192. The

Yuki are an exception. Vol. III. p. 129.

66. For an account of the sufferings of Brébeuf, Lalemant, and Jogues, see

_History of Catholic Missions_, by John Gilmary Shea, pp. 188, 189,

217.

67. He was gentleman in ordinary to the king's chamber. "Gentil-homme

ordinaire de nôstre Chambre."--_Vide Commission du Roy au Sieur de

Monts, Histoire de la Nouvelle France_, par Marc Lescarbot, Paris,

1612, p. 432.

68. Called by the Indians _chaousarou_. For a full account of this

crustacean _vide_ Vol. II. note 343.

69. The mouth of the Richelieu was the usual place of meeting. In 1603, the

allied tribes were there when Champlain ascended the St Lawrence. They

had a fort, which he describes.--_Vide postea_, p 243.

70. Champlain's description does not enable us to identify the place of

this battle with exactness. It will be observed, if we refer to his

text, that, leaving the island of St Ignace, and going half a league,

crossing the river, they landed, when they were plainly on the mainland

near the mouth of the Richelieu. They then went half a league, and

finding themselves outrun by their Indian guides and lost, they called

to two savages, whom they saw going through the woods, to guide them.

Going a _short distance_, they were met by a messenger from the scene

of conflict, to urge them to hasten forwards. Then, after going less

than an eighth of a league, they were within the sound of the voices of

the combatants at the fort. These distances are estimated without

measurement, and, of course, are inexact: but, putting the distances

mentioned altogether, the journey through the woods to the fort was

apparently a little more than two miles. Had they followed the course

of the river, the distance would probably have been somewhat more:

perhaps nearly three miles. Champlain does not positively say that the

fort was on the Richelieu, but the whole narrative leaves no doubt that

such was the fact. This river was the avenue through which the Iroquois

were accustomed to come, and they would naturally encamp here where

they could choose their own ground, and where their enemies were sure

to approach them. If we refer to Champlain's illustration of _Fort des

Iroquois_, Vol. II. p. 241, we shall observe that the river is pictured

as comparatively narrow, which could hardly be a true representation if

it were intended for the St. Lawrence. The escaping Iroquois are

represented as swimming towards the right, which was probably in the

direction of their homes on the south, the natural course of their

retreat. The shallop of Des Prairies, who arrived late, is on the left

of the fort, at the exact point where he would naturally disembark if

he came up the Richelieu from the St. Lawrence. From a study of the

whole narrative, together with the map, we infer that the fort was on

the western bank of the Richelieu, between two and three miles from its

mouth. We are confident that its location cannot be more definitely

fixed.

71. For a full account of the Indian treatment of prisoners, _vide antea_,

pp. 94,95. Also Vol. II. pp. 224-227, 244-246.

72. _Vide Contrat de mariage de Samuel de Champlain, Oeuvres de Champlain_,

Quebec ed. Vol. VI., _Pièces Fustificatives_, p. 33.

Among the early marriages not uncommon at that period, the following

are examples. César, the son of Henry IV., was espoused by public

ceremonies to the daughter of the Duke de Mercoeur in 1598. The

bridegroom was four years old and the bride-elect had just entered her

sixth year. The great Condé, by the urgency of his avaricious father,

was unwillingly married at the age of twenty, to Claire Clemence de

Maillé Brézé, the niece of Cardinal Richelieu, when she was but

thirteen years of age.

CHAPTER VII.

THE FUR-TRADE AT MONTREAL.--COMPETITION AT THE RENDEZVOUS.--NO

EXPLORATIONS.--CHAMPLAIN RETURNS TO FRANCE.--REORGANIZATION OF THE

COMPANY.--COUNT DE SOISSONS, HIS DEATH.--PRINCE DE CONDÉ.--CHAMPLAIN'S

RETURN TO NEW FRANCE AND TRADE WITH THE INDIANS.--EXPLORATION AND DE

VIGNAN, THE FALSE GUIDE.--INDIAN CEREMONY AT CHAUDIÈRE FALLS.

Champlain lost no time in hastening to Quebec, where he found Du Parc, whom

he had left in charge, and the colony in excellent health. The paramount

and immediate object which now engaged his attention was to secure for the

present season the fur-trade of the Indians. This furnished the chief

pecuniary support of De Monts's company, and was absolutely necessary to

its existence. He soon, therefore, took his departure for the Falls of St.

Louis, situated a short distance above Montreal, and now better known as La

Chine Rapids. In the preceding year, this place had been agreed upon as a

rendezvous by the friendly tribes. But, as they had not arrived, Champlain

proceeded to make a thorough exploration on both sides of the St. Lawrence,

extending his journeys more than twenty miles through the forests and along

the shores of the river, for the purpose of selecting a proper site for a

trading-house, with doubtless an ultimate purpose of making it a permanent

settlement. After a full survey, he finally fixed upon a point of land

which he named _La Place Royale_, situated within the present city of

Montreal, on the eastern side of the little brook Pierre, where it flows

into the St. Lawrence, at Point à Callière. On the banks of this small

stream there were found evidences that the land to the extent of sixty

acres had at some former period been cleared up and cultivated by the

savages, but more recently had been entirely abandoned on account of the

wars, as he learned from his Indian guides, in which they were incessantly

engaged.

Near the spot which had thus been selected for a future settlement,

Champlain discovered a deposit of excellent clay, and, by way of

experiment, had a quantity of it manufactured into bricks, of which he made

a wall on the brink of the river, to test their power of resisting the

frosts and the floods. Gardens were also made and seeds sown, to prove the

quality of the soil. A weary month passed slowly away, with scarcely an

incident to break the monotony, except the drowning of two Indians, who had

unwisely attempted to pass the rapids in a bark canoe overloaded with

heron, which they had taken on an island above. In the mean time, Champlain

had been followed to his rendezvous by a herd of adventurers from the

maritime towns of France, who, stimulated by the freedom of trade, had

flocked after him in numbers out of all proportion to the amount of furs

which they could hope to obtain from the wandering bands of savages that

might chance to visit the St. Lawrence. The river was lined with these

voracious cormorants, anxiously watching the coming of the savages, all

impatient and eager to secure as large a share as possible of the uncertain

and meagre booty for which they had crossed the Atlantic. Fifteen or twenty

barques were moored along the shore, all seeking the best opportunity for

the display of the worthless trinkets for which they had avariciously hoped

to obtain a valuable cargo of furs.

A long line of canoes was at length seen far in the distance. It was a

fleet of two hundred Hurons, who had swept down the rapids, and were now

approaching slowly and in a dignified and impressive order. On coming near,

they set up a simultaneous shout, the token of savage greeting, which made

the welkin ring. This salute was answered by a hundred French arquebuses

from barque and boat and shore. The unexpected multitude of the French, the

newness of the firearms to most of them, filled the savages with dismay.

They concealed their fear as well and as long as possible. They

deliberately built their cabins on the shore, but soon threw up a

barricade, then called a council at midnight, and finally, under pretence

of a beaver-hunt, suddenly removed above the rapids, where they knew the

French barques could not come. When they were thus in a place of safety,

they confessed to Champlain that they had faith in him, which they

confirmed by valuable gifts of furs, but none whatever in the grasping herd

that had followed him to the rendezvous. The trade, meagre in the

aggregate, divided among so many, had proved a loss to all. It was soon

completed, and the savages departed to their homes. Subsequently,

thirty-eight canoes, with eighty or a hundred Algonquin warriors, came to

the rendezvous. They brought, however, but a small quantity of furs, which

added little to the lucrative character of the summer's trade.

The reader will bear in mind that Champlain was not here merely as the

superintendent and responsible agent of a trading expedition. This was a

subordinate purpose, and the result of circumstances which his principal

did not choose, but into which he had been unwillingly forced. It was

necessary not to overlook this interest in the present exigency,

nevertheless De Monts was sustained by an ulterior purpose of a far higher

and nobler character. He still entertained the hope that he should yet

secure a royal charter under which his aspirations for colonial enterprise

should have full scope, and that his ambition would be finally crowned with

the success which he had so long coveted, and for which he had so

assiduously labored. Champlain, who had been for many years the geographer

of the king, who had carefully reported, as he advanced into unexplored

regions, his surveys of the rivers, harbors, and lakes, and had given

faithful descriptions of the native inhabitants, knowledge absolutely

necessary as a preliminary step in laying the foundation of a French empire

in America, did not for a moment lose sight of this ulterior purpose. Amid

the commercial operations to which for the time being he was obliged to

devote his chief attention, he tried in vain to induce the Indians to

conduct an exploring party up the St. Maurice, and thus reach the

headwaters of the Saguenay, a journey which had been planned two years

before. They had excellent excuses to offer, and the undertaking was

necessarily deferred for the present. He, however, obtained much valuable

information from them in conversations, in regard to the source of the St.

Lawrence, the topography of the country which they inhabited, and even

drawings were executed by them to illustrate to him other regions which

they had personally visited.

On the 18th of July, Champlain left the rendezvous, and arrived at Quebec

on the evening of the next day. Having ordered all necessary repairs at the

settlement, and, not unmindful of its adornment, planted rose-bushes about

it, and taking specimens of oak timber to exhibit in France, he left for

Tadoussac, and finally for France on the 11th of August, and arrived at

Rochelle on the 16th of September, 1611.

Immediately on his arrival, Champlain repaired to the city of Pons, in

Saintonge, of which De Monts was governor, and laid before him the

Situation of his affairs at Quebec. De Monts still clung to the hope of

obtaining a royal commission for the exclusive right of trade, but his

associates were wholly disheartened by the competition and consequent

losses of the last year, and had the sagacity to see that there was no hope

of a remedy in the future. They accordingly declined to continue further

expenditures. De Monts purchased their interest in the establishment at

Quebec, and, notwithstanding the obstacles which had been and were still to

be encountered, was brave enough to believe that he could stem the tide

unaided and alone. He hastened to Paris to secure the much coveted

commission from the king. Important business, however, soon called him in

another direction, and the whole matter was placed in the hands of

Champlain, with the understanding that important modifications were to be

introduced into the constitution and management of the company.

The burden thus unexpectedly laid upon Champlain was not a light one. His

experience and personal knowledge led him to appreciate more fully than any

one else the difficulties that environed the enterprise of planting a

colony in New France. He saw very clearly that a royal commission merely,

with whatever exclusive rights it conferred; would in itself be ineffectual

and powerless in the present complications. It was obvious to him that the

administration must be adapted to the state of affairs that had gradually

grown up at Quebec, and that it must be sustained by powerful personal

influence.

Champlain proceeded, therefore, to draw up certain rules and regulations

which he deemed necessary for the management of the colony and the

protection of its interests. The leading characteristics of the plan were,

first, an association of which all who desired to carry on trade in New

France might become members, sharing equally in its advantages and its

burdens, its profits and its losses: and, secondly, that it should be

presided over by a viceroy of high position and commanding influence. De

Monts, who had thus far been at the head of the undertaking, was a

gentleman of great respectability, zeal, and honesty, but his name did not,

as society was constituted at that time in France, carry with it any

controlling weight with the merchants or others whose views were adverse to

his own. He was unable to carry out any plans which involved expense,

either for the exploration of the country or for the enlargement and growth

of the colony. It was necessary, in the opinion of Champlain, to place at

the head of the company a man of such exalted official and social position

that his opinions would be listened to with respect and his wishes obeyed

with alacrity.

He submitted his plan to De Monts and likewise to President Jeannin, [73] a

man venerable with age, distinguished for his wisdom and probity, and at

this time having under his control the finances of the kingdom. They both

pronounced it excellent and urged its execution.

Having thus obtained the cordial and intelligent assent of the highest

authority to his scheme, his next step was to secure a viceroy whose

exalted name and standing should conform to the requirements of his plan.

This was an object somewhat difficult to attain. It was not easy to find a

nobleman who possessed all the qualities desired. After careful

consideration, however, the Count de Soissons [74] was thought to unite

better than any other the characteristics which the office required.

Champlain, therefore, laid before the Count, through a member of the king's

council, a detailed exhibition of his plan and a map of New France executed

by himself. He soon after received an intimation from this nobleman of his

willingness to accept the office, if he should be appointed. A petition was

sent by Champlain to the king and his council, and the appointment was made

on the 8th of October, 1612, and on the 15th of the same month the Count

issued a commission appointing Champlain his lieutenant.

Before this commission had been published in the ports and the maritime

towns of France, as required by law, and before a month had elapsed,

unhappily the death of the Count de Soissons suddenly occurred at his

Château de Blandy. Henry de Bourbon, the Prince de Condé, [75] was hastily

appointed his successor, and a new commission was issued to Champlain on

the 22d of November of the same year.

The appointment of this prince carried with it the weight of high position

and influence, though hardly the character which would have been most

desirable under the circumstances. He was, however, a potent safeguard

against the final success, though not indeed of the attempt on the part of

enemies, to break up the company, or to interfere with its plans. No sooner

had the publication of the commission been undertaken, than the merchants,

who had schemes of trade in New France, put forth a powerful opposition.

The Parliamentary Court at Rouen even forbade its publication in that city,

and the merchants of St. Malo renewed their opposition, which had before

been set forth, on the flimsy ground that Jacques Cartier, the discoverer

of New France, was a native of their municipality, and therefore they had

rights prior and superior to all others.

After much delay and several journeys by Champlain to Rouen, these

difficulties were overcome. There was, indeed, no solid ground of

opposition, as none were debarred from engaging in the enterprise who were

willing to share in the burdens as well as the profits.

These delays prevented the complete organization of the company

contemplated by Champlain's new plan, but it was nevertheless necessary for

him to make the voyage to Quebec the present season, in order to keep up

the continuity of his operations there, and to renew his friendly relations

with the Indians, who had been greatly disappointed at not seeing him the

preceding year. Four vessels, therefore, were authorized to sail under the

commission of the viceroy, each of which was to furnish four men for the

service of Champlain in explorations and in aid of the Indians in their

wars, if it should be necessary.

He accordingly left Honfleur in a vessel belonging to his old friend Pont

Gravé, on the 6th of March, 1613, and arrived at Tadoussac on the 29th of

April. On the 7th of May he reached Quebec, where he found the little

colony in excellent condition, the winter having been exceedingly mild, and

agreeable, the river not having been frozen in the severest weather. He

repaired at once to the trading rendezvous at Montreal, then commonly known

as the Falls of St. Louis. He learned from a trading barque that had

preceded him, that a small band of Algonquins had already been there on

their return from a raid upon the Iroquois. They had, however, departed to

their homes to celebrate a feast, at which the torture of two captives whom

they had taken from the Iroquois was to form the chief element in the

entertainment. A few days later, three Algonquin canoes arrived from the

interior with furs, which were purchased by the French. From them they

learned that the ill treatment of the previous year, and their

disappointment at not having seen Champlain there as they had expected, had

led the Indians to abandon the idea of again coming to the rendezvous, and

that large numbers of them had gone on their usual summer's expedition

against the Iroquois.

Under these circumstances, Champlain resolved, in making his explorations,

to visit personally the Indians who had been accustomed to come to the

Falls of St. Louis, to assure them of kind treatment in the future, to

renew his alliance with them against their enemies, and, if possible, to

induce them to come to the rendezvous, where there was a large quantity of

French goods awaiting them.

It will be remembered that an ulterior purpose of the French, in making a

settlement in North America, was to enable them better to explore the

interior and discover an avenue by water to the Pacific Ocean. This shorter

passage to Cathay, or the land of spicery, had been the day-dream of all

the great navigators in this direction for more than a hundred years.

Whoever should discover it would confer a boon of untold commercial value

upon his country, and crown himself with imperishable honor. Champlain had

been inspired by this dream from the first day that he set his foot upon

the soil of New France. Every indication that pointed in this direction he

watched with care and seized upon with avidity. In 1611, a young man in the

colony, Nicholas de Vignan, had been allowed, after the trading season had

closed, to accompany the Algonquins to their distant homes, and pass the

winter with them. This was one of the methods which had before been

successfully resorted to for obtaining important information. De Vignan

returned to Quebec in the spring of 1612, and the same year to France.

Having heard apparently something of Hudson's discovery and its

accompanying disaster, he made it the basis of a story drawn wholly from

his own imagination, but which he well knew must make a strong impression

upon Champlain and all others interested in new discoveries. He stated

that, during his abode with the Indians, he had made an excursion into the

forests of the north, and that he had actually discovered a sea of salt

water; that the river Ottawa had its source in a lake from which another

river flowed into the sea in question; that he had seen on its shores the

wreck of an English ship, from which eighty men had been taken and slain by

the savages; and that they had among them an English boy, whom they were

keeping to present to him.

As was expected, this story made a strong impression upon the mind of

Champlain. The priceless object for which he had been in search so many

years seemed now within his grasp. The simplicity and directness of the

narrative, and the want of any apparent motive for deception, were a strong

guaranty of its truth. But, to make assurance doubly sure, Vignan was

cross-examined and tested in various ways, and finally, before leaving

France, was made to certify to the truth of his statement in the presence

of two notaries at Rochelle. Champlain laid the story before the Chancellor

de Sillery, the President Jeannin, the old Marshal de Brissac, and others,

who assured him that it was a question of so great importance, that he

ought at once to test the truth of the narrative by a personal exploration.

He resolved, therefore, to make this one of the objects of his summer's

excursion.

With two bark canoes, laden with provisions, arms, and a few trifles as

presents for the savages, an Indian guide, four Frenchmen, one of whom was

the mendacious Vignan, Champlain left the rendezvous at Montreal on the

27th of May. After getting over the Lachine Rapids, they crossed Lake St.

Louis and the Two Mountains, and, passing up the Ottawa, now expanding into

a broad lake and again contracting into narrows, whence its pent-up waters

swept over precipices and boulders in furious, foaming currents, they at

length, after incredible labor, reached the island Allumette, a distance of

not less than two hundred and twenty-five miles. In no expedition which

Champlain had thus far undertaken had he encountered obstacles so

formidable. The falls and rapids in the river were numerous and difficult

to pass. Sometimes a portage was impossible on account of the denseness of

the forests, in which case they were compelled to drag their canoes by

ropes, wading along the edge of the water, or clinging to the precipitous

banks of the river as best they could. When a portage could not be avoided,

it was necessary to carry their armor, provisions, clothing, and canoes

through the forests, over precipices, and sometimes over stretches of

territory where some tornado had prostrated the huge pines in tangled

confusion, through which a pathway was almost impossible. [76] To lighten

their burdens, nearly every thing was abandoned but their canoes. Fish and

wild-fowl were an uncertain reliance for food, and sometimes they toiled on

for twenty-four hours with scarcely any thing to appease their craving

appetites.

Overcome with fatigue and oppressed by hunger, they at length arrived at

Allumette Island, the abode of the chief Tessoüat, by whom they were

cordially entertained. Nothing but the hope of reaching the north sea could

have sustained them amid the perils and sufferings through which they had

passed in reaching this inhospitable region. The Indians had chosen this

retreat not from choice, but chiefly on account of its great

inaccessibility to their enemies. They were astonished to see Champlain and

his company, and facetiously suggested that it must be a dream, or that

these new-comers had fallen from the clouds. After the usual ceremonies of

feasting and smoking, Champlain was permitted to lay before Tessoüat and

his chiefs the object of his journey. When he informed them that he was in

search of a salt sea far to the north of them, which had been actually seen

two years before by one of his companions, he learned to his disappointment

and mortification that the whole story of Vignan was a sheer fabrication.

The miscreant had indeed passed a winter on the very spot where they then

were, but had never been a league further north. The Indians themselves had

no knowledge of the north sea, and were highly enraged at the baseness of

Vignan's falsehood, and craved the opportunity of despatching him at once.

They jeered at him, calling him a liar, and even the children took up the

refrain, vociferating vigorously and heaping maledictions upon his head.

Indignant as he was, Champlain had too much philosophy in his composition

to commit an indiscretion at such a moment as this. He accordingly

restrained the savages and his own anger, bore his insult and

disappointment with exemplary patience, giving up all hope of seeing the

salt sea in this direction, as he humorously added, "except in

imagination."

Before leaving Allumette Island on his return, Champlain invited Tessoüat

to send a trading expedition to the Falls of St. Louis, where he would find

an ample opportunity for an exchange of commodities. The invitation was

readily accepted, and information was at once sent out to the neighboring

chiefs, requesting them to join in the enterprise. The savages soon began

to assemble, and when Champlain left, he was accompanied by forty canoes

well laden with furs; others joined them at different points on the way,

and on reaching Montreal the number had swollen to eighty.

An incident occurred on their journey down the river worthy of record. When

the fleet of savage fur-traders had arrived at the foot of the Chaudière

Falls, not a hundred rods distant from the site of the present city of

Ottawa, having completed the portage, they all assembled on the shore,

before relaunching their canoes, to engage in a ceremony which they never

omitted when passing this spot. A wooden plate of suitable dimensions was

passed round, into which each of the savages cast a small piece of tobacco.

The plate was then placed on the ground, in the midst of the company, and

all danced around it, singing at the same time. An address was then made by

one of the chiefs, setting forth the great importance of this time-honored

custom, particularly as a safeguard and protection against their enemies.

Then, taking the plate, the speaker cast its contents into the boiling

cauldron at the base of the falls, the act being accompanied by a loud

shout from the assembled multitude. This fall, named the _Chaudière_, or

cauldron, by Champlain, formed in fact the limit above which the Iroquois

rarely if ever went in hostile pursuit of the Algonquins. The region above

was exceedingly difficult of approach, and from which it was still more

difficult, in case of an attack, to retreat. But the Iroquois often

lingered here in ambush, and fell upon the unsuspecting inhabitants of the

upper Ottawa as they came down the river. It was, therefore, a place of

great danger; and the Indians, enslaved by their fears and superstitions,

did not believe it possible to make a prosperous journey, without

observing, as they passed, the ceremonies above described.

On reaching Montreal, three additional ships had arrived from France with a

license to carry on trade from the Prince de Condé, the viceroy, making

seven in all in port. The trade with the Indians for the furs brought in

the eighty canoes, which had come with Champlain to Montreal, was soon

despatched. Vignan was pardoned on the solemn promise, a condition offered

by himself, that he would make a journey to the north sea and bring back a

true report, having made a most humble confession of his offence in the

presence of the whole colony and the Indians, who were purposely assembled

to receive it. This public and formal administration of reproof was well

adapted to produce a powerful effect upon the mind of the culprit, and

clearly indicates the moderation and wisdom, so uniformly characteristic of

Champlain's administration.

The business of the season having been completed, Champlain returned to

France, arriving at St. Malo on the 26th of August, 1613. Before leaving,

however, he arranged to send back with the Algonquins who had come from

Isle Allumette two of his young men to pass the winter, for the purpose, as

on former occasions, of learning the language and obtaining the information

which comes only from an intimate and prolonged association.

ENDNOTES:

73. Pierre Jeannin was born at Autun, in 1540, and died about 1622. He

began the practice of law at Dijon, in 1569. Though a Catholic, he

always counselled tolerant measures in the treatment of the

Protestants. By his influence he prevented the massacre of the

Protestants at Dijon in 1572. He was a Councillor, and afterward

President, of the Parliament of Dijon. He was the private adviser of

the Duke of Mayenne. He united himself with the party of the League in

1589. He negotiated the peace between Mayenne and Henry IV. The king

became greatly attached to him, and appointed him a Councillor of State

and Superintendent of Finances. He held many offices and did great

service to the State. After the death of the king, Marie de Médicis,

the regent, continued him as Superintendent of Finances.

74. Count de Soissons, Charles de Bourbon, was born at Nogent-le-Rotrou, in

1556, and died Nov. 1, 1612. He was educated in the Catholic religion.

He acted for a time with the party of the League, but, falling in love

with Catherine, the sister of Henry IV., better to secure his object he

abandoned the League and took a military command under Henry III., and

distinguished himself for bravery when the king was besieged in Tours.

After the death of the king, he espoused the cause of Henry IV., was

made Grand Master of France, and took part in the siege of Paris. He

attempted a secret marriage with Catherine, but was thwarted; and the

unhappy lovers were compelled, by the Duke of Sully, to renounce their

matrimonial intentions. He had been Governor of Dauphiny, and, at the

time of his death, was Governor of Normandy, with a pension of 50,000

crowns.

75. Prince de Condé, Henry de Bourbon II., the posthumous son of the first

Henry de Bourbon, was born at Saint Jean d'Angely, in 1588. He married,

in 1609, Charlotte Marguerite de Montmorency, the sister of Henry, the

Duke de Montmorency, who succeeded him as the Viceroy of New France. To

avoid the impertinent gallantries of Henry IV., who had fallen in love

with this beautiful Princess, Condé and his wife left France, and did

not return till the death of the king. He headed a conspiracy against

the Regent, Marie de Médicis, and was thrown into prison on the first

of September, 1616, where he remained three years. Influenced by

ambition, and more particularly by his avarice, he forced his son

Louis, Le Grand Condé, to marry the niece of Cardinal Richelieu, Claire

Clémence de Maillé-Brézé. He did much to confer power and influence

upon his family, largely through his avarice, which was his chief

characteristic. The wit of Voltaire attributes his crowning glory to

his having been the father of the great Condé. During the detention of

the Prince de Condé in prison, the Mareschal de Thémins was Acting

Viceroy of New France, having been appointed by Marie de Médicis, the

Queen Regent.--_Vide Voyages du Sieur de Champlain_, Paris, 1632, p.

211.

76. In making the portage from what is now known as Portage du Fort to

Muskrat Lake, a distance of about nine miles, Champlain, though less

heavily loaded than his companions, carried three French arquebusses,

three oars, his cloak, and some small articles, and was at the same

time bitterly oppressed by swarms of hungry and insatiable mosquitoes.

On the old portage road, traversed by Champlain and his party at this

time, in 1613, an astrolabe, inscribed 1603, was found in 1867. The

presumptive evidence that this instrument was lost by Champlain is

stated in a brochure by Mr. O. H. Marshall.--_Vide Magazine of American

History_ for March, 1879.

CHAPTER VIII.

CHAMPLAIN OBTAINS MISSIONARIES FOR NEW FRANCE.--MEETS THE INDIANS AT

MONTREAL AND ENGAGES IN A WAR AGAINST THE IROQUOIS.--HIS JOURNEY TO THE

HURONS, AND WINTER IN THEIR COUNTRY.

During the whole of the year 1614, Champlain remained in France, occupied

for the most part in adding new members to his company of associates, and

in forming and perfecting such plans as were clearly necessary for the

prosperity and success of the colony. His mind was particularly absorbed in

devising means for the establishment of the Christian faith in the wilds of

America. Hitherto nothing whatever had been done in this direction, if we

except the efforts of Poutrincourt on the Atlantic coast, which had already

terminated in disaster. [77] No missionary of any sort had hitherto set

his foot upon that part of the soil of New France lying within the Gulf of

St. Lawrence. [78] A fresh interest had been awakened in the mind of

Champlain. He saw its importance in a new light. He sought counsel and

advice from various persons whose wisdom commended them to his attention.

Among the rest was Louis Houêl, an intimate friend, who held some office

about the person of the king, and who was the chief manager of the salt

works at Brouage. This gentleman took a hearty interest in the project, and

assured Champlain that it would not be difficult to raise the means of

sending out three or four Fathers, and, moreover, that he knew some of the

order of the Recollects, belonging to a convent at Brouage, whose zeal he

was sure would be equal to the undertaking. On communicating with them, he

found them quite ready to engage in the work. Two of them were sent to

Paris to obtain authority and encouragement from the proper sources. It

happened that about this time the chief dignitaries of the church were in

Paris, attending a session of the Estates. The bishops and cardinals were

waited upon by Champlain, and their zeal awakened and their co-operation

secured in raising the necessary means for sustaining the mission. After

the usual negotiations and delays, the object was fully accomplished;

fifteen hundred _livres_ were placed in the hands of Champlain for outfit

and expenses, and four Recollect friars embarked with him at Honfleur, on

the ship "St. Étienne," on the 24th of April, 1615, viz., Denis Jamay, Jean

d'Olbeau, Joseph le Caron, and the lay-brother Pacifique du Plessis. [79]

On their arrival at Quebec, Champlain addressed himself immediately to the

preparation of lodgings for the missionaries and the erection of a chapel

for the celebration of divine service. The Fathers were impatient to enter

the fields of labor severally assigned to them. Joseph le Caron was

appointed to visit the Hurons in their distant forest home, concerning

which he had little or no information; but he nevertheless entered upon the

duty with manly courage and Christian zeal. Jean d'Olbeau assumed the

mission to the Montagnais, embracing the region about Tadoussac and the

river Saguenay, while Denis Jamay and Pacifique du Plessis took charge of

the chapel at Quebec.

At the earliest moment possible Champlain hastened to the rendezvous at

Montreal, to meet the Indians who had already reached there on their annual

visit for trade. The chiefs were in raptures of delight on seeing their old

friend again, and had a grand scheme to propose. They had not forgotten

that Champlain had often promised to aid them in their wars. They

approached the subject, however, with moderation and diplomatic wisdom.

They knew perfectly well that the trade in peltry was greatly desired, in

fact that it was indispensable to the French. The substance of what they

had to say was this. It had become now, if not impossible, exceedingly

hazardous, to bring their furs to market. Their enemies, the Iroquois, like

so many prowling wolves, were sure to be on their trail as they came down

the Ottawa, and, incumbered with their loaded canoes, the struggle must be

unequal, and it was nearly impossible for them ever to be winners. The only

solution of the difficulty known to them, or which they cared to consider,

as in all Indian warfare, was to annihilate their enemies utterly and wipe

out their name for ever. Let this be done, and the fruits of peace would

return, their commerce would be safe, prosperous, and greatly augmented.

Such were the reasons presented by the allies. But there were other

considerations, likewise, which influenced the mind of Champlain. It was

necessary to maintain a close and firm alliance with the Indians in order

to extend the French discoveries and domain into new and more distant

regions, and on this extension of French influence depended their hope of

converting the savages to the Christian faith. The force of these

considerations could not be resisted. Champlain decided that, under the

circumstances, it was necessary to give them the desired assistance.

A general assembly was called, and the nature and extent of the campaign

fully considered. It was to be of vastly greater proportions than any that

had hitherto been proposed. The Indians offered to furnish two thousand

five hundred and fifty men, but they were to be gathered together from

different and distant points. The journey must, therefore, be long and

perilous. The objective point, viz., a celebrated Iroquois fort, could not

be reached by the only feasible route in a less distance than eight hundred

or nine hundred miles, and it would require an absence of three or four

months. Preparations for the journey were entered upon at once. Champlain

visited Quebec to make arrangements for his long absence. On his return to

Montreal, the Indians, impatient of delay, had already departed, and Father

Joseph le Caron had gone with them to his distant field of missionary labor

among the Hurons.

On the 9th of July, 1615, Champlain embarked, taking with him an

interpreter, probably Etienne Brûlé, a French servant, and ten savages,

who, with their equipments, were to be accommodated in two canoes. They

entered the Rivière des Prairies, which flows into the St. Lawrence some

leagues east of Montreal, crossing the Lake of the Two Mountains, passed up

the Ottawa, taking the same route which he had traversed some years before,

revisiting its long succession of reaches, its placid lakes, impetuous

rapids, and magnificent falls, and at length arrived at the point where the

river, by an abrupt angle, begins to flow from the northwest. Here, leaving

the Ottawa, they entered the Mattawan, passing down this river into Lac du

Talon, thence into Lac la Tortue, and by a short portage, into Lake

Nipissing. After remaining here two days, entertained generously by the

Nipissingian chiefs, they crossed the lake, and, following the channel of

French River, entered Lake Huron, or rather the Georgian Bay. They coasted

along until they reached the northern limits of the county of Simcoe. Here

they disembarked and entered the territory of their old friends and allies,

the Hurons.

The domain of this tribe consisted of a peninsula formed by the Georgian

Bay, the river Severn, and Lake Simcoe, at the farthest, not more than

forty by twenty-five miles in extent, but more generally cultivated by the

native population, and of a richer soil than any region hitherto explored

north of the St. Lawrence and the lakes. They visited four of their

villages and were cordially received and feasted on Indian corn, squashes,

and fish, with some variety in the methods of cooking. They then proceeded

to Carhagouha, [80] a town fortified with a triple palisade of wood

thirty-five feet in height. Here they found the Recollect Father Joseph Le

Caron, who, having preceded them but a few days, and not anticipating the

visit, was filled with raptures of astonishment and joy. The good Father

was intent upon his pious work. On the 12th of August, surrounded by his

followers, he formally erected a cross as a symbol of the faith, and on the

same day they celebrated the mass and chanted TE DEUM LAUDAMUS for the

first time.

Lingering but two days, Champlain and ten of the French, eight of whom had

belonged to the suite of Le Caron, proceeded slowly towards Cahiagué, [81]

the rendezvous where the mustering hosts of the savage warriors were to set

forth together upon their hostile excursion into the country of the

Iroquois. Of the Huron villages visited by them, six are particularly

mentioned as fortified by triple palisades of wood. Cahiagué, the capital,

encircled two hundred large cabins within its wooden walls. It was situated

on the north of Lake Simcoe, ten or twelve miles from this body of water,

surrounded by a country rich in corn, squashes, and a great variety of

small fruits, with plenty of game and fish. When the warriors had mostly

assembled, the motley crowd, bearing their bark canoes, meal, and

equipments on their shoulders, moved down in a southwesterly direction till

they reached the narrow strait that unites Lake Chouchiching with Lake

Simcoe, where the Hurons had a famous fishing weir. Here they remained some

time for other more tardy bands to join them. At this point they despatched

twelve of the most stalwart savages, with the interpreter, Étienne Brûlé,

on a dangerous journey to a distant tribe dwelling on the west of the Five

Nations, to urge them to hasten to the fort of the Iroquois, as they had

already received word from them that they would join them in this campaign.

Champlain and his allies soon left the fishing weir and coasted along the

northeastern shore of Lake Simcoe until they reached its most eastern

border, when they made a portage to Sturgeon Lake, thence sweeping down

Pigeon and Stony Lakes, through the Otonabee into Rice Lake, the River

Trent, the Bay of Quinté, and finally rounding the eastern point of Amherst

Island, they were fairly on the waters of Lake Ontario, just as it merges

into the great River St. Lawrence, and where the Thousand Islands begin to

loom into sight. Here they crossed the extremity of the lake at its outflow

into the river, pausing at this important geographical point to take the

latitude, which, by his imperfect instruments, Champlain found to be 43

deg. north. [82]

Sailing down to the southern side of the lake, after a distance, by their

estimate, of about fourteen leagues, they landed and concealed their canoes

in a thicket near the shore. Taking their arms, they proceeded along the

lake some ten miles, through a country diversified with meadows, brooks,

ponds, and beautiful forests filled with plenty of wild game, when they

struck inland, apparently at the mouth of Little Salmon River. Advancing in

a southerly direction, along the course of this stream, they crossed Oneida

River, an outlet of the lake of the same name. When within about ten miles

of the fort which they intended to capture, they met a small party of

savages, men, women, and children, bound on a fishing excursion. Although

unarmed, nevertheless, according to their custom, they took them all

prisoners of war, and began to inflict the usual tortures, but this was

dropped on Champlain's indignant interference. The next day, on the 10th of

October, they reached the great fortress of the Iroquois, after a journey

of four days from their landing, a distance loosely estimated at from

twenty-five to thirty leagues. Here they found the Iroquois in their

fields, industriously gathering in their autumnal harvest of corn and

squashes. A skirmish ensued, in which several were wounded on both sides.

The fort, a drawing of which has been left us by Champlain, was situated a

few miles south of the eastern terminus of Oneida Lake, on a small stream

that winds its way in a northwesterly direction, and finally loses itself

in the same body of water. This rude military structure was hexagonal in

form, one of its sides bordering immediately upon a small pond, while four

of the other laterals, two on the right and two on the left were washed by

a channel of water flowing along their bases. [83] The side opposite the

pond alone had an unobstructed land approach. As an Indian military work,

it was of great strength. It was made of the trunks of trees, as large as

could be conveniently transported. These were set in the ground, forming

four concentric palisades, not more than six inches apart, thirty feet in

height, interlaced and bound together near the top, supporting a gallery of

double paling extending around the whole enclosure, proof not only against

the flint-headed arrows of the Indian, but against the leaden bullets of

the French arquebus. Port-holes were opened along the gallery, through

which effective service could be done upon assailants by hurling stones and

other missiles with which they were well provided. Gutters were laid along

between the palisades to conduct water to every part of the fortification

for extinguishing fire, in case of need.

It was obvious to Champlain that this fort was a complete protection to the

Iroquois, unless an opening could be made in its walls. This could not be

easily done by any force which he and his allies had at their command. His

only hope was in setting fire to the palisades on the land side. This

required the dislodgement of the enemy, who were posted in large numbers on

the gallery, and the protection of the men in kindling the fire, and

shielding it, when kindled, against the extinguishing torrents which could

be poured from the water-spouts and gutters of the fort. He consequently

ordered two instruments to be made with which he hoped to overcome these

obstacles. One was a wooden tower or frame-work, dignified by Champlain as

a _cavalier_, somewhat higher than the palisades, on the top of which was

an enclosed platform where three or four sharp-shooters could in security

clear the gallery, and thus destroy the effective force of the enemy. The

other was a large wooden shield, or _mantelet_, under the protection of

which they could in safety approach and kindle a fire at the base of the

fort, and protect the fire thus kindled from being extinguished by water

coming from above.

When all was in readiness, two hundred savages bore the framed tower and

planted it near the palisades. Three arquebusiers mounted it and poured a

deadly fire upon the defenders on the gallery. The battle now began and

raged fiercely for three hours, but Champlain strove in vain to carry out

any plan of attack. The savages rushed to and fro in a frenzy of

excitement, filling the air with their discordant yells, observing no

method and heeding no commands. The wooden shields were not even brought

forward, and the burning of the fort was undertaken with so little judgment

and skill that the fire was instantly extinguished by the fountains of

water let loose by the skilful defenders through the gutters and

water-spouts of the fort.

The sharp-shooters on the tower killed and wounded a large number, but

nevertheless no effective impression was made upon the fortress. Two chiefs

and fifteen men of the allies were wounded, while one was killed, or died

of wounds received in a skirmish before the formal attack upon the fort

began. After a frantic and desultory fight of three hours, the attacking

savages lost their courage and began to clamor for a retreat. No

persuasions could induce them to renew the attack.

After lingering four days in vain expectation of the arrival of the allies

to whom Brûlé had been sent, the retreat began. Champlain had been wounded

in the knee and leg, and was unable to walk. Litters in the form of baskets

were fabricated, into which the wounded were packed in a constrained and

uncomfortable attitude, and carried on the shoulders of the men. As the

task of the carriers was lightened by frequent relays, and, as there was

little baggage to impede their progress, the march was rapid. In three days

they had reached their canoes, which had remained in the place of their

concealment near the shore of the lake, an estimated distance of

twenty-five or thirty leagues from the fort.

Such was the character of a great battle among the contending savages, an

undisciplined host, without plan or well-defined purpose, rushing in upon

each other in the heat of a sudden frenzy of passion, striking an aimless

blow, and following it by a hasty and cowardly retreat. They had, for the

time being at least, no ulterior design. They fought and expected no

substantial reward of their conflict. The sweetness of personal revenge and

the blotting out a few human lives were all they hoped for or cared at this

time to attain. The invading party had apparently destroyed more than they

had themselves lost, and this was doubtless a suitable reward for the

hazards and hardships of the campaign.

The retreating warriors lingered ten days on the shore of Lake Ontario, at

the point where they had left their canoes, beguiling the time in preparing

for hunting and fishing excursions, and for their journey to their distant

homes. Champlain here took occasion to call the attention of the allies to

their promise to conduct him safely to his home. The head of the St.

Lawrence as it flows from the Ontario is less than two hundred miles from

Montreal, a journey by canoes not difficult to make. Champlain desired to

return this way, and demanded an escort. The chiefs were reluctant to grant

his request. Masters in the art of making excuses, they saw many

insuperable obstacles. In reality, they did not desire to part with him,

but wished to avail themselves of his knowledge, counsel, and personal aid

against their enemies. When one obstacle after another gave way, and when

volunteers were found ready to accompany him, no canoes could be spared for

the journey. This closed the debate. Champlain was not prepared for the

exposure and hardship of a winter among the savages, but there was left to

him no choice. He submitted as gracefully as he could, and with such

patience as necessity made it possible for him to command.

The bark flotilla was at length ready to leave the borders of the present

State of New York. According to their usual custom in canoe navigation,

they crept along the shore of the Ontario, revisiting an island at the

eastern extremity of the lake, not unlikely the same place where Champlain

had stopped to take the latitude a few weeks before. Crossing over from the

island to the mainland on the north, they appear to have continued up the

Cataraqui Creek east of Kingston, and, after a short portage, entered

Loughborough Lake, a sheet of water then renowned as a resort of waterfowl

in vast numbers and varieties. Having bagged all they desired, they

proceeded inland twenty or thirty miles, to the objective point of their

excursion, which was a famous hunting-ground for wild game. Here they

constructed a deer-trap, an enclosure into which the unsuspecting animals

were beguiled and from which it was impossible for them to escape.

Deer-hunting was of all pursuits, if we except war, the most exciting to

the Indians. It not only yielded the richest returns to their larder, and

supplied more fully other domestic wants, but it possessed the element of

fascination, which has always given zest and inspiration to the sportsman.

They lingered here thirty-eight days, during which time they captured one

hundred and twenty deer. They purposely prolonged their stay that the frost

might seal up the marshes, ponds, and rivers over which they were to pass.

Early in December they began to arrange into convenient packages their

peltry and venison, the fat of which was to serve as butter in their rude

huts during the icy months of winter. On the 4th of the month they broke

camp and began their weary march, each savage bearing a burden of not less

than a hundred pounds, while Champlain himself carried a package of about

twenty. Some of them constructed rude sledges, on which they easily dragged

their luggage over the ice and snow. During the progress of the journey, a

warm current came sweeping up from the south, melted the ice, flooded the

marshes, and for four days the overburdened and weary travellers struggled

on, knee-deep in mud and water and slush. Without experience, a lively

imagination alone can picture the toil, suffering, and exposure of a

journey through the tangled forests and half-submerged bogs and marshes of

Canada, in the most inclement season of the year.

At length, on the 23d of December, after nineteen days of excessive toil,

they arrived at Cahiagué, the chief town of the Hurons, the rendezvous of

the allied tribes, whence they had set forth on the first of September,

nearly four months before, on what may seem to us a bootless raid. To the

savage warriors, however, it doubtless seemed a different thing. They had

been enabled to bring home valuable provisions, which were likely to be

important to them when an unsuccessful hunt might, as it often did, leave

them nearly destitute of food. They had lost but a single man, and this was

less than they had anticipated, and, moreover, was the common fortune of

war. They had invaded the territory and made their presence felt in the

very home of their enemies, and could rejoice in having inflicted upon them

more injury than they had themselves received. Though they had not captured

or annihilated them, they had done enough to inspire and fully sustain

their own grovelling pride.

To Champlain even, although the expedition had been accompanied by hardship

and suffering and some disappointments, it was by no means a failure. He

had explored an interesting and important region; he had gone where

European feet had never trod, and had seen what European eyes had never

seen; he had, moreover, planted the lilies of France in the chief Indian

towns, and at all suitable and important points, and these were to be

witnesses of possession and ownership in what his exuberant imagination saw

as a vast French empire rising into power and opulence in the western

world.

It was now the last week in December, and the deep snows and piercing cold

rendered it impossible for Champlain or even the allied warriors to

continue their journey further. The Algonquins and Nipissings became guests

of the Hurons for the winter, encamping within their principal walled town,

or perhaps in some neighboring village not far removed.

After the rest of a few days at Cahiagué, where he had been hospitably

entertained, Champlain took his departure for Carhagouha, a smaller

village, where his friend the Recollect Father, Joseph le Caron, had taken

up his abode as the pioneer missionary to the Hurons. It was important for

Le Caron to obtain all the information possible, not only of the Hurons,

but of all the surrounding tribes, as he contemplated returning to France

the next summer to report to his patrons upon the character, extent, and

hopefulness of the missionary field which he had been sent out to explore.

Champlain was happy to avail himself of his company in executing the

explorations which he desired to make.

They accordingly set out together on the 15th of January, and penetrated

the trackless and snow-bound forests, and, proceeding in a western

direction, after a journey of two days reached a tribe called _Petuns_, an

agricultural people, similar in habits and mode of life to the Hurons. By

them they were hospitably received, and a great festival, in which all

their neighbors participated, was celebrated in honor of their new guests.

Having visited seven or eight of their villages, the explorers pushed

forward still further west, when they came to the settlement of an

interesting tribe, which they named _Cheveux-Relevés_, or the "lofty

haired," an appellation suggested by the mode of dressing their hair.

On their return from this expedition, they found, on reaching the

encampment of the Nipissings, who were wintering in the Huron territory,

that a disagreement had arisen between the Hurons and their Algonquin

guests, which had already assumed a dangerous character. An Iroquois

captive taken in the late war had been awarded to the Algonquins, according

to the custom of dividing the prisoners among the several bands of allies,

and, finding him a skilful hunter, they resolved to spare his life, and had

actually adopted him as one of their tribe. This had offended the Hurons,

who expected he would be put to the usual torture, and they had

commissioned one of their number, who had instantly killed the unfortunate

prisoner by plunging a knife into his heart. The assassin, in turn, had

been set upon by the Algonquins and put to death on the spot. The

perpetrators of this last act had regretted the occurrence, and had done

what they could to heal the breach by presents: but there was,

nevertheless, a smouldering feeling of hostility still lingering in both

parties, which might at any moment break out into open conflict.

It was obvious to Champlain that a permanent disagreement between these two

important allies would be a great calamity to themselves as well as

disastrous to his own plans. It was his purpose, therefore, to bring them,

if possible, to a cordial pacification. Proceeding cautiously and with

great deliberation, he made himself acquainted with all the facts of the

quarrel, and then called an assembly of both parties and clearly set before

them in all its lights the utter foolishness of allowing a circumstance of

really small importance to interfere with an alliance between two great

tribes; an alliance necessary to their prosperity, and particularly in the

war they were carrying on against their common enemy, the Iroquois. This

appeal of Champlain was so convincing that when the assembly broke up all

professed themselves entirely satisfied, although the Algonquins were heard

to mutter their determination never again to winter in the territory of the

Hurons, a wise and not unnatural conclusion.

Champlain's constant intercourse with these tribes for many months in their

own homes, his explorations, observations, and inquiries, enabled him to

obtain a comprehensive, definite, and minute knowledge of their character,

religion, government, and mode of life. As the fruit of these

investigations, he prepared in the leisure of the winter an elaborate

memoir, replete with discriminating details, which is and must always be an

unquestionable authority on the subject of which it treats.

ENDNOTES:

77. De Poutrincourt obtained a confirmation from Henry IV. of the gift to

him of Port Royal by De Monts, and proceeded to establish a colony

there in 1608. In 1611, a Jesuit mission was planted by the Fathers

Pierre Biard and Enemond Massé. It was chiefly patronized by a bevy of

ladies, under the leadership of the Marchioness de Guerchville, in

close association with Marie de Médicis, the queen-regent, Madame de

Verneuil, and Madame de Soudis. Although De Poutrincourt was a devout

member of the Roman Church, the missionaries were received with

reluctance, and between them and the patentee and his lieutenant there

was a constant and irrepressible discord. The lady patroness, the

Marchioness de Guerchville, determined to abandon Port Royal and plant

a new colony at Kadesquit, on the site of the present city of Bangor,

in the State of Maine. A colony was accordingly organized, which

included the fathers, Quentin and Lalemant with the lay brother,

Gilbert du Thet, and arrived at La Hève in La Cadie, on the 6th of May,

1613, under the conduct of Sieur de la Saussaye. From there they

proceeded to Port Royal, took the two missionaries, Biard and Massé, on

board, and coasted along the borders of Maine till they came to Mount

Desert, and finally determined to plant their colony on that island. A

short time after the arrival of the colony, before they were in any

condition for defence, Captain Samuel Argall, from the English colony

in Virginia, suddenly appeared, and captured and transported the whole

colony, and subsequently that at Port Royal, on the alleged ground that

they were intruders on English soil. Thus disastrously ended

Poutrincourt's colony at Port Royal, and the Marchioness de

Guerchville's mission at Mount Desert.--_Vide Voyages par le Sr. de

Champlain_, Paris ed. 1632, pp. 98-114. _Shea's Charlevoix_, Vol. I.

pp. 260-286.

78. Champlain had tried to induce Madame de Guerchville to send her

missionaries to Quebec, to avoid the obstacles which they had

encountered at Port Royal; but, for the simple reason that De Monts was

a Calvinist, she would not listen to it.--_Vide Shea's Charlevoix_,

Vol. I. p. 274; _Voyages du Sieur de Champlain_, Paris ed. 1632, pp.

112, 113.

79. _Vide Histoire du Canada, par Gabriel Sagard_, Paris, 1636, pp. 11-12.

80. _Carhagouha_, named by the French _Saint Gabriel_. Dr. J. C. Taché, of

Ottawa, Canada, who has given much attention to the subject, fixes this

village in the central part of the present township of Tiny, in the

county of Simcoe.--_MS. Letter_, Feb. 11, 1880.

81. _Cahiagué_. Dr. Taché places this village on the extreme eastern limit

of the township of Orillia, in the same county, in the bend of the

river Severn, a short distance after it leaves Lake Couchiching. The

Indian warriors do not appear to have launched their flotilla of bark

canoes until they reached the fishing station at the outlet of Lake

Simcoe. This village was subsequently known as _Saint-Jean Baptiste_.

82. The latitude of Champlain is here far from correct. It is not possible

to determine the exact place at which it was taken. It could not,

however have been at a point much below 44 deg. 7'.

83. There has naturally been some difficulty in fixing satisfactorily the

site of the Iroquois fort attacked by Champlain and his allies.

The sources of information on which we are to rely in identifying the

site of this fort are in general the same that we resort to in fixing

any locality mentioned in his explorations, and are to be found in

Champlain's journal of this expedition, the map contained in what is

commonly called his edition of 1632, and the engraved picture of the

fort executed by Champlain himself, which was published in connection

with his journal. The information thus obtained is to be considered in

connection with the natural features of the country through which the

expedition passed, with such allowance for inexactness as the history,

nature, and circumstances of the evidence render necessary.

The map of 1632 is only at best an outline, drafted on a very small

scale, and without any exact measurements or actual surveys. It

pictures general features, and in connection with the journal may be of

great service.

Champlain's distances, as given in his journal, are estimates made

under circumstances in which accuracy was scarcely possible. He was

journeying along the border of lakes and over the face of the country,

in company with some hundreds of wild savages, hunting and fishing by

the way, marching in an irregular and desultory manner, and his

statements of distances are wisely accompanied by very wide margins,

and are of little service, taken alone, in fixing the site of an Indian

town. But when natural features, not subject to change, are described,

we can easily comprehend the meaning of the text.

The engraving of the fort may or may not have been sketched by

Champlain on the spot: parts of it may have been and doubtless were

supplied by memory, and it is decisive authority, not in its minor, but

in its general features.

With these observations, we are prepared to examine the evidence that

points to the site of the Iroquois fort.

When the expedition, emerging from Quinté Bay, arrived at the eastern

end of Lake Ontario, at the point where the lake ends and the River St.

Lawrence begins, they crossed over the lake, passing large and

beautiful islands. Some of these islands will be found laid down on the

map of 1632. They then proceeded, a distance, according to their

estimation, of about fourteen leagues, to the southern side of Lake

Ontario, where they landed and concealed their canoes. The distance to

the southern side of the lake is too indefinitely stated, even if we

knew at what precise point the measurement began, to enable us to fix

the exact place of the landing.

They marched along the sandy shore about four leagues, and then struck

inland. If we turn to the map of 1632, on which a line is drawn to

rudely represent their course, we shall see that on striking inland

they proceeded along the banks of a small river to which several small

lakes or ponds are tributary. Little Salmon River being fed by numerous

small ponds or lakes may well be the stream figured by Champlain. The

text says they discovered an excellent country along the lake before

they struck inland, with fine forest-trees, especially the chestnut,

with abundance of vines. For several miles along Lake Ontario on the

north-east of Little Salmon River the country answers to this

description.--_Vide MS. Letters of the Rev. James Cross, D.D., LL.D._,

and of S. D. Smith, _Esq._, of Mexico, N.Y.

The text says they continued their course about twenty-five or thirty

leagues. This again is indefinite, allowing a margin of twelve or

fifteen miles; but the text also says they crossed a river flowing from

a lake in which were certain beautiful islands, and moreover that the

river so crossed discharged into Lake Ontario. The lake here referred

to must be the Oneida, since that is the only one in the region which

contains any islands whatever, and therefore the river they crossed

must be the Oneida River, flowing from the lake of the same name into

Lake Ontario.

Soon after they crossed Oneida River, they met a band of savages who

were going fishing, whom they made prisoners. This occurred, the text

informs us, when they were about four leagues from the fort. They were

now somewhere south of Oneida Lake. If we consult the map of 1632, we

shall find represented on it an expanse of water from which a stream is

represented as flowing into Lake Ontario, and which is clearly Oneida

Lake, and south of this lake a stream is represented as flowing from

the east in a northwesterly direction and entering this lake towards

its western extremity, which must be Chittenango Creek or one of its

branches. A fort or enclosed village is also figured on the map, of

such huge dimensions that it subtends the angle formed by the creek and

the lake, and appears to rest upon both. It is plain, however, from the

text that the fort does not rest upon Oneida Lake; we may infer

therefore that it rested upon the creek figured on the map, which from

its course, as we have already seen, is clearly intended to represent

Chittenango Creek or one of its branches. A note explanatory of the map

informs us that this is the village where Champlain went to war against

the "Antouhonorons," that is to say, the Iroquois. The text informs us

that the fort was on a pond, which furnished a perpetual supply of

water. We therefore look for the site of the ancient fort on some small

body of water connected with Chittenango Creek.

If we examine Champlain's engraved representation of the fort, we shall

see that it is situated on a peninsula, that one side rests on a pond,

and that two streams pass it, one on the right and one on the left, and

that one side only has an unobstructed land-approach. These channels of

water coursing along the sides are such marked characteristics of the

fort as represented by Champlain, that they must be regarded as

important features in the identification of its ancient site.

On Nichols's Pond, near the northeastern limit of the township of

Fenner in Madison County, N.Y., the site of an Indian fort was some

years since discovered, identified as such by broken bits of pottery

and stone implements, such as are usually found in localities of this

sort. It is situated on a peculiarly formed peninsula, its northern

side resting on Nichols's Pond, while a small stream flowing into the

pond forms its western boundary, and an outlet of the pond about

thirty-two rods east of the inlet, running in a south-easterly

direction, forms the eastern limit of the fort. The outlet of this

pond, deflecting to the east and then sweeping round to the north, at

length finds its way in a winding course into Cowashalon Creek, thence

into the Chittenango, through which it flows into Oneida Lake, at a

point north-west of Nichols's Pond.

If we compare the geographical situation of Champlain's fort as figured

on his map of 1632, particularly with reference to Oneida Lake, we

shall observe a remarkable correspondence between it and the site of

the Indian fort at Nichols's Pond. Both are on the south of Oneida

Lake, and both are on streams which flow into that lake by running in a

north-westerly direction. Moreover, the site of the old fort at

Nichols's Pond is situated on a peninsula like that of Champlain; and

not only so, but it is on a peninsula formed by a pond on one side, and

by two streams of water on two other opposite sides; thus fulfilling in

a remarkable degree the conditions contained in Champlain's drawing of

the fort.

If the reader has carefully examined and compared the evidences

referred to in this note, he will have seen that all the distinguishing

circumstances contained in the text of Champlain's journal, on the map

of 1632, and in his drawing of the fort, converge to and point out this

spot on Nichols's Pond as the probable site of the palisaded Iroquois

town attacked by Champlain in 1615.

We are indebted to General John S. Clark, of Auburn, N.Y., for pointing

out and identifying the peninsula at Nichols's Pond as the site of the

Iroquois fort.--_Vide Shea's Notes on Champlain's Expedition into

Western New York in 1615, and the Recent Identification of the Fort_,

by General John S Clark, _Pennsylvania Magazine of History_,

Philadelphia, Vol. II. pp. 103-108; also _A Lost Point in History_, by

L. W. Ledyard, _Cazenovia Republican_, Vol. XXV. No 47; _Champlain's

Invasion of Onondaga_, by the Rev. W. M. Beauchamp, _Baldwinsville

Gazette_, for June 27, 1879.

We are indebted to Orsamus H. Marshall, Esq., of Buffalo, N.Y., for

proving the site of the Iroquois fort to be in the neighborhood of

Oneida Lake, and not at a point farther west as claimed by several

authors.--_Vide Proceedings of the New York Historical Society_ for

1849, p. 96; _Magazine of American History_, New York, Vol. I. pp.

1-13, Vol. II. pp. 470-483.

CHAPTER IX.

CHAMPLAIN'S RETURN FROM THE HURON COUNTRY AND VOYAGE TO FRANCE.--THE

CONTRACTED VIEWS OF THE COMPANY OF MERCHANTS.--THE PRINCE DE CONDÉ SELLS

THE VICEROYALTY TO THE DUKE DE MONTMORENCY.--CHAMPLAIN WITH HIS WIFE

RETURNS TO QUEBEC, WHERE HE REMAINS FOUR YEARS.--HAVING REPAIRED THE

BUILDINGS AND ERECTED THE FORTRESS OF ST. LOUIS, CHAMPLAIN RETURNS TO

FRANCE.--THE VICEROYALTY TRANSFERRED TO HENRY DE LEVI, AND THE COMPANY OF

THE HUNDRED ASSOCIATES ORGANIZED.

About the 20th of May, Champlain, accompanied by the missionary, Le Caron,

escorted by a delegation of savages, set out from the Huron capital, in the

present county of Simcoe, on their return to Quebec. Pursuing the same

circuitous route by which they had come, they were forty days in reaching

the Falls of St. Louis, near Montreal, where they found Pont Gravé, just

arrived from France, who, with the rest, was much rejoiced at seeing

Champlain, since a rumor had gone abroad that he had perished among the

savages.

The party arrived at Quebec on the 11th of July. A public service of

thanksgiving was celebrated by the Recollect Fathers for their safe return.

The Huron chief, D'Arontal, with whom Champlain had passed the winter and

who had accompanied him to Quebec, was greatly entertained and delighted

with the establishment of the French, the buildings and other accessories

of European life, so different from his own, and earnestly requested

Champlain to make a settlement at Montreal, that his whole tribe might come

and reside near them, safe under their protection against their Iroquois

enemies.

Champlain did not remain at Quebec more than ten days, during which he

planned and put in execution the enlargement of their houses and fort,

increasing their capacity by at least one third. This he found necessary to

do for the greater convenience of the little colony, as well as for the

occasional entertainment of strangers. He left for France on the 20th day

of July, in company with the Recollect Fathers, Joseph le Caron and Denis

Jamay, the commissary of the mission, taking with them specimens of French

grain which had been produced near Quebec, to testify to the excellent

quality of the soil. They arrived at Honfleur in France on the 10th of

September, 1616.

The exploration in the distant Indian territories which we have just

described in the preceding pages was the last made by Champlain. He had

plans for the survey of other regions yet unexplored, but the favorable

opportunity did not occur. Henceforth he directed his attention more

exclusively than he had hitherto done to the enlargement and strengthening

of his colonial plantation, without such success, we regret to say, as his

zeal, devotion, and labors fitly deserved. The obstacles that lay in his

way were insurmountable. The establishment or factory, we can hardly call

it a plantation, at Quebec, was the creature of a company of merchants.

They had invested considerable sums in shipping, buildings, and in the

employment of men, in order to carry on a trade in furs and peltry with the

Indians, and they naturally desired remunerative returns. This was the

limit of their purpose in making the investment. The corporators saw

nothing in their organization but a commercial enterprise yielding

immediate results. They were inspired by no generosity, no loyalty, or

patriotism that could draw from them a farthing to increase the wealth,

power, or aggrandizement of France. Under these circumstances, Champlain

struggled on for years against a current which he could barely direct, but

by no means control.

Champlain made voyages to New France both in 1617 and in 1618. In the

latter year, among the Indians who came to Quebec for the purpose of trade,

appeared Étienne Brulé, the interpreter, who it will be remembered had been

despatched in 1615, when Champlain was among the Hurons, to the

Entouhonorons at Carantouan, to induce them to join in the attack of the

Iroquois in central New York. During the three years that had intervened,

nothing had been heard from him. Brulé related the story of his

extraordinary adventures, which Champlain has preserved, and which may be

found in the report of the voyage of 1618, in Volume III. of this work.

[84]

At Quebec, he met numerous bands of Indians from remote regions, whom he

had visited in former years, and who, in fulfilment of their promises, had

come to barter their peltry for such commodities as suited their need or

fancy, and to renew and strengthen their friendship with the French. By

these repeated interviews, and the cordial reception and generous

entertainment which he always gave them, the Indians dwelling on the upper

waters of the Ottawa, along the borders of Lake Huron, or on the Georgian

Bay, formed a strong personal attachment to Champlain, and yearly brought

down their fleets of canoes heavily freighted with the valuable furs which

they had diligently secured during the preceding winter. His personal

influence with them, a power which he exercised with great delicacy,

wisdom, and fidelity, contributed largely to the revenues annually obtained

by the associated merchants.

But Champlain desired more than this. He was not satisfied to be the agent

and chief manager of a company organized merely for the purpose of trade.

He was anxious to elevate the meagre factory at Quebec into the dignity and

national importance of a colonial plantation. For this purpose he had

tested the soil by numerous experiments, and had, from time to time,

forwarded to France specimens of ripened grain to bear testimony to its

productive quality. He even laid the subject before the Council of State,

and they gave it their cordial approbation. By these means giving emphasis

to his personal appeals, he succeeded at length in extorting from the

company a promise to enlarge the establishment to eighty persons, with

suitable equipments, farming implements, all kinds of feeds and domestic

animals, including cattle and sheep. But when the time came, this promise

was not fulfilled. Differences, bickerings, and feuds sprang up in the

company. Some wanted one thing, and some wanted another. Even religion cast

in an apple of discord. The Catholics wished to extend the faith of their

church into the wilds of Canada, while the Huguenots desired to prevent it,

or at least not to promote it by their own contributions. The company,

inspired by avarice and a desire to restrict the establishment to a mere

trading post, raised an issue to discredit Champlain. It was gravely

proposed that he should devote himself exclusively to exploration, and that

the government and trade should henceforth be under the direction and

control of Pont Gravé. But Champlain was not a man to be ejected from an

official position by those who had neither the authority to give it to him

or the power to take it away. Pont Gravé was his intimate, long-tried, and

trusted friend; and, while he regarded him with filial respect and

affection, he could not yield, even to him, the rights and honors which had

been accorded to him as a recognition, if not a reward, for many years of

faithful service, which he had rendered under circumstances of personal

hardship and danger. The king addressed a letter to the company, in which

he directed them to aid Champlain as much as possible in making

explorations, in settling the country, and cultivating the soil, while with

their agents in the traffic of peltry there should be no interference. But

the spirit of avarice could not be subdued by the mandate of the king. The

associated merchants were still, obstinate. Champlain had intended to take

his family to Canada that year, but he declined to make the voyage under

any implication of a divided authority. The vessel in which he was to sail

departed without him, and Pont Gravé spent the winter in charge of the

company's affairs at Quebec.

Champlain, in the mean time, took such active measures as seemed necessary

to establish his authority as lieutenant of the viceroy, or governor of New

France. He appeared before the Council of State at Tours, and after an

elaborate argument and thorough discussion of the whole subject, obtained a

decree ordering that he should have the command at Quebec and at all other

settlements in New France, and that the company should abstain from any

interference with him in the discharge of the duties of his office.

The Prince de Condé having recently been liberated from an imprisonment of

three years, governed by his natural avarice, was not unwilling to part

with his viceroyalty, and early in 1620 transferred it, for the

consideration of eleven thousand crowns, or about five hundred and fifty

pounds sterling, to his brother-in-law, the Duke de Montmorency, [85] at

that time high-admiral of France. The new viceroy appointed Champlain his

lieutenant, who immediately prepared to leave for Quebec. But when he

arrived at Honfleur, the company, displeased at the recent change, again

brought forward the old question of the authority which the lieutenant was

to exercise in New France. The time for discussion had, however, passed. No

further words were now to be wasted. The viceroy sent them a peremptory

order to desist from further interferences, or otherwise their ships,

already equipped for their yearly trade, would not be permitted to leave

port. This message from the high-admiral of France came with authority and

had the desired effect.

Early in May, 1620, Champlain sailed from Honfleur, accompanied by his wife

and several Recollect friars, and, after a voyage of two months, arrived at

Tadoussac, where he was cordially greeted by his brother-in-law, Eustache

Boullé, who was very much astonished at the arrival of his sister, and

particularly that she was brave enough to encounter the dangers of the

ocean and take up her abode in a wilderness at once barren of both the

comforts and refinements of European life.

On the 11th of July, Champlain left Tadoussac for Quebec, where he found

the whole establishment, after an absence of two years, in a condition of

painful neglect and disorder. He was cordially received, and becoming

ceremonies were observed to celebrate his arrival. A sermon composed for

the occasion was delivered by one of the Recollect Fathers, the commission

of the king and that of the viceroy appointing him to the sole command of

the colony were publicly read, cannon were discharged, and the little

populace, from loyal hearts, loudly vociferated _Vive le Roy!_

The attention of the lieutenant was at first directed to restoration and

repairs. The roof of the buildings no longer kept out the rain, nor the

walls the piercing fury of the winds. The gardens were in a state of

ruinous neglect, and the fields poorly and scantily cultivated. But the

zeal, energy, and industry of Champlain soon put every thing in repair, and

gave to the little settlement the aspect of neatness and thrift. When this

was accomplished, he laid the foundations of a fortress, which he called

the _Fort Saint Louis_, situated on the crest of the rocky elevation in the

rear of the settlement, about a hundred and seventy-two feet above the

surface of the river, a position which commanded the whole breadth of the

St. Lawrence at that narrow point.

This work, so necessary for the protection and safety of the colony,

involving as it did some expense, was by no means satisfactory to the

Company of Associates. [86] Their general fault-finding and chronic

discontent led the Duke de Montmorency to adopt heroic measures to silence

their complaints. In the spring of 1621, he summarily dissolved the

association of merchants, which he denominated the "Company of Rouen and

St. Malo," and established another in its place. He continued Champlain in

the office of lieutenant, but committed all matters relating to trade to

William de Caen, a merchant of high standing, and to Émeric de Caen the

nephew of the former, a good naval captain. This new and hasty

reorganization, arbitrary if not illegal, however important it might seem

to the prosperity and success of the colony, laid upon Champlain new

responsibilities and duties at once delicate and difficult to discharge.

Though in form suppressed, the company did not yield either its existence

or its rights. Both the old and the new company were, by their agents,

early in New France, clamoring for their respective interests. De Caen, in

behalf of the new, insisted that the lieutenant ought to prohibit all trade

with the Indians by the old company, and, moreover, that he ought to seize

their property and hold it as security for their unpaid obligations.

Champlain, having no written authority for such a proceeding, and De Caen,

declining to produce any, did not approve the measure and declined to act.

The threats of De Caen that he would take the matter into his own hands,

and seize the vessel of the old company commanded by Pont Gravé and then in

port, were so violent that Champlain thought it prudent to place a body of

armed men in his little fort still unfinished, until the fury of the

altercation should subside. [87] This decisive measure, and time, the

natural emollient of irritated tempers, soon restored peace to the

contending parties, and each was allowed to carry on its trade unmolested

by the other. The prudence of Champlain's conduct was fully justified, and

the two companies, by mutual consent, were, the next year, consolidated

into one.

Champlain remained at Quebec four years before again returning to France.

His time was divided between many local enterprises of great importance.

His special attention was given to advancing the work on the unfinished

fort, in order to provide against incursions of the hostile Iroquois, [88]

who at one time approached the very walls of Quebec, and attacked

unsuccessfully the guarded house of the Recollects on the St. Charles. [89]

He undertook the reconstruction of the buildings of the settlement from

their foundations. The main structure was enlarged to a hundred and eight

feet [90] in length, with two wings of sixty feet each, having small towers

at the four corners. In front and on the borders of the river a platform

was erected, on which were placed cannon, while the whole was surrounded by

a ditch spanned by drawbridges.

Having placed every thing at Quebec in as good order as his limited means

would permit, and given orders for the completion of the works which he had

commenced, leaving Émeric de Caen in command, Champlain determined to

return to France with his wife, who, though devoted to a religious life, we

may well suppose was not unwilling to exchange the rough, monotonous, and

dreary mode of living at Quebec for the more congenial refinements to which

she had always been accustomed in her father's family near the court of

Louis XIII. He accordingly sailed on the 15th of August, and arrived at

Dieppe on the 1st of October, 1624. He hastened to St. Germain, and

reported to the king and the viceroy what had occurred and what had been

done during the four years of his absence.

The interests of the two companies had not been adjusted and they were

still in conflict. The Duke de Montmorency about this time negotiated a

sale of his viceroyalty to his nephew, Henry de Levi, Duke de Ventadour.

This nobleman, of a deeply religious cast of mind, had taken holy orders,

and his chief purpose in obtaining the viceroyalty was to encourage the

planting of Catholic missions in New France. As his spiritual directors

were Jesuits, he naturally committed the work to them. Three fathers and

two lay brothers of this order were sent to Canada in 1625, and others

subsequently joined them. Whatever were the fruits of their labors, many of

them perished in their heroic undertaking, manfully suffering the exquisite

pains of mutilation and torture.

Champlain was reappointed lieutenant, but remained in France two years,

fully occupied with public and private duties, and in frequent

consultations with the viceroy as to the best method of advancing the

future interests of the colony. On the 15th of April, 1626, with Eustache

Boullé, his brother-in-law, who had been named his assistant or lieutenant,

he again sailed for Quebec, where he arrived on the 5th of July. He found

the colonists in excellent health, but nevertheless approaching the borders

of starvation, having nearly exhausted their provisions. The work that he

had laid out to be done on the buildings had been entirely neglected. One

important reason for this neglect, was the necessary employment of a large

number of the most efficient laborers, for the chief part of the summer in

obtaining forage for their cattle in winter, collecting it at a distance of

twenty-five or thirty miles from the settlement. To obviate this

inconvenience, Champlain took an early opportunity to erect a farm-house

near the natural meadows at Cape Tourmente, where the cattle could be kept

with little attendance, appointing at the same time an overseer for the

men, and making a weekly visit to this establishment for personal

inspection and oversight.

The fort, which had been erected on the crest of the rocky height in the

rear of the dwelling, was obviously too small for the protection of the

whole colony in case of an attack by hostile savages. He consequently took

it down and erected another on the same spot, with earthworks on the land

side, where alone, with difficulty, it could be approached. He also made

extensive repairs upon the storehouse and dwelling.

During the winter of 1626-27, the friendly Indians, the Montagnais,

Algonquins, and others gave Champlain much anxiety by unadvisedly entering

into an alliance, into which they were enticed by bribes, with a tribe

dwelling near the Dutch, in the present State of New York, to assist them

against their old enemies, the Iroquois, with whom, however, they had for

some time been at peace. Champlain justly looked upon this foolish

undertaking as hazardous not only to the prosperity of these friendly

tribes, but to their very existence. He accordingly sent his brother-in-law

to Three Rivers, the rendezvous of the savage warriors, to convince them of

their error and avert their purpose. Boullé succeeded in obtaining a delay

until all the tribes should be assembled and until the trading vessels

should arrive from France. When Émeric de Caen was ready to go to Three

Rivers, Champlain urged upon him the great importance of suppressing this

impending conflict with the Iroquois. The efforts of De Caen were, however,

ineffectual. He forthwith wrote to Champlain that his presence was

necessary to arrest these hostile proceedings. On his arrival, a grand

council was assembled, and Champlain succeeded, after a full statement of

all the evils that must evidently follow, in reversing their decision, and

messengers were sent to heal the breach. Some weeks afterward news came

that the embassadors were inhumanly massacred.

Crimes of a serious nature were not unfrequently committed against the

French by Indians belonging to tribes, with which they were at profound

peace. On one occasion two men, who were conducting cattle by land from

Cape Tourmente to Quebec, were assassinated in a cowardly manner. Champlain

demanded of the chiefs that they should deliver to him the perpetrators of

the crime. They expressed genuine sorrow for what had taken place, but were

unable to obtain the criminals. At length, after consulting with the

missionary, Le Caron, they offered to present to Champlain three young

girls as pledges of their good faith, that he might educate them in the

religion and manners of the French. The gift was accepted by Champlain, and

these savage maidens became exceedingly attached to their foster-father, as

we shall see in the sequel.

The end of the year 1627 found the colony, as usual, in a depressed state.

As a colony, it had never prospered. The average number composing it had

not exceeded about fifty persons. At this time it may have been somewhat

more, but did not reach a hundred. A single family only appears to have

subsisted by the cultivation of the soil. [91] The rest were sustained by

supplies sent from France. From the beginning disputes and contentions had

prevailed in the corporation. Endless bickerings sprung up between the

Huguenots and Catholics, each sensitive and jealous of their rights. [92]

All expenditures were the subject of censorious criticism. The necessary

repairs of the fort, the enlargement and improvement of the buildings from

time to time, were too often resisted as unnecessary and extravagant. The

company, as a mere trading association, was doubtless successful. Large

quantities of peltry were annually brought by the Indians for traffic to

the Falls of St. Louis, Three Rivers, Quebec, and Tadoussac. The average

number of beaver-skins annually purchased and transported to France was

probably not far from fifteen thousand to twenty thousand, and in a most

favorable year it mounted up to twenty-two thousand. [93] The large

dividends that they were able to make, intimated by Champlain to be not far

from forty per centum yearly, were, of course, highly satisfactory to the

company. They desired not to impair this characteristic of their

enterprise. They had, therefore, a prime motive for not wishing to lay out

a single unnecessary franc on the establishment. Their policy was to keep

the expenses at the minimum and the net income at the maximum. Under these

circumstances, nearly twenty years had elapsed since the founding of

Quebec, and it still possessed only the character of a trading post, and

not that of a colonial plantation. This progress was satisfactory neither

to Champlain, to the viceroy, nor the council of state. In the view of

these several interested parties, the time had come for a radical change in

the organization of the company. Cardinal de Richelieu had risen by his

extraordinary ability as a statesman, a short time anterior to this, into

supreme authority, and had assumed the office of grand master and chief of

the navigation and commerce of France. His sagacious and comprehensive mind

saw clearly the intimate and interdependent relations between these two

great national interests and the enlargement and prosperity of the French

colonies in America. He lost no time in organizing measures which should

bring them into the closest harmony. The company of merchants whose

finances had been so skilfully managed by the Caens was by him at once

dissolved. A new one was formed, denominated _La Compagnie de la

Nouvelle-France_, consisting of a hundred or more members, and commonly

known as the Company of the Hundred Associates. It was under the control

and management of Richelieu himself. Its members were largely gentlemen in

official positions about the court, in Paris, Rouen, and other cities of

France. Among them were the Marquis Deffiat, superintendent of finances,

Claude de Roquemont, the Commander de Razilly, Captain Charles Daniel,

Sébastien Cramoisy, the distinguished Paris printer, Louis Houêl, the

controller of the salt works in Brouage, Champlain, and others well known

in public circles.

The new company had many characteristics which seemed to assure the solid

growth and enlargement of the colony. Its authority extended over the whole

domain of New France and Florida. It provided in its organization for an

actual capital of three hundred thousand livres. It entered into an

obligation to send to Canada in 1628 from two to three hundred artisans of

all trades, and within the space of fifteen years to transport four

thousand colonists to New France. The colonists were to be wholly supported

by the company for three years, and at the expiration of that period were

to be assigned as much land as they needed for cultivation. The settlers

were to be native-born Frenchmen, exclusively of the Catholic faith, and no

foreigner or Huguenot was to be permitted to enter the country. [94] The

charter accorded to the company the exclusive control of trade and all

goods manufactured in New France were to be free of imposts on exportation.

Besides these, it secured to the corporators other and various exclusive

privileges of a semifeudal character, supposed, however, to contribute to

the prosperity and growth of the colony.

The organization of the company, having received the formal approbation of

Richelieu on the 29th of April, 1627, was ratified by the Council of State

on the 6th of May, 1628.

ENDNOTES:

84. The character of Étienne Brulé, either for honor or veracity, is not

improved by his subsequent conduct. He appears in 1629 to have turned

traitor, to have sold himself to the English, and to have piloted them

up the river in their expedition against Quebec. Whether this conduct,

base certainly it was, ought to affect the credibility of his story,

the reader must judge. Champlain undoubtedly believed it when he first

related it to him. He probably had no means then or afterwards of

testing its truth. In the edition of 1632, Brulé's story is omitted. It

does not necessarily follow that it was omitted because Champlain came

to discredit the story, since many passages contained in his preceding

publications are omitted in the edition of 1632, but they are not

generally passages of so much geographical importance as this, if it be

true. The map of 1632 indicates the country of the Carantouanais; but

this information might have been obtained by Champlain from the Hurons,

or the more western tribes which he visited during the winter of

1615-16.--_Vide_ ed. 1632, p. 220.

85. Henry de Montmorency II was born at Chantilly in 1595, and was beheaded

at Toulouse Oct 30, 1632. He was created admiral at the age of

seventeen. He commanded the Dutch fleet at the siege of Rochelle. He

made the campaigns of 1629 and 1630 in Piedmont, and was created a

marshal of France after the victory of Veillane. He adopted the party

of Gaston, the Duke of Orleans, and having excited the province of

Languedoc of which he was governor to rebellion, he was defeated, and

executed as guilty of high treason. He was the last scion of the elder

branch of Montmorency and his death was a fatal blow to the reign of

feudalism.

86. Among other annoyances which Champlain had to contend against was the

contraband trade carried on by the unlicensed Rochellers, who not only

carried off quantities of peltry, but even supplied the Indians with

fire-arms and ammunition. This was illegal, and endangered the safety of

the colony--_Vide Voyages par De Champlain_, Paris, 1632, Sec Partie, p

3.

87. _Vide_ ed 1632, Sec Partie, Chap III.

88. _Vide Hist. New France_, by Charlevoix, Shea's. Trans., Vol. II. p. 32.

89. The house of the Recollects on the St. Charles was erected in 1620, and

was called the _Conuent de Nostre Dame Dame des Anges_. The Father Jean

d'Olbeau laid the first stone on the 3d of June of that year.--_Vide

Histoire du Canada_ par Gabriel Sagard, Paris, 1636, Tross ed., 1866,

p. 67; _Découvertes et Êtablissements des Français, dans l'ouest et dans

le sud de L'Amerique Septentrionale_ 1637, par Pierre Margry, Paris,

1876, Vol. I. p. 7.

90. _Hundred and eight feet_, dix-huit toyses. The _toise_ here estimated

at six feet. Compare _Voyages de Champlain_, Laverdière's ed., Vol. I.

p. lii, and ed. 1632, Paris, Partie Seconde, p. 63.

91. There was but one private house at Quebec in 1623, and that belonged to

Madame Hébert, whose husband was the first to attempt to obtain a

living by the cultivation of the soil.--_Vide Sagard, Hist, du Canada_,

1636, Tross ed. Vol. I. p. 163. There were fifty-one inhabitants at

Quebec in 1624, including men, women, and children.--_Vide Champlain_,

ed. 1632, p. 76.

92. _Vide Champlain_, ed. 1632, pp. 107, 108, for an account of the attempt

on the part of the Huguenot, Émeric de Caen, to require his sailors to

chaunt psalms and say prayers on board his ship after entering the

River St. Lawrence, contrary to the direction of the Viceroy, the Duke

de Ventadour. As two thirds of them were Huguenots, it was finally

agreed that they should continue to say their prayers, but must omit

their psalm-singing.

93. Father Lalemant enumerates the kind of peltry obtained by the French

from the Indians, and the amount, as follows. "En eschange ils

emportent des peaux d'Orignac, de Loup Ceruier, de Renard, de Loutre,

et quelquefois il s'en rencontre de noires, de Martre, de Blaireau et

de Rat Musqué, mais principalement de Castor qui est le plus grand de

leur gain. On m'a dit que pour vne année ils en auoyent emporté iusques

à 22000. L'ordinaire de chaque année est de 15000, ou 20000, à une

pistole la pièce, ce n'est pas mal allé."--_Vide Rélation de la

Nouvelle France en l'Année_ 1626, Quebec ed. p. 5.

94. This exclusiveness was characteristic of the age. Cardinal Richelieu

and his associates were not qualified by education or by any tendency

of their natures to inaugurate a reformation in this direction. The

experiment of amalgamating Catholic and Huguenot in the enterprises of

the colony had been tried but with ill success. Contentions and

bickerings had been incessant, and subversive of peace and good

neighborhood. Neither party had the spirit of practical toleration as

we understand it, and which we regard at the present day as a priceless

boon. Nor was it understood anywhere for a long time afterward. Even

the Puritans of Massachusetts Bay did not comprehend it, and took

heroic measures to exclude from their commonwealth those who differed

from them in their religious faith. We certainly cannot censure them

for not being in advance of their times. It would doubtless have been

more manly in them had they excluded all differing from them by plain

legal enactment, as did the Society of the Hundred Associates, rather

than to imprison or banish any on charges which all subsequent

generations must pronounce unsustained.--_Vide Memoir of the Rev. John

Wheelwright_, by Charles H. Bell, Prince Society, ed. 1876, pp. 9-31

_et passim; Hutchinson Papers_, Prince Society ed., 1865, Vol. I. pp.

79-113. American _Criminal Trials_, by Peleg W. Chandler, Boston, 1841,

Vol. I. p. 29.

CHAPTER X.

THE FAVORABLE PROSPECTS OF THE COMPANY OF NEW FRANCE.--THE ENGLISH INVASION

OF CANADA AND THE SURRENDER OF QUEBEC--CAPTAIN DANIEL PLANTS A FRENCH

COLONY NEAR THE GRAND CIBOU--CHAMPLAIN IN FRANCE, AND THE TERRITORIAL

CLAIMS OF THE FRENCH AND ENGLISH STILL UNSETTLED

The Company of New France, or of the Hundred Associates, lost no time in

carrying out the purpose of its organization. Even before the ratification

of its charter by the council, four armed vessels had been fitted out and

had already sailed under the command of Claude de Roquemont, a member of

the company, to convoy a fleet of eighteen transports laden with emigrants

and stores, together with one hundred and thirty-five pieces of ordnance to

fortify their settlements in New France.

The company, thus composed of noblemen, wealthy merchants, and officials of

great personal influence, with a large capital, and Cardinal Richelieu, who

really controlled and shaped the policy of France at that period, at its

head possessed so many elements of strength that, in the reasonable

judgment of men, success was assured, failure impossible. [95]

To Champlain, the vision of a great colonial establishment in New France,

that had so long floated before him in the distance, might well seem to be

now almost within his grasp. But disappointment was near at hand. Events

were already transpiring which were destined to cast a cloud over these

brilliant hopes. A fleet of armed vessels was already crossing the

Atlantic, bearing the English flag, with hostile intentions to the

settlements in New France. Here we must pause in our narrative to explain

the origin, character, and purpose of this armament, as unexpected to

Champlain as it was unwelcome.

The reader must be reminded that no boundaries between the French and

English territorial possessions in North America at this time existed. Each

of these great nations was putting forth claims so broad and extensive as

to utterly exclude the other. By their respective charters, grants, and

concessions, they recognized no sovereignty or ownership but their own.

Henry IV. of France, made, in 1603, a grant to a favorite nobleman, De

Monts, of the territory lying between the fortieth and the forty-sixth

degrees of north latitude. James I. of England, three years later, in 1606,

granted to the Virginia Companies the territory lying between the

thirty-fourth and the forty-eighth degrees of north latitude, covering the

whole grant made by the French three years before. Creuxius, a French

historian of Canada, writing some years later than this, informs us that

New France, that is, the French possessions in North America, then embraced

the immense territory extending from Florida, or from the thirty-second

degree of latitude, to the polar circle, and in longitude from Newfoundland

to Lake Huron. It will, therefore, be seen that each nation, the English

and the French, claimed at that time sovereignty over the same territory,

and over nearly the whole of the continent of North America. Under these

circumstances, either of these nations was prepared to avail itself of any

favorable opportunity to dispossess the other.

The English, however, had, at this period, particular and special reasons

for desiring to accomplish this important object. Sir William Alexander,

[96] Secretary of State for Scotland at the court of England, had received,

in 1621, from James I., a grant, under the name of New Scotland, of a large

territory, covering the present province of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and

that part of the province of Quebec lying east of a line drawn from the

head-waters of the River St. Croix in a northerly direction to the River

St. Lawrence. He had associated with him a large number of Scottish

noblemen and merchants, and was taking active measures to establish

Scottish colonies on this territory. The French had made a settlement

within its limits, which had been broken up and the colony dispersed in

1613, by Captain Samuel Argall, under the authority of Sir Thomas Dale,

governor of the colony at Jamestown, Virginia. A desultory and straggling

French population was still in occupation, under the nominal governorship

of Claude La Tour. Sir William Alexander and his associates naturally

looked for more or less inconvenience and annoyance from the claims of the

French. It was, therefore, an object of great personal importance and

particularly desired by him, to extinguish all French claims, not only to

his own grant, but to the neighboring settlement at Quebec. If this were

done, he might be sure of being unmolested in carrying forward his colonial

enterprise.

A war had broken out between France and England the year before, for the

ostensible purpose, on the part of the English, of relieving the Huguenots

who were shut up in the city of Rochelle, which was beleaguered by the

armies of Louis XIII, under the direction of his prime minister, Richelieu,

who was resolved to reduce this last stronghold to obedience. The existence

of this war offered an opportunity and pretext for dispossessing the French

and extinguishing their claims under the rules of war. This object could

not be attained in any other way. The French were too deeply rooted to be

removed by any less violent or decisive means. No time was, therefore, lost

in taking advantage of this opportunity.

Sir William Alexander applied himself to the formation of a company of

London merchants who should bear the expense of fitting out an armament

that should not only overcome and take possession of the French settlements

and forts wherever they should be found, but plant colonies and erect

suitable defences to hold them in the future. The company was speedily

organized, consisting of Sir William Alexander, junior, Gervase Kirke,

Robert Charlton, William Berkeley, and perhaps others, distinguished

merchants of London. [97] Six ships were equipped with a suitable armament

and letters of marque, and despatched on their hostile errand. Capt. David

Kirke, afterwards Sir David, was appointed admiral of the fleet, who

likewise commanded one of the ships. [98] His brothers, Lewis Kirke and

Thomas Kirke, were in command of two others. They sailed under a royal

patent executed in favor of Sir William Alexander, junior, son of the

secretary, and others, granting exclusive authority to trade, seize, and

confiscate French or Spanish ships and destroy the French settlements on

the river and Gulf of St. Lawrence and parts adjacent.

Kirke sailed, with a part if not the whole of his fleet, to Annapolis Basin

in the Bay of Fundy, and took possession of the desultory French settlement

to which we have already referred. He left a Scotch colony there, under the

command of Sir William Alexander, junior, as governor. The fleet finally

rendezvoused at Tadoussac, capturing all the French fishing barques, boats,

and pinnaces which fell in its way on the coast of Nova Scotia, including

the Island of Cape Breton.

From Tadoussac, Kirke despatched a shallop to Quebec, in charge of six

Basque fishermen whom he had recently captured. They were bearers of an

official communication from the admiral of the English fleet to Champlain.

About the same time he sent up the river, likewise, an armed barque, well

manned, which anchored off Cape Tourmente, thirty miles below Quebec, near

an outpost which had been established by Champlain for the convenience of

forage and pasturage for cattle. Here a squad of men landed, took four men,

a woman, and little girl prisoners, killed such of the cattle as they

desired for use and burned the rest in the stables, as likewise two small

houses, pillaging and laying waste every thing they could find. Having done

this, the barque hastily returned to Tadoussac.

We must now ask the reader to return with us to the little settlement at

Quebec. The proceedings which we have just narrated were as yet unknown to

Champlain. The summer of 1628 was wearing on, and no supplies had arrived

from France. It was obvious that some accident had detained the transports,

and they might not arrive at all. His provisions were nearly exhausted. To

subsist without a resupply was impossible. Each weary day added a new

keenness to his anxiety. A winter of destitution, of starvation and death

for his little colony of well on towards a hundred persons was the painful

picture that now constantly haunted his mind. To avoid this catastrophe, if

possible, he ordered a boat to be constructed, to enable him to communicate

with the lower waters of the gulf, where he hoped he might obtain

provisions from the fishermen on the coast, or transportation for a part or

the whole of his colony to France.

On the 9th of July, two men came up from Cape Tourmente to announce that an

Indian had brought in the news that six large ships had entered and were

lying at anchor in the harbor of Tadoussac. The same day, not long after,

two canoes arrived, in one of which was Foucher, the chief herds-man at

Cape Tourmente, who had escaped from his captors, from whom Champlain first

learned what had taken place at that outpost.

Sufficiently assured of the character of the enemy, Champlain hastened to

put the unfinished fort in as good condition as possible, appointing to

every man in the little garrison his post, so that all might be ready for

duty at a moment's warning. On the afternoon of the next day a small sail

came into the bay, evidently a stranger, directing its course not through

the usual channel, but towards the little River St. Charles. It was too

insignificant to cause any alarm. Champlain, however, sent a detachment of

arquebusiers to receive it. It proved to be English, and contained the six

Basque fishermen already referred to, charged by Kirke with despatches for

Champlain. They had met the armed barque returning to Tadoussac, and had

taken off and brought up with them the woman and little girl who had been

captured the day before at Cape Tourmente.

The despatch, written two days before, and bearing date July 8th, 1628, was

a courteous invitation to surrender Quebec into the hands of the English,

assigning several natural and cogent reasons why it would be for the

interest of all parties for them to do so. Under different circumstances,

the reasoning might have had weight; but this English admiral had clearly

conceived a very inadequate idea of the character of Champlain, if he

supposed he would surrender his post, or even take it into consideration,

while the enemy demanding it and his means of enforcing it were at a

distance of at least a hundred miles. Champlain submitted the letter to

Pont Gravé and the other gentlemen of the colony, and we concluded, he

adds, that if the English had a desire to see us nearer, they must come to

us, and not threaten us from so great a distance.

Champlain returned an answer declining the demand, couched in language of

respectful and dignified politeness. It is easy, however, to detect a tinge

of sarcasm running through it, so delicate as not to be offensive, and yet

sufficiently obvious to convey a serene indifference on the part of the

French commander as to what the English might think it best to do in the

sequel. The tone of the reply, the air of confidence pervading it, led

Kirke to believe that the French were in a far better condition to resist

than they really were. The English admiral thought it prudent to withdraw.

He destroyed all the French fishing vessels and boats at Tadoussac, and

proceeded down the gulf, to do the same along the coast.

We have already alluded, in the preceding pages, to De Roquemont, the

French admiral, who had been charged by the Company of the Hundred

Associates to convoy a fleet of transports to Canada. Wholly ignorant of

the importance of an earlier arrival at Quebec, he appears to have moved

leisurely, and was now, with his whole fleet, lying at anchor in the Bay of

Gaspé. Hearing that Kirke was in the gulf, he very unwisely prepared to

give him battle, and moved out of the bay for that purpose. On the 18th of

July the two armaments met. Kirke had six armed vessels under his command,

while De Roquemont had but four. The conflict was unequal. The English

vessels were unencumbered and much heavier than those of the French. De

Roquemont [99] was soon overpowered and compelled to surrender his whole

fleet of twenty-two vessels, with a hundred and thirty-five pieces of

ordnance, together with supplies and colonists for Quebec, were all taken.

Kirke returned to England laden with the rich spoils of his conquest,

having practically accomplished, if not what he had intended, nevertheless

that which satisfied the avarice of the London merchants under whose

auspices the expedition had sailed. The capture of Quebec had from the

beginning been the objective purpose of Sir William Alexander. The taking

of this fleet and the cutting off their supplies was an important step in

this undertaking. The conquest was thereby assured, though not completed.

Champlain, having despatched his reply to Kirke, naturally supposed he

would soon appear before Quebec to carry out his threat. He awaited this

event with great anxiety. About ten days after the messengers had departed,

a young Frenchman, named Desdames, arrived in a small boat, having been sent

by De Roquemont, the admiral of the new company, to inform Champlain that

he was then at Gaspé with a large fleet, bringing colonists, arms, stores,

and provisions for the settlement. Desdames also stated that De Roquemont

intended to attack the English, and that on his way he had heard the report

of cannon, which led him to believe that a conflict had already taken

place. Champlain heard nothing more from the lower St. Lawrence until the

next May, when an Indian from Tadoussac brought the story of De Roquemont's

defeat.

In the mean time, Champlain resorted to every expedient to provide

subsistence for his famishing colony. Even at the time when the surrender

was demanded by the English, they were on daily rations of seven ounces

each. The means of obtaining food were exceedingly slender. Fishing could

not be prosecuted to any extent, for the want of nets, lines, and hooks. Of

gunpowder they had less than fifty pounds, and a possible attack by

treacherous savages rendered it inexpedient to expend it in hunting game.

Moreover, they had no salt for curing or preserving the flesh of such wild

animals as they chanced to take. The few acres cultivated by the

missionaries and the Hébert family, and the small gardens about the

settlement, could yield but little towards sustaining nearly a hundred

persons for the full term of ten months, the shortest period in which they

could reasonably expect supplies from France. A system of the utmost

economy was instituted. A few eels were purchased by exchange of

beaver-skins from the Indians. Pease were reduced to flour first by mortars

and later by hand-mills constructed for the purpose, and made into a soup

to add flavor to other less palatable food. Thus economising their

resources, the winter finally wore away, but when the spring came, their

scanty means were entirely exhausted. Henceforth their sole reliance was

upon the few fish that could be taken from the river, and the edible roots

gathered day by day from the fields and forests. An attempt was made to

quarter some of the men upon the friendly Indians, but with little success.

Near the last of June, thirty of the colony, men, women, and children,

unwilling to remain longer at Quebec, were despatched to Gaspé, twenty of

them to reside there with the Indians, the others to seek a passage to

France by some of the foreign fishing-vessels on the coast. This detachment

was conducted by Eustache Boullé, the brother-in-law of Champlain. The

remnant of the little colony, disheartened by the gloomy prospect before

them and exhausted by hunger, continued to drag out a miserable existence,

gathering sustenance for the wants of each day, without knowing what was to

supply the demands of the next.

On the 19th of July, 1629, three English vessels were seen from the fort at

Quebec, distant not more than three miles, approaching under full sail.

[100] Their purpose could not be mistaken. Champlain called a council, in

which it was decided at once to surrender, but only on good terms;

otherwise, to resist to their utmost with such slender means as they had.

The little garrison of sixteen men, all his available force, hastened to

their posts. A flag of truce soon brought a summons from the brothers,

Lewis and Thomas Kirke, couched in courteous language, asking the surrender

of the fort and settlement, and promising such honorable and reasonable

terms as Champlain himself might dictate.

To this letter Champlain [101] replied that he had not, in his present

circumstances, the power of resisting their demand, and that on the morrow

he would communicate the conditions on which he would deliver up the

settlement; but, in the mean time, he must request them to retire beyond

cannon-shot, and not attempt to land. On the evening of the same day the

articles of capitulation were delivered, which were finally, with very

little variation, agreed to by both parties.

The whole establishment at Quebec, with all the movable property belonging

to it, was to be surrendered into the hands of the English. The colonists

were to be transported to France, nevertheless, by the way of England. The

officers were permitted to leave with their arms, clothes, and the peltries

belonging to them as personal property. The soldiers were allowed their

clothes and a beaver-robe each; the missionaries, their robes and books.

This agreement was subsequently ratified at Tadoussac by David Kirke, the

admiral of the fleet, on the 19th of August, 1629.

On the 20th of July, Lewis Kirke, vice-admiral, at the head of two hundred

armed men, [102] took formal possession of Quebec, in the name of Charles

I., the king of England. The English flag was hoisted over the Fort of St.

Louis. Drums beat and cannon were discharged in token of the accomplished

victory.

The English demeaned themselves with exemplary courtesy and kindness

towards their prisoners of war. Champlain was requested to continue to

occupy his accustomed quarters until he should leave Quebec; the holy mass

was celebrated at his request; and an inventory of what was found in the

habitation and fort was prepared and placed in his hand, a document which

proved to be of service in the sequel. The colonists were naturally anxious

as to the disposition of their lands and effects; but their fears were

quieted when they were all cordially invited to remain in the settlement,

assured, moreover, that they should have the same privileges and security

of person and property which they had enjoyed from their own government.

This generous offer of the English, and their kind and considerate

treatment of them, induced the larger part of the colonists to remain.

On the 24th of July, Champlain, exhausted by a year of distressing anxiety

and care, and depressed by the adverse proceedings going on about him,

embarked on the vessel of Thomas Kirke for Tadoussac, to await the

departure of the fleet for England. Before reaching their destination, they

encountered a French ship laden with merchandise and supplies, commanded by

Émeric de Caen, who was endeavoring to reach Quebec for the purpose of

trade and obtaining certain peltry and other property stored at that place,

belonging to his uncle, William de Caen. A conflict was inevitable. The two

vessels met. The struggle was severe, and, for a time, of doubtful result.

At length the French cried for quarter. The combat ceased. De Caen asked

permission to speak with Champlain. This was accorded by Kirke, who

informed him, if another shot were fired, it would be at the peril of his

life. Champlain was too old a soldier and too brave a man to be influenced

by an appeal to his personal fears. He coolly replied, It will be an easy

matter for you to take my life, as I am in your power, but it would be a

disgraceful act, as you would violate your sacred promise. I cannot command

the men in the ship, or prevent their doing their duty as brave men should;

and you ought to commend and not blame them.

De Caen's ship was borne as a prize into the harbor of Tadoussac, and

passed for the present into the vortex of general confiscation.

Champlain remained at Tadoussac until the fleet was ready to return to

England. In the mean time, he was courteously entertained by Sir David

Kirke. He was, however, greatly pained and disappointed that the admiral

was unwilling that he should take with him to France two Indian girls who

had been presented to him a year or two before, and whom he had been

carefully instructing in religion and manners, and whom he loved as his own

daughters. Kirke, however, was inexorable. Neither reason, entreaty, nor

the tears of the unhappy maidens could move him. As he could not take them

with him, Champlain administered to them such consolation as he could,

counselling them to be brave and virtuous, and to continue to say the

prayers that he had taught them. It was a relief to his anxiety at last to

be able to obtain from Mr. Couillard, [103] one of the earliest settlers at

Quebec, the promise that they should remain in the care of his wife, while

the girls, on their part, assured him that they would be as daughters to

their new foster-parents until his return to New France.

Quebec having been provisioned and garrisoned, the fleet sailed for England

about the middle of September, and arrived at Plymouth on the 20th of

November. On the 27th, the missionaries and others who wished to return to

France, disembarked at Dover, while Champlain was taken to London, where he

arrived on the 29th.

At Plymouth, Kirke learned that a peace between France and England had been

concluded on the 24th of the preceding April, nearly three months before

Quebec had been taken; consequently, every thing that had been done by this

expedition must, sooner or later, be reversed. The articles of peace had

provided that all conquests subsequent to the date of that instrument

should be restored. It was evident that Quebec, the peltry, and other

property taken there, together with the fishing-vessels and others captured

in the gulf, must be restored to the French. To Kirke and the Company of

London Merchants this was a bitter disappointment. Their expenditures had

been large in the first instance; the prizes of the year before, the fleet

of the Hundred Associates which they had captured, had probably all been

absorbed in the outfit of the present expedition, comprising the six

vessels and two pinnaces with which Kirke had sailed for the conquest of

Quebec. Sir William Alexander had obtained, in the February preceding, from

Charles I., a royal charter of THE COUNTRY AND LORDSHIP OF CANADA IN

AMERICA, [104] embracing a belt of territory one hundred leagues in width,

covering both sides of the St. Lawrence from its mouth to the Pacific

Ocean. This charter with the most ample provisions had been obtained in

anticipation of the taking of Quebec, and in order to pave the way for an

immediate occupation and settlement of the country. Thus a plan for the

establishment of an English colonial empire on the banks of the St.

Lawrence had been deliberately formed, and down to the present moment

offered every prospect of a brilliant success. But a cloud had now swept

along the horizon and suddenly obscured the last ray of hope. The proceeds

of their two years of incessant labor, and the large sums which they had

risked in the enterprise, had vanished like a mist in the morning sun. But,

as the cause of the English became more desperate, the hopes of the French

revived. The losses of the latter were great and disheartening; but they

saw, nevertheless, in the distance, the long-cherished New France of the

past rising once more into renewed strength and beauty.

On his arrival at London, Champlain immediately put himself in

communication with Monsieur de Châteauneuf, the French ambassador, laid

before him the original of the capitulation, a map of the country, and such

other memoirs as were needed to show the superior claims of the French to

Quebec on the ground both of discovery and occupation. [105] Many questions

arose concerning the possession and ownership of the peltry and other

property taken by the English, and, during his stay, Champlain contributed

as far as possible to the settlement of these complications. It is somewhat

remarkable that during this time the English pretended to hold him as a

prisoner of war, and even attempted to extort a ransom from him, [106]

pressing the matter so far that Champlain felt compelled to remonstrate

against a demand so extraordinary and so obviously unjust, as he was in no

sense a prisoner of war, and likewise to state his inability to pay a

ransom, as his whole estate in France did not exceed seven hundred pounds

sterling.

After having remained a month in London, Champlain was permitted to depart

for France, arriving on the last day of December.

At Dieppe he met Captain Daniel, from whom he learned that Richelieu and

the Hundred Associates had not been unmindful of the pressing wants of

their colony at Quebec. Arrangements had been made early in the year 1629

to send to Champlain succor and supplies, and a fleet had been organized to

be conducted thither by the Commander Isaac de Razilly. While preparations

were in progress, peace was concluded between France and England on the

24th of April. It was, consequently, deemed unnecessary to accompany the

transports by an armed force, and thereupon Razilly's orders were

countermanded, while Captain Daniel of Dieppe, [107] whose services had

been engaged, was sent forward with four vessels and a barque belonging to

the company, to carry supplies to Quebec. A storm scattered his fleet, but

the vessel under his immediate command arrived on the coast of the Island

of Cape Breton, and anchored on the 18th of September, _novo stylo_, in the

little harbor of Baleine, situated about six miles easterly from the

present site of Louisburgh, now famous in the annals of that island. Here

he was surprised to find a British settlement. Lord Ochiltrie, better known

as Sir James Stuart, a Scottish nobleman, had obtained a grant, through Sir

William Alexander, of the Island of Cape Breton, and had, on the 10th of

the July preceding, _novo stylo_, planted there a colony of sixty persons,

men, women, and children, and had thrown up for their protection a

temporary fort. Daniel considered this an intrusion upon French soil. He

accordingly made a bloodless capture of the fortress at Baleine, demolished

it, and, sailing to the north and sweeping round to the west, entered an

estuary which he says the savages called Grand Cibou, [108] where he

erected a fort and left a garrison of forty men, with provisions and all

necessary means of defence. Having set up the arms of the King of France

and those of Cardinal Richelieu, erected a house, chapel, and magazine, and

leaving two Jesuit missionaries, the fathers Barthélémy Vimond and

Alexander de Vieuxpont, he departed, taking with him the British colonists,

forty-two of whom he landed near Falmouth in England, and eighteen,

including Lord Ochiltrie, he carried into France. This settlement at the

Bay of St. Anne, or Port Dauphin, accidentally established and inadequately

sustained, lingered a few years and finally disappeared.

Having received the above narrative from Captain Daniel, Champlain soon

after proceeded to Paris, and laid the whole subject of the unwarrantable

proceedings of the English in detail before the king, Cardinal Richelieu,

and the Company of New France, and urged the importance of regaining

possession as early as possible of the plantation from which they had been

unjustly ejected. The English king did not hesitate at an early day to

promise the restoration of Quebec, and, in fact, after some delay, all

places which were occupied by the French at the outbreak of the war. The

policy of the English ministers appears, however, to have been to postpone

the execution of this promise as long as possible, probably with the hope

that something might finally occur to render its fulfilment unnecessary.

Sir William Alexander, the Earl of Stirling, who had very great influence

with Charles I, was particularly opposed to the restoration of the

settlement on the shores of Annapolis Basin. This fell within the limits of

the grant made to him in 1621, under the name of New Scotland, and a Scotch

colony was now in occupation. He contended that no proper French plantation

existed there at the opening of the war, and this was probably true; a few

French people were, indeed, living there, but under no recognized,

certainly no actual, authority or control of the crown of France, and

consequently they were under no obligation to restore it. But Charles I had

given his word that all places taken by the English should be restored as

they were before the war, and no argument or persuasions could change his

resolution to fulfil his promise. It was not, however, till after the lapse

of more than two years, owing, chiefly, to the opposition of Sir William

Alexander, that the restoration of Quebec and the plantation on Annapolis

Basin was fully assured by the treaty of St Germain en Laye, bearing date

March 29, 1632. The reader must be reminded that the text of the treaty

just mentioned and numerous contemporary documents show that the

restorations demanded by the French and granted by the English only related

to the places occupied by the French before the outbreak of the war, and

not to Canada or New France or to any large extent of provincial territory

whatever. [109] When the restorations were completed, the boundary lines

distinguishing the English and French possessions in America were still

unsettled, the territorial rights of both nations were still undefined, and

each continued, as they had done before the war, to claim the same

territory as a part of their respective possessions. Historians, giving to

this treaty a superficial examination, and not considering it in connection

with contemporary documents, have, from that time to the present, fallen

into the loose and unauthorized statement that, by the treaty of St.

Germain en Laye, the whole domain of Canada or New France was restored to

the French. Had the treaty of St. Germain en Laye, by which Quebec was

restored to the French, fixed accurately the boundary lines between the two

countries, it would probably have saved the expenditure of money and blood,

which continued to be demanded from time to time until, after a century and

a quarter, the whole of the French possessions were transferred, under the

arbitration of war, to the English crown.

ENDNOTES:

95. The association was a joint-stock company. Each corporator was bound to

pay in three thousand livres, and as there were over a hundred, the

quick capital amounted to over 300,000 livres.--_Vide Mercure François_,

Paris, 1628, Tome XIV. p 250. For a full statement of the organization

and constitution of the Company of New France, _Vide Mercure Francois_,

Tome XIV pp 232-267 _Vide_ also _Charlevoix's Hist. New France_, Shea's

Trans Vol. II. pp. 39-44.

96. _Vide Sir William Alexander and American Colonization_, Prince Society,

Boston, 1873.

97. _Vide Colonial Papers_, Vol. V. 87, III. We do not find the mention of

any others as belonging to the Company of Merchant Adventurers to

Canada.

98. Sir David Kirke was one of five brothers, the sons of Gervase or

Gervais Kirke, a merchant of London, and his wife, Elizabeth Goudon of

Dieppe in France. The grandfather of Sir David was Thurston Kirke of

Norton, a small town in the northern part of the county of Derby, known

as the birthplace of the sculptor Chantrey. This little hamlet had been

the home of the Kirkes for several generations. Gervase Kirke had, in

1629, resided in Dieppe for the most of the forty years preceding, and

his children were probably born there. Sir David Kirke was married to

Sarah, daughter of Sir Joseph Andrews. In early life he was a wine-

merchant at Bordeaux and Cognac. He was knighted by Charles I in 1633,

in recognition of his services in taking Quebec. On the 13th of

November, 1637, he received a grant of "the whole continent, island, or

region called Newfoundland." In 1638, he took up his residence at

Ferryland, Newfoundland, in the house built by Lord Baltimore. He was a

friend and correspondent of Archbishop Laud, to whom he wrote, in 1639,

"That the ayre of Newfoundland agrees perfectly well with all God's

creatures, except Jesuits and schismatics." He remained in Newfoundland

nearly twenty years, where he died in 1655-56, having experienced many

disappointments occasioned by his loyalty to Charles I.--_Vide Colonial

Papers_, Vol. IX. No. 76; _The First English Conquest of Canada_, by

Henry Kirke, London, 1871, _passim; Les Voyages du Sieur de Champlain_,

Paris ed. 1632, p. 257.

99. Champlain criticises with merited severity the conduct of De Roquemont,

and closes in the following words "Le merite d'un bon Capitaine n'est

pas seulement au courage, mais il doit estre accompagné de prudence,

qui est ce qui les fait estimer, comme estant suiuy de ruses,

stratagesmes, & d'inventions plusieurs auec peu ont beaucoup fait, & se

sont rendus glorieux & redoutables"--_Vide Les Voyages du Sieur de

Champlain_, ed 1632, part II p. 166.

100. On the 13th of March, 1629, letters of marque were issued to Capt.

David Kirke, Thomas Kirke, and others, in favor of the "Abigail," 300

tons, the "William," 200 tons, the "George" of London, and the

"Jarvis."

101. This correspondence is preserved by Champlain.--_Vide Les Voyages par

le Sieur de Champlain_, Paris, 1632, pp. 215-219.

102. _Vide Abstract of the Deposition of Capt. David Kirke and others_.

Calendar of State Papers, Colonial, 1574-1660, p. 103.

103. _Couillard._ Champlain writes _Coulart._ This appears to have been

William Couillard, the son in-law of Madame Hébert and one of the five

families which remained at Quebec after it was taken by the

English.--_Vide Laverdière's note, Oeuvres de Champlain_, Quebec ed

Vol. VI p. 249.

104. An English translation of this charter from the Latin original was

published by the Prince Society in 1873 _Vide Sir William Alexander

and American Colonization_, Prince Society, Boston, pp. 239-249.

105. Champlain published, in 1632, a brief argument setting forth the

claims of the French, which he entitles. _Abregé des Descouuertures de

la Nouuelle France, tant de ce que nous auons descouuert comme aussi

les Anglais, depuis les Virgines iusqu'au Freton Dauis, & de cequ'eux

& nous pouuons pretendre suiuant le rapport des Historiens qui en ont

descrit, que ie rapporte cy dessous, qui feront iuger à un chacun du

tout sans passion.--Vide_ ed. 1632, p. 290. In this paper he narrates

succinctly the early discoveries made both by the French and English

navigators, and enforces the doctrine of the superior claims of the

French with clearness and strength. It contains, probably, the

substance of what Champlain placed at this time in the hands of the

French embassador in London.

106. It is difficult to conceive on what ground this ransom was demanded

since the whole proceedings of the English against Quebec were

illegal, and contrary to the articles of peace which had just been

concluded. That such a demand was made would be regarded as

incredible, did not the fact rest upon documentary evidence of

undoubted authority.--_Vide Laverdière's_ citation from State Papers

Office, Vol. V. No. 33. Oeuvres de Champlain, Quebec ed, Vol. VI. p

1413.

107. _Vide Relation du Voyage fait par le Capitaine Daniel de Dieppe, année

1629, Les Voyages du Sieur de Champlain_, Paris, 1632, p. 271. Captain

Daniel was enrolled by Creuxius in the Society of New France or the

Hundred Associates, as _Carolus Daniel, nauticus Capitaneus_. _Vide

Historia Canadensis_ for the names of the Society of the Hundred

Associates.

108. _Cibou_. Sometimes written Chibou. "Cibou means," says Mr. J. Hammond

Trumball, "simply river in all eastern Algonkin languages."--_MS.

letter_. Nicholas Denys, in his very full itinerary of the coast of

the island of Cape Breton speaks also of the _entree du petit Chibou

ou de Labrador_. This _petit Chibou_, according to his description, is

identical with what is now known as the Little Bras d'Or, or smaller

passage to Bras d'Or Lake. It seems probable that the great Cibou of

the Indians was applied originally by them to what we now call the

Great Bras d'Or, or larger passage to Bras d'Or Lake. It is plain,

however, that Captain Daniel and other early writers applied it to an

estuary or bay a little further west than the Great Bras d'Or,

separated from it by Cape Dauphin, and now known as St. Anne's Bay. It

took the name of St. Anne's immediately on the planting of Captain

Daniel's colony, as Champlain calls it, _l'habitation saincte Anne en

l'ile du Cap Breton_ in his relation of what took place in

1631.--_Voyages_, ed. 1632, p. 298. A very good description of it by

Père Perrault may be found in _Jesuit Relations_, 1635, Quebec ed p.

42.--_Vide_, also, _Description de l'Amerique Septentrionale par

Monsieur Denys_, Paris, 1672, p. 155, where is given an elaborate

description of St Anne's Harbor. _Gransibou_ may be seen on

Champlain's map of 1632, but the map is too indefinite to aid us in

fixing its exact location.

109. _Vide Sir William Alexander and American Colonization_, Prince

Society, 1873, pp. 66-72.--_Royal Letters, Charters, and Tracts

relating to the Colonisation of New Scotland_, Bannatyne Club,

Edinburgh, 1867, p. 77 _et passim_.

CHAPTER XI.

ÉMERIC DE CAEN TAKES POSSESSION OF QUEBEC.--CHAMPLAIN PUBLISHES HIS

VOYAGES.--RETURNS TO NEW FRANCE, REPAIRS THE HABITATION, AND ERECTS A

CHAPEL.--HIS LETTER TO CARDINAL DE RICHELIEU.--CHAMPLAIN'S DEATH.

In breaking up the settlement at Quebec, the losses of the De Caens were

considerable, and it was deemed an act of justice to allow them an

opportunity to retrieve them, at least in part; and, to enable them to do

this, the monopoly of the fur-trade in the Gulf of St. Lawrence was granted

to them for one year, and, on the retirement of the English, Émeric de

Caen, as provisional governor for that period, took formal possession of

Quebec on the 13th of July, 1632. In the mean time, Champlain remained in

France, devoting himself with characteristic energy to the interests of New

France. Beside the valuable counsel and aid which he gave regarding the

expedition then fitting out and to be sent to Quebec by the Company of New

France, he prepared and carried through the press an edition of his

Voyages, comprising extended extracts from what he had already published,

and a continuation of the narrative to 1631. He also published in the same

volume a Treatise on Navigation, and a Catechism translated from the French

by one of the Fathers into the language of the Montagnais. [110]

On the 23d of March, 1633, having again been commissioned as governor,

Champlain sailed from Dieppe with a fleet of three vessels, the "Saint

Pierre," the "Saint Jean," and the "Don de Dieu," belonging to the Company

of New France, conveying to Quebec a large number of colonists, together

with the Jesuit fathers, Enemond Massé and Jean de Brébeuf. The three

vessels entered the harbor of Quebec on the 23d of May. On the announcement

of Champlain's arrival, the little colony was all astir. The cannon at the

Fort St. Louis boomed forth their hoarse welcome of his coming. The hearts

of all, particularly of those who had remained at Quebec during the

occupation of the English, were overflowing with joy. The three years'

absence of their now venerable and venerated governor, and the trials,

hardships, and discouragements through which they had in the mean time

passed, had not effaced from their minds the virtues that endeared him to

their hearts. The memory of his tender solicitude in their behalf, his

brave example of endurance in the hour of want and peril, and the sweetness

of his parting counsels, came back afresh to awaken in them new pulsations

of gratitude. Champlain's heart was touched by his warm reception and the

visible proofs of their love and devotion. This was a bright and happy day

in the calendar of the little colony.

Champlain addressed himself with his old zeal and a renewed strength to

every interest that promised immediate or future good results. He at once

directed the renovation and improvement of the habitation and fort, which,

after an occupation of three years by aliens, could not be delayed. He then

instituted means, holding councils and creating a new trading-post, for

winning back the traffic of the allied tribes, which had been of late drawn

away by the English, who continued to steal into the waters of the St.

Lawrence for that purpose. At an early day after his re-establishment of

himself at Quebec, Champlain proceeded to build a memorial chapel in close

proximity to the fort which he had erected some years before on the crest

of the rocky eminence that overlooks the harbor. He gave it the appropriate

and significant name, NOTRE DAME DE RECOUVRANCE, in grateful memory of the

recent return of the French to New France. [111] It had long been an ardent

desire of Champlain to establish a French settlement among the Hurons, and

to plant a mission there for the conversion of this favorite tribe to the

Christian faith. Two missionaries, De Brébeuf and De Nouë, were now ready

for the undertaking. The governor spared no pains to secure for them a

favorable reception, and vigorously urged the importance of their mission

upon the Hurons assembled at Quebec. [112] But at the last, when on the eve

of securing his purpose, complications arose and so much hostility was

displayed by one of the chiefs, that he thought it prudent to advise its

postponement to a more auspicious moment. With these and kindred

occupations growing out of the responsibilities of his charge, two years

soon passed away.

During the summer of 1635, Champlain addressed an interesting and important

letter to Cardinal de Richelieu, whose authority at that time shaped both

the domestic and foreign policy of France. In it the condition and

imperative wants of New France are clearly set forth. This document was

probably the last that Champlain ever penned, and is, perhaps, the only

autograph letter of his now extant. His views of the richness and possible

resources of the country, the vast missionary field which it offered, and

the policy to be pursued, are so clearly stated that we need offer no

apology for giving the following free translation of the letter in these

pages. [113]

LETTER OF CHAMPLAIN TO CARDINAL DE RICHELIEU.

MONSEIGNEUR,--The honor of the commands that I have received from your

Eminence has inspired me with greater courage to render to you every

possible service with all the fidelity and affection that can be desired

from a faithful servant. I shall spare neither my blood nor my life

whenever the occasion shall demand them.

There are subjects enough in these regions, if your Eminence, after

considering the character of the country, shall desire to extend your

authority over them. This territory is more than fifteen hundred leagues in

length, lying between the same parallels of latitude as our own France. It

is watered by one of the finest rivers in the world, into which empty many

tributaries more than four hundred leagues in length, beautifying a country

inhabited by a vast number of tribes. Some of them are sedentary in their

mode of life, possessing, like the Muscovites, towns and villages built of

wood; others are nomadic, hunters and fishermen, all longing to welcome the

French and religious fathers, that they may be instructed in our faith.

The excellence of this country cannot be too highly estimated or praised,

both as to the richness of the soil, the diversity of the timber such as we

have in France, the abundance of wild animals, game, and fish, which are of

extraordinary magnitude. All this invites you, Monseigneur, and makes it

seem as if God had created you above all your predecessors to do a work

here more pleasing to Him than any that has yet been accomplished.

For thirty years I have frequented this country, and have acquired a

thorough knowledge of it, obtained from my own observation and the

information given me by the native inhabitants. Monseigneur, I pray you to

pardon my zeal, if I say that, after your renown has spread throughout the

East, you should end by compelling its recognition in the West.

Expelling the English from Quebec has been a very important beginning, but,

nevertheless, since the treaty of peace between the two crowns, they have

returned to carry on trade and annoy us in this river; declaring that it

was enjoined upon them to withdraw, but not to remain away, and that they

have their king's permission to come for the period of thirty years. But,

if your Eminence wills, you can make them feel the power of your authority.

This can, furthermore, be extended at your pleasure to him who has come

here to bring about a general peace among these peoples, who are at war

with a nation holding more than four hundred leagues in subjection, and who

prevent the free use of the rivers and highways. If this peace were made,

we should be in complete and easy enjoyment of our possessions. Once

established in the country, we could expel our enemies, both English and

Flemings, forcing them to withdraw to the coast, and, by depriving them of

trade with the Iroquois, oblige them to abandon the country entirely. It

requires but one hundred and twenty men, light-armed for avoiding arrows,

by whose aid, together with two or three thousand savage warriors, our

allies, we should be, within a year, absolute masters of all these peoples,

and, by establishing order among them, promote religious worship and secure

an incredible amount of traffic.

The country is rich in mines of copper, iron, steel, brass, silver, and

other minerals which may be found here.

The cost, Monseigneur, of one hundred and twenty men is a trifling one to

his Majesty, the enterprise the most noble that can be imagined.

All for the glory of God, whom I pray with my whole heart to grant you

ever-increasing prosperity, and to make me, all my life, Monseigneur,

Your most humble,

Most faithful,

and Most obedient servant,

CHAMPLAIN.

AT QUEBEC, IN NEW FRANCE, the 15th of August, 1635.

In this letter will be found the key to Champlain's war-policy with the

Iroquois, no where else so fully unfolded. We shall refer to this subject

in the sequel.

Early in October, when the harvest of the year had ripened and been

gathered in, and the leaves had faded and fallen, and the earth was mantled

in the symbols of general decay, in sympathy with all that surrounded him,

in his chamber in the little fort on the crest of the rocky promontory at

Quebec, lay the manly form of Champlain, smitten with disease, which was

daily breaking down the vigor and strength of his iron constitution. From

loving friends he received the ministrations of tender and assiduous care.

But his earthly career was near its end. The bowl had been broken at the

fountain. Life went on ebbing away from week to week. At the end of two

months and a half, on Christmas day, the 25th of December, 1635, his spirit

passed to its final rest.

This otherwise joyous festival was thus clouded with a deep sorrow. No

heart in the little colony was untouched by this event. All had been drawn

to Champlain, so many years their chief magistrate and wise counsellor, by

a spontaneous and irresistible respect, veneration, and love. It was meet,

as it was the universal desire, to crown him, in his burial, with every

honor which, in their circumstances, they could bestow. The whole

population joined in a mournful procession. His spiritual adviser and

friend, Father Charles Lalemant, performed in his behalf the last solemn

service of the church. Father Paul Le Jeune pronounced a funeral discourse,

reciting his virtues, his fidelity to the king and the Company of New

France, his extraordinary love and devotion to the families of the colony,

and his last counsels for their continued happiness and welfare. [114]

When these ceremonies were over his body was piously and tenderly laid to

rest, and soon after a tomb was constructed for its reception expressly in

his honor as the benefactor of New France. [115] The place of his burial

[116] was within the little chapel subsequently erected, and which was

reverently called _La Chapelle de M. de Champlain_, in grateful memory of

him whose body reposed beneath its sheltering walls.

ENDNOTES:

110. This catechism, bearing the following title, is contained on fifteen

pages in the ed. of 1632: _Doctrine Chrestienne, du R. P. Ledesme de

la Compagnie de Jesus. Traduîte en Langage Canadois, autre que celuy

des Montagnars, pour la Conversion des habitans dudit pays. Par le R.

P. Breboeuf de la mesme Compagnie_. It is in double columns, one side

Indian and the other French.

111. The following extracts will show that the chapel was erected in 1633,

that it was built by Champlain, and that it was called Notre Dame de

Recouvrance.

Nous les menasmes en nostre petite chapelle, qui a commencé ceste

année à l'embellir.--_Vide Relations des Jésuites_. Québec ed. 1633,

p. 30.

La sage conduitte et la prudence de Monsieur de Champlain Gouuerneur

de Kebec et du fleuve sainct Laurens, qui nous honore de sa bien-

veillance, retenant vn chacun dans son devoir, a fait que nos paroles

et nos prédications ayent esté bien receuens, et la Chapelle qu'il a

fait dresser proche du fort a l'honneur de nostre Dame, &c.--_Idem_,

1634, p. 2.

La troisiéme, que nous allons habiter cette Autome, la Residence de

Nostre-dame de Recouvrance, à Kebec proche du Fort.--_Idem_, 1635, p.

3.

112. According to Père Le Jeune, from five to seven hundred Hurons had

assembled at Quebec in July, 1633, bringing their canoes loaded with

merchandise.--_Vide Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed. 1633, p. 34.

113. This letter was printed in oeuvres de Champlain, Quebec ed. Vol. VI.

_Pièces Justificatives_, p 35. The original is at Paris, in the

Archives of Foreign Affairs.

114. _Vide Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed. 1636, p. 56. _Creuxius,

Historia Canadensis_, pp. 183-4.

115. Monsieur le Gouverneur, qui estimoit sa vertu, desira qu'il fust

enterré prés du corps de feu Monsieur de Champlain, qui est dans vn

sepulchre particulier, erigé exprés pour honorer la memoire de ce

signalé personnage qui a tant obligé la Nouuelle France.--_Vide

Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed. 1643, p. 3.

116. The exact spot where Champlain was buried is at this time unknown.

Historians and antiquaries have been much interested in its discovery.

In 1866, the Abbés Laverdière and Casgrain were encouraged to believe

that their searches had been crowned with success. They published a

statement of their discovery. Their views were controverted in several

critical pamphlets that followed. In the mean time, additional

researches have been made. The theory then broached that his burial

was in the Lower Town, and in the Recollect chapel built in 1615, has

been abandoned. The Abbé Casgrain, in an able discussion of this

subject, in which he cites documents hitherto unpublished, shows that

Champlain was buried in a tomb within the walls of a chapel erected by

his successor in the Upper Town, and that this chapel was situated

somewhere within the court-yard of the present post-office. Père Le

Jeune, who records the death of Champlain in his Relation of 1636,

does not mention the place of his burial; but the Père Vimont, in his

Relation of 1643, in speaking of the burial of Père Charles Raymbault,

says, the "Governor desired that he should be buried near the _body of

the late Monsieur de Champlain_, which is in a particular tomb erected

expressly to honor the memory of that distinguished personage, who had

placed New France under such great obligation." In the Parish Register

of Notre Dame de Quebec, is the following entry: "The 22d of October

(1642), was interred _in the Chapel of M. De Champlain_ the Père

Charles Rimbault." It is plain, therefore, that Champlain was buried

in what was then commonly known as _the Chapel of M. de Champlain_. By

reference to ancient documents or deeds (one bearing date Feb. 10,

1649, and another 22d April, 1652, and in one of which the Chapel of

Champlain is mentioned as contiguous to a piece of land therein

described), the Abbé Casgrain proves that the _Chapel of M. de

Champlain_ was within the square where is situated the present

post-office at Quebec, and, as the tomb of Champlain was within the

chapel, it follows that Champlain was buried somewhere within the

post-office square above mentioned.

Excavations in this square have been made, but no traces of the walls

or foundations of the chapel have been found. In the excavations for

cellars of the houses constructed along the square, the foundations of

the chapel may have been removed. It is possible that when the chapel

was destroyed, which was at a very early period, as no reference to

its existence is found subsequent to 1649, the body of Champlain and

the others buried there may have been removed, and no record made of

the removal. The Abbé Casgrain expresses the hope that other

discoveries may hereafter be made that shall place this interesting

question beyond all doubt.--_Vide Documents Inédits Relatifs au

Tombeau de Champlain_, par l'Abbé H. R. Casgrain, _L'Opinion

Publique_, Montreal, 4 Nov. 1875.

CHAPTER XII.

CHAMPLAIN'S RELIGION.--HIS WAR POLICY.--HIS DOMESTIC AND SOCIAL LIFE.--

CHAMPLAIN AS AN EXPLORER.--HIS LITERARY LABORS.--THE RESULTS OF HIS CAREER.

As Champlain had lived, so he died, a firm and consistent member of the

Roman church. In harmony with his general character, his religious views

were always moderate, never betraying him into excesses, or into any merely

partisan zeal. Born during the profligate, cruel, and perfidious reign of

Charles IX., he was, perhaps, too young to be greatly affected by the evils

characteristic of that period, the massacre of St. Bartholomew's and the

numberless vices that swept along in its train. His youth and early

manhood, covering the plastic and formative period, stretched through the

reign of Henry III., in which the standards of virtue and religion were

little if in any degree improved. Early in the reign of Henry IV., when he

had fairly entered upon his manhood, we find him closely associated with

the moderate party, which encouraged and sustained the broad, generous, and

catholic principles of that distinguished sovereign.

When Champlain became lieutenant-governor of New France, his attention was

naturally turned to the religious wants of his distant domain. Proceeding

cautiously, after patient and prolonged inquiry, he selected missionaries

who were earnest, zealous, and fully consecrated to their work. And all

whom he subsequently invited into the field were men of character and

learning, whose brave endurance of hardship, and manly courage amid

numberless perils, shed glory and lustre upon their holy calling.

Champlain's sympathies were always with his missionaries in their pious

labors. Whether the enterprise were the establishment of a mission among

the distant Hurons, among the Algonquins on the upper St. Lawrence, or for

the enlargement of their accommodations at Quebec, the printing of a

catechism in the language of the aborigines, or if the foundations of a

college were to be laid for the education of the savages, his heart and

hand were ready for the work.

On the establishment of the Company of New France, or the Hundred

Associates, Protestants were entirely excluded. By its constitution no

Huguenots were allowed to settle within the domain of the company. If this

rule was not suggested by Champlain, it undoubtedly existed by his decided

and hearty concurrence. The mingling of Catholics and Huguenots in the

early history of the colony had brought with it numberless annoyances. By

sifting the wheat before it was sown, it was hoped to get rid of an

otherwise inevitable cause of irritation and trouble. The correctness of

the principle of Christian toleration was not admitted by the Roman church

then any more than it is now. Nor did the Protestants of that period

believe in it, or practise it, whenever they possessed the power to do

otherwise. Even the Puritans of Massachusetts Bay held that their charter

conferred upon them the right and power of exclusion. It was not easy, it

is true, to carry out this view by square legal enactment without coming

into conflict with the laws of England; but they were adroit and skilful,

endowed with a marvellous talent for finding some indirect method of laying

a heavy hand upon Friend or Churchman, or the more independent thinkers

among their own numbers, who desired to make their abode within the

precincts of the bay. In the earlier years of the colony at Quebec, when

Protestant and Catholic were there on equal terms, Champlain's religious

associations led him to swerve neither to the right hand nor to the left.

His administration was characterized by justice, firmness, and gentleness,

and was deservedly satisfactory to all parties.

In his later years, the little colony upon whose welfare and Christian

culture he had bestowed so much cheerful labor and anxious thought, became

every day more and more dear to his heart. Within the ample folds of his

charity were likewise encircled the numerous tribes of savages, spread over

the vast domains of New France. He earnestly desired that all of them, far

and near, friend and foe, might be instructed in the doctrines of the

Christian faith, and brought into willing and loving obedience to the

cross.

In its personal application to his own heart, the religion of Champlain was

distinguished by a natural and gradual progress. His warmth, tenderness,

and zeal grew deeper and stronger with advancing years. In his religious

life there was a clearly marked seed-time, growth, and ripening for the

harvest. After his return to Quebec, during the last three years of his

life, his time was especially systematized and appropriated for

intellectual and spiritual improvement. Some portion was given every

morning by himself and those who constituted his family to a course of

historical reading, and in the evening to the memoirs of the saintly dead

whose lives he regarded as suitable for the imitation of the living, and

each night for himself he devoted more or less time to private meditation

and prayer.

Such were the devout habits of Champlain's life in his later years. We are

not, therefore, surprised that the historian of Canada, twenty-five years

after his death, should place upon record the following concise but

comprehensive eulogy:--

"His surpassing love of justice, piety, fidelity to God, his king, and the

Society of New France, had always been conspicuous. But in his death he

gave such illustrious proofs of his goodness as to fill every one with

admiration." [117]

The reader of these memoirs has doubtless observed with surprise and

perhaps with disappointment, the readiness with which Champlain took part

in the wars of the savages. On his first visit to the valley of the St

Lawrence, he found the Indians dwelling on the northern shores of the river

and the lakes engaged in a deadly warfare with those on the southern, the

Iroquois tribes occupying the northern limits of the present State of New

York, generally known as the Five Nations. The hostile relations between

these savages were not of recent date. They reached back to a very early

but indefinite period. They may have existed for several centuries. When

Champlain planted his colony at Quebec, in 1608, he at once entered into

friendly relations with all the tribes which were his immediate neighbors.

This was eminently a suitable thing to do, and was, moreover, necessary for

his safety and protection.

But a permanent and effective alliance with these tribes carried with it of

necessity a solemn assurance of aid against their enemies. This Champlain

promptly promised without hesitation, and the next year he fulfilled his

promise by leading them to battle on the shores of Lake Champlain. At all

subsequent periods he regarded himself as committed to aid his allies in

their hostile expeditions against the Iroquois. In his printed journal, he

offers no apology for his conduct in this respect, nor does he intimate

that his views could be questioned either in morals or sound policy. He

rarely assigns any reason whatever for engaging in these wars. In one or

two instances he states that it seemed to him necessary to do so in order

to facilitate the discoveries which he wished to make, and that he hoped it

might in the end be the means of leading the savages to embrace

Christianity. But he nowhere enters upon a full discussion of this point.

It is enough to say, in explanation of this silence, that a private journal

like that published by Champlain, was not the place in which to foreshadow

a policy, especially as it might in the future be subject to change, and

its success might depend upon its being known only to those who had the

power to shape and direct it. But nevertheless the silence of Champlain has

doubtless led some historians to infer that he had no good reasons to give,

and unfavorable criticisms have been bestowed upon his conduct by those,

who did not understand the circumstances which influenced him, or the

motives which controlled his action.

The war-policy of Champlain was undoubtedly very plainly set forth in his

correspondence and interviews with the viceroys and several companies under

whose authority he acted. But these discussions, whether oral or written,

do not appear in general to have been preserved. Fortunately a single

document of this character is still extant, in which his views are clearly

unfolded. In Champlain's remarkable letter to Cardinal de Richelieu, which

we have introduced a few pages back, his policy is fully stated. It is

undoubtedly the same that he had acted upon from the beginning, and

explains the frankness and readiness with which, first and last, as a

faithful ally, he had professed himself willing to aid the friendly tribes

in their wars against the Iroquois. The object which he wished to

accomplish by this tribal war was, as fully stated in the letter to which

we have referred, first, to conquer the Iroquois or Five Nations; to

introduce peaceful relations between them and the other surrounding tribes;

and, secondly, to establish a grand alliance of all the savage tribes, far

and near, with the French. This could only be done in the order here

stated. No peace could be secured from the Iroquois, except by their

conquest, the utter breaking down of their power. They were not susceptible

to the influence of reason. They were implacable, and had been brutalized

by long-inherited habits of cruelty. In the total annihilation of their

power was the only hope of peace. This being accomplished, the surviving

remnant would, according to the usual custom among the Indians, readily

amalgamate with the victorious tribes, and then a general alliance with the

French could be easily secured. This was what Champlain wished to

accomplish. The pacification of all the tribes occupying both sides of the

St. Lawrence and the chain of northern lakes would place the whole domain

of the American continent, or as much of it as it would be desirable to

hold, under the easy and absolute control of the French nation.

Such a pacification as this would secure two objects; objects eminently

important, appealing strongly to all who desired the aggrandizement of

France and the progress and supremacy of the Catholic faith. It would

secure for ever to the French the fur-trade of the Indians, a commerce then

important and capable of vast expansion. The chief strength and resources

of the savages allied with the French, the Montagnais, Algonquins, and

Hurons, were at that period expended in their wars. On the cessation of

hostilities, their whole force would naturally and inevitably be given to

the chase. A grand field lay open to them for this exciting occupation. The

fur-bearing country embraced not only the region of the St. Lawrence and

the lakes, but the vast and unlimited expanse of territory stretching out

indefinitely in every direction. The whole northern half of the continent

of North America, filled with the most valuable fur-producing mammalia,

would be open to the enterprise of the French, and could not fail to pour

into their treasury an incredible amount of wealth. This Champlain was

far-sighted enough to see, and his patriotic zeal lead him to desire that

France should avail herself of this opportunity. [118]

But the conquest of the Iroquois would not only open to France the prospect

of exhaustless wealth, but it would render accessible a broad, extensive,

and inviting field of missionary labor. It would remove all external and

physical obstacles to the speedy transmission and offer of the Christian

faith to the numberless tribes that would thus be brought within their

reach.

The desire to bring about these two great ulterior purposes, the

augmentation of the commerce of France in the full development of the

fur-trade, and the gathering into the Catholic church the savage tribes of

the wilderness, explains the readiness with which, from the beginning,

Champlain encouraged his Indian allies and took part with them in their

wars against the Five Nations. In the very last year of his life, he

demanded of Richelieu the requisite military force to carry on this war,

reminding him that the cost would be trifling to his Majesty, while the

enterprise would be the most noble that could be imagined.

In regard to the domestic and social life of Champlain, scarcely any

documents remain that can throw light upon the subject. Of his parents we

have little information beyond that of their respectable calling and

standing. He was probably an only child, as no others are on any occasion

mentioned or referred to. He married, as we have seen, the daughter of the

Secretary of the King's Chamber, and his wife, Hélène Boullé, accompanied

him to Canada in 1620, where she remained four years. They do not appear to

have had children, as the names of none are found in the records at Quebec,

and, at his death, the only claimant as an heir, was a cousin, Marie

Cameret, who, in 1639, resided at Rochelle, and whose husband was Jacques

Hersant, controller of duties and imposts. After Champlain's decease, his

wife, Hélène Boullé, became a novice in an Ursuline convent in the faubourg

of St. Jacques in Paris. Subsequently, in 1648, she founded a religious

house of the same order in the city of Meaux, contributing for the purpose

the sum of twenty thousand livres and some part of the furnishing. She

entered the house that she had founded, as a nun, under the name of Sister

_Hélène de St. Augustin_, where, as the foundress, certain privileges were

granted to her, such as a superior quality of food for herself, exemption

from attendance upon some of the longer services, the reception into the

convent, on her recommendation, of a young maiden to be a nun of the choir,

with such pecuniary assistance as she might need, and the letters of her

brother, the Father Eustache Boullé, were to be exempted from the usual

inspection. She died at Meaux, on the 20th day of December, 1654, in the

convent which she had founded. [119]

As an explorer, Champlain was unsurpassed by any who visited the northern

coasts of America anterior to its permanent settlement. He was by nature

endowed with a love of useful adventure, and for the discovery of new

countries he had an insatiable thirst. It began with him as a child, and

was fresh and irrepressible in his latest years. Among the arts, he

assigned to navigation the highest importance. His broad appreciation of it

and his strong attachment to it, are finely stated in his own compact and

comprehensive description.

"Of all the most useful and excellent arts, that of navigation has always

seemed to me to occupy the first place. For the more hazardous it is, and

the more numerous the perils and losses by which it is attended, so much

the more is it esteemed and exalted above all others, being wholly unsuited

to the timid and irresolute. By this art we obtain a knowledge of different

countries, regions, and realms. By it we attract and bring to our own land

all kinds of riches; by it the idolatry of paganism is overthrown and

Christianity proclaimed throughout all the regions of the earth. This is

the art which won my love in my early years, and induced me to expose

myself almost all my life to the impetuous waves of the ocean, and led me

to explore the coasts of a part of America, especially those of New France,

where I have always desired to see the Lily flourish, together with the

only religion, catholic, apostolic, and Roman."

In addition to his natural love for discovery, Champlain had a combination

of other qualities which rendered his explorations pre-eminently valuable.

His interest did not vanish with seeing what was new. It was by no means a

mere fancy for simple sight-seeing. Restlessness and volatility did not

belong to his temperament. His investigations were never made as an end,

but always as a means. His undertakings in this direction were for the most

part shaped and colored by his Christian principle and his patriotic love

of France. Sometimes one and sometimes the other was more prominent.

His voyage to the West Indies was undertaken under a twofold impulse. It

gratified his love of exploration and brought back rare and valuable

information to France. Spain at that time did not open her island-ports to

the commerce of the world. She was drawing from them vast revenues in

pearls and the precious metals. It was her policy to keep this whole

domain, this rich archipelago, hermetically sealed, and any foreign vessel

approached at the risk of capture and confiscation. Champlain could not,

therefore, explore this region under a commission from France. He

accordingly sought and obtained permission to visit these Spanish

possessions under the authority of Spain herself. He entered and personally

examined all the important ports that surround and encircle the Caribbean

Sea, from the pearl-bearing Margarita on the south, Deseada on the east, to

Cuba on the west, together with the city of Mexico, and the Isthmus of

Panama on the mainland. As the fruit of these journeyings, he brought back

a report minute in description, rich in details, and luminous with

illustrations. This little brochure, from the circumstances attendant upon

its origin, is unsurpassed in historical importance by any similar or

competing document of that period. It must always remain of the highest

value as a trustworthy, original authority, without which it is probable

that the history of those islands, for that period, could not be accurately

and truthfully written.

Champlain was a pioneer in the exploration of the Atlantic coast of New

England and the eastern provinces of Canada, From the Strait of Canseau, at

the northeastern extremity of Nova Scotia, to the Vineyard Sound, on the

southern limits of Massachusetts, he made a thorough survey of the coast in

1605 and 1606, personally examining its most important harbors, bays, and

rivers, mounting its headlands, penetrating its forests, carefully

observing and elaborately describing its soil, its products, and its native

inhabitants. Besides lucid and definite descriptions of the coast, he

executed topographical drawings of numerous points of interest along our

shores, as Plymouth harbor, Nauset Bay, Stage Harbor at Chatham, Gloucester

Bay, the Bay of Baco, with the long stretch of Old Orchard Beach and its

interspersed islands, the mouth of the Kennebec, and as many more on the

coast of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. To these he added descriptions,

more or less definite, of the harbors of Barnstable, Wellfleet, Boston, of

the headland of Cape Anne, Merrimac Bay, the Isles of Shoals, Cape

Porpoise, Richmond's Island, Mount Desert, Isle Haute, Seguin, and the

numberless other islands that adorn the exquisite sea-coast of Maine, as

jewels that add a new lustre to the beauty of a peerless goddess.

Other navigators had coasted along our shores. Some of them had touched at

single points, of which they made meagre and unsatisfactory surveys.

Gosnold had, in 1602, discovered Savage Rock, but it was so indefinitely

located and described that it cannot even at this day be identified.

Resolving to make a settlement on one of the barren islands forming the

group named in honor of Queen Elizabeth and still bearing her name; after

some weeks spent in erecting a storehouse, and in collecting a cargo of

"furrs, skyns, saxafras, and other commodities," the project of a

settlement was abandoned and he returned to England, leaving, however, two

permanent memorials of his voyage, in the names which he gave respectively

to Martha's Vineyard and to the headland of Cape Cod.

Captain Martin Pring came to our shores in 1603, in search of a cargo of

sassafras. There are indications that he entered the Penobscot. He

afterward paid his respects to Savage Rock, the undefined _bonanza_ of his

predecessor. He soon found his desired cargo on the Vineyard Islands, and

hastily returned to England.

Captain George Weymouth, in 1605, was on the coast of Maine concurrently,

or nearly so, with Champlain, where he passed a month, explored a river,

set up a cross, and took possession of the country in the name of the king.

But where these transactions took place is still in dispute, so

indefinitely does his journalist describe them.

Captain John Smith, eight years later than Champlain, surveyed the coast of

New England while his men were collecting a cargo of furs and fish. He

wrote a description of it from memory, part or all of it while a prisoner

on board a French ship of war off Fayall, and executed a map, both

valuable, but nevertheless exceedingly indefinite and general in their

character.

These flying visits to our shores were not unimportant, and must not be

undervalued. They were necessary steps in the progress of the grand

historical events that followed. But they were meagre and hasty and

superficial, when compared to the careful, deliberate, extensive, and

thorough, not to say exhaustive, explorations made by Champlain.

In the Gulf of St. Lawrence, Cartier had preceded Champlain by a period of

more than sixty years. During this long, dreary half-century the stillness

of the primeval forest had not been disturbed by the woodman's axe. When

Champlain's eyes fell upon it, it was still the same wild, unfrequented,

unredeemed region that it had been to its first discoverer. The rivers,

bays, and islands described by Cartier were identified by Champlain, and

the names they had already received were permanently fixed by his added

authority. The whole gulf and river were re-examined and described anew in

his journal. The exploration of the Richelieu and of Lake Champlain was

pushed into the interior three hundred miles from his base at Quebec. It

reached into a wilderness and along gentle waters never before seen by any

civilized race. It was at once fascinating and hazardous, environed as it

was by vigilant and ferocious savages, who guarded its gates with the

sleepless watchfulness of the fabled Cerberus.

The courage, endurance, and heroism of Champlain were tested in the still

greater-exploration of 1615. It extended from Montreal, the whole length of

the Ottawa, to Lake Nipissing, the Georgian Bay, Simcoe, the system of

small lakes on the south, across the Ontario, and finally ending in the

interior of the State of New York, a journey through tangled forests and

broken water-courses of more than a thousand miles, occupying nearly a

year, executed in the face of physical suffering and hardship before which

a nature less intrepid and determined, less loyal to his great purpose,

less generous and unselfish, would have yielded at the outset. These

journeys into the interior, along the courses of navigable rivers and

lakes, and through the primitive forests, laid open to the knowledge of the

French a domain vast and indefinite in extent, on which an empire broader

and far richer in resources than the old Gallic France might have been

successfully reared.

The personal explorations of Champlain in the West Indies, on the Atlantic

coast, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, in the State of New York and of

Vermont, and among the lakes in Canada and those that divide the Dominion

from the United States, including the full, explicit, and detailed journals

which he wrote concerning them, place Champlain undeniably not merely in

the front rank, but at the head of the long list of explorers and

navigators, who early visited this part of the continent of North America.

Champlain's literary labors are interesting and important. They were not

professional, but incidental, and the natural outgrowth of the career to

which he devoted his life. He had the sagacity to see that the fields which

he entered as an explorer were new and important, that the aspect of every

thing which he then saw would, under the influence and progress of

civilization, soon be changed, and that it was historically important that

a portrait Sketched by an eyewitness should be handed down to other

generations. It was likewise necessary for the immediate and successful

planting of colonies, that those who engaged in the undertaking should have

before them full information of all the conditions on which they were to

build their hopes of final success.

Inspired by such motives as these, Champlain wrote out an accurate journal

of the events that transpired about him, of what he personally saw, and of

the observations of others, authenticated by the best tests which, under

the circumstances, he was able to apply. His natural endowments for this

work were of the highest order. As an observer he was sagacious,

discriminating, and careful. His judgment was cool, comprehensive, and

judicious. His style is in general clear, logical, and compact. His

acquired ability was not, however, extraordinary. He was a scholar neither

by education nor by profession. His life was too full of active duties, or

too remote from the centres of knowledge for acquisitions in the

departments of elegant and refined learning. The period in which he lived

was little distinguished for literary culture. A more brilliant day was

approaching, but it had not yet appeared. The French language was still

crude and unpolished. It had not been disciplined and moulded into the

excellence to which it soon after arose in the reign of Louis XIV. We

cannot in reason look for a grace, refinement, and flexibility which the

French language had not at that time generally attained. But it is easy to

see under the rude, antique, and now obsolete forms which characterize

Champlain's narratives, the elements of a style which, under, early

discipline, nicer culture, and a richer vocabulary, might have made it a

model for all times. There are, here and there, some involved, unfinished,

and obscure passages, which seem, indeed, to be the offspring of haste, or

perhaps of careless and inadequate proof-reading. But in general his style

is without ornament, simple, dignified, concise, and clear. While he was

not a diffusive writer, his works are by no means limited in extent, as

they occupy in the late erudite Laverdière's edition, six quarto volumes,

containing fourteen hundred pages. In them are three large maps,

delineating the whole northeastern part of the continent, executed with

great care and labor by his own hand, together with numerous local

drawings, picturing not only bays and harbors, Indian canoes, wigwams, and

fortresses, but several battle scenes, conveying a clear idea, not possible

by a mere verbal description, of the savage implements and mode of warfare.

[120] His works include, likewise, a treatise on navigation, full of

excellent suggestions to the practical seaman of that day, drawn from his

own experience, stretching over a period of more than forty years.

The Voyages of Champlain, as an authority, must always stand in the front

rank. In trustworthiness, in richness and fullness of detail, they have no

competitor in the field of which they treat. His observations upon the

character, manners, customs, habits, and utensils of the aborigines, were

made before they were modified or influenced in their mode of life by

European civilization. The intercourse of the strolling fur-trader and

fishermen with them was so infrequent and brief at that early period, that

it made upon them little or no impression. Champlain consequently pictures

the Indian in his original, primeval simplicity. This will always give to

his narratives, in the eye of the historian, the ethnologist, and the

antiquary, a peculiar and pre-eminent importance. The result of personal

observation, eminently truthful and accurate, their testimony must in all

future time be incomparably the best that can be obtained relating to the

aborigines on this part of the American continent.

In completing this memoir, the reader can hardly fail to be impressed, not

to say disappointed, by the fact that results apparently insignificant

should thus far have followed a life of able, honest, unselfish, heroic

labor. The colony was still small in numbers, the acres subdued and brought

into cultivation were few, and the aggregate yearly products were meagre.

But it is to be observed that the productiveness of capital and labor and

talent, two hundred and seventy years ago, cannot well be compared with the

standards of to-day. Moreover, the results of Champlain's career are

insignificant rather in appearance than in reality. The work which he did

was in laying foundations, while the superstructure was to be reared in

other years and by other hands. The palace or temple, by its lofty and

majestic proportions, attracts the eye and gratifies the taste; but its

unseen foundations, with their nicely adjusted arches, without which the

superstructure would crumble to atoms, are not less the result of the

profound knowledge and practical wisdom of the architect. The explorations

made by Champlain early and late, the organization and planting of his

colonies, the resistance of avaricious corporations, the holding of

numerous savage tribes in friendly alliance, the daily administration of

the affairs of the colony, of the savages, and of the corporation in

France, to the eminent satisfaction of all generous and noble-minded

patrons, and this for a period of more than thirty years, are proofs of an

extraordinary combination of mental and moral qualities. Without

impulsiveness, his warm and tender sympathies imparted to him an unusual

power and influence over other men. He was wise, modest, and judicious in

council, prompt, vigorous, and practical in administration, simple and

frugal in his mode of life, persistent and unyielding in the execution of

his plans, brave and valiant in danger, unselfish, honest, and

conscientious in the discharge of duty. These qualities, rare in

combination, were always conspicuous in Champlain, and justly entitle him

to the respect and admiration of mankind.

ENDNOTES:

117. _Vide Creuxius, Historia Canadensis_, pp 183, 184.

118. The justness of Champlain's conception of the value of the fur-trade

has been verified by its subsequent history. The Hudson's Bay Company

was organized for the purpose of carrying on this trade, under a

charter granted by Charles II., in 1670. A part of the trade has at

times been conducted by other associations. But this company is still

in active and rigorous operation. Its capital is $10,000,000. At its

reorganization in 1863, it was estimated that it would yield a net

annual income, to be divided among the corporators, of $400,000. It

employs twelve hundred servants beside its chief factors. It is easy

to see what a vast amount of wealth in the shape of furs and peltry

has been pouring into the European markets, for more than two hundred

years, from this fur bearing region, and the sources of this wealth

are probably little, if in any degree, diminished.

119. _Vide Documents inédits sur Samuel de Champlain_, par Étienne

Charavay, archiviste-paléographe, Paris, 1875.

120. The later sketches made by Champlain are greatly superior to those

which he executed to illustrate his voyage in the West Indies. They

are not only accurate, but some of them are skilfully done, and not

only do no discredit to an amateur, but discover marks of artistic

taste and skill.

ANNOTATIONES POSTSCRIPTAE

EUSTACHE BOULLÉ. A brother-in-law of Champlain, who made his first visit to

Canada in 1618. He was an active assistant of Champlain, and in 1625 was

named his lieutenant. He continued there until the taking of Quebec by the

English in 1629. He subsequently took holy orders.--_Vide Doc. inédits sur

Samuel de Champlain_, par Étienne Charavay. Paris, 1875, p. 8.

PONT GRAVÉ. The whole career of this distinguished merchant was closely

associated with Canadian trade. He was in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, in the

interest of Chauvin, in 1599. He commanded the expedition sent out by De

Chaste in 1603, when Champlain made his first exploration of the River St.

Lawrence. He was intrusted with the chief management of the trade carried

on with the Indians by the various companies and viceroys under Champlain's

lieutenancy until the removal of the colony by the English, when his active

life was closed by the infirmities of age. He was always a warm and trusted

friend of Champlain, who sought his counsel on all occasions of importance.

THE BIRTH OF CHAMPLAIN. All efforts to fix the exact date of his birth have

been unsuccessful. M. De Richemond, author of a _Biographie de la Charente

Inférieure_, instituted most careful searches, particularly with the hope

of finding a record of his baptism. The records of the parish of Brouage

extend back only to August 11, 1615. The duplicates, deposited at the

office of the civil tribunal of Marennes anterior to this date, were

destroyed by fire.--_MS. letter of M. De Richemond, Archivist of the Dep.

of Charente Inférieure_, La Rochelle, July 17, 1875.

MARC LESCARBOT. We have cited the authority of this writer in this work on

many occasions. He was born at Vervins, perhaps about 1585. He became an

advocate, and a resident of Paris, and, according to Larousse, died in

1630. He came to America in 1606, and passed the winter of that year at the

French settlement near the present site of Lower Granville, on the western

bank of Annapolis Basin in Nova Scotia. In the spring of 1607 he crossed

the Bay of Fundy, entered the harbor of St. John, N. B., and extended his

voyage as far as De Monts's Island in the River St. Croix. He returned to

France that same year, on the breaking up of De Monts's colony. He was the

author of the following works: _Histoire de la Nouvelle France_, 1609; _Les

Muses de la Nouvelle France; Tableau de la Suisse, auquel sont décrites les

Singularites des Alpes_, Paris, 1618; _La Chasse aux Anglais dans l'isle de

Rhé et au Siége de la Rochelle, et la Réduction de cette Ville en 1628_,

Paris, 1629.

PLYMOUTH HARBOR. This note will modify our remarks on p. 78, Vol. II.

Champlain entered this harbor on the 18th of July, 1605, and, lingering but

a single day, sailed out of it on the 19th. He named it _Port St. Louis_,

or _Port du Cap St. Louis_.--_Vide antea_, pp. 53, 54; Vol. II., pp. 76-78.

As the fruit of his brief stay in the harbor of Plymouth, he made an

outline sketch of the bay which preserves most of its important features.

He delineates what is now called on our Coast Survey maps _Long Beach_ and

_Duxbury Beach_. At the southern extremity of the latter is the headland

known as the _Gurnet_. Within the bay he figures two islands, of which he

speaks also in the text. These two islands are mentioned in Mourt's

Relation, printed in 1622.--_Vide Dexter's ed._ p. 60. They are also

figured on an old map of the date of 1616, found by J. R. Brodhead in the

Royal Archives at the Hague; likewise on a map by Lucini, without date,

but, as it has Boston on it, it must have been executed after 1630. These

maps may be found in _Doc. His. of the State of New York_, Vol. I.;

_Documents relating to the Colonial His. of the State of New York_, Vol.

I., p. 13. The reader will find these islands likewise indicated on the map

of William Wood, entitled _The South part of New-England, as it is Planted

this yeare, 1634_.--_Vide New England Prospect_, Prince Society ed. They

appear also on Blaskowitz's "Plan of Plimouth," 1774.--_Vide Changes in the

Harbor of Plymouth_, by Prof. Henry Mitchell, Chief of Physical

Hydrography, U. S. Coast Survey, Report of 1876, Appendix No. 9. In the

collections of the Mass. Historical Society for 1793, Vol. II., in an

article entitled _A Topographical Description of Duxborough_, but without

the author's name, the writer speaks of two pleasant islands within the

harbor, and adds that Saquish was joined to the Gurnet by a narrow piece of

land, but for several years the water had made its way across and

_insulated_ it.

From the early maps to which we have referred, and the foregoing citations,

it appears that there were two islands in the harbor of Plymouth from the

time of Champlain till about the beginning of the present century. A

careful collation of Champlain's map of the harbor with the recent Coast

Survey Charts will render it evident that one of these islands thus figured

by Champlain, and by others later, is Saquish Head; that since his time a

sand-bank has been thrown up and now become permanent, connecting it with

the Gurnet by what is now called Saquish Neck. Prof. Mitchell, in the work

already cited, reports that there are now four fathoms less of water in the

deeper portion of the roadstead than when Champlain explored the harbor in

1605. There must, therefore, have been an enormous deposit of sand to

produce this result, and this accounts for the neck of sand which has been

thrown up and become fixed or permanent, now connecting Saquish Head with

the Gurnet.

MOUNT DESERT. This island was discovered on the fifth day of September,

1604. Champlain having been comissioned by Sieur De Monts, the Patentee of

La Cadie, to make discoveries on the coast southwest of the Saint Croix,

left the mouth of that river in a small barque of seventeen or eighteen

tons, with twelve sailors and two savages as guides, and anchored the same

evening, apparently near Bar Harbor. While here, they explored Frenchman's

Bay as far on the north as the Narrows, where Champlain says the distance

across to the mainland is not more than a hundred paces. The next day, on

the sixth of the month, they sailed two leagues, and came to Otter Creek

Cove, which extends up into the island a mile or more, nestling between the

spurs of Newport Mountain on the east and Green Mountain on the west.

Champlain says this cove is "at the foot of the mountains," which clearly

identifies it, as it is the only one in the neighborhood answering to this

description. In this cove they discovered several savages, who had come

there to hunt beavers and to fish. On a visit to Otter Cove Cliffs in June,

1880, we were told by an old fisherman ninety years of age, living on the

borders of this cove, and the statement was confirmed by several others,

that on the creek at the head of the cove, there was, within his memory, a

well-known beaver dam.

The Indians whose acquaintance Champlain made at this place conducted him

among the islands, to the mouth of the Penobscot, and finally up the river,

to the site of the present city of Bangor. It was on this visit, on the

fifth of September, 1604, that Champlain gave the island the name of

_Monts-déserts_. The French generally gave to places names that were

significant. In this instance they did not depart from their usual custom.

The summits of most of the mountains on this island, then as now, were only

rocks, being destitute of trees, and this led Champlain to give its

significant name, which, in plain English, means the island of the desert,

waste, or uncultivatable mountains. If we follow the analogy of the

language, either French or English, it should be pronounced with the accent

on the penult, Mount Désert, and not on the last syllable, as we sometimes

hear it. This principle cannot be violated without giving to the word a

meaning which, in this connection, would be obviously inappropriate and

absurd.

CARTE DE LA NOUVELLE FRANCE, 1632. As the map of 1632 has often been

referred to in this work, we have introduced into this volume a heliotype

copy. The original was published in the year of its date, but it had been

completed before Champlain left Quebec in 1629. The reader will bear in

mind that it was made from Champlain's personal explorations, and from such

other information as could be obtained from the meagre sources which

existed at that early period, and not from any accurate or scientific

surveys. The information which he obtained from others was derived from

more or less doubtful sources, coming as it did from fishermen,

fur-traders, and the native inhabitants. The two former undoubtedly

constructed, from time to time, rude maps of the coast for their own use.

From these Champlain probably obtained valuable hints, and he was thus able

to supplement his own knowledge of the regions with which he was least

familiar on the Atlantic coast and in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Beyond the

limits of his personal explorations on the west, his information was wholly

derived from the savages. No European had penetrated into those regions, if

we except his servant, Étienne Brûlé, whose descriptions could have been of

very little service. The deficiencies of Champlain's map are here

accordingly most apparent. Rivers and lakes farther west than the Georgian

Bay, and south of it, are sometimes laid down where none exist, and, again,

where they do exist, none are portrayed. The outline of Lake Huron, for

illustration, was entirely misconceived. A river-like line only of water

represents Lake Erie, while Lake Michigan does not appear at all.

The delineation of Hudson's Bay was evidently taken from the TABULA NAUTICA

of Henry Hudson, as we have shown in Note 297, Vol. II., to which the

reader is referred.

It will be observed that there is no recognition on the map of any English

settlement within the limits of New England. In 1629, when the _Carte de la

Nouvelle France_ was completed, an English colony had been planted at

Plymouth, Mass., nine years, and another at Piscataqua, or Portsmouth, N.

H., six years. The Rev. William Blaxton had been for several years in

occupation of the peninsula of Shawmut, or Boston. Salem had also been

settled one or two years. These last two may not, it is true, have come to

Champlain's knowledge. But none of these settlements are laid down on the

map. The reason of these omissions is obvious. The whole territory from at

least the 40th degree of north latitude, stretching indefinitely to the

north, was claimed by the French. As possession was, at that day, the most

potent argument for the justice of a territorial claim, the recognition, on

a French map, of these English settlements, would have been an indiscretion

which the wise and prudent Champlain would not be likely to commit.

There is, however, a distinct recognition of an English settlement farther

south. Cape Charles and Cape Henry appear at the entrance of Chesapeake

Bay. Virginia is inscribed in its proper place, while Jamestown and Point

Comfort are referred to by numbers.

On the borders of the map numerous fish belonging to these waters are

figured, together with several vessels of different sizes and in different

attitudes, thus preserving their form and structure at that period. The

degrees of latitude and longitude are numerically indicated, which are

convenient for the references found in Champlain's journals, but are

necessarily too inaccurate to be otherwise useful. But notwithstanding its

defects, when we take into account the limited means at his command, the

difficulties which he had to encounter, the vast region which it covers,

this map must be regarded as an extraordinary achievement. It is by far the

most accurate in outline, and the most finished in detail, of any that had

been attempted of this region anterior to this date.

THE PORTRAITS OF CHAMPLAIN.--Three engraved portraits of Champlain have

come to our knowledge. All of them appear to have been after an original

engraved portrait by Balthazar Moncornet. This artist was born in Rouen

about 1615, and died not earlier than 1670. He practised his art in Paris,

where he kept a shop for the sale of prints. Though not eminently

distinguished as a skilful artist, he nevertheless left many works,

particularly a great number of portraits. As he had not arrived at the age

of manhood when Champlain died, his engraving of him was probably executed

about fifteen or twenty years after that event. At that time Madame

Champlain, his widow, was still living, as likewise many of Champlaln's

intimate friends. From some of them it is probable Moncornet obtained a

sketch or portrait, from which his engraving was made.

Of the portraits of Champlain which we have seen, we may mention first that

in Laverdière's edition of his works. This is a half-length, with long,

curling hair, moustache and imperial. The sleeves of the close-fitting coat

are slashed, and around the neck is the broad linen collar of the period,

fastened in front with cord and tassels. On the left, in the background, is

the promontory of Quebec, with the representation of several turreted

buildings both in the upper and lower town. On the border of the oval,

which incloses the subject, is the legend, _Moncornet Ex c. p._ The

engraving is coarsely executed, apparently on copper. It is alleged to have

been taken from an original Moncornet in France. Our inquiries as to where

the original then was, or in whose possession it then was or is now, have

been unsuccessful. No original, when inquiries were made by Dr. Otis, a

short time since, was found to exist in the department of prints in the

Bibliothèque Nationale in Paris.

Another portrait of Champlain is found in Shea's translation of

Charlevoix's History of New France. This was taken from the portrait of

Champlain, which, with that of Cartier, Montcalm, Wolfe, and others, adorns

the walls of the reception room of the Speaker of the House of Commons, in

the Parliament House at Ottawa, in Canada, which was painted by Thomas

Hamel, from a copy of Moncornet's engraving obtained in France by the late

M. Faribault. From the costume and general features, it appears to be after

the same as that contained in Laverdière's edition of Champlain's works, to

which we have already referred. The artist has given it a youthful

appearance, which suggests that the original sketch was made many years

before Champlain's death. We are indebted to the politeness of Dr. Shea for

the copies which accompany this work.

A third portrait of Champlain may be found in L'Histoire de France, par M.

Guizot, Paris, 1876, Vol. v. p. 149. The inscription reads: "CHAMPLAIN

[SAMUEL DE], d'après un portrait gravé par Moncornet." It is engraved on

wood by E. Ronjat, and represents the subject in the advanced years of his

life. In position, costume, and accessories it is widely different from the

others, and Moncornet must have left more than one engraving of Champlain,

or we must conclude that the modern artists have taken extraordinary

liberties with their subject. The features are strong, spirited, and

characteristic. A heliotype copy accompanies this volume.

PREFACE TO THE TRANSLATION.

The journals of Champlain, commonly called his Voyages, were written and

published by him at intervals from 1603 to 1632. The first volume was

printed in 1603, and entitled,--

1. _Des Sauuages, ou, Voyage de Samuel Champlain, de Brouage, faict en la

France Nouuelle, l'an mil six cens trois. A Paris, chez Claude de

Monstr'oeil, tenant sa boutique en la Cour du Palais, au nom de Jesus.

1604. Auec privilege du Roy_. 12mo. 4 preliminary leaves. Text 36 leaves.

The title-page contains also a sub-title, enumerating in detail the

subjects treated of in the work. Another copy with slight verbal changes

has no date on the title-page, but in both the "privilège" is dated

November 15, 1603. The copies which we have used are in the Library of

Harvard College, and in that of Mrs. John Carter Brown, of Providence, R.

I.

An English translation of this issue is contained in _Purchas his

Pilgrimes_. London, 1625, vol. iv., pp. 1605-1619.

The next publication appeared in 1613, with the following title:--

2. _Les Voyages du Sieur de Champlain Xaintongeois, Capitaine ordinaire

pour le Roy, en la marine. Divisez en deux livres. ou, journal tres-fidele

des observations faites és descouuertures de la Nouuelle France: tant en la

description des terres, costes, riuieres, ports, haures, leurs hauteurs, &

plusieurs delinaisons de la guide-aymant; qu'en la creance des peuples,

leur superslition, façon de viure & de guerroyer: enrichi de quantité de

figures, A Paris, chez Jean Berjon, rue S. Jean de Beauuais, au Cheual

volant, & en sa boutique au Palais, à la gallerie des prisonniers.

M.DC.XIII. Avec privilege dv Roy_. 4to. 10 preliminary leaves. Text, 325

pages; table 5 pp. One large folding map. One small map. 22 plates. The

title-page contains, in addition, a sub-title in regard to the two maps.

The above-mentioned volume contains, also, the Fourth Voyage, bound in at

the end, with the following title:--

_Qvatriesme Voyage du Sr de Champlain Capitaine ordinaire povr le Roy en la

marine, & Lieutenant de Monseigneur le Prince de Condé en la Nouuelle

France, fait en l'année_ 1613. 52 pages. Whether this was also issued as a

separate work, we are not informed.

The copy of this publication of 1613 which we have used is in the Library

of Harvard College.

The next publication of Champlain was in 1619. There was a re-issue of the

same in 1620 and likewise in 1627. The title of the last-mentioned issue is

as follows:--

3. _Voyages et Descovvertures faites en la Novvelle France, depuis l'année

1615. iusques à la fin de l'année 1618. Par le Sieur de Champlain,

Cappitaine ordinaire pour le Roy en la Mer du Ponant. Seconde Edition. A

Paris, chez Clavde Collet, au Palais, en la gallerie des Prisonniers.

M.D.C.XXVII. Avec privilege dv Roy_. 12mo. 8 preliminary leaves. Text 158

leaves, 6 plates. The title-page contains, in addition, a sub-title, giving

an outline of the contents. The edition of 1627, belonging to the Library

of Harvard College, contains likewise an illuminated title-page, which we

here give in heliotype. As this illuminated title-page bears the date of

1619, it was probably that of the original edition of that date.

The next and last publication of Champlain was issued in 1632, with the

following title:--

4. _Les Voyages de la Novvelle France occidentale, dicte Canada, faits par

le Sr de Champlain Xainctongeois, Capitaine pour le Roy en la Marine du

Ponant, & toutes les Descouuertes qu'il a faites en ce païs depuis l'an

1603, iusques en l'an 1629. Où se voit comme ce pays a esté premierement

descouuert par les François, sous l'authorité de nos Roys tres-Chrestiens,

iusques au regne de sa Majesté à present regnante Louis XIII. Roy de France

& de Navarre. A Paris. Chez Clavde Collet au Palais, en la Gallerie des

Prisonniers, à l'Estoille d'Or. M.DC.XXXII. Avec Privilege du Roy_.

There is also a long sub-title, with a statement that the volume contains

what occurred in New France in 1631. The volume is dedicated to Cardinal

Richelieu. 4to. 16 preliminary pages. Text 308 pages. 6 plates, which are

the same as those in the edition of 1619. "Seconde Partie," 310 pages. One

large general map; table explanatory of map, 8 pages. "Traitté de la

Marine," 54 pages. 2 plates. "Doctrine Chrestienne" and "L'Oraison

Dominicale," 20 pages. Another copy gives the name of Sevestre as

publisher, and another that of Pierre Le Mvr.

The publication of 1632 is stated by Laverdière to have been reissued in

1640, with a new title and date, but without further changes. This,

however, is not found in the National Library at Paris, which contains all

the other editions and issues. The copies of the edition of 1632 which we

have consulted are in the Harvard College Library and in the Boston

Athenaeum.

It is of importance to refer, as we have done, to the particular copy used,

for it appears to have been the custom in the case of books printed as

early as the above, to keep the type standing, and print issues at

intervals, sometimes without any change in the title-page or date, and yet

with alterations to some extent in the text. For instance, the copy of the

publication of 1613 in the Harvard College Library differs from that in

Mrs. Brown's Library, at Providence, in minor points, and particularly in

reference to some changes in the small map. The same is true of the

publication of 1603. The variations are probably in part owing to the lack

of uniformity in spelling at that period.

None of Champlain's works had been reprinted until 1830, when there

appeared, in two volumes, a reprint of the publication of 1632, "at the

expense of the government, in order to give work to printers." Since then

there has been published the elaborate work, with extensive annotations, of

the Abbé Laverdière, as follows:--

OEUVRES DE CHAMPLAIN, PUBLIÉES SOUS LE PATRONAGE DE L'UNIVERSITÉ LAVAL. PAR

L'ABBÉ C. H. LAVERDIÈRE, M. A. SECONDE ÉDITION. 6 TOMES. 4TO. QUÉBEC:

IMPRIMÉ AU SÉMINAIRE PAR GEO. E. DESBARATS. 1870.

This contains all the works of Champlain above mentioned, and the text is a

faithful reprint from the early Paris editions. It includes, in addition to

this, Champlain's narrative of his voyage to the West Indies, in 1598, of

which the following is the title:--

_Brief Discovrs des choses plvs remarqvables qve Sammvel Champlain de

Brovage a reconneues aux Indes Occidentalles au voiage qu'il en a faict en

icelles en l'année mil v[c] iiij.[xx].xix. & en l'année mil vj[c] i. comme

ensuit_.

This had never before been published in French, although a translation of

it had been issued by the Hakluyt Society in 1859. The _MS_. is the only

one of Champlain's known to exist, excepting a letter to Richelieu,

published by Laverdière among the "Pièces Justificatives." When used by

Laverdière it was in the possession of M. Féret, of Dieppe, but has since

been advertised for sale by the Paris booksellers, Maisonneuve & Co., at

the price of 15,000 francs, and is now in the possession of M. Pinart.

The volume printed in 1632 has been frequently compared with that of 1613,

as if the former were merely a second edition of the latter. But this

conveys an erroneous idea of the relation between the two. In the first

place, the volume of 1632 contains what is not given in any of the previous

publications of Champlain. That is, it extends his narrative over the

period from 1620 to 1632. It likewise goes over the same ground that is

covered not only by the volume of 1613, but also by the other still later

publications of Champlain, up to 1620. It includes, moreover, a treatise on

navigation. In the second place, it is an abridgment, and not a second

edition in any proper sense. It omits for the most part personal details

and descriptions of the manners and customs of the Indians, so that very

much that is essential to the full comprehension of Champlain's work as an

observer and explorer is gone. Moreover, there seems a to be some internal

evidence indicating that this abridgment was not made by Champlain himself,

and Laverdière suggests that the work has been tampered with by another

hand. Thus, all favorable allusions to the Récollets, to whom Champlain was

friendly, are modified or expunged, while the Jesuits are made to appear in

a prominent and favorable light. This question has been specially

considered by Laverdière in his introduction to the issue of 1632, to which

the reader is referred.

The language used by Champlain is essentially the classic French of the

time of Henry IV. The dialect or patois of Saintonge, his native province,

was probably understood and spoken by him; but we have not discovered any

influence of it in his writings, either in respect to idiom or vocabulary.

An occasional appearance at court, and his constant official intercourse

with public men of prominence at Paris and elsewhere, rendered necessary

strict attention to the language he used.

But though using in general the language of court and literature, he

offends not unfrequently against the rules of grammar and logical

arrangement. Probably his busy career did not allow him to read, much less

study, at least in reference to their style, such masterpieces of

literature as the "Essais" of Montaigne, the translations of Amyot, or the

"Histoire Universelle" of D'Aubigné. The voyages of Cartier he undoubtedly

read; but, although superior in point of literary merit to Champlaih's

writings, they were, by no-means without their blemishes, nor were they

worthy of being compared with the classical authors to which we have

alluded. But Champlain's discourse is so straightforward, and the thought

so simple and clear, that the meaning is seldom obscure, and his occasional

violations of grammar and looseness of style are quite pardonable in one

whose occupations left him little time for correction and revision. Indeed,

one rather wonders that the unpretending explorer writes so well. It is the

thought, not the words, which occupies his attention. Sometimes, after

beginning a period which runs on longer than usual, his interest in what he

has to narrate seems so completely to occupy him that he forgets the way in

which he commenced, and concludes in a manner not in logical accordance

with the beginning. We subjoin a passage or two illustrative of his

inadvertencies in respect to language. They are from his narrative of the

voyage of 1603, and the text of the Paris edition is followed:

1. "Au dit bout du lac, il y a des peuples qui sont cabannez, puis on entre

dans trois autres riuieres, quelques trois ou quatre iournees dans chacune,

où au bout desdites riuieres, il y a deux ou trois manières de lacs, d'où

prend la source du Saguenay." Chap. iv.

2. "Cedit iour rengeant tousiours ladite coste du Nort, iusques à vn lieu

où nous relachasmes pour les vents qui nous estoient contraires, où il y

auoit force rochers & lieux fort dangereux, nous feusmes trois iours en

attendant le beau temps" Chap. v.

3. "Ce seroit vn grand bien qui pourrait trouuer à la coste de la Floride

quelque passage qui allast donner proche du & susdit grand lac." Chap. x.

4. "lesquelles [riuieres] vont dans les terres, où le pays y est tres-bon &

fertille, & de fort bons ports." Chap. x.

5. "Il y a aussi vne autre petite riuiere qui va tomber comme à moitié

chemin de celle par où reuint ledict sieur Preuert, où sont comme deux

manières de lacs en ceste-dicte riuiere." Chap. xii.

The following passages are taken at random from the voyages of 1604-10, as

illustrative of Champlain's style in general:

1. Explorations in the Bay of Fundy, Voyage of 1604-8. "De la riuiere

sainct Iean nous fusmes à quatre isles, en l'vne desquelles nous mismes

pied à terre, & y trouuasmes grande quantité d'oiseaux appeliez Margos,

don't nous prismes force petits, qui sont aussi bons que pigeonneaux. Le

sieur de Poitrincourt s'y pensa esgarer: Mais en fin il reuint à nostre

barque comme nous l'allions cerchant autour de isle, qui est esloignee de

la terre ferme trois lieues." Chap iii.

2. Explorations in the Vineyard Sound. Voyage of 1604-8. "Comme nous eusmes

fait quelques six ou sept lieues nous eusmes cognoissance d'vne isle que

nous nommasmes la soupçonneuse, pour auoir eu plusieurs fois croyance de

loing que ce fut autre chose qu'vne isle, puis le vent nous vint contraire,

qui nous fit relascher au lieu d'où nous estions partis, auquel nous fusmes

deux on trois jours sans que durant ce temps il vint aucun sauuage se

presenter à nous." Chap. xv.

3. Fight with the Indians on the Richelieu. Voyage of 1610.

"Les Yroquois s'estonnoient du bruit de nos arquebuses, & principalement de

ce que les balles persoient mieux que leurs flesches; & eurent tellement

l'espouuante de l'effet qu'elles faisoient, voyant plusieurs de leurs

compaignons tombez morts, & blessez, que de crainte qu'ils auoient, croyans

ces coups estre sans remede ils se iettoient par terre, quand ils

entendoient le bruit: aussi ne tirions gueres à faute, & deux ou trois

balles à chacun coup, & auios la pluspart du temps nos arquebuses appuyees

sur le bord de leur barricade." Chap. ii.

The following words, found in the writings of Champlain, are to be noted as

used by him in a sense different from the ordinary one, or as not found in

the dictionaries. They occur in the voyages of 1603 and 1604-11. The

numbers refer to the continuous pagination in the Quebec edition:

_appoil_, 159. A species of duck. (?)

_catalougue_, 266. A cloth used for wrapping up a dead body. Cf. Spanish

_catalogo_.

_déserter_, 211, _et passim_. In the sense of to clear up a new country by

removing the trees, &c.

_esplan_, 166. A small fish, like the _équille_ of Normandy.

_estaire_, 250. A kind of mat. Cf. Spanish _estera_.

_fleurir_, 247. To break or foam, spoken of the waves of the sea.

_legueux_, 190. Watery.(?) Or for _ligneux_, fibrous.(?)

_marmette_, 159. A kind of sea-bird.

_Matachias_, 75, _et passim_. Indian word for strings of beads, used to

ornament the person.

_papesi_, 381. Name of one of the sails of a vessel.

_petunoir_, 79. Pipe for smoking.

_Pilotua_, 82, _et passim_. Word used by the Indians for soothsayer or

medicine-man.

_souler_, 252. In sense of, to be wont, accustomed.

_truitière_, 264. Trout-brook.

The first and main aim of the translator has been to give the exact sense

of the original, and he has endeavored also to reproduce as far as possible

the spirit and tone of Champlain's narrative. The important requisite in a

translation, that it should be pure and idiomatic English, without any

transfer of the mode of expression peculiar to the foreign language, has

not, it is hoped, been violated, at least to any great extent. If,

perchance, a French term or usage has been transferred to the translation,

it is because it has seemed that the sense or spirit would be better

conveyed in this way. At best, a translation comes short of the original,

and it is perhaps pardonable at times to admit a foreign term, if by this

means the sense or style seems to be better preserved. It is hoped that the

present work has been done so as to satisfy the demands of the historian,

who may find it convenient to use it in his investigations.

C. P. O.

BOSTON, June 17, 1880

THE SAVAGES

OR VOYAGE OF

SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN

OF BROUAGE,

Made in New France in the year 1603.

DESCRIBING,

The customs, mode of life, marriages, wars, and dwellings of the Savages of

Canada. Discoveries for more than four hundred and fifty leagues in the

country. The tribes, animals, rivers, lakes, islands, lands, trees, and

fruits found there. Discoveries on the coast of La Cadie, and numerous

mines existing there according to the report of the Savages.

PARIS.

Claude de Monstr'oeil, having his store in the Court of the Palace, under

the name of Jesus.

WITH AUTHORITY OF THE KING.

DEDICATION.

To the very noble, high and powerful Lord Charles De Montmorency, Chevalier

of the Orders of the King, Lord of Ampuille and of Meru, Count of

Secondigny, Viscount of Melun, Baron of Chateauneuf and of Gonnort, Admiral

of France and of Brittany.

_My Lord,

Although many have written about the country of Canada, I have nevertheless

been unwilling to rest satisfied with their report, and have visited these

regions expressly in order to be able to render a faithful testimony to the

truth, which you will see, if it be your pleasure, in the brief narrative

which I address to you, and which I beg you may find agreeable, and I pray

God for your ever increasing greatness and prosperity, my Lord, and shall

remain all my life,

Your most humble

and obedient servant,

S. CHAMPLAIN_.

EXTRACT FROM THE LICENSE

By license of the King, given at Paris on the 15th of November, 1603,

signed Brigard.

Permission is given to Sieur de Champlain to have printed by such printer

as may seem good to him, a book which he has composed, entitled, "The

Savages, or Voyage of Sieur de Champlain, made in the Year 1603;" and all

book-sellers and printers of this kingdom are forbidden to print, sell, or

distribute said book, except with the consent of him whom he shall name and

choose, on penalty of a fine of fifty crowns, of confiscation, and all

expenses, as is more fully stated in the license.

Said Sieur de Champlain, in accordance with his license, has chosen and

given permission to Claude de Monstr'oeil, book-seller to the University of

Paris, to print said book, and he has ceded and transferred to him his

license, so that no other person can print or have printed, sell, or

distribute it, during the time of five years, except with the consent of

said Monstr'oeil, on the penalties contained in the said license.

THE SAVAGES,

VOYAGE OF SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN

MADE IN THE YEAR 1603.

CHAPTER I.

BRIEF NARRATIVE OF THE VOYAGE FROM HONFLEUR IN NORMANDY TO THE PORT OF

TADOUSSAC IN CANADA

We set out from Honfleur on the 15th of March, 1603. On the same day we put

back to the roadstead of Havre de Grâce, the wind not being favorable. On

Sunday following, the 16th, we set sail on our route. On the 17th, we

sighted d'Orgny and Grenesey, [121] islands between the coast of Normandy

and England. On the 18th of the same month, we saw the coast of Brittany.

On the 19th, at 7 o'clock in the evening we reckoned that we were off

Ouessant. [122] On the 21st, at 7 o'clock in the morning, we met seven

Flemish vessels, coming, as we thought from the Indies. On Easter day, the

30th of the same month, we encountered a great tempest, which seemed to be

more lightning than wind, and which lasted for seventeen days, though not

continuing so severe as it was on the first two days. During this time, we

lost more than we gained. On the 16th of April, to the delight of all, the

weather began to be more favorable, and the sea calmer than it had been, so

that we continued our course until the 18th, when we fell in with a very

lofty iceberg. The next day we sighted a bank of ice more than eight

leagues long, accompanied by an infinite number of smaller banks, which

prevented us from going on. In the opinion of the pilot, these masses of

ice were about a hundred or a hundred and twenty leagues from Canada. We

were in latitude 45 deg. 40', and continued our course in 44 deg..

On the 2nd of May we reached the Bank at 11 o'clock in the forenoon, in 44

deg. 40'. On the 6th of the same month we had approached so near to land

that we heard the sea beating on the shore, which, however, we could not

see on account of the dense fog, to which these coasts are subject. [123]

For this reason we put out to sea again a few leagues, until the next

morning, when the weather being clear, we sighted land, which was Cape

St. Mary. [124]

On the 12th we were overtaken by a severe gale, lasting two days. On the

15th we sighted the islands of St. Peter. [125] On the 17th we fell in with

an ice-bank near Cape Ray, six leagues in length, which led us to lower

sail for the entire night that we might avoid the danger to which we were

exposed. On the next day we set sail and sighted Cape Ray, [126] the

islands of St. Paul, and Cape St. Lawrence. [127] The latter is on the

mainland lying to the south, and the distance from it to Cape Ray is

eighteen leagues, that being the breadth of the entrance to the great bay

of Canada. [128] On the same day, about ten o'clock in the morning, we fell

in with another bank of ice, more than eight leagues in length. On the

20th, we sighted an island some twenty-five or thirty leagues long, called

_Anticosty_, [129] which marks the entrance to the river of Canada. The

next day, we sighted Gaspé, [130] a very high land, and began to enter the

river of Canada, coasting along the south side as far as Montanne, [131]

distant sixty-five leagues from Gaspé. Proceeding on our course, we came in

sight of the Bic, [132] twenty leagues from Mantanne and on the southern

shore; continuing farther, we crossed the river to Tadoussac, fifteen

leagues from the Bic. All this region is very high, barren, and

unproductive.

On the 24th of the month, we came to anchor before Tadoussac, [133] and on

the 26th entered this port, which has the form of a cove. It is at the

mouth of the river Saguenay, where there is a current and tide of

remarkable swiftness and a great depth of water, and where there are

sometimes troublesome winds, [134] in consequence of the cold they bring.

It is stated that it is some forty-five or fifty leagues up to the first

fall in this river, and that it flows from the northwest. The harbor of

Tadoussac is small, in which only ten or twelve vessels could lie; but

there is water enough on the east, sheltered from the river Saguenay, and

along a little mountain, which is almost cut off by the river. On the shore

there are very high mountains, on which there is little earth, but only

rocks and sand, which are covered, with pine, cypress and fir, [135] and a

smallish species of trees. There is a small pond near the harbor, enclosed

by wood-covered mountains. At the entrance to the harbor, there are two

points: the one on the west side extending a league out into the river, and

called St. Matthew's Point; [136] the other on the southeast side extending

out a quarter of a league, and called All-Devils' Point. This harbor is

exposed to the winds from the south, southeast, and south-southwest. The

distance from St. Matthew's Point to All-Devils' Point is nearly a league;

both points are dry at low tide.

ENDNOTES:

121. Alderney and Guernsey. French maps at the present day for Alderney

have d'Aurigny.

122. The islands lying off Finistère, on the western extremity of Brittany

in France.

123. The shore which they approached was probably Cape Pine, east of

Placentia Bay, Newfoundland.

124. In Placentia bay, on the southern coast of Newfoundland.

125. West of Placentia Bay.

126. Cape Ray is northwest of the islands of St. Peter.

127. Cape St. Lawrence, now called Cape North, is the northern extremity of

the island of Cape Breton, and the island of St. Paul is a few miles

north of it.

128. The Gulf or Bay of St. Lawrence. It was so named by Jacques Cartier on

his second voyage, in 1535. Nous nommasmes la dicte baye la Sainct

Laurens, _Brief Recit_, 1545, D'Avezac ed. p. 8. The northeastern part

of it is called on De Laet's map, "Grand Baye."

129. "This island is about one hundred and forty miles long,

thirty-five miles broad at its widest part, with an average

breadth of twenty-seven and one-half miles."--_Le Moine's

Chronicles of the St. Lawrence_, p.100. It was named by Cartier

in 1535, the Island of the Assumption, having been discovered on

the 15th of August, the festival of the Assumption. Nous auons

nommes l'ysle de l'Assumption.--_Brief Recit_, 1545, D'Avenzac's

ed. p. 9. Alfonse, in his report of his voyage of 1542, calls it

the _Isle de l'Ascension_, probably by mistake. "The Isle of

Ascension is a goodly isle and a goodly champion land, without

any hills, standing all upon white rocks and Alabaster, all

covered with wild beasts, as bears, Luserns, Porkespicks."

_Hakluyt_, Vol. III. p. 292. Of this island De Laet says, "Elle

est nommee el langage des Sauvages _Natiscotec_"--_Hist. du

Nouveau Monde_, a Leyde, 1640, p.42. _Vide also Wyet's Voyage_ in

Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 241. Laverdière says the Montagnais now

call it _Natascoueh_, which signifies, _where the bear is

caught_. He cites Thevet, who says it is called by the savages,

_Naticousti_, by others _Laisple_. The use of the name Anticosty

by Champlain, now spelled Anticosti, would imply that its

corruption from the original, _Natiscotec_, took place at a very

early date. Or it is possible that Champlain wrote it as he heard

it pronounced by the natives, and his orthography may best

represent the original.

130. _Gachepé_, so written in the text, subsequently written by the author

_Gaspey_, but now generally _Gaspé_. It is supposed to have been

derived from the Abnaquis word _Katsepi8i_, which means what is

separated from the rest, and to have reference to a remarkable rock,

three miles above Cape Gaspé, separated from the shore by the violence

of the waves, the incident from which it takes its name.--_Vide

Voyages de Champlain_, ed. 1632, p. 91; _Chronicles of the St.

Lawrence_, by J. M. Le Moine, p. 9.

131. A river flowing into the St. Lawrence from the south in latitude 48

deg. 52' and in longitude west from Greenwich 67 deg. 32', now known

as the Matane.

132. For Bic, Champlain has _Pic_, which is probably a typographical error.

It seems probable that Bic is derived from the French word _bicoque_,

which means a place of small consideration, a little paltry town. Near

the site of the ancient Bic, we now have, on modern maps, _Bicoque_

Rocks, _Bicquette_ Light, _Bic_ Island, _Bic_ Channel, and _Bic_

Anchorage. As suggested by Laverdière, this appears to be the

identical harbor entered by Jacques Cartier, in 1535, who named if the

Isles of Saint John, because he entered it on the day of the beheading

of St. John, which was the 29th of August. Nous les nommasmes les

Ysleaux sainct Jehan, parce que nous y entrasmes le jour de la

decollation dudict sainct. _Brief Récit_, 1545, D'Avezac's ed. p. 11.

Le Jeune speaks of the _Isle du Bic_ in 1635. _Vide Relation des

Jésuites_, p. 19.

133. _Tadoussac_, or _Tadouchac_, is derived from the word _totouchac_,

which in Montagnais means _breasts_, and Saguenay signifies _water

which springs forth_, from the Montagnais word _saki-nip_.--_Vide

Laverdière in loco_. Tadoussac, or the breasts from which water

springs forth, is naturally suggested by the rocky elevations at the

base of which the Saguenay flows.

134. _Impetueux_, plainly intended to mean _troublesome_, as may be seen

from the context.

135. Pine, _pins_. The white pine, _Pinus strobus_, or _Strobus

Americanus_, grows as far north as Newfoundland, and as far south as

Georgia. It was observed by Captain George Weymouth on the Kennebec,

and hence deals afterward imported into England were called _Weymouth

pine_--_Vide Chronological History of Plants_, by Charles Picketing,

M.D., Boston, 1879, p. 809. This is probably the species here referred

to by Champlain. Cypress, _Cyprez_. This was probably the American

arbor vitæ. _Thuja occidentalis_, a species which, according to the

Abbé Laverdière, is found in the neighborhood of the Saguenay.

Champlain employed the same word to designate the American savin, or

red cedar. _Juniperus Virginiana_, which he found on Cape Cod--_Vide_

Vol. II. p. 82. Note 168.

Fir, _sapins_. The fir may have been the white spruce, _Abies alba_,

or the black spruce, _Abies nigra_, or the balsam fir or Canada

balsam, _Abies balsamea_, or yet the hemlock spruce, _Abies

Canadaisis_.

136. _St. Matthew's Point_, now known as Point aux Allouettes, or Lack

Point.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p 165, note 292. _All-Devils' Point_, now

called _Pointe aux Vaches_. Both of these points had changed their

names before the publication of Champlain's ed., 1632.--_Vide_ p. 119

of that edition. The last mentioned was called by Champlain, in 1632,

_pointe aux roches_. Laverdière thinks _ro_ches was a typographical

error, as Sagard, about the same time, writes _vaches_.--_Vide Sagard.

Histoire du Canada_, 1636, Stross. ed., Vol I p. 150.

We naturally ask why it was called _pointe aux vaches_, or point of

cows. An old French apothegm reads _Le diable est aux vaches_, the

devil is in the cows, for which in English we say, "the devil is to

pay." May not this proverb have suggested _vaches_ as a synonyme of

_diables_?

Voyages of Samuel De Champlain — Volume 01 · 第 1 / 13 章