remain. St. Mary's Gate, on the west, is a fine thirteenth-century
structure; the Inner Gate, of fourteenth-century work, leading to
Miller's Green, the site of the old Abbey Mill and outhouses; the
south, or King Edward's Gate, built by Edward I., of which only
fragments remain; and the Westgate Street Gate. The Deanery, as we
have said, has many interesting features, and remains of the work of
eleventh, twelfth, thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. The Bishop's
Palace is modern, built on the site of the abbot's house, erected in
the early part of the fourteenth century. Previous to that period the
abbot lived at the present Deanery.
DIMENSIONS
Nave, length 174 ft.
Nave, width 34 ft.
Nave, height 68 ft.
Transepts, length 46 ft.
Transepts, width 34 ft.
Choir, length 140 ft.
Choir, width 33 ft.
Lady Chapel, length 90 ft.
Lady Chapel, width 25 ft.
Tower, height 225 ft.
Total length 407 ft.
Area 30,600 sq. ft.
PRINCIPAL BUILDING DATES
Norman (1089-1100)--Piers, arches, triforium of the nave,
walls and vault of north aisle and pilasters of south aisle,
walls of choir and presbytery, chapels and ambulatory,
north transept, west end of chapter-house and abbot's
cloister.
Early English (1242)--Vault of nave.
Decorated (1307-1329)--Windows and vault of south aisle,
south transept, windows of ambulatory and chapels.
Perpendicular (1337-1500)--Windows of nave and north
aisle, casing north transept, choir and presbytery, Lady
Chapel, cloisters, tower, west end, south porch, and east
end of chapter-house.
[Illustration PLAN OF GLOUCESTER CATHEDRAL]
HEREFORD CATHEDRAL
The story of the See of Hereford takes us back to very early times, to
the days of the British, and shows the connection and identity of the
Church of England of the twentieth century with that which existed
even prior to the landing of Augustine. The see was in existence in
the sixth century, and was subject to the Archbishop of Caerleon.
Legends tell us of Dubricius, who crowned King Arthur at Cirencester.
One Bishop of Hereford represented the old British bishops at the
famous conference with Augustine, when, by his want of tact and
haughty demeanour, the Roman missionary alienated the native British
Church. A very tragic event enhanced the glories of the see. King Offa
slew Ethelbert, King of the East Angles, who was a suitor for his
daughter's hand, and buried him at Hereford. On the night of the
funeral, "a column of light, brighter than the sun, arose towards
heaven," according to the monkish chronicler, and miracles were
wrought at the tomb of the martyred monarch. This distressed Offa, who
tried to expiate his crime by erecting a noble monument, founding the
monastery at St. Alban's, and devoting costly gifts to the church of
Hereford. One Mildred, Offa's viceroy, built "an admirable stone
church," dedicated to the martyr Ethelbert. This was rebuilt by Bishop
Ethelstan in 1012. Then followed sad times when the Welsh tribes
invaded the land and destroyed the city and church by fire. When the
Normans came Bishop de Losinga (1079-1095) began to rebuild the ruined
church, and the work was continued by his successor, Raynhelm
(1107-1115). During the troubles of Stephen's reign Hereford suffered
much. The Cathedral was deserted and desecrated, and Bishop Robert de
Bethune, a worthy prelate, was forced to seek safety in flight.
Stephen entered the Castle of Hereford with great pomp, and occupied
during service the episcopal chair, which still remains. On his return
he cleansed and repaired the building. Then we see Gilbert Foliot,
Bishop of Hereford, the stern opponent of Becket, who preached the
sermon at Canterbury, when Henry II. did penance for the murder of
the archbishop. Bishop William de Vere (1189-1199) is said to have
built much, removed the apsidal terminations at the east end, and made
other alterations. His work was continued by the erection of the Early
English Lady Chapel. Probably he built the Palace. Bishop Giles de
Bruce (1200-1215) took part with the barons against King John, and was
a very warlike prelate, who allied himself with Prince Llewellyn, and
destroyed the castle of Earl Mortimer, an adherent of the king. He was
driven from his see, but afterwards made peace with John, and died at
Gloucester when he was returning to his see. Writers commonly assign
to him the building of the tower, on the ground that his effigy has a
model of the church in its hand. But this effigy was erected long
after his death, and cannot be taken as any evidence of the truth of
the statement. The profusion of ball-flower ornament certainly points
out that the tower belongs to the fourteenth and not to the thirteenth
century.
Peter d'Acquablanca in Savoy (1240-1268) was one of the foreign
favourites of Henry III., who fought in the Crusades. He was a
simoniacal prelate who tried to gain the See of Bordeaux, and was much
ridiculed when, after paying the money, the Archbishop of Bordeaux was
found to be alive. He was expelled from England, but returned, and
then went off to Ireland to collect tithes. Unfortunately King Henry
visited Hereford during his absence, and found that no clergy were
there, and the church in ruin and decay. He therefore wrote a
strongly-worded remonstrance to the absent bishop, who returned in
time to be seized by Simon de Montfort and put into prison, while his
hoards of wealth were divided amongst his captors. He died soon after
this. His tomb remains, but his heart is buried in Savoy, his native
land. He is said to have rebuilt the north transept.
Thomas de Cantilupe (1275-1282) was a noted bishop, who attained to
the honour of canonisation, and was, moreover, Chancellor of England.
He was by no means a meek-spirited saint, excommunicated an earl for
capturing his game, and made another lord walk barefoot to the altar
of the Cathedral, after chastising him for interfering with his
tenants. On his death in Italy his flesh was buried at Florence, his
heart at Ashridge, Bucks, and his bones at Hereford. Various miracles
were said to have been wrought at his tomb. His successor Swinfield
(1283-1317), built, or began, the eastern transept, the clerestory of
the choir, the central tower above the roof, and probably the nave
aisles. Adam de Orleton (1316-1327) espoused the cause of the queen
against Edward II., and involved Hereford in the troubles of that
disastrous time. He is said to have instigated the murder of the king;
at any rate he captured the fugitive monarch, and Hugh Despenser, the
king's favourite, was brought here and hanged. He obtained from the
Pope a grant of the tithes of two Berkshire parishes, Shinfield and
Swallowfield, for the repair of his Cathedral. The fifteenth century
saw several additions to the fabric, the cloisters in 1418-1448, the
great west window by W. Lochard, the precentor, some chantry chapels
which we shall notice later, and the enlargement of the north porch.
At the Reformation an ardent reformer, Edward Fox, was appointed
bishop, and Hereford, like other cathedrals, was despoiled of its
valuables and treasures. Fox's successor, Skip, was a liturgical
scholar, and helped in compiling our liturgies. Another learned
prelate was Francis Godwin (1617-1633), the author of the Lives of
English Bishops (_de Præsulibus Anglicæ_). At the Civil War period
Hereford suffered the usual misfortunes. Both bishop and people
espoused the cause of the king. The city was taken and retaken without
much damage being done, until Lord Leven with the Scottish army
besieged it in 1645, when the church suffered considerably; and when,
by the treachery of the governor, Colonel Birch, the city was again
taken, it was plundered and the Cathedral ransacked. Brasses were torn
up, monuments defaced, old windows broken, the library pillaged, and
when the dean courageously preached to the riotous soldiers on their
sacrilege, they levelled their muskets at him, and were scarcely
restrained from firing.
Injudicious "restorers" have worked their wicked will on the fabric;
amongst these was Bishop Bisse (1713-1721) who spent much money,
erected several monstrosities, which have happily been removed, and
destroyed the half-ruined chapter-house in order to restore the
Palace. In 1786 the western tower fell, and carried with it the west
front. Then Wyatt, of evil memory, was let loose on the Cathedral. He
made a new west front, shortened the nave, and took down the Norman
work in triforium and clerestory, substituting his own designing.
Plaster was used unsparingly. The old spire was removed, the roofs
lowered, and much other vandalism perpetrated. From 1837 to 1863
continued restoration took place, and in spite of the havoc which has
been wrought the church retains much of its ancient and interesting
character, and is well worthy of accurate study.
[Illustration HEREFORD CATHEDRAL FROM THE WYE]
THE EXTERIOR
A good view is obtained from the close on the south side. On the banks
of the Wye is the Palace and College of Vicars Choral; on the east was
the old castle, one of the strongest on the Welsh marches. The _West
Front_ is an erection of Wyatt's, and need not be noticed. Formerly
there was a great tower here, which fell in 1786 and destroyed the old
west front. The _Central Tower_ is very fine. The abundance of
ball-flower ornament proclaims its Decorated style. The date is about
1300. It has two stages. The pinnacles are modern. As we have said, a
wooden spire which once capped it has been removed. On the west side
there is a noble _Porch_ of Perpendicular style, built by Bishop Booth
in 1530. There is a parvise in the second storey with Perpendicular
windows. This porch joins on to an inner one of the Decorated period.
Octagonal turrets containing staircases stand at the angles. The
iron-work of the doors is excellent modern work. The walls and windows
of the aisles are Late Decorated, about 1360. The clerestory is
Wyatt's construction, who destroyed the original Norman work. The
_North Transept_ is worthy of attention. The buttresses are very
massive. It was built about 1285 for the reception of the shrine of
Bishop Cantilupe. The windows are very lofty, of three lights under
triangular-headed arches. The window on the north is similar, but
double. On the east side there is an aisle, with triforium windows of
three lancets, and above the clerestory windows are triangular.
The Lady Chapel is fine Early English work, and belongs to the first
half of the thirteenth century. We notice especially the tall and
graceful lancets and elegant arcades of interesting arches.
The east end was rebuilt in 1850. On the south is the Audley Chapel.
It is difficult to approach the south side, as walls and gardens
prevent easy access. The _Vicar's Cloister_, connecting the Cathedral
with the College of the Vicars Choral (incorporated in 1396), is
Perpendicular work. The oak beams are finely carved. The quadrangle of
the college is well worthy of notice. The _Bishop's Cloister_ is on
the south of the nave. Two walks remain, and the west walk is
partially restored and contains the library. Their style is
Perpendicular. The chapter-house was pulled down by Bishop Bisse; only
the double doorway remains. We notice the grotesque heads over the
windows, the richly-groined roof, and the Lady's Arbour, a small room
in the tower at the south-east angle, which may possibly have
obtained its name from the Virgin, our Lady. The Chapels of SS.
Katherine and Mary Magdalene, of Norman construction, formerly stood
against south wall, and some remains are evident.
THE INTERIOR
We enter the nave by the north porch, and proceeding to the west end
we notice the grand Norman piers and arches. Wyatt's hand was heavily
laid upon this structure, and the triforium, clerestory and vault are
all his handiwork. Moreover, he took away one bay entirely. The view
eastward is very impressive. The arches are adorned with the billet
and other Norman mouldings, and are remarkable for their richness. The
_Font_ is curious and of Late Norman design. It has figures of the
Apostles, and at the base projecting lions. The aisles are Late
Decorated, except the lower part of the walls, which is original
Norman. The chief monuments in the nave and aisle are, on the
south:--Sir Richard Pembridge (1375), who fought at Poictiers. The
effigy is a good study of the armour of the period. The right leg is a
restoration. Two unknown figures of ecclesiastics. On the
north--Bishop Booth (1535), the builder of the porch; a fine tomb,
protected by original iron-work.
The _Screen_ is a magnificent work, designed by Sir G. Scott. The
lectern is modern.
The _Central Tower_ has passed through many vicissitudes. The original
Norman piers being unable to support the heavy Early English shaft,
they were cased with new stone-work, and the Norman arches were
blocked up. In Dean Mereweather's time extensive restoration was found
necessary. All the parts above the arches is fourteenth-century work.
The vaulting has been removed, and the tower is now open to the belfry
floor.
The _North Transept_ is particularly fine and remarkable, and is Late
Early English or Early Decorated (1282-1287). It was built for the
shrine of Bishop Cantilupe. The arches are sharply-pointed and
unusual. On the west are two windows of two narrow lights under
sharply-pointed arches, the tracery of the heads being in the form of
three circles enclosing trefoils. On the north is a double window of
the same character. On the east is an aisle with clerestory and
triforium. Dog-tooth ornament appears in the mouldings. The arches of
the triforium are very beautiful, and the diaper of leaf-ornament in
the spandrels is effective. The windows above are octofoils.
[Illustration The Cantilupe Shrine]
This aisle contains the remains of the Cantilupe shrine, which was a
source of much revenue to the church, derived from the pilgrims who
flocked hither. The date of the tomb is 1287, and the details are
worthy of study. It is made of Purbeck marble. The lower part has
fifteen figures of Knights Templar, of which order the bishop was
Provincial Grand Master. The details of the armour are very exact.
Curious monsters appear at the feet of the knights. The foliage is
excellent Early Decorated, retaining some of Early English features.
Other monuments are Bishop Westfayling (1602), John Philips, author of
_The Splendid Shilling_ (1708), Bishop Charlton (1329), Bishop Field
(1639), Dean D'Acquablanca (1320), and brasses to Dean Frowcester
(1529) and Richard Delamare and his wife (1435). Near at hand is the
beautiful monument of Bishop D'Acquablanca (1240-1268), the finest in
the Cathedral. (Concerning the unenviable repute of this bishop, _see_
the history of the see). The tomb was originally elaborately coloured.
_The South Transept_ has much Norman work. The east wall is entirely
Norman, and has five ranges of arcades. Perpendicular windows have
been inserted in south and west walls, and the lierne vaulting belongs
to the same period. Bishop Trevenant (1389-1404) is said to have been
responsible for this later work.
The monuments in this transept are:--Sir Alexander Denton and his wife
(1566), an altar tomb with alabaster effigies. The latter died with
her infant, who is represented as a "chrysome" child, i.e., one who
dies within a month of its baptism, and wears its white baptismal
robe. Bishop Trevenant, who was responsible for the Perpendicular
alterations, is buried here; his effigy has been much mutilated.
Masons' marks are observable, and the Norman fireplace is said to be
unique.
The _Choir_ is full of interest. The main arches and triforium are
Norman, the clerestory and vaulting Early English (_circa_ 1250). The
carving of the capitals exhibits foliage and grotesque heads, and the
lozenge ornament appears round the arches. The headings of the
pilasters between the piers are Early English. The clerestory windows
consist of one lofty pointed window and a small trefoiled one on each
side. The reredos was designed by Cottingham, the architect at the
restoration in 1850, and represents the Passion of Christ. A curious
effect is produced by the central pillar and arches in the retro-choir
appearing through the arch at the east of the choir, and presenting a
broad spandrel, on which are carved some modern figures of our Lord
and St. Ethelbert. The stalls are good Decorated work with rich
canopies and some curious misereres, with carvings representing a pair
of wrestlers with ropes round their necks, an irate cook throwing a
dish at a troublesome guest, etc. Some are modern. The _Throne_ is
also Decorated, and there is the remarkable old chair already
mentioned, on which Stephen is said to have sat on the occasion of his
visit here. The _Organ_ has some parts of the instrument presented by
Charles II. The monuments in the choir are those of--
Bishop Trilleck (1360), an excellent brass; Bishop Stanbery (1474),
whose chantry we shall see in the west choir aisle; Bishop Giles de
Bruce (1215), with model of church in his hand; Bishop Bennett (1617).
We notice the small figure of St. Ethelbert on a bracket on east pier
on south side, of fourteenth century.
In the _North Choir Aisle_ the wall has Decorated arched recesses,
which contain the effigies of Bishop Godfred de Clive (1120) (executed
in Perpendicular period); Bishop Hugh de Mapenore (1219); Bishop
Richard de Capella (1127). Bishop Stanbery's Chantry (1453-1474) is
entered from this aisle, and is Late Perpendicular. It is very richly
ornamented with tracery and panelling and shields and has a groined
roof. It is a good example of the over-elaborateness of Late
Perpendicular work.
The _North-East Transept_ is Early Decorated, the original apsidal
termination being altered in the latter part of the thirteenth
century. Traces of Norman work are still evident. There is a central
octagonal pier which supports the vaulting. There are monuments here
of Dean Dawes (1867); Bishop Godwin? (1633) (the tomb is certainly
earlier and cannot be his); and the altar tomb of Bishop Swinfield
(1316), though the effigy upon it is not his. The ball-flower moulding
is plentifully used. Proceeding onwards we come to the _Retro-Choir_
or ambulatory, which is Transitional Norman. The chevron and diamond
moulding on the ribs of the vaulting point to its Late Norman date.
There was evidently an ambulatory and Lady Chapel in Norman times, and
the windows on each side of the vestibule show that formerly these
walls were outside walls, and the windows were glazed. Here is a
monument of Dean Beaurieu (1462), which is of some interest on account
of the accurate carving of the dress, and the rebus _boar_ and _rue_
leaves; and there are some late brasses.
The _Lady Chapel_ is remarkably fine, being very rich Early English.
Its story is difficult to read, as the architect Cottingham redressed
the old stone-work and made complications in 1840-1850. He rebuilt the
east gable. Five narrow lancets form the east window, and above are
five quatrefoil openings. The glass was erected to the memory of Dean
Mereweather, to whom the Cathedral owes so much. The subject is the
life of the Virgin. The aumbrey and piscina are reproductions. On the
north there is an interesting but somewhat conglomerate tomb. The
effigy is supposed to be Humphrey de Bohun, Earl of Hereford, in the
reign of Edward III., but the canopy is Perpendicular, and the figures
in the arches were discovered elsewhere and placed here, except the
two mutilated central ones, our Lord and the Virgin. The others are
SS. John Baptist, Cantilupe and Thomas of Canterbury. The Countess of
Hereford, Johanna de Bohun (1327), lies here, a great benefactress,
whose effigy and tomb are worthy of study. On the south is the _Audley
Chantry_, erected by Bishop Audley (1492-1502), who constructed
another chantry at Salisbury, whither he was translated, and where he
was buried. It has two storeys, and a curious and interesting screen
separates it from the Lady Chapel. There are traces of considerable
colour decoration. The chapel has five sides, with two windows in the
lower and five in the upper storey. The central boss of the vaulting
in the upper chamber or oratory has a figure of the Virgin crowned.
The window west of this chapel has some good fourteenth-century glass.
Beneath the choir is the crypt, of Early English date, and is the only
example of a crypt constructed later than the end of the eleventh
century. It is called "Golgotha," on account of its being used as a
charnel-house.
The _South-East Transept_ is similar to its opposite. It has monuments
of Bishop Charlton (1369); Bishop Coke (1646); Bishop Ironside, who
died in London, 1701, and was buried in a city church, which was
destroyed in 1863, and the body brought here. This was the bishop who,
as Vice-Chancellor of Oxford, resisted the action of James II. in
regard to the expulsion of the Fellows of Magdalen College.
In the _South Choir Aisle_ are four Perpendicular tombs under
Decorated arched recesses, supposed to represent Bishop William de
Vere (1199); Bishop Hugh Foliot (d. 1234); Bishop Robert de Betun
(1148); and Bishop Robert de Melun (1167). There is a brass of Dean
Frowsetown (1529), an effigy of Bishop Mayew (1516), who conducted
Catherine of Arragon to England from Spain; and an effigy
of Bishop de Losinga (1096), erected in Perpendicular period. The
vestries are of Norman construction; the vaulting is the only example
of Norman vaulting in the Cathedral. Here in this south choir aisle is
preserved the famous _Map of the World_, as known in 1300. It was
designed by Richard de Haldingham, Prebendary of Hereford. This was
generally supposed to be the most ancient of its size in the world;
but another map has been discovered at Ebstorp, near Hanover, which is
larger, more highly coloured, and about the same age. The library of
Corpus Christi College, Cambridge, has an earlier map of Henry of
Mainz, and there is a small Psalter map in the British Museum. The
world is shown to be round; at the top is Paradise, with its rivers
and trees, Eve's transgression, etc. Above is the last Judgment with
the Virgin interceding for mankind. Jerusalem is in the centre. Rome
proclaims itself the head of the world, and Troy the most warlike
city. The British Isles have much space, and most of the cathedrals
are mentioned. Monstrous animals, birds and fish abound. The monkey
appears to live in Norway, the scorpion on the Rhine. There is very
much that is strange and curious to be seen in this wonderful map.
_The Library_ has a splendid collection of chained books. The building
is modern, having been opened in 1897, and built on the site of the
old west cloister. There is an ancient copy of the Gospels at least
1000 years old, written in Anglo-Saxon characters, a beautiful
twelfth-century MS., a copy of the "Hereford Use" of thirteenth
century, Wycliffe's Bible (1420), "Bangor Use" (1400), with a curious
charm for toothache inserted in the book, _Decreta Gratiani_, of
twelfth century. There are many _Incunabula_, Nicholas de Lyra's Bible
and Commentary (1485), _Polychronycon_, by R. Higden, with additions
by Caxton (1495); Caxton's _Golden Legend_, a very fine copy.
Here is an ancient _Reliquary_, with representation of the martyrdom
of St. Thomas of Canterbury, a pre-Reformation chalice and paten,
taken from the coffin of Bishop Swinfield (1316), and some episcopal
rings. This collection of chained books is the finest in England.
DIMENSIONS
Total length (exterior) 342 ft.
Length of nave to screen 158 ft.
Breadth of nave 31 ft.
Breadth of nave and aisles 73 ft.
Height of nave 64 ft.
Height of lantern 96 ft.
Height of tower with pinnacles 165 ft.
Length of choir to reredos 75 ft.
Length of Lady Chapel and retro-choir 93 ft.
Width of central transepts 146 ft.
Width of eastern transepts 110 ft.
PRINCIPAL BUILDING DATES