Chapter III. Present State of the Colony.

Agriculture, etc.

The account of land in cultivation, as it appeared at the last

muster taken by me, according to direction which I received from

his Honour Lieutenant-Governor Foveaux, and making a part of the

several tracts granted by the crown to settlers, etc. as

described in the survey, stood as follows:--

Belonging to the Crown--100 acres in wheat.

Belonging to Officers--326 1/2 acres of wheat, 178 acres

of maize, 22 1/2 acres of barley, 13 acres of oats, 13/4

acres of pease and beans, 191/4 acres of potatoes, 65 acres of

orchard, and 6 acres of flax and hemp.

Belonging to Settlers--6460 1/2 acres of wheat, 32111/4

acres of maize, 512 acres of barley, 79 1/2 acres of oats,

983/4 acres of pease and beans, 2813/4 acres of potatoes, 13

acres of turnips, 4811/4 acres of garden and orchard, and

28 1/2 acres of flax, hemp, and hops.

Total.--6887 acres of wheat, 33891/4 acres of maize,

534 1/2 acres of barley, 92 1/2 acres of oats,

100 1/2 acres of pease and beans, 301 acres of potatoes, 13

acres of turnips, 5461/4 acres of orchard and garden, 34 1/2

acres of flax, hemp, and hops.

The following is the general course of cultivation adopted,

and justified by experience:--

_January_.--The ground intended for wheat and barley to

be sown in, ought to be now broken up; carrots should also be

sown, and potatoes planted in this month are most productive for

the winter consumption.

_February_.--A general crop of turnips for sheep, etc.

should be sown this month, the land having been previously

manured, cleared, ploughed, etc. This is also the proper month

for putting Cape barley in the ground, for green food for horses,

cattle, etc.

_March_.--Strawberries should be planted this month, and

onions for immediate use should be sown. All forest land should

be now sown with wheat; and turnips, for a general crop, in the

proportion of one pound of seed to an acre of land.

_April_.--From the middle of this month, until the end of

May, is the best season for sowing wheat in the districts of

Richmond Hill, Phillip, Nelson, and Evan, as it is not so subject

to the caterpillar, smut, rust, and blight. Oats may also be sown

now for a general crop. Asparagus haulm should also be cut and

carried off the ground, and the beds dunged.

_May_.--Pease and beans for a field crop should be sown

in this month; but, in gardens, at pleasure, as you may be

supplied with them, as well as most other vegetable productions,

sallads, etc. nearly at all times of the year.

_June_.--This is the best season for transplanting all

kinds of fruit-trees, except evergreens; layers may also be now

made, and cuttings planted from hardy trees. Spring barley should

be sown this month upon all rich land, three bushels to an

acre.

_July_.--Potatoes which were planted in January are now

fit for digging. Stocks to bud and plant upon should now be

transplanted; cabbage and carrots may be sown; and strawberries

should be cleaned, and have their spring dressing.

_August_.--Potatoes must now be planted for general

summer use; the ground prepared for clover at this season is

best. Cucumbers and melons of all kinds should now be sown, and

evergreens transplanted. Vines ought to be cut and trimmed early

in this month. Ground may this month also be ploughed for the

reception of maize, and turnip land prepared for grass.

_September_.--This is the best season for grafting

fruit-trees, and the ground should be entirely prepared for

planting with maize. Grass-seed or clover should be sown in the

beginning of this month, if the weather is favourable, and there

is a prospect of rains.

_October_.--All fruit-trees now in bearing should be

examined, and where the fruit is set too thick, it must be

reduced to a moderate quantity. The farmer should plant as much

of his maize this month as possible, and clean ground for

potatoes.

_November_.--In this month the harvest becomes general

throughout the colony, and no wheat ought to be stacked upon the

ground, as the moisture which arises from the earth ascends

through the stack, and tends much, in this warm climate, to

increase the weevils, which prove very destructive to the wheat.

Evergreens may now be propagated by layers, and cabbage, lettuce,

and turnips sown.

_December_.--The stubble-ground is frequently planted

with maize in this month, so that it produces a crop of wheat and

another of maize in the same year; but the policy of thus forcing

the ground is much questioned by many experienced agriculturists,

and is supposed to have led to the ruin of some of these

avaricious farmers. Cauliflower and brocoli seeds may now be

sown.

The prices paid for planting, clearing ground, etc. is as

follows, according to the regulations specified in the general

orders:--For felling forest timber, 10s. per acre; for

burning off ditto, 25s. per acre; for breaking up new

ground, 24s. per acre; for breaking up stubble or corn

land, 13s. 4d. per acre; for chipping in wheat,

6s. 8d. per acre; for reaping ditto, 8s. per

acre; for threshing ditto, 7d. per bushel; for planting

maize, 6s. 8d. per acre; for hilling ditto,

6s. 8d. per acre; and for pulling and husking

ditto, 5d. per bushel.--The hours of public labour are

from sunrise to eight o'clock, and (Sundays excepted) from nine

to three. On Saturdays, on account of the stores being open for

the issue of provisions, the hours are from sunrise to nine

o'clock.

Yearly wages for servants, with board, 10L.; weekly

ditto, with provisions, 6s.; daily wages, with board,

1s.; and daily wages, without board, 2s.

6d.

The following is an accurate account of Live Stock, taken at

the same time as the preceding statement of land in

cultivation:--

Belonging to the Crown--28 male horses, 19 female ditto; 21

bulls, 1791 cows; 1800 oxen; 395 male sheep, and 604 female

ditto.

Belonging to Officers--81 male horses, 146 female ditto; 38

bulls, 1111 cows; 696 oxen; 2638 male sheep, 5298 female ditto;

40 male goats, 73 female ditto; 486 male pigs, and 537 female

ditto.

Belonging to Settlers--258 male horses, 329 female ditto; 40

bulls, 1906 cows; 1172 oxen; 7449 male sheep, 15,327 female

ditto; 799 male goats, 1670 female ditto; 7693 male pigs, and

7435 female ditto.

Belonging to Persons not holding Land--44 male horses, 35

female ditto; 19 bulls, 307 cows; 103 oxen; 325 male sheep, 1222

female ditto; 97 male goats, 296 female ditto; 1641 male pigs,

and 1576 female ditto.

Total of Stock--411 male horses, 529 female ditto; 118 bulls,

5115 cows; 3771 oxen; 10807 male sheep, 22,451 female ditto; 936

male goats, 2039 female ditto; 9820 male pigs, and 9548 female

ditto.

The common lands to the various districts, which were located

in perpetuity in 1804, are now felt very serviceable, and were

just granted at a period that prevented any of the settlers from

being thoroughly enclosed, so that every grazier has now an

opportunity of feeding his stock thereon, without confining

himself to the quantity of land he chooses to cultivate on his

own farm.

From the above statements it will most certainly appear, that

the colony is in a very flourishing state, and, no doubt, will

soon become independent of the mother country, if those methods

are pursued which are best calculated to promote this end. No one

step has latterly been taken to facilitate this desirable object

more than the measures adopted by Colonel Johnstone and

Lieutenant-Governor Foveaux, who distributed the breeding cattle

amongst the industrious and deserving settlers; a step which has

produced benefits of a two-fold nature--laying the foundation for

the more rapid increase of stock, and affording a stimulus to

meritorious exertion. In the districts about Hawkesbury, the

grain yields abundantly; but at the other settlements it is less

productive: The reason of this distinction must be chiefly

obvious to the reader of the preceding sketch, in the liability

of the soil at the former settlement to frequent inundations,

which serve every purpose of manure, and uniformly keep the

ground in a mellow state. It has been erroneously stated, that

the average produce of the land in New South Wales is sixty

bushels of wheat per acre; but I can take upon myself to say,

that twenty-five bushels an acre will be found the full extent of

the average produce. When a comparison is made between the

present state of the country and its former condition, the

improvements will appear considerable in agriculture, and almost

incredible in every other respect. The season for the gathering

in of the wheat has been gradually accelerated, ever since the

commencement of the colony; and the harvest of the last year

previous to my departure from the settlement, commenced nearly a

month sooner than it did at the first: The fruit seemed also

later.

Prices of Provisions, and Ration.

The following was the current price of Articles of Food, in

the year 1809:--Wheat 12s. per bushel; maize 5s.

per bushel; barley 5s. per bushel; oats 4s.

6d. per bushel; potatoes 10s. per cwt.; turnips

4d. per bunch; carrots 6d. per bunch; cabbages

3d. each; lemons 6d. per dozen; peaches 2d.

per dozen; apples 2s. per dozen; pears 3s. per

dozen; strawberries 1s. per quart; quinces 2s. per

dozen; water melons 9d. each; musk and other melons

1s. each; apricots 1s. per dozen; mulberries

1s. per quart; Cape gooseberries 8d. per quart;

native currants 8d. per quart; oranges, raspberries,

grapes, plums, almonds, pomegranates, limes, shaddocks, citrons,

pine-apples, nectarines, and guavas, are to be procured; but

their prices are variable, some of them being more scarce than

others. Cucumbers 1d. each, mushrooms 8d. per

quart, French beans 4d. per quart, onions 20s. per

cwt. peas 1s. per quart, beans 9d. per quart,

asparagus 2s. per hundred, artichokes 6d. each,

spinage 1s. per dish, pumpkins 6d. each,

cauliflowers 6d. each, brocoli 6d. per dish, figs

3d. per dozen. Beet-root, lettuces, raddishes, sallad of

all kinds, horse-raddish, samphire, watercresses, celery, endive,

and herbs of every description, are extremely plentiful, and to

be purchased at reasonable rates.

Animal food is to be procured at the following prices:--Beef

1s. 3d. per lb.; mutton 1s. 3d. per

lb.; pork 1s. per lb.; lamb 1s. 3d. per lb.;

kangaroo 8d. per lb. (the flesh of this animal is somewhat

similar in taste to English beef, but rather inferior, owing to

the want of fat); goat mutton 1s. per lb.; turkeys

10s. each; geese 8s. each; ducks 4s. each;

Muscovy ducks 5s. each; fowls 2s. 6d. each;

wild ducks 2s. each; teal 1s. 3d. each;

rabbits 4s. each; roasting pigs 5s. each; pigeons

1s. 3d. each; kids 5s. each; eggs 1s.

6d. per dozen; butter 6s. per lb.; milk 1s.

per quart; cheese 2s. 6d. per lb.; oysters

1s. per quart; and lobsters 1s. each.

Fish is exceedingly numerous of every description, and is very

good as well as moderate in charge. A turtle was caught recently

in Broken Bay, with a hook, weighing seven hundred weight, which

was retailed to the inhabitants at 4d. per lb.

The following is to be considered as a full weekly Ration,

which is issued from the stores whenever there is a sufficiency

without a prospect of want, to those who are in the employ of

government:--Seven pounds of salt beef, or four pounds of salt

pork; eight pounds of flour or meal, or an addition of a quarter

of a pound of wheat to each pound, if it cannot be ground; pease

or other pulse, three pounds; six ounces of sugar in lieu of

butter. The same quantity is to be given by their employer to

those who are indented to settlers, etc.; but as frequent

alterations are necessarily made, according to the pressure of

circumstances, the deficiency is generally made up with

maize.

Trade and Manufactures.

A manufactory has been established for coarse woollen

blanketing or rugs, and coarse linen called drugget; a linen of a

very good quality has also been produced, which has been disposed

of to settlers, etc. and issued from the stores to those who

labour for the crown. The spinning has been done by the female

convicts, and the weaving, etc. by the male. The person who

superintended this department, for some time, was George

Mealmaker, a well-known political character in North Britain; but

he has been dead some years, and the manufactory, which adjoins

the goal at Parramatta, has been almost entirely destroyed by

fire; consequently, the progress which would have been made in

this manufacture has been greatly retarded. When I left the

colony, however, a very deserving, respectable, and persevering

settler, at Hawkesbury, was about to commence in that way on a

very extensive scale; for which laudable purpose he had sown

several acres with flax and hemp, and I am hopeful his exertions

will tend to benefit the colony, to which the establishment of a

manufactory of this description has been long an object ardently

to be desired; and it is to be hoped, that the effort of this new

speculator will be crowned with that success which it so

eminently deserves.

The leather made from the skins of cattle, kangaroo, seal,

etc. are extremely good, and are tanned by a bark which grows

in the settlement, much sooner than a similar operation is

performed in England. The sole leather, in my opinion, cannot be

surpassed in point of goodness; and every improvement which can

arise from competition may be naturally expected, since there are

several persons who follow this line of business both at Sydney

and Parramatta.

Several potteries have been established; but the most

celebrated manufacturer of this description, named Skinner,

lately died. His dishes, plates, basons, covers, cups and

saucers, teapots, and chimney ornaments, were in a very superior

style of workmanship; and other useful articles equally

handsome.

Tobacco-pipes, which, some years ago, at the cheapest periods

cost sixpence each, are now manufactured in the settlement, of a

very good quality, and are retailed for one penny each. The great

propensity to smoking which prevails throughout the colony,

causes an astonishing consumption of this article, and has well

repaid the original speculator.

Salt is made in great abundance from salt water; and large

salt-pans have been erected at Rose Bay, whence, and at

Newcastle, great quantities are made and sent to Sydney. A plan,

however, had been proposed to the governor, for making it by

evaporation, which it was supposed would be carried into effect;

it was in agitation, and was nearly brought to perfection when

this statement was made.

Some very palatable beer is brewed in the settlement, at four

extensive breweries; one at Sydney, one at Kissing Point, one at

Parramatta, and the other at Hawkesbury; and a number of persons

brew their own beer. Some improvements here may yet be looked

for, since at present the grain is malted very badly in the

colony, which I attribute more to the want of proper utensils

than any deficiency of ability. In a short time also they will be

enabled to grow a sufficiency of hops in the settlement for every

purpose, without being compelled, as at present, to have recourse

to the mother country for this necessary article.

Eight wind-mills have been erected for the purpose of grinding

corn; and a water-mill, which had been erected at Parramatta,

has, most unfortunately, been destroyed by a flood, which came on

some time previous to my leaving the colony.

There are four auctioneers, or vendue masters, in the

settlements; two at Sydney, one at Parramatta, and one at

Hawkesbury: They usually charge five per cent. on sales.

The shops are particularly respectable, and decorated with

much taste. Articles of female apparel and ornament are greedily

purchased; for the European women in the settlement spare no

expense in ornamenting their persons, and in dress, each seems to

vie with the other in extravagance. The costliness of the

exterior there, as well as in most other parts of the world, is

meant as the mark of superiority; but confers very little grace,

and much less virtue, on its wearer, when speaking of the dashing

belles who generally frequent the Rocks, who may often be seen of

an evening attired in the greatest splendour, and on the

following morning are hid from public view with extremely mean

attire.

Spirits are also bought up with astonishing rapidity; and,

when prohibited, will ever be obtained by some means or other,

and I have known it to sell as high as thirty shillings per

bottle; the general price by the retailer, however, is from ten

to sixteen shillings per bottle. Most of the people in the

colony, male and female, give way to excessive drinking. Wines

are not so eagerly sought after, and are therefore more

reasonable than might be expected; but if the rage for luxuries

continues to increase in the same proportion as it has done for

the last few years, it must soon obtain an enhanced price, and a

more rapid sale. The evils consequent upon the unrestrained use

of these articles, are such as to justify the most poignant

regrets that they should be held in such estimation by all

descriptions of persons, since they have proved from their first

introduction into the colony, and still continue to be, the

fertile sources of social disorder, of domestic misery, of

disorders, and of death. It is to no purpose that the higher

orders set examples of sobriety and temperance; it is of no avail

that the governor uses every prudent exertion to restrain the

immoderate traffic in these pernicious liquors; threats,

intreaties, and punishments, are equally useless; and while

spirits are to be procured, the inhabitants will possess them at

the price of every other comfort of life.

While on this subject, I shall just take occasion to advert to

a singular circumstance respecting the specie of the settlement.

The copper coin which was sent out by government, and was

originally issued at the close of the year 1800, has most

surprisingly decreased, as very little indeed is now used

currently. This occurrence is so strange in itself, that I am

totally at a loss to account for it, on any principles whatever.

Considering its rapid diminution, I cannot conjecture by what

means the circulation is still kept up; nor, on the other hand,

can I suppose that the coin is caught up for the purposes of

exportation, as it was issued in the colony, in the first

instance, at one hundred per cent. above its real value. The

scarcity of this specie, at all events, operates as an

obstruction to trade; and I think that some steps ought to be

taken to remove the cause of complaint, by filling up the

deficiency which has so unaccountably taken place.

Population.

There are nine thousand three hundred and fifty-six

inhabitants in the settlement, out of which number upwards of six

thousand support themselves, and the rest are victualled and

clothed at the expense of the crown. Most men of a trade or

profession pursue their calling; and labourers are either

employed by settlers to cultivate their lands, and in various

occupations, or work in different gangs, where they can be

serviceable.

When a transport arrives with prisoners, their irons are

immediately knocked off (if this has not been previously done),

unless some powerful reason exists to justify an exception from

this rule. The muster is taken by the commissary, who gives

receipts for every thing belonging to the crown; the list, with

remarks, is given to the governor, who orders them to what part

of the settlement he thinks proper, where the deficiency of hands

in agricultural or other employments renders such an acquisition

desirable.

The behaviour of the prisoners has recently been much less

exceptionable than in the earlier days of the settlement, and

they seem to have accommodated their dispositions, in a great

degree, to their new situations; those who are guilty of theft

have latterly been transported to some remote settlement, and

this system of punishment has been found more efficacious than

the infliction of castigation, or any other corporal punishment,

since they feel an unconquerable repugnance to the idea of a

separation from their old connections and companions, and a

removal to a solitary scene, where they cannot hope for any

opportunities of re-commencing those pursuits which are so truly

congenial to their dispositions.

Natives.

Speaking generally of the natives, they are a filthy,

disagreeable race of people; nor is it my opinion that any

measures which could be adopted would ever make them otherwise.

Their wars are as frequent as usual, and are attended with as

much cruelty both towards men and women. They are still ready at

all times to commit depredations upon the Indian corn, whenever

there is a probability of their attempts being attended with the

desired success; and this predatory disposition renders it

frequently necessary to send detachments of the military to

disperse them; but the utmost care is taken to prevent any fatal

circumstances from attending these acts of needful hostility, and

orders are uniformly issued never to fire upon the natives,

unless any particularly irritating act should render such a

measure expedient. They are amazingly expert at throwing the

spear, and will launch it with unerring aim to a distance of

thirty to sixty yards. I myself have seen a lad hurl his spear at

a hawk-eagle (a bird which, with wings expanded, measures from

seven to ten feet), flying in the air, with such velocity and

correctness as to pierce his object, and bring the feathered

victim to the earth. This circumstance will tend to shew how soon

the youth of these tribes are trained to the use of the spear,

and the dexterity to which they attain in this art before they

reach the age of manhood. Indeed, instances are by no means

uncommon, where an army of natives is seen following a youthful

leader of fifteen or sixteen years of age, and obeying his

directions implicitly, because his previous conduct had been

characterized by remarkable vigour of body, and intrepidity of

mind--virtues which qualify natives of every age and rank for the

highest honours and the most marked distinctions amongst these

untutored sons of nature. Their attachment to savage life is

unconquerable; nor can the strongest allurements tempt them to

exchange their wild residences in the recesses of the country,

for the comforts of European life. A singular instance of this

fact occurred in the case of Be-ne-long, who was brought to

England by Governor Phillip, and returned with Governor Hunter.

For some time after his return, it is true, he assumed the

manners, the dress, and the consequence of an European, and

treated his countrymen with a distance which evinced the sense he

entertained of his own increased importance; and this disposition

was encouraged by every method which suggested itself to the

minds of those of the colony with whom he associated; but,

notwithstanding so much pains had been taken for his improvement,

both when separated from his countrymen, and since his return to

New South Wales, he has subsequently taken to the woods again,

returned to his old habits, and now lives in the same manner as

those who have never mixed with the civilized world. Sometimes,

indeed, he holds intercourse with the colony; but every effort

uniformly fails to draw him once again into the circle of

polished society, since he prefers to taste of liberty amongst

his native scenes, to the unsatisfactory gratification which

arises from an association with strangers, however kind their

treatment of him, and however superior to his own enjoyments.

Yet there are many of the natives who feel no disinclination

to mix with the inhabitants occasionally--to take their share in

the labours and the reward of those who toil. Amongst these there

are five in particular, to whom our countrymen have given the

names of Bull Dog, Bidgy Bidgy, Bundell, Bloody Jack, and another

whose name I cannot call to recollection, but who had a farm of

four acres and upwards, planted with maize, at Hawkesbury, which

he held by permission of Governor King; and the other four made

themselves extremely useful on board colonial vessels employed in

the fishing and sealing trade, for which they are in the regular

receipt of wages. They strive, by every means in their power, to

make themselves appear like the sailors with whom they associate,

by copying their customs, and imitating their manners; such as

swearing, using a great quantity of tobacco, drinking grog, and

other similar habits. These natives are the only ones, I believe,

who are inclined to industrious behaviour, and they have most

certainly rendered more essential services to the colony than any

others of their countrymen, who, in general, content themselves

with assisting to draw nets for fish, for the purpose of coming

in for a share of the produce of others toil.

The general pursuits of the natives, their manners and

customs, have been so accurately described by preceding writers

on the subject, that I shall forbear from entering into more

minute particulars, which would swell my sketch far beyond its

intended limits, and could add nothing to the knowledge of which

the well-informed reader is already possessed. It will be

sufficient to remark, that such as the inhabitants of the

interior of New Holland were represented ten years since, they

still remain, as the antecedent remarks must sufficiently

illustrate: The jealousy of the new settlers, which originally

existed, has indeed entirely vanished; but the proximity of a

civilized colony has not tended in the least to polish the native

rudeness and barbarism, which mark the behaviour of the original

inhabitants of this remote spot of the universe.

Climate.

Although the climate is variable, yet it is very healthy, and

uncommonly fine for vegetation. Most of the disorders which exist

in the settlement are the fruits of intemperance and debauchery,

the necessary result of that fatal addiction to drunkenness,

which produces mental imbecility and bodily decay. Frost is known

but little; at least, ice is very seldom seen; and, I believe,

snow has never yet appeared since the establishment of the

colony: Yet on the highest ridges of the remoter mountains, to

which I have had occasion to allude as never yet having been

passed, snow is to be seen for a long time together; and this

circumstance is a proof of their elevation. The usual weather in

New South Wales is uncommonly bright and clear, and the common

weather there, in spring and autumn, is equal to the finest

summer day in England. This purity and warmth of atmosphere, it

may be naturally inferred, must be particularly favourable to the

growth of shrubs and plants, which flourish exceedingly, and

attain to a degree of perfection and beauty which is unknown to

the inhabitants of this country. The woods and fields present a

boundless variety of the choicest productions of nature, which

gratify the senses with their fragrance and magnificence; while

the branches of the trees display a brilliant assemblage of the

feathered race, whose plumage, "glittering in the sun,"

dazzles the eye of the beholder with its unmatched loveliness and

lustre, and presenting, on the whole, a scene too rich for the

pencil to pourtray--too glowing and animated for the feeble pen

of mortal to describe with half the energy and beauty which

belong to it, and without which description is unfaithful.

Natural History.

This subject has been so well treated, and the various species

of animals, etc. have been so accurately described, by those

who have treated on the history of this colony, that it would be

superfluous in me to re-tread the ground which has been already

so ably trodden. I shall therefore content myself with describing

the few natural productions of the country of New Holland, which

have been discovered subsequent to the latest publication on the

subject, and concerning which, consequently, no information of an

accurate and public nature has yet been transmitted to this

country. The exploration of the works of nature in this immense

tract of the universe, is however still incomplete; and I have no

doubt but the lapse of a few years will tend greatly to the

augmentation of the knowledge we now possess on this interesting

subject, and will prove the fertile source of new delight and

instruction to the mind which can derive enjoyment from that pure

source, the contemplation of nature in her varied and astonishing

works.

The Koolah, or Sloth, a singular animal of the Opossum

species, having a false belly, was found by the natives, and

brought into the town alive, on the 10th of August, 1803. This is

a very singular animal; for when it ascends a tree, at which it

is astonishingly expert, it will never quit it until it has

cleared it of its leaves. It is mostly found in the mountains and

deep ravines to the southward and northward of Broken Bay, and

the natives instantly discover its concealment by observing the

leaves of the Gum-tree eaten off, this being the tree which it

usually selects. It is astonishingly indolent, and is uniformly

found with a companion, locked in each other's arms, as it were.

Its claws are very strong, and are of material service in

assisting it to climb trees; its length from eighteen inches to

two feet; and two stuffed specimens are to be seen in Mr.

Bullock's Museum.

Latterly also, a species of the Hyena has been found at Port

Dalrymple, which is extremely ferocious in appearance, has a

remarkably large mouth, is striped all over, very strongly

limbed, and its claws strong, long, and sharp. This animal is

likewise of the Opossum kind, having, like the generality of

subjects found in New Holland, a false belly. Notwithstanding its

apparent ferocity, it has never yet ventured to attack any human

being, but has confined its ravages to sheep and poultry, amongst

which it has committed frequent and very serious depredations. No

one of these animals, I believe, has hitherto been brought over

to England, either alive or dead, since their native fierceness

renders them less easy of capture than the Koolah.

Flying Mice are likewise found, in considerable numbers, in

this country, of a very handsome appearance, and also of the

Opossum species. The tail of this interesting little animal

resembles a feather; its belly is white, and its back brown; and

it is covered with a down as soft as satin. It flies like an

Opossum. This subject is much regarded for its beauty.

The Porcupine Ant-eaters are found in most parts of the

country, and are esteemed very good eating; they burrow in the

earth, and have a tongue of remarkable length, which they put out

of their mouth, and the ants immediately crowd upon it, as if

lured by some particular attraction, and when it appears to be

pretty well covered, it is drawn in with rapidity, and the

insects are expeditiously swallowed.--Stuffed specimens of these

are also to be seen in the Museum of Mr. Bullock.

Black and white mottled Fern tree was found at the head of

Lane Cove, by Colonel Paterson, about five years since; but it

does not run to any considerable size. It is esteemed a very

handsome wood for the purposes of veneering.

The Spice tree has also been found to the southward: It is a

very strong aromatic, and possesses a more pungent quality than

pepper. This tree produces a berry, which, as well as the bark,

is of a very powerful spicy nature.

Fustic has been discovered at Newcastle--a wood which makes

the finest yellow dye; but it has been hitherto confined to New

South Wales. Indigo was also found in different parts of the

country; but, after a thorough trial of its properties by a

French gentleman of much patience and experience, as well as by

some other individuals of research, it was found impossible to

derive any benefit from it.

Native green currants grow wildly, and make an uncommonly fine

jelly. A wild cherry is also found in the settlement, growing

with the stone on the outside, of a red colour, but nearly unfit

to eat; as also a wild fig, equally nauseous, full of seed, but

eaten by the natives. Strawberries grow to fine perfection; but

no English currant, gooseberry, or cherry trees, are to be seen

in the country: Some were brought from England by Captain Kent,

of the royal navy, and were in a flourishing state, with some

gingers, from Rio de Janeiro, when a fire happened upon that

gentleman's farm, and consumed the whole, which has been a very

great loss to the colony. Pines, far exceeding in size those of

England, are now growing there, but they are scarce; melons, on

the contrary, are very large and plentiful. Botany Bay greens are

procured in abundance; they much resemble sage in appearance, and

are esteemed a very good dish by the Europeans, but despised by

the natives. The bark of a tree called Carajong, which grows like

a willow, is manufactured into ropes of considerable strength. A

single nectarine tree only has been known to bear fruit, which is

in the Government Garden. Some coffee trees were planted by a

Frenchman (Mons. Declambe), but he unfortunately died before he

could bring them to perfection.

The shrubs and plants of this country are all evergreens, and

numbers of them are to be seen, covered with beautiful blossoms,

at all seasons of the year. Jeraniums flourish in such abundance,

that, in various parts of the settlement, they are made into

hedges, and are so thick as to be almost impenetrable; they are

always in leaf and flower, and emit an odour of the most fragrant

nature, perfuming the surrounding atmosphere.

Cedar, and coals, of a very fine quality, are the produce of

the Newcastle district, and are procured with very little

trouble. Manna has also been found near Port Dalrymple, made by

the locusts on the trees, from which it drops in very

considerable quantities. But the most prizable subjects which

have been discovered here are, the valuable stones; of which the

white, yellow, and large brilliant Topazes, are considered of far

greater worth than those which are produced in any part of the

Brazils; since I was informed, when at Rio Janeiro, in the month

of August, 1809, by a number of gentlemen of the best

information, amongst whom were the Marquis de Pomball and the

Judge Consalvadore, that none which had been found on that coast,

could bear a comparison with those of New Holland.

The other animals of this country; the numerous, curious, and

beautiful birds, which abound there; and the various reptiles

which have been discovered, have been already sufficiently

described: More of the latter, however, have subsequently been

discovered to be of a venomous nature than was formerly

conjectured; and the bite of several species of the Coluber, or

Snake, have proved, in various instances, fatal, in the course of

a very few minutes after the wound has been received. It is to be

wished that some mode of cure could be discovered.--It is worthy

of remark, that at Norfolk Island, a spot where a settlement was

made, and which has been subsequently evacuated, about three

hundred leagues from the nearest coast of New South Wales, no

reptiles of any description are to be found; while at Phillip

Island, only seven miles from Norfolk Island, several species of

reptiles exist in abundance, such as the Centipede, Tarantula,

etc.

Religion.

The religion most generally followed in the colony of New

South Wales, is that established according to the usage of the

Church of England; and it is a subject of satisfaction to observe

that the churches are, generally speaking, well attended. A great

part of the military corps, with their officers, uniformly attend

divine service.--A Roman Catholic priest (the Rev. Mr. Dixon) was

formerly allowed by government to preach in public, but this

indulgence has been subsequently withdrawn from some cause or

other; and I am somewhat inclined to attribute this alteration to

the seditious conduct of the Irish prisoners, some years since,

in which it was proved that another priest (Mr. Harold) bore a

conspicuous part, upholding and encouraging the designs of those

who entertained schemes inimical to the existing government, and

subversive of the welfare of the colony.

Some of the Missionary Society preach at the out-settlements,

frequently on a Sunday, with various success; and it is much to

be lamented, that in the selection of these men, who are sent out

to enlighten and instruct the ignorant, greater attention is not

paid to their qualifications; and the abuses which are practised

under the cloak of religion, in these remote parts of the world,

call loudly for a close investigation, and a total reformation of

the system. That there are amongst these Missionaries men of

strict fidelity, whose hearts are engaged in the task they have

undertaken, and whose conduct has justly gained them the esteem

and veneration of all classes, is a fact which no dispassionate

observer can deny; but it is also equally notorious, that there

are too many of an opposite description, who practise every vice,

and do the most serious injury to that sacred cause to which they

have been delegated, and have engaged to support. If greater

pains were taken in the choice of servants, the Missionary

institution might tend to the more rapid promotion of the

knowledge of religion; but the work will be retarded while

improper instruments are used. A Missionary, of irreproachable

character, was unhappily murdered a few years since, by some

persons whom he had served, and who adopted this new and inhuman

method of repaying the obligation which had been conferred upon

him.

The natives are in general very superstitious, and entertain

some singular notions respecting their deceased friends and

countrymen, of which very ample accounts are given in

Lieutenant-Governor Collins's interesting publication. Their

funeral ceremonies are extremely impressive, and every mark of

respect, which suggests itself to their untaught minds, is paid

to the body of the deceased. A barbarous custom, however,

prevails, which is sanctioned by their rude ideas of

religion:--When a mother dies, while giving suck to an infant,

the living babe is uniformly thrown into the grave of the parent,

and the father having cast a stone upon it, the earth is cast

into the pit, and thus the innocent offspring is immolated to an

erroneous and superstitious prejudice.

Amongst the convicts the influence of superstition is less

prevalent, although, amongst many of the lower orders of Irish,

the traces of it are to be discovered; it leads, however, to no

injurious consequences, and deserves encouragement, in preference

to those totally irreligious principles which might naturally be

expected to shew themselves amidst a body of men, of characters

and dispositions so hostile to every thing which is virtuous,

dignifying, and good.

Morals.

The morals of the colony are by no means so debauched as the

tongue of prejudice has too frequently asserted; on the contrary,

virtuous characters are not rare, and honourable principles are

not less prevalent here than in other communities of equal extent

and limited growth. The instances of drunkenness, dishonesty, and

their concomitant offences, are not more common than in the

mother country; and those amongst the convicts who are disposed

to return to their old habits, and re-commence their depredations

upon society are deterred by the severe punishment which awaits

their detection: There are many also amongst the prisoners

themselves, who are now striking examples of probity, industry,

temperance, and virtue; and some have obtained a remission of the

punishment which occasioned their residence in the settlement, in

consequence of the signal and radical change which had taken

place in their inclinations and behaviour. Where there is society

their must exist offences; but, on the whole, considering the

nature of the colony of New South Wales, the morals of the people

are as free from glaring defects, as those of any other tract of

equal population in the habitable world; and the characters which

are celebrated for their virtues are as numerous, in proportion,

as those which are to be found in other countries, where

civilization and prosperity have made greater progress, and where

individuals have greater inducement to labour, and the prospect

of a brighter reward for their industrious exertions.

Amusements.

The erection of a play-house was noticed in the preceding part

of this sketch; the abuses which were uniformly committed on the

nights of performance, subsequently rendered that a nuisance

which was originally intended for an innocent recreation. When

the inhabitants were engaged in this enjoyment, their property

was left unwatched, and there were ever numbers of dishonest

individuals who were ready to seize upon these opportunities to

gratify their vicious dispositions. It was also a common practice

to give provisions to obtain entrance, if money was scarce; and

thus, by the frequent privations of their regular food, many of

the convicts were unable to pursue their labour with proper

energy and activity. Other abuses also resulted from the

establishment of the theatre, which induced the governor to recal

the permission which had been given for the performances, and the

playhouse itself was soon afterwards levelled to the ground.

Since the destruction of this building, the sources of

amusement have been confined to cricket, cards, water-parties,

shooting, fishing, hunting the kangaroo, etc. or any other

pleasures which can be derived from society where no public place

is open for recreations of any description. The officers of the

colony have also built a private billiard-room, by subscription,

for their own use; and if these amusements possess not that

degree of attraction which is attached to dramatic

representations, they cannot, on the other hand, be liable to

those abuses, and produce those injurious consequences, which

previously existed.

Amongst the convicts, indeed, gaming is carried, too

frequently, to the most deplorable excesses; and, in some cases,

the most abandoned of the prisoners have actually staked the

clothes which they wore, and when those were lost, stood amongst

their companions in a state of nudity, thus reducing themselves

to a level with the natives of the woods. The most severe

measures were called for by this unprincipled practice, and the

most gross part of the custom was done away; but it was

impossible to put a total stop to the gratification of this

gaming disposition, which is still pursued with equal avidity in

some way or other, and which may be said, next to drinking, to

constitute the chief pleasure and amusement of the lowest classes

of the prisoners.

The amusements of the natives need no recital here, as they

have been fully detailed in other publications.

Military Force.

The whole of the military in the colony consists of the New

South Wales corps (now the 102d regiment), two volunteer

associations, and a body-guard of troopers for the governor,

commanded by a serjeant. In fact, the inutility of a larger

military force must be obvious to every man of common reflection,

since it is merely required for the purposes of preserving

domestic peace, which might be in danger of continual

interruptions, in case of the absence of military power

altogether, from the turbulent dispositions of many of the

convicts. This inclination to revolt, however, is repressed by

the appearance of a few organized troops; and a sufficient check

is kept upon the natives, who still continue to make occasional

incursions, and commit their depredations upon the India corn of

the settlers, whenever an opportunity offers itself: At these

periods the soldiers are called in, and a few of them are found

sufficient to drive back the plunderers, who hate and fear the

approach of a soldier.

Buildings.

The buildings are of stone, brick, and lath and plaister;

weather-boarded; and the houses are durable. There are two

churches; one, St. Philip's, which possesses a very handsome

service of communion plate, presented by his Majesty, and

received by the Calcutta, on the 8th of October, 1803; and the

other, St. John's, at Parramatta: There are likewise a school and

chapel at Hawkesbury, where divine service is performed. Two

jails have also been erected in the colony. A house has been

built for the governor at each of the principal settlements;

which also possess several very commodious barracks, with many

other public buildings, and a great number of extensive and

handsome houses, the property of private individuals. There are a

stone bridge, and several very substantial wooden ones, which, if

not celebrated for beauty, are found extremely serviceable, and

well calculated for all the present purposes of the colony, which

is not yet sufficiently advanced in prosperity to prefer ornament

to use. A new stone citadel is in a course of building, on which

the Royal Standard, for the first time in these settlements, was

hoisted on the 4th of June, 1803; and several batteries are

erected.--For a more particular account of the buildings at

Sydney, I must refer the reader to the following explanation of

the Views of Sydney, the principal seat of government, which

accompany this sketch:--

In the View of Sydney, from the East side of the Cove, No. I.

the house under two birds, as r r, is the Residence of the

Governor in Chief, which is built of brick, plaistered over; has

very convenient stables and outhouses, and is a very pleasant and

comfortable residence; the garden and shrubbery extend to about

four acres. The Flag-staff near the gardenhouse bears the Union

on holidays, and different signal-colours are used there to form

a communication between the shore and the king's vessels in the

Cove. The Pine tree growing in the garden is from Norfolk Island,

and runs to an amazing height and thickness; the knots from this

tree are used instead of flambeaux, and burn remarkably well. The

buildings under three birds, as r r r, extending some distance

right and left, and forming a square, are the Military Barracks,

built of brick, the largest of which was erected by

Lieutenant-Governor Foveaux: This is an extensive well-built

place, and was finished in far less time than any building ever

begun upon by government in that settlement, considering its

magnitude. The White House and Warehouses, which appear

immediately under that building, although a considerable distance

on this side, belong to Mr. Simeon Lord; they are built of stone,

and the dwelling-house is by far the most magnificent in the

colony. The road leading through Barrack-square is the high road

to Parramatta. The house at the head of Government-wharf, shewing

four windows on the ground floor, is a Dry Storehouse belonging

to the crown, and is used for depositing articles for barter,

etc. in, which are sent out by government for that purpose.

The small yellow house behind it belongs to government, and is

inhabited by Mr. John Gowen, one of his majesty's store-keepers

in that settlement. The yellow house, on the right of the

Barrack-square, and having nine windows in front on each floor,

is an extensive Government Granary, and was built of brick,

plaistered over, under the direction of his excellency Governor

Hunter. Attached to this building, on the right, is a very useful

Military Store; and, on the left, a Store for the issue of

Provisions. The red house, to the right, built of brick, with two

wings, is the Female Orphan-house, which is a very convenient

building, and was purchased from Captain Kent, of the royal navy,

but great additions have been made to it subsequent to its

purchase. The long building above the Orphan-house, of which only

a part of the front is seen, is built of brick, and belongs to

Garnham Blaxcell, Esq. whose zeal for the colony, and whose

industry, have equally entitled him to the esteem and praise of

all. The house a little to the right of the Orphan-house, and

appearing to have a wing, is the Dwelling, and, attached to it,

are the Warehouses of Mr. James Underwood; they are built of

brick, and are extremely commodious and comfortable. The building

above is the Church, as the tower denotes; it is built of stone,

and has a peal of eight bells therein, but they are not very

harmonious. On the right of the one road leading to the church,

the building with four windows and two doors in front, and the

erection above it, are two Government Store-houses, built of

brick and plaister; the first is generally used for bonding of

spirits in, for naval stores, etc.; and the other for the

reception of salt provisions, when any arrive from England. The

Windmill on the hill is built of stone, and belongs to

government; and the building on the right, which is continued in

View, No. II. with a wall round it, is built of stone, and forms

part of the County Gaol. In the fore ground, six of the Natives

are in the attitude of throwing the spear; two with spears; one

with a spear and helemon, or shield; and two sitting down.--Of

the dexterity with which they hurl this weapon, some notice has

been taken in a preceding part of this sketch.

In View, No. II. taken from the East side of the Cove, the

long building, with a flight of steps, is the County Gaol, of

which a part is seen in No. I. The White Building, to the right

of the Prison, of which only three windows in front, and the

warehouses around it, are discovered, belongs to Mr. Henry Kable,

who, with Messrs. Lord and Underwood, have been very industrious

and enterprising men in the oil and sealskin trade, etc. and

possess a number of vessels and considerable estates in the

colony. The two small Houses, rather to the right, below the

Gaol, built of brick, are used for the boats' crews. The

Warehouses which hide part of these huts, and the House above,

belong to Mr. Isaac Nichols; they are very extensive and

commodious, and are built of stone. The House, still further to

the right, with a door, four windows, and two side-lights, in

front, and kitchen detached, belongs to Mr. Thomas Moore, the

principal shipwright, a man of unshaken integrity and large

property. The wharf near this part, is called the Hospital Wharf,

where all merchandize, etc. is directed to be landed. The Road

leading on the hill, takes different directions to the houses and

streets on the rocks. The three long buildings, on the right of

the road, are the General Hospitals; and in the front of them is

the Government Dock-yard. Next, to the right of the Hospitals,

one building with eight windows and two doors in front, and the

other with four windows and a door, with side-lights, in front,

are the Barracks occupied by the Medical Staff. The two next

buildings are not tenanted by their late possessors. The large

buildings to the right, at the water's edge, are the House and

extensive Warehouses of Robert Campbell, Esq. a merchant, where a

ship of large dimensions can load or unload, with any tide,

alongside his wharf. Near this place a vessel belonging to that

gentleman some time ago caught fire, and after a great deal of

trouble she was sunk, by which means the fire was extinguished;

she was afterwards got up, and underwent such repairs as soon

enabled her to proceed on her voyage. Where the yellow flag is

seen flying, on Dawes's Point, there is a Battery, and

Lookout-house, to communicate with the signals for ships in the

offing at South Head. The River round the point leads to several

agricultural and farming districts, and to Parramatta. On the

hill is the Citadel, with the union flag flying, and two

Government Wind-mills, one built of wood and the other of stone,

the latter of which is unserviceable. The other buildings belong

to individuals indiscriminately. The Canoes, with fires in them,

belong to the natives.

In View, No. I. taken from the West side of the Cove, on one

side of the land which is farthest seen, is the Harbour; and on

the other, is an amazing expanse of sea. There is a carriage-road

made from Sydney to the extreme point, which is South Head, and a

great many carriages and horsemen frequently go down there to

spend the day, or to see any vessels which may appear off the

land. On South Head are, a Flag-staff, a Lookout-house, and an

Obelisk; and betwixt it and the North Head, is a narrow entrance,

by which vessels enter the port, about seven miles from Sydney.

The small island in the centre is called Pinch-gut, which name

originated from some persons being placed there on an allowance

of provisions for some offence, where they built an oven, the

remains of which are yet to be seen: At this time there is a man

named Brown, before spoken of, hung in chains on this spot, for

committing several murders. The other islands, between these and

the heads, are called Garden, Shark's, and Clark's Islands. On

the land to the right of Pinch-gut, called Be-ne-long's Point,

the native of that name, who was once in England, had a hut built

by government; but he soon left it, and it was destroyed: There

are also the remains of a battery there. Under two birds, as r r,

are two Houses on a point of land leading from Farm Cove, the

next cove to the eastward of Sydney. Under a large flight of

birds, are three Wind-mills, and an extensive Bakehouse; two of

which, and the bake-house, belong to John Palmer, Esq. and the

other to Mr. Henry Kable. Beneath them is Government House, and

part of the offices, and grounds. To the right of the Government

wharf are the Dry Stores spoken of in No. I. from the east side.

The building above that, of brick, is the Main Guard-house, and

is a very convenient place for that purpose. The Stone-house, and

offices, to the right of the Dry Stores, with five windows on a

floor, belong to Mr. Thomas Reiby; the brick House, nearly

adjoining, to Mr. Andrew Thompson; and the large Stone-house and

Warehouses, to Mr. Simeon Lord, spoken of in No. I. of the other

Views; in the front of which buildings is the principal road

leading to Government House, where are houses and offices for the

Judge Advocate, Commissary, Clergyman, and Surveyor-General; but

they are mostly hidden in this View by the trees and large

buildings before them. The stone building at the stern of the

Sloop, comprises the Warehouse and part of the House belonging to

Mr. Isaac Nichols, spoken of in No. II. of the other Views, and

continued in the next of this. The buildings concealed by part of

the long shed near, but on this side Mr. Nichols's, is the back

part of the Assistant-Surgeon's Barracks. The house behind the

trees is the back of the Barracks of the principal Surgeon. The

house near the Natives, who are fighting, is not occupied by any

person of particular consequence; and the one, partly hidden by

the rocks, was occupied by Mr. Moore, but is going to decay.

In View, No. II. taken from the West side of the Cove, the

lofty House of which a part is seen, and which was spoken of in

No. II. of the other Views, and I. of this, belongs to Mr. Isaac

Nichols; and the buildings on this side are the back of the

General Hospital. The Bridge, the only one built of stone in the

whole colony, is a very bad structure; the walls on each side of

the arch inclose the grounds belonging to the Orphan-house and

Mr. Simeon Lord. The road seen on the other side of the bridge is

called Spring-row; it leads to several streets, and joins the

main road to Parramatta, etc.; below the paling of which there

are very large Tanks, cut in rocks, to supply the town and

shipping with water; but there is another watering-place for

ships on the north side of the Cove, very commodious, and the

permission to use which produces a small annual income to the

Orphan fund. The rows, commencing above the foot of the Bridge,

on the east side, are called Chapel, Pitt's, and Serjeant-Major's

rows, the latter of which, under the two birds, runs to the

Brick-fields, towards Parramatta. The House on the right, at this

end of the longest street, seen in this View, with three windows

and a door visible, belongs to Garnham Blaxcell, Esq. spoken of

in No. I. of the other Views. The building, the eastern end of

which is partly covered by a tree, is the most southern Military

Barrack. The two lofty red houses at the west foot of the Bridge,

in the rise, are side-views of the Orphan-house and Mr. James

Underwood's, spoken of in No. I. of the other Views. The houses

on the right, a spot called the Rocks, belong to different

individuals, and some of them are very comfortable

habitations.

Over the south creek at Hawkesbury a floating-bridge has been

erected, which has proved greatly beneficial to the public;

since, previous to its completion, every person who had occasion

to go to that settlement, and in many cases from one farm to

another, was obliged to pass to and fro in a boat. As this bridge

was constructed by an individual (Mr. Andrew Thompson, a settler)

at his own expense, the following tolls are allowed to be

demanded:--For every foot-passenger, four-pence, or ten shillings

per annum; for each horse, single or in draught, two shillings

and sixpence, or two pounds ten shillings per annum; for waggons,

or other four-wheel carriages, with not more than half a ton

lading, one shilling and sixpence, or one pound ten shillings per

annum; for carts, or carriages with two wheels, laden or not,

each one shilling and sixpence, or one pound ten shillings per

annum; for sheep, under a score, two-pence each, and by the score

two shillings and sixpence, or two pounds ten shillings per

annum; swine and goats, the same as sheep. Passengers, horses,

carts, and carriages, are allowed to pass and re-pass, during the

same day, with one ticket; and a considerable income is derived

from this toll.

* * * * *

The children born in this colony from European parents, are

very robust, comely, and well made; nor do I recollect a solitary

instance of one being naturally deformed. They are remarkably

quick of apprehension; learn any thing with uncommon rapidity;

and greatly improve in good manners, promising to become a fine

race of people.

The Duke of Northumberland has sent over some Teeswater sheep,

and one stallion, very recently, to Colonel Johnston, which have

greatly improved the breed of both. Mr. Mac Arthur took over some

Merino sheep, from the King's flock, which are thriving, and the

wool of which is extremely fine; several samples have been

produced in England. The deer in this colony (originally, I

believe, from India) thrive very well, but are of the Rein

species, and rather inclined to be small: I have seen some very

good venison, and of a superior flavour to any I ever eat in

England, though not so fat; the breed might be much improved by a

few being sent of a larger quality. Some time ago several made

their escape from a park belonging to Mr. Harris, who has for

many years been surgeon of the regiment there, and before I left

the colony, they were breeding and running wild in the woods.

Several foreign vessels have within these few years arrived

here on discovery; but nothing material has resulted from their

observations, with which the reader has not been made

acquainted.

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