inland, somewhat over a mile south of Saint Johnstown and seven miles
from the City of Londonderry.
Only the keep now remains, but during the last century the walls of
the courtyard which lay between the Foyle and the fortress were still
standing, and over the arch of the gateway was a small stone engraved
with the initials “I.S.E.S.T.” and the date 1619. This has, however,
now disappeared. Another inscribed stone bears the following: “The
Hon. Elizabeth Hamilton, daughter of John Lord Culpeper, and widow
of Colonel James Hamilton (who lost his life at sea in Spain, in the
service of his king and country), purchased this manor, and annexed
it to the opposite estate of the family, which paternal estate itself
has improved by her prudent management to nearly the yearly income
of the dower she received thereout. She has also settled her younger
son, William Hamilton, Esq., in an estate acquired in England, of
nearly equal value in the purchase to this, and given every one of her
numerous offspring, descended from both branches, some considerable
mark of her parental care. Her eldest son, James, Earl of Abercorn, and
Viscount Strabane, hath caused this inscription to be placed here for
the information of her posterity, Anno, 1704.”
There are two incidents in the castle’s history which are of particular
interest. In the sixteenth century it was the chief residence of the
beautiful “Ineen Dubh,” daughter of Macdonnell, Lord of the Isles, and
mother of the famous Red Hugh O’Donnell, Chief of Tyrconnell.
It was said of her that she was “excelling in all the qualities that
become a woman, yet possessing the heart of a hero, and the soul of a
soldier.”
The State Paper recording her possession is as follows: “From
Cul-Mac-Tryan runs a bogg three myles in length to the side of
Lough Foyle--in the midst of the bog is a standing loughe called
Bunaber--here at Bunaber dwells O’Donnell’s mother (Ineen Dubh
M’Donnell). Three miles above Cargan stands a fort called McGevyvelin
(Mongivlin) upon the river of Lough Foyle--O’Donnell’s mother’s chief
house.”
The fortress is mentioned in 1619 in Captain Pynnar’s Survey of the
Escheated Counties of Ulster in the following manner: “Sir John Stewart
hath 3,000 acres called Cashell Hetin and Littergull. Upon this
proportion there is built, at Magevlin, a very strong castle, with a
flanker at each corner.”
James II. was the guest of Archdeacon Hamilton at Mongevlin during
the siege of Derry. From there he sent proposals of surrender to the
garrison by his host, which were rejected.
A sad incident occurred in connection with the castle last century. A
servant lad being employed by the owner of the time was so terrified by
the ghost stories he heard in connection with the building that he left
his situation and went home. His friends persuaded him to return, but
the matter so preyed upon his mind that he shortly after hanged himself.
AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.
“The Donegal Highlands.”
J. A. H., “Mongevlin Castle,” in _Dublin Penny Journal_.
_MONKSTOWN CASTLE, COUNTY CORK_
Situated at the western extremity of Cork Harbour, in the Barony of
Kerricurrihy, is the now ruined castle of Monkstown. The name is
derived from the Monastery Legan, belonging to the Benedictine Monks,
which was formerly established here, it being a cell of Bath Abbey.
The castle consists of a quadrangular building, flanked by four square
towers, having machicolated defences projecting from their angles. The
windows are in excellent preservation, being of square Tudor style,
divided by strong stone mullions, with horizontal weather cornices. The
moulding of the door displays excellent workmanship.
The estate belonged to the Archdeacons, who changed their name to
MacOdo, or Cody.
The castle was erected in 1636 by Anastasia Archdeacon, _nee_ Gould,
who intended it as a pleasant surprise for her husband, who was a naval
officer, and away on a voyage at the time.
Tradition says that it only cost the thrifty lady a groat. At first
she found that the builders objected to go to so out-of-the-way a
situation, as provisions were difficult to procure. Nothing daunted by
such an excuse the lady offered to supply the workmen with provisions
at the ordinary retail rate. This she did, but as she purchased her
goods at wholesale prices she found when she came to balance her
accounts that she was only 4d. out of pocket.
The castle was erected in a twelvemonth and a day, and the date 1636
appears on one of the mantelpieces.
Smith states that the fortress was originally styled Castle Mahon or
O’Mahony’s Castle, and in an ancient MS. document (probably now in the
possession of Captain Shaw, late of the London Fire Brigade) it is
described as being “remade” at the above date, so that it may occupy
the site of an older stronghold.
The following interesting extracts are taken from the manuscript
alluded to, which has been preserved in the Shaw family, they having at
one time leased the castle: “A.D. 1636, Monkstown Castle and court were
remade. Reader, you are to observe that it was not John Archdeacon, but
his wife, Anastatia Gould, who built the four castles of Monkstown, and
the court, in his absence, as he was from home. On his return he did
not like the building, and said that a building near a harbour was a
building of sedition, which, alas! turned out so.”
“A.D. 1660.--Archdeacon died, as when Cromwell came to Ireland he was
deprived of his castle, lands, &c., but not his life, which they did
not covet.”
In 1612 the wardship of the son of the late John Archdeacon, of
Monkstown, was given to Sir John Jephson Knt., and it was this ward’s
wife who afterwards built the castle.
He died in 1660, and both he and his wife are buried in the disused
graveyard of Teampul Oen Bryn, west of the castle. Upon his tomb
appears a long Latin inscription which, among other things, states
that--“Here lies the body of that most noble man, John Archdeacon.”
Colonel Hunks, one of the three deputed to execute the death warrant
of Charles I., was granted the lands of Monkstown by the Commonwealth
before the demise of John Archdeacon, who lost his estate on account of
loyalty to the Stewarts. Hunks sold it to Primate Boyle, brother of the
Earl of Cork, for £400.
But it evidently returned to the Archdeacon family upon the
Restoration, for it was again confiscated in 1688 on account of the
family’s loyalty to King James.
It then passed again into the hands of the Boyles, and through two
granddaughters of the Primate it descended to the present owners, the
Lords De Vesci and Longford.
In 1700 Dive Downes writes: “Mr. O’Callaghan, a Protestant, lives in
Monkstown, in a good square castle with flankers.”
Later in this century it was rented by the Government as a barrack.
Lord De Vesci leased the castle to Bernard Shaw in 1861.
AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.
Smith, “County and City of Cork.”
Gibson, “History of Cork.”
J. Windele, “Historical Notices of City of Cork,” &c.
Proceedings of Royal Society of Antiquaries.
Parliamentary Gazetteer.
_PORTUMNA CASTLE_
There have been three consecutive castles at Portumna, which is
situated in the Barony of Longford, Co. Galway. The town stands at the
head of Lough Derg, about eleven miles west of Birr. The name signifies
“the bank of the oak.”
The territory formerly belonged to the O’Maddens, and was included in
the grant to De Burgo 1226.
Soon after this the first castle was erected close to the River
Shannon. The ruins were removed some years ago, but its position can
still be traced.
The second fortress, which was an imposing castellated building of the
Tudor period, was burnt in 1826. The chief apartments were the great
hall, handsome state drawing-room, and library--a beautiful long room
in the upper storey. They were all completely destroyed, only the walls
being left.
Some of the out-offices were fitted up as a residence for the Dowager
Countess of Clanricard shortly afterwards.
Since then the Earl of Clanricard has erected a magnificent modern
residence in the demesne, but on a different site.
The manor passed, by the marriage of Elizabeth, daughter of William de
Burgo, Earl of Ulster, to Lionel, Duke of Clarence, through whom it
passed to the Mortimers, and later to the Earls of Clanricard.
In 1582 it was held by Ulick Burke, Earl of Clanricard, to whom
Portumna and the earldom were confirmed, as his brother John disputed
his right.
In 1608 it was granted to the Earl, with other houses, to be held by
knight’s service _in capite_.
The Earl of Strafford held a council in the castle in 1634 to establish
the King’s title in Connaught. The jury, however, negatived the matter,
whereupon the Earl arrested them and the sheriff, and sent them
prisoners to Dublin.
In 1641, Ulic, 5th Earl of Clanricard, was at Portumna upon the
breaking out of hostilities. He fortified the castle and proceeded to
Galway, of which city he was governor. He used every effort to maintain
peace, and in 1650 was appointed Lord Deputy in place of Ormond. At
this time he made Portumna his chief place of residence.
In 1659 General Ludlow laid siege to the fortress.
In the struggle between James and William it was garrisoned for James,
but surrendered to Brigadier-General Eppinger, who, with one thousand
two hundred horse and dragoons, arrived to reduce it.
AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.
Hardiman, “History of Galway.”
State Papers.
Lewis, “Topographical Dictionary of Ireland.”
Parliamentary Gazetteer.
Carew MSS.
MS. Ordnance Survey.
_ROSCOMMON CASTLE_
In the Barony of South Ballintobber, County Roscommon, seventy-five
miles west-by-north of Dublin, stands the now ruined fortress of
Roscommon. Joyce says the name signifies “Coman’s wood,” from St.
Comas, who founded a monastery there about the year 746, but O’Donovan
traces its derivation from “crooked stick.”
The plan of the castle consists of a quadrangular space enclosed by
curtain walls flanked at the angles by towers rounded on the outside.
The whole measures about 223 feet in length and 173 in breadth. On the
east side the entrance, under a pointed arch, was also protected by
two towers, which were connected by a rectangular building inside that
probably contained the state rooms.
The lower storeys of the towers were vaulted, although some of them are
now broken. The upper floors have larger windows, and also the remains
of fireplaces. Most of the windows contain four lights, but some have
Elizabethan mullions.
The north-west tower has a winding stair, which leads to the top of
the curtain wall. On the western side of the stronghold is a small
rectangular tower, which contained a little entrance.
There is now no trace of the moat, but a few remains of earth outworks
are visible.
On the east is a long enclosure surrounded by walls and flanked by
bastions, which is known as the orchard, although at present it
contains no trees.
The north and south walls of the castle, which had been broken down,
have been again raised for farming purposes. The inside of the walls
exhibit traces of blasting. The castle was built of blue limestone, and
much of the stone has been used elsewhere.
Weld considers it likely that the fortress was built from an English
plan, and remarks on the apparent absence of patching, it all seeming
to date from the same period.
Robert d’Ufford, Lord Justice of Ireland, began to erect the castle
in 1268, while Hugh, King of Connaught, was too ill to prevent such
encroachment on his territory. Some authorities state a fortress
existed here prior to this time. During 1270-72 there are numerous
accounts of payments for building and fortifying the stronghold.
In 1275-76 is an entry of payment to Brother Maurice, Bishop of Elphin,
for the site that had been used, and which appears to have been Church
property.
The castle is said to have been razed by O’Conor in 1272, but the
word “broken” used in the Book of Howth seems to be nearer the truth,
as four years later the Irish again seized it by scaling ladders and
overthrew the English garrison.
In Weld’s Statistical Survey he gives an amusing account of the
contradictions which obscure the early history of the stronghold, and
from which it appears impossible to gather the true facts at this
distant period.
In 1277 Sir Robert d’Ufford was again Lord Juctice, and with Thomas
de Clare, Maurice Fitz-Maurice and all their forces was hemmed in by
the Irish in the Slievebawn Mountains. They were only released on the
condition that Roscommon Castle was surrendered to the O’Conors.
It is also chronicled that Hugh O’Conor destroyed it in this year and
that it was rebuilt by Maurice Fitz-Maurice.
At any rate it seems again to have been in English possession in
1282-83, as there are entries regarding payment for its fortifications,
and a grant to the Prior and Convent of St. Coman of a right to water
their animals for ever at the lake under the castle. This sheet of
water, which was called Loch-na-nean, or “the lake of birds,” has now
entirely disappeared.
The names of numerous constables of the castle are mentioned in the
State Documents.
In 1290 the castle was garrisoned by Welshmen, and the townspeople
were in great distress because of the constables and bailiffs preying
upon them. The King issued an order that nothing must be taken without
consent and payment.
There was a long trial in 1292 of William de Prene, a carpenter in
charge of works at Roscommon Castle, who was accused of various frauds
in connection with his contract.
A very interesting account of repairs is recorded in 1304 which gives
a fair idea of the extent of the fortress. An artilleryman was paid
for repairing war engines, and the well was enclosed by a wall 3 feet
thick. It was 5 feet across and 32 feet deep, with a wooden cover.
Three drawbridges and two portcullisses are also mentioned. The postern
was closed with masonry 7 feet thick. The step of the hall repaired,
and the tower near it vaulted with two arches. Also St. Bridget’s well
was drained into the lake.
Somewhere about this time Felim O’Conor is said to have laid low the
castle, while in 1341 his son Hugh was taken prisoner by the King of
Connaught and imprisoned in the stronghold, but was released for a
ransom the following year.
Roderic O’Conor occupied the castle in 1375.
While in possession of the O’Conors it was a constant source of dispute
between O’Conor Don and O’Conor Roe. In 1409, being in the former’s
possession, it was besieged by the latter, but the garrison was
relieved by Brian O’Conor Sligo, who managed to get provisions into the
fortress.
Rory O’Conor died there in 1453. Tadhg O’Conor was treacherously killed
by his own people in 1476, and they took the castle of Roscommon, but
did not keep it long.
In 1499 the Earl of Kildare led his forces into Connaught, dislodged
O’Conor Roe and installed O’Conor Don. In 1512 the Earl of Kildare
again took the fortress, and this time he garrisoned it with his
own warders. It, however, immediately reverted to the O’Conors, and
remained with them until 1566, when it was taken for Queen Elizabeth.
It had been granted to M’William Bourke in 1544, but as he would have
had to drive out the occupiers, it is not to be wondered at that he
never took possession.
It was restored by the O’Conor Don, and Sir Thomas L’Estrange made
constable in 1569. The O’Conor Roe, having a spite against the
constable, attacked and burned the castle in 1573, and L’Estrange
claimed compensation to the amount of £1,000.
Sir Henry Sydney lodged a night in the castle in 1576, and complained
of having no cheer. The O’Conor Don visited him at this time.
Sir Nicholas Maltbie, to whom the castle was leased in 1577, asked to
be made Seneschal of Roscommon in 1580 as compensation for rebuilding
the fortress.
Captain Brabazon, Governor of Connaught, summoned a meeting of the
chiefs in the castle in 1582. It was held in the “Tower of the Narrow
Passages,” and the joistings giving way the whole meeting, including
the Governor, was precipitated to the bottom. Chief O’Flanagan died
from the fall.
After this the English constable was murdered, and Sir Henry Sydney
left a garrison in the castle.
Sir Nicholas Malbie died in 1584, and the castle remained in his
family’s possession for some years afterwards. In 1609 Lady Sydley,
widow of Henry Malby, Esq., asked allowance for the repairs of the
castles of Roscommon and Longford, both of which she rented from the
Crown. Roscommon had been ruined by various garrisons which had been
placed there by Sir John Norris and others.
One of the charges against the northern Earls was their intention to
seize Roscommon Castle amongst others.
The garrison made a brave defence against the Irish in 1642. The castle
was chiefly defended by Scotch warders. It is quaintly noted that at
the beginning of these “commotions” it had belonged to Lord Grandesson.
Three years later General Preston arrived and laid siege to it, opening
fire on both town and castle.
On the ninth day of the siege the garrison offered to make honourable
terms, which were accepted. The same day the besieging party had a
sharp encounter with a relieving force, who were, however, defeated,
and the castle surrendered. Captain Leicester was left in command.
It remained in the possession of the Irish forces until 1652, when
it was delivered on articles to Commissary-General Reynolds, of the
Parliamentary troops, by Captain Daly.
It is probable that it was demolished at this time. Tradition states
it was burned by fugitive Irish after the battle of Aughrim, and some
blackened joists are pointed out in corroboration.
It is now leased to a farmer by the Earl of Essex.
AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.
Weld, “Statistical Survey of County Roscommon.”
O’Conor Don, “O’Conors of Connaught.”
Meehan, “Irish Franciscan Monasteries.”
Joyce, “Irish Names of Places.”
State Documents.
State Papers.
Carew MSS., including Hook of Howth.
Parliamentary Gazetteer.
MS. Ordnance Survey.
Murphy, “The Castle of Roscommon,”
in _Journal of Royal Society
of Antiquaries, Ireland_.
[Illustration: ROSS CASTLE.]
_ROSS CASTLE_
“Its embers smouldering here and there,
Unfed, the civil war-flame dies;
But still defiant on the air,
O’er Rosse the green flag proudly flies.
p p p p p
“‘Till Birnam wood meets Dunsinane,’
Macbeth before no foe shall quail,
And Rosse may all assaults disdain,
’Till on Lough Lein strange ship shall sail.’”
A. B. ROWAN.
This castle is situated on what is now known as the Island of Ross, on
the east shore of Lough Lene, or the Lower Lake of Killarney, about a
mile and three-quarters south of the town.
The island has been artificially formed by cutting across the peninsula
or _ros_ on which the fortress is built and from which it takes its
name.
The channel, which is flooded by the waters of the lake, is crossed by
a bridge, although it is usually dry during the summer months.
This bridge was formerly protected by a guard house and gates, which
were closed every night, sentinels being posted at the entrance when
the castle was garrisoned in later times.
The present ruins consist of a keep, with the remains of the
surrounding bawn wall, which was flanked by semicircular towers at
the corners. A spiral stone stair leads to the top of the keep, with
doorways opening at the various floors.
The fortress is based on a limestone rock, and sustained on the land
side by a buttress of masonry.
The peninsula contains 158 acres, and copper mines were opened on it
in 1804, which were worked for four years, in which time £80,000 worth
of ore was extracted. Water getting in stopped further work. It was
clearly proved that the mines had been worked many centuries before,
and a number of stone implements, locally called “Danes’ hammers,” have
been found on the island.
The castle is supposed to have been built towards the close of the
fourteenth century by the family of O’Donoghue-Ross, who added the
appellation of their home to distinguish them from the family of
O’Donoghue-More.
A modern barrack capable of holding some two hundred men and officers
was erected against the keep, but when it ceased to be used Lord
Kenmare had the unsightly erection removed.
There is a legend regarding a great and wise Prince O’Donoghue who
possessed the secret of eternal youth, and under whose rule the land
prospered greatly. It is related how that during a splendid feast
at Ross Castle he rose up amongst the company and made a prophetic
oration, recounting accurately all that the future years would bring.
In the midst of speaking he walked over to a window (which is still
shown) and through it he passed out over the lake. Upon nearing the
centre he turned round and waved his hand in farewell to those behind,
and, the waters opening, he disappeared beneath them.
On May morning he is said to rise from his watery grave and ride over
the lake on a white steed, surrounded by beautiful women and youths.
His appearance is looked upon as a sign of a bountiful harvest.
It is also related how a young maiden imagining herself in love with
the phantom prince, cast herself into the lake on a May morning and was
drowned.
The O’Donoghues were succeeded at Ross by the M’Carthy Mores, through
whom the castle passed in 1588 to Sir Valentine Browne, ancestor to the
present house of Kenmare.
In 1651 Lord Muskerry was guardian to his nephew Sir Valentine Browne,
who was then a minor of about twelve years old. Hence it was that after
his defeat by the Parliamentary forces at Knockniclashy on the 5th of
July he retired with his army, numbering some one thousand five hundred
men, to Ross.
Ludlow, accompanied by Lord Broghill and Sir Hardress Waller, followed
with four thousand horse and two thousand foot.
Lord Muskerry was the last Royalist commander in arms, and his
submission was a matter of great moment.
Ludlow reports that the castle was only accessible by the causeway
which the besieged had fortified, being otherwise surrounded by water
and bog.
Finding that this made the reduction of the fortress a matter of
difficulty, and probably hearing of the tradition which stated Ross
Castle could not fall until a ship should sail on the lake, Ludlow
asked for a small fleet of boats to be prepared for transport at
Kinsale.
In the meantime he found that the besieged were obtaining supplies
through the thick woods surrounding the island. A force of two thousand
foot were, therefore, despatched to clear the thickets. Some of the
enemy were killed, some taken prisoners, and the rest saved themselves
“by their good footmanship.”
The rest of Ludlow’s forces were employed in fortifying the peninsular
so that a few men could keep the besieged in, while a large company was
despatched to Killorgan, on Castlemain Bay, to receive the boats and
supplies.
The preparation for the expedition was undertaken by the Rev. Dr.
Jones, and the command was given to Captain Chudleigh.
The vessels were sent in pieces, so that the workmen who accompanied
them could put them together in a few days. Two pinnaces carrying
ordnance, and capable of holding fifty (or Ludlow says a hundred and
fifty) men, were forwarded so as to be ready for use in two days. Also
five or six boats to hold fifty men each, and material to make more.
Great has been the controversy as to what route was followed in
conveying these vessels to Killarney. The River Laune, which drains the
lakes, is not navigable above the place where Ludlow’s force was to
receive the goods.
Tradition asserts that they were conveyed by the mountain road,
and in Ware’s Annals it is recorded that a ship was “carried over
the mountains.” On the other hand, Smith distinctly says they were
“brought up by the River Lane, by strength of men’s hands.” He also
relates how a recent sexton of Swords, called Hopkins (who had died at
the age of 115), had been one of those who “assisted in drawing the
above-mentioned vessel into the lake.” It is, therefore, likely that
Smith’s informant on the matter had received the correct impression
from an eye witness.
On Captain Chudleigh’s tomb at St. Multon’s, Kinsale, the fact is
recorded of his having constructed a ship to sail on land for the
reduction of Ross.
Some naval men are said to have drawn a vessel up the Laune in later
years.