WOOD CONSTRUCTION
WOOD CONSTRUCTION
INTRODUCTORY REMARKS
As the child develops, paper construction loses its charm, and a desire
for something utilitarian arises. We suggest that at this stage the
much-treasured pocket knife be brought into service, for from small
pieces of wood many articles may be made. The construction of these
will afford the child, especially the boy, much pleasure, and will at
once arouse a new interest.
Only the simplest articles will be given here--articles which may be
fashioned from bits of wood commonly found around a house, such as old
cigar boxes, small starch boxes, etc. But, should the teacher be able
to obtain the proper materials, basswood a quarter or three-eighths of
an inch thick, and whittling knives are the requisites.
The reader will notice that the wood mentioned for each model is bass.
Why? Because bass is the wood generally used for carving. The tree is
the same as the linden and the lime. It is found in northern Asia,
Europe, and North America, and grows to an immense height. The wood is
soft, light, close-veined, pliable, tough, durable, and free from
knots, and does not split easily; all of which qualities favor its
suitability for carving.
In whittling, it is always best to lay off the pattern on both sides of
the wood. Then one can work from either side without fear of spoiling
the material.
In cutting, work with the grain, or the wood will be apt to split. Cut
toward you, not from you.
In grooving, use the point of the knife, and work slowly and carefully.
If the knife slips the wood is ruined.
Insist that nothing the child does is well done unless well
sandpapered, and nothing is properly sandpapered until all roughness is
done away with, and the grain appears.
In the making of designs, let the child first have a piece of paper the
size of the wood he is to use, and have him work out a design to be
applied to his wood. This design may be most crude, but with a
suggestion here, and a correction there, from the teacher, it can be
brought into shape. The child will be pleased, and will attack with
more assurance of success each succeeding problem that he meets.
For coloring, use water color paints. Red, green, and yellow are most
satisfactory, as their identity is retained when staining is applied.
Apply the stain with a brush, and with a soft cloth rub it in until it
is dry. This develops or brings out the grain.
When sure that the stain is well rubbed in and dry, apply butcher's
wax, and polish with a soft cloth. Some articles need two coats of
stain, and an equal amount of polish.
In all work impress upon the child the fact that what is worth doing is
worth doing well, or it should not be done at all.
Each model given works out a problem in handling the knife and cutting
the wood, and each problem leads up to the one that follows.
We will begin with the simplest thing one can make--a puzzle.
1 Puzzle
_Problem_--To cut with the grain of the wood, and how to cut
corners. (See page 57.)
_Material_--Basswood: one piece 7×1-1/2×3/16 inches; one
piece 3×1-1/2×3/16 inches. One yard of macramé cord.
Shave the 7×1-1/2-inch strip of wood down with a knife until it is an
inch wide, being careful to keep the edges parallel. Measure off
three-eighths of an inch in opposite directions on each corner and on
both sides of the wood. Connect these points by a pencil line. Cut off
each corner the space indicated by the line. Be careful always to cut
with the grain of the wood; cutting against it will split the board.
Next, three-fourths of an inch from each end, and equally distant from
the sides, and in the center, bore holes. From the 3×1-1/2-inch piece
of wood, cut two blocks one and one-half inches square, and bore a hole
in the center of each. Double the string to a loop and draw this loop
through the center hole of the rectangular strip. Pull the loop to the
edge, and draw through it the two ends of the cord. String the
1-1/2-inch blocks, one on each cord, then tie the ends of cord in the
two end holes of the rectangular strip.
The puzzle is finished. What is the aim, and how can it be solved?
[Illustration: PUZZLE]
_Solution._ Mark one block. Hold one in the hand and move the other
along until it passes through the loop at the center.
Pull the cord through the middle hole until it draws with it four
thicknesses of cord. Now slide the block along until it passes through
a double loop. Next, draw this double loop back through the hole; the
string will be in position, and the block is now passed along through a
single loop and onto the string containing the other one. To replace
the block, turn the puzzle around and repeat the process.
2 Plant Label
_Problem_--To cut across the grain, and, by removing two
equal triangles, to form a well-tapered point.
_Material_--One piece of basswood, 6×1×1/4 inches.
[Illustration: PLANT LABEL]
Take the end A B and find the center, C. From A measure off two and a
half inches, and place point D. From B measure off two and a half
inches, and place point E. Connect points CD and CE. Place the same
measurements on the reverse side. With the knife cut off triangles
A-C-D and B-C-E. Sandpaper the wood until it is smooth and the label is
finished.
3 Pencil Sharpener
_Problem_--Curve-cutting.
_Material_--One piece of basswood, 6-1/2×1-1/4×1/4 inches.
One piece of sandpaper, 1×3-1/8 inches. Glue. Stain.
On the wood place points three and a quarter inches from each end, at A
and B, and connect them by line A-B. Place points G and H half an inch
from C and D. Start your curve at G, pass through I, and end at H. In
the rectangle A-B-F-E draw a handle as indicated in the diagram. Shape
the other end by removing spaces G-C-I and H-D-I. Sandpaper thoroughly.
Shape one end of the 1×3-1/8-inch piece of sandpaper as curve G-I-H,
and glue it to the wood. Stain the wood and polish it by rubbing it
with a soft cloth.
[Illustration: PENCIL SHARPENER]
4 Match Scratch
_Problem_--Curve and cross-grain cutting.
_Material_--One piece of basswood, 3-3/4×3×1/4 inches. One
piece of sandpaper, 2-1/2×3 inches. Glue.
[Illustration: MATCH SCRATCH]
Place a point at the center of line A-B and of line C-D. Place a point
on line A-C and line B-D, one and one-quarter inches from A and B.
Connect these points by a pencil line, and draw another line one-eighth
of an inch below. Score these two lines with the point of the knife,
making a tiny groove. Draw curves A-E and B-E, the highest point of the
curve being half an inch from the edge A-E-B. Draw curves G-F and H-F.
Remove spaces 1, 2, 3, and 4. Sandpaper thoroughly the edges and sides.
Shape the piece of sandpaper, two and a half by three inches, to fit
the space G-F-H, allowing a quarter-inch margin, and glue it on. Bore a
hole at 5. Do not stain.
[Illustration: KITE STRING WINDER]
5 Kite-String Winder
_Problem_--Cross-grain cutting.
_Material_--One piece of basswood, 5-1/2×2-1/2×1/4 inches.
Measure and lay off as shown in the diagram, and cut out all spaces
indicated by dotted lines. Sandpaper the wood until it is smooth. Stain
the winder or not, as is preferred.
6 Thermometer Back
_Problem_--Beveling and grooving. (See page 62.)
_Material_--One piece of basswood 6×3×1/4 inches. Stain.
For the thermometer back the measurements need be placed on but one
side of the wood.
Mark off a quarter-inch from the edge all around and draw a line. Place
a second line a quarter-inch within this. Using the line nearest the
edge as a guide, cut off the sharp edges on the face of the strip of
wood until the slant surface is reached between the line and the back
edge. This makes the bevel. The inner line is a guide for spacing the
design. Originate a simple design, and lay it off on the board in
pencil. Then, using the point of the knife, with the greatest care
groove out the design. Place a hole near the top of the strip by means
of which to hang it. Notice that the design fits around the hole.
Sandpaper, stain, and polish the wood.
The design given here is the simplest that can be made. It is suggested
that until the child becomes accustomed to working with the knife, all
designs for grooving had better be confined to straight lines. Combine
in a design a vertical, a horizontal, and an oblique line, and some
beautiful patterns may be originated.
7 Pocket Pin-Cushion
_Problem_--Circular cutting, grooving, stenciling, and
coloring. (See page 63.)
_Material_--Basswood: two pieces, 3×3×1/4 inches. One piece
of heavy felt 3×3×1/4 inches. Glue. Water-color paints.
Stain.
Find the center of each square of wood by drawing the diagonals. With
the compass at the radius of one and one-half inches, describe a circle
on each piece of wood (on one side only). Remove spaces A, B, C, and D
with the knife, and you have a circular block. Remember to cut with the
grain. Bevel the edges. Make an original design and apply it to your
wood. With the knife groove the outline of this design. There should be
a space three-eighths of an inch wide between the edge of the wood and
the outer edge of the design. When the design is grooved in, color
it. Red, green and yellow are the best colors. Their identity is not
lost in staining. Lastly, stain and polish the face of the blocks. Cut
the felt the size of the blocks, cover the back of each block with
glue, place the felt between the two, and keep the whole in press for
several hours. The model here suggests two designs. These are given
simply as illustrations. Use the same design for both backs of the
cushion.
[Illustration: THERMOMETER BACK--(For description see page 61.)]
[Illustration: PIN CUSHION]
[Illustration: DESIGNS FOR PIN CUSHION]
8 Picture Frame
_Material_--Basswood, sweet gum, walnut or oak. One piece,
8×6×1/4 inches, for frame; one piece, 5-1/4×4×1/4 inches,
for back; one piece, 4-1/2×3×1/4 inches, for supports; two
pieces, 3-1/4×3/8×1/4 inches, and one piece, 5-1/4×3/8×1/4
inches for cleats. Glue. Half-inch brads.
Should basswood be used it must be stained. Sweet gum, walnut, or oak
may be left in its natural state, and oiled to bring out the grain and
finish.
[Illustration: PICTURE FRAME]
On the 8×6×1/4-inch board mark off with a pencil a center space
2-3/4×3-3/4 inches in size. With a gimlet bore holes at points A, B, C,
and D. Connect these holes with a pencil line as a guide for cutting.
Along the line make a groove which may be broadened and deepened until
the board is cut through. By working around the square in this way, the
center will soon be opened. Trim the wood as smoothly as possible with
a knife; then use sandpaper to level and finish off. Bevel the edge of
the opening if you wish.
Cut in half the 4-1/2×3×1/4-inch piece of wood, and make two supports,
as in Figure 2. With a pencil draw the shape of these supports on the
wood; in whittling work very carefully, as they are small and will
easily split. As far as possible, hold the pieces so that the knife
will shave with the grain of the wood. In crosscut work from the
opposite side. In straight cut, keep notches at opposite ends, so that
if the knife should slip and the wood split no serious damage will be
done.
Place the cleats on the back half an inch from the opening, the longer
fitting in between the two shorter ones. Glue them on, then nail them.
Against these cleats glue the back (1) before nailing it. Next glue and
nail on the two supports against the back and on a level with the lower
edge (Figure 4). On the fourth side, where there is no cleat, is the
opening through which the picture is slipped. When the frame is
satisfactorily sandpapered, oil and polish it.
9 Japanese Box
_Problem_--To construct a box having lid and bottom extend
beyond sides.
_Stock_--Basswood: two pieces, each 8-1/2×3-1/2×1/4 inches,
for lid and bottom; two pieces, each 8×2×1/4 inches, for
sides; two pieces, each 2-1/2×2×1/4 inches, for ends; two
pieces, each 2-1/2×1/4×1/4 inches, for cleats. Glue.
Half-inch brads. Stain. Wax.
[Illustration: JAPANESE BOX]
On the 8-1/2×3-1/2×1/4-inch pieces of wood, cut a bevel a quarter of an
inch wide.
Place the two ends between the two sides; glue and nail. Set this
rectangular frame on the under side of the bottom, equally distant from
each edge, and trace the shape with a pencil. Remove the frame; the
pencil line indicates where the nails are to be driven to secure the
frame to the base. Now set the frame on the upper side of the bottom;
aim for the same spacing as on the under side, and mark off. Carefully
cover the lower edge of this frame with glue, place it on the base and
press the two until the glue is dry. Drive the brads through from the
under side of the base an eighth of an inch within the guiding line.
Having beveled and sandpapered the lid, trace a design on it, and
outline this design by grooving.
[Illustration]
Nail the 2-1/2×1/4×1/4-inch cleats to the under side of the lid,
five-eighths or an inch from each end and half an inch from each side.
These cleats fit into the box and hold the lid on.
Stain, wax, and polish the box.
10 Grandfather's Chair
_Material_--Basswood: three pieces 5×2×1/8 inches; one piece
2×2×1/8 inches. Brads. Sandpaper. Glue. Stain or oil.
[Illustration: GRANDFATHER'S CHAIR]
Measure and lay off as you have done in making the other small pieces
of wood work. Handle the knife most cautiously, as the wood is so thin
that it is easily split. When all parts are cut out and well
sandpapered glue them together and secure them by driving in the brads
about an inch apart along the line of the seat and where the arms join
the back. Stain or oil as most convenient, or as taste dictates.