whole of Wales. Then there were five principalities, each of which had
a bishop. These were Bangor, Llanelwy (St. Asaph's), St. David's,
Llandaff and Llanbadarn, afterwards incorporated with St. David's.
Judging from the number of the names of saints which occur in Welsh
nomenclature, we may conclude that the Welsh Church was famous for its
zeal and activity and for the holiness of its members. It sent
preachers and missionaries to Ireland, to Brittany, and Cornwall and
Devon. It founded colleges and schools, and the great Celtic Church
assisted in the conversion of the Northern Saxons of England, and even
sent missionaries to the Continent. By degrees the British Church
became merged in the English, founded by Augustine, and with the
appointment of Norman prelates in the time of the Conqueror, any
lingering survivals of ancient customs and usages were lost, and the
unity of the church fully established.
The earliest bishop of the See of Llandaff whose name is recorded was
St. Dubricius. He is reputed to have founded the see in 612 A.D., but
his successor, St. Teilo, seems to have had the chief credit of
accomplishing the work. Of course the mythical King Lucius is dragged
in as the earliest founder, but we have always neglected the legends
connected with him. Of the early Welsh bishops we have no sure
information, though there is the famous _Book of Llandaff_, which does
not afford much certain knowledge, and is full of inaccuracies. Bishop
Urban was consecrated in 1107, conveyed here the relics of Dubricius,
and began to rebuild his Cathedral, for which an indulgence was
granted by the Archbishop of Canterbury to all who should assist him
in the work. Possibly it was finished in his time, but we have no
certain information, and the stones of the church can alone tell the
story of its building. During the thirteenth century the western part
of the nave was erected, and also the chapter-house, which is of Early
English design. During the Decorated period the Lady Chapel was added
and the presbytery rebuilt, and the walls of the aisles also renewed.
The north-west tower was erected in the Perpendicular period by the
Earl of Pembroke, uncle of Henry VII. Thus the church was completed.
It was not a very beautiful structure, and time has dealt hardly with
it. The spoilers at the Reformation plundered it; decay and desolation
reigned in the deserted "long-drawn aisle." Some bishops seem to have
attempted to do something, but the whole condition of the church was
deplorable. Then the troubles of the Civil War period fell upon this
Job-like structure, and in spite of some attempts to improve its
condition at the Restoration, and at subsequent periods, it still
remained in a ruinous state. Then in 1723, when the taste for Italian
models was rampant, the authorities erected an Italian temple-like
building at the east end. This happily has been entirely removed
during the restorations, which commenced in the middle of the last
century, when the church was completely renovated, and all the old
portions which had escaped the action of time, or the barbarous
efforts of the followers of Christopher Wren, restored to their
original state. The work was finished in 1869. Although much of the
church is new, on close inspection we can discover some ancient work
that lacks not interest.
The _West Front_ is very beautiful. The doorway is a fine example of
Early English work. It consists of a round arch, with two sub-arches,
and in the tympanum there is an episcopal figure, probably that of St.
Dubricius. The shafts at the sides of the doorway are Early English.
Above them are lancet windows, and in the gable a figure of our Lord
in glory. The cross above the gable is modern. The front is flanked on
each side by two towers. The north-west tower is Perpendicular, the
work of Jasper Tudor, Earl of Pembroke, uncle of Henry VII.; the
south-west tower is modern.
The _Nave_ consists of five bays, and is of Early English design.
There is no triforium. The clerestory windows are lancets, and a
passage runs in front of them. We notice the graceful foliage on the
pier capitals, of Late Early English design, when the stiff-leaved
foliage was giving way to the more natural foliage of the Decorated
period. The aisles were rebuilt in the Late Decorated period, but two
Norman doorways on the north and south sides were preserved. The choir
is of the same character as the nave, but in the presbytery we see
some of the Norman work of Urban's church, mixed with that of the
Decorated period. Here stood the Italian temple, until happily this
monstrosity was removed. The clerestory was destroyed when the temple
was erected, but in the restoration of Sir Gilbert Scott it was
rebuilt. On the south side we notice the curious blending of the
Norman with the Decorated work. One of the most striking features of
this Cathedral is the Late Norman arch at the east end. It is very
richly ornamented, and has four orders, being adorned with zigzag,
roll, and a curious row of flower-like circles. The reredos is modern,
and has some fine paintings by Rosetti. The sedilia are modern.
The _Lady Chapel_ has a stone vault, the ribs rising from Purbeck
marble shafts. The windows are of good design, having two lights with
a circle in the head. The east window is modern. The chapter-house is
Early English, and is almost unique in having a square plan with a
central pier.
Few of the monuments possess much interest. We notice that of St.
Dubricius; a brass memorial of Bishop Copleston (1849); Bishop William
de Bruce (1287); Bishop St. Teilo; Bishop Bromfield (1393); Bishop
Marshall (1496), a skeleton figure of the _memento mori_ type; Sir
David Matthew, standard-bearer to Edward IV. (1461); Sir William
Matthew; Lady Audley. The old reredos discovered during the
restoration has been placed in the north aisle of the choir.
ST. DAVID'S CATHEDRAL
Far away on the most western point of Southern Wales stands the
ancient Cathedral of St. David's, the most inaccessible, but the most
interesting of the four Welsh Episcopal churches. The see was founded
in the sixth century, and was known by the name Menevia. St. David was
the reputed founder of the see, concerning whom there are many
legends. He founded a monastery at Glyn Rhosyn, which became a
fruitful school of saints and Celtic worthies, wrought divers
miracles, and through him the Welsh Church extended its influence to
Ireland, and also to Scotland and Northumbria. After his death
troubles befell the monastery. It was plundered in 645, but recovered
from the disaster. Here Asser, the biographer of Alfred the Great,
acquired his wisdom. Then the Norse pirates frequently attacked the
place, and on one occasion, in 1011, Eadric of Mercia wrought havoc
here. But the see survived all these misfortunes, and here came
William the Conqueror, who made an offering at St. David's shrine. For
a time Welsh prelates continued to hold the see, but in 1115 Bernard,
the first Norman prelate, chaplain of the queen of Henry I., was
appointed to the see. Although he altered the constitution of the
chapter, he made no alterations in the old church. The rebuilding was
begun by Bishop Peter de Leia (1177-1198), but it is doubtful whether
he personally did much to forward the work, as on account of his
unpopularity he spent most of his time in England. However, the work
progressed rapidly during his episcopacy, and was finished in the
early years of the thirteenth century. After the fashion of cathedral
towers, the tower of St. David's fell in 1220, and was immediately
rebuilt. But it showed signs of again collapsing, and for centuries
was a cause of anxiety, until it was made secure by Sir G. Scott in
the restoration of 1866.
The greater part of the present building is Transitional Norman, but
there was much architectural activity in later periods. Owing to the
fall of the tower and the action of an earthquake in 1248, much
rebuilding was found necessary. The thirteenth century witnessed the
reconstruction of the north transept, together with the building of
the east chapels, which incline at so great an angle, much reparation
of the choir, and the commencement of the Lady Chapel and eastern
portion of the presbytery. During the Decorated period much work was
accomplished. Bishop Martyn (1290-1328) finished the Lady Chapel, and
Bishop Gower (1328-1347) did much for the fabric of the Cathedral, and
built the noble Palace, which is still beautiful in decay. His work is
seen in the upper portion of the walls of the nave and eastern part of
the choir and presbytery, the inserted Decorated windows, the eastern
chapel of the south transept, the alterations in the corresponding
chapel of the north transept, the south porch, the second stage of the
tower, and the famous rood-screen. During the fifteenth century and
the latter years of the fourteenth century, new roofs were added, the
south window in the south transept constructed, heavy buttresses
placed against the north wall of the nave, which had shown signs of
giving way, and during the early years of the sixteenth century the
tower was raised, and a stone vault erected over the Lady Chapel and
the chapels behind the high altar.
During the Civil War sad havoc was wrought; lead was torn from the
roof, and this caused the eastern chapels and the Lady Chapel to fall
into decay. The once noble Cathedral, in consequence of the treatment
which it received during the strife of King and Parliament, and of
subsequent neglect, was shorn of its ancient glory, and ruin and
desolation reigned. At the beginning of the nineteenth century some
efforts were made to improve this state of things, and the west front
was rebuilt in a debased and miserable style, and during the course of
the century sundry alterations were made, and at length, in 1862, Sir
G. Scott commenced a thorough restoration. Vast sums have been
expended upon the fabric of the Cathedral, and though the eastern
chapels remain in their ruined state, the rest of the building has
been repaired and renewed, and preserved from destruction. "It
remains," wrote Sir G. Scott, "a wonderfully interesting and valuable
landmark in architectural history, taking in the extreme west a
position parallel to that held by Canterbury in the extreme east of
the island."
THE EXTERIOR
The _West Front_ is entirely modern, the work of Sir G. Scott, but it
is designed after the fashion of the ancient front which existed
before the hideous construction of the early eighteenth-century
architect. As we walk around the Cathedral we must remember that
nearly all the work is Transitional Norman, although its character is
much disguised by later alterations and the insertion of Decorated
windows. The _North Doorway_, with its curious ornamentation, is
Transitional Norman, but time and weather have destroyed much of its
beauty. The walls of the aisles were raised in the time of Bishop
Gower (1328-1347), who inserted Decorated windows. The massive flying
buttresses were added about 1500 A.D. On this side was the cloister
court of the College of St. Mary, the ruined walls of which appear on
the north. This college was founded by John of Gaunt in 1377 for the
maintenance of a master and seven priests. The _North Transept_ has
been much altered. During the recent restoration the low Perpendicular
roof has been removed, and one with a high pitch erected. The north
window was inserted by Butterfield in 1846 in place of one which had
been blocked up. A curious building is seen on the east side of this
transept, which has three storeys, and is higher than the roof of the
main building. It contains the Chapel of St. Thomas the Martyr, built
mainly by Sir Richard Symonds in 1329, and above it the old
chapter-house, and in the highest storey the treasury. The east end of
the church was extensively restored by Scott. The Perpendicular roof
was retained, but finding amongst the _débris_ the evidence of lancet
windows at the east end, Scott reproduced these with excellent effect.
The _Lady Chapel_, built by Bishop Martyn (1296-1328), is still in
ruins. The south transept has a Transitional Norman west wall, and the
rest was built about 1220, after the fall of the tower. Large
Perpendicular windows were inserted in the south wall. The old vestry
is on the east side. On the south side is the beautiful _Porch_, built
by Bishop Gower (1328-1347) in the Decorated style. There is a parvise
chamber above. The doorway is remarkable; the sculptures represent the
Root of Jesse, with Adam and Eve on the west side and the Patriarch
Jesse on the other; above it a representation of the Holy Trinity,
with censing angels.
The _Tower_ was erected originally by Bishop de Leia, and fell in
1220. It was then rebuilt. Bishop Gower added a second storey in the
Decorated style, and above this a Perpendicular storey was raised in
Perpendicular times. The wonder is that all this extra weight did not
cause the tower to collapse again. It certainly caused continual
anxiety, and produced bulges in the neighbouring walls. However, the
restoration of Sir G. Scott has secured safety and removed anxiety.
The Perpendicular parapet is curious and not very beautiful.
Only one gateway remains, though there were four in the great wall
which surrounded the precincts. The _Tower Gate_ is a fine structure,
flanked by two towers, one of which is octagonal and the other
semi-circular. The ruins of the _Bishop's Palace_, a magnificent
structure, should be visited. It was built by Bishop Gower, and must
have been one of the finest residences in the whole kingdom.
THE INTERIOR
The _Nave_ is the work of Peter de Leia (1176-1198), and is
Transitional Norman. The elaborate carving and the richness of the
ornamentation are remarkable, and the colour of the stone adds a
wonderful effect. St. David's has many peculiar features, and is
unlike any other church in the kingdom. The arches are round, the
triforium and clerestory are blended together under one arch. The
piers are round and octagonal, with attached shafts. It was evidently
intended to vault the nave, but this was abandoned. A Perpendicular
roof of intricate and unusual design was constructed about 1500. The
capitals afford an interesting study. The west end is modern, the work
of Scott. Traces of coloured decoration may be seen on some of the
piers of the nave; among the designs are figures of the Virgin, our
Lord, and some monarch. The font in the south aisle is, with the
exception of the shaft, of the same date as the nave. It is octagonal,
and is carved with an arcade of pointed arches. The aisles do not
possess any special features of interest. The architectural changes
which have taken place there have already been mentioned. In the north
aisle is the Transitional Norman doorway, and in the south the
Decorated door of Bishop Gower.
The _Rood-Screen_ is very remarkable, the work of Bishop Gower in the
Decorated style. It is very massive and elaborate, and contains
several tombs and monuments, has a groined roof, and is a very unusual
and noble structure. The organ, which is modern, stands above this
screen. The iron gates leading to the choir are also modern. Before
entering the choir we will visit the _Transepts_, which are entered
through Late Norman doorways from the nave. The western walls are Late
Norman, built by De Leia, the rest were erected after the fall of the
tower in 1220. In the _North Transept_ the large north window was
erected in 1846 in the Decorated style. This transept was dedicated to
St. Andrew. On the east side is the Chapel of St. Thomas the Martyr,
begun in 1220, refounded by Sir R. Symonds in 1329, and used for a
variety of purposes. We notice a fine Early English piscina in the
south wall. Above is the library and the old treasury. The _South
Transept_, formerly known as the "Chanter's Chapel," had altars
dedicated to the Holy Innocents and St. David, and was once used as a
parish church. The east side of this transept has passed through
several vicissitudes, and has now been restored to its original form.
The _Choir_ is entered through the gates of the rood-screen, and
occupies the space beneath the tower and half a bay beyond. The
presbytery occupies the rest of the space beyond the parclose screen
to the east wall behind the altar. All this is the work of Bishop de
Leia, or that of his immediate successors, who rebuilt the tower after
its fall in 1220. First, we examine the tower itself, and wonder at
the marvellous skill of our modern architects and masons who could
rebuild from their foundation two out of the four piers, each
sustaining a weight of 1150 tons. Rich ornamentation is observed on
the east and west arches, one of which is round, the rest pointed.
Scott raised the wooden ceiling, and greatly improved the appearance
of the interior of the tower. The _Stalls_ were erected at the end of
the fifteenth century, and are the work of Bishop Tully. There are a
number of curious _misereres_ with strange grotesques, amongst
others--three men in a boat with a fourth rowing, one of the
passengers being very sea-sick; a cowled fox offering a wafer to a
goose with a human head; a carpenter building a boat, etc. The fox is
doubtless a satire on the monks, and possibly also the sea-sick
passenger. The _Bishop's Throne_ is an elaborate structure erected by
Bishop Morgan (1496-1505), and is of great height. It is a blend of
the Perpendicular and Decorated styles; probably Bishop Morgan used
some older materials in its construction. The _Parclose Screen_,
separating the choir from the presbytery, is a peculiar feature of
this Cathedral. It is of Decorated design. Passing through it we enter
the _Presbytery_. At the east end above the altar are two rows of
lancets, the lower lights being blocked, and filled with rich mosaics.
The glass in the upper lights is modern, of good design and execution,
erected by the Rev. John Lucy in memory of his ancestor, Bishop Lucy
(1660-1677). The subjects of the mosaics are the Crucifixion, and
figures representing the Christian and Jewish Churches. The type of
our Lord upon the Cross, the brazen serpent, appears below the central
figure. Scenes from the life of St. David also are represented. The
roof of the presbytery dates from about 1500, and on the bosses and in
the panels are heraldic shields. The altar is modern. The floor is
paved with old tiles, and the five crosses cut on some of the slabs in
the sanctuary show that these stones were formerly altars. On the
north of the presbytery is the famous _Shrine of St. David_, to which
pilgrims flocked from all parts of Great Britain and Ireland. Kings
and queens, nobles and princes came to pay their devotions at this
shrine of the great Welsh saint, and bestowed many offerings on St.
David's Church. Only the base of the shrine remains, and above this
once stood the _feretrum_, which was doubtless covered with gold and
jewels. The base is of Late Early English design, and was probably
constructed in 1275 by Bishop Richard de Carew. The lowest part
consists of three pointed arches with quatrefoils in the spandrels.
The two inner quatrefoils communicate with lockers at the back, and
were evidently intended for offerings. The upper portion consists of
three arches with Early English capitals to the shafts, and under the
arches were paintings of SS. David, Patrick, and probably Denis, but
these have disappeared.
Another shrine is in the Cathedral, that of _St. Caradoc_, on the
south side of the north transept. He was a Welsh saint, who was
ordained and ministered in the Cathedral of St. David, and dying in
1124 was canonised by Innocent III. Here too are seen two
quatrefoil openings for the reception of offerings.
We need not linger in the choir aisles except to observe the
monuments, and will at once pass to the part of the east end behind
the altar. This part consists of Bishop Vaughan's Chantry on the east
of the presbytery, the ante-chapel, with two chapel aisles, and the
Lady Chapel. This part of the church awaits restoration, for which
funds are needed. With the exception of Vaughan's Chantry and the
ante-chapel, all the building is roofless, exposed to the storms and
rains of this exposed headland, and pitifully beseeches a new roof and
shelter. Several architectural puzzles are presented by this portion
of the Cathedral, which have not yet been entirely satisfactorily
solved. Examining first Vaughan's Chantry or Trinity Chapel, we find a
very beautiful example of Perpendicular work. The roof is a fine
example of fan-tracery, and the whole structure rivals King's College
Chapel, Cambridge, or Henry VII.'s Chapel at Westminster. Before the
construction of this chapel the space occupied by it was left waste,
and was described by Vaughan as _Vilissimus sive sordidissimus locus
in totâ ecclesiâ_. A curious recess of Late Norman work has been
discovered behind the high altar with beautifully-carved crosses.
Above the recess is the figure of an angel, and some relics were found
in the cill embedded in mortar, where they had doubtless been placed
for the purpose of preservation at the Reformation. Recent discovery
has revealed at the east end a beautifully-carved niche and two fine
windows. Here are preserved some interesting Celtic crosses. On the
south is the Chapel of King Edward the Conqueror, and on the north the
Chapel of St. Nicholas. The _Ante-Chapel_ has Early English arches
with a Perpendicular roof. The _Lady Chapel_ in its present form
belongs to the transition from Early English to Decorated. Bishop
Gower added the sedilia, founded a chantry here, and made sundry other
alterations of a Decorated character.
The Cathedral is rich in monuments. The most important are:--
Bishop Gower, south of rood-screen.
Bishop Morgan (1564), south of nave.
Edmund Tudor, Earl of Richmond, father of Henry VII. (1456),
presbytery.
Bishop Anselm le Gras (1247), presbytery.
Two tombs of Knights, on each side of presbytery.
A Priest (Decorated period), in presbytery.
Two ancient Celtic slabs, one of which records the name of Bishop
Abraham (1078), and is in memory of his two sons.
In the ruined eastern chapels are the monuments of Bishop Vaughan, Sir
J. Wogan (_temp._ Edward I.), Archdeacon Hoit (1319), an unknown
knight, Bishop Martyn, and the fine tomb of a priest under a
beautifully-carved canopy.
SCOTTISH CATHEDRALS
Although the Church of Scotland is Presbyterian, it was not until the
stirring events of the Revolution of 1688 that this form of church
government was adopted. From that day forward the Church of Scotland
knew no bishops, and hence the application of the term cathedral to a
church belonging to that communion is a misnomer. The Episcopal Church
of Scotland has its cathedrals, but these for the most part are
modern. But Scotland still possesses many of its ancient fanes, which
are usually preserved with much care and solicitude, and retain much
of the splendour of their Gothic architecture, and are rich with
historical associations and tradition.
GLASGOW CATHEDRAL