by three towers, which open into the main building at each storey.
A small oblong shaft in the south-east angle of the keep runs from
the upper to the lower rooms. A passage in the main north wall is now
filled up.
The arches are of good workmanship and well preserved. In some of the
smaller apartments the marks of the wattle frames used in the building
are still easily traced on the ceilings, which show an early date of
construction.
In the chamber above the chapel appears the date 1588, as well as an
inscription stating the castle was erected by “D.B.” and “E.R.,” which
initials stand for David Barry and his wife, Eliza Roche. In another
room the date 1596 is inscribed.
The lands of the Barrys in Cork were confirmed to Philip Barry by King
John in 1206, and he later became possessed of Barry’s Court. The
present castle is, however, supposed to have been built during the
fourteenth century.
Tradition states it was erected upon the site of an older fortress
belonging to the Lyons or Lehanes of Castle Lyons, and that during the
excavations for the present foundations an inscribed stone was found
stating that “O’Lehan hoc fecit MCIII.,” but O’Donovan does not think
the story probable.
Geraldus Cambrensis is credited with having written part of his history
of the conquest in the earlier castle.
In 1490 the head of the Barry family was summoned to Parliament as Lord
Barry of Barry’s Court, and 1588 “James Barry of Barrescourt, Viscount
Barrymore, otherwise James, called Barrymore and Barryroo,” was in
possession.
The Commissioners who were appointed to govern Munster while the Earl
of Desmond was in prison, wrote, after arriving in Cork, in 1568: “Wood
Kerne, under Gerot Bracke, one of the Earl of Desmond’s near kinsmen,
intercepted our letters, certain Kerne lay in ambush for us, but Lord
Barrymore and John FitzEdmund, Dean of Cloyne, met us, and led us to
Barry’s Court.”
In 1580 Sir Walter Raleigh started from Cork to make complaint to Lord
Grey in Dublin that the Barrys and Condons were in league with the
rebels. He received orders to besiege Barry’s Court, but Lord Barry,
hearing of his intention, set the castle on fire, while he and his
friend, Fitzgerald, the seneschal of Imokilly, lay in wait for Sir
Walter at the ford near the old abbey of Midleton.
In the encounter so little expected, Raleigh only saved his life by his
somewhat foolhardy daring.
In the account of his doings in Ireland in 1583, Sir Henry Sydney
writes: “I was well entertained at the Viscount Barrie’s house, called
Barrie’s Court.”
During the Desmond rebellion of 1585, David Lord Barry, whose initials
are carved over the mantelpiece of the castle, was associated with the
disaffected. He afterwards submitted and sat on the Council of Munster
under Sir George Carew. He was present at the relief of Kinsale in
1602, and died at Barry’s Court in 1617. He was the second son of James
Barry, and his wife, Ellen Roche, was a daughter of Lord Fermoy.
Writing of him in 1606, Sir John Davys says: “From Youghall we went
to Cork, and dined by the way with the Viscount Barrie, who, at his
castle at Barriecourt, gave us civil and plentiful entertainment.”
Barryscourt was regranted by James I. to his grandson David, who
succeeded him.
The castle seems to have again been consumed by fire after James II.’s
visit to Ireland, as it is stated that the velvet bed hung with gold
brocade in which he slept at Sir James Cotter’s, of Ballinsperrig, was
then at Barryscourt, and so destroyed by the conflagration.
The castle was in possession of the Coppinger family for many years,
William Coppinger being the owner in 1861.
It now belongs to Lord Barrymore.
A member of the Wakeham family informs me that it was in possession
of her ancestors several centuries ago, and that the Lord Barrymore
of that day gave the owners, John and William Wakeham, the estates of
Springhill and Water-rock instead of it, which their descendants still
possess.
AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.
Gibson’s “History of Cork.”
Carew MSS.
Patent and Close Rolls, Chancery, Ireland.
State Papers.
“Local Names” and “Notes and Queries” in _Journal
of Cork Archæological Society_.
_BIRR CASTLE_
“Lords to whom great men submit,
Are the O’Carrolls of the plain of Birr.”
O’HEERIN.
This fortress was one of the numerous strongholds of the O’Carrolls
of Ely O’Carroll. The derivation of the name, formerly Biorra, is
doubtful. _Bir_ signifies “water,” _birra_ = “abounding in wells,”
or “fountains of water,” _bir_ = “a spit,” _bior_ = “the brink of a
river,” and the name may have originated from any of these words.
The town is situated on the right bank of the Little Brosna River at
its juncture with the Birr rivulet. It is in the barony of Ballybrit,
King’s County, sixty-two and a half miles west-south-west of Dublin.
The O’Carroll’s stronghold, called the “Black Castle,” stood some sixty
yards north-west of the present building on the high bank of the river.
The principal tower was raised on an artificial mound, and in 1627 Sir
Laurence Parsons added a watch tower, which stood on thirteen corbels,
projecting on the outside, and was higher than all the other buildings.
The dungeon of the stronghold was situated in the Black Castle, but
this older fortress has long since been demolished.
In 1620-21 Sir Laurence Parsons made a great many additions to the
castle. He erected a tower 46 feet long and 25 feet broad, at each
end of which an arch of hewn stone gave entrance to the fortress. The
present hall, which is reached by a flight of stone steps under a
vaulted vestibule, is the centre part of this tower, as it is also
that of the present mansion.
In the following two years Sir Laurence also built a porter’s lodge,
known as the “Garden House,” fitted up a drawing-room and made a garden
and orchard.
In 1624 he built a new line of offices, which formed one side of
the courtyard, and in which was a kitchen, &c. Another side of the
enclosure was occupied by the stables, which extended along the river,
south of the Black Castle.
[Illustration: BIRR CASTLE.]
On the north was a double wall filled up with earth, and having a
gateway in the centre.
Sir William Parsons threw all these buildings down in 1778.
The castle was enlarged and remodelled under the direction of Mr. J.
Johnstone, architect, who altered the entrance to the back of the
building, away from the town.
Sir Laurence Parsons had also added a “French Flanker” in 1627, but on
what site is not known.
The Annals of Clonmacmoise record that Byrre Castle was besieged in
1207 by “Moriertagh Mac Bryen an Sleyve,” who burnt the whole town.
Ely O’Carroll was granted to FitzWalter by Henry II., nevertheless King
John re-granted it to William de Braosa in 1200, and FitzWalter had to
buy it back to regain possession.
It shortly afterwards passed into the hands of Hugh de Hose or Hussey.
The English rebuilt and enlarged the stronghold in 1213.
In 1432 the Earl of Ormond went to war with O’Carroll of Ely, and
demolished his two chief castles, which most likely were Birr and Leap,
for in spite of Royal grants the stronghold remained in the possession
of the O’Carrolls.
A dispute arose about the chieftainship of the sept in 1532, the senior
branch of the family holding Birr Castle.
Ferganainm O’Carroll, the son of the late chief, enlisted the aid of
the Earl of Kildare, whose daughter he had married, and together they
laid siege to Birr. The Earl received a bullet in his side from the
garrison. It is said that a soldier, hearing him cry out in agony,
remonstrated with him, remarking he himself had been wounded three
times and was none the worse, to which the Earl replied he was sorry he
had not received the fourth bullet in his stead. The ball was extracted
the following spring, but it is said to have hastened his end.
In 1537 Lord Leonard Grey took Birr Castle, and is reported to have
received submission from O’Carroll, who was created Baron of Ely in
1552.
At the time of the plantation of Ely, Birr and its castle were granted
to Sir Laurence Parsons in 1620, and the same year his steward arrived
to make preparations. Shortly afterwards O’Carroll appealed in vain.
In 1641 Sir William Parsons was made Governor of Ely O’Carroll and the
Castle of Birr, which latter he garrisoned with his tenants.
He put the place at once in a state of defence. He raised a flanker
behind the stables, and erected scaffolds inside the castle for the
garrison to fight from.
After some skirmishing the fortress was closely besieged in 1642, and
of the nine hundred people in town and castle many died of starvation,
while others were reduced to eating dogs and cats.
At length the Earl of Ormond sent a detachment to its relief, but early
the next year General Preston approached the stronghold with artillery
and troops.
He reconnoitred the town from Drumbawn Hill, and after firing a few
shots encamped in the neighbouring woods. On the second day of the
siege he sent a messenger to the Governor to inquire if he held the
castle for the King or the Parliament, and asking to be allowed to
garrison it for his Majesty’s use.
Sir William replied that he had not heard of any difference from his
Majesty or from the Parliament, and that he held his commission as
Governor of Ely O’Carroll.
At this reply Preston entrenched, and next day began to bombard the
fortress in earnest. The following night a mine was commenced under the
direction of a mason who had been employed in the castle. The garrison,
hearing the noise, fired on the sappers, but the darkness prevented the
shot taking effect, and in the morning they were underground.
Preston continued firing, and destroyed much of the wall and one of the
flankers. He said he would break down the fortress about the Governor’s
ears. Some of the balls found in the masonry weighed 9 lbs. each.
Under cover of a parley the defenders of the mill were withdrawn, and
the garrison held out for two days after they had been undermined. A
conference was held and the besieged were granted honourable terms.
Lord Castlehaven conducted them to Athy. They numbered about eight
hundred men, women, and children.
Preston seems to have retained possession of Birr until 1645, when for
five years it was held by the Confederate Catholic forces.
It was taken from the Irish in 1650 by General Ireton, the enemy having
burnt it before retreating. The Marquis of Clanrickarde tried to retake
it in vain.
In 1688 Birr was so infested with robbers that Sir Laurence Parsons
took some of his neighbours and tenants inside the castle and closed
the gates. This act was magnified to the Government by his enemy,
Colonel Oxburgh, who obtained an order from the Lord Lieutenant to put
a garrison in the castle.
Oxburgh demanded admittance, and Sir Laurence refused until he should
hear from Lord Tyrconnel. A siege then began, and when they attempted
to undermine the fortress terms of capitulation were agreed upon.
Both terms of surrender (1643-1688) are preserved in the castle and
have been published in the Report of the Historical MSS. Commission.
Sir Laurence and some of his tenants were imprisoned in the fortress.
He was tried for high treason and several times reprieved. He was
liberated after the Boyne, and appointed High Sheriff for the King’s
County.
In 1690 the castle garrison, being English, was summoned, but after a
parley the enemy retired.
Later the same year it was attacked by Sarsfield, who fired all day
on the stronghold. The marks of the shot are still to be seen upon
the castle walls. The besieged, under Captain Curry, held out until
reinforcements arrived.
The English army, passing through Birr in 1691, left four hundred
wounded men in the castle for two months.
Sir Laurence Parsons died in 1698.
The second Earl of Rosse succeeded to the estates in 1841. His
experiments towards improving the reflecting telescope had been begun
in 1827 at Birr Castle. He employed local workmen, and the tools,
machinery, furnaces, ovens, &c., were all constructed on the spot, many
of which are still to be seen.
At length, after many failures, two specula were cast in 1842-43. They
each measured 6 feet in diameter, weighed 4 tons, and were of 54 feet
focus.
The tube in which one was mounted is 58 feet long and 7 feet in
diameter. It is slung on chains between two piers of masonry, and the
telescope is moved and supported by a complex system of cast-iron
platforms, triangles, and levers.
It is the largest telescope in the world, and cost about £20,000 to
construct. Observations were commenced in February, 1845. There are
several smaller telescopes at the castle as well.
The present Earl of Rosse is the third Earl, and, like his father, is
an eminent scientist.
AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.
T. Cooke, “History of Birr,” &c.
Cooke, “Picture of Parsonstown.”
Brewer, “Beauties of Ireland.”
Donovan, “Annals of the Four Masters.”
S. Lee, “Dictionary of National Biography.”
Parliamentary Gazetteer.
Report of Historical MSS. Commission.
_BLACK CASTLE, WICKLOW_
Wicklow is situated about twenty-five miles south-south-east of Dublin,
and the ruins of the Black Castle occupy an isolated rocky promontory
east of the town, and on the south side of the Leitrim river. The name
Wicklow is likely to have been of Norwegian origin, but the meaning
is uncertain. The Irish name Kilmantan signified S. Mantan’s Church.
The castle followed the natural shape of the dark rock on which it was
built, and from which, no doubt, the designation “Black” is taken. It
was divided from the mainland by a chasm, which was probably bridged in
former times. A few fragments of walls, with window openings, are all
that remain.
The fortress can never have been of large dimensions if it was confined
to the rock on which the ruins now stand.
In 1176, after Maurice FitzGerald had been recalled by Strongbow, he
received a grant of the Castle of Wicklow, among other possessions, in
lieu of his lands in Wexford, which King Henry wished to retain. From
this it would appear to have been the site of an older fortification.
Maurice FitzGerald began to erect a Norman stronghold on the
promontory, but he died before it was completed.
Soon after his death William FitzAdelm managed by falsehood to get
possession of the Black Castle from his son Gerald, first Baron of
Offaly, and surrendered him instead the unprotected Castle of Ferns.
The Earl of Ormond being arraigned for treason in 1422, one of the
charges against him was that he had retained William Edward, Constable
of Arklow, in his service after he had assisted the O’Byrnes in
seizing the King’s Castle of Wicklow. They killed John Liverpoole, the
constable, and sent his head to the O’Byrne. They also imprisoned a
priest, whom they found in the fortress, to hold for ransom.
[Illustration: BLACK CASTLE, WICKLOW.]
The O’Byrnes seem to have been in possession of the castle in the
early part of the sixteenth century, but in 1534 it had again passed
to the Crown, and Thomas Stevyns was appointed constable. In 1567 Sir
Thomas Fytzwylliams began his suit for the fortress, which, in 1575, he
offered to re-edify, though his doing so does not seem altogether to
have worked in his favour.
It seems generally believed that the present ruins represent the
stronghold he built, but in 1580 it was reported that Wicklow Castle
was razed by the enemy.
Nineteen years later the terrible disaster took place in June, 1599,
in which the English troops were utterly routed between Rathdrum and
Glenmalure by the combined Irish septs of the district. It was this
that caused Essex such a sharp reprimand from Oueen Elizabeth.
Sir Henry Harrington was in command, and his troops fell back upon
Wicklow Castle in the wildest disorder, chased by the Irish within half
a mile of the town.
Captain Adam Loftus seems to have been the only one who endeavoured to
redeem the day. He was wounded in the leg and conveyed to the castle. A
surgeon was sent for, though the wound was not considered dangerous at
first; but he shortly afterwards succumbed to the effects.
In 1610 Sir William Usher, Knight, was made constable of the fortress,
and in 1641 Luke O’Toole and a band of insurgents laid siege to the
town and castle, but retreated upon the approach of Sir Charles Coote
with some English troops.
AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.
Gilbert, “History of Viceroys of Ireland.”
Marquis of Kildare, “Earls of Kildare.”
O’Toole, “History of the Clan O’Toole.”
Brewer, “Beauties of Ireland.”
Joyce, “Irish Names of Places.”
Parliamentary Gazetteer.
State Papers.
Book of Howth, Carew MSS.
_BLARNEY CASTLE_
“There is a stone there whoever kisses,
Oh, he never misses to grow eloquent,
’Tis he may clamber to a lady’s chamber
Or become a member of Parliament.
A clever spouter, he’ll sure turn out, or
An ‘out an’ outer’ to be let alone,
Don’t hope to hinder him or bewilder him,
Sure he’s a pilgrim to the Blarney Stone!”
FATHER PROUT.
Appropriately built on an isolated limestone rock, the castle of the
Blarney (Blarna meaning “little field”) was the chief stronghold of the
chiefs of the sept Carty, from Cartheigh, “an inhabitant of the rock.”
It is situated some three and a half miles north-west of Cork, near the
junction of the Comane (_i.e._ crooked stream) and the Awmartin River.
The present ruins show three distinct periods of construction, of which
the oldest is a slender tower, or peel, situated at the north-west
corner of the larger block of masonry that was built to it, the whole
being the great keep of the fortress.
A stone bearing the inscription “Cormac M’Carthy, Fortis
Me Fieri Facit, A.D. 1446,” forms the sill of one of the
machicolations on the south side of the tower, and being damaged during
the siege in Cromwell’s time, has been supported with iron.
The keep is gnomon in shape, the later rectangular tower being 60 feet
by 36 feet, while the peel, which is half built into the north-west
corner, forms a projection of 18 feet by 12 feet. The tower is about
120 feet high. The original entrance to the peel, which was 10 feet
above the ground, is now built up, and access is gained by the large
newel stair in the later building. What are called “the back stairs,”
were the original flight belonging to the first tower. Here is situated
the “Earl’s bedroom,” with a more modern bay window, and remnants of
the tapestry which once covered the walls may still be seen. In the
very top storey is situated a kitchen with two great fireplaces, and
one of the now floorless rooms in this tower was probably the chapel.
In the later portion of the keep is the store-room and guard chamber
near the entrance, which is a low-pointed doorway once defended from
above. The apartment in the third floor was most likely used as a
reception room, above which the great banqueting hall is situated, with
an elaborately-worked chimney, and a fireplace 12 feet wide. The tower
on the south and east is finished by machicolated parapets, resting
on fourteen corbels, and having a corresponding number of opens or
crenelles above.
The keep represents the fifteenth-century masonry, except where it is
surmounted by the ogee parapet of brick work, which was seemingly added
at the time the now ruined mansion to the east of the tower was built.
This dwelling, erected by the Jeffreys family, was unroofed and its
timber sold in 1821.
What are locally called “the dungeons” are merely divisions in the well
cavern, which was at one time connected with the castle by a covered
passage now filled up.
There seems to be great uncertainty as to the identity of the famous
kissing stone, said to give a persuasive tongue to whoever touches it
with his lips. The power of conferring this accomplishment appears to
have been unknown in the early part of the nineteenth century.
The inscribed stone already mentioned is generally supposed to be the
true “Blarney stone,” chiefly, it seems because it has been carefully
propped, and most likely had the mystic reputation conferred upon it
when a slightly water-worn hollow stone situated on the parapet of the
east side of the turret disappeared more than a quarter of a century
ago.
Again a stone bearing the date 1703, on the highest part of the
north-east angle, and another engraved with a shamrock in relief have
each been asserted to be the original stone.
[Illustration: BLARNEY CASTLE.]
The origin of “Blarney,” meaning flattery, is said to have been from an
exclamation of Queen Elizabeth upon receiving a very plausible letter
from M’Carthy, to the effect that it was all “Blarney” and he did not
intend to carry out his promises.
The castle at one time covered eight acres. In a quarry near a large
number of human bones have been found.
Cormac MacCarty, surnamed Laider, or the Strong, came into the
lordship of Muskerry three years after he had built Blarney Castle,
and such was his power that English settlers paid him a yearly tribute
of £40 to protect them against the attacks of the Irish. He was fourth
lord, and direct descendant of the former Kings of Desmond and Cork. He
died in 1494.
Teige MacCormac Carty signed an indenture of allegiance to the English
laws in 1542, and this was faithfully adhered to by his descendants,
who, unlike the other great Irish septs, never went eagerly into
rebellion. At this time the clan could raise three thousand fighting
men. His son Dermod was knighted in 1558.
The Manor of Blarney, Twhoneblarney, the entire country of Muskerry,
with all its lordships and possessions, were granted to M‘Dermod to
hold by military service in 1589.
His cousin Charles, however, was page to Sir Walter Raleigh, and
through his interest procured from the Privy Council a sequestration of
the rents.
In 1596 Cormack M‘Dermot M‘Carthy asked for a new grant of the Manor of
Blarney with a release of all conditions.
When war broke out, although Lord Muskerry remained with the English
forces, he was seized as a traitor (1600) because his brother had
joined the rebels, and a relative informed the Council that he himself
was plotting against them.
Tyrone at this time encamped with all his forces near Blarney, which is
described as one of the strongest castles in the province of Munster,
“for it is four piles joined in one, seated upon a main rock, so as it
is free from mining, the wall 18 feet thick, and flanked at each corner
to the best advantage.”
Sir Charles Wilmot and Captain Roger Harvey endeavoured to surprise the
garrison after the arrest of Lord Muskerry, but the warders, suspecting
their motive, made them partake of the food they asked for, outside the
castle walls.
When Lord Muskerry was put upon his trial he indignantly denied the
charges made against him. The President replied that he had better
either confess his guilt and ask pardon, or deliver up Blarney Castle
until the accusations were proved false. This Lord Muskerry hesitated
to do, and so was committed to prison. At length he consented to give
up Blarney to Captain Taafe, on condition that it would be restored to
him unaltered.
Shortly after this he escaped, in 1602, but seeing the struggle against
the Crown was hopeless, he asked leave to make submission to Sir George
Carew, which was granted.
In 1628 he was created Baron of Blarney and Viscount Cartie of
Muskerie, and as such went to Parliament.
Charles I. appointed him President of Munster, but in 1646 Lord
Broghill, afterwards Earl of Orrery, took the castle of Blarney and
made it his headquarters. Lord Muskerry was the last Royalist in
Ireland to lay down arms, and he was tried for his life by Ludlow and
others. He was permitted to pass to Spain, while his wife was allowed
to receive his income from the estate, except £1,000 a year granted to
Lord Broghill for his services (1656).
Two years later Lord Muskerry was recalled, after the Restoration, and
created Viscount Muskerry and Earl of Clancarty. His property was given
back to him, except the portion allowed to Lord Broghill, who was now a
supporter of the King.
When James landed at Kinsale, Blarney Castle was used as one of the
prisons for the Protestants of Cork, the fourth Earl of Clancarty being
one of the King’s chief supporters.
Upon the succession of King William the Clancarty estate, worth about
£150,000, was confiscated and sold, a pension of £300 being allowed to
the Earl, who died at Hamburg, 1734.